Birding in Mexico. The Yucatan Peninsular. Nick Watmough 1 September 13 th - 20 th P a g e. Contact:

Transcription

1 Birding in Mexico The Yucatan Peninsular Nick Watmough 1 September 13 th - 20 th Contact: nick.watmough@gmail.com/ P a g e

2 Introduction This report details a seven-day solo trip to the Yucatán peninsula in September It came about as I had booked ten days leave in September with a view to taking a last-minute birding trip either in the UK or overseas. The late availability of a return flight from Stansted to Cancun for < 300 was just too good to miss, not least because the Yucatán has plenty of overlap with North America, but at the same time would provide me with an introduction to the Neotropics. Moreover, I had always wanted to see some of the Mayan archaeological sites. Once my mind was made up I was assisted in the rather frantic last minute planning by Sue Bryan who had done a two-week trip to the Yucatán in August 2008 and John Geeson who lent me the necessary literature. In the event trip was straightforward; the roads around the Yucatán are good and straight (although the frequent topes extreme speed bumps take some getting used to) making for reasonable travel times between sites. In a week, I managed to see 140 species many of which were new or I had not seen for a number of years. Itinerary 13 th Sept Morning flight from Stansted to Cancun, evening drive to Felipe Carrillo Puerto 14 th Sept All day on the Vigia Chico Road overnight in Felipe Carrillo Puerto 15 th Sept Morning on the Vigia Chico Road leaving late morning for Xipujil, overnight Rio Bec Dreams 16 th Sept Calakmul, overnight Rio Bec Dreams 17 th Sept Morning RioBec Dreams and Becan, afternoon drive to Uxmal. 18 th Sept Morning Uxmal early afternoon drive to Celestún, evening boat trip on Ria Celestún, overnight Celestún. 19 th Sept Most of day around Celestún, late afternoon drive to Chichén Itzá 20 th Sept Morning Chichén Itzá, late morning drive to Cancun to catch afternoon flight 21 st Sept Arrive Stansted Flights The Stansted to Cancun charter flight was booked with Thomson airlines about three weeks before the trip at a cost of 270 including hold luggage (20 kg) and meals. Thomson operate Dreamliners on this route making for a very comfortable journey. Climate As one might expect for the time of year it was very hot and humid with temperatures >32 C most days that only fell to ~20 C at night. However apart from a few light showers and a thunderstorm the afternoon I arrived in Uxmal it was dry and I only lost a couple of hours of birding to rain. Birding Sites and Guiding I booked no guiding in advance and followed Steve Howell s Where to watch birds in Mexico book which has some excellent maps and generally good advice for all birders needs. However, it is a little dated. Specifically, it lacks information on Calakmul and probably should not include the archaeological zone at Chichén Itzá as a birding site as all the edge habitat is overrun by the traders. In Celestún I paid for a three-hour guided boat trip on the Ria Celestún that went both North and South of the bridge (the tourist boats only go Bird Island) and I had some ad hoc help from the Celestún Peregrines. 2 P a g e

3 Habitat Much of the Yucatán Peninsula is covered with trees and scrub which is generally inaccessible except where tracks or roads intersect the forest. Birding at the Mayan temple edges was good at Becan and Uxmal with easy access to the forest edge, but sadly Chichén Itzá is no longer that good for birding due to tourist pressures. The ruins at Calakmul are less manicured, but there is a good system of hard surfaced trails connecting the artefacts which makes forest birding fairly easy. Celestún is easy to get around and access to both the dune system and the mangroves/lagoons is as described in Howell s guide. Logistics I pre-booked a car to be collected from Mex Rent-a-Car at Cancun airport using Holiday Autos at a cost of 60 for the week. This gave me a VW Gol which is a four door manual hatchback with a petrol engine (not unlike a Polo) with air conditioning. I had no problem finding Pemex gas stations, usually with a convenience store attached, anywhere on my circuit. Navigation with the help of Sue s 8-year-old road atlas was straightforward and whilst no new roads are being built many existing routes (e.g. Xpujil to Uxmal) are being significantly upgraded. Accommodation All accommodation was booked in advance using Booking.com Felipe Carrillo Puerto Hotel Turquesa Maya 64 for two nights. A basic comfortable hotel. Rooms have air conditioning and there is WiFi in the lobby. The restaurant provides inexpensive evening meals from a very limited menu Calakmul Rio Bec Dreams at Km 142, on route 186 west of Xpujil 80 for two nights in a very comfortable cabin included breakfast. Excellent evening meals and a well-stocked bar, but no WiFi. The hotel is owned by a very helpful Canadian couple who are familiar with the needs of birders; early starts and packed meals on request which is very helpful as it is a two hour drive each way to the ruins at Calakmul. Uxmal My booking was for the La Casa del Mago a B&B close to the archaeological site at Uxmal at 35 per night including breakfast. In the event it was closed and I was directed to the reception of the adjacent Hacienda Uxmal and given a free upgrade. The Hacienda is a generously staffed 5* hotel with big air-conditioned rooms set around two swimming pools in mature grounds. I am pleased that I was not paying the full rate as my room had seen better days and dinner in the hotel restaurant was relatively expensive, but unexceptional. Celestún Posada Lilia is comfortable if slightly run down family run hotel in the centre of Celestún. The family couldn t do enough to help me with parking and making sure that I had the correct WiFi code. Rooms are air conditioned with plenty of hot water and it is a short walk to the main square where there is a supermarket and plenty of restaurants. Quite good value at 26 per night excluding breakfast. Chichén Itzá Hotel Dolores Alba Chichén is at Km 122 on the Merida-Cancun road about 2km from the entrance to the archaeological site. It is a rather gloomy but functional motel with free WiFi and an adequate restaurant attached. Apart from the air conditioning in my room not working it was absolutely fine for a one-night stay and cost ca 30. Money I took ca 6000 Mexican Pesos to get me started and topped up from ATMs as required as not all hotels e.g. Rio Bec Dreams and Posada Lilia accepted credit cards. 3 P a g e

4 Diary September 13 th My flight arrived in Cancun on time and apart from a long wait for passport control the other formalities including picking up the hire car were straightforward. First birds in the parking lot include Tropical Kingbird, Tropical Mockingbird and Great Kiskadee before heading South on Route 307. The drive to Felipe Carrillo Puerto should have taken just over 2.5 hours but in the end, was nearer four as I got held up in stationary traffic caused by an overturned lorry. Consequently, I arrived after dark but managed to find the Hotel Turquesa Maya quite quickly, got checked in had dinner and went to sleep. September 14 th Although I was up at dawn it was hard to get out of the hotel as there was plenty of bird activity in the trees opposite my balcony including, Eastern Kingbird, Blue-gray Tanager and the only Yellow-winged Tanagers of the trip and plus several species; Social Flycatcher, Ruddy Ground Dove and Hooded Oriole that would become familiar over the coming days. View from the balcony of the Hotel Turquesa Maya. Blue-Gray Tanager (left) and Social Flycatcher (right) I drove across a very quiet Felipe Carrillo Puerto and easily found the start of the Vigia Chico Road a good quality dirt road that leads into the Sian Ka an reserve. I probably spent too much time in the Milpas and secondary forest at the start of the road, but managed to find Yellow-tailed Oriole, Olivaceous Woodcreeper and Yucatan Woodpecker. Further down the road a feeding party included American Redstart and Hooded Warbler mixed in with Lesser Greenlet and Red-throated Ant Tanagers, whilst Northern Waterthrushes were common along the road edge. I headed further down the road and at around 5km the tracks leading to a couple of the small lakes referred to in the Howell book where I came across White-collared Seedeater. A nearby clearing yielded Roadside Hawk, Aztec Parakeet and White-bellied Wren. The Vigia Chico Road. The road extends for 32 km from Felipe Carrillo Puerto through good quality forest to the entrance to the Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka an 4 P a g e

5 After lunch in a roadside café at the start of the road (opposite the college) where I picked up Melodious Blackbird I headed back down the road and explored some more side trails. Birding was hard going but after heading further down the road, I manged to find Spotbreasted Wren and Collared Aracari before I gave up for the day. Unfortunately, and perhaps due to tiredness, I got lost going across town and apparently committed a traffic infringement and when I finally parked outside the hotel found myself face to face with a couple of motorcycle traffic cops who told me that it was my final warning and if I repeated the offence (and I am still not clear what it was) I would face a hefty fine. I smiled and thanked them before heading for a shower and dinner. Birds of the Vigia Chico Road. Clockwise from top left: Aztec Parakeet, Roadside Hawk (juv), Spotbreasted Wren and Yellow-tailed Oriole September 15 th After checking out of the hotel the morning was spent birding the Vigia Chico Road again. The start of the road was particularly birdy with a vocal Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Clay Coloured Thrush and a pair of Ladder-backed Woodpeckers. A Bluecrowned Motmot proved very elusive and I headed further down the road stopping to admire a Caribbean Dove that was blocking my progress. Revisiting the side trails that led to the lakes I managed to find both White-bellied and Spot-breasted Wrens along with Black-headed Saltator and Grey-headed Chat. I stopped birding around 11.00hrs and stocked up on fuel and water at a Pemex gas station on the edge of town before heading South on Route 307 to Bacalar where I stopped and enjoyed an excellent lunch in a roadside cafe. I carried on South before turning West on to Route 186 which initially runs parallel to the Rio Hondo (Mexican-Belize border). On this stretch of road, I encountered a party of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks perched on a fence line and a very obliging Laughing Falcon. 5 P a g e

6 Route 186 Roadside Birds. Black-bellied Whistling Duck (left) and Laughing Falcon (right) Continuing along Route 186 I arrived at Rio Bec Dreams late afternoon and after checking in birded the grounds where the highlight was a party of Yucatan Jays. After an excellent dinner and a couple of ice cold beers I negotiated a packed lunch and an early morning exit from the compound for the next day s trip to Calakmul. Great Cussacow. One of the highlights of my trip to Calakmul September 16 th Despite missing my alarm and a later than planned start I still managed to be first down the entrance track to Calakmul. NB you need to pay twice; once after you turn off Route 185 to the local villager who own the land and then again after ca 20km to enter the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. This proved worthwhile with sightings of both Ocellated Turkey (including a female with a brood of part grown chicks) and a Great Curassow along with Collared Peccary and Gray Fox. Unfortunately, there were two minibus loads of rather garrulous tourists just behind me which made stopping for birds difficult and was clearly going to make birding the trails challenging to say the least. As I entered the archaeological zone two King Vultures soared overhead and a quiet side trail away from the other visitors yielded Red-eyed and Yellowthroated Vireos, and an eyelevel Northern Bentbill. Further down the trail a Smokybrown Woodpecker played hard to get and couple of Brown Jays alerted to me to the presence of a superb Keel-billed Toucan. New birds came thick and fast with Northern Barred Woodcreeper, White-breasted Wood Wren and Whitethroated Thrush. Climbing one of the lower structures to look into Calakmul Woodcreepers. Northern Barred Woodcreeper (left) and Ivory-billed Woodcreeper (right) 6 P a g e

7 the canopy allowed me views of a pair of Red-legged Honeycreepers. By now it was late morning and activity had slowed but even as I headed back to the parking lot for lunch I encountered a party of Scrub Euphonia, a Blue-winged Warbler and a couple of Blue Buntings. Immediately after lunch birding was still a little slow, but it picked during the course of the afternoon as I explored more of the ruins with another Keel-billed Toucan and Northern Barred Woodcreeper. A group of Yellow-throated Euphonia kept my interest going but a partial view of a Gartered Trogan was just frustrating. A more open area held a very obliging party of Ivory-billed Woodcreepers. Starting a slow walk back to the car I picked up a Black and White Warbler whilst some low understory adjacent to a trail held another White-breasted Wood Wren and a couple of Green-backed Sparrows. The best was yet to come as I walked along the final trail of the day another Great Curassow crossed the path in front of me. After I had allowed it to pass I walked a further 100 m only to be surprised by some crashing around in the canopy which turned out not to be a monkey but two Crested Guans; a fine way to end the day. Sadly, I had to leave at around 4pm to ensure driving back in daylight. The return journey to Rio Bec Dreams was largely uneventful and I decided to skip a visit to the bat cave (a few km west of RBD) as there was a police presence (which I discovered later in the evening was quite innocuous) and headed directly for a shower, cold beers and dinner. Some typical rainforest species of Calakmul. Clockwise from top left: Keel-billed Toucan, Pale-billed Woodpecker, White-throated Thrush and Crested Guan 7 P a g e

8 Calakmul. Left; 45 m high and with a base of 120m 2 Structure 2 is one of the largest temple-pyramids in the Mayan World the apparent top is in fact a platform half way up! Right; Structure 1 which appears to be higher than Structure 2, but that is because it is built on a low hill. September 17 th - A more relaxed start after the previous day s exertions with some excellent pre-breakfast birding around Rio Bec Dreams that included Yucatan Parrot, Green breasted Mango, Wedge-tailed Sabrewing and Yellow-Green Vireo. Birding the grounds of Rio Bec Dreams. Clockwise from top left: my very comfortable cabin, Wedgetailed Sabrewing, Yucatan Parrot and Yucatan Jay (a white-headed first winter bird) After enjoying a proper breakfast, I checked out and headed for nearby Becan which is just off Route 186 ca 5 km west of Xpujil. Becan is a very quiet well maintained archaeological site with a good forest edge that in just over an hour yielded a nice selection of species including Green Jay and Golden-olive Woodpecker 8 P a g e

9 . Becan. Top left; the ruins at Becan are very quiet with good forest edge. Bottom left; the view looking south over the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul from the top of one of the pyramids. Right; Golden-olive Woodpecker After a brief stop in Xpujil to use the ATM I headed North on route 269 through the northern section of the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul towards Xmabén and Hopelchén. Beyond Hopelchén the road (which has become Route 261) heads North though some agricultural areas where large numbers of Barn Swallows had been grounded by late afternoon thunderstorms and he commonest birds were White-winged Dove and Blue-black Grassquit. After about four hours I arrived at Kabah a small Mayan site about 20km South of Uxmal. After spending an hour sheltering from a very heavy thunderstorm the site closed for the evening and with the heaving rain continuing I headed North to Uxmal to find my accommodation. 9 P a g e

10 Altamira Oriole. Easily seen in around Uxmal September 18 th Before breakfast I birded the grounds of the hotels outside the archaeological site at Uxaml. There was plenty of activity in the early morning sun mostly involving familiar species but some less so for example Masked Tityra and Altamira Oriole. The agricultural land at the rear of the Hacienda was less productive with only a telegraph wire full of Barn Swallows and a party of Groovebilled Anis to show for my efforts. After breakfast, I checked out and re-parked the car in the main carpark. Uxmal is a significant and very popular Mayan site that is efficiently managed as one might hope for a site of such significance. The entrance to Uxmal is dominated by the famous Pyramid of the Magician, just one of a number of well-preserved structures on this impressive site which helps to dilute the crowds. Consequently, it was not difficult to find some quiet forest edges which although productive did not yield much in the way of new species other than a lovely Rose-throated Becard. However, that was more than made up for by the quality of the architecture and the Black Iguanas that bask on the warm stones of the ruins. After about three hours I felt that I had just about done the site justice and headed for Celestún. Some Uxmal Highlights. Clockwise from top left: The pyramid of the Magician as viewed from the Governor s Palace, Black Iguanas are found loafing on many of the structures, Rose-throated Becard. Masked Tityra The journey to Celestún was fairly straightforward despite it being a little slow getting across the town of Uman and I arrived early afternoon. In search of something to eat I stopped a beachside bar and was very fortunate that amongst the locals enjoying Sunday lunch washed down with plenty of cold beer was one English speaker who helped me order food and left me to be looked after by the waiters. 10 P a g e

11 After a simple lunch of fish and salad I headed to Parador Turístico Celestún which is next to the dock where the boats leave for trips on the Ria Celestún. It was my very good fortune to meet the same English speaking guy that I had met in the bar earlier! Having established that I was a serious birder he advised against taking a regular tourist boat to Bird Island (which is North of the road bridge) and suggested that he arrange a custom tour going North and South into the mangroves to maximise by chances of seeing American Flamingos and two harder to see species - Bare-throated Tiger and Boat-billed Herons. We agreed a price ( 60) and a guide and I was ready for immediate departure. Herons of the Ria Celestún. Left to right: Great Blue Heron, Reddish Egret and Roseate Spoonbill We left around 4pm and got back after dark on what proved to a memorable excursion. First, we headed South of the road bridge to explore the mangroves and shallow backwaters of the Ria Celestún some of which can only be accessed by transferring to a kayak. This allowed us close approach in the soft evening light to the large flocks of American Flamingos and a range of other water birds including Black-necked Stilts, Wood Stork, White Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill and six other species of heron. After about an hour and a half we headed North passing under the road bridge and got to Bird Island just before dusk. This small well vegetated island simply heaves under the weight of a huge mixed colony of Double-crested Cormorants, Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds. Leaving the island as the sun was setting we encountered as Osprey and big flocks of egrets and ibises heading to roost. There was still just enough light for one final stop at a boardwalk in the mangroves to look at a Bare-throated Tiger Heron containing a near full grown chick before heading back to the quay where I discovered both Yellow-crowned Night and Bare-throated Tiger Herons fishing under the floodlights. It was now very late and I was relieved when my guide offered to show me to my hotel where I was soon checked in and heading to the nearby town square to enjoy an cold beer and a burrito stuffed with freshly barbequed meat and chilli sauce. 11 P a g e

12 Night Fishermen of the Ria Celestún. Left; Yellow-crowned Night Heron Right; Bare-throated Tiger Heron September 19 th The morning was spent birding Celestún harbour which apart from a few Laughing Gulls was not very exciting. Heading South into the dune system I soon managed to locate a few key species including Mangrove Vireo, Yucatan Wren and Mexican Sheartail. Two raptors perched on top of low mangroves turned out to be Crested Caracara and Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture. Other characteristic birds of this habitat included Whitelored Gnatcatcher, Vermillion Flycatcher and Mangrove Cuckoo. A couple of Lesser Nighthawks were flushed from underfoot whilst Common Tody Flycatcher was less expected. One shallow lagoon on the seaward side of the system held three Spotted Sandpipers but unfortunately a gathering of 30+ Cabot s Terns with 2 Royal Terns was too distant for photography in the strong sun. Birds of the dune scrub South of Celestun. Clockwise from top left: Mangrove Vireo, Vermillion Flycatcher, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture and Mexican Sheartail. 12 P a g e

13 The habitat North of Celestún is very similar and holds broadly the same species so after about an hour I headed back into town and went for a coffee and something to eat at the Parador Turístico. After lunch I took a look at the lagoons across the road and was enjoying a close Little Blue Heron and a small flock of Mangrove Swallows when three young guys on motorbikes pulled up and asked what was I doing?. When I explained that I was looking at birds they wanted to know more and asked which species. When they asked if Mangrove Swallow was a lifer? I knew I was OK! They introduced themselves as Wilbert Caamal and the Peregrines Birding Club of Celestún and we agreed to meet up in twenty minutes so that they could help me get better looks at Mexican Sheartail and Yucatan Wren. Having located the guys ready with their binoculars and changed into birding tee-shirts we headed off for an Birding with the Celestún Peregrines enjoyable couple of hours in the dunes and lagoons North of town. Highlights included a Mexican Sheartail on the nest, several Yucatan Wrens in the thickets and a good selection of waders on the lagoons; Least Sandpiper, Western Sandpiper, Willet and Semipalmated Plover. Time was up too soon and around 3.30pm I dropped the Peregrines back in town said our goodbyes and I had to head off for Chichén Itzá. I followed Wilbert s directions to Meridan where I had to navigate the rush hour and arrived at my motel in Chichén Itzá shortly after dark. September 20 th I was up promptly for breakfast and an early check out so that I could be at the archaeological zone when it opened at 8am. Although there were only one or two tourists there were simply 100s of local traders heading onto the site to set up their souvenir stalls. It Chichén Itzá. El Castillo before the tourists arrive and Greyish Saltator was nice to see this classic Mayan site before the busloads from Cancun arrived. There were birds, including Cinnamon Hummingbird and Greyish Saltator but it was hard going. By mid-morning the site was full of tourists and vendors and since I was not seeing any new birds and feeling slightly overwhelmed I decided to purchase a couple of gifts and leave for Cancun airport. It was at this point that I nearly managed to wreck what had been a very successful trip by taking the old road back to Cancun which is painfully slow and does not have any signage for the airport rather than the toll motorway. The outcome was I got lost and arrived at the airport less than an hour before my flight managed to go to the wrong terminal and then discovered that I had mislaid my debit card in Celestún. Thanks to the kindness of the Thomson staff I made the flight and very fortunately no damage was done to my bank account. September 21 st A slightly late arrival into Stansted. Fortunately, after all the excitement of catching my inbound flight it was a relief to discover my baggage had made it onto the plane and to have an uneventful drive back to Norwich. 13 P a g e

14 Systematic List Black-bellied Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis) - A group of 10 in a roadside wetland off Route /9 Plain Chacalaca (Ortalis vetula) 2 ; common on the approach to Calakmul 16/9; several in dune scrub North of Celestún19/9 Crested Guan (Penelope purpurascens) - 2 Calakmul 16/9. Great Curassow (Crax rubra) - 1 crossed the entrance road to Calakmul morning of 16/6 with another around the ruins late afternoon. Ocellated Turkey (Meleagris ocellata) - Easily seen on the entrance road to Calakmul and around the ruins 16/9 American Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) 200+ in the Ria Celestún backwaters 18/9; 20+ Celestún and 80+ North of town 19/9 Wood Stork (Mycteria americana) 1 Ria Celestún 18/9 and 2 South of Celestún 19/9 Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificans) Common around Celestún 18-19/11 Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) North of Celestún 19/11 Double-crested Cormorant (Phalacrocorax auritus) - Common around Celestún 18-19/11 Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga) - 1 Ria Celestún 18/9 American White Pelican (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos) - 5 North of Celestún 19/11 Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis) Common around Celestún 18-19/11 Bare-throated Tiger Heron (Tigrisoma mexicanum) A nest with fully grown young on the East side of Ria Celestún and 1 fishing under floodlights back at the quay 18/9 Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias) - 1 Ria Celestún 18/9 Great Egret (Ardea alba) - 10 Ria Celestún 18/9 Snowy Egret (Egretta thula) - 1 in a roadside wetland off Route /9; very common Ria Celestún 18/9 Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerula) - 3 Ria Celestún 18/9; 1 Celestún 19/9 Reddish Egret (Egretta rufescens) - 5 Ria Celestún 18/9 and 3 around Celestún 19/9 Green Heron (Butorides virescens) - 1 in a roadside wetland off Route /9; 5+ Ria Celestún 18/9 Yellow-crowned Night Heron (Nyctanassa violacea) - 1 on the quay at Ria Celestún on the evening of 18/9 White Ibis (Eudocimus albus) Many noted around Celestún 18-19/9 Roseate Spoonbill (Platalea ajaja) - 2 Ria Celestún 18/9 Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus) - Common throughout Turkey Vulture (Coragyps aura) - Common throughout Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus) - Several seen around Celestún 19/9 King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa) - 2 Calakmul 16/9. Osprey (Pandion halietus) - 1 Ria Celestún 18/9 Common Black Hawk (Buteogallus anthracinus) - 1 between Chichén Itzá and Cancun 20/9 Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostis) - 1 Grey Hawk (Buteo plagiatus) - 1 between Chichén Itzá and Cancun 20/9 Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus) A few noted in the Ria Celestún backwaters 18/9 and North of Celestún 19/9 Semipalmated Plover (Charadrius semipalmatus) - 1 North of Celestún 19/9 Killdeer (Charadrius vociferous) -1 South of Celestún 19/9 Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius) Several noted around Celestún 18-19/9 Willet (Tringa semipalmata) - 6 North of Celestún 19/9 Least Sandpiper (Calidris minutilla) 20+ North of Celestún 19/9 Western Sandpiper (Calidris mauri) - 7 North of Celestún 19/9 Laughing Gull (Leucophaeus atricilla) Common around Celestún 18-19/9 Royal Tern (Thalasseus maximus) - 2 on saltpans South of Celestún19/9 Cabot s Tern (Thalasseus acuflavida) on saltpans South of Celestún19/9 Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) Small numbers noted throughout Red-billed Pigeon (Patagioenas flavirostris) -1 Chichén Itzá 20/9 Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto) noted around Celestún town 18-19/9 Common Ground Dove (Columbina passerina) Noted North of Celestún 19/11 Ruddy Ground Dove (Columbina talpacoti) Common throughout White-tipped Dove (Lepotila verrauxi) - 1 Uxmal 18/9 Caribbean Dove (Lepotila jamaicensis) - 1 White-winged Dove (Zenaida asiatica) Very common throughout Mangrove Cuckoo (Coccyzus minor) - 1 in the dunes South of Celestún 19/11 Groove-billed Ani (Crotophaga sulcirostris) Few at Uxmal, Celestún & Chichén Itzá 18-20/9 Lesser Nighthawk (Chordeiles acutipennis) - 1 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 14/9; 2 in the dunes South of Celestún 19/11 14 P a g e

15 Common Nighthawk (Chordeiles minor) - 1 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 15/9 Vaux s Swift (Chaetura vauxi) - Noted at VCR 14/9; Kabah 17/9 and Celestún 19/9. Green-breasted Mango (Anthracothorax prevostii) - 1 Rio Bec Dreams17/9 Mexican Sheartail (Doricha eliza) - Noted in the dune scrub around Celestún 19/9 Wedge-tailed Sabrewing (Campylopterus curvipennis) - 1 Rio Bec Dreams17/9 White-bellied Emerald (Amazilla candida) - 4 Cinnamon Hummingbird (Amazilia rutila) - 1 Chichén Itzá 20/9 Gartered Trogon (Trogon caligatus) 1 Calakmul 16/9 Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus coeruliceps) 1 VCR 15/9 Collared Aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus) - 1 Keel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus) 2 Calakmul 16/9 Yucatan Woodpecker (Melanerpes pygmaeus) -1 Golden-fronted Woodpecker (Melanerpes aurifrons) 1 ; very common around Uxmal 18/9; noted Chichén Itzá 20/9 Ladder-backed Woodpecker (Picoides scalaris) - 2 VCR 15/9 Smoky-brown Woodpecker (Veniliornis fumigatus) - 1 Calakmul 16/6 Golden-olive Woodpecker (Piculus rubiginosus) - 1 Becan 17/9 Pale-billed Woodpecker (Camphephilus guatamalensis) - A pair Calakmul 16/9 Crested Caracara (Caracara cheriway) - 1 Bird Island, Ria Celestún 18/9 and 1 in dunes South of Celestún 19/9 Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans) 1 seen from Route /9 White-fronted Parrot (Amazona albifrons) Brief or distant views of many large flocks on Amazona parrots especially in the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul, but White-fronted specifically identified from Route 186 West of Rio Bec dreams 16/9 Yellow-lored (Yucatan) Parrot (Amazona xanthlora) - definitely identified at Rio Bec Dreams 17/9 Olive-throated (Aztec) Parakeet (Eupsittula nana) Common and noted at each of the sites visited. Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus) - 1 ; 1 Calakmul 16/9; 2 Uxmal 18/9 Northern Barred Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae) - 1 Calakmul 16/9 Ivory-billed Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus flavigaster) - 3 Calakmul 16/9; 4 Becan 17/9 Northern Bentbill (Oncostoma cinereigulare) 1 Calakmul 16/9 Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum) - 1 South of Celestún 19/9 Tropical Pewee (Contopus cinereus) 1-2 seen at most sites - all the Pewees seen were silent and were either this species or possibly migrant Eastern Wood Pewee (Contopus viriens) Yellow-bellied Flycatcher (Empidonax flaviventris) -1 Calakmul 16/9 Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus) Several noted in the dunes around Celestún 19/9 Dusky-capped Flycatcher (Myiarchus tuberculifer) - 1 VCR 15/9 Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus) Most Kingbirds were silent and were either this or the following species. Definitely recorded as follows: 2 Cancun 13/9; several Uxmal 18/9 Couch's Kingbird (Tyrannus couchii) See above - definitely recorded as follows: 2 VCR 14/9 Eastern Kingbird (Tyrannus tyrannus) -1 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 14/9 Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua) - 3 Calakmul 16/9 Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis) Common throughout Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus) Common throughout Masked Tityra (Tityra semifasciata) - 2 Uxmal 18/9 Rose-throated Becard (Pacyramphus aglaiae) 1 Uxmal 18/9 Mangrove Vireo (Vireo pallens) - Several noted around Celestún 19/9 Yellow-throated Vireo (Vireo flavifrons) - 1 Calakmul 16/9 Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus) 1 VCR 15/9; several Calakmul 16/9 Yellow-Green Vireo (Vireo flavoviridis) - 2 Rio Bec Dreams 17/9 Lesser Greenlet (Pachysylvia decurtata) - 1 Brown Jay (Psilorhinus morio) - Easily seen around Calakmul 16/9 Green Jay (Cyanocorax yncas) - 5+ Becan 17/9 15 P a g e

16 Yucatan Jay (Cyanocorax yucatanicus) Rio Bec Dreams 15/9 and thereafter common in the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul and around Celestún Yucatan Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ridgwayi) Small numbers noted thoughout Tree Swallow (Tachycineta bicolor) - Noted at Celestún 19/9 Mangrove Swallow (Tachycineta albilinea) - 6 Celestún 19/9 Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) - Noted throughout with large numbers grounded by rain in the agricultural areas North of Hopelchén 17/9 Cave Swallow (Peterochelidon fulva) Easy to see at Uxaml with small numbers noted elsewhere White-bellied Wren (Uropsila leucogastra) - 1 VCR 14-15/9 Yucatan Wren (Campylorhynchus yucatanicus) - Several seen in the dune scrub around Celestún 19/9 Spot-breasted Wren (Thryothorus maculipectus) - 1 VCR 14-15/9 Blue-gray Gnatcacher (Polioptila caerulea) - 1 VCR14/9; 1 Uxmal, 18/9; noted Celestún 19/9 White-lored Gnatcatcher (Polioptila albiloris) Several seen in the dune scrub around Celestún 19/9 White-breasted Wood-wren (Henicorhina leucosticte) 1 Calakmul 16/9 Clay-coloured Thrush (Turdus grayi) noted at VCR and Rio Bec Dreams 15/9; common around Uxmal 18/9 White-throated Thrush (Turdus assimilis) - 1 juv Calakmul 16/9 Tropical Mockingbird (Mimus gilvus) Common throughout Northern Waterthrush (Parkesia noveboracensis) - Common in all suitable habitat with >30 counted along VCR 14-15/9 Blue-winged Warbler (Vermivora cyanoptera) 1 Calakmul 16/9 Black and White Warbler (Mniotilta varia) 1 Calakmul 16/9 Kentucky Warbler (Geothlypis formosa) 1 Hooded Warbler (Setophaga citrina) - Noted at both and Calakmul 16/9 American Redstart (Setophaga ruticilla) - 1 Yellow Warbler (Setophaga petechia) - 2 noted in the dunes around Celestún 19/9 Blue-grey Tanager (Thraupis episcopus) - 1 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 14/9; 4 Rio Bec Dreams 17/9 Yellow-winged Tanager (Thraupis abbas) - 2 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 14/9 Red-legged Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus) - A pair Calakmul 16/9 Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina) Common in the agricultural areas North of Hopelchén 17/9 White-collared Seedeater (Sporophila torqueola) 1-2 VCR 14-15/9; 6 Rio Bec Dreams 17/9 Black-headed Saltator (Saltator atriceps) - 2 VCR 15/9 Greyish Saltator (Saltator coerulescens) - 1 Chichén Itzá 20/9 Green-backed Sparrow (Arremonops chloronotus) - 2 Calakmul 16/9 Red-throated Ant-tanager (Habia fuscicauda) 2/3 Northern Cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis) 1 Gray-throated Chat (Granatellus sallaei) - 1 VCR 15/9 Blue Bunting (Cyanocompsa parellina) - 2 Calakmul 16/9 Melodious Blackbird (Dives dives) - 1 VCR 14/9; 2 Uxmal 18/9. Great-tailed Grackle (Quiscalus mexicanus) Common throughout Bronzed Cowbird (Molothrus aeneus) - Noted only at Chichén Itzá 20/9 Hooded Oriole (Icterus cucullatus) - 1 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 14/9; 1 VCR 15/9; noted around Celestún 19/9. Yellow-tailed Oriole (Icterus mesomelas) 4 Altamira Oriole (Icterus gularis) Uxmal 18/9 Scrub Euphonia (Euphonia affinis) Calakmul 16/9; 2 Uxmal18/9 Yellow-throated Euphonia (Euphonia hirundinacea) - 2 Calakmul 16/9 16 P a g e