THE HIGH LIFE. SPANISH HOMES Location Guide

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1 SPANISH HOMES Location Guide THE HIGH LIFE Shepherds and shamans, organic farmers and yoga teachers; the Alpujarras region of Granada nurtures traditional and alternative lifestyles amid breathtaking scenery. Ski in the morning, sunbathe in the afternoon. That s the promise luring a growing number of homemakers and holidaymakers to the foothills and valleys of the Alpujarras in Andalucia. Clean air, clear water and the absence of intensive development have also made its green valleys a haven for northern European families seeking a more natural way of life. In the process, they are contributing to a lively alternative scene. Granada s Alpujarras skirt the southern flank of the Sierra Nevada mountains along 70 kilometres of steeply winding roads. A similar number of white villages are scattered across the dramatic landscape like sugar cubes tipped onto a vast wrinkled tablecloth. From the spa town of Lanjarón, through Orgiva the market town first made famous by Chris Stewart in his book Driving Over Lemons to the gently touristy towns perched above the awesome Poqueira Gorge, and Trevelez, the highest village in Spain, small communities of mainly British buyers are choosing to put down roots here. The Alpujarras have been inhabited for thousands of years, notably by the Moors. Their brilliant system of irrigation channels or acequias has left its shimmering mark on the fertile landscape and lifestyle of the valleys. As a result, small-scale agriculture and tourism provide a modest living for many native and adopted Alpujarreños. Country lanes are fringed with olive, almond, pomegranate and orchard fruit groves, and wildflowers decorate the countryside from March to mid-june. It has to be one of the most naturally beautiful places left in Europe, says Hiam Odds, a local estate agent who built her own home in the high Alpujarras after living all over Europe. Temperatures reflect the mountain climate, dropping to almost zero occasionally during the winter even in the lower Alpujarras, with snow and ice a regular winter visitor in the higher villages, such as Capileira. Yet from June to September, temperatures regularly reach 35ºC and beyond, with blue skies and brilliant sunshine almost every day. October s rains are usually greeted, if not with joy, at least with relief. For many recent arrivals, the introduction in 2004 of bargain flights between Granada Airport and several UK cities has been an important factor in enhancing the Alpujarras appeal to British buyers. The round trip to collect our family and friends from Malaga used to take most of the day, says one resident of Lanjarón, now it s an hour and a half. Once here, the region is generally well served by reliable, air-conditioned buses and an impressively updated motorway network; in contrast, some of the more remote country roads make for an exciting ride, and parking in the narrow streets of the white villages during tourist season could qualify as an extreme sport! 1

2 Inevitably, easier access has raised demand for properties across the board, and prices have risen accordingly. In some of the more popular villages, you can pay anything from 33,000 for a townhouse in need of extensive repairs in popular Orgiva, up to 900,000 plus for a four-bedroom country villa on 9,000 sq m of land, not far from the town. Still, there are bargains to be found, especially for those who are keen home renovators and don t need to live within a walk of the shops. While buyers here have traditionally been focused on country homes, local agents have noted a growing interest in new and renovated townhouses. Buyers are starting to see the advantages of not having land to look after or water rights to negotiate, says Hiam. And younger families are choosing to settle in town so that they and their school-age kids can have a richer social life. In spite of the growing appeal of eastern European locations for some buyers, Andalucia s property values remain buoyant, with local agencies reporting a steady increase in house prices. For those buying to let, rental opportunities are good, with occupancy that can stretch from spring into autumn, peak times for the botany, cycling, walking, riding and climbing activities that the region offers. Local agents say a well-equipped, modern kitchen and bathroom, and a pool, are essentials for competing in the local market. But you don t need anything fancy, says Hiam, just good basic furniture and appliances and simple décor. Rent expectations of per week reflect the relatively low cost of buying here compared to the coast. Yet the pleasant resorts of Granada s own Costa Tropical, such as Salobreña and La Herradura are within easy reach; the former is just forty minutes from Lanjarón. And some of the best skiing in Europe is also within day-trip range, normally open from December to April. For golfers, the region is catching up on its green neighbour, the Costa del Sol, with the recently opened Campo de Golf in Motril, the nearest coastal town to the Alpujarras, and a new residential/golf development in the Alpujarras itself, awaiting confirmation. Even for those who like nothing more strenuous than lifting a cup of coffee, the Alpujarras is brilliantly located for one-day dips into city life. Granada, with its history, architecture, arts and good eating, is just under two hours away from the farthest Alpujarran villages. The bustling port town of Motril offers a more modern alternative, with many familiar brand names in its pleasant shopping plazas, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to rest and refresh yourself between shopping sprees. Both cities offer a choice of well-stocked, large supermarkets and small, specialist stores in which to shop for food and wine. In the Alpujarras themselves, all but the smallest towns and villages have at least a bar and a corner shop style grocer, while those located along the more popular tourist routes, such as Lanjarón and Orgiva, Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira, offer a much wider choice of shops, bars and restaurants, as well as accommodation at reasonable prices. In addition, weekly markets, such as the Thursday market in Orgiva, are a great place to buy local produce and crafts and to meet friends for a coffee. 2

3 When it comes to the more fundamental facilities, the Alpujarras region is improving its provision of schools, hospitals and clinics. However, the hospital in Motril is regarded as one of the best in southern Andalucia. A new hospital for the Alpujarras, to be sited on the doorstep in Orgiva, is also on the point of being announced. Meanwhile, local health centres deal with most everyday medical needs to a high standard. State schools in the Alpujarras, in Pitres, Lanjarón and Orgiva, offer a good basic level of education at primary and higher level, and several get enthusiastic reports from parents and children. However, standards of English language teaching are often poor, and children without basic Spanish can feel left behind. It s best to research schools thoroughly for the area you re interested in. Finally, such serious matters are joyfully put on hold when the region s many fiestas come around. Trevelez hosts a Moors and Christians fiesta in early June, followed by Lanjarón s famous water and ham jamboree towards the end of the month; in fact, almost every town and village takes its turn at providing food, fun and fireworks at some time during the year. It s this charming combination of peace and space, affordability and sociability that is putting the mountainous Alpujarras high on the list of adventurous new lifestyle seekers from all over Europe, but especially from Britain. 3

4 BOXOUT 1: PROPERTY AGENT INTERVIEW Interview with: Hiam Odds Granada Properties, Orgiva Contact: How has the Alpujarras property scene changed in the past few years? Ten years ago, you could put a property up for sale and wait five or six years before a buyer came along! In the past four years, prices have more than quadrupled in some areas for land and property. We re seeing less retired couples and more families with school age kids coming to settle here. Who s buying, and what are they buying? I d say 90 per cent of buyers are British, followed by Dutch and German nationals and a sprinkling of Spanish holiday home buyers. While country properties with room to expand will always be popular, there s also growing interest in townhouses and apartments, without lots of land to water and maintain, but with large terraces and great views. What can you expect to pay at either end of the market in 2006? There s a bargain-priced ruin on 5,000 sq m of land in Lanjaron for 24,000; in contrast, a 4 bedroom fully renovated townhouse in Orgiva with 900 sq m of land is going for around 900,000. What are your top three tips for a good buy in the Alpujarras? For a country property, ensure water supply; check there is permission to build and alter existing buildings; check there s a clear right of way and reasonable access roads to the property. What do you think is attracting buyers to the Alpujarras? Easy! It must be one of the most beautiful areas in Europe. We re in a Natural Park zone with almost no industry, no pollution and moderate to minimal traffic. And compared to the coast, prices and cost of living are still very attractive here. What s the rental market like here? There s a steady demand for rentals through spring and autumn as well as summer, owing to the many outdoor activities the region hosts. To compete, you do need to offer an updated kitchen and bathroom, and a swimming pool. You can get E4-500 per week during peak times, good value when you consider that comparable coastal properties are almost twice the price to buy. 4

5 BOXOUT 2: ALPUJARRA EXPAT BUYER INTERVIEW Interview with: David and Jackie Davidson Carataunas, Las Alpujarras (Picture to follow) David is a marine engineer originally from Cumbrae, a small island on the west coast of Scotland; Jackie is originally from Holland. Aged 60 and 59 respectively, they moved to the pretty white village of Carataunas in the Alpujarras in What attracted you to live in this part of Spain? We d decided to settle abroad, either in Portugal or Spain, because we ve always been interested in Spanish culture and history, and we admire their family values and love the social life. A friend of ours had come to live in nearby Polopos, so we explored the Alpujarras and of course, fell in love with it! What did you buy and how much did you pay? We bought a recently built cottage (cortijo) in traditional style on 6,000 square metres of land. It had two bedrooms and an open plan kitchen/living room, and mains water, which was important. We paid 122,000 in April Have you added to or improved the property? Yes we ve built retaining walls along the terraces, installed the all-important swimming pool, added another bedroom and ensuite bathroom, and a workshop and garage. We ve done it all ourselves, with local muscle to help, and really enjoyed the experience. Are there any drawbacks/challenges to living in this location? We have no mains electricity, and solar power is expensive could cost as much as 8-10,000 to set up. Also, the track leading to our home is in poor repair so it s quite a bumpy ride! What do you love about living in the Alpujarras? We can be ourselves; no-one cares about the size of your house or what car you drive. We ve met lots of Spanish and English friends, kindred spirits who just want a better quality of life, and that s about being, not having. Any advice for homeseekers in this part of Spain? Don t fall for the sales pitch! Do your homework and seek advice from as many independent sources as you can. Be prepared for unexpected challenges. Finally, a strong relationship is essential when you set off on this adventure. 5

6 TOP TEN PROPERTY LOCATIONS/Las Alpujarras: LANJARÓN The town is dominated by its long-established Balneario, or spa. Visitors from Spain and abroad come for treatments here, and Lanjaron s superb mineral water is sold across the country. There s a small but growing British presence in this largely traditional town. It s annual June fiesta features water wars and a huge fancy-dress parade! ORGIVA The Alpujarras main market town and administrative centre, Orgiva s streets are a fascinating mix of locals and alternative lifestyle-seekers from northern Europe. Traditional shops and eateries rub shoulders with ethnic Indian emporia, an Englishlanguage bookshop, and a Middle Eastern café, for a dynamic town that is full of surprises. The town hosts a big fair at the end of September. CAÑAR Just 10 minutes from Orgiva, the Alpujarras main town, Canar s views are so wide you can see the Rif mountains of Morocco on a clear day. It s becoming popular with British buyers and holidaymakers who want to enjoy superb walking, cycling, birdwatching and horse-riding. SOPORTUJAR A picturesque and still sleepy village off the main Orgiva to Pampaneira route, on a clear day you can see the glittering Mediterranean from Soportujar s purpose built viewing platforms, or miradors. The village is surprisingly self contained, with a few bars and restaurants, shops, a church, a medical centre and primary school, plus good bus connections with surrounding villages, as well as Granada and Motril. FERREIROLA A pretty hamlet set in the historic La Taha valley, Ferreirola is built around its 16 th century church, a wash-house and several pretty fountains. You ll see few reminders of the 21 st century (or even the 19 th!) in its narrow streets, but plenty of cute whitewashed townhouses to fall in love with. PAMPANEIRA, BUBION, CAPILEIRA Clinging to the steep slopes of the Poqueira Gorge, the best-known of the Alpujarras white villages have managed to retain their charm amidst the tourist bustle of craft shops and cafes. Lining their steep, narrow streets are charming whitewashed houses, often adorned with strings of scarlet peppers drying for winter. Property here is becoming rather scarce and expensive, but worth seeking out for the location s yearround beauty and interest. 6

7 MECINA FONDALES Set deep in the La Taha valley, Mecina Fondales was a strategic town during the Spanish Civil War, but today it s more celebrated for its access to extensive walking trails. Its 500-year old whitewashed houses are often covered with vines and flowering jasmine. Locals still plough their fields with mules, you still get free tapas in the bars, and a short distance away, a French chef runs a superb vegetarian restaurant! TREVELEZ Some of Spain s finest ham is air-cured and sold here. At almost 5,000 feet above sea level, Trevelez is Europe s most vertigo-inducing village with incredible views. In August, there is a midnight pilgrimage to Mulhacen, the Sierra Nevada s highest peak. Property agents predict Trevelez will be increasingly trendy within the next few years. 7