Puebla, Mexico City and Malinalco: Jewels of Colonial Art

Transcription

1 Puebla, Mexico City and Malinalco: Jewels of Colonial Art January 30 th to February 10 th, 2019 Travel with Conexiones and experience a rare opportunity to explore the three cities of Mexico City, Puebla, and Malinalco with Spanish Colonial Arts Historian and author, Dr. Donna Pierce. The trip includes private and personalized tours of historical sites, museums and a private collection. Donna will guide us through colonial Mexico starting with five days in the historic city of Puebla, making day trips to places such as Huejotzingo, Calpan, Cholula, and Cacaxtla. We will then take a chartered bus to the town of Malinalco where we will discover both pre-hispanic and colonial sites. The remaining five days will be spent exploring Mexico City, its history, culture, and art.

2 Day One Puebla Wednesday, January 30 Albuquerque to Houston 12:00 pm 3:15 pm Houston to Puebla - 6:15 pm - 8:32 pm Arrival and transfer to hotel - Overnight in Puebla Overnight at Hotel NH Centro Histórico Day Two Puebla Thursday, January 31 In the morning we will take a walking tour of the colonial center of Puebla. Our stops include the baroque Cathedral completed in 1649 with its altar screen designed by the famous Spanish artist Juan Martínez Montañés, and chapel paintings by Cristóbal Villalpando; the beautiful Biblioteca Palafoxiana, the oldest library in the Americas which contains more than 46,000 antique volumes; and the Capilla del Rosario in Santo Domingo church where gilded stucco work covers the walls and ceiling making it the quintessential example of exuberant Mexican baroque architecture. After the tour we will transfer by bus to the Angelópolis neighborhood of Puebla to visit the new Museo Internacional del Barroco. Designed by the team of 2013 Pritzker Architecture Prize winner Toyo Ito, the museum for art, literature, music, and fashion celebrates the grandeur and drama of the 17th and 18th century. (Breakfast, Lunch) Overnight at Hotel NH Centro Histórico Biblioteca Palafoxiana Day Three Puebla Friday, February 1 In the morning we will head out of Puebla to visit the town of Cholula and its archaeological site. It is the largest pyramid in the New World, as well as the largest pyramid known to exist in the world today. The pyramid stands 180 feet above the surrounding plain, and in its final form it measured 1,480 feet by 1,480 feet. In 1519, Cholula s population had reached 100,000, Cortés, having made friends with the Tlaxcalans, traveled here at Moctezuma s request. Aztec warriors set an ambush, but unfortunately for them, the Tlaxcalans tipped off Cortés about the plot and the Spanish struck first.

3 Within one day they killed 6,000 Cholulans before the Tlaxcalans looted the city. We will visit the pre-columbian archaeological site and then proceed to visit ex-convento of San Gabriel Archangel. The cornerstone of this Franciscan monastery was set in The church was dedicated in 1552, but construction continued well past this date. The most unique feature of the complex is the Capilla Real, a structure that was built and maintained by the indigenous people of the region. Reminiscent of open-sided Muslim mosques particularly that in Córdoba, Spain the interior contains nine aisles, each with seven bays, separated by columns. Originally the bays had wooden artesonado ceilings (like those used later in New Mexico). These were replaced in the 17 th century by parallel barrel vaults that collapsed and in turn they were replaced by tiled domes in the 18th century. We will continue to the beautiful ex-convento de San Andres in Calpan. The remote village of Calpan (pop. 8,000 elev. 8,235 FASL) is reached by a winding road, amid walnut groves in the foothills of the Popocatepetl volcano (elev. 17,719 FASL). The former Franciscan convent of San Andres dates back from 1548 and it has a large plaza or atrium, surrounded by walls with posas (chapels) at the corners which have some the most ornate indigenous carvings in Mexico. The large plaza design followed that of many native ceremonial sites. Huejotzingo Our last stop is a visit to the village of Huejotzingo and the large 16 th- century Franciscan monastery of San Miguel Archangel with its fortress church combining Moorish, Gothic and Renaissance influences. The convent is full of early colonial fresco paintings. A late Renaissance altar screen in the nave was commissioned not by the friars but by the Indians of the village in 1586 who personally contracted with the best Flemish and Spanish artists from Mexico City. This is one of the earliest mission churches in Mexico and illustrates the format used later in New Mexico. Most Franciscan missionary friars who later came to New Mexico spent some time here. (Breakfast, box lunch) Overnight at Hotel NH Centro Histórico

4 Day Four Puebla Saturday, February 2 Today we will visit the Zona Arqueológica Cacaxtla ( C.E.). These ruins Olmec and Maya were discovered in 1975 and have been meticulously excavated. The most important artifacts are the numerous, beautifully colored murals. They feature vividly colored and well preserved frescoes showing, among many other scenes, nearly life sized jaguar and eagle warriors engaged in battle. Cacaxtla was a trade center and the most powerful capital in the region during the first half of what is known as the Texcalac cultural phase lasting from A.D Of particular interest, is the fact that most of the murals seem to combine the symbology of Altiplano cultures with influences from the Maya, making Cacaxtla unique in this regard. The most famous of its paintings is the "Battle Mural", located in the northern plaza. We will return to Puebla to enjoy a free afternoon. (Breakfast) Overnight at Hotel Cartesiano Puebla Cacaxtla

5 Day Five Puebla Sunday, February 3 In the morning our tour starts with a visit to the Conventos de Santa Rosa and Santa Monica. The latter operated secretly from 1857 to 1935 and the former was the largest convent in Puebla. Many of the famous traditional recipes of Mexican cuisine, including mole poblano and chiles en nogada, are reputed to have been invented in the tiled kitchens of these convents during the colonial era. The museum is closed for renovations but fortunately we will be able to visit its famous kitchen. The afternoon is free to explore on your own or to visit the Museo Amparo with pre-hispanic and colonial art or ceramic factories including Talavera Uriarte which has been in operation since 1924 and Centro de Talavera Poblana. (Breakfast, Lunch) Overnight at Hotel NH Centro Histórico Malinalco Day Six Malinalco Monday, February 4 We leave the beautiful city of Puebla and travel by bus to the town of Malinalco. The ride will take approximately 4-5 hours, depending on traffic. Originally a Matlazinca site, Malinalco was conquered by the Aztecs in 1470s. The name Malinalco comes from the Nahuatl word malinalli a kind of grass called zacate del carbonero in Spanish, the word xóchitl, which means flower and the word co, which means place therefore translating to where they worship the goddess Malinalxóchitl, the malinalli flower.

6 In legendary accounts, Malinalco was a very important place, but almost all archaeological evidence of its early pre-hispanic history has been lost or buried. However, perched 400 feet above Malinalco, the Aztec ruin of Cuauhtinchan is still precariously balanced on the hillside of the Cerros de los Idolos (Hill of Idols) and reveals a little of Malinalco s former strength. In 1501 it was converted by the Aztecs into a sanctuary and religious retreat for the Knights of Jaguars and Eagles from the Aztec capitol of Tenochtitlán (now Mexico City). The famous wooden drum with the Eagle on its side was found here after the Spanish conquest (now in National Museum of Anthropology). At the heart of the complex lies the circular Cuauhcalli (House of Eagles) with the mouth of a serpent carved around the doorway and carvings of Eagle and Jaguar knights around the walls. It was carved directly into the hillside and remains the only surviving monolithic temple built by the Aztecs. The complex includes six main buildings, many with relief carvings in the rock walls. Optional visit available for today or tomorrow. (Breakfast, Lunch) Overnight at Hotel Casa Limón Day Seven Malinalco Tuesday, February 5 We will visit the Templo y ex-monastery del Divino Salvador, a mission church and convent founded 1541; the church was completed by This Augustine monastery was built to be the center of evangelization work in this area. It is located in the center of town and has a medieval look, with thick, coarse walls. We will see the large fortress -like church with a tree filled atrium. The facade of the temple is decorated in simple Plateresque (early Spanish Renaissance) style with angels, rose windows and conch shell friezes. The interior of the monastery is covered in murals from the 16th century and is one of the earliest examples of Mestizo art, done by indigenous artists. The fantastic frescoes of flora and fauna in the convent are filled with native iconography. On the first level of the monastery, the courtyard maintains its original dimensions and its murals depict the Garden of Eden, filled with medicinal and alimentary plants, and native animals, such as monkeys, iguanas, and opossums. After lunch, transportation will be available for those who want to visit the town of Chalma, a Pre-Columbian pilgrimage site appropriated in the colonial period. There is a famous miraculous statue of Christ on the Cross, known as the Christ of Chalma. It remains the second most important pilgrimage site in Mexico today, after the Virgen of Guadalupe. (Breakfast) Overnight at Hotel Casa Limón Day Eight Mexico City Wednesday Feb 6 After breakfast and check out, we head north to Mexico City. Upon arrival, we will enjoy lunch and visit Casa Barragán. Luis Ramiro Barragán Morfín (March 9, 1902 November 22, 1988) was a Mexican architect and engineer. His work has influenced contemporary architects through visual and conceptual aspects. Barragán won the Pritzker Prize, the highest award in architecture, in Luis Barragán committed to architecture as a sublime act of the poetic imagination. He has created gardens, plazas, and fountains of haunting beauty metaphysical landscapes for meditation and companionship. We will visit his home and studio, a jewel of the 20th century, and considered by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage Site. After lunch we will continue to our hotel and the rest of the day is free. (Breakfast, Lunch) Overnight at Hilton Mexico City Reforma

7 Day Nine Mexico City Thursday, February 7 Our walking tour begins at the Templo y Ex-Convento of San Francisco. This complex was the headquarters of the first 12 Franciscan monks headed by Martín de Valencia who came to Mexico after receiving the first authorization from the Pope to evangelize in New Spain. In the early colonial period, this was the mother-house of the Franciscans and one of the largest and most influential monasteries in Mexico City. It was built on the site of Moctezuma II s zoo and once had a large mosque-like open chapel for Indians, like the one we will see in Cholula. At its peak, the church and monastery covered 4 city blocks. The church standing today is the third to be built on the site. The first two sunk into the soft soil underneath Mexico City and had to be torn down. This church was built between 1710 and The facade of the chapel was constructed in 1766 and it is believed to be the work of Lorenzo Rodríguez, best known for his work on the Sagrario attached to the Metropolitan Cathedral. Inside the church we can see the small statue of the Virgin of La Macana brought to New Mexico with Oñate s settlers, damaged and rescued during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, and carried to Mexico City by fleeing Franciscan missionaries where she survives in the church today. We will continue to The Temple of San Felipe Neri, commonly known as "La Profesa," a Catholic parish church that was established by the Society of Jesus late in the 16th century as the church of a community of professed Jesuits. The church is a masterwork of classically-based baroque. It is a monument of great importance, noted for its very large collection of colonial-era artworks spanning three centuries by some of Mexico s best artists including Cristóbal de Villalpando, Juan Correa, Pelegrín Clavé and José de Alcíbar. Recently, this church was the scene for deliberations relating to the beatification of Juan Diego. Museo Franz Mayer After lunch (on your own) we will continue to the Museo Franz Mayer. Located in an 18th building, it houses the finest collection of decorative arts in Mexico. For 4 centuries it functioned as a hospital, but in the 1980's it was renovated and converted into a museum to house Mr. Mayer s private collection. Born in Mannheim, Germany, Mayer moved to London and the United States

8 ! before arriving in Mexico in In 1920, he married María Antonieta de la Macorra and later became a widower without descendants. He became a Mexican citizen in This eclectic museum contains his carefully and tastefully displayed applied arts collection including 16ththrough 19 th -century Mexican ceramics, antique rebozos (Mexican shawls), religious articles, furniture, textiles, silver and gold pieces, clocks, and even cocinas poblanas (tiled Puebla-style kitchens). This afternoon is free to relax or have an optional visits to the Museo Mural Diego Rivera, the Museo Nacional de Antropología or the Castillo de Chapultepec which houses the Museo Nacional de Historia. (Breakfast) Overnight at Hilton Mexico City Reforma Day Ten Mexico City Friday, February 8 We leave the historic center in the morning and travel south to Xochimilco Lake where we board the colorful trajineras and learn about the chinampa system developed by the pre-hispanic civilizations living around the lakes in the Anahuac Valley, where modern Mexico City sits now. This system consisted of creating floating islands for agriculture using mud from the bottom of the lake and decaying vegetation. The system is highly efficient and productive (with up to 7 crops a year). The ecological reserve in the area of Cuemanco has about 115 miles of canals and 64,000 hectares of land available for agriculture and because this is a federal ecological reserve, no chemicals are allowed in the chinampas. Mud is scooped out from the bottom of the canals and laid down on the ground in a layer of about 4 inches to dry up. Then it is slashed in small cubes and seeds from a single crop and are sowed manually in every single cube, known as almacingo. When the crops start to sprout, they are planted in the ground that has been fertilized with decaying vegetation and animal manure. Xochimilco Lake Our next stop is at the San Bernardino de Siena Church. The Franciscan church and former monastery complex were built in the 16th century over a former pre-hispanic temple as part of evangelization efforts after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire. Since its construction, it has been the center of much of Xochimilco s history and social life, including ceremonies related to the famous image of the Child Jesus called the Niñopa. The interior of the church contains a rare 16thcentury altarpiece in Plateresque style. The only other altarpiece like it that survives is the one we will

9 have seen in Huejotzingo, Puebla. These are the types of church decoration that replaced the early wall murals. After our visit we head north to the neighborhood of San Ángel and eat lunch. Historically, it was a rural community, called Tenanitla in the pre-hispanic period. We will visit the Museo de El Carmen housed in the monastery that was founded on June 29, 1615 by the Carmelite Order. Its founder was Father Andrés de San Miguel. In the university, there was a college for theology students and a library, which contained more than 12,000 books. In 1858, the college was closed, and the complex was transferred to the local authorities. In 1929, the museum was created, and in 1939, it was transferred to the newly created Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia. (Breakfast, Lunch) Overnight at Hilton Mexico City Reforma Museo de El Carmen Day Eleven Mexico City Saturday, February 9 After breakfast we will walk across the street from our hotel to visit the Museo Nacional de Arte or MUNAL. This austere gray palace, built in 1910, served as the National Archives for many years and was converted into a museum in The cool and beautiful interior houses an overview of Mexican art dating from the early colonial period to the mid-20th century. Among the notable artists featured are colonial painters Miguel Cabrera, Cristóbal Villalpando, and Luis Juárez; 19 th - century painters Juan Cordero, José María Velasco, and Ramón Sagredo; the 20th century s Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Rufino Tamayo, and others. Our next stop is the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The first National Theater of Mexico was built in the late 19th century, but was torn down in favor of a more opulent building in time for Centennial of the Mexican War of Independence in The initial design and construction was undertaken by

10 Italian architect Adamo Boari in 1904, but complications arose from the soft subsoil and political problems before and during the Mexican Revolution, hindering then stopping construction completely by Construction began again in 1932 under Mexican architect Federico Mariscal and was completed in The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical and Art Nouveau and the interior is primarily Art Deco. The building is best known for its murals by Diego Rivera, Siqueiros and others, as well as the many exhibitions and theatrical performances it hosts, including the Ballet Folklórico de México (Wednesday and Sundays only). The afternoon is free to explore other sites including the Museo Templo Mayor or the Catedral Metropolitana. (Breakfast) Overnight at Hilton Mexico City Reforma Palacio de Bellas Artes Day Twelve - Mexico City Sunday, February 10 Mexico City to Houston - 12:45 pm - 2:55 pm Houston to Albuquerque - 6:15 pm - 7:35 pm Welcome Home! NOTE: It is possible that changes in any of the above i\nerary/program may be necessary. If so, whatever is altered will be replaced by its equivalent.

11 TOTAL COST OF THE TOUR PER PERSON INCLUDING INTERNATIONAL ROUND TRIP AIRFARE PER PERSON SHARING A ROOM--DOUBLE OCCUPANCY $3, ONE PERSON IN A ROOM--SINGLE OCCUPANCY $4, PROGRAM INFORMATION INCLUDED: A tax-deduc\ble dona\on of $ to Conexiones/Spanish Colonial Art Society Interna\onal round trip airfare from Albuquerque to Puebla returning from Mexico Accommoda\ons in Puebla, Malinalco and Mexico City Porterage of one bag person Breakfast daily, 5 lunches and 1 box lunch Visit to a private collec\on in Mexico City Transporta\on throughout by chartered bus, as indicated in the i\nerary Water on board the coach on traveling days Entrance fees to all sites indicated in the i\nerary English-speaking local guides NOT INCLUDED: Items of personal nature Tips to driver and guides REGISTRATION AND PAYMENTS: To register for this tour you must be a member of Conexiones, a support group of the Spanish Colonial Art Society. For informa\on about membership you can check the following link: hgp://spanishcolonial.org/membership/ Please contact Rosa R Carlson to confirm availability at (505) or carlsonrosa@hotmail.com To register please print and complete the Booking & Release Form (last page), agach a copy of your valid passport and a deposit check of $1, per person to: Journeys Interna\onal, Inc. 49 Verano Loop Santa Fe New Mexico 87508

12 CANCELLATION POLICY In case of cancella\ons, the following penal\es will be applicable: Amer deposit $ administra\ve fee Amer October 26, % of the total tour price Important: Purchase of trip cancella\on insurance is strongly recommended. If you have any pre-exis\ng condi\ons for which you would like coverage, most companies require that you must purchase the insurance within 14 days of your first payment for the tour. You can purchase coverage just for the amount of your deposit and later increase your coverage when the final payment is made. In addi\on, many health insurers, including Medicare, do not provide coverage for insured persons traveling abroad. Affordable health insurance for overseas travelers is readily available with companies such as Medex, Travel Guard, Allianz Travel Insurance and similar companies.

13 BOOKING and RELEASE FORM CONNEXIONES: PUEBLA, MEXICO CITY AND MALINALCO: JEWELS OF COLONIAL ART PLEASE ATTACH A COPY OF YOUR PASSPORT TO THE COMPLETED FORM: First Name(s): Last Name: M a i l i n g A d d ress: _ S tate : Code: Z i p Tel: Seat request (will do our best) No Single Supplement: Yes Sharing with: United Frequent Flyer # Meal requests / Allergies Emergency Contact: Tel: The undersigned intends travel to Mexico on a program administered by Journeys Interna\onal, Inc. The undersigned has been informed that travel and other ac\vi\es can be dangerous for a variety of reasons and may result in injury or loss of life and/or damage to property. The under- signed has been informed that neither Journeys Interna\onal, Inc. nor anyone on its behalf has obtained insurance to insure the undersigned or her/his property. The undersigned understands that if he/she wants to insure himself/herself and his/her heirs, successors and assigns, the undersigned will obtain such insurance at his/her own cost. The undersigned hereby waives, releases, acquits, exonerates and discharges any claim, cause of ac\on, demand or right of recovery against Journeys Interna\onal, Inc., its agents, employees, heirs, successors or assigns (the released par\es) for any personal injury (including psychological injury), death, damage or loss arising out of, or any way related to, the said trip to Mexico, the United States or in transit. The undersigned expressly understands that this Waiver and Release cons\tutes a bar to any and all claims against any of the released par\es arising out of any claim waived or released herein. The undersigned has entered into this Waiver and Release of his/her own free will and accord, not being influenced by any representa\on of the released par\es or by any other person. This document contains the en\re agreement between Journeys Interna\onal, Inc. and the undersigned concerning any liability, is severable and may be amended only in wri\ng signed by Journeys Interna\onal, Inc. and the undersigned. I HAVE CAREFULLY READ THE FOREGOING Print your name Signature Date