It is Time... Eat Meat & Fish

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1 Special promotion Jómfrúin If Gallup were to poll Reykjavíkians about their favorite Danish open-face sandwich restaurant, Jómfrúin would win hands down. Walk down Lækjargata at lunchtime, peek into Jómfrúin s windows and see for yourself: the restaurant that is a little touch of Denmark is packed. It s popular because of Iceland s relationship to Denmark, says Jakob Jakobsson, the restaurant s owner, referring to Iceland s former status as a Danish colony. We have quick service, great food, and the location is good. Don t take Jakob s word for it. Try it yourself, but make sure to order the H.C. Andersen: rye bread with crisp bacon, liver pâté, port aspic, horse radish and the ubiquitous butter spread across most of Jómfrúin s open-face sandwiches jomfruin.is Lónkot Bucolic Resort Once a traditional Icelandic farm but converted into a guesthouse and restaurant 20 years ago, the family-owned Lónkot lies in the beautiful and remote Skagafjörður in the north of the country. As a member of Slow Food, the restaurant is renowned for its creative use of the region s Eat Meat & Fish best produce: flowers, herbs, berries, an assortment of fish, mountain lamb and birds from the nearby islands. Newly renovated, the bucolic resort also offers hostel-style accommodation and camping, as well as the obligatory hot pot. Lónkot lies just over three hours from Reykjavík, one hour from Akureyri, and near the Icelandic Emigration Center, which commemorates the emigration of Icelanders to North America lonkot.com HÓTEL RANGÁ You could start with the seafood soup, laden with chunks of fresh salmon, monkfish and prawns. Maybe you ll sip some of the hotel s own-label beer, Hrammur. Then you could try Hótel Rangá s take on the surf and turf, featuring scallops drizzled in lobster oil and Icelandic lamb. But whatever you do, leave room for the chocolate and skyr cake, a signature concoction of rich chocolate and velvety skyr-based cheesecake for which locals are happy to drive the 100 kilometers from Reykjavík to taste. After your gourmet meal, do like the King of Sweden on his visit and enjoy a drink in one of the hotel s outdoor hotpots. Then sit back, relax and start planning your next trip to this luxurious enclave in South Iceland hotelranga.is Reykjavík s chefs know how to feed their people. Here is a guide to the vie gourmande in the capital and beyond. Humarhúsið From its perch in a historical timber house on the hill overlooking bustling Lækjargata, the haute cuisine kitchen of Humarhúsið (The Lobster House) offers a host of local ingredients prepared to highlight delicate, complex flavors, including cod, catfish, salmon, mussels, horse, lamb and, of course, langoustine (Icelandic lobster). Enjoy the candlelit dining room decorated with antique furniture and accent pieces that speak to the house s historical provenance. For a romantic evening, try the four-course menu, consisting of creamy lobster soup, catfish with creamy barley and carrot purée, a fascinating combination of tenderloins of pork and langoustine, and to finish, vanilla parfait with warm licorice sauce and blueberries. All dishes can be ordered with wine carefully selected to compliment their taste. Humarhúsið brings Iceland s best to the fine dining table humarhusid.is Restaurant Reykjavík Come for the seafood buffet, stay for the dessert Housed in a beautiful historical quayside building dating back to 1870, Restaurant Reykjavík is the ideal place for both small and large groups to have lunch or dinner. The seafood buffet, open every evening from 6 pm, is a big hit. Including the soup of the day, selection of starters, hot and cold main courses, traditional Icelandic, Asian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes, the buffet is certainly value for money. The courses on the menu are more mouthwatering still with the Icelandic lamb duo being among the most popular. All dishes are made with the freshest Icelandic ingredients available. Whether you re going for the buffet or ordering from the menu, be sure to leave room for dessert. Blueberry skyr, rhubarb crumble, doublechocolate cake and deep fried ice cream all make for the perfect ending to an enjoyable meal restaurantreykjavik.is It is Time... to visit Iceland. The black beaches of the south coast, calm of the East Fjords, wildlife of North Iceland, seals of the Westfjords, waterfalls of West Iceland, mosscovered lava of Reykjanes, colorful volcanoes of the highlands, not to forget the glaciers, a world of their own. Iceland is waiting. Compiled by Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir, Júlíana Björnsdóttir and Zoë Robert. Photos by Páll Stefánsson and Páll Kjartansson. 90 ICELAND REVIEW

2 Wonders of the West With glaciers, volcanoes, rhyolite mountains, lava fields, spectacular rock formations, white sand beaches, fjords, islands, rivers, lakes and green valleys, as well as a rich historical heritage, West Iceland really has it all. Just an hour north of Reykjavík, the region is within easy reach and filled with activities in both summer and winter. Also don t miss out on a visit to Snæfellsnes National Park. Snæfellsnes Circle Snæfellsjökull glacier. Stykkishólmur Nature and Culture All in One Stykkishólmur, on the Snæfellsnes Circle, is a beautiful town on the shores of Breiða fjörður Bay. Among its attractions are the islands, shaped by rough seas and with the exception of Flatey, inhabited only by flocks of seabirds. Two museums are dedicated to the primal forces that dominate Icelandic nature: fire and water. The Volcano Museum features artifacts and objects from the collection of volcanologist Haraldur Sigurðsson. The heart of town is a living museum of historical houses and home to the heritage museum The Norwegian House. Outdoor activities include a swimming pool and golf course. The town was named a European Destination of Excellence in westiceland.is Grundarfjörður Fjord of Meadows The small coastal town of Grundarfjörður on the Snæfellsnes Circle is embraced by a tall mountain range and a scenic fjord. The breathtaking and majestic Kirkjufell mountain and the wild Atlantic provide an escape to an idyllic world of rural serenity. The town is vibrant with activities such as golf, fishing, hiking and horseback riding. There are also shooting grounds and an exhibition featuring relics of childhood from an impoverished past to prosperous modernity in Eyrbryggja. A Viking Village in the town center is the venue for Viking plays and a market. westiceland.is Snæfellsbær Dancing Auroras and Nature ExtraordinaIre The Snæfellsbær municipality covers an area of 684 km 2 (264 mi 2 ) across the Snæfellsnes Circle and includes the charming fishing communities of Ólafsvík, Rif and Hellis sandur and the surrounding countryside. Attractions include several museums, whale watching, glacier tours and spectacular nature. The one-street village of Rif is perhaps a peculiar place for a theater but it has proven popular among visiting theater groups and artists. The most spectacular sight, though, is the northern lights as seen in the close vicinity of the imperial Snæfells jökull glacier. westiceland.is Stykkishólmur harbor Kirkjufell mountain. Snæfellsbær. Northern lights above Bjarnarhöfn. Malarrif lighthouse. Whales can be spotted off Snæfellsnes. YOUR HOME ON HOLIDAY Grundar örður Tel: framnes@hotelframnes.is VIKINGSUSHI ADVENTURE NATURE, BIRDLIFE AND SCALLOP TASTING ON SEA seatours@seatours.is Tel: Experience our nature Sea angling Bird watching Wild life experience Whale watching Ólafsvík harbour - Tours Mon-Sun At 13:30pm -Tickets sold on board Tel: nesvargar@simnet.is Tourist Market handicraft - gifts and souvenirs steinahans@simnet.is Tel: (354) Theme- Makes your vacation worth it! oli@theme-travel.is Tel: (354) Narfeyrarstofa Restaurant Narfeyrarstofa Local food in the heart of Stykkishólmur Snjófell, Arnarstapi Tel // Guide tel // snjofell@snjofell.is 92 ICELAND REVIEW ICELAND REVIEW 93

3 Wonders of the West Borgarfjörður and Dalir Circles Eiríksstaðir in Dalir. Wild WestFjords TIME magazine were certainly on to something when they named Iceland s Westfjords one of the world s best-kept secrets, describing the landscape as having a palpable supernatural spirit. One could spend weeks discovering all that this stunning and remote region has to offer, from Europe s largest bird cliff to the red sands of Rauðasandur to the quirky museums and unrivaled wild hiking. Reykholt. Borgarnes swimming pool. BorgarFJÖRÐUR From Cliff to Crater The region of Borgarfjörður is delightful in summer and glorious in winter. The setting of the epic Egils Saga, the area is a feast for saga lovers, who should not miss out on a visit to the Settlement Center and Edda s World in Borgarnes. The region s commercial center is also popular for its breathtaking views of the sun setting over the Atlantic, tall cliffs and large swimming pool. Húsafell and the area surrounding the crater Grábrók make for ideal hiking destinations while Saga author Snorri Sturluson s home and private hot tub can be visited in Reykholt. westiceland.is DalIR Land of Literary Legends The small agricultural region of Dalir is home to history. Eiríksstaðir in Haukadalur valley is the birthplace of Leifur Eiríksson ( Leif the Lucky ), the Viking who discovered North America. Leifshús in the community of Búðardalur houses an exhibition celebrating Leifur s early discovery. Hiking paths are marked all over the municipality and one of the more popular destinations is the pool Laugar in the valley of Sælingsdalur featured in the Saga of Laxdæla. Also visit Hjarðarholt church, the country s first by an Icelandic architect. westiceland.is Hraunfossar in Hvítá River. 94 ICELAND REVIEW Arnarfjörður

4 Wild WestFjords One of the world s best-kept secrets. From the Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft, Hólmavík. Reykhólahreppur Man and Nature Reykhólahreppur, including the village of Reykhólar, extends across the southernmost region of the Westfjords and into the beautiful bay of Breiðafjörður. Among the village s attractions are the salt and seaweed baths at the SeaHouse Spa and the Boat and Gift of Nature exhibition, which serves as a reminder of Breiðarfjörður s rich birdlife the area is home to eider duck colonies and marine riches, from seals to seaweed. Hiking trails are abundant and accommodation options diverse, from camping to farmhouse and apartments. The Reykhóladagar festival is held in July. Súðavíkurhreppur Sweet Dreams Súðavík is located at the mouth of Álftafjörður, just 20 minutes from Ísafjörður. Attractions include the Arctic Fox Center and annual International Blueberry Festival, this year August The local church was built in 1899 at Hesteyri in Jökulfirðir. When the village was abandoned in 1963, the church was moved to its new destination. Súðavík is made up of two districts, old and new, as the town was rebuilt further south of its original location after being struck by an avalanche in Ögur, an hour s drive east along the scenic coastal road from Súðavík, is a base for kayak and hiking tours in the fjords. sudavik.is Reykhólahreppur. Súðavík. Vesturbyggð Go West At a length of 14 m (46 ft) and 440 m (1,440 ft) high, Látrabjarg is Europe s largest bird cliff, home to millions of birds, puffins, northern gannets, guillemots and razorbills, and the continent s westernmost point. Another popular destination in Vesturbyggð municipality is the reddish sand beach of Rauðasandur. Activities are aplenty with tours by bike, jeep and boat on offer, along with sea angling and whale watching. Restaurants can be found in Patreksfjörður and Bíldudalur with the former town boasting a brand new hotel. ers with kids should be sure to visit the Icelandic Sea Monster Museum and Pirate House, not to forget Samúel s Art Museum in Selárdalur. vesturbyggd.is Strandabyggð Scenes of the Supernatural The largest town in the Strandir region, Hólmavík, is well worth a visit for its surrounding natural beauty, and uniquely, its history of witchcraft and sorcery. The town is home to the Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft, providing an introduction into the darker side of 17 th century Iceland. If witches are not quite your thing, the nearby Sheep Farming Museum, paying homage to the local way of life, is also recommended. Offering all the necessary facilities, the town makes for the perfect base for day tours either by car or on foot along the many marked trails. After a long day, Café Riis, housed in the oldest building in town, provides a welcoming setting for a meal. Patreksfjörður harbor, Vesturbyggð. Hólmavík, Strandabyggð. Tálknafjarðahreppur Hiking Hotspot Nestled in the 15-km (9-mile) long fjord of the same name, the fishing village of Tálknafjörður is placed in a dramatic setting. Flanked by steep mountains on both sides, home to rich birdlife and with the trout and char river Botnsá streaming into the fjord, the area makes for an ideal hiking destination. Fishing is still the lifeblood of the community but the industry has expanded into aquaculture and sea angling trips, popular with visitors. The pride of every Icelandic town and village, the local swimming pool, can be found next to the well-serviced camping ground. There are natural hot springs too, just outside town. Bolungarvík Fishing Station with a View Having been built up around the country s oldest fishing station, Bolungarvík is home to the unique maritime museum Ósvör where visitors can step back in time and experience the realities faced by fishermen in open rowboats in wild seas at the turn of the last century. Today still, fishing is the town s main industry. The nearby Skálavík cove is a paradise for outdoor recreation and hikers who make it up the town s landmark mountain Bolafjall are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the long and wide fjord Ísafjarðardjúp. Afterwards, a relaxing soak in the local swimming pool one of the best in the Westfjords is in order. Kaldrananeshreppur Rural Paradise Kaldrananeshreppur municipality includes the hamlet of Drangsnes and surrounding rural area. Located in the outer Steingrímsfjörður fjord, it only takes ten minutes to sail from Drangsnes to Grímsey island, which used to be inhabited but is now mainly home to birds about 30,000 puffin couples nest on the island. Tourists can also go on sea angling tours and afterwards take a relaxing soak in the region s innovative hot tubs on the beach, fed by hot water straight from the ground, or in the local swimming pool. There are also many opportunities for walks and hikes, the region s highest mountain being Kaldbakshorn, plunging vertically into Kaldbaksvík cove. drangsnes.is Árneshreppur Where the Road Ends Árneshreppur, bordering on the now abandoned Hornstrandir region, is the definition of a destination off the beaten path. The rural community of 50 can be reached by a narrow gravel road practically hewn into vertical sea cliffs. Eagle Air also offers flights to Gjögur. The region has a hotel in Djúpavík, guesthouses, cottages, campsites and a store in Norðurfjörður, from where sea tours are also offered. Come trek in a unique environment, admire the spectacular mountain Rekjaneshyrna and rock pillars Drangaskörð, and take a dip in the pool right on the beach at Krossnes where the waves of the Arctic Ocean crash against the shore. westfjords.is Tálknafjörður. Drangsnes, Kaldrananeshreppur. 96 ICELAND REVIEW Ósvör in Bolungarvík. Veiðileysufjörður, Árneshreppur.

5 Adventure in Ísafjörður The greater Ísafjörður area, encompassing the fishing villages of Hnífsdalur in the north, and Suðureyri, Flateyri and Þingeyri in the west, is the gateway to a region rich in history and wild nature waiting to be discovered. The largest town in the Westfjords, Ísafjörður (pop. 2,600), is located in Skutulsfjörður in the larger fjord Ísafjarðardjúp in the extreme northwest corner of Iceland. Popular year round for its rich culture, local delicacies and proximity to nature, the town is an increasingly popular addition to one s trip to Iceland. Vibrant Culture and awesome nature Despite its remote location, the town is connected with daily flights and a host of festivals, including the annual Aldrei fór ég suður ( I never went south ) free music festival over the Easter weekend. Filled with colorful old houses of all shapes and sizes, the town s rich architectural heritage is also a drawcard. Ample opportunities await the adventure enthusiast, not least for the magnificent Hornstrandir Nature Reserve in the north. Accessible from Ísafjörður only by boat, a visit to the reserve and Hornbjarg, one of the largest seabird colonies in the North Atlantic, in particular makes for an unforgettable day trip or a multi-day hike. Also on the must-visit list is the impressive Dynjandi waterfall lying to Ísafjörður s south, cascading from a height of 100 m (330 ft).and over winter, snow sports including unrivaled off-piste skiing and snowboarding and glacier hiking keep the town buzzing. When it comes to food, there s plenty of regional delights to be had, like the catch of the day served at the region s many restaurants. Hiking paradise and saga sites The village of Suðureyri, a 20-minute drive from Ísafjörður to the northwest, has a rugged beauty typical of the westernmost part of Iceland. Like other coastal villages, Suðureyri is a village built on fish but is fast becoming a tourist hotspot. The town offers a host of activities year-round from sea angling to berry picking, guided walks and cooking classes. In Flateyri, about the same distance from Ísafjörður, you ll find ample hiking trails, as well as a museum tracing the village s history, including the avalanche which claimed the lives of 20 people in Fifty kilometers (30 miles) from Ísafjörður, Þingeyri, which features in one of Iceland s most famous sagas, Gísla saga Súrssonar, should be next on your itinerary. The village hosts the annual Dýrafjörður Viking Festival in July. There s more good news for hikers too; Kaldbakur (998 m/3,274 ft), the Westfjord s highest mountain, and its surrounding valleys offer unlimited opportunities. Horse and bicycle rentals are also available. But don t just take others word for it; the region is the recipient of a European Destinations of Excellence 2010 award and was chosen as one of the ten world s most interesting regions to visit by Lonely Planet. isafjordur.is Ísafjörður. Þingeyri. Neðstikaupstaður, Ísafjörður. 98 ICELAND REVIEW Dynjandi waterfall. Eat well. ICELAND REVIEW 99

6 The Amazing Arctic North A vast and diverse region, North Iceland stretches from Hrútafjörður fjord in the west to Langanes peninsula in the east, including islands, highlands, hot springs, waterfalls, glacial rivers and volcanoes. Blessed by the midnight sun in summer, in winter the region transforms into a paradise for skiers and those on the hunt for northern lights. The new Blönduós pool. Dettifoss waterfall. Blönduós A River Runs Through It Dalvíkurbyggð Never a Dull Moment Named after its location, where the glacial river Blanda one of the top ten salmon fishing rivers in Iceland mouths into Húnaflói Bay, Blönduós is the largest town in the region with almost 1,000 inhabitants. Conveniently placed between Reykjavík and Akureyri on the Ring Road, Blönduós is a popular stop along the way. However, there are plenty of reasons to stay. The town has cafés and restaurants, a golf course and brand-new swimming pool. It s also home to the Sea Ice Exhibition Center, including information on polar bears that drift to the country, and the Icelandic Textile Center, an inspiration for artists and designers. Located near the mouth of the fjord Eyjafjörður with a glorious mountain view, the seaside town of Dalvík offers diverse recreation for tourists. It s one of the best places in the country for whale watching and in the surrounding countryside, which is part of the Dalvíkurbyggð municipality, there are numerous opportunities for walks and hikes. Visitors crowd Dalvík for the Great Fish Day, a free food festival in the second weekend of August, and in winter, to go skiing in the local Böggvisstaðafjall resort. Tourism is a growing industry in the region, accommodation is easy to find and activities aplenty, year-round. dalvikurbyggd.is Glaumbær museum, Skagafjörður. Skagaströnd. Húsavík. Skagaströnd A Hidden Treasure Legend has it that Þórdís the Prophetess, one of the first settlers of Skagaströnd, walked up the 646-m (2,120-ft) high Spákonufell ( Prophetess Hill ) every day and hid a treasure in the mountain. The local Museum of Prophecies is dedicated to her. Spákonufell is popular among hikers and there also are many other opportunities for walks in the region. Skagaströnd is known for its love of cowboys and country music with the restaurant Kántrýbær being a frequented pit stop. There s also an artist residency in town and fishing enthusiasts are drawn to the abundance of lakes in the vicinity. Skagafjörður Action-Packed Adventure Be it rafting on glacial rivers or heli-skiing in steep mountains, visitors to Skagafjörður are in for an adrenaline boost. Horseback riding, easy and challenging treks, sightseeing tours of all kind, sea angling, fishing in lakes and rivers, sharpshooting, archery, bird hunting, golfing and skiing at the Tindastóll resort by Sauðárkrókur are also an option Skagafjörður has activities for all, year-round. A soak in one of the region s many pools or natural hot springs is a must; in Hofsós swimmers have a view of the island Drangey. Also visit the sites of Sturlunga saga, turf farm museum Glaumbær, Icelandic Horse Center and Icelandic Beer Center. Opportunities are endless. visitskagafjordur.is Eyjafjarðarsveit The Ultimate Countryside Experience Once you ve reached Akureyri, the capital of the north, keep driving inland along the river Eyjafjarðará and enter Eyjafjarðarsveit, a green and peaceful countryside with quite a few surprises. Drop by the Christmas Garden for an all-year cheer and to learn about Icelandic Yule traditions, take a relaxing soak in the Hrafnagil swimming pool and afterwards have a farm-made ice cream at Holtssel. Further along the 50-km (31-mile) long valley you find a museum with a quirky and curious collection and on the other side of the river lies Kaffi Kú, a café literally inside a cowshed, and the popular raw-food restaurant Silva. Húsavík Whale Capital of Europe In the scenic seaside village of Húsavík, life is all about whales. It s a base for research of marine mammals and with more than 60,000 tourists going whale watching there annually, Húsavík has earned a reputation for being the Whale Capital of Europe. The spotting rate for whales is the highest in the country with humpbacks, minkes and dolphins regularly being sighted, and even the elusive blue whales sometimes make an appearance. Húsavík is, in fact, one of the few places in the world where one can hope to spot the planet s largest animal. Visiting the Húsavík Whale Museum is also a must. visithusavik.com northiceland.is 100 ICELAND REVIEW Grund, Eyjafjarðarsveit. Dalvík. Málmey island, Skagafjörður. Northern lights in Eyjafjarðarsveit. ICELAND REVIEW 101

7 The Amazing Arctic North Mývatn Natural Wonders and Living Legends Lake Mývatn and the surrounding area is a natural paradise, teeming with birdlife in the summer and a frozen wonderland in winter. Tourists are drawn to the eerie black lava fields of Dimmuborgir, colorful geothermal area Hverarönd by Námafjall with its steaming hot springs and bubbling mud pools, and tuff ring volcano Hverfjall, to name but a few attractions. Events take place in the region year-round, including a dog-sledding race, horse show on ice, classical concert series, sheep roundup, walks and a marathon. On Midsummer Night and in the Christmas season, the legendary 13 Yule Lads welcome visitors to their home in Dimmuborgir, which is especially popular among kids. visitmyvatn.is northiceland.is Lake Mývatn. Hverarönd by Mývatn. Goðafoss waterfall. Being the largest municipality in Iceland outside the capital region with 18,000 inhabitants, Akureyri is, in essence, a small town with a big city atmosphere. Boasting a number of museums, galleries, shops, restaurants, cafés, clubs and concert venues, the local art and music scene is bustling and the town is home to the country s only professional theater outside Reykjavík. The culture center Hof at the harbor has a varied program and also facilitates the North Iceland tourist information office. On warm summer days of which there have been plenty this year there are few things more enjoyable than having a cold drink in the sun at one of the cafés or eateries in the heart of town, or taking a stroll with an ice cream in hand. The tiny ice Summer Bliss and Winter Delights The Capital of the North welcomes visitors in all seasons. Akureyri has a lively culture scene and activities are abundant. NÁTTÚRUFEGURÐ & FRIÐUR GÓÐUR MATUR & ÞÆGINDI Taxi-no17 Tour Service - Adventure in North Iceland Personal tour service all year around. Goðafoss waterfall, Lake Mývatn, Dettifoss waterfall, Askja volcano, Northern Lights and more. We do our best to make your dream come true! Hótel Reynihlíð, 660 Mývatn - Tel: bookings@myvatnhotel.is - taxi-no17.com taxi@taxi-no17.com Tel: (Auðun) or (Rikky) The hottest spot in Akureyri Downtown Akureyri. cream parlor Brynja in Innbærinn, the oldest part of town, is a local favorite. Locals also frequent the Botanical Garden in good weather, go cycling, walking or playing with their kids in the forest Kjarnaskógur outside town, or sunbathe at the swimming pool. Golfing and hiking are also popular choices for outdoor recreation. Visitors can choose between a variety of tours on foot, by bus, jeep, boat, horse, sea or air, go sea angling or whale watching. In winter, the landscape transforms with a cover of powder snow. Locals and visitors crowd the ski resort Hlíðarfjall it only takes about ten minutes to reach the lifts. After darkness falls, the northern lights often come out, a major attraction among visitors to North Iceland. Two inhabited islands are part of the Akureyri municipality. Dubbed the Pearl of Eyjafjörður, Hrísey has been a nature reserve since 1977, famous for its varied birdlife and vegetation. It takes 15 minutes to reach the island from Árskógssandur (a halfan-hour s drive from Akureyri) by ferry. Grímsey, Iceland s northernmost inhabited island, which lies on the Arctic Circle, can be reached by a three-hour ferry ride from Dalvík (a little further than Árskógssandur), or by air from Akureyri. Also a paradise for bird lovers, its sea cliffs are filled with nesting puffins, guillemots and other seabirds in the summer ICELAND REVIEW ICELAND REVIEW 103

8 Unique Natural Paradise East Iceland includes unique and diverse landscapes from the edge of Vatnajökull, Europe s largest glacier, to the beaches of long and narrow fjords: barren highlands, steep mountains, vast sand plains, natural hot springs, magnificent waterfalls, forested valleys, desolate fjords and lively towns and villages with extensive services for tourists. Fljótsdalshérað Embracing the Highlands Stretching from the sandy beaches of Héraðssandar to the mighty Vatnajökull glacier in the highlands, the region Fljótsdalshérað covers ten percent of the country s landmass but is home to only 3,900 people, most of whom live in Egilsstaðir, the region s capital. The glacial river Lagarfljót, famous for the serpent Lagarfljótsormurinn (akin to the Loch Ness Monster), flows through the entire region. The landscape is diverse, offering endless opportunities for activities in summer and winter. Part of Vatnajökull National Park with its ice caves, rugged mountains, geothermal areas and wild reindeer lies within the region s borders. In winter, it s the perfect place to view the northern lights. fljotsdalsherad.is Breiðdalshreppur More than Meets the Eye Home to fewer than 200 people, Breiðdalsvík is not the sleepy seaside village one might think at first glance. Breiðdalsvík boasts five hotels, all of which have restaurants, a café, workshop, gift store, bank, post office and other institutes. Attracted by the village s friendly and lively atmosphere, tourists go fishing in the river Breiðdalsá in Breiðdaur valley and lakes that lie within the borders of the Breiðdalshreppur municipality. Horseback riding and guided tours of the region are popular too. Accommodation is also provided in cottages and by farmhouses in the surrounding countryside and a free campsite is located in the center of the village. breiddalur.is The 34 eggs in Gleðivík, Djúpivogur. Seyðisfjörður Artistic Inspiration Djúpavogshreppur Nice and Slow Seyðisfjörður. Nestled in the long and deep fjord of the same name, surrounded on all sides by high mountains, Seyðisfjörður makes the ideal location for Tvísöngur, a sound sculpture by German artist Lukas Kühne, unveiled in Year-round, a number of artists are based in Seyðisfjörður, some of whom come through the Skaftfell Center for Visual Art s artist-in-residence program. The LungA art festival is a week-long event for young artists held every summer and from 2014, the LungA art school will open in town. There are several other festivals, exhibitions and workshops to choose from in Seyðisfjörður, a must-visit destination in Iceland, according to Lonely Planet. visitseydisfjordur.com Fjarðabyggð just wonderful The Djúpavogshreppur municipality of 460 inhabitants, including the town Djúpivogur and surrounding rural area, became the first in Iceland to obtain a Cittaslow certification, pledging to demonstrate great hospitality, emphasize local food and locally-made products. Tourism is growing with tours to Papey island being popular and bird watching on the rise the southeastern corner of the country is where migratory birds first arrive. Thirty-four granite sculptures by renowned artist Sigurður Guðmundsson line the pier in Gleðivík at the Djúpivogur harbor, each of which represents the egg of a bird that breeds in the area. The size and shape of each sculpture corresponds with the egg it represents. djupivogur.is Atlavík by Lagarfljót. Comprising of six picturesque towns and villages, including Reyðarfjörður, Eskifjörður and Neskaupstaður, nestled in narrow fjords at the foot of steep mountains, Fjarðabyggð offers a friendly small-town atmosphere and a wonderful experience of genuine Icelandic fishing villages. Each settlement has its own characteristics, reflected in local restaurants, cafés, galleries and handicraft. The region also has first-class swimming pools, noteworthy museums, three golf courses and extensive services for tourists. Tour operators specialize in the versatile experience of Icelandic nature. In winter, visitors can go skiing at the local resort. Find your favorite hotel, guesthouse or campsite and enjoy an unlimited access to wonderful natural treasures. east.is The pool in Eskifjörður. 104 ICELAND REVIEW Breiðdalshreppur. Eskifjörður, Fjarðabyggð. ICELAND REVIEW 105

9 Great Southern Land South Iceland has everything tourists might hope to experience: glaciers, waterfalls, hot springs, volcanoes, highlands, northern lights and saga sites. There s a reason why the drive along the southern coast of Iceland is on the to-do lists of most tourists who visit the country. The views are diverse and stunning, from the geothermal area on Hellisheiði mountain pass, to grazing horses in the peaceful countryside, the gleaming Eyjafjallajökull glacier, majestic waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, magnificent arch of Dyrhólaey promontory, striking black beaches of Reynisfjara and eerie sea stacks Reynisdrangar. Not to mention the otherworldly floating icebergs of Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. The massive icecap of Vatnajökull the largest glacier in Europe looms over Höfn, and glacial tours, be it by foot, ski-doo, jeep or helicopter, are not to be missed. Also, tours to the glacier s elusive ice caves are quickly becoming a new hype. In the height of summer, bird lovers flock to nature reserves Dyrhólaey and Ingólfshöfði, fend off attacks from the aggressive great skuas the region s emblem bird and admire the industrious puffins as they dive from their burrows in the cliffs to fetch fish for their young. That s not all. Away from the shore lie the region s most-visited attractions, including the famous Golden Circle tour. At Þing vellir National Park, you ll find the site where Iceland s parliament was founded in 930 AD, Almannagjá that separates the Eurasian and North American continental plates and the crystal clear lake Silfra, a huge hit among divers. Further along lies the geothermal area with the erupting hot spring Geysir, after which all other geysers are named; its little brother Strokkur entertains visitors by spurting hot water into the air at approximately ten-minute intervals. Close by is the Queen of Iceland s Waterfalls, Gullfoss, a breathtaking cascade of 32 m (105 ft). The Golden Circle tour can also be extended to include Lake Laugarvatn with Fontana Geothermal Baths and a view of Hekla volcano, ancient bishopric Skálholt, crater lake Kerið and greenhouse and horse farm Friðheimar. In the southern highlands you ll find the colorful geothermal area Landmannalaugar with its natural pools, frequented by hikers headed for the Laugavegur route. The landscape changes dramatically during the four-day trek, from rhyolite mountains, to a placid highland lake and the green forested valley of Þórsmörk with a view of the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull. The close proximity to nature is just one of the reasons people visit South Iceland; the region is also becoming a hot spot for culture tourism. The Icelandic Saga Center at Hvolsvöllur is dedicated to Njáls saga, offering tours to the sites where the saga is set. All roads lead to South Iceland. Apart from the Ring Road, the region is accessible by Suðurstrandavegur, along the coast from Reykjanes peninsula, through Þingvellir National Park and from the highlands. It only takes 30 minutes to travel by ferry from Landeyjahöfn to the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago and 50 minutes to take the plane from Reykjavík to Höfn. There s always something to see and do in South Iceland in summer and winter the northern lights are only visible in the dark season so indulge yourself and start planning your trip. south.is; winterwonderland.is photo courtesy of Visit South Iceland A waterfall on the Fjallabak highland route. Soaking in a natural hot spring. photo courtesy of Visit South Iceland Northern lights above Lake Þingvallavatn. There are plenty of horse riding opportunities in South Iceland. 106 ICELAND REVIEW Geysir geothermal area. Hiking near Vatnajökull glacier. ICELAND REVIEW 107 photo courtesy of Visit South Iceland

10 Islands Extraordinaire There s more to Vestmannaeyjar than volcanoes and puffins. The friendly island community of Heimaey welcomes visitors, offering a range of tourism services and diverse tours for those eager to explore the archipelago s spectacular nature. The Vestmannaeyjar ( Westman Islands ) archipelago consists of 15 islands. Home to 4,200 people, Heimaey is the only one which is inhabited. In 1973 the Eldfell volcanic eruption buried 400 houses in lava and ash and threatened to bring life on the island to an end but most inhabitants returned to rebuild their community. The effects of the eruption are still present. Signposts with names of vanished streets have been placed in the new lava, the tables at the cozy café Vinaminni are dedicated to lost neighborhoods and the people who lived there, pillars around town indicate how high the ash level was at the end of the eruption and the volcano Eldfell blocks the view that islanders used to have of Iceland s southern coast and Eyjafjallajökull glacier. Eldfell makes an easy and recommendable hike. It s fascinating to stand in the crater which 40 years ago wreaked so much havoc and observe steam still coming out of its lukewarm rim. The local Heritage Museum runs an exhibition about the eruption and next year, Eldheimar, a new museum dedicated to the event, is set to open. Built around the remains of a house dug out of pumice, the museum will also include a multimedia exhibition about the Eldfell eruption and an information center about Surtsey. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the archipelago s youngest and southernmost island, created in an underwater eruption It has since been preserved as a living laboratory. Vestmannaeyjar are also famous for their birdlife, particularly the puffin, which has become somewhat of a mascot for the islanders. The world s largest puffin colony is in Vestmannaeyjar, numbering millions of birds. Bird watching tours are inevitably popular among visitors to Heimaey, as are sightseeing tours by sea and air, walks, horseback riding and sea angling. Golfers favor the island s unusual 18-hole golf course with the annual Icelandair Volcano Open, a two-day international golf tournament in early July, attracting amateur players. The town also has a number of restaurants and cafés, hotels, guesthouses, a campsite and swimming pool. Boasting the second-largest fishing station in the country, fisheries remain the main industry on Heimaey. This reality of Vestmannaeyjar proved an inspiration for Hulda Hákon, one of Iceland s most accomplished artists, who chose to base her studio on Heimaey. Her exhibition Birds, Sea, House, People, Ship, Sunshine and Fish, which runs through August 11 at the local Freemasons building, includes wall reliefs of mackerel and trawler Sigurður VE. The ocean that surrounds the islands and the creatures inhabiting it are also the theme of Sæheimar, the only aquarium in Iceland. At a distance of 8 km (5 miles) from the mainland, Heimaey can be reached by ferry in only 30 minutes from Landeyjahöfn. Flights are also offered by Eagle Air from Reykjavík. The unique islands are just waiting to be explored, so what are you waiting for? vestmannaeyjar.is/en/visit The new lava and the town. From the harbor. The two volcanoes, Eldfell and Helgafell. Skansinn museum seabirds can t be wrong! Boat tours Bus tours Sightseeing Come and join us for a day to remember Tour Operator info@ribsafari.is Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board Hulda Hákon s art exhibition opening. View of Vestmannaeyjar. 108 ICELAND REVIEW ICELAND REVIEW 109

11 Coastal Gems Nowhere else in the world than on Reykjanes peninsula can you view the Mid-Atlantic Ridge at sea level. Vast lunar-like landscapes, black-sand beaches and the turquoise geothermal waters of the Blue Lagoon are products of the region s unique volcanic history. Reykjanes rich historical heritage and remnants from World War II also attract visitors. With Keflavík International Airport being placed on Reykjanes, your adventure in Iceland starts and ends here. Northern lights above Lake Kleifarvatn. Vogar Garður Lighthouse Community Garður. Sandgerði. The Blue Lagoon. Víkingaheimar Viking museum, Reykjanesbær. At an equally short distance from the airport, this small but colorful community has a range of leisure activities and destinations on offer, including a golf course, thermal pool and two lighthouses. One of these is a base for the Icelandic Marine Research Institute s study of the breeding and behavior of whales in the area and the other houses the local folk museum and a restaurant with a coastal view. Take a walk along the coast, perfect for bird watching, and whales and seals can sometimes be spotted there too. svgardur.is Grindavík Bustling with Life Grindavík attracts foreign and Icelandic tourists alike with activities and services ranging from hiking, bird watching, horseback riding, volcano excursions, Arctic char fishing and cave sightings. You can also follow the marked pathway from the town to the Blue Lagoon. Gems of nature in the vicinity include the extraordinary Eldvörp preservation area, two-century old fishing outfits of Selatangar, Gunnuhver hot spring, unusual lava rock formations on the shores of Brimketill and the Reykjanesviti lighthouse. A short drive from Grindavík lies the geothermal area Krýsuvík and Lake Kleifarvatn, the setting for one of Arnaldur Indriðason s crime novels. visitgrindavik.is Sandgerði Little Big Fishing Port Monuments and remains in the municipality of Sandgerði bid homage to its long tradition of fishing and significance during World War II. In 1868, a Viking grave was found near Sandgerði one of the most notable archaeological finds in Iceland. The town s oldest house, dating back to 1883, stands by the Sandgerði pond, home to migratory birds, and further down the road lies Hvalneskirkja church, built from lava rocks from the peninsula, where Hallgrímur Pétursson, composer of the Passion Hymns, served as priest. Located only about 5 km (8 miles) from Keflavík International Airport, Sandgerði is a destination within reach. sandgerdi.is Reykjanesbær Bridge between Continents Right next to the airport lies the fifth largest municipality in Iceland, Reykjanesbær, comprised of the towns Keflavík, Njarðvík and Hafnir. A former U.S. military base within its borders, Reykjanesbær also has a literal bridge between two continents across the rift where the Eurasian and North American continental plates meet. Known for its lava landscape and bubbling hot springs, a walk in the surrounding area is quite an extraordinary experience. An art and culture center is operated in Duushús, old stores and fish processing plants at the marina, and Víkingaheimar, a museum facilitating a replica of a Viking ship and five exhibits, is not to be missed either. reykjanesbaer.is Vogar Old-Time Charm Vogar is a charming little town with 1,100 inhabitants, situated in-between Reykjavík and Keflavík International Airport. For examples of the area s diverse nature, visit the coast of Vatnsleysuströnd, the grassy plains of Höskuldarvellir, the palagonite Keilir mountain and Lambafellsgjá ravine, as well as exploring its numerous hiking options. For alternative activities, Vogar has a golf course and swimming pool. Accommodation includes Hotel Vogar and a new camping ground. Once a thriving port, food production is now the town s main industry. visitreykjanes.is The bridge between two continents. Krýsuvík. Vitinn is the perfect seafood restaurant to start or end your trip in Iceland and it is only 7 minutes drive away from Keflavik airport. Our speciality is our one of a kind Crab and shellfish-feast and has been very popular among our guests. Vitatorg 7, 245 Sandgerdi, Reykjanes - Phone Mobile vitinn@vitinn.is ICELAND REVIEW ICELAND REVIEW 111