Friends in Perigord France, 28 th June - 1 st July 2014

Transcription

1 , 28 th June - 1 st July 2014

2 , 28 th June - 1 st July 2014

3 Saturday June 28th Saturday, 28th June 2014 From Arrival Check-in at Domaine de Rochebois in Sarlat la Caneda Dinner at the retaurant Petit Manoir Sarlat la Caneda 2 3

4 Saturday June 28th 4 5

5 Saturday June 28th SARLAT LA CANEDA The most famous town in the region and one of the most renowned and visited in. It is also one of the most attractive. Often called just Sarlat, the town is actually twinned with its less famous neighbour and is more correctly called Sarlat le Caneda. Sarlat is in the region called the Perigord Noir in the Sout West of. Destined to be besieged by tourists at almost all times of the year Sarlat is a beautiful, well restored town a few kilometres north of the River Dordogne. The old town, dating from both medieval and renaissance times is a pleasure to visit, especially during the spring and autumn, or early in the morning. Broadly, the pedestrianised Rue de la Republique runs the length of the old town, with mazes of narrow streets either side. The cathedral is to the south-east of Sarlat, with the attractive Place de Payrou and Hotel de la Boétie. North east is the lovely Place de la Liberté and the wonderful winding street of the Rue des Consuls. The cathedral was originally the church of Sarlat Abbey. Over the centuries it has been added to and transformed and is now a mix of Roman, Gothic and other styles. The cour du cloitre and the nearby cour des fontaines and the cour des chanoines were all originally part of the abbey. The jardin des Enfeus just above the cathedral is the ancient abbey cemetary and there are several sarcophagus and enfeus (enfeus are tombs that are built into the church wall). Up above the cathedral and the Jardin des Enfeus is an unusual structure - La Lanterne des morts, lantern of the dead. This bullet shaped building has had various roles over time including a funeral chapel. Opposite the cathedral on the Place du Peyrou is the splendid Hôtel de La Boétie, birthplace of the philosopher and humanist Etienne de La Boétie. His house has a large arched entrance and Renaissance style mullioned windows. Crossing back over the Rue de la Republique walk down the Rue des Consuls. This road is one of the highlights of Sarlat and contains a number of very impressive mansions. There is the 16th century Hotel de Mirandol with its imposing doorway, the 14th century Hotel Plamon with its three arched windows. The floor above with its mullion windows was added a century later. The Hotel de Vassal was built in the 15th century and has a double turret and the Hotel Tapinois de Betou has a monumental staircase. Wandering along the street taking in all the different details of windows and doors and roofs is a pleasure. 6 7

6 Sunday, 29th June 2014 THE VALLEE DU LOT About 130 Km Departure from Domaine de Rochebois. Arrival in Gouffre de Padirac and visit to the caves. Departure from Gouffre de Padirac towards Lacave, lunch at Le Pont de l Ouysse. Deaprture from Gouffre de Padirac and driving towards Souillac. Coffee break and visit to the Musee de l Automate. Back to Sarlat la Caneda. Dinner in Saint-Geniès at the Restaurant du Chateau. 8 9

7 Sunday June 29th GOUFFRE DE PADIRAC The Gouffre de Padirac has always sparked imaginations and fueled Périgordian legends. There is talk of flames that sometimes erupt from the Gouffre and fabulous treasure that was hidden there by English soldiers at the end of the Hundred Years War. The stories often differ, but the devil is always present. In one of the most popular tales, the devil formed the Gouffre with the kick of his heel to challenge Saint Martin. If the saint were able to cross the abyss, Lucifer would give him all the souls of the damned peasants he was about to drive straight to hell. So Saint Martin, driven by his faith, spurred his mule. With a tremendous leap, the animal reached the other side of the crater, leaving an imprint of his hooves in the rock that is still discernable today. Defeated and angry, the devil immediately disappeared to the bottom of the Gouffre The Gouffre de Padirac legend was born. The history of the Gouffre de Padirac is intimately linked to that of Edouard-Alfred Martel. It wasn t until the end of the 19th century that Padirac found its pedigree and began its path to fame. Before becoming the most famous Gouffre in Europe, there first had to be an encounter. This encounter took place on 9 July That day Edouard-Alfred Martel, a lawyer by trade but impassioned by underground explorations, slowly descended the rungs of his ladder floating along the Gouffre s wall. Although a confirmed explorer, he had no idea what he would find 75 meters below. He had scarcely set his foot on the ground when Martel was struck by this place like no other. Equipped with candles and a magnesium lamp, Edouard-Alfred Martel and his 4 companions entered the lair of the Gouffre. Many expeditions later, after having crossed the various narrow passages and stalagmite dams by canoe and foot, Martel was sure of one thing: the adventure was only beginning. No human being has gone into these depths before us, no one knows where we are going or what we are seeing, nothing so strangely beautiful has ever before been presented to us, spontaneously we all ask ourselves the same reciprocal question: Are we not dreaming? 10 11

8 Sunday June 29th LACAVE - LE PONT DE L OUYSSE The restaurant Le Pont de l Ouysse is nestled beneath a vertiginous cliff crowned by the Belcastel Castle. The mysterious Ouysse River, its banks lined with footpaths and gardens, flows quietly by. Along its banks, a subtle melange of flowers, aromatic plants and vegetables adds a note of colour and a hint of bygone days. And the ruins of the ancient bridge bring a romantic touch to a place where, upon arriving, every guest dreams of leaving daily woes behind so as to revel in the splendour of the magical surroundings. Considerably more than a century, in fact, because the original farm on the site probably became the Hôtel-Café du Pont de l Ouysse in1886, when a stone bridge was built across the little river and the workmen spread the news of the splendid country meals provided by the farmer s wife. Since then, the kitchen was passed from mother to son, from father to son-in-law and then, in the beginning of 1977, to another daughter and son-in-law, Marinette and Daniel Chambon, who were first honoured with a Michelin star 12 years later. One constant belief shared by each generation: an abiding love and respect for the bounties of nature and the unsurpassed quality of the local produce immediately to hand. The fifth generation has now taken up the torch. Stephane and Mathieu sons of Daniel and Marinette, have both been trained scrupulously in the hotel-restaurant business in and internationally, now ensure the succession of this gastronomic family history

9 Sunday June 29th 14 15

10 SOUILLAC Souillac is about 30 km east of Sarlat. Souillac is a very pleasant town and an excellent base for exploring the east of the Dordogne department and the north of the Lot. There are lots of camp sites in the hills rising above Souillac. The main attraction in Souillac is the Abbey Sainte-Marie. The original abbey was built in the 12th century. Souillac s situation on the road between Toulouse and Paris, on the river Borrèze and close to the river Dordogne led to the development of the town. It was surrounded by a defensive wall with five entrances. However the town and particularly the abbey suffered in the wars of religion. In the 17th century the benedictine monks rebuilt the monastic buildings next to the abbey. The abbey has beautiful domes in the same style as the cathedral at Perigueux. Inside are some excellent Romanesque sculptures. The town itself still contains many vestiges of its medieval past and you can pick up a guide from the tourist office or take a guided tour either on foot or on the little train. One of the best part of town is around the town library which is in a beautiful 14th century medieval building. The road behind this, the Rue de la Halle is full of interesting buildings. This road was the original Grand Rue and joined the two main gateways into the town

11 Monday June 30th Monday, 30th June 2014 THE VALLEES DE LA VEZERE ET DE LA DORDOGNE About 160 km Departure from Domaine de Rochebois Driving towards Grotte de Rouffignac, break and visit. Departure from Grotte de Rouffignac heading to Tremolat, lunch and visit. In the afternoon driving to the Abbaye de Cadouin and visit to the monastery. Back to Sarlat la Caneda; dinner at the Le Grand Bleu restaurant

12 Monday June 30th GROTTE DE ROUFFIGNAC The cave of Rouffignac, La Grotte de Rouffignac, containing ice age art has been known for centuries and was described in 1575 by Francois de Belleforest. It is located in the heart of the Perigord, between Bergerac and Sarlat in the Dordogne region. The site has more than 250 etchings, line drawings and cave paintings dating from the Upper Paleolithic (Magdalenian, more than years BP). With a length of over eight kilometres, this cave is one of the largest painted caves in Europe. Visitors use an electric railway to gain access to the cave. Research has identified numerous traces of claws and lairs left by the cave bear before human intervention. These galleries were decorated with 158 mammoths associated with woolly rhinoceroses, bison, horses and ibex. The figures are deeply engraved or painted black. Tectiform signs and four human figures are also present

13 Monday June 30th TREMOLAT Tremolat is a very pleasant village to wander through or stop for lunch. There are a couple of restaurants in the centre. Indeed one of the best restaurants in the Dordogne is in the centre of this peaceful little village. There is a tiny stream running through the village with stone bridges to cross it and various houses overhanging it adding to the quiet charm of the village. The church in the centre of the village is very tall and narrow inside. The stone inside has been painted cream and the stations of the cross are simple wooden crosses of a design similar to the celtic cross. Behind the alter are the remains of some frescoes. All in all a very simple and attractive interieur. The church was built in the 12th century and is all that remains of a monastery that once stood here. The church had a defensive role and has a strong room which served to shelter the villagers in times of attack. On the edge of the village is a 12th century chapel, Saint-Hilaire Chapel which has been renovated by the locals. There is also a plan d eau (place where you can take a dip in the water to cool down!) which is reputed for its water skiing. It is the Cingle to Tremolat that attracts the visitors though - you should follow the road called the Route du Cingle, for breathtaking views of the Dordogne. The cingle is a bend in the river giving the view of the Dordogne an extra dimension. There are lovely arched stone bridges crossing the river on each side of the bend. The views from the Belvedere de Tremolat are magnificent

14 CADOUIN ABBEY The monastery Moraca was raised on the right bank of the River Moraca, not far from Kolasin. This church was built in 1252 by Stefan Nemanja, son of king Vukasin, and grandson of Nemanja, which can be seen on the inscription, which is situated above the doors on the west entrance. This mystical sacral edifice is surrounded, like a medieval fortress, with high stonewall inside which there are sleeping quarters which can tell you some legend from this area. According to one legend, which is present among the local people, this monastery was made of special yellow stone, which is found in the area very far from the place where the monastery actually is. According to this legend people from this area made a column, which was tens of kilometers long, and in that way turned the stone from hand to hand from the place called Tusine, the place where the stone was located, to the present monastery Moraca. The monastery complex is made of Synod church Uspenja Bogorodice, small church of Sveti Nikola, as well as of sleeping quarters building. Synod church is big and has one transept. It was made in style of Raska churches, with a half circle apsidal and dome and in difference to the churches, which have been made in coastal style; the walls of this church have been rendered. Beside the architecture, which is characteristic for this monastery, what is also interesting is the painting of the monastery. Artistic beauty of the monastery is far famous, mainly because of the frescoes with which it has been painted. By the period of origin frescoes date from two periods. Ones were painted in XIII century and the others in two periods in XVI and in XVIII century. Moraca painting school is considered to be one of the greatest achievements of Byzantine art. It stands out with fine feeling for regular ratio in proportion, figures dominate in one non hierarchy relationship, and thick lines with mild movements are noticeable. As for the colors, Moraca painting has surpassed Studenica and Milesevo painting especially in color tone modeling. Frescoes in Moraca show the victory of the so-called plastic style with which it takes the pioneer role when we are talking about painting in these areas in general. The monastery itself will give you an unforgettable experience if you visit it

15 Tuesday July 1st Tuesday, 1st July 2014 THE PERIGORD ROUGE AND THE GARONNE About 190 Km Departure from Domaine de Rochebois. Driving towards St-Emilion; visit to the town and lunch at the Hostellerie de Plaisance. Departure from St-Emilion and arrival in Martillac. Check-in at the Small Luxury Hotel Le Sources de Caudalie. Dinner at the hotel

16 Tuesday July 1st ST. EMILION Saint Emilion is a town 35km north east of Bordeaux, in the Gironde department (in the Aquitaine region of south-west ). It is best known (indeed renowned the world over) for the vineyards which surround the town, Saint Emilion being one of the four Bordeaux red wine regions, but is also an exceptionally attractive small town. The history of the town dates back almost 2000 years when the Romans planted vineyards in what was to become Saint-Émilion as early as the 2nd century AD, while the town itself dates from the 8th century when Emilion, a Breton Monk, came to settle in a hermitage carved into the rock. Saint Emilion is entered by way of one of the seven gates that are part of the original medieval fortifications. Inside you will discover steep narrow streets with beautiful buildings, and several more open squares, each more attractive than the one before. Built from, or rather hacked out of, the local yellow limestone, Saint Emilion is centred around a large square with a church on one side - a quite remarkable church, because it is more or less hewn into the the rock face. You can also climb the steps inside the 13th century bell tower which sits on the square above for stunning views across the rooftops and countryside. Street in Saint-EmilionFor more views and history you can also climb to the top of the Chateau du Roy, the keep that is part of the medieval castle that once stood here. Other particular places of interest also include the collegiate church and its splendid cloister; the Cordeliers monastery and cloister; and the underground pottery museum, built in a 12th century quarry and containing pottery from 2000 years ago up to the present day. The town has managed to prevent the development that might have spoiled it, and now Saint Emilion and the surrounding region is a listed and protected UNESCO World Heritage Site, so future development is more or less impossible

17 Tuesday July 1st MARTILLAC, LE SOURCES DE CAUDALIE HOTEL Sense of detail and service of a Palace combined with a warm and family atmosphere. Les Sources de Caudalie, located among the vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a Graves great growth, was established in The concept behind Les Sources de Caudalie is inspired by the French Paradox, discovered over 20 years ago. It refers to a study proving that the French diet and lifestyle, particularly in Southwest, is conducive to good health. Between vineyards and forests, at only 20 minutes from Bordeaux center, the architect Yves Collet created from scratch contemporary buildings from recycled local materials in tune with the surroundings. Alice and Jérôme Tourbier have managed Les Sources de Caudalie for the past ten years in keeping with the values they hold dear: well-being, generosity, authenticity, high-quality service, and emotion. Welcome to a universe where everything is devoted to nature, taste and senses. The restaurant La Grand Vigne Nicolas Masse initiates you into the secrets of fine food combining flavour, balance and creativity. Inspired by 18th century ornamental greenhouses, the restaurant La Grand Vigne, rewarded with a Michelin star since 2010, invites you to discover a sincere and generous cuisine which evolves with the season. La Grand Vigne is in a refined setting overlooking a small lake with swans, and it features a small terrace on which enjoy meals, weather permitting. The decor and the 18th century fireplace that dominates the dining room recall the various shades of red wine grapes as they ripen in order to create a warm, comfortable ambiance that enhances the pleasure during a romantic dinner, or a business meeting in a private room. Among the vineyards, Nicolas Masse finds his inspiration and develops his own style which combines sincere and balanced cuisine and respects local products

18 Wednesday, 2nd July 2014 THE MEDOC About 160 Km Departure from Le Sources de Caudalie. Arrival in Margaux to enjoy the visit to Chateau Marquis de Terme and lunch. In the afternoon back to the hotel. Farewell dinner in Bordeaux

19 Wednesday July 2nd CHATEAU MARQUIS DE TERME Pierre Sénéclauze was born in Oran, in Algeria, in At that time his father was a successful broker dealing in high quality wines. They had a well-established reputation both in and abroad. [ ] with a substantial private clientele. The wines were much in demand, and it was a thriving business. At the age of 17, Pierre Sénéclauze started to work alongside his father. In 1935 he left Oran for mainland in order to visit their network and boost sales. However he had another idea in mind : to find a good property to buy in the Médoc. His astute friend Paul Quié had told him that, following the stock market crash, a lot of French vineyards were being sold for next to nothing, and that there were some interesting opportunities. Pierre Sénéclauze bought Château Marquis de Terme that same year. He took over the management of the property. Dynamic and respectful of tradition, the Sénéclauze family were already involved in exporting high quality Algerian wines and were able to make sound choices, entrusting the running of the property to various stewards and managers. Pierre Sénéclauze died in Château Marquis de Terme then belonged to the three Sénéclauze sons, Pierre-Louis, Philippe and Jean. The following years saw a lot of work and investment being carried out at the property; land consolidation of the estate in the fifties, construction of the new winery in 1981, to replace the outlying Gondats winery, modernisation of the commercial strategy in 1982, renovation of the buildings in 1984, and numerous investments in technology, including temperature control, which was introduced to the vat room in This was marked by a huge harvest celebration at Château Marquis de Terme in 1984, organized by the Commanderie du Bontemps of the Médoc and Graves. Nearly 800 people were received in the new winery, including Charles Aznavour. In January 2009, between the second and the third generations of the Sénéclauze family, a new director arrived at the château. Since 2009, Ludovic David has introduced, with the support of the owners, far-reaching new policies, with a more international focus. Various projects have been completed at the property : the restoration and furnishing of a new tasting room, renovation of the winery with the installation of new technology, and investment in international communication and press relations

20 Wednesday July 2nd BORDEAUX Bordeaux is near the Atlantic coast in the Gironde department of Aquitaine. Bordeaux is a wonderful city full of beautiful and historic buildings. This has recently been acknowledged by UNESCO who have classified 1810 hectares of the city of Bordeaux as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the largest urban area to be given this classification. Wander around Bordeaux and you can enjoy large open boulevards, narrow paved medieval streets, large squares surrounded by cafés and restaurants, and lots of very impressive individual sites. The riverside has recently been done up by architect Dominique Perrault and is now a key part of Bordeaux s attraction. Bordeaux s Gallo Roman past can be seen in the layout of some of Bordeaux s streets for example the long, straight Rue St Catherine. The Palais Gallien is the only visible remain of this period of history and is a 2nd century amphitheatre located fairly close to the botanic gardens. Bordeaux s gothic period can be seen in the narrow streets around the churches of Saint-Pierre and Saint Simeon. In the 12th century Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Louis VII in the Cathedral of St Andre. More building took place in this period including the Grosse Cloche, a beautiful belltower which is the remains of the Saint Eloi gateway. This marriage brought Bordeaux under English rule until the end of the Hundred Years War in the 15th century. From 1581 to 1585 Montaigne, a famous French philosopher was mayor of Bordeaux. It was during the 18th century that Bordeaux grew dramatically. Bordeaux was the busiest port in at this point in its history and the town was transformed into an elegant city with large squares, wide, open streets and beautiful mansions. The Grand Theatre, Place de la Bourse and the elegant stone mansions built along a long stretch of the river all date to this period

21 Thursday July 3rd Thursday, 3rd July 2014 After breakfast end of the rally and participants farewell 38 39