Contents. On the Road 4. New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania Highlights 5. Destination New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania 16. Getting Started 18

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1 Contents On the Road 4 York, Jersey & Pennsylvania Highlights 5 Destination York, Jersey & Pennsylvania 16 Getting Started 18 Events Calendar 23 Itineraries 25 History 32 The Culture 44 Food & Drink 54 Environment 60 Outdoor Activities 66 York City 76 History 77 Orientation 77 information 78 Dangers & Annoyances 80 Sights & Activities 80 York for Children 102 Tours 102 Festivals & Events 103 Sleeping 103 Eating 105 Drinking 108 Entertainment 109 Shopping 110 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 13 Getting There & Away 113 Getting Around 113 York State 115 History 116 Land & Climate 116 National & s 116 LONG ISLAND 117 Gold Coast 117 The Hamptons 123 Shelter Island 127 Fire Island National Seashore 128 HUDSON VALLEY 130 Lower Hudson Valley 130 Cold Spring 135 Mid- & Upper Hudson Valley 136 Rhinebeck & Around 138 Millbrook & Around 140 Hudson 141 CATSKILLS REGION 143 Eastern Catskills 143 Kingston 146 Saugerties 148 Northern Catskills 148 Woodstock 149 Phoenicia 151 Tannersville & Around 151 Southern & Western Catskills 153 CAPITAL DISTRICT & MOHAWK VALLEY 154 Albany 154 Saratoga Springs 159 Cooperstown 164 THE ADIRONDACKS 166 Information 166 George & Around 167 Bolton Landing 169 Placid & Around 170 Saranac 174 CENTRAL ADIRONDACKS 176 Blue Mountain & Around 176 Old Forge & Around 177 THOUSAND ISLANDS & ST LAWRENCE SEAWAY 178 Thousand Islands 178 Alexandria Bay & Around 178 Clayton 182 Cape Vincent 183

2 14 CONTENTS Sackets Harbor 185 St Lawrence Seaway 185 FINGER LAKES REGION 186 Southern Tier 186 Ithaca 186 Trumansburg 190 Watkins Glen 190 Hammondsport 191 Northern Tier 193 Syracuse 194 Skaneateles 196 Seneca Falls 196 Geneva 197 Penn Yan 197 Rochester 197 WESTERN NEW YORK 199 Buffalo 199 NIAGARA FALLS & AROUND 204 Niagara Falls 204 Niagara Falls The Canadian Side 206 Fort Niagara 206 Chautauqua 206 Jersey 209 History 210 Land & Climate 210 National & s 212 Getting There & Around 212 JERSEY SHORE 213 Sandy Hook 213 Highlands & Atlantic Highlands 215 Red Bank 216 Long Branch 217 Asbury Park 218 Ocean Grove 221 Belmar & Around 222 Spring 224 Manasquan 224 Point Pleasant 225 Seaside Heights & Around 226 Tom s River & Around 229 Island Beach 230 Long Beach Island 230 NORTHERN NEW JERSEY 235 Hoboken 236 Jersey City 239 ark 240 Meadowlands 243 Montclair & Around 243 Morristown & Around 245 Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area 247 Skylands & the Appalachian Trail 248 CENTRAL NEW JERSEY 249 Brunswick 250 Princeton 252 Trenton 255 Lambertville & Around 258 SOUTHERN NEW JERSEY 259 Camden 259 Pine Barrens 261 Atlantic City 262 Around Atlantic City 270 Ocean City 270 Wildwoods 271 Cape May 274 Philadelphia 281 History 282 Orientation 282 Information 282 Dangers & Annoyances 285 Sights 285 Activities 303 Tours 303 Festivals & Events 304 Sleeping 305 Eating & Drinking 307 Entertainment 309 Shopping 311 Getting There & Away 311 Getting Around 312 AROUND PHILADELPHIA 313 Valley Forge 313 Bucks County 314 Brandywine Valley 314 Pennsylvania 316 History 317 Land & Climate 317 National & s 319 Getting There & Around 319 PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH COUNTRY 319 Lancaster 319 Intercourse & Around 326 Bird-in-Hand & Around 329 Strasburg & Around 330 Lititz 333 Ephrata 333 Reading 333 Around Reading 335 Lebanon & Around 337 SOUTH CENTRAL PENNSYLVANIA 337 Gettysburg 337 Harrisburg 345 Three Mile Island 348 Hershey 349 York 353 PITTSBURGH 354 SOUTHWESTERN PENNSYLVANIA 371 Laurel Highlands & Around 371 Johnstown 378 Around Johnstown 380 NORTHERN PENNSYLVANIA 381 Erie & Around 381 Pymatuning 386 Erie National Wildlife Refuge 387 Titusville 387 Oil City & Around 388 Hermitage & Sharon 390 Allegheny National Forest & Around 391 Route 6: Allegheny National Forest to Scranton 394 Scranton 396 Williamsport 397 The Poconos 397 Jim Thorpe 397 Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area 398 Directory 401 Accommodations 401 Activities 403 Business Hours 405 Children 405 Climate Charts 406 Dangers & Annoyances 406 Discounts 407 Food 407 Gay & Lesbian Travelers 407 Holidays 408 Insurance 408 International Visitors 408 Internet Access 409 Legal Matters 409 Maps 410 Money 410 Photography 410 Post 410

3 CONTENTS 15 Practicalities 410 Shopping 411 Telephone 411 Tourist Information 411 Travelers with Disabilities 411 Volunteering 412 Women Travelers 412 Work 412 Transportation 414 GETTING THERE & AWAY 414 Air 414 Land 416 Sea 416 GETTING AROUND 416 Air 417 Bicycle 417 Boat 418 Bus 418 Car & Motorcycle 419 Hitchhiking 421 Local Transportation 421 Train 421 Health 423 BEFORE YOU GO 423 Insurance 423 Recommended Vaccinations 423 Medical Checklist 423 Internet Resources 424 IN NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY & PENNSYLVANIA 424 Availability & Cost of Health Care 424 Infectious Diseases 424 Environmental Hazards 425 The Authors 427 Behind the Scenes 429 Index 434 Map Legend 444 Regional Map Contents York State p118 Pennsylvania p318 Philadelphia p283 Jersey p211 York City p79

4 Georgian Bay Huron CANADA ELEVATION 3000ft 2000ft 1000ft 0 Belleville Kingston ONTARIO Toronto Ontario Cleveland Akron London Youngstown Pittsburgh (p354) Warhol s hometown, amazing art museums and galleries, delightful riverfront OHIO Wheeling Ohio River Ohio [ 40 Ohiopyle (p374) Whitewater rafting, epic Laurel Highlands Trail, cross-country skiing, mountain biking VU 90 [ 6 River b 22 VU 79 Morgantown Presque Isle Erie VU 79 VU 79 Edinboro Hamilton Erie Jamestown ] 62 Titusville Oil Creek Oil City VU 76 ] 322 # C [ 6 Allegheny National Forest Ridgway Cumberland Buffalo Olean 219 ]220 Pittsburgh Altoona ] 22 Johnstown ^h 119 Mill Run VU 70 # Fallingwater & Kentuck Knob Ohiopyle Farmington VU 70 WEST VIRGINIA York State Ohio River Laurel Highlands Niagara Falls Thruway (Toll) `104 Niagara Falls Allegheny ] 422 ] 119 ] b 28 VU 76 b 59 VU 80 Allegheny Mountains ^h 219 VIRGINIA Seaway Trail Erie Canal York State Thruway (Toll) `255 Gettysburg (p337) The Civil War s most famous and sobering battlefield VU 76 [ 20 Canandaigua Seneca WX 390 Cayuga Penn Yan Taughannock Finger s Falls Robert H # C Treman Ithaca Hammondsport Watkins b 17 Glen Buttermilk Falls `417 Corning Elmira [ 6 PENNSYLVANIA State College ] 522 Appalachian Mountains Penns lyvania Appalachian Trail Rochester WX 490 ^h 322 ^h 322 VU 90 ] 522 ] 22 ark Seneca Falls Auburn Harrisburg Hershey Lititz Manheim Lancaster York Gettysburg Hanover Turnpike (Toll) Wellsboro `287 [ 15 b 14 MARYLAND Williamsport WX 180 VU 80 [ 15 River Susquehanna `104 Susquehanna River Baltimore ] 220 Annapolis #_ Washington DC

5 Pocono Mountains St LawrenceRiver Appalachian Trail Cornwall Massena ^h 222 `309 3" Lambertville VU 95 Sandy Hook Highlands Hope Princeton Reading Red Bank b 18 Trenton Asbury Park Ephrata Valley Langhorne Belmar # Bird-in-Hand^h Forge YZ WX Point Intercourse Pleasant Philadelphia Strasburg Camden Seaside Heights Brandywine Valley # Pine Island Beach ] 1 Barrens Wharton Wilmington State Forest Barnegat Peninsula 3" b 55 Long Beach b 49 Island Pennsylvania Turnpike DELAWARE Seaway Trail Delaware River (Toll) NEW JERSEY Dover Delaware Philadelphia (p281) Bay The Liberty Bell, Wildwood Independence Hall, Reading Cape May Terminal Market and Mummers Delaware River VU 78 VU 78 ] 202 ] 206 Philadelphia AtlanticCityExpwy Adirondack Mountains Thr Catskill Mountains GardenStatePkwy uway(toll) (Toll) Atlantic City QUEBEC Malone Thousand Islands (p178) Champlain Magnificent scenery and wildlife, Ogdensburg Plattsburgh tragic Boldt Castle, b 37 Wellesley Island b 30 Burlington [ Thousand 11 Saranac Wilmington Islands Alexandria Park " U Bay Montpelier Clayton Placid " U Burnham Point Westport b 3 Sackets VERMONT Adirondack Harbor Watertown Blue Park Placid (p170) Mountain Gold medal fantasies at b 12 Old Olympic Center, bobsledding, Forge b 28 ascending High Peaks b 9N Lebanon George b 8 b 12 Glen Falls Oneida Rome b 30 Concord NEW `481 Saratoga Gansevoort Utica Springs HAMPSHIRE York Saratoga Spa Syracuse " U [ State 4 Manchester Easton VU 87 Albany Schenectady International Catskills (p143) " 1 Airport Prime hiking and skiing, b 12 Cooperstown Albany fun river tubing, flyfishing, NEW YORK b 28 Woodstock b 13 VU 90 MASSACHUSETTS Boston VU 88 b 23 b 9 Worcester Hudson b 28 Arkville Mt `23A Binghamton Catskill Forest Tremper Springfield Saugerties b 17 Preserve Woodstock Skylands (p248) Kingston Catskill b 28 Hiking the Appalachian Trail, Rhinebeck canoeing the Delaware River, Providence Park Hyde camping alongside quiet lakes Park Millbrook Hartford Bethel Paltz Poughkeepsieepsie CONNECTICUT ISLAND RHODE b port [ 17 6 Hudson Valley (p130) Beacon Gilded Age estates, quaint burgh ] 209 small towns, organic farms, Mountainville Scranton London autumn hikes Wilkes- VU 84 $ Watch Bear Mountain Barre Delaware Water Haven Hill Gap National WX 380 Recreation Area Hudson North Fork Kittatinny VU 87 Valley Long Island Valley Shelter Tarrytown Sound Island White Montauk Stroudsburg WX Plains b West b 9 VU80 Southampton Orange Long Westhampton YZ b York Island Beach ark Easton b 27 Allentown Hudson River Trail Appalachian VU 87 YZ 95 Asbury Park (p218) The Boss s old stomping grounds still rock, great beach, gourmet eats Island Beach (p230) White sand beaches, unspoiled dunes, seabirds aplenty York City (p76) The Big Apple, Gotham, the City that Never Sleeps, the Melting Pot... Statue of Liberty & Ellis Island (p84) Famous one-two punch of iconic America Long Island (p117) So many beaches: Fire Island National Seashore, the Hamptons, Montauk LEGEND Tollway Freeway Primary Road Secondary Road Tertiary Road Unsealed Road ATLANTIC OCEAN 0 50km 0 25miles Appalachian Trail

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Upstate NY Metropolitan Geography 2009* Code Area Name Type 104 Albany-Schenectady-Amesterdam, NY Combined Albany-Schenectady-Troy, NY MSA

Upstate NY Metropolitan Geography 2009* Code Area Name Type 104 Albany-Schenectady-Amesterdam, NY Combined 10580 Albany-Schenectady-Troy, NY MSA 11220 Amsterdam, NY Micro 13780 Binghamton, NY MSA 160 Buffalo-Niagara-Cattaraugus,