Need to Know. When to Go. Quick Facts. Sample chapter. Display of blue pottery at a stall. For detailed information, see Travellers' Helpdesk on p220

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1 1 Need to Know For detailed information, see Travellers' Helpdesk on p220 Quick Facts Languages Hindi, Rajasthani (several dialects) and English (restricted to hotels, restaurants and travel agencies). MONEY ATMs are common in cities but far apart in the smaller towns and rural areas. Most hotels accept credit cards, though, many restaurants and shops do not. INTERNET ACCESS Most hotels provide Internet access. However, some hotels, especially in the rural areas might charge you high rates for Internet usage. It might also be difficult to find cyber cafes in the smaller towns and rural areas. TOURIST INFORMATION Rajasthan Tourism Board (% / ; gov.in; Paryatan Bhawan, Khasa Kothi Hotel Campus, MI Road, Jaipur) When to Go Display of blue pottery at a stall Parts of Rajasthan, especially the desert regions of Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur, face extreme temperature. During the summer months, temperatures go up to 50ºC, and in the winter months, temperatures become as low as 3ºC. End October March; high season: It might get very cold in the desert region in December and January, but it is still the best time to visit. Room rates are at their highest and the sights are crowded. Mt Abu becomes very cold, making this the low season there. September mid October; mid-season: The heat lessens all over the state. There are relatively fewer crowds, and room rates are the same as they are during the low season. April August; low season: The intense sunshine makes it almost impossible to be out in the desert region. Other parts of Rajasthan also become unbearably hot. However, Sample chapter

2 for the indian traveller 2 May, June and July are the best months to visit the hill station of Mt Abu, which has pleasant weather during this time. The short monsoon season (end June mid Aug) brings some respite from the heat. First time in Rajasthan Health & Safety It is advisable to carry a basic medical kit. Medicine shops, though easily found in the bigger cities, are few and far apart in smaller towns and non-existent along most of the highways. Doctors and big hospitals are available only in large cities like Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur. The state is known to be safe, especially for visitors, and staying out late at night is usually never a problem. Advance Planning Two to three months before: Plan your itinerary and buy your tickets, since prices soar during the peak seasons and trains and flights are usually overbooked. One month to three weeks before: Search online and book your hotel for good prices. One week before: Read up about the places and make a note of the sights and activities that you want to see and do during your visit. What to Pack Dark glasses, sunscreen, a big scarf to cover your face and head, caps or hats: Very important to avoid getting sunburnt both during summer and winter. Dos and Don ts Feel free to bargain at every stage with autorickshaw drivers, shopkeepers and even with hotels and desert safari operators, if you haven t pre-booked yourself. Carry light snacks such as biscuits, cake, chips and bottles of water when travelling between cities. Most highway routes in the state have motels and stores only at intervals of 50 60km. Carry hand sanitisers and tissues most highway stopovers don t stock these. Carry a basic medical kit especially if you are planning a stay over in the desert during your trip. If you are visiting the Ajmer Dargah, avoid wearing shorts, bermudas, short skirts or dresses. Cameras and mobile phones are not allowed in most Jain temples, so arrange to keep these in the car before you enter the premises. Dress modestly for a visit to temples. Carry a scarf to cover your shoulders if you're wearing a sleeveless top. The right clothes: Carry loose-fitting cotton and comfortable clothing in light colours for the summer months and layers of warm clothing including a heavy jacket, woollen cap, socks and thermals for the winter months. Comfortable shoes: Vital for the long walks up to and through the various forts, palaces and other sights in Rajasthan. Carry a pair of warm, covered shoes if travelling in the winter months. Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

3 3 12 Top Experiences 1 Staying by Lake Pichola, Udaipur Udaipur (p110), often referred to as the Venice of Rajasthan, is perhaps the prettiest city in the entire state. Chief among the cluster of lakes are Pichola and Fateh Sagar. Besides being the jewels in Udaipur s crown, they also happen to be the centre of all activity in the city. Stay in a room overlooking the Lake Pichola and be dazzled by the views of the City Palace Complex on its banks and Jag Niwas and Jag Mandir at the centre of the lake. Sample chapter The sight of the lit-up monuments as you hear the chants of aarti from the Gangaur Ghat is an experience that is hard to replicate anywhere else in the state. Ruchin Avsathi, sales professional, Jaipur

4 for the indian traveller 4 2 Sunset at Nahargarh Fort The 17th-century Nahargarh Fort (p74), set atop a mountain, offers the best views of Jaipur. And that s not all. As dusk sets in, stay on for the most magnificent sunset that you will see while in Rajasthan. Go up to the terrace and just sit in the quiet for an out-of-the-world experience. I live in Jaipur and often go up to Nahargarh during sunset but no two days are the same here. DJ Dasgupta, geologist and nature enthusiast Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

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6 for the indian traveller 6 Jaipur & Eastern Rajasthan Why Go? Jaipur is one of the most popular cities to travel to in India, both for Indian and foreign visitors. The city has much to offer from fascinating history and traditional Rajasthani culture to facets of changing and modern life. It is also the ultimate destination for shopaholics. A few hours away, the tiny villages of Shekhawati showcase a Rajasthan that is unspoilt and serene. Cut to Pushkar and Ajmer just 20 minutes away from each other both are places of faith and draw devotees through the year. Pushkar, also known for its bustling annual cattle fair, held in November, is a tourist magnet and oozes a Varanasilike charm in its winding lanes dotted with shops. Getting There & Away Air: There are direct flights to Jaipur from Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bangalore, Chennai and Hyderabad. Bus: There are regular buses from Delhi to Jaipur ( gov.in). Private operators such as Volvo Coach India (% ; www. volvocoachindia.com) also ply buses to Jaipur. Car: The NH8 connects Jaipur by road to Delhi (265km). The Shekhawati circuit is best explored by car since public transport is not very reliable in this region. Rajasthan Routes & Trails (% ; www. rajasthanroutestrails.com) and Rajasthan Four Wheel Drive (% / / ; operate car rental services across the state. Train: Jaipur and Ajmer can be reached by train from several major cities. The Ajmer Shatabdi is the best option from Delhi. Check for train timetables and schedules on The intricately patterened Rose Gate at City Palace, Jaipur Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

7 7 Sahelion ki Bari, an 18th-century entertainment park 9 Sahelion ki Bari It is said that this garden complex was built by Maharana Sangram Singh in 1734 as an entertainment park for his daughter. The idea was to bring in the feel of monsoon through the year in a rain-starved Rajasthan. As you walk in, a row of dancing fountains greets you. Inside are Sawan Bhado a park overgrown with trees to give a forest-like feel and courtyards and fountains, where the princess and her friends celebrated Holi and Garba. `5; 8am 8pm a Sajjangarh Accounts suggest that Sajjangarh, popularly called the monsoon palace, was commissioned by Maharana Sajjan Top Tip: Getting to Sajjangarh It is best to hire a car for your visit to Sajjangarh, since there is a steep climb of over a kilometre to the top from the main entrance of the monument, where autos will normally drop you. Alternatively, avail of the shuttle car service (`79 per person for a round trip) provided by the Sajjangarh authorities from the ticket counter. Sample chapter

8 for the indian traveller 8 If You Like: Arts, craft and culture Shilpgram (`30; 11am 7pm; This is an artificially created crafts and culture village located 3km outside Udaipur and best suited for a brief stroll and shopping for knick-knacks and local art and craft. The village brings together handicrafts and cultural shows by artisans from the states of Rajasthan, Goa, Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat. The products on display include home decor items, clothes, shoes, saris, bed linen, puppets and paintings, among others. Check the website for dates of their annual festival in December. Bharatiya Lok Kala Mandal Museum (adult/child: `25/15; 9am 6pm. Puppet show & dance performance: `40; 6 7pm): This is a privately owned extensive museum that chronicles the culture, religion and customs of Indian tribes as well as the arts and crafts of some international communities. The collection consists of a range of colourful clothes, stunning jewellery, interesting masks, turbans, idols of tribal deities and also clay models. A 10-minute puppet show is organised in the museum every half hour if there are a large number of visitors. Singh in 1874 for two purposes to monitor the amount of rainfall in the region and as a communication and astronomical tower. The initial plan was to build the palace up to 13 storeys high, but following Sajjan Singh s untimely demise, the work came to a halt. Later, because of the dense forests around it, it also served as a hunting lodge. The adjoining lawns offer stunning views of the city below and as the sun sets, the entire ambience of the place changes from regal to romantic. `20; 8am 5:30pm; car entry: `130 The monsoon palace was a former hunting lodge b Ropeway A sure-shot hit with children, the ropeway service in Udaipur starts from Dudh Talai and, a four minute ride later, transports visitors to the hilltop that houses the Karni Mata Temple. Besides the thrill of a ropeway ride, this journey also offers a bird s-eye view of the city. `72; 8am 9pm Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

9 9 4 Accommodation The most obvious choice in Jaisalmer is to stay inside the fort since this is the only one in India that allows you to do so. However, most of these hotels, except a few, are backpacker joints. There are some wonderful heritage hotels in the old city and some stunning new properties around the city. INSIDE THE FORT Garh Jaisal % ; www. Heritage ``` hotelgarhjaisal.com; in Fort Kotri Para; r `6700 onwards To see what it feels like to live in a fort, book a room at Garh Jaisal. Each of the seven rooms are neat, spacious and have gorgeous views of the city below. The hotel isn t huge, but is tastefully done up with a lovely rooftop restaurant. magazines and books. It is a cluster of rooms and terraces that have been converted into a lovely sevenroom palace. The terraces are worth spending the entire day in. Four of the rooms here share two bathrooms but are suited to families. Some of the stairs here are quite steep so be careful if you are visiting with elders. Jaisal Castle Heritage ` % ; 186 Fort; r `1500 onwards A large courtyard, wide balconies and rooms spread across various wings define this old property that is warm and homely from the word go. Though a little old, the spacious rooms make for a comfortable stay and most of them have views of the city behind the fort. A few rooms even have a terrace. The rooftop restaurant serves dishes across many cuisines. Killa Bhawan Heritage `` % ; com; in Fort, 445 Kotri Para; r `4400 onwards Perhaps the most famous property within the fort, Killa Bhawan finds mention in leading international Paradise Hotel Heritage ` % ; www. paradiseonfort.com; near Dusserah Chowk; r `1050 onwards Tucked away in a lane behind Dusserah Chowk, Paradise is a haveli converted Snapshot: Fragile Fort A decade ago the whole structure of Jaisalmer Fort was in danger of sinking into the sand. The main problem was in the form of piped water for the fort s inhabitants and several hotels and establishments that have cropped up to cater to tourism. Since then, several conservation organisations including INTACH have raised funds and carried out much-needed conservation works to save the fort. Most important has been the renewal of the fort s drainage system and repaving of the streets, as well as repair works inside the fort palace. While the fort is no longer in imminent danger of subsiding, thoughtless, often illegal, building work remains a threat to parts of its structure. Visitors should be aware of the fort s fragile nature and conserve resources, especially water, as much as possible. Sample chapter

10 FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER 10 into a hotel, though with none of the poshness that haveli hotels often flaunt. This is your basic place with some great views of the city from the rooms on the first floor. The USP of the place is the view of the sunset from the terrace. The decor borders on cheesy but the prices and the service lets you ignore that. OLD CITY Nachana Haveli Heritage `` % ; www. nachanahaveli.com; Gandhi Chowk; d `3500 onwards (incl of breakfast) Bang in the middle of the old city, the Nachana Haveli is a haven of peace. A leafy courtyard leads to this 250-yearold family home which is a 16-room hotel. The two suites have a dressing area and terrace and the rooms have high ceilings, yellow-sandstone walls and are done up in traditional furniture and elegant upholstery. The courtyards have low wooden sofas with cushions strewn around. Located within the fort, Killa Bhawan is a lovely property with seven rooms Narayan Niwas Palace Heritage `` % ; Amar Sagar Pol; r `3600, ste `7200 The oldest hotel in Jaisalmer is palatial. A long pathway lined with arches leads to the rooms that are neat and compact. The suites are luxurious with a separate seating area done up with old Raj furniture, and expansive views of the fort. The rooms on the ground floor don t have views but the use of mirrors on the walls lends to a sense of space. Since the hotel is spread out, the management discourages room service. Pleasant Haveli % ; www. pleasanthaveli.com; Chainpura Street, Gandhi Chowk; r `2000 onwards (incl of breakfast) The Heritage ` exterior may make this property akin to the endless number of heritage-look Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.