Journal of Gallipoli trip April Name: Geraldine Carrodus

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1 Journal of Gallipoli trip April 2011 Name: Geraldine Carrodus 1

2 Days 1 and 2 This amazing adventure began with a very smooth trip courtesy of Singapore Airlines. We arrived in Istanbul at about 8am local time. Although few had slept, Andrew and Stuart urged us to push through the sleep barrier, and had planned a full day s activity to keep us going and beat jet lag. Breaking the journey at Singapore From the bus we had our first glimpses of the historic city of Istanbul, a city that spans many empires, cultures, religions and architectural styles. It was a little disconcerting at first to be on a busy, traffic choked modern street, looking up at a Roman aqueduct which passed overhead. Roman ruins are everywhere, mosques dominate the skyline and traditional bazaars and markets ply their trade as they have done for centuries, but this is still very much a vibrant 21 st century city. Our charming hotel, the Hotel Antik was situated in the old part of the city, on a quaint cobbled street close to the Grand Bazaar. Renovations in the 1980s uncovered the remains of an ancient Roman cistern (water storage) below the hotel. This has now been adapted to become the Hotel s restaurant. It was difficult to believe, as we gathered there each morning for delicious rolls and pastries that we were sitting in an important part of the sophisticated water supply system developed by the Romans more than 1,500 years ago. After our first delicious Turkish meal we enjoyed a boat trip on the Bosphorus, the strip of water that divides the city of Istanbul and also separates Europe from Asia. As with any beautiful waterway, the shores are lined with Government buildings, palaces and luxurious private dwellings. It is said that some of the most expensive real estate in Europe and Asia can be found along the Bosphorus coastline. 2

3 Boating on the Bosphorus Our last visit on day one, as we continued to push through the jet lag barrier was the spectacular Military museum. It was here that we gained our first real insights into the rich and complex history of Istanbul. The museum contains a World War 1 Gallery which paid attention to the Gallipoli campaign and was amazingly sympathetic to the Australian experience. However, it was difficult not to see these events as a tiny speck among the thousands of years of military, cultural, religious and social upheavals of our host country. Fabulous dioramas, life size models of warriors on horseback and vast paintings told the story of Istanbul. Even if we could not absorb every detail, the message was clear that this was a society with a long and rich heritage. The team at the Military Museum Dinner at the Hotel Antik was another feast and a reassurance that we would certainly not go hungry during our time in Turkey. Despite the overall lethargy, a lively political discussion (argument) erupted. It was a clear indication that despite what may be said about some of 3

4 the attitudes of modern youth, our Simpson kids have lively minds and could enjoy a good verbal stoush. It was to be the first of many such verbal battles, which became quite heated but were always resolved with good grace and good humour. Finally.sleep! Day 3 Our first full day in Istanbul gave us further insights into Turkish culture and religion, as well as our initial foray into the serious business of shopping. On the bus, Ozgur our Turkish guide gave us some background on the sites that we were to see that day the Hippodrome, the Blue Mosque and the famous Topkapi Palace, home of the Sultans. The Hippodrome dates to Byzantine times and was the scene of chariot races in the time of Constantine. In several places, excavation sites show the extent to which the ground level has been raised over the past 1500 years. We noticed a number of stray but healthy looking dogs in the square. Ozgur told us that these dogs are the responsibility of the local government which makes sure that they are immunised. They are fed by the locals and do not seem to cause any trouble to anyone. There are also cats and kittens everywhere. I am sure that many a Turkish dog and cat will have appeared among the photos taken by the Simpsonites. The Blue Mosque is one of the most spectacular buildings in Istanbul. Built between 1609 and 1616, it is the largest in the city and the only mosque with 6 minarets. In addition to its appeal as a tourist attraction, the Blue Mosque, famous for its beautiful blue tiles, is an important prayer centre for many of the citizens. Ozgur explained the significance of the burial pedestals in the courtyard and the rows of taps where devout Muslims wash their feet before praying. It was suggested that all the girls wear some head covering before entering the mosque. There were plenty of vendors selling scarves and shawls and the girls had their first (very successful) opportunity to practise the art of bargaining. The girls show off their scarves before entering the Blue Mosque Construction of the Topkapi Palace began soon after the conquest of Constantinople (Istanbul) by the Ottoman sultans in It was the home of the Sultans and the centre of power in the Ottoman Empire for nearly 500 years. In the days of the Sultans, mere 4

5 commoners such as ourselves would only have had access to the two outer courtyards, however, we were able to explore the four courtyards and many of the buildings formerly reserved only for those of royal birth. The girls at the entrance to the Sultan s Divan Room in Topkapi Palace There were many stories relating to the buildings and the spectacular treasures housed within the walls of the palace. The gardens were also beautifully planted with varieties of colourful flowers including swathes of tulips. We were surprised to learn that, contrary to popular belief, the tulip is not a native of Holland but originates in Central Asia and was brought to Asia Minor by the Turks in the 15 th century. We revisited the tulip theme that evening at the charming Develi Restaurant, where the waiters entertained us by creating tulips out of serviettes and presenting them to all of the girls and some of the boys. Day 4 Tuesday gave us a range of new insights into the complexity of this fascinating city. We drove along modern streets and down narrow twisting cobbled lanes. How the bus driver managed to negotiate some of these thoroughfares was a mystery to us the crunch of metal on metal must have been avoided by millimetres! We passed sparkling new buildings alongside crumbling city walls from the Byzantine era. We visited a church that dates back to the earliest Christian era and an eccentric collection of memorabilia gathered by one of modern Turkey s wealthiest entrepreneurial families. The Rahmi M Koc Museum of Science and Technology houses an eclectic gathering of items related to Turkish History. Some such as a range of Ataturk memorabilia bear a close and tenable link to Turkey s past. Others including a sparkling collection of vintage vehicles and a London Bus, have a more international provenance. The museum is obviously very popular with Turkish schoolchildren; there were many groups wishing to speak with our students and pose for photos. It was also our first opportunity to hand out some of the Australian koala and kangaroo badges that we had brought as gifts. 5

6 Exactly what you would expect to find in the middle of Istanbul a London Bus! Turkey was in the middle of an election campaign and as we drove along the streets, Ozgur explained some of the complexities of the political system and pointed out the political banners and flags. As we approached Taxim Square, we saw the political reality in action as the square was closed due to a political demonstration. The protesters and riot police seemed to be matched in equal numbers and matters were resolved peacefully. Some of our new friends. Taxim Square is at the head of Istiklal Street one of the longest and most interesting streets in Istanbul. Here is a place to stroll, shop and browse, to eat and to see and be seen. Off to the side of the central artery are arcades and laneways laden with treasures for the eager shopper. We were advised (quite wisely) to do our homework before parting with our money, but a few found bargains too attractive to resist. Zoe and Lauren learnt that showing too much interest in the craft of ice cream production was not a good idea. 6

7 The boys heading off for some retail therapy on Istiklal St. After another excellent three course lunch, we felt the need to walk off the calories, but it was back on the bus to the beautiful and historic Chora Church. Along the way, Ozgur continued to point out sites of significance (some serious and historic; others merely quirky). The station where the fabled Orient Express terminated looks a little shabbier than it might have done in its glory days. Nevertheless, for Agatha Christie devotees (and there were a couple on the bus) it was interesting to see the station and the hotel where the crime writer reputedly wrote her famous mystery. The Chora Church is a charming blend of the early Christian era in Istanbul and the later Islamic influence. Built initially in the 5 th century and meaning country or fields, Chora was originally outside the walls of the city. It has been rebuilt several times over the centuries and reflects the many religious and cultural phases of Istanbul. The church s beautifully simple design is enhanced by exquisite frescoes and mosaics depicting biblical themes. A trip to the famed Spice Market completed the day s activities. By this time we were all becoming comfortable with the business of bargaining. We staggered back to the bus bearing an amazing range of treasures Turkish delight, pashminas, shoes, spices, pashminas, wooden products, jewellery and more pashminas. The total amount saved on these transactions by the whole team would probably pay the debt on a small third world country! 7

8 The Spice Market an abundance of temptations! Home to the Antik for an early night and packing for the next exciting phase of our adventure the journey to Gallipoli. Day 5 It was tempting to think, at the outset of the trip, that this was to be the real start to our experience, but the three days in Istanbul have set the scene for what is to follow. We have been given a glimpse into the long, rich and complex history of Turkey. The events at Gallipoli in 1915, important as they are to the history of our young nation are as a mere blink in the sweep of Turkey s past. Nonetheless, as we approached the Peninsular and had our first glimpse of the Aegean there was a feeling that we were about to experience something very special and indeed we did. JP, Hayley, Connor and Gene would like to have taken the sad camel with us, but there was no room on the bus. 8

9 The journey itself was eventful. An intense debate over religion, a visit to a roadside stop complete with zoo (and a very sad looking camel) and some singing of erratic quality, helped the 5 hour journey to pass quickly. Many commented on the similarity of the countryside to Australia and this impression became stronger as we neared the end of the Gallipoli Peninsular. The Kum Hotel is a rambling complex on the shores of the Aegean Sea, popular in summer as a beach resort for local people. Each year around Anzac day it becomes the headquarters for the many Australians and New Zealanders who visit the peninsular for Anzac Day. The generous hospitality of the local Turkish people was remarked upon by all. At the first of many lovely meals in the cafeteria, we made contact with some of the other groups there for the commemoration a wide range of ages and interests all drawn together in the same purpose. At Beach Cemetery, above Anzac Cove In the afternoon we made our first journey to the battlefields and to the cemeteries where the dead have lain for 95 years. I had thought that it would be enough to stand on the shores of Anzac Cove to evoke the scenes of the landing that I had read about for so long. I had not anticipated the peace and beauty of the setting. To be honest, I found it very difficult to reconcile the tranquillity of that beach in the late afternoon sun, with the stories of bloodshed and carnage on that April morning in It was really only when we sat on the grass in Beach Cemetery, saw the rows of graves and listened to the stories of wasted young lives that the reality of what had happened there could be appreciated. Gene told us the story of his soldier George Hechle, buried in Beach Cemetery and Andrew gave us a fuller insight into the complex character John Simpson Kirkpatrick, in whose memory we had travelled to Turkey. 9

10 The grave of our patron John Simpson Kirkpartick. Back at the Kum we enjoyed a noisy dinner in the convivial dining room before adjourning to the lounge area for card games and backgammon. Sunset over the Aegean from the Kum Hotel Day 6 This was one of the most moving of all the days that we spent on the Gallipoli Peninsular. It was the day that most of the students and teachers presented their stories of dead soldiers each as moving as the last and all poignant reminders of the waste of war. We began the morning with an energetic walk up to Plugge s Plateau. We arrived at that tranquil cemetery we were able to sit in the sun and enjoy spectacular views over the Aegean. Unfortunately, our forefathers had no such luxury; this was merely a brief stop on their daunting journey to the first ridge. Unlike us, they also carried heavy packs and rifles and had to dodge a hail of gunfire as they made their way to the top. 10

11 The Razorback Ridge that confronted the soldiers once they had passed Plugge s Plateau. From Plugge s Plateau we walked on up to the top of the ridge where we could look across at the Sphinx. In beautiful sunshine it was difficult to take in the horror that the soldiers would have faced on that first day of the campaign. As we moved through the cemeteries over the course of the day, we heard the stories of individual soldiers who had perished. The names on the graves came alive and became flesh and blood they were not just names on headstones, they were sons, fathers, brothers, husbands and friends who never had the chance to live to fulfill their dreams. My soldier, John August Emile Harris is buried and Lone Pine. He was only 15 ½ when he enlisted and he died two months before his sixteenth birthday. It is impossible to comprehend how this baby faced soldier was accepted as 18 by the authorities, but these were different times with different values. It is even possible that his parents were complicit in his deception. 11

12 Lauren tells the story of her soldier who is buried at Lone Pine. Near Lone Pine we had the opportunity to walk through the remains of some of the trenches that formed the Australian front line. It was also amazing to see that only the width of a road separated them from the Turkish front line. The trenches have filled up over the years as a result of rain and mudslides. The timber walls of the trenches were apparently removed and used for firewood within months of the evacuation. Inspecting the remnants of a trench while a Channel 9 cameraman records the occasion. One of the most memorable of the many sites that we visited today was The Nek a small flat area no bigger than three tennis courts. It contains the bones of more than 300 Australian soldiers from the 3 rd Light Horse Brigade. Apart from the day of the landing, this was one of the most futile and disastrous battles of the entire campaign. It is the engagement featured in Peter Weir s 1981 movie Gallipoli. 12

13 The whole group at The Nek We also visited one of the Turkish memorials and heard a great deal about Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the father of modern Turkey. Ataturk was the commander of the main division that defended Gallipoli. He is regarded as one of the principal reasons why the allies could not prevail against the Turks. Nevertheless, Ataturk showed no animosity to the Australians and New Zealanders and he is responsible for one of the most generous and moving tributes to a former enemy that has ever been recorded. In 1934, he proclaimed: Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives... You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side now here in this country of ours... you, the mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land. They have become our sons as well. Day 7 After a couple of days in which we had been focused on the Gallipoli experience, our vision was again turned to the wider (and older) world as we crossed the Dardanelles by ferry and headed for the ancient city of Troy. The world heritage listed ruins of Troy were uncovered in the 1860s. Since then there has been a systematic excavation of the city and the discovery that more than 9 cities have existed on the site since the time of Homer. Ozgur gave us his usual detailed but accessible explanation of the history and present status of the site, down to his description of the horse that dominates the entrance as AD This replica of the famous Trojan Horse commemorates the story of the victory of the Greeks who hid inside a wooden horse to enable them to take control of the city. The ravages of time were evident, not just in the many layers of civilization that have built up at Troy over thousands of years but also in the fact that what was once coastline is now over 5 kilometres from the sea. The students recreate the seating system in the amphitheatre at Troy. There were no backs on the seats so backrests were created by the knees of the person behind. 13

14 From the Canakkale side of the Dardanelles, it was possible for us to appreciate the bigger picture of the events that preceded the Gallipoli landing. An initial plan launched in March 1915, was a naval attack through the Dardanelles, the sea passage from the Mediterranean Sea to the Black Sea. However, this proved a failure because the entrance to the Dardanelles was heavily mined and four British battleships were destroyed. From a hill above Canakkale we were able to observe the ancient forts that the Turks used to defend the Dardanelles. After lunch, during a visit to a replica of the minelayer, the Nusrat, we saw the same scene through an interactive display showing the events of March 18 th 1915, a very important date in the Turkish calendar. Lunch was in a charming seaside restaurant. The food was of the usual high standard but the cheese pastries that formed part of the entrée were a triumph! If we ate nothing else we would still have gone home satisfied. From the seaside restaurant it was short walk to the Naval Museum and the Cimenlik Fort. This castle which dates from the 15 th century has walls as thick as the width of a small house. So secure are these walls that a canon attack from the British ship Queen Elizabeth in 1915 made little more than an indentation in the defences of the fort. The courtyards are dominated by historic guns and cannons and the interior contains displays, maps, models and live performances relating to the military history of the area. The hole in the castle wall created by the Queen Elizabeth in On the bus and even on the ferry, there was a consistent soundtrack Zoe, Lauren, Tanvi and Chelsea practising the words of I am a good girl by Christine Aguilera. They had to be word perfect to win the right to put make-up on Connor that evening. Fortunately for Connor (at least we think he was pleased) the girls missed a couple of the words so Connor was able to retain his au naturel appearance. Day 8 Saturday was spent extending our knowledge and understanding of the whole Gallipoli campaign, and preparing for the Lone Pine Service. To date our focus had been on the sites of Australian and New Zealand engagements but the Anzac role was only part of a much wider plan. On April 25 th, 12 British battalions under the command of General Hunter- 14

15 Weston landed on five beaches around Cape Hellas at the tip of the Gallipoli Peninsular. On two of the beaches, the British soldiers met the same sort of resistance as their Anzac cousins further up the coastline. We visited the general memorial to the British, an impressive site on the hill above Cape Helles, and a smaller cemetery on the beach, reminiscent of the many Anzac cemeteries dotted over the peninsular. The British memorial at Cape Hellas An interesting site in a nearby village was the grave of Lieutenant Charles Doughty Wiley, one of the heroes of the Cape Helles campaign. His is the only individual grave on the Gallipoli Peninsular. Doubty-Wiley seems to have been exceptional in many ways. He is rumoured to have had a long time affair with English writer Gerturde Bell and there are suggestions that she visited his grave during the Gallipoli campaign. The French cemetery, also near the southern tip of the peninsular is a serene and elegant place, dominated by an impressive monument that overlooks the sea. The graves are marked by beautiful crosses wrought from metal. Once again, it was difficult to reconcile the tranquillity of this setting with the horror and loss of life that it represented. Estimates vary but it is suggested that approximately 15,000 French soldiers lost their lives in the Gallipoli campaign. April 23 rd is a special day in Turkey, National Sovereignty and Children's Day. It marks an important day in the history of modern Turkey because it was the date on which the Grand National Assembly of Turkey met for the first time, in Ankara. Ataturk dedicated the day to the children of Turkey the nation's future. It was obviously a day of celebration, with crowds of families and school groups everywhere we went. Nowhere were we more aware of this special day than at the Turkish memorial to the Gallipoli campaign, another impressive monument that dominates the skyline and overlooks the coast. Here we (especially the young people) were objects of some interest. Many lively conversations developed and lots of 15

16 photos were taken. Many of the toy koalas, kangaroo pins and Australian flags that we had brought with us went home with Turkish children and teenagers at the end of this day! The students re-create an impressive wall relief that shows the bond between Turkish and Australian soldiers. The early afternoon was spent at Lone Pine preparing for the roles of the Simpsonites in the Lone Pine ceremony to be held on Anzac Day. Stuart drilled the wreath bearers in their paces, with the result that they performed effortlessly on the actual day. Tanvi, who had been selected to read at the ceremony, had chosen and prepared a beautiful poem, only to be told at the rehearsal that she had to read something completely different. After a couple of quick 'reads through' she proved herself to be a real professional, delivering her piece with clarity and grace. One of the organisers described her reading as 'awesome', and that was just at the rehearsal. 16

17 Chelsea practising for the wreath laying at Lone Pine A quick getaway from the rehearsal found us on a high speed bus trip to make it to the ferry on time, for a cruise to Suvla Bay. Fortunately the ferry waited. It was very interesting to see the sites we had visited, from the perspective of the sea. The ferry took us very close to Anzac Cove so that we could sense what the Anzacs had seen on that morning in Warm and dry and able to stay on the boat, it wasn't easy to experience what they endured, but it gave us a little more insight into the obstacles that they faced. After dinner the students had the opportunity to show their knowledge in a vigorously contested trivia game. The quiz was won, narrowly, by the Aguilera team who won genuine antique Trojan horses for their efforts. The runners up had to be content with chocolate Anzac slouch hats! Day 9 This was to be a relatively quiet day as we prepared for a very early start the following morning. However, it was still eventful and memorable as we tackled one of the more challenging walks of our peninsular stay and visited Ataturk's headquarters during the Gallipoli campaign. We had already visited Chanuk Bair, the main New Zealand headquarters and the site of a magnificent statue of Ataturk. Today we were to do what the New Zealanders had done, but in reverse. We walked down Rhododendron Ridge, a journey initially taken by New Zealanders as they climbed up this forbidding path, under heavy fire and carrying weapons and supplies. Even travelling down this path was tricky in places, with very steep inclines and overgrown paths, but this was well compensated for by stunning views, beautiful countryside and clean, sparkling air. Used to huddling in our padded Simpson Prize jackets, it was wonderful to shed a layer or two of clothing and enjoy the sunshine. We began to hope that the weather 17

18 was improving and stories we had been told about the freezing Dawn Service may have been exaggerated. The group negotiating Rhododendron Ridge From Rhododendron Ridge it was a short walk to another of the tranquil cemeteries that dot the battleground Embarkation Pier. This cemetery was not a burial ground until after the war, when the remains of some 944 soldiers were brought here from smaller makeshift cemeteries nearby. Among the headstones is that of one brother of the Australian novelist Albert B Facey. Another of Facey's brothers was also killed in World War One but Albert survived and married a girl who had sent him a soldier's parcel while he was at the front. Our final calling point for the morning was the charming village of Bigali, the place that Ataturk made his headquarters during the Gallipoli campaign. The house where he stayed is now a museum attracting many thousands of visitors each year. We completed our visit to Bigali with Turkish coffee or Apple tea in a beautiful outdoor café in the village square. The view from the verandah of Ataturk s house in Bigali. 18

19 Back at the Kum and most of the group (but not I) decided to make good their promise to brave the icy waters of the Aegean. No swimmers stayed in for long but it was another box ticked and no-one seemed the worse for the adventure. The Kum was suddenly abuzz with 'important' visitors, each of whom seemed to be accompanied by his or her own personal fleet of bodyguards and police. There was an air of building excitement as we came closer to the main purpose of our trip the Anzac Day ceremonies. After the exercise of the morning and the usual large lunch, everyone was ready for a restful afternoon to prepare for our midnight wakeup call the following morning. The intrepid swimmers. Day 10 No one missed the wake up call, in fact everyone was present and suitably rugged up in the Cafeteria well before the call to 'embus'. We shared our bus to Anzac Cove with another group of Gallipoli travellers also staying at the Kum. A number in the other group were war veterans or the relatives of those who had served in war and there were impressive medals on many a proud chest. The atmosphere at North beach, the site for the Dawn Service, was quietly respectful but with a tinge of excitement and anticipation. As we were shown to our front row seats we passed thousands of sleeping bag clad tourists, many of them asleep in neat rows on the ground. Any stories we had heard about loutish or drunken antics were forgotten here was a remarkable crowd, most of them young but all of them aware of the solemnity of the occasion. This impression continued throughout the morning's activities. The behaviour of the participants in both of the Anzac Day ceremonies was exemplary! Any hope that the weather may have improved somewhat were dashed within about 15 minutes of sitting in the stand. Despite out thermals, padded Simpson jackets and beanies, sleeping bags and (even) the ponchos, most of us shivered our way through the next few hours. On the big screen, documentaries and short programs about the soldiers kept us distracted from the cold, as did frequent trips for coffee and food. One of the many excellent features of the program in those hours before dawn was the use of flood lighting on the Sphinx behind us and the still waters of Anzac Cove to our left. 19

20 Because of our wonderful position at the side of the area where the ceremony was held, we also had a great deal to watch as the morning unfolded. The sleepers were awakened at about 4.30am and they moved into their vantage points for the service. The New Zealand Navy band that was to provide the music for the ceremony practised right in front of us. The music was beautiful but all we could think of was how cold they must be it is impossible to play the trumpet wearing gloves. As the dawn approached we witnessed the invited dignitaries take their seats and the impressive Catafalque Party moved into position to begin the Dawn Service. The Dawn Service was very impressive, even a little hypnotic and caused me to think about the real purpose and impact of such occasions. No one wants to glorify war in any way, and yet something about the elaborate rituals, classy uniforms, fantastic music and sentimental readings does put a rosy glow over what was an unmitigated tragedy. There was a sense of connection and belonging evident at the Dawn Service that was euphoric. I wonder whether it is really possible to praise and revere those who gave their lives while at the same time conveying the ugly reality of war. Perhaps this use of ritual and ceremony is the only way that human beings can make sense of such waste Doubtless these are questions that will still be facing us one hundred years from now. The Catafalque Party goes through its paces at the Lone Pine ceremony From the Dawn Service we set off on the trek to Lone Pine thousands of Australians and New Zealanders (and a smattering of others including quite a few Germans) following the steep climb taken first by our ancestors on April 25 th The Lone Pine Ceremony was a slightly more relaxed affair and one that involved our Simpson students in two important roles. The wreath bearers performed their duties with great confidence and dignity and Tanvi s reading of the Henry Lawson poem Scots of the Riverina was exceptional. The wreath bearers 20

21 Most of the people in our stand, having seen us sitting with Tanvi, passed on their compliments many saying that her reading was the highlight of the service. At the end of the ceremony, Lauren and Hayley laid a wreath on behalf of the Simpson Prize group. The inscription that the students chose To live in hearts and minds is not to die summed up the feelings that all of us had developed as we learnt of the lives of soldiers who gave their lives at Gallipoli. Tanvi reads at the Lone Pine Ceremony The walk down from Lone Pine was easier than the climb but something of an anti-climax. The main reason for our journey to Turkey had been accomplished. For most it was home to the Kum for a well earned sleep. Some of the others at the Kum (not the Simpsonites!) engaged in that good old Anzac afternoon tradition of a few drinks and a game of two-up. However, by the time most of us re-surfaced in time for dinner, even these stayers had called it a day. 21

22 Day 11 The journey back to Istanbul was quieter than some of our earlier bus journeys but there was still a bit of energy for some singing and a couple of lively arguments. Back at the Antik and the girls were delighted to discover that they had been billeted in a family room. There was time for a trip to the Grand Bazaar before dinner and the Simpsonites took advantage of the opportunity to get in some serious souvenir and present purchasing. JP s tally of pashminas grew in approximate proportion to Connor s collection of Turkish Delight. We all joined in the Turkish Dancing Dinner that evening was at the Antik and we were treated to a most interesting display of Turkish dancing. The amalgam of dance styles amazed everyone a nod to Russian Cossack kicking, a glance at Zorba style dancing, even a hint of Irish, all tied together with more than a touch of Turkish. The dancers enthusiasm was catching and it was not long before all of us joined them on the dance floor. A walk to the Blue Mosque in the moonlight completed the day for most of the group. Day 12 There was a palpable sadness at breakfast as we realised that this was our last full day in Turkey. However, like all of the others, this was to be a day jam packed with activities some more sightseeing and a few more purchasing opportunities. We had already heard stories of the cisterns that had provided water supplies to Istanbul over 1500 years ago. Indeed, the restaurant in which we breakfasted and dined at the Antik was one such cistern. This morning, however, we visited the largest of all the underground water reservoirs, the Basilica Cistern, so named because its dome ceiling resembled that of a Byzantine Basilica. There was only a small cover of water in the floor of the cistern but it was deep enough to support a variety of colourful fish and a rich collection of coins. From the Cistern we ventured to the Hagia Sophia, one of the most spectacular and inspiring buildings in the whole of Istanbul. It has seen life as a Christian Church, an Islamic Mosque 22

23 and now as a National Museum. One of the most interesting aspects of the interior is the combination of Christian and Islamic symbols and images. Unlike other churches that were converted to mosques, the Hagia Sophia retains some elaborate Christian mosaics for the simple reason that they were too high to be covered or removed. Ozgur gives us one of his well informed and interesting explanations at the Hagia Sophia. Outside the Hagia Sophia it was again possible to see how the ground level has changed over time. Excavations show a frieze and other remains of the church built in the 6 th century by Emperor Justinian 1. These relics are about 2 metres below today s ground level. Excavations showing the former ground level outside the Hagia Sophia Our last visit for the day, and the setting for another delicious lunch, was the Suleyman Mosque. In contrast to some of the elaborate mosques that we had visited, this one could be described, in modern designer parlance, as minimalist. Despite its grand proportions and the extensive use of marble, ivory and mother of pearl, the mosque has an elegant simplicity and grace. It is still in operation as a mosque and as we were leaving we witnessed men washing their feet at the outside taps, in preparation for their entry to the mosque to pray. 23

24 A final swoop through the Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar, and most felt that they had taken advantage of all of the purchasing opportunities offered by this amazing city. In consequence, the next main issue occupying most minds was whether their luggage would be overweight. (As it turned out everyone got through without paying for excess baggage, but it was touch and go for Gene!). Last minute purchases at the Grand Bazaar Our farewell dinner was held at a very classy and elegant restaurant in the shadow of the Topkapi Palace. The Sarnic Restaurant is in yet another building that was once a cistern. We were joined by our wonderful guide Ozgur and our ever patient bus driver Ondur. On our return to the Antik it was time for farewell speeches, thankyous and awards. Andrew told us that this had been the best Simpson Group ever. He said that he always says that but we chose to believe that this time he was actually correct! Farewell speeches and thankyous, back at the Antik 24

25 Day 13 A final swing through the Grand Bazaar (far less crowded at 9.00am) only added to our anxieties about overweight baggage. We learnt a new Turkish custom the first sale of the day is marked by the seller scraping the money back and forth across his chin or his elbow. Not sure what this gesture signifies but it was an interesting lesson that we still had a lot to learn about this marvellous country. We debussed for the last time at Ataturk airport and faced the first of our farewells. Ozgur and Ondor had been so essential to the smooth, informative and enjoyable running of our trip and it was difficult to say goodbye. Once inside the airport there was some last minute unpacking and repacking of suitcases and hand luggage. Those who felt their baggage was a little light on, paired up with the overloaded to check in as pairs. It worked. No one had to pay excess baggage and we moved on into the departure hall to spend our leftover lire. The flights home were long and tiring. Most slept at some stage, even Zoe and Lauren who had vowed to stay awake for the duration. There were further farewells and tears in Sydney as we went our separate ways. Nearly home! It is hard to put the experience into words, without descending into clichés - but even clichés were original once. The trip was wonderful, surprising, inspiring, moving, eye opening, amusing, sometimes challenging but always enjoyable. I am extremely grateful to the HTAA and HTAV, the War Memorial (especially Andrew and Stuart) Ozgur, to my fellow teacher Carol and particularly to the 8 fantastic Simpsonites Chelsea, Connor, Gene, Hayley, JP, Lauren Tanvi and Zoe. If they are to be our future then Australian is in excellent hands. 25