Atlanta s Dining Scene
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- Abigayle Warren
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1 Atlanta s Dining Scene F O O D CULT URE DI N I NG WI NE ENTERTA I NING HOM E IT UP! RECIPES TO RAMP UP FLAVOR WARM UP WITH COZY COCKTAILS WINTER $4.95 MOROCCAN SHRIMP WITH GARLIC TOMATO HARISSA recipe by Little Alley Steak (page 21) Display until March 1
2 AT LAST AFTER A DECADE OF STRUGGLES, SALAMANDER RESORT & SPA OPENS IN MIDDLEBURG, VA. WRITTEN BY ALLISON WEISS ENTREKIN Legend holds that salamanders possess the power to withstand fire. When Salamander Resort and Spa opened this fall in Middleburg, Va., it too seemed able to emerge from (metaphorical) flames. For 11 long years, its owner, Dr. Sheila Johnson, fought to open the resort. She initially proposed a 40- room inn for her 340-acre tract of rolling farmland, but soon came to realize she d never make a profit with a lodge that small. So the would-be hotelier requested approval for more rooms and thus her fight with locals began. Middleburg, pop. 724, is located in the heart of Virginia s bucolic Hunt Country ; it was one of John and Jackie Kennedy s most beloved vacation spots. Many worried that Johnson s proposed hotel would dilute the town s character, while others argued it would benefit local restaurants and boutiques with increased tourism. Countless heated city council meetings ensued. In the middle of it all, Johnson was faced with another hurdle: the recession. Construction slowed, projected opening dates shifted ever-backward, and some wondered if Salamander Resort would open its doors at all. 52 flavorsmagazine.com
3 But Johnson, much like the creature for whom her hotel is named, seems built to resist heat. A founding partner of Black Entertainment Television, she is one of only a handful of female African-American billionaires. She s the only black woman to have ownership in three professional sports teams (Washington s Mystics, Wizards and Capitals), and she s an executive producer of The Butler a film that many said would never find commercial success but is now generating serious Oscar buzz. Considering the opposition Salamander faced, other hoteliers might have cut their losses and bailed. But Johnson stood firm in the furnace. She even extended an olive branch to locals, building an $11 million state-of-the-art wastewater and water treatment plant for the town a move that mollified many. In August 2013, when Johnson at last cut the hotel s welcome ribbon, she unveiled the only luxury destination resort in the country to open all year. Situated at the end of a winding, half-mile driveway, Salamander looks like a historic Virginia manor flanked on either side by large stucco additions. Step into the lobby, and you ll notice the wide-planked oak floors, a warm library and a living room with two stone fireplaces. Johnson wanted the hotel to feel like a home her home which is why statues of her children (now grown) flank the fireplace and her daughter s many riding trophies decorate the restaurant, Harrimans. Each of the 168 guestrooms (some with fireplaces, all with balconies) is decorated with Virginiainspired photography taken by Johnson herself. The rooms face the croquet lawn and the stable beyond. Speaking of the stable, this is where the resort s booming equestrian program takes place, including a remarkable horseback yoga class. Guests begin the class with (opposite) Salmander Resort is designed to look like a historic Virginia mansion with stucco additions on either side.; (top left) The hotel is decorated with equestrian-themed artwork; (above) upon entering the resort, guests encounter the grand living room; (top right) Salamander Spa's courtyard has a heated infinity-edge pool; (right) the Sundlun Library has leather furniture and hundreds of books. flavorsmagazine.com WINTER
4 30 minutes of mat yoga inside the 150-year-old barn, then move to the riding arena, where they practice stretches and poses on top of a horse. Sounds dangerous, yes, but two spotters are present, and the horse s body actually serves as a warm, calming and helpful prop. You ve never experienced stretching your hips with the pigeon pose until you ve tried it on a horse. Yoga is best followed by a trip to the resort s large spa, which offers a wide range of wellness and beauty therapies (try the Riders Relief massage), plus a courtyard with an infinity pool and fire pit. After your treatments, sip a glass of Virginiaproduced Viognier at Gold Cup Wine Bar, or take one of the daily cooking classes in the state-of-theart Cooking Studio. (top left) horseback yoga begins with 30 minutes of mat yoga inside the stable; (top right) the second half of horseback yoga lets guests do poses on a horse; (middle) Salamander Spa's wet area includes a whirlpool, Tepidarium chairs and an aromatic steam room; (bottom) many of the rooms at the spa feature outdoor treatment terraces. 54 flavorsmagazine.com
5 (top left) the firepit outside Harrimans restaurant is a popular gathering place; (middle left) the Cooking Studio looks into a working kitchen and offers screens with close-up views; (bottom left) the resort sources some of its herbs, spices and produce from its on-site garden; (below) Dr. Sheila Johnson with her family dog. Food is a focus here: Chef Todd Gray of the celebrated Equinox Restaurant in Washington, D.C., is the resort s culinary director. Under his guidance, Harrimans offers Piedmont-inspired cuisine like caramelized Vidalia onion soup and sweet barbecued shrimp served atop Byrd Mill grits. He sources many of the herbs, spices and produce from the resort s on-site garden. When Johnson walks the hotel s grounds as she does most days she says it s the fulfillment of the vision she had when she first purchased the land. It was an 11-year process, she laughs. But here we are. And I m so glad. Salamander Resort & Spa 540/ salamanderhotels.com flavorsmagazine.com WINTER
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