Eat Italia! Retiring to Italy? Read our essential guide. Bridging time in Rome. our search for black gold ROMANTIC VENICE COOK WITH CARLUCCIO

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1 ITALIA! ITALIA! Issue 147 February 2017 RETIRING TO ITALY 48 HOURS IN FLORENCE PUGLIA WINES CARLUCCIO S VEGETABLE RECIPES Issue 147 February Retiring to Italy? Read our essential guide ROMANTIC VENICE Love s eternal flame burns bright in La Serenissima COOK WITH CARLUCCIO Winning ways with winter veg Bridging time in Rome On the truffle trail our search for black gold THE UK S AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY NEW WEBSITE! TRAVEL CULTURE PROPERTY FOOD WINE PEOPLE SECRET PUGLIA Join us on a Grand Tour of this southern gem s culinary and artistic heritage Eat Italia! Classic dishes from Eataly, plus the best pasta 48 HOURS IN FLORENCE EXPLORE THE HIDDEN QUARTERS OF THE CITY Issue 147 February

2 The 13th-century Castel del Monte in Andria Puglia is more than its unique dry-stone trulli houses. It has stupendous castles, palazzi, churches, art galleries, and the most beautiful small cities Image Fototeca ENIT A Grand Tour of Puglia Art historian Rosalind Ormiston picks out some peerless cultural highlights of this popular tourist region in the slender heel of Italy s boot, more well-known for its sunshine, beaches and trulli 22 ITALIA! February 2017

3 St Martin s Basilica At the Trullo d Oro Domenico Modugno The trulli of Alberobello Images by Rosalind Ormiston unless otherwise stated The expression Grand Tour was coined by Richard Lassels, a 17th-century Roman Catholic priest and travelling tutor, in his book The Voyage of Italy, Or a Compleat Journey Through Italy. Lassels included many northern Italian towns and central locations, but the remarkable region of Puglia does not get a mention. Perhaps lost to him were the incredible Pugliese delights of the 13th-century citadel, the octagonal Castel del Monte, on a hilltop in Andria, or the Basilica di San Nicola in Bari, built between 1087 and 1197, which has contained the reliquary of St Nicholas s bones since its foundation. In the many accounts, from aristocrats to budding artists and architects, intent on a guided grand tour, very few considered travelling to Apulia (if you prefer the British spelling) but what a cultural indulgence they missed. Today s experts recognise that Puglia is more than the sum of its unique dry-stone trulli houses: it has stupendous castles, palazzi, churches, art galleries and the most beautiful small cities. Visit Bari or Bitonto, or Trani or Lecce, or Polignano or Martina Franca, to experience a beauty that envelops you. FAVOURABLE LOCATION The city of Bari is often a starting point for present-day tourists, due to its favourable location near an international airport. The city has much to show those who choose to linger within its city walls, including the spectacular port ruins. Hiring a local guide eliminates the culture-stress of what not to miss; they will take you to the most precious sites, or some lesser-known curiosity. Through the local guide s storytelling of bygone legends one can see the Italian sailors, soaked, hungry and Polignano a Mare February 2017 ITALIA! 23

4 St Martin clothing the poor San Martino is depicted everywhere, in paintings, sculptures and architectural detail, renting his cloak in two with his sword to give clothing to a poor man risking their lives to bring St Nicholas s bones from Myra, in what is now Turkey, to Bari. The saint is honoured on May 8th every year. ATMOSPHERIC CHARM Martina Franca has an atmospheric charm that makes you want to linger in its narrow alleyways and beautiful squares. Its origins date to the 14th century but it is also a must-see today for its stunning Baroque architecture, exemplified by the Basilica di San Martino, dedicated to the town s patron saint, Saint Martin, Bishop of Tours, who lived in the 4th century. San Martino is depicted everywhere, in paintings, sculptures and architectural detail, renting his cloak in two with his sword to give clothing to a poor man. A most striking example of him stands above the door of the Basilica. Focusing on the centro storico of Martina Franca, one can begin at Piazza XX Settembre and walk under the Arco di Sant Antonio (also known as the Porta di Santo Stefano), the triumphal arch to the Palazzo Ducale. The building was built for the wealthy Caracciolo family, on the site of 14th-century Orsini Castle. The architect was Giovanni Andrea Carducci, from Bergamo, and the richlydecorated exterior leads to an interior enfilade of frescoed rooms of Biblical, mythological and local scenes by local artist Domenico Carella. Alberobello should be on every modernday grand tourist s list, with the sight of over 1,000 trulli houses cone-shaped houses built from limestone, without using cement amassed within the town. One can visit the interiors of some, to see how families lived of old. Today, many are rented out for holidays. After the visual feast of trulli as far as the eye can see, a perfect place to stop to eat is Il Trullo d Oro (Via Felice Cavallotti, 27), with its superb menu of local dishes. After a day of cultural sightseeing it is perfect to conclude at Polignano a Mare, a coastal town of 4th century BC Greek origin, unrivalled for its spectacular cliff-top location. Polignano a Mare, between Bari and Brindisi on the Costa dei Trulli, is the birthplace of singer Domenico Modugno, who wrote, and sang, the global hit-song Volare. A walk through the pretty centro storico should include the Museo Pascali, an art gallery dedicated to regional artists (Via Parco del Lauro, 119), plus a visit to the beautiful Chiesa Maria Assunta, a cathedral and bishop s seat from the 7th to the 19th century. In addition, one should try the local speciality drink, the speciale, a delicious coffee made with almond milk and a dash of amaretto liqueur. Outside the cities, everywhere you turn there is a vista of the sea, or hills covered in vineyards, and olive groves. Inside the city walls walks through the pale, honey-coloured limestone streets, with visits to treasures such as the frescoed interior of the 1668 Palazzo Ducale in Martina Franca, bring you close to the art and architectural taste of the region in the 17th century. Baroque buildings tempt A resident of Alberobello Il Supermago del Gelo, home of the caffè speciale 24 ITALIA! February 2017

5 STAYING AT THE MASSERIA SAN DOMENICO Images on this page Masseria San Domenico The swimming pool at the Albergo Masseria San Domenico To make the most of a grand tour, a restful albergo is essential, to be relaxed before journeying and to return to when the day is over. The 5-star privately owned Albergo Masseria San Domenico is the perfect place to stay. The hotel, its buildings dating from the 15th century, was the first masseria a fortified farm house on a country estate in Italy to be converted into a hotel. Alongside its tennis courts it has the largest outdoor swimming pool in Italy, set amongst palm trees with a view, and a private road that leads directly to the sea and a private beach. There is an 18-hole golf course nearby owned by the estate. The bedrooms and suites are outstanding, each catering for the individual needs of the guests, each with a private courtyard garden, or terrace perfect for relaxing. A full culinary experience is one of the Masseria San Domenico s high points, from breakfast on the spacious terrace, or one s own garden courtyard, or the breakfast room, to the welcoming dining room in the evening. The Masseria chefs introduce visitors to the home-grown produce of the estate plus locally-sourced products which emphasize the culinary ethos of the Mediterranean diet. Another highlight of staying at the Masseria San Domenico is its superb thalassotherapy spa, with indoor pool, jacuzzi, Turkish bath, and specialist treatments using purified sea water. From a simple facial or massage, to three-day wellness programmes, the facilities, and the attentive staff, make the end of a day as tempting as its beginning. Masseria San Domenico is located about 50km from Bari and Brindisi airports. Children cannot be accommodated at the hotel. MASSERIA SAN DOMENICO Strada Provinciale, Savelletri, Fasano BR, Italy info@masseriasandomenico.com INFORMATION Art Tours Ltd ( , specialises in bespoke cultural travel for private clients, museum patron groups, clubs and societies. They offer guided art tours of Puglia from 2,699 pp including return flights from London, four nights at the Masseria San Domenico, three days touring with a local guide and vehicle, any entrance tickets, and airport transfer. Sleep in comfort in a garden suite Start the day with the breakfast buffet Relax and rejuvenate in the sea-water pool 26 ITALIA! February 2017

6 Burrata salad in Lecce At the Gallipoli fish market Lunch at the Fiermontina The shaded streets of Martina Franca Image Fototeca ENIT Trani Cathedral you with their intricate, festoon-covered façades. Arched doorways lead through to scented courtyards of fountains, or to happen upon neighbours sitting in the sunshine swapping stories, catching up on news. Martina Franca is one of the città bianche towns in the slim slip of land known as the Valley of Itria, so-called because of their predominantly white buildings. If you have time, they are a delight to visit the whitest, perched on a hilltop, being Ostuni. THE JEWEL OF PUGLIA The walled city of Lecce is called the Jewel of Puglia, and rightly so: it contains a wealth of outstanding art and architectural treasures spaced amongst its winding streets and large piazzas. Its ancient heritage is evident in the semi-excavated 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre in Piazza Sant Oronzo, the main square. A few streets away, the Piazza del Duomo is dominated by the cathedral, built in the Romanesque style in 1144 but later altered between by architect Gustavo Zimbalo to create the visual feast of Baroque we see today. Its 68-metre bell tower has four levels of balustrades. Opposite is Palazzo Vescovile, a Renaissance-style Episcopal palace initiated in the 15th century, enlarged in 1649 and restored in After walking through the town s many streets, a leisurely lunch at La Fiermontina (Piazzetta Scipione De Summa, 4), a most beautiful location set in the city walls, will restore energy and anticipation of a visit to Trani. The port of Trani, filled with fishing boats and trawlers, visually hints at the economy of what has always been a sea-trading centre. The long-term wealth of the city is exposed in the many Baroque palazzi and churches of medieval origin that adorn its streets. The mid-15th-century Palazzo Caccetta, on Via Ognissanti, has a Romanesque-Gothic façade, and is impressive. The vast seafront Castello now a museum open to the public was built in 1233 by Frederick II of Swabia. A walk past the port and castle, and up through the quiet streets, will bring you to the remarkable February 2017 ITALIA! 27

7 Entrance to the underground olive press at Gallipoli Speciality pastries in Lecce Lecce Cathedral The walled city of Lecce is called the Jewel of Puglia, and rightly so: it contains a wealth of outstanding art and architectural treasures A LOCAL LEGEND When staying in Puglia, look out for its fine ceramics, particularly depictions of bearded young men wearing female clothes. These relate to a decree passed in the 17th century by a licentious count who instigated a series of abusive laws, including the infamous jus primae noctis (Law of the First Night, aka Droit du Seigneur). This allowed him the first night with every newly-wedded bride. The grooms, not happy with this terrible decree, dressed up in the finery of their new wives to deceive the count. Cattedrale di San Nicola Pellegrino, set in a spectacular location overlooking the sea. The bronze-relief door panels of the church, created in 1185 by a famous local sculptor, Barisano, must be seen. There are said to be 60 million olive trees in Puglia, a visual sign of the region s economy. From the 16th century, the centre for this high-grade olive market was Gallipoli, with its port the gateway for overseas trade to the whole of Europe. It resulted in the pressing of the olives taking place in the city in underground presses, with men and ponies working in hot, suppressive conditions. One of the former oil mills, under Palazzo Granafei (Via Antonietta De Pace, 87), is open to the public, and worth a step inside to view the olive-pressing process, the old wooden structures and working conditions. Afterwards, a stroll to the seafront castle, and a visit to the daily fish market, gives a taste of this lively city. There are so many more towns in Puglia to see, but for now this was the perfect end to a Pugliese Grand Tour. 28 ITALIA! February 2017