Report on a Birding Trip to the Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico, December 2017.

Transcription

1 Report on a Birding Trip to the Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico, December Aidan G. Kelly agkelly@tcd.ie Yucatán Poorwill: Xocen, Yucatán. All photographs Aidan G. Kelly unless stated otherwise. Participants: Howard Armstrong Thaïs Armstrong Aidan G. Kelly

2 Introduction: Mexico was a country I had yet to visit, and I thought that the defined area of the Yucatán peninsula would be a good place to do a first birding trip. The Yucatán is generally a very safe area of Mexico to do an independent visit. The roads are very good, traffic is light and people are friendly. Because of the huge tourist industry based around Cancun and Playa del Carmen, flights, hotels, car hire, AirB&Bs etc. are all readily available. Value is good especially compared to Europe and the USA. Overall it was a very successful trip, getting almost all the potential target birds. We recorded a total of 227 species and managed to see all the gettable Yucatán endemics. Notable misses for me were Caribbean Dove (none seemed to be calling at this time of year), Rufous-necked Wood Rail (none recorded at Rio Lagartos) and Rufous-breasted Spinetail. All of these species are possible to see outside the Yucatán peninsula however. A bonus was seeing many North American wintering warblers and other passerines at this time year. We had virtually no rain at all for two weeks and temperatures varied between 26 and 30C maximum daily, so a very pleasant time to get away from the cold northern winter. My good friends Howard and Thaïs Armstrong from Washington State decided to join me on the trip, and we corresponded for a while to finalise a rough itinerary. Because it was over Christmas and to save some time on the ground, we decided to book most of the accommodation in advance. Howard and Thaïs did most of this through AirB&B or through Booking.com. Logistics, car hire, useful references etc. We pre-booked a hire car on Cozumel Island with Isis Rent a car. We went for the chevy with a/c option at US$45/day. This worked fine except than we had our only car mishap of the trip when we went through some deep rutted pools near the Sewage Works as we tried to find Ruddy Crake, and managed to get a puncture. It was no ordinary puncture. The sidewall was torn in the tire. We changed it and brought back the busted one to Isis. Of course, they had no spare, and they told us that we d have to pay for a new one, costing about $US80. A good deal for the company getting a new tire for their car! We did get a Ruddy Crake however so it was worth it!!!

3 In Playa del Carmen we pre-booked a car for the rest of the trip through Mex rent-a-car, also trading as Fox rent-a-car. We paid an extra $30 so that we could drop it back to Cancun airport and not have to drop it back to Playa del Carmen at the end of the trip. During the trip we drove about 2200km with this car. This was a Kia Rio saloon car with large boot. It had only 5000km on the clock so was virtually new. The basic price was quoted as US$400 for 12 days on the website booking, but in the end we paid a bit more for the option of full CDW and extra driver taken out when we signed contracts in the office. As expected with a new car, we had no problems with it at all. Phone Apps to consider: One of the most useful things we had for navigating on the trip was the free app maps.me where we had downloaded the map of the Yucatán peninsula before we left home. This app gives amazing detail and means you don t need to hire a sat.nav. with the car hire at extra expense. You can also put in GPS co-ordinates into the app and it tells you the route to the exact spot from your current location. Another fantastic app for much of Central and North America is Cornell s Merlin BIRD ID App. We downloaded all the Mexico species available. We used this free app daily in the field both for confirming the identity of certain species by referring to the excellent photos or the calls and songs provided on the app. Indeed I only downloaded a few of the Cozumel Island specials from Xeno-canto.org, and just used the app for everything else. The main field guide is Howell and Webb s A Guide to the Birds of Mexico and Northern Central America. It is very bulky and heavy however and we actually used the Merlin BIRD ID App more in the field. Howell s Where to watch Birds in Mexico was also useful as a site guide, but does not cover Calakmul. We referred to many Trip Reports found on the web, mostly from The ones by Ross Gallardy, Hakan Thorstensson (x2), David Showler. David Flumm, Raoul Beunen were the most useful. Trip reports by Birdquest and Rockjumper were also referred to. Most of these were also on Cloudbirders. A few other trip reports were also found on Birdforum.net

4 Map of route covered. We began in Cancun and went in a clockwise direction, ending back in Cancun:

5 Itinerary summary: After some pre-trip discussions and a few minor site additions during the trip, our final itinerary turned out like this: 16 Dec I arrived Cancun airport hrs. Took the ADO bus to Playa del Carmen and then a taxi to the AirB&B where I met up with Howard and Thaïs who had arrived in Mexico the previous day from the USA. 17 Dec Took ferry to Cozumel Island. Picked up hire car. Checked into AirB&B. Birding Cozumel rest of day. 18 Dec Birding Cozumel all day. 19 Dec Birding Cozumel all day. 20 Dec Ferry back to Playa del Carmen. Picked up hire car. Drove to Felipe Carillo Puerto. Check in Hotel El Faisan y el venado. Evening birding at Laguna Ocom and entrance road. 21 Dec All day birding Vigia Chico Road near Felipe Carillo Puerto. Stay at Hotel El Faisan y el venado. 22 Dec Morning birding at Vigia Chico Road. Left Felipe Carillo Puerto for Xpujil. Diverted to Tres Garantias en route where birded until after dark. On to Xpujil and found our pre-booked Cabanas in town. 23 Dec All day birding Calakmul. Overnight at Xpujil. 24 Dec All day birding Calakmul. Overnight at Xpujil. 25 Dec Birding in Hormiguero ruins near Xpujil in early morning. Took inland route from Xpujil north to Uxmal. Check in Uxmal Mayan Resort. Evening visit to Uxmal ruins where birded to dusk. 26 Dec Birded grounds of hotel for a short while pre and post breakfast. Drove towards Merida and on to Rio Lagartos. Check in Macumba Hotel on seafront. Birded Rio Lagartos area until after dark. 27 Dec Birding Rio Lagartos area. 28 Dec Morning birding Rio Lagartos. Travel to Valladolid. Check in hotel. Birding Xocen until after dark. Return to Valladolid. 29 Dec Morning in Xocen area. After lunch in Valladolid went to Ek Balam ruins for afternoon, before returning to Xocen for nightbirding, arriving back just before dusk. Return to same hotel in Valladolid.. 30 Dec Decided to divert to Coba area on way back to Cancun from Valladolid, mainly to try (successfully) for last realistic target, Yellow-winged Tanager. Lunch at Coba before traveling back to Cancun. Dropped Howard and Thaïs at a nice AirB&B they had pre-booked near the airport. They were not flying home until next morning. I flew out on time at 20.35hrs.

6 Daily Account: Saturday 16 Dec. Left Dublin for London Gatwick on Aer Lingus flight at 09.00hrs. Transfer from South to North Terminal for Virgin Atlantic flight to Cancun. A long 10.5hr flight. Arrived about 15min late at 18.20hrs local time. Had to then endure horrendous queue through passport control, eventually getting through at 19.50hrs. Picked up bag. Strangely there was no Bureau de Change at Terminal 4, so I couldn t change any cash to Mexican Pesos. Found an ADO bus ticketing desk and enquired about a ticket to Playa del Carmen. Bought a single ticket on credit card (190 Mexican pesos). The next bus was leaving in less than 5 minutes at 20.00hrs, so I had a mad dash out of the terminal building to find the right bus. Made it just in time. After about an hour arrived at Playa del Carmen terminus. Tried to take cash out of an ATM only to have it refused and then immediately got an SMS from my bank asking me to contact them to verify an attempted and unexpected withdrawal request. Things weren t going well! Flagged down a taxi and got him to take me to the AirB&B address that the others were staying at. Gave him US$5, having no pesos to hand. After a long day s travelling it was good to meet Howard and Thaïs and catch up with them again. They told me they d had a day of torrential rain for most of the day. Not what I was expecting at this time of year. Sunday 17 Dec. Up before 7am. Tried to find somewhere nearby to get some breakfast but after walking a few blocks we couldn t find anywhere that was open. We decided to quickly return to the AirB&B, pack up and check out, and take a taxi the short trip to the Cozumel Island ferry terminal where we found a Starbucks and got some coffee and sandwiches for breakfast. Brown Pelicans, Cabot s Terns and Laughing Gulls were all numerous around the port. Saw our first Magnificent Frigatebirds of the trip on the ferry crossing. Arriving at Cozumel, we walked a few blocks back from the port and found the Isis rental car office. Picked up our Chevrolet car (US$45/day) and drove the few blocks back to our AirB&B apartment, which was very spacious and comfortable. Dumped the bags and finally we were able to get out for some real birding. Firstly we headed for the overgown Bello Caribe grid area, the dirt road which leads eventually to the Sewage works plant. We saw some commoner birds but it was already quite hot and not the best time of the day for birding.

7 We stopped about 1km before the sewage works and had Palm Warblers hopping along the ground, also a brief small Woodpecker species (presumably Yucatán) and the first of many Tropical Kingbirds and Tropical Mockingbirds we were to see on the trip. Then we saw our first endemic as a small Hummingbird flew in and perched for a few seconds. A male Cozumel Emerald. A good start. Our first of many Black Catbirds on Cozumel followed. We entered the sewage work (no one on site seemed to mind our presence) and soon heard some Ruddy Crakes calling. We played the tape from the Merlin App and quite a few birds called back from the long dense vegetation. Unfortunately there were very few suitable open areas where a bird might appear. This might be a challenge. We flushed a Wilson s Snipe and a Spotted Sandpiper, and then had stunning looks at a superb Yellow-throated Warbler hopping around the steps of a building in the Sewage works. Also present were Yellow-faced Grassquits, White-collared Seedeaters, Common Yellowthroats, American Redstarts, Black-and-white Warbler and a Northern Waterthrush. Also nice to see was the Cozumel Island Mangrove/Yellow warbler known as Golden Warbler, with its distinct orange crown and heavy underparts streaking compared to Yellow Warblers. We also saw a few normal migrant American Yellow Warblers too. The most surprising sighting was a Bobolink, which was not expected on Cozumel. As we left the sewage works, we spotted the Cozumel race of Bananaquit, with its pale throat and then our first Orioles of the trip that proved to be a pair of Hooded Orioles. A view of the endemic form of Coati crossing the road was also nice. American Redstart, Cozumel Black Catbird, Cozumel

8 Iguana sp. Sewage Works, Cozumel. Magnolia Warbler, Cozumel. Since it was now fairly hot, and bird activity was quiet, we decided to head back to San Miguel for a lunch of chicken tacos. We then headed south from San Miguel and drove down the narrow road to the overgrown abandoned housing complex grid near Hotel Presidente. Look for the horse-riding facilities on the left as you go south. Here we eventually had good views of Yucatán Woodpeckers, but generally it was slow birding. We decided to return early tomorrow morning instead when we hoped it would be livelier birdwise. Cutting our losses we decided to head back to San Miguel and head out the Cross Island Highway towards the San Gervaiso ruins, supposedly a good area to look for Yucatán Nightjar. Our hopes were dashed however when we arrived at the entrance gate along the main highway to find that it was closed! Thaïs volunteered to speak to the security guard on the gate, but we weren t getting in!... It seems that the gates close around 4pm so you need to be inside the gate before then if you want to try for the nightjar along the access road, a few km in. We only had about a half hour before dusk so looked at the map.me app to see if we could find any other tracks off the main road nearby. We couldn t find anything decent but did drive up a track on the opposite side of the road closer to San Miguel with scrappy habitat. We had brief views of a few parrots in flight, but too brief to identify anything. We got excited then when we found a dull Myiarchus flycatcher. Photos later proved that it was a Dusky-capped Flycatcher and not the Cozumel Island race of Yucatán Flycatcher, which is supposed to be duller than the ones on the mainland. As darkness fell, no night birds were in evidence, which wasn t surprising as we were in poor habitat. We returned to our AirB&B and then went to a local restaurant in San Miguel for chicken fajitas, fairly pleased with our first day, or rather half day s birding on Cozumel. Monday 18 Dec. Got out to the grid of trails near the Hotel Presidente soon after first light. Birding quite slow at first but gradually we started seeing a few of our targets. A Blue-grey

9 Gnatcatcher of the Cozumel race was nice. Then a Rufous-browed Peppershrike of the Cozumel race, with much duller underparts than the birds on the mainland. As we slowly walked around the grids we eventually picked up and had good views of two Cozumel Wrens. They look quite different than House Wrens on the mainland, but are still classed by many authorities including I.O.C. as a race of House Wren (beani). A nice bonus was when we noticed a movement in a tree above us that proved to be a female Rose-throated Tanager. Another Cozumel Island race, but also a very welcome lifer eitherway. Two White-crowned Pigeons also showed well too, and our only two Caribbean Elaenias of the trip. Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Cozumel Caribbean Elaenia Cozumel. On arriving back to the car for some snacks we met a local man who told us we should walk a trail that lead to a cenote (natural limestone pool) as it has lots of birds. We drove about a kilometer or two towards the main road and saw the trail to the right off the road. We noticed a small patch of water to the left after about 20min walk, but were expecting something more impressive, so kept walking. After another 20 min we realised that that small area of water had to have been the cenote, so we turned back. Before we turned back however we had nice views of 2 Cozumel Emeralds at some flowering trees and a stunning Blue-winged Warbler. Back at the cenote a gorgeous Hooded Warbler was hopping around through the undergrowth. Otherwise things were quiet however. Because there had just recently been a lot of rain with large puddles on the roads, the cenote was probably not attracting birds to drink. As we continued on back to the road and the car, we came across our only two Cozumel Vireos of the trip and had nice views of this attractive and distinctive species. This took the pressure off, as it was the last of the endemics we were targeting.

10 Cozumel Vireo, Cozumel. Blue-grey Gnatcatcher, Cozumel. Yellow Warbler, Cozumel. Palm Warbler, Cozumel. We decided to drive back to the main road and travel further south along the island towards El Cedral, stopping for a chicken fajita lunch in a roadside restaurant. We paid a small fee at a barrier to visit the El Cedral area. We weren t interested in visiting the ruins, which were closed anyway, but the gardens and weedy fields nearby. We also intended to stay until after dark to try for nightbirds. We weren t too long out of the car before we picked up a Yucatán Vireo and had nice views. Amazingly this was to be our only sighting of the whole trip. A nearby garden was alive with birds including Tennessee Warbler, Magnolia Warbler, Northern Parula, American Redstarts, Bananaquits and best of all a stunning male Painted Bunting. We soon saw a female nearby too. As we walked the road we picked up a Green-breasted Mango (again our only one of the trip) and two gorgeous Summer Tanagers, as well as an unexpected Clay-coloured Thrush.

11 As dusk approached we headed a bit further up the entrance road towards the ruins where there was more tree cover both sides. We heard and saw quite a few Pauraques on the road, but alas we got no response to our playing of Yucatán Nightjar call. We drove back to our apartment in San Miguel, visited a local supermarket to stock up on snacks for tomorrow, and headed to our usual restaurant for dinner. After doing the log, we finally got to bed for 11.30pm. A long but successful day s birding. Tuesday 19 Dec. This morning we decided to head back to the Sewage plant and beyond to try for Ruddy Crake. After the sewage plant, the narrow undulating track was flooded with a series huge water-filled pools which we had to drive through. We had seen another car safely go through the first few pools earlier so reckoned we d give it a go. We kept driving until we reached the mangroves, and drove all the way to the end where there was a small car park and slip-way/pier. We decided to have breakfast in a nearby wooden look-out tower. Soon we heard some noises and there below us were two Raccoons. The ones on Cozumel are regarded as a separate species (Pygmy Raccoon). They were attracted by the few scraps of food that had fallen from the top of the look-out tower as we had breakfast. Then it was time to concentrate on the Ruddy Crakes. We drove back along the track through the mangroves until we reached the edge of the mangrove habitat. We found a spot to pull in, not easy on this narrow road. Soon after playing the Iphone, two crakes called back, one on each side of the road. The habitat was extremely dense however and meant extremely limited viewing holes to look for a bird. It reminded me of looking for Flufftails in Africa. After about 10 minutes, we were thinking of moving on, when a crake appeared briefly on a small patch of mud in a tiny window through the vegetation. We then succeeded in getting good views of it as we moved slightly and it reappeared in the same gap in the vegetation a few minutes later, even noting the reddish eyes catching the light. Success! As we headed back towards the Sewage works, we got to the third to the last pool. While driving through there was a bang, followed by a hissing sound. We had blown the tire on something under the water. We slowly drove off the track and changed the tire at the sewage works. After birding in the sewage works for a while and getting nice views of some Cozumel Emeralds, we stopped a few times along the road through Bello Caribe. A track to the right lead to a few pools, but birding was fairly quiet here and it was getting hot. We decided it was best to go back to San Miguel, go to the car hire place and get the tire sorted, as we had hoped to explore more of the island in the afternoon. It turned out the tire had a side-wall blow out with a rip about 2 inches long, so needed to be replaced. We had to pay about $US80 for Isis to get a new tire from a local garage. While they got the tire sorted we headed to a seafront restaurant for some lunch. After lunch, we collected the car and drove out the central island highway from San Miguel, before turning left for the San Gervaiso ruins. We went down a trail to the left about a km before the road ends at the car-park for the ruins. After a while we had good views of a

12 gorgeous male Western Spindalis. Another big target, as the Cozumel race differs from birds we had previously seen in Cuba. Our only Cape May Warbler on Cozumel also showed. We decided then to continue on the highway to the eastern side of the island. We couldn t find any pools where the road meets with the sea. Perhaps the mangroves have grown over them. We did find a nice pool a few km further along the road however on the right hand side. It had quite a few Blue-winged Teals, American Coots, Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, Least and Pied-billed Grebes, Little Blue Heron, Snowy Egret, Common Gallinules, Killdeers and Northern Jacanas. We did the circuit around the south end of the island, passing the road to El Cedral before arriving at the track to the ruined housing estate near the Hotel Presidente. The plan was to try for Yucatán Nightjar along the access road. After dark we firstly heard a few Pauraques, but further along the road, two Yucatán Nightjars were calling in the distance from the road. They never came towards us however. A bit disappointing. Back to the apartment in San Miguel and then out to our usual restaurant for dinner. Blue-winged Teals and American Coots on Cozumel. Wednesday 20 Dec. We were leaving Cozumel this morning, so brought our bags down to the plaza in front of the ferry terminal. Howard stayed to mind it, while myself and Thaïs returned the car to Isis rentals. At the terminal we found out that the ferry for the return ticket we had was not travelling until 9am. So rather than waiting another hour, we got a small percentage refund, and bought a single ticket from another ferry kiosk that was leaving at 8am. The lesson is to just buy a single ticket in Playa del Carmen to give you the best options to then leave the island. Back at Playa del Carmen, I changed some cash into Mexican currency and we walked the few blocks to the Mex Rent a car office, which Howard and Thaïs had checked out to confirm our

13 reservation on there first day in Playa del Carmen, before I had arrived in Mexico. We were talked into paying a bit more than the internet quoted price of $US400. This was for an extra named driver, full CDW etc. The car, a saloon Kia Rio, was almost new and much more comfortable that the one we d had on Cozumel. We used the maps.me app to get on the road south from Playa del Carmen. We stopped for a while to check out a sign-posted cenote to the right. After some discussion, we decided to not pay the fee to go in, and just continue south to Felipe Carillo Puerto. Two Rough-winged Swallows were flying around the car-park of the cenote entrance gate, but the views were not good enough for us to see if they were the endemic Yucatán race/(species?), Ridgeway s Rough-winged Swallow. Arriving at Felipe Carillo Puerto, we checked into the Hotel El Faisean y el Venado (prebooked for 2 nights). Then it was out to a nearby Taco bar for a quick lunch, before we headed south to the Laguna Ocom area. We had heard that this was an alternative place to do to the famous Vigia Chico Road, which we planned on doing tomorrow. We had also heard that the entrance trail to Laguna Ocom was good for seeing Yucatán Poorwill as the trees were a bit less dense. It was nice to do our first real mainland birding in the Yucatán peninsula. We quickly found a showy Mangrove Vireo and then another lifer for me in the form of a Spot-breasted Wren. In the end we saw three. Four new hummingbirds including White-bellied Emerald, Wedgetailed Sabrewing, Buff-bellied Hummingbird and a fairly brief Cinnamon Hummingbird at the lake. A Canivet s Emerald also showed well. We also had great views of a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl. Other birds noted included a pair of Barred Antshrikes and good views of Lesser Greenlets. The lake held large numbers of Mangrove Swallows and Northern Rough-winged Swallows but we never saw any perched up, so it was impossible to pick out any Ridgeway s that might have been present. We also had our first Myrtle/Yellow-rumped and Black-throated Green Warblers of the trip. Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Laguna Ocom track. Lesser Greenlet, Laguna Ocom track.

14 After dusk we heard at least three Yucatán Poorwills call back to the Iphone, but they remained too far off the track to give any views. With the torch, we had a brief sighting of a small nightjar in flight with the naked eye, which probably was one, but nothing satisfactory. Back at Felipe Carillo Puerto, we had dinner at the hotel and then did some shopping in a nearby supermarket to bring breakfast and lunch into the field tomorrow Thursday 21 Dec. We left the hotel to be at the Vigia Chico Road pre-dawn to try again for night-birds. After driving a few km along the trail we stopped and got a response from a Yucatán Poorwill. Once again it was just too far into the forest to see, despite our best efforts at scanning the wall of trees. They always seemed to be calling from the other side of the trees, so remaining out of view. Soon dawn approached and the bird was silent. We moved a bit further along the trail to an area with a bit of a clearing on the left. On our way down, a brief Thicket Tinamou ran across the trail. At the clearing, the idea was that we might see some parrots perched up. However a low and dense early morning fog didn t help the situation. A few Red-billed Pigeons flew through and we saw our first of many Velasquez s (Golden-fronted) Woodpeckers, Altamira Oriole, plus a flock of Yucatán Jays. After some time waiting without any parrot sightings, we wandered further along the road beyond the clearing. A male Grey-throated Chat showed briefly but well. One of the big target birds in the Yucatán peninsula. Other birds included a Bright-rumped Attila, 2 White-bellied Wrens, Green-backed Sparrow, Black-cowled Oriole and a Tropical Gnatcatcher but a Mayan Antthrush remained a heard-only. Grey-throated Chat, Vigia Chico road. Hooded Warbler, Vigia Chico road.

15 Bright-rumped Attila, Vigia Chico road. Green-backed Sparrow, Vigia Chico Road We continued on, driving and then stopping to do some birding. Near a larger clearing further up we had our first of many Olive-throated Parakeets, plus a pair of Couch s Kingbirds. We were able to study these birds at close quarters and compare them to the many Tropical Kingbirds we d seen on the trip so far. We also had our first Melodious Blackbird of the trip here. We also picked up a Myiarchus Flycatcher. It didn t call but was definitely interested in our recording of Yucatán Flycatcher. I got some record shots of it and it proved to be the only Yucatán Flycatcher we were to see on the trip. Yucatán Flycatcher, Vigia Chico Road. We continued driving on the track, eventually going to about 18km from the entrance. A few Red-throated Ant Tanagers revealed an ant swarm. As we watched the ants from the track, we picked up Tawny-winged Woodcreepers, Ruddy Woodcreepers, a female Greythroated Chat and a very showy male Hooded Warbler. Then as we scanned the ground I

16 picked up a male Kentucky Warbler hopping through the vegetation at the back. We soon heard its chup call and were able to follow it a bit, getting some good views eventually. This was a particularly satisfying sighting as I d missed this species before on all trips to the Americas. As we scanned for it another bird appeared nearby. It was a Swainson s Warbler, and gave very good but brief views before disappearing behind some vegetation and not being seen again. By now it was getting late and we decided to drive the long way back towards the first few km of the track to try for the Poorwill again, as dusk arrived. Once again it was a repeat of our morning s experience. We heard a few birds calling back to the tape, but all stayed too far off the trail to see anything. Our log that night shows that we heard 7 different Poorwills along the trail between the morning and evening attempts. We wondered how we were going to see this elusive species. We gave up and headed back to the hotel in Felipe Carillo Puerto, where we had dinner and shopped again in the supermarket for some breakfast in the field tomorrow. Friday 22 Dec. We left the hotel soon after 6am to return to the Vigia Chico Trail for a few hours. Once again we had a repeat of yesterday s experiences with the Poorwills pre-dawn, with about 3 different birds heard from the track, but none showing at all. We also heard a few Thicket Tinamous. However our luck improved at the clearing where we picked up two White-fronted Amazons perched up. A few minutes later we picked up two more parrots perched up, and half expected them to be the same two White-fronted Parrots. However on scoping them they proved to be a pair of Yucatán Amazons! One of our main targets for this area. They remained for some time, giving great views and allowing for some digi-scoping. A Rosebreasted Grosbeak also perched up nearby, our first of the trip. As we headed back along the trail, we managed to hear and see our only Stub-tailed Spadebills of the trip. We were back to the hotel by 10.30am and checked out by 11am. Then it was south towards Xpujil. However we decided we would divert left to Tres Garantias on our way. This place was mentioned in the trip report of Ross Gallardy and seemed like a spot worth visiting. He gave co-ordinates for where he saw Rufous-breasted Spinetail. We tried this area but had no success with the Spinetail. We then drove on the rough track off the road here, which led into the forest. We had a few new birds for the trip, including Eye-ringed Flatbill, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Blackheaded Trogon, and our first White-eyed and Yellow-throated Vireos of the trip. We also had a male Kentucky Warbler give some views. Then we had a brief view of a bird that proved to be a female Black-throated Shrike-tanager. My views were mostly obscured so I didn t see enough to count it, but Thaïs got a fairly good view.

17 Eye-ringed Flatbill, Tres Garantias. Yucatán Parrot, Vigia Chico Road. After some discussion we decided to wait until dark to try the area for Yucatán Poorwill. It would mean a later arrival at Xpujil but by now we were getting a bit obsessed with trying to see this species. Once again it was the same story however, we heard a bird call away from the track but it never came in close enough for us to get it in the torches. We arrived in Xpujil and found our pre-booked Cabanas, not too far from the town centre. It was a bit noisy, but after a long day, we were able to sleep easily. Oscar, the friendly owner gave us all a complementary can of beer to welcome us to the cabanas. Saturday 23 Dec. We set the alarm for 5am, (or so we thought!), to give an early start for the 40km commute to the entrance gate to Calakmul. It turned out that it was actually 4am, as we had forgotten that Xpujil, being in Campeche state, was an hour behind the nearby state of Quintana Roo. We joked that it would give us more time to listen to Yucatán Poorwills at Calakmul. And so it was! We had about half an hour before dawn along the entrance road to Calakmul and heard a single Yucatán Poorwill call from the road. It didn t come any closer and soon the dawn had arrived and it was silent. As we continued down the road towards Calakmul, a Thicket Tinamou nearly committed suicide when it flew across the road right in front of our moving car! Soon after we went through the second gate at km20, we saw a few Plain Chachalacas, the only ones of the trip we were to see, although we did hear a few others. Further along the road, a fantastic male Great Curassow crossed the road ahead of our car, but immediately disappeared into the thick vegetation. Also along the road we encountered quite a few Swainson s and Wood Thrushes. We stopped at the cenote near km27. A Least Grebe, a few Green Herons and a Little Blue Heron were around the cenote.

18 We had to wait until we got to the ruins themselves before we saw our first Ocellated Turkeys, the main target bird for this area. We also had our only Collared Aracari of the trip as we walked to the ruins as well as a gorgeous male Blue Bunting. Near the impressive ruins, we found an army ant swarm, and had great views of attending Tawny-winged, Ruddy and Northern Barred Woodecreepers. An Ivory-billed Woodpecker also showed well nearby. We also succeeded in getting great view of two Mayan Antthrushes, a very welcome sighting after only hearing one earlier along the Vigia Chico road. Another lifer for me was Northern Bentbill, with a few brief but good sightings. We also saw the isolated race albinuca of Carolina Wren, often split as White-browed Wren. Blue Bunting, Calakmul Collared Aracari, Calakmul After dusk, we got closer to getting a look at a Yucatán Poorwill. Thaïs saw a shape sitting right beside the car. I then saw a shape fly across the road, and got a naked eye view of the bird as I scanned with the torch before it immediately flew. Nothing however that we could be happy to count. These birds seemed to be such a challenge to see! Then we did the long drive back to our Cabanas at Xpujil, before doing some shopping for snacks for our return visit to Calakmul tomorrow. Sunday 24 Dec. We left very early again for another attempt at getting decent views of a Poorwill. Yet again, we had no success, only hearing a bird call too far into the forest to get any views. We slowly drove as far as the 42km marker post from the main road and then turned back. We made a number of birding stops, seeing a few Ocellated Turkeys, a Gartered Trogon, Bright-rumped Attila, Masked Tityra, Green-backed Sparrow, Bluewinged Warbler, White-bellied Wrens and a White-breasted Wood Wren. Also our first Northern Beardless Tyrannulet of the trip, and our only Yellow-backed Orioles of the trip. Also noted were a female Rose-throated Tanager, plus many roadside Swainson s

19 and Wood Thrushes. Best of all however was a female Grey-collared Becard, one of our few remaining target birds here at this stage. Rose-throated Tanager, female, Calakmul. Wood Thrush, Calakmul. We returned to the cenote near the 27km marker. A male Kentucky Warbler showed fairly well in the nearby vegetation. After a while we got some great views of the recently split Rufous-naped Wood Rail. A pair of Least Grebes, together with a juvenile were present. A very tame Yucatán Brown Brocket Deer showed well too! Yucatán Brown Brocket Deer, Calakmul. Swamp forest habitat at cenote near k72, Calakmul After dusk, we once again tried for the Poorwill. We soon heard two birds but once again we got no views before it got too dark and they became silent. We wondered if we d get to see the species at all. Was it the time of year that was making them unresponsive? Then it was back to the cabanas at Xpujil for our last night there. We found a shop there and stocked up on snacks for tomorrow, not expecting much to be open on Christmas Day.

20 Spider Monkeys with curious baby, Calakmul. Monday 25 Dec. Before heading north from Xpujil, we decided to visit the nearby ruins of Hormiguero, a distance of about 13km. A local birder we d met at Calakmul mentioned that it was a good site sometimes for Black-throated Shrike-tanager. We arrived at the gate, which was closed, along the track to Hormiguero. We parked the car up and walked around the gate towards the ruins. Besides the birding, it was nice to be able to wander around these impressive ruins by ourselves early on Christmas morning. There were no other visitors before we left, although a worker had arrived to open the gate while we were at the ruins. We didn t succeed with the Shrike-tanager but did have our only Crested Guan of the trip as well as hearing Thicket Tinamou. We also saw a Grey-headed Tanager and our third and last Rose-throated Tanager of the trip (once again another female!), our only Lesson s Motmot of the trip, plus good views of two Pale-billed Woodpeckers, a nice male Hooded Warbler and yet another Kentucky Warbler. Back in Xpujil, we filled up on fuel, bought some more snacks and by 10.45hrs headed north on the inland route to Uxmal from Xpujil. We had a hotel pre-booked in Uxmal that night, so reckoned it was best to head straight to Uxmal and go birding from there. We took a roadside stop en route to have our picnic lunch. A few Yucatán Jays were in the nearby trees. We finally arrived at the plush Hotel Uxmal Maya resort at about 14.45hrs. We checked in and then headed to the Uxmal Mayan ruins for the last hour and a half of the day. The carpark and ruins were quite busy with visitors (a big contrast to our experience at Hormiguero this morning).

21 Pale-billed Woodpecker, Hormiguero Impressive ruins at Hormiguero Still excavating the ruins Amazing detail close up. Just before the entrance gate, we managed to see a few Scrub Euphonias in a fruiting tree. Another welcome lifer for me. We walked around the impressive ruins for a while and came across a few birds, a Turquoise-browed Motmot showed well, as well as a very close Roadside Hawk. We also had our only Green Jays of the trip. We also had two Altamira Orioles and a Baltimore Oriole in the same fruiting tree as the jays. A few Amazona Parrots were moving around another more obscured tree, and one eventually showed OK, and proved to be a Yucatán Parrot. As it got later in the evening, we were all asked to leave as the park was closing. This is not what I wanted to hear as we had just seen the first of many Cave Swallows flying high arriving back to roost in the ruins. This was a lifer and I wanted to see them well. Back in the car-park I managed to get a few birds in the scope for reasonable views. They were accompanied by small numbers of Vaux s Swifts too. Back at the hotel, we decided to walk a nearby track as it got dark. However we heard no nightbirds. The habitat was a bit thrashed however. We ate at the hotel restaurant that night.

22 Some of the impressive Mayan ruins at Uxmal. Tuesday 26 Dec. We decided to do some early morning pre-breakfast birding on the same track beside the hotel. We walked about 2km down the track near the hotel grounds. It was generally fairly quiet but back around the hotel we had a nice obliging group of Yucatán Jay with a few Melodious Blackbirds nearby. Best of all though were a small group of Roughwinged Swallows, which were perching up around the hotel and proved to be Ridgway s Rough-winged Swallows. Melodious Blackbird, Uxmal. Yucatán Jay, Uxmal.

23 Ridgeway s Rough-winged Swallow, Uxmal. Note pale loral area and dark undertail covert tips. By 8am we headed to the hotel restaurant for breakfast, checked out and after a last look around the grounds were on the road to Rio Lagartos by 9am. After a few hours driving, we stopped for a picnic lunch just east of Tizimin. Just after 1pm, we finally arrived at the small town of Rio Lagartos, and checked into the very quirky Hotel Macumba. From the balcony that overlooks the harbour and distant mangroves, we could watch lots of Brown and White Pelicans, Cabot s and Royal Terns, Northern Skimmers, Laughing Gulls and a single Forster s Tern. Entrance door to Hotel Macumba Thaïs Armstrong Hotel Macumba, Rio Lagartos.

24 Hotel Macumba quirky décor. Thaïs Armstrong View from the balcony! Laughing Gulls and Black Skimmers at Rio Lagartos We then decided to drive the short distance east across the seafront to La Chiquilla Restaurant on the eastern side of the town. We knew that the hummingbird feeders here attracted one of our main target birds, Mexican Sheartail. Sure enough, we bought a drink and after a short wait the first Mexican Sheartail arrived to feed on the two small feeders above the doors of the café. A few more appeared, including a nice adult male, as well as a Cinnamon Hummingbird.

25 Male Mexican Sheartail at feeder Cabot s Tern, Rio Lagartos. For the late afternoon and evening, we decided to head out to the track to the San Salvador ranch to try for a few of the target birds there. We parked near the entrance to the track and walked from there. It was a nice calm evening with bright sunshine, and it was also nice to visits a new habitat of drier low scrubby vegetation, a lot different than most of the forest habitat we d be in already. After some time we finally picked up our first and only Orange Orioles of the trip, and got good views. A female Orchard Oriole also showed. Then a Yucatán Wren showed very well. 2 distant King Vultures were also nice to see. Lots of Indigo Buntings were present, but we didn t see any Painted Buntings. I was glad we d got to see this species on Cozumel, earlier in the trip. Orange Oriole, Rio Lagartos. Further along the track we flushed a few Black-throated/Yucatán Bobwhites near a farm but views were brief and only of them flying away. We would have to hope for better. As we walked back towards the car, a Yucatán Bobwhite sat on the track ahead of us. It sat for a while but the distance was quite large and the light was starting to fade. A better view but

26 hopefully, we would get even better tomorrow. After dusk, we heard and saw a few Pauraques on the track, but this wasn t Poorwill habitat! We had heard about another Restaurant, the Ria Maya/ Isla Conyoy that was run by a local birder Diego. He also had hummingbird feeders that attracted Mexican Sheartail and Cinnamon Hummimgbird. But what was of more interest to us was that he had discovered a number of years ago that Yucatán Nightjars were present in the mangroves. We visited the restaurant for dinner and after we enquired, Diego arrived to talk to us. He could bring us on a boat trip tomorrow evening to try for the Nightjar. We arranged to come back tomorrow evening for 3pm for an evening trip to the mangroves, and then try for the Nightjar. Not cheap but we felt it probably our best chance to see the Nightjar. Yucatán Wren, near Rio Lagartos Diego also suggested that we drive slowly down the track at San Salvador ranch for the best chance of Lesser Roadrunner tomorrow, rather than walking. Wednesday 27 Dec. Out soon after dawn on the San Salvador track and this time we drove about 7km slowly down the fairly narrow track and then slowly drove back up. Birding was a bit disappointing in that we failed to see any Lesser Roadrunner and only had flight views again of Yucatán Bobwhites. Two Zenaida Doves were seen in flight, as well as a Merlin and some Northern Beardless Tyrannulets and a few Yucatán Wrens, a few Hooded Orioles, but no more Orange Orioles.

27 By mid morning, we headed east to Las Coloradas. We found a restaurant and had some brunch. After this, we found a few saltpans but there weren t too many birds to be seen. We visited the beach nearby and took a walk to the water s edge. Lots of Laughing Gulls but also a near-adult Lesser Black-backed Gull and a 1 st. Winter American Herring Gull showed well. A Willet also gave nice views on the shore. Lots of Magnificent Frigatebirds around too. We then returned to the hotel. I did a bit of scoping from the balcony, before it was time for us to head over to Diego s restaurant for the boat trip. It turned out to be closer to 4pm before Diego made it to the hotel and we were off on the boat out towards the mangroves. First up were fantastic views of Mangrove Warbler, still classed by some authorities as a race of Yellow Warbler. These were the first I d seen, so we were off to a good start. We then visited another part of the mangroves where Diego knew of a Boat-billed Heron roosting. We arrived on site and sure enough he spotted the bird instantly, and we managed by bending down to get a small window through the mangrove vegetation to see it. We stopped at a small boardwalk and disembarked, walking through the mangroves for a while. I played the call of Rufous-necked Wood Rail, but unfortunately we got no response. The same for Mangrove Cuckoo. A Hooded Warbler showed well and we saw two Morelet s Crocodiles in a small pool within the mangroves. Morelet s Crocodile, Rio Lagartos American Flamingos at sunset, Rio Lagartos. Back on the boat, as the sun was setting we got nice views of American Flamingos and a Reddish Egret. We also saw a white morph Great Blue Heron. Then it was back to the land where we had dinner at the restaurant. Afterwards, we would go back out to the mangroves on the boat to look for Yucatán Nightjars. After our poor luck with nightbirds so far on this trip, I wasn t too hopeful as we set off. A Yellow-crowned Night Heron was sitting on a boat around the harbour and a Blackcrowed Night Heron on another. Diego had a powerful spotlight, which made our torches fairly redundant. As we reached the mangroves, Diego was scanning for eye shine from a large distance. He then made a sharp turn and the engine roared as we turned direction towards the edge of the mangroves, At a certain point he cut the engine and turned the spotlight on and calmly said There is one. We all scrambled for a look, and then picked it up. A fantastic Yucatán

28 Nightjar sitting on a small stump in the mangroves. Amazing, and even more amazing was that in the next half hour Diego picked up two more birds and all gave excellent perched views in the spotlight. We were elated as we returned to Rio Lagartos, and walked back to our hotel. Three different Yucatán Nightjars, Rio Lagartos. Thursday 28 Dec. Diego had suggested that for my main target birds remaining (Lesser Roadrunner and Mangrove Cuckoo), we again return to the San Salvador ranch track, but begin even earlier, and go right to the end, then drive slowly back with the sun behind us. So we left the hotel for the fairly short drive to the track at 05.30hrs. We drove all the way to the end down the ever-narrowing track. Luckily we didn t meet any cars coming the other direction! We ended up outside the gate of a farm with open fields and lots of cattle, presumably the San Salvador ranch. A few Killdeers showed well in the field here and our only Bronzed Cowbirds of the trip. We were just about to get back into the car to drive back along the track when Thaïs picked up a Mangrove Cuckoo in the distance sitting in a tree. I quickly got the scope on it and we all managed a look in the scope before it dropped.a welcome lifer for me. Thanks Thaïs! Things were to get even better shortly afterwards, when about one km back along the track, a largish bird dropped from a tree onto the track in front of the car. A Lesser Roadrunner! It soon saw the car and as Roadrunners do, ran up the track and disappeared into the nearby vegetation. We couldn t re-locate it, but it really was great to have got some good but brief views of this bird. Our last real chance at this species being this morning.

29 Killdeer, near Rio Lagartos. Heading back along the track, from the moving car, I picked up a Yucatán Bobwhite sitting close to the track. A quick reversal and we all got to see it. There were actually four of them, all males, feeding away. They soon moved off further into the vegetation and out of sight. Great to see, as we d only had fleeting views so far, despite a lot of looking. We also had a Crane Hawk perched up and a Short-tailed Hawk fly-over. A few Zenaida Doves were also noted, as well as a few Ruby-throated Hummingbirds. Back on the main road we went a bit further along the road towards Las Coloradas and parked at a gate on the right hand side. This lead to a freshwater cenote with viewing tower, which Diego had said was a nice birding spot. We didn t see anything new, but a Northern Waterthrush and a Grey Fox showed well. Grey Fox, Rio Lagartos Northern Waterthrush, Rio Lagartos We then drove back to the hotel, and checked out. We decided to head back to La Chiquilla restuarant for lunch and for a final look at the hummingbird feeders, where both Mexican Sheartail and Cinnamon Hummingbird again performed.

30 Then we were on the road to Valladolid. We had pre-booked a fairly cheap and basic hotel (Hotel Sol Colonial). We checked in and then drove south to the small village of Xocen and found the track (as mentioned in Ross Gallardy Report). Xocen was supposed to be good for nightbirds so we knew this area would be our site to look for the Poorwill. We found the coordinates of where Gallardy had a bird and parked our car nearby. We walked a bit to see what was around before it got dark enough to try for the Poorwill. As evening fell Thicket Tinamous began to call. A Singing Quail also called but it didn t respond to the tape. As dusk approached we started to hear a Yucatán Poorwill only about 100m further up the track to Gallardy s co-ordinates. Playing the tape, it seemed to move and we caught a glimpse of a shape over our heads. The usual problem with these birds seems to be that they seem to respond quickly to the tape and fly in/over but then sit calling from the dense forest after that. It wasn t viewable from the track but then we noticed a slightly cleared area off the track. We slowly walked in about 10m. Scanning with the torch I picked up eye-shine. Just as I shone the torch on the bird it flew unfortunately. However a short time later we caught a movement and there it was back on the same perch! Myself and Thaïs were at the right angle to get a reasonable view of it sitting on the stump through the canopy, but Howard was not as lucky, only seeing the eye-shine. After a while, it went quite and our chance was gone. We knew that we could have one more try for the bird tomorrow, and hopefully this stump was a regular perch Shortly afterwards Howard mentioned that he d just heard a Middle American Screech Owl call. We played the tape a little and had one or two tantalising naked-eye flight views, before it finally perched up and I got the torch on it. It sat in the open for some great views, before flying off further into the forest and out of sight. A very successful end to our birding day. Then it was back to Valladolid for dinner, and onto the hotel. Friday 29 Dec. We decided not to go to Xocen for pre-dawn nightbirding and leave trying for the Poorwill until the evening again. We arrived soon after 6.30am and drove up the rough track a few km. We heard a Singing Quail calling loudly a few times not too far from the track but it didn t respond to the tape. A nice male Rose-throated Becard was new for the trip. A White-browed (Carolina) Wren also showed well as well as two Grey-headed Tanagers. We soon arrived at the spot where we d had the Poorwill the previous evening. In the daytime we cleared the vegetation a bit more making it easier to see the small stump that the Poorwill had used twice when we were present. We reckoned that like the Yucatán Nightjars at Rio Lagartos, the Poorwills probably have a few favourite perches they hunt insects from during the night. The plan was to return at dusk and be watching the stump as the light faded

31 Middle American Screech Owl, Xocen. By 11.30am we decided to head back towards Valladolid for an early lunch, where we found a restaurant with good chicken fajitas. Diego had mentioned that the ruins at Ek Balam, not too far north of Valladolid, were a good spot sometimes for seeing Singing Quail. As this was one of my major targets, we decided to head there for a few hours for the afternoon. We saw a few mixed flocks and new in these for the trip was a Philadelphia Vireo and a female Black-throated Blue Warbler. At a quieter part of the trails, behind the main ruins, we played the tape of Singing Quail and after some time walking the trails, we heard one calling back loudly to the tape, not far off the track. Then Thaïs shouted. She d had a view of it. I saw the shape move on the ground with the naked eye but that was it. I thought my chance was gone. I moved a little bit further down the track. Played the tape one more time, crouched down, and waited. Then unbelievably, I caught a movement on the ground coming in from my left and going behind a small tree. It continued walking out from behind the tree, and went right past me, and then paused and began to sing its heart out!! Amazing. In a few seconds it disappeared back into the undergrowth and that was it! I savoured the moment to watch the bird rather than trying for the photo.

32 We had got a bit delayed at Ek Balam, due to the Quail, so it was nearly 4pm when we were leaving to get back to Xocen for the Poorwill. We drove straight there and down the bumpy track and finally arrived at our Poorwill site just after 5.30pm. Just in time, as the light was starting to go.. As it darkened, we played the tape once and heard a Poorwill call back. Then it seemed to move and was calling from the area near the stump. We walked off-track and stood on the exact spot where we could all see the stump through the leaves and branches. Even before shining the torch, we could see that the bird was on it! A silhouette against the sky. We shone the torch. It flew almost immediately. These are shy birds! We reckoned we would just wait and not disturb it with the tape. Surely it would return to the stump. And return it did. Within a few minutes there was the silhouette again. I was ready with the camera immediately as Thaïs shone the torch this time, and I blasted off a few shots. After all the effort trying to get good views of this species over the last 2 weeks, this was one of the highlight moments of the trip! After a short while the bird moved again but with the torch we located the eye-shine again and had some more views. We then left the bird in peace, very happy with our evening s work and that the earlier work involved in making the stump a bit more visible had paid off. Yucatán Poorwill, Xocen. As a Middle American Screech Owl called nearby, we decided it was time to head back to the hotel in Valladolid, and later went out to a restaurant for dinner. Saturday 30 Dec. We were heading back to Cancun today, but not having to get up early for nightbirds, we were finally able to have a sort of lie-in until 6.30am! We then discussed it and decided to make a diversion to Coba en route to Cancun. When we were initially planning this trip we had included a visit to Coba, overnighting in Tulum after our visit to Cozumel, but then decided it would be best to have another night on Cozumel and a bit more time at Felipe Carillo Puerto when we left Cozumel. This worked out well. So now we had enough time for a short visit to the lake at Coba before returning to Cancun. Another reason I wanted to visit Coba was Yellow-winged Tanager, a species we had failed to see so far on the trip, and

33 probably the only gettable target left for me in this part of Mexico. We had some co-ordinates for fruiting trees on the southern side of the lake where this species had been seen previously. We arrived about 11.30am in Coba, passed the entrance to the ruins and continued driving around the southern shore of the lake. Within a few minutes of leaving the car, we d picked up a few species new for the trip: Snail Kite, Ringed Kingfisher and Anhinga. A few Pied-billed Grebes were also on the lake. As we walked a bit further along the road after parking the car, we picked up two or three Yellow-winged Tanagers with a few Blue-grey Tanagers (also new for the trip!). A very efficient twitch! The Yellow-winged Tanagers soon disappeared but the Blue-greys hung around. We waited a while but had no more sightings. A Cedar Waxwing appeared and was also new for the trip. A few Masked Tityras and both Yellow-throated Vireo and Yellowthroated Warbler also showed, as well as a nice male Cape May Warbler. A few Yellowthroats were moving in the reeds and marsh-grass at the edge of the lake. One looked different, it was a Grey-crowned Yellowthroat, and sat out to give some nice views. It gave some nice comparison views with Common Yellowthroat. We decided to walk a small track on the far opposite side of the lake, which lead down from some houses. Two nice male Orchard Orioles showed well. Then some Yellow-billed Caciques appeared and gave some fleeting views. Our last Yucatán Jays of the trip also showed. After a while, we realised that time was pushing on. We had finished our birding for this trip to Mexico. We found a nice restaurant for some chicken tacos. Then it was onto the road for the return to Cancun. We found the fantastic AirB&B that Howard and Thaïs had booked for their last night. I was flying home this evening, so after a quick shower at their B&B, we said our goodbyes, and I dropped the car back to the Mex/Fox Car rentals office at the airport and checked in for my Virgin Atlantic flight to Gatwick, which left on time at 20.05hrs. Grey-crowned Yellowthroat, Coba. Common Yellowthroat, Coba.

34 Swimming pool at AirB&B in Cancun. Thaïs Armstrong. Despite staying at a few places with swimming pools over the years, we never seem to get to use any, being too busy with the dawn to dusk birding. Sorry Thaïs!!... Annotated Species List: Thicket Tinamou Cryprellus cinnamomeus Two brief sightings: One at Vigia Chico Road and another at Calakmul. Also heard calling at dawn and dusk at a number of forested sites. Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis Only seen at a roadside pool on Cozumel Island where about 15 were noted. Blue-winged Teal Spatula discors Only seen at a roadside pool on Cozumel Island where about 25 were noted. Plain Chachalaca Ortalis vetula Heard at Vigia Chico road and at Xocen. Two seen well at Calakmul. Great Curassow Crax rubra A male crossing the road at Calakmul was our only sighting. Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens One seen at Hormiguero.

35 Yucatán Bobwhite Colinus nigrogularis Recorded on each visit to the San Salvador track near Rio Lagartos, but only seen well on our last day. Apparently in Spring, the males sit up on boulders to sing, and are easier to see. Yucatán Bobwhite (male), Rio Lagartos Ocellated Turkey, Calakmul. Singing Quail Dactylortyx thoracicus Heard at Xocen, and then one showed very closely at Ek Balam. It was a major trip highlight for me. Ocellated Turkey Meleagris ocellata About a dozen noted on first day at Calakmul, with four birds logged the next day. Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Three birds seen on roadside pool on Cozumel, with two adults and a small juv. seen on the cenote near km27, Calakmul. Pied-billed Grebe Podilyymbus podiceps One on a roadside pool Cozumel and three noted on lake at Coba. American Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Seen daily around Rio Lagartos. American Flamingos, Rio Lagartos. Magnificent Frigatebird, Rio lagartos

36 American White Ibis Eudocimus albus About four logged on two dates at Rio Lagartos. Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Recorded daily at Rio Lagartos with a maximum of six birds noted one day. Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius One seen and one heard in the mangroves at Rio Lagartos, during a boat trip. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax One noted at Rio Lagartos, where it is a winter visitor. Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea Two recorded at Rio Lagartos. Green Heron Butorides virescens About five noted at the cenote at km27, Calakmul. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis About eight birds noted on Cozumel and 20 seen at Rio Lagartos. Boat-billed Heron, Rio Lagartos Reddish Egret, Rio Lagartos. Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias One on Cozumel and a few, including a white morph bird, noted at Rio Lagartos. Great Egret Ardea alba A few noted at wetland sites throughout. Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens One seen at Rio Lagartos. Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor One seen at Rio Lagartos. Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea One seen on a roadside pool, Cozumel. A few noted at wetland sites on the mainland. Snowy Egret Egretta thula One seen on a roadside pool, Cozumel. About 10 noted at Rio Lagartos. American White Pelican Pelecanus erythrorhynchos Seen daily at Rio Lagartos with a peak count of 150 birds one day.

37 Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis Seen at Playa del Carmen and Cozumel, and in large numbers at Rio Lagartos. Little Blue Heron, Coba Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Rio Lagartos Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens Seen at Playa del Carmen and Cozumel, and in large numbers at Rio Lagartos. Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus A few seen at Rio Lagartos and also at lake at Coba. Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus Noted on Cozumel and then in larger numbers at Rio Lagartos. Anhinga Anhinga anhinga One seen at the lake at Coba. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common and seen most days. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus A few recorded around Rio Lagartos Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Common and seen most days. King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa Two birds seen together from the San Salvador Ranch track, near Rio Lagartos. Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus A few noted at Rio Lagartos and one at the lake at Coba.

38 Double-crested Cormorant, Rio Lagartos. Magnificent Frigatebird, Rio Lagartos Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis One seen well at the lake at Coba. Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens One recorded at Rio Lagartos, perched up. Common Black Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus Two recorded around Rio Lagartos. Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris Seen at a few locations throughout. Roadside Hawk, Uxmal. Snail Kite and Anhinga, Coba. Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus Two seen near Rio Lagartos. Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis One noted near Rio Lagartos.

39 Ruddy Crake Laterrallus ruber One seen well from the track beyond the Sewage Works on Cozumel. Quite a few others heard here too. Rufous-naped Wood Rail Aramides albiventris Two seen well and a few more heard at the cenote near km27, Calakmul. Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata Two recorded on Cozumel on roadside pool. American Coot Fulica americana About 25 on Cozumel, on a roadside pool. Killdeer Charadrius vociferous Two recorded on Cozumel on a roadside pool. Three in a field at the end of the San Salvador track, Rio Lagartos area. Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa Four noted on Cozumel on a roadside pool. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Common at coastal sites visited: Playa Del Carmen, Cozumel and Rio Lagartos. Sanderling Calidris alba About four seen on Cozumel. One at Rio Lagartos. Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla A flock flying over one of the salt pans at Los Colorades was the only sighting. Wilson s Snipe Gallinago delicata One, or possibly two, seen around the Sewage Works on Cozumel. Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius A few noted on both Cozumel and Rio Lagartos. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes One briefly on Cozumel and another at Rio Lagartos. Willet Tringa melanoleuca One seen at Rio Lagartos and another on the beach at Los Colorades. Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Large numbers noted at Rio Lagartos, with over 100 seen each day. Black Skimmer Rio Lagartos. Laughing Gulls and Black Skimmers at Rio Lagartos

40 Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla Large numbers noted at Rio Lagartos. Also recorded at Playa del Carmen and on Cozumel. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus A near adult seen on the beach at Las Colorades, near Rio Lagartos. Lesser-black Backed Gull, near Rio Lagartos. American Herring Gull, near Rio Lagartos American Herring Gull, near Rio Lagartos Willet, near Rio Lagartos. American Herring Gull Larus smithsonianus A first-winter bird was seen on the beach at Las Colorades, near Rio Lagartos. Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus One seen on Cozumel and a few noted daily around Rio Lagartos. Cabot s Tern Thalasseus acuflavidus About 10 seen at Playa Del Carmen and Cozumel, and a few seen daily around Rio Lagartos. Forster s Tern Sterna forsteri Two noted around Rio Lagartos. Rock Dove Columba livia/feral Pigeon Seen regularly around human habitation.

41 White-crowned Pigeon Patagioenas leucocephala A total of four birds logged on Cozumel Island. Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris A few birds noted along the Vigia Chico Trail and at Calakmul. Cabot s Tern, Rio Lagartos Royal Tern, Rio Lagartos

42 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Regularly recorded at most sites during the trip. Common Ground Dove Columbina passerina A few noted around Rio Lagartos. Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti Commonly seen at most sites throughout, except not in forest. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Just one sighting along Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita A few noted along San Salvador track, near Rio Lagartos, all in flight. White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica Seen in good numbers near Uxmal and a few noted near Rio Lagartos. Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris A few noted on Cozumel and more sightings on the mainland. Lesser Roadrunner Geococcyx velox One finally seen along the San Salvador track, Rio Lagartos, on our last morning there. Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana One along Vigia Chico track and two noted near Rio Lagartos. Mangrove Cuckoo Coccyzus minor One finally seen at the end San Salvador track, Rio Lagartos, on our last morning there. Middle American Screech Owl Megascops guatemalae One seen well and heard calling at Xocen, and also heard there again the following evening. Great Horned Owl Bubo virginianus One heard at night in the mangroves during boat trip. Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum This diurnal owl was seen along the track to Laguna Ocom, at Tres Garantias, at Uxmal and also at Xocen. A few others were also heard. Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis A few heard and seen on Cozumel. Two seen along San Salvador track, Rio Lagartos. One recorded at Xocen. Yucatán Poorwill Nyctiphrynus yucatanicus Heard at dawn and dusk at Vigia Chico trail, Tres Garantias and Calakmul, but despite a lot of effort, we never got satisfactory views at any of these sites. We had a few glimpses as birds would usually react initially to the tape but then sit deep in the forest calling back. Finally at Xocen, we managed to get good views of this difficult forest nightjar by stalking a calling bird off-trail. Apparently this is considered by some birders familiar with Mexican birds to be one of the most misidentified species in Mexico. They are quite shy, and do not generally sit on the road like Pauraques, usually remaining in the deep forest.

43 Yucatán Nightjar Antrostomus badius Two birds heard on Cozumel Island one evening, and then not recorded again until we did a night boat trip into the mangroves at Rio Lagartos, where three birds were spotlighted and showed very well. Vaux s Swift Chaetura vauxi A few recorded on Cozumel and along the Vigia Chico track. Larger numbers seen at the ruins at Uxmal towards dusk. Wedge-tailed Sabrewing Campylopterus pampa A few seen daily around Felipe Carillo Puerto and Calakmul. Green-breasted Mango Anthracothorax prevostii Surprisingly only one recorded, on Cozumel Island at El Cedral. Cozumel Emerald Chlorostilbon forficatus A few seen each day on Cozumel, where it is endemic. Cozumel Emerald, Cozumel, (pity about the flower!). Canivet s Emerald Chlorostilbon canivettii A few seen along Vigia Chico trail; at Calakmul and one near Rio Lagartos. Cinnamon Hummingbird Amazilia rutila The first seen was a bird at Laguna Ocom, Felipe Carillo Puerto. A few seen daily near Rio Lagartos, especially around the hummingbird feeders at restaurants (La Chiquilla and Isla Contoy). Two also recorded at Coba. Buff-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia yucatanicus Seen at both Laguna Ocom and the Vigia Chico track. One also at Calakmul. White-bellied Emerald Amazilia candida Seen daily at Laguna Ocom and the Vigia Chico track, around Felipe Carillo Puerto. Mexican Sheartail Doricha eliza Recorded at Rio Lagartos, mostly at the hummingbird feeders at restaurants (La Chiquilla and Isla Contoy) in the town.

44 Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubris A few along San Salvador Ranch track, Rio Lagartos. Black-headed Trogon Trogon melanocephalus Singles seen at both Tres Garantias and at Calakmul. Gartered Trogon Trogon caligatus Two birds seen at Calakmul. Mexican Sheartail, male Mexican Sheartail, female Gartered Trogon, Calakmul. Turquoise-browed Motmot, Uxmal. Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata One seen over the lake at Coba. Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon Singles seen at Laguna Ocom, Calakmul (cenote near km27), Rio Lagartos and the lake at Coba.

45 Lesson s Motmot Momotus lessonii Just one seen, at Hormiguero. Turquoise-browed Motmot Eumomota superciliosa Single birds seen at Uxmal ruins and at Xocen. Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus Single bird seen at Calakmul. Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus Two recorded at Vigia Chico Trail and another two at Calakmul. Yucatán Woodpecker Melanerpes pygmaeus Seen daily on Cozumel and one recorded on mainland at Xocen. Velasquez s Woodpecker (Golden-fronted Woodpecker) Melanerpes santacruzi Seen almost daily at forested sites on the mainland. Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus A few recorded at Vigia Chico trail, near Felipe Carillo Puerto. Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis Two heard and seen briefly at Calakmul. Two seen well at Hormiguero. Yucatán Woodpeckers, Cozumel

46 Northern Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Two singles recorded at Rio Lagartos. Collared Forest Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus The distinctive loud call was heard at dusk on five different occasions at Vigia Chico Trail, Calakmul. and near Rio Lagartos, but the birds were not seen. Merlin Falco columbarius Two birds recorded near Rio Lagartos. White-fronted Amazon Amazona albifrons A flock of unidentified parrots of either this species or the next were seen on Cozumel. We then saw this species at the Vigia Chico Track, Felipe Carillo Puerto, at Calakmul and at Xocen. Yucatán Amazon Amazona xantholora A flock of unidentified parrots of either this species or the previous were seen on Cozumel. We had nice scope views of a pair of this species along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto. We saw one more definite bird near the ruins at Uxmal. Olive-throated (Aztec) Parakeet Eupsittula nana First seen along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto. We had regular sightings near forest and forest-edge habitat during the rest of the trip. Tawny-winged Woodcreeper Dendrocincla anabatina A total of five birds logged at ant swarms along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto; at Calakmul and at Xocen. Ruddy Woodcreeper Dendrocincla homochroa Three birds seen along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto. One more briefly at Calakmul. Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus One noted along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto; two at Calakmul and two at Xocen. Northern Barred Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae One showed well at an ant swarm at Calakmul. Ivory-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus flavigaster A total of five birds logged during the trip at various forested sites. Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus A pair noted near Laguna Ocom. A few others heard during the trip. Mayan Antthrush Formicarius moniliger One heard but not seen along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Two seen well at Calakmul. Caribbean Elaenia Elaenia martinica Two birds seen together on Cozumel were the only ones noted. Northern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma imberbe One seen at Calakmul and two seen near Rio Lagartos. Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginous Just one bird recorded at Tres Garantias.

47 Northern Barred Woodcreeper, Calakmul Ruddy Woodcreeper, Vigia Chico Road. Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, Calakmul Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, Calakmul. Northern Bentbill Oncostoma cinereigulare Three birds recorded at Calakmul. Eye-ringed Flatbill Rhynchocyclus brevirostris One bird seen at Tres Garantias was the only one seen on the trip. Stub-tailed Spadebill Platyrinchus cancrominus Two birds seen at the beginning of the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto, were the only ones noted.

48 Least Flycatcher Empidonax minimus First seen along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto and then seen daily at Calakmul in small numbers after that. Northern Beardless Tyrannulet, Rio Lagartos Least Flycatcher, Calakmul Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus obscurus A single female seen along the San Salvador ranch track and a pair seen on our last morning there. Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similes Regularly recorded on the mainland throughout the trip. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus A few noted on the mainland throughout the trip. Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Very common and recorded almost daily on both Cozumel and the mainland. Couch s Kingbird Tyrannus couchii We saw our first ones along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Best confirmed from the latter species by voice. We also recorded two near Rio Lagartos. Others may have been missed. Yucatán Flycatcher Myiarchus yucatanicus We saw quite a few Myiarchus flycatchers which were left unidentified at the time. Most didn't seem to be calling at this time of year. Two birds seen and photographed along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto, proved to be this species. Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer We saw quite a few Myiarchus flycatchers which were left unidentified at the time. Most didn't seem to be calling at this time of year. A single bird of this species was photographed on Cozumel. Great-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus crinitus A few definite sightings at Calakmul. Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus A single definite sighting at Calakmul. Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Seen and heard along Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto, and a few seen and heard at Calakmul.

49 Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata One recorded at Calakmul and three seen together at Coba. Grey-collared Becard Pachyramphus major A female was seen well at Calakmul. Couch s Kingbird, Vigia Chico Road. Tropical Kingbird, Cozumel. Rose-throated Becard Pachyrampus aglaiae Two birds recorded at Xocen were the only sighting. Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis One seen on Cozumel, the race here having much duller underparts. One also seen along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto, and another at Xocen. White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus A few recorded daily at Calakmul. Hormiguero and two at Xocen. Also seen at Mangrove Vireo Vireo pallens A few recorded along the track to Laguna Ocom and the Vigia Chico track, near Felipe Carillo Puerto.Two seen near Rio Lagartos. Cozumel Vireo Vireo bairdii Surprisingly only seen once during our time on Cozumel with a pair showing well near the Presidente Hotel grids. A very smart Vireo. Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons A total of eight logged during the trip at Calakmul, Rio Lagartos, Xocen, Ek Balam and Coba. Philadelphia Vireo Vireo philadelphicus Just one recorded at Ek Balam. Yucatán Vireo Vireo magister Strangely only recorded once throughout the trip when we saw a bird well at El Cedral on Cozumel. Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus ochraceiceps Two birds recorded at Calakmul.

50 Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus A total of 14 logged during the trip at Laguna Ocom, Vigia Chico track, and Calakmul. Yucatán Jay, immatures, Uxmal. Palm Warbler, Cozumel. Yucatán Jay Cyanocorax yucatanicus First seen at Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Then en route to Uxmal. Seen daily around Rio Lagartos, Xocen and Coba. Green Jay Cyanocorax luxuosus Only recorded once when four were seen near the Uxmal ruins. Brown Jay Psilorhinus morio Regularly seen at Vigia Chico track, near Felipe Carillo Puerto. Also Laguna Ocom and Calakmul. Cedar Waxwing Bombycilla cedrorum Just one recorded near the lake at Coba. Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea Large numbers seen over Laguna Ocom near Felipe Carillo Puerto. A few near Uxmal and then seen daily around Rio Lagartos. Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopterysx serripennis Seen in good numbers at Laguna Ocom and at a few other locations but only in flight, so we were unable to check if any were the Yucatán endemic race ridgewayi, a.k.a. Ridgeway s Rough-winged Swallow. We finally saw Ridgeway s birds perched up near Uxmal. Cave Swallow Petrochelidon fulva Seen in large numbers coming in to roost towards dusk at Uxmal ruins. Yucatán Wren Campylorhynchus yucatanicus Seen on two different dates along the San Salvador track, near Rio Lagartos. Spot-breasted Wren Pheugopedius maculipectus First seen along the track to Laguna Ocom, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Seen almost daily at Calakmul and also at Hormiguero.

51 Carolina Wren/White-browed Wren Thryothorus (ludovicianus) albinucha This isolated race of Carolina Wren is probably a separate species. We saw one bird at Calakmul and another at Xocen. House Wren/Cozumel Wren Troglodytes (aedon) beani We finally found three birds along the Presidente grid trails on Cozumel. This distinctive race is often regarded as a separate species, Cozumel Wren. White-bellied Wren Uropsila leucogastra Two recorded on the Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto and then a few noted at both Calakmul and Hormiguero White-breasted Wood Wren Henicorhina leucosticta One recorded at Calakmul and two at Xocen. Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus Just one recorded at Calakmul. Blue-grey Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea About eight of the Cozumel race seen on the Island. A few seen daily around Rio Lagartos. Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea One seen along the Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto and another at Calakmul. Grey Catbird Dumetella carolinensis A few seen on Cozumel and recorded daily at Calakmul. Black Catbird Melanoptila glabrirostris Fairly common on Cozumel and regularly seen. A few recorded along the Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto and at Calakmul. Two seen at Xocen. Black Catbird, Cozumel Island. Tropical Mockingbird, Cozumel. Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus Very common and recorded almost daily. Swainson s Thrush Catharus ustulatus Seen only at Calakmul where a few were noted daily.

52 Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina Seen only at Calakmul where a few were noted daily. Clay-coloured Thrush Turdus grayi One seen at El Cedral, Cozumel was unexpected. Two seen along the Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Scrub Euphonia Euphonia affinis Five birds seen near Uxmal ruins was the only definite sighting. Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla Three birds recorded during the trip. Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorum Just one bird recorded along the Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Northern Waterthrush Parkesia noveboracensis About eight birds recorded during the trip. Blue-winged Warbler Vermivora cyanoptera Three birds recorded on the trip, the first on Cozumel Island. Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia Regularly recorded in forest habitats throughout. Swainson s Warbler Limnothlypis swainsonii One seen well on the ground at an ant swarm along the Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Tennessee Warbler Leiothlypis peregrina Just one recorded at El Cedral, on Cozumel Island. Grey-crowned Yellowthroat Geothlypis poliocephala One seen briefly near Rio Lagartos and one showed very well at the lake at Coba. Kentucky Warbler Geothlypis formosa It was great to finally connect with this species having missed it on previous trips to the Americas. In the end we recorded four birds, all males, the first at an ant swarm along the Vigia Chico Trail, Felipe Carillo Puerto. The others were at Tres Garantias, Calakmul and Hormiguero. The continous chup call given allowed the birds to be tracked as they moved along the forest floor. Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas Eight birds recorded on the trip, the first on Cozumel Island. Hooded Warbler Setophaga citrina Seen regularly, with a total of 12 logged throughout the trip. American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla Common and recorded almost daily in forest habitats. Cape May Warbler Setophaga tigrina Two birds seen. One on Cozumel and another at Ek Balam. Northern Parula Setophaga americana Common and recorded almost daily in forest habitats.

53 Magnolia Warbler Setophaga magnolia Probably the most frequently seen warbler in the forests throughout the trip. Bay-breasted Warbler Setophaga castanea One seen briefly at Ek Balam. American Yellow Warbler Setophaga aestiva Quite a few of the N. American migrant race seen on Cozumel. Just a few more seen at other sites. Mangrove Warbler Setophaga petechia Two seen well in the mangroves at Rio Lagartos. Also Golden Warbler, endemic race on Cozumel seen daily there. Golden Warbler, Cozumel Island Mangrove Warbler, Rio Lagartos Black-throated Blue Warbler Setophaga caerulescens A female seen at Ek Balam was the only sighing. Palm Warbler Setophaga palmarum Common on Cozumel where recorded daily. Just two more seen near Rio Lagartos. Myrtle Warbler Setophaga coronata Two seen near Laguna Ocom, near Felipe Carillo Puerto. One also seen near the lake at Coba. Yellow-throated Warbler Setophaga dominica About ten recorded throughout the trip. Often seen in unusual habitats e.g. hopping around the steps of buildings etc! Prairie Warbler Setophaga discolor A probable seen briefly on Cozumel. Black-throated Green Warbler Setophaga virens Fairly common on the mainland and seen in most taller forest habitats visited. Usually higher in the canopy than some of the other warblers. Yellow-breasted Chat Icteria virens One seen along the Vigia Chico Road, Felipe Carillo Puerto, was the only sighting. Bobolink Dolichonyx oryzivorus One seen at the sewage works on Cozumel was unexpected.

54 Yellow-throated Warbler, Cozumel Island. Myrtle Warbler, near Laguna Ocom. Yellow-billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus Three birds at Coba was our only sighting. Yellow-backed Oriole Icterus chrysater Two birds seen at Calakmul was our only sighting. Orange Oriole Icterus auratus A pair along the track to San Salvador ranch, Rio Lagartos, was our only sighting of this Yucatán endemic. Altamira Oriole Icterus gularis Total of six birds logged during the trip, with records from Vigia Chico track, Tres Garantias, Uxmal and near Rio Lagartos. Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula Just one bird recorded, at Hormiguero. Hooded Oriole Icterus cucullatus Two seen on Cozumel. Two along Vigia Chcio track, and then a few seen daily around Rio Lagartos. Two also recorded at Coba on our last day. Black-cowled Oriole Icterus prosthemelas A male seen along the Vigia Chico track and another male at Xocen. Orchard Oriole Icterus spurious A female seen along the track to San Salvador ranch, Rio Lagartos, and two males at Coba. Red-winged Blackbird Agelaius phoeniceus Just two birds noted at Rio Lagartos. Bronzed Cowbird Molothrus aeneus A flock of about 40 birds noted in a field with cattle at the end of the San Salvador ranch track. Rio Lagartos, was our only sighting. Melodious Blackbird Dives dives A few seen daily at Vigia Chico track, at Calakmul and at Uxmal. A few also noted near Rio Lagartos. Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus Seen regularly in open habitats during the trip.

55 Bananaquit Coereba flaveola Only seen Cozumel where recorded daily. The race is the endemic race caboti. Bananaquit, Cozumel Island. Olive Sparrow Arremonops rufivirgatus One bird seen near Xocen. Green-backed Sparrow Arremonops chloronotus A few noted along the Vigia Chico track, at Calakmul, at Xocen and at Coba. Grey-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata One seen at Hormiguero and two then seen near Xocen. Black-throated Shrike-tanager Lanio aurantius A brief view of a female at Tres Garantias, but Thaïs was the only one to get a satisfactory look. Blue-grey Tanager Thraupis episcopus Just two birds noted at Coba. Yellow-winged Tanager Thraupis abbas Two to three seen at Coba was the only sighting. Black-headed Saltator Saltator atriceps A few noted along the Vigia Chico track and two more seen at Ek Balam. White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola Seen daily on Cozumel with a few noted on the mainland, near Tres Garantias and at Coba. Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivaceus Seen daily on Cozumel with a few noted near Rio Lagartos and near Xocen. Western Spindalis Spindalis zena Just the one bird, a male, seen on Cozumel, after some searching. The race here is endemic.

56 Western Spindalis, Cozumel Island. White-collared Seedeater, Cozumel Island. Summer Tanager Piranga rubra A few seen on Cozumel with a male seen at Calakmul. Rose-throated Tanager Piranga roseogularis Three sightings, all females, on Cozumel, at Calakmul and at Hormiguero. Rose-throated Tanager, female, Hormiguero Summer Tanager, female, Calakmul Red-crowned Ant Tanager Habia rubica A few definite sightings at ant swarms, but the following species appeared more common. Red-throated Ant Tanager Habia fuscicauda Seen fairly regularly in forest habitats, mostly at ant swarms. Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus lodovicianus Just one bird seen at a clearing along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto. Grey-throated Chat Granatellus sallaei A male and two females seen along the Vigia Chico track, Felipe Carillo Puerto, were the only sightings.