SPLIT. Zoom in Your guide through days and nights of high spirits. Islands and Highlands What to see and do in and around Split

Transcription

1 Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps SPLIT In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks. The New York Times Zoom in Your guide through days and nights of high spirits Islands and Highlands What to see and do in and around Split N 4 - complimentary copy

2 contents 3 ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contents Arriving in Split 6 Land ahoy! The Basics 7 Whither toilets? Culture & Events 8 Festival fun and music mania Where to stay 13 Your home away from home Restaurants 18 Feast your senses Cafés 23 Get into full chill mode David Guetta is coming to Split s Žnjan beach and for one night it will be transformed into the biggest dance stage in Europe. Nightlife 24 Step out in Split style Sightseeing 25 Galleries, churches, Roman remains... Mail & Phones 32 Go on open your heart Getting around 33 Scoot around the city in style Leisure 39 Anyone for tennis? Shopping 40 Perfect gifts and souvenirs Directory 42 Grown up important stuff Split Dalmatia County 43 Day trips galore Just south of town, your jurney here takes you over a beautiful curving and rolling coast-line, and is worth the trip if for this alone. Birdwatching in Croatia 56 This issue s special feature Maps & Index Index 58 Street index 59 City centre map 61 City map 62 Country map 66

3 4 foreword For decades Split was an odd paradox, a city steeped in history and culture that didn t seem to care whether it got a slice of the tourism pie or not. It was traditionally a transit point through which tourists passed on their way to resorts on the islands of Brač and Hvar. Even Split s own citizens would drift off to nearby beaches in the summer season, leaving the city in a state of semi-deserted balmy stupour. And although day-trippers were frequently bussed into town to drool over the city s architectural riches, few locals ever considered that Split really qualified as a destination in itself. The last few years have seen a huge change in Split s fortunes. Modern travellers have been turned on by the sheer urban energy of one of the Mediterranean s great port cities, and have opted to stick around for a few days rather than hurrying to catch the first boat out. And the locals who have always considered their town to be one of the most inexplicably unique places on earth, but habitually assume that outsiders are too stupid to realize it have awoken to the realization that the new breed of foreigner actually thinks Split is just as cool as they do. And to be honest, Split doesn t have to try too hard to impress. For dedicated urban nomads it s a dream city of shore-side cafes, back-alley bars, and a vivacious, dressed-to-thrill cast of locals for whom the art of having a good night out is a lifelong calling. Cover story This is a musical filled with songs and playfulness depicting the Split of old, a true dedication to the small people of the city of Split. The operetta, Split Aquarel, which was composed by Ivo Tijardović, has from its very premiere in 1928 until today, remained one of the most recognizable trademarks of the city. The newest production premiered in November 2008 and instantly became a hit. Since its premiere it has been performed 25 times with every respective performance being a sell-out. The World In Your Pocket Northern Ireland Ireland Netherlands Poland Germany Czech Republic Estonia Russia Latvia Lithuania Belarus Ukraine Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo FYR Macedonia Albania Greece In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). This year will also see the first non-european Pockets rolled out in South Africa and Mozambique. We also continue to roll out iphone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). Draškovićeva 66 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +(385-1) , fax +(385-1) zagreb@inyourpocket.com ISSN X Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Cover A photo taken from the operetta, Split Aquarel, by Ivo Tijardović, Croatian National Theatre in Split Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Renata Kontrec, Chad Phillips, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield, Nataly Anderson Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Maja Vidović, Gordan Karabogdan, Ivana Novak Photos Adriatic photo service, Split In Your Pocket team, TZ Split Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Krešimir Grgić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Account manager: Mirna Cindrić Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) ). Editor s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

4 6 arriving in split Basics 7 Tourist information Tourist Information Centre J-2, Peristil bb, tel. ( ) , QOpen 08:00-20:30, Sun 08:00-13:00. Split Tourist Board I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. ( ) , touristinfo@visitsplit.com, com. QOpen 07:30-15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. ( ) /( ) , info@dalmatia.hr, www. dalmatia.hr. QOpen 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. By boat Split s ferry port isn t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port will cost you 3kn and operates around the clock. There s a supermarket that s open from 06:30-20:30 daily and a few cafés and bars that are open according to season and demand. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you ll reach the old town in about five minutes. By bus Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3, Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) / ( ) , info@ak-split.hr, Split s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00-24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window and information desk both operate twenty-four hours. The international ticket office operates 24h. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00-22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 6,50kn per hour, per piece of luggage. Getting to town: As it s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station. Fun for the whole family By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 157 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that s that! From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split. From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje. By plane Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) Cesta dr.franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , uprava@splitairport.hr, Split s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15-23:00. Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. If you feel like a drink or a bite before your flight, Restaurant and Café Ikar operates from 05:00-22:00 and has an excellent view of the sea and palm trees swaying in the breeze. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30-19:30) and the post office (June -September 19 Open 07:30-21:00, Sat 07:30-14:30. Closed Sun) both operate exchange offices and can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna dalmacija kiosk (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men s and women s toilets. Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Croatia Airlines airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 15kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Croatia Airlines buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you just next to the old town for 30kn. By train Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) /( ) , hr. The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station s working hours, from 05:45-22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station. Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. Call the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. (+385-1) , Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances. Health & Safety The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one s belongings at all times, nevertheless. Policija (The Police tel. no.192) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times. Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem. Public Toilets There are several spots that are labeled as having a public toilet around the city, but not all of them are open. The safest option is to use the facilities of a bar or café while having a drink on the premises. The best public one, complete with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Kralja Tomislava (I-2). It should be said that some of our female staff members felt a slight hint of sexual discrimination, as a cabin in the public WC runs 4kn, while those of us able to stand and do their business will only have to pay 2kn. So much for gender equality. Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Split County: (April 2001): Split (April 2001): Territory: Croatia s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia; Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney. Climate Temperature, C J F M A M J J A S O National holidays January 1 January 6 April April May 1 June June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26 Rainfall, mm 100 Roads Croatian lawmakers can t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, Once again, we ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you. Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn t it? Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. N D New Year s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints Day Christmas Saint Stephen s Day

5 8 culture & events culture & events 9 Exhibitions Saturday Monday A monographic exhibition Ante Kaštelančić J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. ( ) , This exhibit celebrates 100 years since the birth of Ante Kaštelančić, a stalwart artist during the Croatian Modern and Contemporary Art period. See 132 of his works from different art phases as created between 1934 and In keeping touch with his coastal seaside town of Podstrana near Split, a great number of his specific interpretations pertaining to sails will be presented. Split Film Festival Saturday Saturday Split Film Festival - International Festival of New Film info@splitfilmfestival.com, com. The flare that film has to offer comes alight in the 16th edition of this festival that promotes moving images in (film, video and new media) across seven vast categories. Recent world and Croatian short/feature films are a highlight as well as some local premieres. The programme also consists of new media works, retrospectives, lectures and workshops. A Special Festival Award is presented annually to a known director for his/her outstanding contribution to the art of film. As a bonus this year, Bela Tarr, the famous Hungarian filmmaker will conduct a two week workshop for a limited number of students. The opening of the festival will be at the Central Cinema whilst screenings will take place at the Karaman Cinema and Zlatna vrata Kinoteka. Movies are scheduled daily from 17:00 to 23:00 at both cinemas. Many films will be screened for free; otherwise it is 15kn per ticket. Cinemas Central I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. ( ) , Cineplexx City Center One, Vukovarska 207, tel. ( ) , CineStar D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel. (+385-) , Karaman I-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. ( ) , Kinoteka Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. ( ) , Daša Milatić Zimmer frei Monday Thursday Jagoda Buić J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. ( ) , Weaving is what this artist does best! One of Croatia s unique mid to late 20th century artists who has woven her way across world museums and back with amazing works in tapestry. The Art Gallery proudly presents Buić s aforementioned works in addition to her theatre work which includes skteches, masks, costumes and her recent paper and colllage work. Special events Wednesday Friday A festival of street entertainers Clowns, jugglers, acrobats, musicians and many more are set to dazzle at the 5th international festival of street entertainers in Split! Two weeks of fun and excitement including free concerts can be seen at the Peristil, and other city locations including the Voćni trg, Narodni trg - Pjaca, Riva etc Thursday Saturday The Split festival I-2, Prokurative (Trg Republike), Many say that this is the San Remo Music Festival of Croatia as it always attracts the biggest names on the Croatian music scene. Despite the glory days of the 70 s and 80 s long gone, the event has had some changes over the years but things are on the improve. For the very best in Croatian music, then this is a highlight as it continues to attract the biggest names and draws the most attention Thursday Sunday The 57th Split Summer Festival Prokurative (I-2), Peristyle (J-2), Cellars of the Diocletian s Palace (J-2), A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance perfomances from Croatia and abroad Friday Sunday xstatic Riva, Marjan Hill, Žnjan Beach, O Hara, xstaticfest. com. Steering away from the mainstream this International Festival of Urban Culture is jam packed with goodies including masters in graffiti art, skateboard, BMX, break-dance and street basketball competitions. Musically, hip-hop and rap artists from this region include Dječaci, Marcelo and Filteri and the duo Timbe and Ajs Nigrutin Tuesday Saturday Atlantis Festival Đardin Park, Gripe Fortress, This is a daredevil paradise people! A festival of skateboard culture will offer visitors a cultural, musical and competitive insight into the skate scene. The wider audience will also enjoy a top rate 2-days music programme by Croatian and foreign bands and DJs xstatic festival (Archives) Ethnoambient Salona, photo by Bartosz Madejski Thursday Saturday Ethnoambient Salona Gradina, Solin, The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world music really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining traditional and contemporary music from their countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical celebration of cultural differences! This year it means you will hear the sounds of Reunion with Danyel Waro, Gambia with JuJu (Justin Adams and Juldeh Camara), Italy with Canzoniere Grecanico Salentino and Croatia with Veja and Kries Saturday David Guetta F-3, Žnjan Beach. The biggest open air spectacle to be held on the Adriatic coast this year with the biggest commercial dance hit maker in recent years, David Guetta. This maestro behind turn-tables comes to Split and the larger the arena, the wilder the spectacle on the dance floor. Guetta graces the hallowed stage at Split s legendary Žnjan Beach in what is said to be a performance to remember with up to 50,000 visitors able to attend. Let the music take control under the starry summer nights amidst an amazing light and sound show. Q Start at 21:00. Tickets kn available at Thursday Saturday Enter - Summer Music Festival D-3, Bačvice Beach, Ibiza eat your heart out as the new Enter Summer Music Festival will have patrons bopping to the beats all day and night. Two days, two stages and thirty international DJ s spinning tunes at the famous Bačvice Beach! Hear the sounds of Axwell and other DJ s doing what they do best! Culture Centres Alliance Fraincaise I-2, Marmontova 3, tel. ( ) , info@alliance-francaise-split.com, Q Open 08:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. MKC-Multimedia Culture Centre (Multimedijalni kulturni centar) D/E-2, Savska bb, tel. ( ) /( ) , mkcsplit@mkcsplit. hr, QOpen 08:00-15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

6 10 culture & events culture & events 11 The Dalmatian Klapa If the coastal regions of Croatia had a musical trademark then it would undoubtedly be the stirring sound of the klapa. Performing a capella songs with delicate harmonies, the klapa is basically a small choir numbering anything from three members upwards. Often made up of informal groups of friends with an instinctual feel for age-old Adriatic melodies, these choirs are an important focus of local life and a source of considerable pride for the communities they come from. Typical klapa songs focus on traditional Adriatic concerns: falling in love over a plate of squid, going night fishing with the lads, or pining for partners who are sailing the seven seas. Although klapa harmonies tend towards the smooth and soulful, the style retains a raw emotional edge: hearing a klapa perform live - whether on stage at a festival or simply serenading themselves at the table of a konoba - can send shivers down the spine. Best places to experience klapa singing at its best are the Omiš Klapa Festival ( which features outdoor concerts in the centre of Omiš throughout the month of July; or at the Dalmatian Song Evenings (Večeri dalmatinske pisme; in Kaštel Kambelovac in early July Friday Discotheque Riva The Split Riva is literally turned into an outdoor club with 20,000 punters hopping and bopping the night away. Famous British electronic act Faithless Sound System headline this year s event and is supported by Dutch DJ Fedde Le Grand, Felix Da Housecat and undoubtedly the most sought after British DJ at the moment James Zabiel. Spend the night under the stars ducking and weaving the spectacular laser show on hand. Q Tickets kn available at Friday Monday Days of Diocletian The Emperor Diocletian returns and will we see his wrath once more. In a splendid re-enactment of ancient rule, for four nights citizens dressed in costume wander along the city streets as the Emperor himself is led by carriage by an entourage of guards to the Peristyle. Embrace the past with gladiator performances, singers and a street music festival. Dig and delve into the Roman feast by tasting delicacies made from natural local ingredients (honey, fruit, vegetables, shellfish, and spices) as prepared according to traditional old recipes Split Film Festival - International Festival of New Film Velimir Trnski: Act Tuesday Thursday Jazz Festival I-2, Riva. You may escape the heat temporarily but this annual jazz event ought to turn it up a notch. Come on down to the Split Riva as a line-up of both national and international jazz musicians are sure to get you tapping and dancing to this smooth yet up-beat style of music Saturday Monday MAGfestival J-2, City Museum, Papalićeva 1, com. For the 2nd year in a row, as organized by the Young Academic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival will be held at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the Split City Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not only be able to participate in the concert but will also be able to visit the Split City Museum and see the permanent display of the Emanuel Vidović Gallery. More fun Thursday Thursday Velimir Trnski: Act J-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-) Tuesday Friday Croatian Press Photo 2010 I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www. fotoklubsplit.hr Tuesday Tuesday An exhibition cycle of young authors: Vojin Hraste J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. ( ) , Tuesday Tuesday Daša Milatić: Zimmer Frei I-2, Alliance Fraincaise, Marmontova 3, tel. ( ) , info@alliance-francaise-split.com, www. alliance-francaise-split.com. Acrylics exhibition Monday Thursday Claire Vallet: Solo exhibition I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www. fotoklubsplit.hr Wednesday Tuesday Ivan Listeš: A Split Odyssey 2011 I-2, Alliance Fraincaise, Marmontova 3, tel. ( ) , info@alliance-francaise-split.com, Oils exhibition Saturday Saturday Goran Ivanišević - 10 years since winning Wimbledon (photos of his welcome) I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www. fotoklubsplit.hr. Photo exhibition Thursday Sunday Safet Zec J-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-) Monday Saturday Brkan brothers: Retrospective I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www. fotoklubsplit.hr Sunday Wednesday Göksin Sipahioglu: The Best off Göksin Sipahioglu I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www. fotoklubsplit.hr Wednesday Friday Frane Longo: Kalafati malešne flote I-2, Alliance Fraincaise, Marmontova 3, tel. ( ) , info@alliance-francaise-split.com, Exhibition of Model Ships Wednesday Friday Sanja Šurlan: All the colors of the Mediterranean I-2, Alliance Fraincaise, Marmontova 3, tel. ( ) , info@alliance-francaise-split.com, Oils exhibition Thursday Monday Željko Ferenčić: Solo exhibition I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www. fotoklubsplit.hr Tuesday Wednesday Nick Veasey: X-Ray Photos I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www. fotoklubsplit.hr Thursday Friday Vedran Marketić: Solo exhibition I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www. fotoklubsplit.hr.

7 12 culture & events WheRe to stay 13 Art Deco in Croatia The exhibition Art Deco in Croatia in the Interwar Period at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb has been so well received both at home and abroad that it has been extended until 28 August This gives tourists visiting Zagreb over the summer the chance to see one of the most popular exhibitions here in recent years, while students and art lovers can still arrange their trip to Zagreb to visit the exhibition. By the end of May 2011 more than 45,000 Art Deco, Božidar Kocmut, Poster people had visited the exhibition. You can see over 750 art works including paintings, graphics, sculpture and applied arts featuring fashion and furniture design and more. It has been written about by France s Le Figaro and received extensive radio coverage in the Spanishspeaking world as evidence that the roaring twenties was alive and kicking in Croatia too. Art Deco, Set, Italy You can watch informative presentations on the Art Deco period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there is live music in the spirit of 20s cabaret, and the museum is open until 22:00. On Saturdays and Sundays there are workshops for children. Everyone will enjoy the chance to buy replicas and other souvenirs, a catalogue, a DVD or an audio guide. Don t miss this last chance to see a dazzling exhibition and to learn more about Zagreb s art scene between the two world wars! Info at (+385-1) , (+385-1) , Buić Ritmizirani krug 1975 Small galleries Galić Art Salon I-2, Marmontova 3, str/galic.htm. Q Open 10:00-13:00, 18:00-21:00, Sat 10:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Kula J-2, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. ( ) , galerija.kula@gmail.com, Q Open 09:00-12:00, 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. MKC Gallery D/E-2, Savska bb, Dom mladih, www. mkcsplit.hr. Q Open during exhibition 10:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Photo Club Split (Galerija fotografije fotokluba Split) I-2, Marmontova 5, tel. ( ) , info@ fotoklubsplit.hr, Hugely enjoyable gallery of contemporary photography with an imaginative programme of themed exhibitions, featuring international photographers as well as works by members of the local photography club. Q Open 10:30-12:30 and 18:30-22:00, Sat 10:30-13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. The cellars of Diocletian s Palace (Dioklecijanovi podrumi) I/J-3, QOpen 09:00-21:00. Admission 15-35kn. Cream of the crop Atrium J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , info@hotel-atrium.hr, You re not in the middle of the action if you re staying here, but the entire hotel is modern, luxurious, comfortable and nicely equipped, with pool, jacuzzi and free Internet. All the things you want and expect from an upscale hotel are here. Q129 rooms (126 doubles , 3 suites 480). PHA6UFLGKDChhhhh Upmarket Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , prodaja@arthotel.hr, www. arthotel.hr. If you re a business traveler with access to a car, this cube-shaped, modern hotel is a solid choice. Without a car, you ll be a fifteen minute walk from the old town but either way, you ll have an exceedingly comfortable and stylishlydecorated room with Internet access included in the price. Q36 rooms (36 singles 125, 36 doubles 165, 36 triples 185). PHAULGBKhhhh Dalmina E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , info@hoteldalmina.hr, www. hoteldalmina.hr. The location is a bit drab and off the beaten path, but everything you need for a decent stay is on offer: Internet, free on-site parking, complimentary breakfast and more. Q52 rooms (30 singles 89, 30 doubles 121, 18 Twin Rooms 121, 4 Family Rooms 164). PHAULKhhhh Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , info@hotelglobo.com, www. hotelgobo.com. A four-star hotel that lives up to its classification, Globo has a relatively decent location, exceedingly helpful and cheerful staff and a breakfast that usually doesn t fail to satisfy. Q33 rooms (28 singles 139, 28 doubles 178, 5 triples 217). PHA6LNGK hhhh Luxe D-3, Kralja Zvonimira 6, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , reservations@hotelluxesplit. com, Location, location! An exclusive new four star hotel close to the Diocletian Palace, bus and trains station. This is not your everyday hotel, it is a luxury boutique hotel with attention paid to every detail. It has modern rooms with a Mediterranean feel, a restaurant, a cigar bar, and wellness amidst quality all-round service. The exterior is superbly designed blending the ancient stone that defines Split with a splurge of modernism. Sleek and stylish! Pets allowed on payment of 7 per night and a one-off payment of 14 for cleaning the room. Q30 rooms (3 singles , 24 doubles , 2 Deluxe Suites , 1 Prestige Suite ). PHA6UFLGXW hhhh Symbol key Art Deco, Shoes Kaštelančić Poslije kiše 1963 P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms C Swimming pool 6 Animal friendly Reserve a room at

8 14 WheRe to stay Marmont I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. ( ) / (+385-) , fax. ( ) , Boutique hotel in an old stone house with imaginative modern add-ons (the breakfast room is an attractive triangular wedge). All rooms have parquet floors, creamy colour schemes and views of neighbouring, green-shuttered buildings. There is a reasonable amount of desk space, big TVs, and wifi coverage throughout. The classy modern bathrooms come with either bath or shower cubicle - although even the latter are pretty spacious and seem to have been made with splashing around as a twosome in mind. Q22 rooms (21 singles , 21 doubles , 1 Presidential Suite ). PALGhhhh Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www. hotelpark-split.hr. For an upscale establishment with over fifty rooms, the amenities have made themselves relatively scarce through the eighty-seven years of this hotel s life. There s no pool, the rooms bathrooms are small and service can be a bit slow. The location close to Bačvice and the quiet atmosphere make up for these small problems though, and the outdoor terrace, accented by gently swaying palm trees, is hard not to love. Pets can stay by arrangement. Q57 rooms (21 singles , 33 doubles , 2 apartments , 1 Presidential Suite ). PHA6ULGBKDhhhh President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , hotel.president@st.t-com.hr, Just outside the walls of the old town near the Croatian National Theatre stands the President, a comfy hotel with stylish decorations in earthy, natural tones. Double rooms can be a bit small but if you need more space to stretch out, the deluxe double should do the trick. Q73 rooms (8 singles 127, 55 doubles , 10 Presidential Suites ). PHA6ULGBK hhhh Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , info@vestibulpalace. com, The rooms here are a hip homage to ancient and modern, with rooms decorated in black, brown and beige, contrasted in suites 3 and 6 with the original Roman walls that stand exposed. The modernity and hipness are never taken far enough to make the hotel uncomfortable, however, making this the most sought-after and exclusive name for Split s visiting elite. Q11 rooms (4 singles , 5 doubles , 1 suites , 1 Junior Suite ). PALGBK hhhh Mid-range Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , info@ hotel-adriana.hr, Perhaps the proprietors rely a bit too much on their Riva-front location to sell their hotel, as some of the rooms are on the small side and the service has been known to be a bit curt. All in all, this one is more than adequate for a few nights and the location is nearly perfect. Q15 rooms (2 singles 700kn, 11 doubles 950kn, 2 apartments kn). PABKhhh Split.inyourpocket.com Finding a place to stay couldn t be simpler than with and Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price click the button and hey presto! You re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go! Consul D-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, Perhaps a bit pricey considering the services on offer, but clean, comfortable and friendly nonetheless. The hotel appears to have been converted from an old apartment building and is situated in a quiet, residential area fifteen minutes walk from the center. Q19 rooms (4 singles 90, 9 doubles 130, 2 triples 150, 4 apartments 205). PHALGBKhhh Kastel I-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax ( ) , tel. (+385-) , info@kastelsplit. com, One of the best value small guesthouses in the city, this tall building sits at the southwest corner of the palace and is operated professionally and efficiently. Q9 rooms (1 singles 80-90, 2 doubles , 1 triples , 2 apartments , 1 Studio Apartment , 2 Twin Rooms ). PAGhhh More F-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , hotelmore@ hotelmore.hr, Hotel More is actually a bed and breakfast that operates in an interesting cascadestyle building on the waterfront, a short walk from the old town. The vibe is calm, comfortable and relaxed. Q9 rooms (8 singles , 8 doubles , 1 suites ). PAULGhhh Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , booking@hotelperistil. com, Given the excellent furnishings, superior location and lovely view from the terrace on the roof, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover that the cost for a night at the Peristil isn t anywhere in the neighbourhood of an arm and a leg. An added bonus is the excellent Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs whip up food in open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 singles 135, 9 doubles 162). PA6BKhhh Slavija I-2, Andrije Buvine 2, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , info@hotelslavija.hr, www. hotelslavija.hr. Slavija s stellar location in the palace and recent renovations are its big draws, but the location can also be a thorn in the side of those who treasure their beauty sleep. The loudest and rowdiest bars in the old town are located nearby. Q25 rooms (2 singles 800kn, 17 doubles kn, 4 triples kn, 1 4-bedded room 1370kn, 1 5-bedded room 1470kn). PA6LGhhh As E-1, Kopilica 8a, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , info@hotelas-split.com, www. hotelas-split.com. If you re willing to travel a bit to get to it, this is another solid choice on the outskirts of town. A modern building with the expected additions to make for a pleasant and comfortable stay. Q33 rooms (33 singles 600kn, 33 doubles 800kn). PALKhhh Old-School charm Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , bellevue@inet.hr, www. hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Today s hotel Bellevue is located on the Riva next to the church of Saint Francis and on the south-west wing of the Prokurative. It was once a hotel offering curative baths to guests whilst its café was a meeting place for rich clientele. In 1906, it received its name Grand hotel Bellevue, and was later renovated in Famous writers such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw and Agatha Christie have all lodged here. Today s hotel offers comfortable accommodation and includes the Noštromo restaurant. Q50 rooms (13 singles 620kn, 34 doubles 850kn, 3 triples 1062kn, 3 apartments 1116kn). ALBKhhh

9 16 WheRe to stay WheRe to stay 17 The Inhabitants of Split To the outside visitor, the citizens of Split referred to as Splićani are homogenous group of people. There are, however, a few distinct groups that exist in the social landscape. The first, and oldest, group of people are the fetivi, the people descended from Split s old urban families. They are characterized, stereotypically, by their unique way of talking, which is considered to be very fast. Split s fetivi are complimented by the boduli, people originally from the islands of the Adriatic who, again stereotypically, have a reputation for frugality, quick thinking and keeping to themselves to themselves. Relatively recently, these two groups were joined by the vlaji, who migrated to Split from other parts of Dalmatia and now populate the high-rises that encircle the city. The vlaji are the rough and tumble survivors, accustomed to hardships and the rougher side of life. The distinctions between these groups, however, are fading fast, especially considering the arrival of the latest social group to emerge in Split, namely an influx of immigrants from Hercegovina who came seeking a new life in Croatia s second largest city. Budget Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , info@hoteldujam.com, www. hoteldujam.com. Saint Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio and Domnius), patron saint of Split, moonlights as the patron saint of budget travelers by lending his endorsement to this hotel, located about a fifteen minute walk from the center. Those keeping a cautious eye on their cash flow will appreciate the clean rooms and functional furnishings. Q35 rooms (5 singles 60-66, 28 doubles 79-93, 2 apartments ). PHALGKhh W Hostels Golly&Bossy I-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. ( ) , info@gollybossy.com, www. gollybossy.com. Have you ever been to a designer hostel? Kid you not, this will knock your socks off, it has escalators for all 3 floors, free WiFi all-round, a DJ booth, small theatre, kitchenette, a restaurant, a 15 meter bar with drinks aplenty, waterfront views and is literally less than a one minute walk to the waterfront. Price wise, it matches most other hotels but with features you would not believe! Q 150 dorm beds, kn per person. PJHABKW Silver Central I-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. ( ) , silvercentralhostel@gmail.com, Bright, high-ceilinged apartment with a welcoming reception/common room and a trio of 6- to 8-bed dorms, each with its own internet terminal. Q 27 dorm beds, kn per person. PJNW Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , silvergatehostel@gmail. com, Run by the same team as Silver Central and offering pretty much the same deal, the hostel occupies an atmospheric apartment building with fine views of the Palace s eastern gate. Q 26 dorm beds, kn per person. PNW Split Hostel Booze and Snooze I-2, Narodni trg 8, tel. ( ) , info@splithostel.com, Right round the corner from the medieval main square, this is a cute and cosy hostel run by a helpful and informative team. Soon to be opening a new annexe a couple of streets away, complete with basement bar. Q 16 dorm beds, per person. PG Brač Agroresort Bračka Perla Put Vele luke 53, Supetar, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , fax. ( ) , booking@perlacroatia.com, www. perlacroatia.com. Apartment! Hotel! When their powers combine, they form: Aparthotel Bračka Perla! But seriously folks! This is an absolutely genius choice if you re looking for a touch of class during your stay in Supetar. Eleven fully furnished rooms decked out with chic Italian furniture look out onto a lovely pool and deck area and, from the terrace, the sea and the islands stretch out into the horizon. Plus, there s a sauna and gym on-site. Q11 rooms (5 doubles 315, 4 suites 400, 2 Junior Suites 365). PAFGDC hhhh Bluesun Hotel Borak Put Zlatnog rata bb, Bol, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , borak@ bluesunhotels.com, The lush surroundings and whopping 150 square meter pool are eye-catching. Not to mention the 184 modern guestrooms all decked with a balcony and essentials. Buffet meals are served throughout the day. Numerous complimentary specials are provided to all guests. Positioned 50 meters from the beach and close to the town centre. Prices are per person / per day. Q184 rooms (133 doubles 69-86, 3 suites , 48 Family Rooms ). PTAFLGKChhhh Dešković Palace Pučišća, Brač, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , h.palaca-deskovic@ st.t-com.hr, This restored Renaissance palace from 1467 is a registered cultural monument. It has been transformed into a luxurious four-star hotel. All rooms are fully equipped and guests can indulge in the hotel restaurant or aperitif bar. The menu is crammed with local cuisine and home-brewed wine. Q Open May - November. 13 rooms (6 Standard Rooms , 7 Junior Suites ). PA6LGBKhhhh Pastura Vrilo 28, Postira, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , pastura@st.t-com.hr, www. hotelpastura.hr. It s perfectly located on the promenade with ocean views from the restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities include an outdoor fresh water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna and massage. Modern and set in peaceful surroundings. Q50 rooms (31 doubles 44-82, 6 suites 48-86, 4 apartments , 8 Junior Suites 46-84, 1 Presidential Suite 48-86). PTAUFLGBKDChhhh Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vele Luke 4, Supetar, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , sales@watermanresorts.com, com. Comprising residences Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa Maria, Meridien, Agava, Salvia and Olea the Svpetrvs Resort has a lot of things going for it that might make it an irresistible choice while on Brač. Given the fact that it s part of a consortium of hotels, there are a load of services on-site that other hotels in the same price range simply cannot offer, like indoor and outdoor pools, an abundance of tennis courts and sports areas and a fitness and wellness center. It also happens to be located right on the beach. Prices are per person. Q440 rooms (78 singles , 78 doubles 64-85, 277 triples 64-85, 63 suites , 22 Junior Suites 73-94). PTHAUFLGBKDChhhh Looking for more? Hvar Croatia Majerovica bb, Hvar, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , croatia-hvar@st.t-com.hr, Ah, tranquil surroundings. Peace and quiet! Hotel Croatia has a laid-back atmosphere that you can enjoy from your seafront balcony or on the pebble beach the hotel has access to. This is a prime choice for travelers looking to relax and soak up some rays. Q28 rooms (22 doubles , 6 Family Rooms ). PJAFLGBK hhh Riva Riva bb, Hvar, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , reservations@suncanihvar.com, riva-reception@suncanihvar.com, com. Ideal for single travelers, party people or friends on a getaway together, the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern and chic through and through. Unfortunately, the rooms are reminiscient of seats on an economy class flight: slightly cramped and uncomfortable after long periods of time. There are even, inexplicably, see-through glass windows on the toilet and shower. Come mentally prepared for these details, and you ll have a blast rocking out in the bar on the ground floor or relaxing on the patio facing the harbour. Q54 rooms (46 doubles , 8 suites ). PA6UGKhhhh The Palace Trg Sv. Stjepana, Hvar, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , reservations@suncanihvar. com, palace@suncanihvar.com, If you were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose to build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right on the harbour on the sunny island of Hvar. You probably wouldn t, however, choose to deck it out with quite the same furniture or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated interior, make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73 rooms (4 singles 53-75, 57 doubles , 12 suites ). PHA6GKChhh Vis Biševo Ribarska 72, Komiža, tel. ( ) / ( ) , fax ( ) , info@hotelbisevo.com, Probably the best bet in tranquil Komiža, this functional and comfortable hotel comes with some handy pluses like satellite TV and a balcony for every room. Prices are per person / per day. Q130 rooms (2 singles kn, 123 doubles kn, 5 apartments kn). PTALBKhh Issa Šetalište A.Zanelle 5, Vis, tel. ( ) , fax. ( ) , hotel-issa@vis-hoteli.hr, www. vis-hoteli.hr. While it is located just a stone s throw from the center of Vis Town, the hotel is still surrounded by plenty of green and lots of clear, sparkling water. Every room has a balcony looking out onto the bay. Prices are per person / per day. Q125 rooms (125 singles kn, 125 doubles kn). PALBK hhh Kaštela Adria Dr. Franje Tuđmana 969, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , info@hotel-adria. hr, If waking up for that 06:00am flight intimidates you a bit, Hotel Adria s location can afford you a few extra winks the night before and has comfortable rooms and a pleasant staff to boot. If the sound of planes taking off and landing distracts you, close the windows, crank up the AC and the noise virtually disappears. Q11 rooms (2 singles 51-61, 5 doubles 72-86, 4 triples ). PALBKhhh Podstrana Le Meridien Lav Grljevačka 2a, Podstrana, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , reservations_ split@lemeridien.com, Brand new and exclusive with 381 guest rooms and suites. Set on a marina promenade; expect to be dazzled by the multitude of restaurants, bars, cafes, plus casino, sports bar and nightclub. Furthermore, the recreational complex and the astounding Diocletian Spa and Wellness Centre are state of the art. With over 800m of beach frontage, it really is paradise. This ultra-modern new hotel complex is located 8km from the centre of Split. Q381 rooms (370 singles 290, 370 doubles , 2 Diplomatic Suites 1300, 2 Family Suites 700, 5 Junior Suites 650, 2 Presidential Suites 2200). POTHA6UFLGBKDC W hhhhh San Antonio Grljevačka 30, Podstrana, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , info@hotelsanantonio.com, The words San Antonio cull up images of Texas, but Texas this is not. This particular San Antonio is a four-star hotel right on the beach in Podstrana, 8km from the old town. High-speed Internet is available, along with a whole list of other amenities. Ideal for long sessions of quiet chilling on the beach. Q23 rooms (15 singles , 15 doubles , 15 triples , 6 suites , 2 Penthouses ). PHAFLGBKDC hhhh Trogir Pašike Sinjska bb, Trogir, tel. ( ) / (+385-) , fax ( ) , info@ hotelpasike.com, While the amenities and services are thoroughly modern, the decor and the rich wood furniture is thoroughly 19th and early 20th century, making this one of most the intriguing hotel choices in the area. Q14 rooms (2 singles 600kn, 11 doubles 800kn, 1 apartments 1200kn). PAGBKhhhh

10 18 RestauRaNts RestauRaNts 19 Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking 6 Animal friendly B Outside seatingde International Aci Grašo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. ( ) , restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, com. With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free. QOpen 10:00-24:00. (70-110kn). PAGB Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. ( ) , info@adriana.hr, This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? It s a prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly priced! QOpen 07:00-23:00. (60-160kn). PAGB Apetit I-2, Šubićeva 5, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , apetit.split@gmail.com, Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass. QOpen 11:00-24:00. (60-100kn). PJAG Bistro Black Cat K-3, Šegvića 1, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , blackcat.bistro@gmail.com. Providing culinary diversity at a moderate price, Black Cat is a unique institution in Split, and is gathering a growing army of devoted regulars as a result. The repertoire kicks off from lunchtime with sandwiches and salads, not to mention a maincourse menu that embraces Thai, Indonesian, Mediterranean and veggie options. A secluded outdoor terrace and affordable cocktails make it a good place to drink as well. Whatever you order, try and leave room for the outstanding desserts, which are made in-house rather than ordered from the mainstream bakeries. The more you travel around the Adriatic, the more you ll realise what a valuable culinary haven the Black Cat actually is. QOpen 12:00-23:00. Closed Sun. (45-60kn). PAGB Boban E-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. ( ) , info@restaurant-boban.com, com. The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place does it all, and does it well. QOpen 10:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00. (50-100kn). PAGB Cardo J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel. ( ) , A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please. QOpen 06:00-23:00. (75-120kn). PAG Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. ( ) , mail@restoranduje.hr, This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre - Koteks. It s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines. QOpen 10:00-24:00. (65-400kn). PAGB Kadena E-3, Ivana pl. Zajca 4, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , info@restorankadena.com, Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on offer. QOpen 09:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00. (80-130kn). PAGB Le Monde H-1, Plinarska 6, tel. ( ) / ( ) , Dine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant boasts a trim interior and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are on the menu along with local wine. It s tucked away in the busy Varoš district but worth the visit. QOpen 10:00-23:00. (50-180kn). PAGB Marko Lokas Pizza Theirs is of the thin-crust variety, and the centre will more closely resemble a soup if you don t give it time to cool. There s no shortage of variations on the theme, and a bonus for the economically challenged is the relatively miniscule price of a pie, 25-45kn. Key to toppings: feferoni (peppers), frutti di mare (seafood), gljiva (mushrooms), maslina (olive), rajčica / pomidor (tomato), sir (cheese), slanina (bacon), šunka (ham). Galija I-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. ( ) The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions QOpen 09:00-24:00, Sun 12:00-24:00. (20-90kn). PAGB Gušt J-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. ( ) You ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it s right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again. There you ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas. QOpen 09:00-23:00. Closed Sun. (34-49kn). PAG Maslina I-2, Teutina 1A, tel. ( ) , konmaslina@net.hr. A cute little restaurant that s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta. Q Open 10:00-24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00-24:00. (33-90kn). PAGB Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoševa 63, tel. ( ) There are two Velo Misto s, one located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza and the other Velo Misto is located in Zenta (Šetalište Kalafata bb) with a huge terrace that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of a popular TV series with performances by top Split theatre thespians. QOpen 09:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00. (30-130kn). PAG Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. ( ) Located inside the palace walls, this restaurant takes the name The Golden Gate and is surrounded by a lovely courtyard that brings much needed shade come summer. The wood fire oven produces great thin based pizzas. The salads are significantly filling. QOpen 10:00-23:30. Closed Sun. (20-60kn). PNGB Seafood Bota Šare D-3, Bačvice bb, tel. ( ) , Situated right above the Bačvice Beach with an extensive seafood menu, this eatery is extremely popular amongst locals and tourists. A refined interior and extensive wine list provide the finishing touches. QOpen 10:00-24:00. (30-400kn). PAGB Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. ( ) Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant. QOpen 10:00-24:00. (50-120kn). PAGB

11 20 RestauRaNts RestauRaNts 21 Marko Lokas Noštromo I-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) , Here s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists. QOpen 10:00-24:00. (80-250kn). PNG Posejdon I-2, Adamova 5, tel. ( ) Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer. It s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, when you pass Ispod ure (under the clock tower) simply turn right. QOpen 08:00-01:00. (50-200kn). PJAGB Stellon D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište bb, tel. ( ) Stelon s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine. The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat during the summer! QOpen 12:00-23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00-24:30. (45-390kn). PAGB Zrno soli C-2, Uvala baluni bb, tel. ( ) , zrnosoli.split@gmail.com, This restaurant has class written all over it. New to the scene, it is stylish both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, the service is second to none and if you do not mind forking out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay for. Quality all-round! QOpen 08:00-23:30. (30-80kn). A Traditional Fife H-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife s only drawback is it s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season. QOpen 06:00-24:00. (10-50kn). PNGB Hvaranin H-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, small old stone buildings where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija. Q Open 12:00-16:00, 18:00-24:00. (70-300kn). PNG Kibela J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 5, tel. ( ) / (+385-) A small, homey restaurant hidden away in the palace complex, Buffet Kibela has a satisfying list of meat and seafood choices on its daily menu, prepared fresh every day. The food is the perfect size for lunch and is brought out virtually instantaneously by the polite and attentive staff. Thumbs up. QOpen 07:00-24:00. (35-80kn). PNGB Konoba Varoš H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. ( ) , konobavaros@konobavaros.com. It s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless. QOpen 09:00-24:00. (30-200kn). PAG Lučica C-2, Lučica 7, tel. ( ) Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza ain t bad, actually it s quite good. It s located at the Spinut Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan. QOpen 08:00-24:00. (50-90kn). PALB Oštarija u Viđakovi D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. ( ) /(+385-) With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes if you re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit. QOpen 11:00-24:00. (45-360kn). PAGB Fast food Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. ( ) Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out. QOpen 10:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00. (50-400kn). PAGB Konoba Leut H-2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. ( ) This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite. QOpen 09:00-24:00. (40-120kn). PAGB Delta I-2, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. ( ) Stop in for a quick pastry snack and tasty sandwich. QOpen 07:00-23:00. (10-18kn). B Kantun Paulina I-2, Matošića 1, tel. ( ) Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold. QOpen 08:00-23:30, Sun 10:00-23:30. Mc Donald s D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker), tel. ( ) , It is there. QOpen 09:00-23:00. (7.5-37kn). PAB Rizzo I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. ( ) / (+385-) Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00-24:00, Sun 17:00-24:00. (6-18kn). B

12 22 RestauRaNts cafés 23 Desserts Marko Lokas Bobis-Riva I-3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20. A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city s citizens with delectable eats since There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan. QOpen 06:00-22:00, Sun 07:00-22:00. PNGB Creme de la Creme I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. ( ) You have a sweet tooth and the craving has hit, so why not wander down to one of the newest pastry shops in town. Fantastic cakes, homemade pastries, and desserts served with coffee, liqueurs and juices. Its minimalistic interior includes some trendy retro details, everything looks simple and refreshing. Located opposite the movie theatre Karaman, they also have a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet. QOpen 07:00-22:30. PAGBX Galerija J-2, Dominisova 9. The imaginative and pleasant decor pays perfect compliment to the sweets on offer and the music tinkling away in the background is a nice touch. A good alternative to the standard dessert places around town. QOpen 08:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, 18:00-23:00. Kuća kolača D-3, Ulica kralja Zvonimira 16, tel. (+385-) /(+385-) Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home recipes of the region, look no further as the staff here serves homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries. There is no seating so it is all take out and on the go. Not bad if you would like a nibble on the beach! Q Open 09:30-20:00. Sun Open on request. N Kuća sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6, tel. ( ) Cool off at Kuća Carmen as they offer you a wide range of ice-creams and beverages. From the creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. It s close to the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to miss. QOpen 08:00-24:00. PNGB La Maison de Sarah I-3, Obala hrv. narodnog preporoda 20. The proprietors of La Maison de Sarah meet the pastry demands of coffee-sipping Riva-ites nicely with a whole selection of handmade delights, including authentic French tarts and pastries. Unfortunately, it s not actually a house - all the pastries are take-away only. QOpen 07:00-24:00. N Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. ( ) This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition - just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00-21:30, Sat 08:00-20:30. Closed Sun. N Pimpinella E-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , pimpinellast@yahoo.com. A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with vegetables and much more. QOpen 09:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-17:00. (45-70kn). PAGB Šperun H-2, Šperun 3, tel. ( ) A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet. QOpen 09:00-23:00. (70-130kn). PAGB Terra Antika D-3, Prilaz Braće Kaliterna 6, tel. ( ) , info@terra-antika.net, net. This cellar restaurant and wine bar located in Bačvice stows authentic Croatian vino that simply delights whilst nibbling on tapas Croatian style. The varied menu features the likes of spicy Slavonian sausage and prosciutto as well as dishes infused with flavoursome Istrian truffles. QOpen 17:00-24:00. (60-150kn). PA Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. ( ) /(+385-) Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in. QOpen 06:00-21:00, Sat, Sun 06:00-14:00. (40-70kn). PNG Vegetarian Makrovega I-2, Leština 2, tel. ( ) , info@makrovega.hr, If you re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg you ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic. QOpen 09:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-17:00. Closed Sun. (60-70kn). PNG Froggy flavours Marko Lokas The culinary repertoire of inland Dalmatia has always reserved a special role for the frog (žaba). Traditionally considered a staple of working families, frogs legs are now something of a delicacy, and urban foodies from Split and Zagreb will make special trips to provincial konobe to seek out the best frog recipes. In the Cetina region (Cetinska Krajina) inland from Split, frogs legs are usually fried in breadcrumbs or boiled with potatoes. The provincial town of Trilj is a popular gastronomic destination with two outstanding restaurants, the Lovac (tel ) and the Čaporice in the Sveti Mihovil hotel (tel ). As you wind your way through the streets and alleys of Split s old town, you ll encounter more cafes and bars than you can shake a stick at and the summer season will offer you no end of folks to browse impertinently, be they tourist or local. Nearly every cafe offers some kind of outdoor seating, but selecting the right spot will significantly affect your cool rating. Choose wisely. Bajamonti I-2, Trg Republike 1, tel. ( ) The stunning Prokurative Square is home to this brand new classical café and restaurant which is named in honour of Antonio Bajamonti, a famous 19th century Mayor of the city. Choose to sip coffee downstairs or head upstairs to the restaurant and terrace which houses Croatian and in particular local Dalmatian cuisine combined with assorted Mediterranean, French and Italian specialties. Opened just weeks ago, it is sleek and of high quality. QOpen 07:30-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30-01:00. PAGBX Favola I-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. ( ) A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here s a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they d state its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it s not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it. It s name is Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet is unusually narrow! QOpen 08:00-24:00. PGB Gaga I-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. ( ) In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk. Q Open 07:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-03:00. PNGB Kalafatić E-3, Cvjetna 1, tel. ( ) / (+385-) , If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of the sea, it s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach. QOpen 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. Open 10:00-24:00 (Restaurant). (50-110kn). PAGB Kavana Procaffe C-2, Špinutska 67, tel. ( ) , info@procaffe.hr, A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an outlook toward the Kaštela towns and the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there s nothing better than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats. QOpen 07:00-01:00. PAGB Lvxor J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. ( ) , lvxor@lvxor.hr, A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There s wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style. QOpen 08:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. PAGB Po Bota I-2, Šubićeva 2. If you prefer an intimate affair, come to this café bar which doubles up as an art exhibition of the local artists. The terrace borders onto the Fruit square (Voćni trg) giving a friendly local atmosphere. QOpen 08:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. GBX Šetač I-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb. The seven axes embedded in pieces of wood lining the back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but, alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server and make them spill the beans regarding their origins. Axes notwithstanding, the bar s large outdoor seating area and small but stylish interior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out the passersby. QOpen 07:00-24:00, Sun 08:00-24:00. PB Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. ( ) , teakcaffe@gmail.com. Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings. Q Open 08:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, 20:00-24:00. PNGB Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. (+385-) Give the interior of this one a pass unless the need arises to weave your way through the tables and patrons to visit the unisex bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent view from the terrace of ships to-ing and fro-ing across the harbor. For best results, experience with an attractive significant other. QOpen 07:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. PNBX Tonik Juicy Bar H-2, Ban Mladenova 5, tel. ( ) A small but charming place for a break in between checking out the city. QOpen 07:00-22:00. PNGB Vidilica C-2/3, Nazorov prilaz 1, tel. ( ) The best thing about this one is the view, and as far as views go, it doesn t get much better. The harbor and the Riva, the sea and the islands are all on glorious display. Plus, the cafe s location makes it a perfect starting or finishing point to an afternoon spent exploring Marjan. QOpen 08:00-24:00. PGB Žbirac D-3, Šetalište Bačvice bb, kontakt@zbirac.hr, It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge! QOpen 07:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. Summer 2010

13 24 Nightlife What to see 25 Bars Bifora E-2, Bernardinova 5. Decorated with scenes from someone s psychedelic experience or a particularly bizarre fairy tale, Bifora has interesting clientele, a quirky, relaxed vibe and attracts a large number of revelers in the summer months. Definitely a much-frequented stop for Split party-goers. QOpen 07:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. PJBX Buža I-2, Priora Petra 7. Nestled alongside a group of narrow bars lies Buža, a smaller alternative spot where one can enjoy the nights with rock music. QOpen 07:00-24:00. Closed Sun. PJBX Element bar I-2, Ispod ure 2, tel. (+385-) In the heart of the old city centre, this café has a beautifully decorated interior in a lounge bar kind of style. What makes it different is the soundtrack: instead of the usual easy-listening house music soundtrack, the music menu consists of good quality rock music, and live bands are put on once or twice a week. And to make things almost perfect, Element has an excellent choice of specialist coffees. Q Open 08:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. BE Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10. Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen 10:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. PNBX Mosquito J-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Mosquito squeezes a great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched furnishings and bright interior colours. There s plenty of loungey furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves draught Guinness. QOpen 08:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. PNBX Na kantunu J-2, Dominisova 9, tel. ( ) Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you ve picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunu s real advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it s also an outstanding place for a beer. QOpen 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. PB Puls2 I-2, Buvinina 1. It s easy to get to Puls, just take a right from the Voćni trg and straight in the narrow passage you ll find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to its industrially fitted interior. Whether you elect to stand or sit you re sure to enjoy this place, especially its variety of delish cocktails and DJ beats on weekends. QOpen 08:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. PNGBXW Red Room J-2, Cararina poljana 4. Hang out of a more mature and discerning crowd, this intimately lighted and comfy space has an altogether positive, relaxing vibe enhanced by light and smooth music. QOpen 07:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. PNBXW ST Riva I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18, tel. (+385-) , info.striva@gmail.com, www. st-riva.com. Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages. QOpen 08:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. PJGB Clubs Hemingway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel. (+385-) , split@hemingway.hr, www. hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsoles won t even make it past the door. This is Split s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen 08:00-06:00. PAGBXW Jungla A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića bb, tel. (+385-) The new season at this beach bar Jungle (located under Šetalište I.Meštrović) starts with an electric beat and continues in that rhythm all summer long. You re invited! QOpen 08:00-24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-06:00. PNGBX Kocka D/E-2, Savska bb, tel. ( ) , kum. kocka@gmail.com, In this club you re sure to hear the sounds of underground metal/rock and gothic rock, warm up party, drum n bass, punk, hip hop..the club is located under Mažuranićevo šetalište in the basement room of the Youth Centre (Dom mladih). As a reminder, the club doesn t operate daily during the summer months but does open for organized concerts and special events, so it s best to keep track via the web. Obojena Svjetlost A-3, Meštrovićevo šetalište 35, tel. ( ) This place is noted as a popular hang-out. Named Obojena by the locals, it s situated just under Kaštelet towards Marjan. Swing by and stay for the parties and concerts all summer. QOpen 07:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. O Hara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-) , infoohara@gmail.com, Small groups of Split s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere. A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00. AGBX Vanilla C-2, Poljudski put b.b., tel. (+385-) Match the look of Split s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You ll find two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor. QOpen 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-04:00. PNGBX Consisting of an imperial Roman palace that was taken over by the plebs and turned into a thronging city, central Split is an attraction in itself. There s no single must-see attraction here: it s really a question of taking time to stroll the palace s narrow, tunnel-like streets, where Roman, medieval and Renaissance buildings jostle together to form a unique urban jumble. And you shouldn t just restrict your wanderings to the city centre: residential neighbourhoods such as Veli Varoš, Lučac and Manuš are filled with the kind of picturesque alleys and stone houses that are so typical of traditional Dalmatian towns. Rising above the city to the west, Marjan hill presents an easily accessible expanse of woodland park, with some fine views back towards the centre. Essential Split Diocletian s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) I/J-2. A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian s palace has become the quintessential living museum, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace known as the basement was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures. Fish Market (Ribarnica) I-2, Obrov 5. Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the classic, Something s fishy here joke, but please refrain - it s been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going on at this site since the fish market moved from its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in The interesting smells emanating from the fish market might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur. There s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas. Green Market (Pazar) J-3. Any traveller worth their salt wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and Split s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends. Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) A/B-2/3,. When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis. Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog naradnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching.

14 26 What to see What to see 27 The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2,. Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port. Veli Varoš H-2,. Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split. Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. ( ) , info@armus.hr, Even though it s situated north of the town centre, Split s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including pre-historic, pre-christian, Greek and Medieval. Q Open 09:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10-20kn. City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalićeva 1, tel. ( ) /( ) , muzej-grada-st@st.t-com.hr, The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split. QOpen 09:00-21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00-16:00. Admission 5-10kn. Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski muzej) K-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. ( ) /( ) , hpms@hpms.hr, Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you ll miss out on many of Split s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead- Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Sun Open by prior arrangement. Admission 5-10kn. Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) J-3, Severova 1, tel. ( ) , etnografski-muzejst@st.t-com.hr, If you re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you re in luck. Split s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years. Q Open 09:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. July 01 - September 15 Open 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5-10kn. Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. ( ) /( ) , muzej-has1@st.t-com.hr, Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval. Q Open 09:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5-10kn. Galleries Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. ( ) / ( ) , gorana@mgst.net, net. Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović ( ). Croatia s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a lifelong fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artist s former studio - including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in. QOpen 09:00-21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00-16:00. Admission 5-10kn. Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine Kaštelet B-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. ( ) , mim@mestrovic.hr, Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see Landmarks ). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the Kaštelet, a 16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of almost twenty years work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture. QOpen 09:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15-30kn. Become a fan of Split In Your Pocket on

15 28 What to see What to see 29 Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) J-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. ( ) /( ) , hr. Recently re-opened in its brand-new home (a restored former hospital), Split s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. QOpen 11:00-19:00, Mon 11:00-16:00, Sat 11:00-15:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10-20kn. The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century. Zoo Zoo (Zoološki vrt) C-2, Kolombatićevo šetalište 2, Marjan, tel. ( ) Despite the presence of the occasional exotic beast here and there, Split s zoo is a rather modest affair that displays local farm animals alongside the odd Croatian wolf, boar or vulture. And unless you have kids in tow who need entertaining, there s not much point in coming to be honest. The cages do contain some odd combinations, with peacocks, rabbits and sheep all sharing one enclosure, and a bemused ostrich rooming with the Shetland ponies in another. The zoo s stampeding herd of guinea pigs will trigger nightmare visions for anyone who remembers the Trouble with Tribbles episode of Star Trek. QOpen 08:00-20:00. Admission 5-10kn. Churches Saint Dominic s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) J-2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. ( ) , samostan.split@dominikanci.hr, Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the Miracle in Suriano by Jacopo Palma Jr and the Vision in the Temple, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 19:00. Q Open 06:30-12:00, 18:00-19:30. The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Just inside the Iron Gates inside Diocletian s Palace you will find the entry to a chapel. Founded in the 6th century under Byzantine rule, the chapel was consecrated to St Theodore, patron saint of soldiers. It s bell tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower in Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th century medieval icon which once hung in the chapel and is now kept in the Cathedral Treasury. The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) I-2, Trg Republike. When you climb to the Marjan Mountain, you ll pass by the church of Saint Francais (13th century) in which there are headstones that depict renaissance fine art. The headstones are of famous writer Marko Marulić ( ), the tombs of Jero Kavanjanin ( ), Toma Arhiđakon (around ) as well composer Ivan Lukačić ( ). Numerous baroque paintings and statues decorate the inside of the church, not to mention the gothic cloister on the outside. The Church of Saint Martin (Golden gate) (Crkvica sv. Martina) J-2,. The church is 1.64m wide and 10m long and it just might be the smallest church in the world. It used to be the passage for watchmen who would secure the entrance into the Diocletian Palace. At the beginning of the 9th century it was turned into a Christian church and consecrated to Saint Martin. Next to the church, there is a Dominican convent. The first nuns arrived to Split in the 14th century and settled next to the church at the Golden Gates. They were called picokare. Today, the nuns take care of the nearby Cathedral of Saint Domnius. The Franciscan Church and Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. ( ) , samostan.poljud@gmail.com, On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts. The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 08:30, 10:00 and 20:00. Q Open by prior arrangement. The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare) K-1, Klarina 1a. A well maintained church which is home to a painted 13th century Romanesque crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance and baroque paintings by Venetian artists. City tours Sirena J-2, Mihaljevićeva 1, tel. (+385-) , sirena.split@hi.t-com.hr, Booking also at Peristil. QOpen 08:00-19:00. Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) , info@travel49.com, QOpen 09:00-21:00. Landmarks Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. ( ) /( ) , hnk-split@hnk-split.hr, www. hnk-split.hr. The story of Croatia s National Theatre in Split is long and complicated but begins on December 26, 1859, right near the beginning of a period of autonomy in the city. Antonio Bajamonti was, during a brief respite from Venetian and Austro-Hungarian control, the city s leader and a principal investor in the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly, that theatre was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881 and plans to re-build on the original site were never realised. The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street) and has resided there since. Looking for more?

16 30 What to see What to see 31 Grgur Ninski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck). Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud). Known to locals as Poljudska ljepotica or the Poljud beauty, Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. Poljud was slated for a massive re-construction in anticipation of a joint Croatia / Hungary bid to host the UEFA cup in However, as Poland and the Ukraine were chosen to host the games, Adriatic photo service Diocletian The history of the early part of his life is rather fuzzy, but Diocles (also Diocletian in English) is believed to have been born in about 244 near Solin, 8km away from present-day Split. Diocletian was Roman Emperor from November 20, 284 to May 1, 305 and, by establishing a strong autocracy and strengthening the military, brought an end to the period of the Roman Empire known as the Crisis of the Third Century. One of the many distinctions of Diocletian s rule was the creation of the Tetrarchy, which is generally credited with ending the aforementioned Crisis of the Third Century. To distribute power and authority more evenly, Diocletian initially named a co-emperor, Maximian, to look after affairs in the Western regions of the Empire. In 293, desiring even more focus on civic and military matters, two more Caesars (junior emperors) were named, with each leader operating out of their own capital on the frontiers of the Empire. After twenty years of rule, Diocletian and Maximian abdicated power. Newlyappointed Tetrarchs quickly made the system of rule a formula for civil war, and this unique form of government collapsed. Diocletian saw his friends and allies turn against him and each other, with Maximian even forced to commit suicide. By this time, Diocletian was in his elaborate retirement palace that he had had constructed, the ruins of which form the core of the old town of modern-day Split. On December 3, 311, after a tumultuous life as the leader of the Roman empire, Diocletian died. the re-construction plan has been put on hold. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split.By far the most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fanbase around the world has followed Hajduk throughout the team s history. In the former Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract fans from different regions and ethnicities, particularly with Albanians in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the 1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is to cheer ), the Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players as bili, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform.along with the team s rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players. Prokurative (Trg Republike) I-2, Trg Republike. Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neo-renaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of Split. Streets and Squares Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2. From 1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French demanded to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many urban improvements were made under the supervision of the French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new roads were built and electricity powered the city for the first time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont in the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh shops and cafés. Narodni (People s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca) I-2,. A trip west from the Peristyle along Krešimirova takes you through the Iron Gate and into Narodni trg, commonly referred to as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word piazza. In the fourteenth century, this square replaced the Peristyle as the city s central meeting area and it remains so to this day. The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock with the remains of a medieval sundial in front of a larger, older belfry and contains numerous shops and cafés. The north side of the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art or history exhibitions in the summer months. Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće Radića) I-2,. Now home to various shops and businesses, Trg braće Radić was once home to a bustling fruit market and so has been given the unofficial name of Voćni trg. This translates to, you might have guessed, fruit square. These days there s no fruit in sight, but there are several shops and points of interest that call this square home, including the Venetian castello and tower, both of which were constructed in The northern side of the square is dominated by the Milesi Palace, one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in Dalmatia. The statue that stands in front of the palace is relatively small but represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko Marulić, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created by another eminent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Meštrović. Fine lookin Ladies Ask a Croatian where to go to see the most beautiful women and most will point you directly to Split (even the bitter females of the population). A strange and nearly mystical aura surrounds these creatures, and indeed the world fashion industry makes no secret of this locales rare ability to produce goddesses. They are known especially for the combination of amazing height, ample bosom, brilliant Mediterranean Slavic features and a scorn for writers of city guides.

17 32 mail & phones getting around 33 Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.these are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Main post office E-1, Hercegovačka 1, tel. ( ) /( ) QOpen 07:00-20:00. Closed Sun. Post office I/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. ( ) , Q Open 07:00-20:00, Sat 07:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Express mail DHL E/F-3, Poljička cesta 29, tel. (+385-1) , hrspu@dhl.com, QOpen 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A IN TIME D-1, Put Stinica bb, tel. ( ) / (+385-) , , split@in-time. hr, QOpen 07:30-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N OverseasExpress J-1, Domovinskog rata 10, Dugopolje, tel. ( ) /( ) , split@ overseas.hr, QOpen 08:00-17:00, Sat 08:00-12:00. Closed Sun. N City express mail City Ex F-2, Ulica grada Vukovara 183a, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , split@cityex.hr, QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-12:00. Closed Sun. N Internet places Cyber club 100D J-1, Sinjska 2/4, tel. ( ) , info100d@gmail.com. Internet use - 20kn/hour, half hour 10kn, printing 1kn/per page. QOpen 08:30-22:00, Sun 16:00-22:00. Net Com D-3, Poljana Grgura Ninskog 9 (Peristil), tel. ( ) /(+385-) , info@n-c. hr, Internet use - first 15min / 5kn, price of every next minute is 0.33kn. QOpen 10:00-22:00. Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) , 10kn/20min, 30kn/h. QOpen 09:00-22:00. followed by the subscriber s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and begin with either 091,098,099, 092 and 095. Dial the subscriber s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits. Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Split is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-asyou-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards: Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren t convenient for you. T-Centar I-2/J-1, Marmontova 7-9, tel. (+385-) , simpa@t-mobile.hr, QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-15:00. Closed Sun. A T-Centar F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 18a, tel. (+385-) , simpa@t-mobile.hr, QOpen 08:30-20:30. Closed Sun. A Tele 2 I-2, Zadarska 12, tel. ( ) , alo2@aloalo.hr, QOpen 08:00-20:00. Closed Sun. A Vip centar F-2, Vukovarska 207 (City Centre One), tel. (+385-) , sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www. vipnet.hr. QOpen 09:00-21:00. A Vip centar I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-) , sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A Public telephone All public phones in Croatia are card operated and you can purchase one (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - they come in units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad. Calling Split From Zagreb: dial (021) and the number Outside Croatia: dial ( ) and the number Public Transport Day bus lines 1 through 18 and 21, 22 run from 05:00 to 23:00. There are three night buses, number 23, 39, 40 which run on Fridays and Saturdays. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 10kn or from kiosks near each bus stop for 8kn. The company that operates Split s buses is called Promet Split, so make sure the kiosk has that name on it before trying to buy a ticket. If you re trying to beat the system and riding without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 50kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska s ticket office operates from 06:00 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:00 to 12:00 on Saturdays and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station, dial ( ) For general information regarding bus services, call ( ) Promet Split E-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. ( ) , promet@promet-split.hr, www. promet-split.hr. Taxi The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 970. The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and kn added per each piece of luggage. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva. Trains Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) /( ) , www. hznet.hr. The main train station is situated next to the bus station and doesn t offer many possibilities to travel around, save for frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours, which in the summer can be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend disco train, on which passengers can enjoy the trip with dancing and music. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 22:50 or a night train from Split at 21:37, there s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car or motorbike and don t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket. Buses Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3, Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) / ( ) , info@ak-split.hr, The main bus station isn t the most impressive building in town, but it is well organized and conveniently located next to the ferry port and train station, which are all about ten minutes walk to the old town. If you re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be traveling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness-inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip. Information about prices and departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at the information desk. The international ticket office is open 06:00-21:30. Making the call You ve memorised the misleadingly simple code break-down, and are ready to take the plunge (let s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here s the trick: dial the subscriber s six- or seven-digit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code ((0)21 if you re calling Split for instance) Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10 kn Abroad 7,10 kn Postcrads Croatia 1,60 kn Abroad 3,10 kn

18 34 getting around If you wish to travel to the Croatian capital Zagreb, the bus ride via freeway is 5 hours approximately. The first ride starts at 1:00am with buses leaving every hour thereafter. The last bus leaves at 23:59. For those wishing to visit the Plitvice National Park there are four bus lines from Split. The first leaves at 08:30 and is followed by another at 12:00, 20:15 and 22:45. Dubrovnik is at the very south of Croatia and is approximately 5 hours from Split by bus. The first bus leaves at 1:30 and the last at 17:15. Makarska is almost half way to Dubrovnik and the first bus line towards this beautiful coastal town leaves at 1:30 with the last at 22:30. Bus lines leave almost every hour and the trip takes about 1 hour. The first bus to Rijeka leaves at 05:00 and the trip takes about 7 hours, whilst the last bus leaves from Split to Rijeka at 21:30. There are eight bus lines towards Rijeka every day. Car rental ABC I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. ( ) / (+385-) , prizmic@st.t-com.hr, www. rentacar-abc.com. QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-14:00, Sun 08:00-12:00. A Budget I-3/J-3, Obala Ante Trumbića 18, tel. ( ) , split.td@budget.hr, QOpen 08:00-18:00. Closed Sun. A Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. ( ) /( ) , subrosa@subrosa. hr, QOpen 07:30-20:00, Sun 08:00-12:00. A Emaco E-2/3/F-2, Matice Hrvatske 14 (Bussines center Koteks), tel. ( ) /(+385-1) , emaco@emaco.hr, QOpen 08:00-20:00. A Europcar Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić (Zračna luka Split - Kaštela), tel. ( ) / (+385-) , rentacar-st@uniline.hr, www. europcar.hr. QOpen 08:00-20:00. A Hertz C-3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , split.dt@hertz.hr, www. hetz.hr. QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A Rent A Smart, tel. (+385-1) , info@ rentasmart.hr, Free info Q A Uni Rent C-3, Šperun 2, tel. ( ) , split@ uni-rent.hr, QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sun 08:00-12:00. A Parking First and foremost, pay heed to the solemn pleas of our editor and please, please, please respect the parking laws of Split (and any other city you might be visiting). Now that we ve sufficiently guilt-tripped you into behaving yourself, we can continue. There are four parking zones. The price is 3kn/hr in all zones, the only difference is in the times when parking is charged. In the Zone 1 parking is payable 06:30-21:30, and in Zones 2, 3 and 4 07:00-19:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price of 3kn/h. However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of 45kn (Zone 1), or 36kn for all other zones. Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 6 to 10 kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you re parking near the Riva, you can bet on the maximum 10kn fee. Most of the lots operate around the clock. SMS Parking There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red ), zone 2 (blue ), zone 3 (green ) and zone 4 (yellow ). You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car. Promet Split D-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. ( ) , parking@promet-split.hr, Airport Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) Cesta dr.franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , uprava@splitairport.hr, The airport is relatively small but serves a fair number of domestic and European cities. If you re not able to fly to your destination from Split, there are daily flights to Zagreb, which is a bit more connected to the outside world. The airport can be reached by hopping on bus number 37 (bound for Trogir) from Sukoišanska. The bus runs every 20 minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes on weekends. If you happen to have the distinction of being a Croatia Airlines passenger, you can take the airport bus that waits at the beginning of the Riva, an hour and a half before Croatia Airlines flights. If you didn t manage to blow all your kunas on coffees on the Riva, you can exhange them in the offices run by Splitska banka or at the post office, both of which are located in the main hall of the airport. And if you did manage to blow all your kunas on shopping, enquire at the information desk where you can confirm your tax-free form, as the office is not visually marked. Airline offices Aeroplan D-3, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. ( ) /( ) , aeroplan@st.t-com.hr. Malev, Adria Airways and Germanwings agent. Office at the airport, tel QOpen 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines D-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. ( ) , sputo@ croatiaairlines.hr, There is also an office at the airport, tel QOpen 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A TUI Generalturist I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. ( ) /( ) , psplit@generalturist. com, QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A Airport bus If you re flying with Croatia Airlines you can check the bus timetable at or on ( ) At the moment the bus stop is on the corner of the Riva (the seafront) and the road which leads to the port, coach and railway stations. However, the bus stop is due to be relocated to a spot right by the coach station. So it s wise to check with the airport in advance. The trip costs 30kn for a single ticket, and kids under 6 go for free. Otherwise, take bus number 37 for Trogir from Sukoišanska bus station; tickets cost 16kn one way, leaving every 20 minutes.

19 36 getting around getting around 37 Brač Airport Brač Airport Veško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. ( ) /( ) , Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized only during the summer. The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer. Q June 1-30 Open 08:00-16:00, Sat 08:00-18:30. July - August 31 Open 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-20:00. Bike rental Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) , info@travel49.com, QOpen 09:00-22:00. Charter BavAdria Yachting Šetalište kralja Tomislava bb, Kaštel Gomilica, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , bavadria@bavadria.com, QOpen 09:00-16:00, Sat 08:30-19:00. Closed Sun. Euromarine C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , split@euromarine.hr, www. euromarine.hr. Q Open 09:00-15:00, Sat 09:00-19:00. Sun by request. Gringo nautica E-3, Cvjetna 1, Marina Zenta, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , gringo. nautica@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Nautika centar Nava C-3, Uvala Baluni 1, tel. ( ) /( ) , charter@navaboats. com, Q Open 09:00-17:00. Sun by request. Orvas Yachting C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. ( ) /( ) , orvas-yachting@orvas. hr, QOpen 08:00-16:00, Sat 08:00-20:00. Closed Sun. Ultra C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. ( ) / (+385-) , booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www. ultra-sailing.hr. QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sun 08:00-14:00. Yachting Plus F-1, Mostarska 99, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , info@yachtingplus.hr, www. yachtingplus.hr. QOpen 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ferries Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. We ve expounded much on the convenient location of the ferry port and its proximity to the bus and train stations, but if you still don t know where it is, making your way there has been simplified by those handy signs all around town pointing the way. On the street leading up to the main port building, there are Jadrolinija kiosks that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic destinations and Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split Ancona line. Inside the main port building, the Jadrolinija and Snav offices sell tickets for international travel. The opening hours of each office change according to season, but during peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00 and the main office closes at midnight. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 33-68kn per person and kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you kn and bicycles 38-62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about three and a half hours. On all ferries, you ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two. One final, important note is that it s not possible to reserve tickets for local lines ahead of time. You can buy them at any time and they are valid for any line operating that day; but to be sure your car will be placed on your desired ferry, you should be waiting with your car about 90 minutes before the ferry departs. After you buy your ticket, the kindly, multi-lingual personnel will explain to you from which dock the ferry leaves. Jadrolinija D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. ( ) , ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, This is the main company in Croatia that caters for public transportation towards the islands. QOpen 04:30-24:00. Kapetan Luka, Krilo Poljička cesta 28, Krilo Jesenice, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , luka. tomic@st.t-com.hr, Tickets are available in Jadrolinija agency. MSC Krstarenja D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. ( ) , split@msckrstarenja.com, com. SNAV agent. QOpen 08:00-20:00. Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. ( ) , booking@splitours.hr, www. splittours.hr. Blue Line International (Split - Ancona line) agent. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva). Q Open 07:30-20:30, Sat 07:30-12:00, Sun 15:00-20:30. June - October Open 07:30-20:30. Harbormaster s office Lučka kapetanija (Harbormaster s office) I-3, Obala Lazareta 1, tel. ( ) /( ) Marinas ACI Marina C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. ( ) /( ) , , m.split@aci-club.hr, Q June, September Open 08:00-21:00. July - August 31 Open 07:30-21:30. Petrol station for boats INA-Obala H-3, Branimirova obala bb, tel. (+385-) , QOpen 06:00-22:00. A Petrol stations (0-24) INA-Pojišan D/K-3, Pojišanska bb, tel. (+385-) , QOpen 00:00-24:00. A INA-Visoka G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+385-) , QOpen 00:00-24:00. A Lukoil - Sirobuja G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. ( ) , QOpen 00:00-24:00. A OMV-Istrabenz Magistrala bb, Kaštel Sućurac, tel. ( ) , QOpen 00:00-24:00. A Port Authority Lučka uprava (Split Port Authority) D-3, Gat Sv.Duje 1, tel. ( ) , lucka-uprava-split@st.t-com. hr, QOpen 00:00-24:00. Towed away As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn t heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has been towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car impound at Pujanke (F-2), so you ll need to shell out 340kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and the office is open around the clock. Tel. ( ) Travel agencies Atlas D-3, Bosanska 11, tel. ( ) , split@ atlas.hr, QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A F-tours putovanja J/2-3, Hrvojeva 1, tel. ( ) , desk@f-tours.hr, QOpen 08:30-18:00, Sat 08:30-12:00. Closed Sun. A Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. ( ) , info@galileo.hr, QOpen 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-12:00. Closed Sun. A Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. ( ) , booking@splittours.hr, Q Open 07:30-20:30, Sat 07:30-12:00, Sun 07:30-12:00, 15:00-20:30. A Tarantela J-1, Domovinskog rata 27a, tel. ( ) /( ) , tarantela@st.t-com.hr, QOpen 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:30-12:00. Closed Sun. A TUI Generalturist I/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. ( ) /( ) , psplit@generalturist. com, QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A Road help HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2,, tel. ( ) 1987, hak@hak.hr, Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day. For road information 24 hours a day dial ; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.

20 leisure 39 Sailing Ultra C-3, Uvala baluni bb, tel. ( ) / ( ) , www. ultra-sailing.hr. QOpen 08:00-20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Scuba diving Akvatorij D-1, Put Supavla 21/III, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , , akvatorij.hr, Diving school only, no tourist excursions. QOpen 09:00-14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Tennis TK Dalmacijacement Marka Marulića 24, Solin, tel. ( ) Q Open 08:00-13:00, 16:00-23:00. day time 50kn/h, night time 60kn/h. TK Split E-3, Put Firula 18, tel. ( ) , Q Open 11:00-15:00, 18:00-22:30, Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 08:00-21:00. daytime 50kn/h, night 75kn/h. Windsurfing 7 Bofora D-2, Kavanjinova 14, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , info@7bofora.com, QOpen 08:30-21:00, Sat 08:30-14:00. Closed Sun. A Big Blue Podan glavice 2, Bol, Brač, tel. ( ) , tomaz@big-blue-sport.hr, hr. Windsurfing, diving, sea-kayaking, mountain biking and beachvolley. QOpen 08:00-20:00. Adventure sports Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , , Rafting on the River Cetina, sea kayaking, canyoning. Dalmatia Rafting D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , cetina@ dalmatiarafting.com, Rafting, canoeing, kayaking, free climbing and paintball. QOpen 09:00-21:00. Falco Tours D/E-3, Žrnovnička 11, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , info@falco-tours.com, Call for arrangements. Radmanove Mlinice Poljički trg 2, Omiš, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , info@radmanovemlinice.hr, Rafting and canoeing. QOpen 08:00-21:00. SPK Marulianus D-2, Tončićeva 1/2, tel. (+385-) , info@marulianus.hr, Sport climbing club. Q Working hours by arrangement. Flip Aero club Split C-2, Teslina 27, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , miljenko.jelic@st.t-com. hr, Paragliding Alternatura Hrvatskih mučenika 2, Komiža, Vis, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , , alternatura@alternatura.hr, Q Open 08:00-13:00, 18:00-22:00. A Brela Tourist board Spa & Beauty Filomena Spa & Lifestyle Club F-3, Put Radoševca 39, tel. ( ) , info@filomena.hr, www. filomena.hr. QOpen 08:00-22:00. Closed Sun. PAFGW Mira Salon & Day Spa Gospinica 14, tel. ( ) , info@miradayspa.com, com. QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-15:00. Closed Sun. A

21 40 shopping Shopping centres & Malls City Center One F-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. ( ) , www. citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00-21:00. Joker Centre D-2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. ( ) QOpen 09:00-21:00. Antiques Antique s & Art s D-3, Plinarska 21, tel. (+385-) Q Open 10:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00. N Zlatna vrata J-2, Papalićeva ulica 4, tel. ( ) /(+385-) Q Open 09:00-12:30, 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. N Art Galleries Botteri J-1, Kliška 15, tel. ( ) , www. botteri.net. Q Open 09:00-12:30, 16:30-20:00, Sat 09:00-12:30. Closed Sun. Galerija Freska H-1, Plinarska 49, tel. ( ) , imandaria@yahoo.com, Q Open 09:00-12:30, 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A Jaman I-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, Q Open 09:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A Morić J-1, Sinjska 7, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:30-12:30, 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. A Studio Naranča J-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. ( ) , pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com. Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting exhibits by Croatian and international artists and participating in the local art scene. Stop by their small, but impressive, gallery and show them some love QOpen 09:00-21:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 09:00-22:00. Closed Sun. A Kravata - Necktie For any of you that are thinking about finding the slightest hint of irony in the idea that an item of clothing that almost single-handedly represents an uptight, constricted lifestyle should come from passionate Mediterranean climes, remember one thing the Croats are kings and queens of fashion! Twas way back in 1635, amongst the large numbers of soldiers rolling into Paris to fight against the nasty protestants in The Thirty Years War were Croatian mercenaries from the coastal regions. They wore coloured scarves around their necks, which the French military thought a wonderful idea. They were so much easier to keep clean than the lace frills that were the norm in Gaul. Hence the new fashion was taken up with enthusiasm and rapidly spread to the rest of Europe the word for the original wearers: Hrvat transforming on the non-slavic tongue to Cravat. For those of you that do not want to carry around a painful reminder of that which awaits at the end of your holidays, they make them in nice bright styles also. Split telephone code is Vegeta - Food Seasoning This is basically a food seasoning. It is made from vegetables, spices and salt and therefore has the added bonus of being vegetarian oh you healthy beast! And don t worry; MSG is in everything these days anyway, as it is in this Croatian stuff and indeed most of Central Europe. Remember how we raved about the standard of the food in this country? Well, now you have joined us in this appreciation we can reveal the secret to you and that secret is Vegeta. When you find that your pasta dish is unreasonably rich and salty well then you know that the commis chef is in need of extra training for his Vegeta shake. English books & newspapers Algoritam I-2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. ( ) , split@algoritam.hr, QOpen 08:00-20:30, Sat 08:00-13:00. A Profil Superstore I-2, Šubićeva 7, tel. ( ) /( ) , hr. QOpen 08:30-20:30. Closed Sun. A VBZ I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. ( ) , www. vbz.hr. QOpen 09:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-15:00. Closed Sun. A Delicatessen Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. ( ) , edicoposao@yahoo.com, www. vinoteka.hr. QOpen 08:00-20:30, Sat 08:00-13:30. Closed Sun. A Judita - gourmet & wine shop J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. ( ) , info@stella-croatica.hr, www. stella-croatica.hr. QOpen 08:30-22:00. A Kraš I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. ( ) , www. kras.hr. QOpen 07:00-21:00, Sat 07:00-20:00. Closed Sun. A Nadalina J-2, Dioklecijanova 6. QOpen 09:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. A Natura I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. ( ) QOpen 09:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. ( ) , info@uje.hr, QOpen 09:00-21:00, Sun 09:00-17:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 09:00-23:00. A Split Tea House I-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. ( ) , info@kucacaja-split.hr. QOpen 08:30-20:30, Sat 08:30-14:30. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. ( ) , Q Open 08:30-12:30, 17:00-20:30, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Viola D-3/K-3, Bijankinijeva 8, tel. ( ) QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. A Souvenirs Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. ( ) , QOpen 09:00-21:00, Sat 08:00-20:00, Sun 09:00-15:00. A Spalato J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , lidija.hodzic2@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00-21:00. A Think Pink I-2, Kružićeva 6, tel. ( ) , senka.jurisic@gmail.com. Also at (D-3) Zadarska 8. Open 09:00-23:00. QOpen 09:00-21:00. Closed Sun. A

22 42 directory split dalmatia county 43 Banks & Exchanges Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E/F-3, Poljička cesta 39, tel. ( ) , QOpen 08:00-19:00, Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Podravska banka D-2, Ulica slobode 33, tel. (+385-) /(+385-) , QOpen 08:00-16:30, Sat 08:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka D-2, Ulica slobode 7, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , QOpen 08:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Splitska banka - Societe Generale Group F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 16, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , QOpen 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka D-2, Gundulićeva 26/A, tel. ( ) /( ) , QOpen 08:00-19:00, Sat 08:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Business connections Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber (Županijska komora Split) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 4, tel. ( ) , hgkst@hgk.hr, QOpen 07:30-15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of trades and crafts - Split Dalmatia County (Obrtnička komora Splitskodalmatinske županije) F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 28-30, tel. ( ) , ok.split@hok.hr, QOpen 07:00-15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Foreign representations Chile (Consulate) E-1, Boktuljin put bb, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , jbuljubasic@sem.hr. QOpen 08:30-16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark (Consulate) B-3, Supilova 10, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , nenad.muskatelo1@st.tcom.hr. Please make an appointment before visiting. QOpen 09:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Finland (Consulate) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. (+385-) , fax ( ) , milan.senjanovic@ vip.hr, Please arrange an appointment. Germany (Consulate) I-1, Svačićeva 4, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , split@hk-diplo.de, www. zagreb.diplo.de. QOpen 09:00-12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hungary (Consulate) D-2, Gundulićeva 26A, tel. ( ) /( ) , hungconsulate.st@ .t-com.hr, QOpen 09:00-12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. ( ) /( ) , fax ( ) , consolato.spalato@esteri. it, Q Open 09:00-12:00, Thu 09:00-12:00, 15:30-17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Slovenia (Consulate) D-2, Istarska 9, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , generalni.konzulat. rep.slovenije@st.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:30-12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Sweden (Consulate) K-1/2, Držićeva 8, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) QOpen 10:00-12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands (Consulate) D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 1, tel./fax ( ) , silvanakondic@ net.hr, For the rest of the week by prior arrangement over the phone. QOpen 11:00-12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. UK (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. ( ) , fax ( ) , british-consulat-st@st.t-com.hr, www. ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk. Q Open 07:30-15:30, Fri 08:00-14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Real estate Benelli nekretnine D-2/E-2, Dubrovačka 3a, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , info@ benelliestates.com, QOpen 08:30-14:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Consiliator nekretnine J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 10, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , consiliator@consiliator.hr, QOpen 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Trgostan J-2/K-1, Tolstojeva 32, tel. ( ) , /(+385-) , , trgostan@trgostan.hr, QOpen 09:00-15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Translators & Interpretors Lingua-Soft D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 9, tel. ( ) , ls-split@lingua-soft.hr, hr. QOpen 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hospital Bolnica Križine F-3, Šoltanska 1, tel. ( ) Klinički Bolnički Centar (Firule) E-3, Spinčićeva 1, tel. ( ) Dry cleaners & Laundries Self Service Laundrette H-2, Šperun 1, tel. ( ) Self service: 25kn - laundering, 20kn - drying and 5kn - washing powder. 75kn per machine for leaving your clothes for them to do the job for you (washing, drying but not ironing). QOpen 08:00-20: hour pharmacies Lučac E-3, Pupačićeva 4, tel. ( ) , ljekarnasplit@ljekarnasplit.hr, QOpen 00:00-24:00. A Prima Pharme G-2, Kralja Stjepana Držislava 22 (Super Konzum), tel. ( ) , sine@ primapharme.hr, QOpen 00:00-24:00. A Castles of Split Dalmatia County Visitors to the Split region shouldn t just restrict themselves to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian hinterland one of the most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also plays host to a multitude of crumbling fortresses and hilltop castles. Given the region s turbulent history - including centuries of warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks and Venetians - it s no surprise that brooding battle-scarred ruins form such a prominent part of the local landscape. One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction.there is a café right below the fortress. Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress.the Ottoman Turks captured it in Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland. Between Split and Trogir, 20km to the west, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as Kaštela (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Kambelovac, etc.). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. All are accessible by car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an island town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront. Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century and has been well restored. Trogir s Venetian heritage (the Venetians held sway there for three and a half centuries starting in 1420) is clearly evident from the town s lovely architecture. If you go 21km in the opposite direction (southwest) on route 8 from Split you will reach Omiš, which is located at the mouth of the Cetina River. There are the ruins of two castle/ fortresses above the town that have spectacular views.the lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about 300 steps from Šubić Street in the centre of town. There is a gate about a quarter of the way up that is sometimes inexplicably locked. Ask at the town s tourist office first and they ll probably send someone to unlock it. From the top of Mirabela s tower keep there s a sweeping view of Omiš, the river, the sea, and the steep sided mountains that form the sides of the canyon. It s believed that the Kačić family, feudal lords of Omiš during the 12th and 13th centuries, built Mirabela in the early 1200s. Pirates used Mirabela as their lair during medieval times. The Venetians acquired Omiš in 1444 and over time expanded and refortified the redoubt. Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic view by hiking from the center of Omiš to Starigrad (also called Fortica ), a fortress/castle about 500m above the town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail, which begins on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off to Borak is on the south edge of the Omiš town center. You can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, making sure to go straight (don t turn right) when you reach the fork in the road. From that point it is a 45 minutes climb. Fortica was built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipićs, probably in the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts expanded by the Venetians during their centuries-long struggle against the Turks. Gun bastions and embrasures are still clearly visible in the walls, the perfect spot for imagining that you are a defender on the battlements! There are plenty of good hotels and eateries in Omiš, which is a major tourist center. It s a shame that most visitors never venture beyond the beach.

23 split dalmatia county 45 From Omiš take the road on the south side of the Cetina River 18km to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view after another as this road winds through the canyon. There is a fortress with the same name just beyond the water treatment plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power lines above the ruin somewhat mar the atmosphere, but it s still worth checking out Zadvarje s massive walls. Built by the Venetians between 1478 and 1482, Zadvarje was captured and refortified by the Turks in There is a myth that the ghost of Murat, the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied by a local girl he assaulted, roams the castle walls during full moon. Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38km from Zadvarje by routes 39 and 60. Imotski is remote into the Dalmatian hinterland, a place where locals think nothing of stopping their car in the middle of street in town to chat with their friends, not worrying about a trifling traffic jam that might develop. Another distinctive feature of this hilltop town is its two sinkhole lakes, the Blue Lake and the Red Lake. Sheer cliffs tower 150m above the Blue Lake, which is just above the Imotski town center. It takes about 10 minutes to climb up the stone steps to Topana Castle, perched at the top of the cliffs.there is a great view of the coastal mountains from the ramparts of the castle, the location of which was probably first used for defensive purposes by the Romans. Topana is first mentioned in written records around 950. From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.the Turks conquered Imotski in 1493, transforming it into an important seat of local government and refortifying the castle. It wasn t until 1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski continued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish Empire. Battles continued for another decade, resulting in substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed in the early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a military purpose. There are several hotels and restaurants in Imotski. On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might want to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac, which is very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. There is a nicely restored castle above the town centre, accessible via an unusually well marked trail in about minutes. There s a wonderful view in every direction from the castle. Only 10km north and west of Imotski on a secondary (but paved) road is the village of Donji Proložac. Badnjevice Castle/fortress is spectacularly situated on a rocky peak above the village. First mentioned in written records from the 12th century, it s hard to imagine how it could have been built there, but it certainly commands a good view of the surrounding region. Only the hardiest of climbers should attempt to reach this ruin. There are no marked trails, and probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of a local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope. About 80km north and west from Imotski via route 60 and then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of Čačvina. It s easy to spot the castle ruin and a church at the top of a hill above the village. It s an easy, 10 minutes ascent to the castle. There are spectacular views in every direction from Čačvina, which sits at an elevation of 707m. The Nelipčić family built Čačvina in The Turks overan this fortress in the mid 16th century, and it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians and Croats evicted them. In ancient and medieval times Čačvina sat at the crossroads of major trading routes, but today it is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not be able to get an espresso there, but Čačvina s remoteness is one of its charms. The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County hinterland is Sinj, which is only 20km northwest of Čačvina or 34km north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress above Sinj is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest of Dalmatia, Sinj has had a very turbulent history. During the century before and for several centuries after the birth of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes in the area. Sinj s fortifications are first found in written records in about the year 950. It s believed the exsiting fortress was built in the 14th century. The Turks captured Sinj in 1536 and refortified the castle. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in 1686, and the following year a famous image of the Madonna known as the Lady of Sinj ( Sinjska Gospa ) was returned to Sinj. In August 1715 the Turks attempted to retake the Sinj fortress. Although outnumbered, the inhabitants of Sinj defeated the Turks after a week-long battle. The defendents were convinced that the presence of the Madonna painting help them to thwart their more powerful adversaries. The Feast of the Assumption (Velika Gospa; August 15) is, therefore, especially significant for the residents of Sinj, which has several hotels and many restaurants. About 15km northwest of Sinj lies the village and fortress of Potravlje (also known as Potravnik or Travnik ). It commands a stupendous view of coastal mountains to the west, high peaks in Bosnia and the valley occupied by 30km long Lake Peručko to the north. To reach Potravlje you take Route 1 north from Sinj. After about 10km you turn west (left) on a paved road; there is a sign pointing the way to Satrić. After 5.3km you will see a pink house on the right and on the left a line of cypress trees. Turn left at that point and go about 500m, where you can park in the middle of the village and walk up the hill to the castle ruins. There is no discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack through the low scrub brush and grass. Like Čačvina, Potravlje is a rustic but lovely spot. Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipčić dukes in the 14th century. It is first mentioned in written records in The Turks attacked the fortress in 1522 and at first were not successful in taking it. Only after plugging the sources for the castle s water wells, thereby cutting off the defendents water supply, were they able to capture it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in the late 17th century. Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika.

24 46 split dalmatia county split dalmatia county 47 Prozor castle sits prominently above the town, which is at the opposite end of Lake Peručko from Potravlje. Partially restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake and mountains to the east and west. To reach the castle go from the town church 1.5km up the road towards Maovica and Drniš. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive or a minute walk up a not very steep hill to the castle. The Hrvatinić family built Prozor Castle in the early 1400s. As with other towns in the this area, the Ottoman Turks captured the fortress in 1523 and held it until the Venetians expelled them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed an invasion much more recently as well. During the Balkan Wars of the early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called Republic of Serb Krajina for four years. During Operation Storm the Croatian Army pushed the Serbs out in August The large Adriatic islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis also lie within Split Dalmatia County, and there is no shortage of alluring castles in those places, either. A restored fortress overlooks Hvar Town and provides a nice view of the offshore string of Pakleni Islands. You can drive up to the fortress or climb up in a few minutes from the town center. There is an interesting tower made of gigantic stone blocks (shown as Tor on some maps) above the town of Jelsa. One marvels about how those huge blocks could have been raised to such a height and pointed so neatly so many centuries ago. The tower is accessible in about minutes via a marked trail ascending from a dirt road that runs from the village of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel entrance. From the tower there is a breathtaking view of Brač Island to the north. A fortress on the same ridge about a kilometre to the east also is clearly visible. If you have binoculars you may be able to spot the naturist beaches on Jerolim and Stipanska islands off the coast. Brač, too, has a number of castles and fortresses in its coastal villages and interior. For details please see the article about Brač activities in this issue of In Your Pocket. Islands Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish. The island s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day s catch, which is then prepared for the evening s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there s something for everyone. Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest. If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules. Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your activities from what s listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating from An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle s suspension. Both trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation. Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic. If you are going to be on Brač for a week there s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau about where that is possible. Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible - a tort lawyer s dream. There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They re located between Supetar and Donji Humac. Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

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26 50 split dalmatia county split dalmatia county 51 Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section. Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga. Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected. The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.the western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns. Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, yo u l l e n c o u n te r historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen s Cathedral (16-17th century) s t y l e d b y l o c a l masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form. On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy ( ) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture ( ) atop an older one from Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it s craftsmanship of unique lace made from agave fibres. Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, Adriatic photo service heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration. Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan). Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the Fields which was formed around a square and its current look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries. The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not far from Jelsa, you ll come across the small villages of Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness. Only 7km east of Jelsa, you ll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, B.C. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska Little Venice due to it s small bridges with which it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You ll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call you d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the Plavac Mali (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On island s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line). Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side. The island s mountains aren t very high, however, with their coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving. Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties Bogdanuša and Drenkuša which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of Plavac Mali due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine Zlatan Plavac (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates. Vis The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty. The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac. Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms. The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split. Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city. Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress Gospina batarija (Our Lady s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis. Adriatic photo service

27 52 split dalmatia county split dalmatia county 53 The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Cyprian) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below. The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form. Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn t be the marvel that it is. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience! It s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the island of sweetness. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel spirits. And, let s not forget the island s charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel. Surroundings Makarska Riviera A stay in the Riviera offers all of the things you can find on any normal Croatian holiday (beautiful scenery, crystal clear water, etc.), along with a few added bonuses that might make it particularly attractive for some visitors. The first of these things might be the Riviera s namesake, the city of Makarska. The main highlight of this small coastal town might well be its promenade, the palm-lined Marineta street, where cafés, bars and shops keep watch over the nearby harbour. The town s horizon is dominated by nearby Biokovo mountain range, a must-see for visitors to Makarska. At 1762m, Biokovo is the highest mountain in Dalmatia and is marked with over thirty hiking trails of varying difficulty and abounds with caves, the remains of ancient villages, all sorts of wildlife scampering about and even a botanical garden, making it an absolute haven for hiking enthusiasts. From the top of the mountain on a clear day, you can see every island in Dalmatia stretching out beneath you. If that s not enough to satiate your travel hunger, the rest of the Riviera is dotted with a number of tiny, quiet towns that are numerous enough to avoid becoming bogged down by the summer tourist explosion. Towns such as Baška Voda, Podgora and Gradac could be ideal stopping points on a meandering trip through the Riviera, with plenty of time taken to soak up the sun, laze on beautiful beaches and get to know a bit about life in each place along the way. Adriatic photo service Omiš Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course through the countryside until it finally emptying into the Adriatic.The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and picturesque town that is the center of what has become known as the Omiš Riviera. However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called arrows, so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river. While it s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttraveling pirate ships, there s still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the town make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue and the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century. And when you re finished exploring the natural beauty of Omiš and it s history, the town s central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš. Fancy a little rafting, canyoning, trekking or perhaps a canoe safari in between swimming and sunning yourself? All you need to do is contact the Omiš area agencies below. Let the adventure begin! Active Holidays Knezova Kačića bb, tel. ( ) /( ) , info@activeholidays. hr, Q Open 08:00-13:00, 17:00-21:00. Almissa larus Vukovarska bb (Galeb Camp), tel. ( ) , almissa-larus@galeb.hr, www. almissa-larus.hr. QOpen 07:00-21:00. A Dalmatino tours Put ribnjaka bb, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , info@dalmatino-tours.com, QOpen 09:00-20:00. Jut Podgrađe bb, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , jut@jut-cetina.hr, Q Open by prior arrangement. Rafting Pinta Rogač 1/10, Duće, tel. ( ) /(+385-) , contact@rafting-pinta.com, Q Open by prior arrangement. Ružmarin Put Skalica 5, tel. ( ) , uprava@ruzmarin.hr, QOpen 08:00-21:00. A Slap Slime, Zadvarje, tel. ( ) , slap@ st.t-com.hr, QOpen 08:00-22:00. A Solin Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity s early history. According to the Bible, Paul s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of Croatia s Pompeii. Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path. Adriatic photo service Trogir Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras. Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian towns, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the town finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the town s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

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29 56 BiRdWatchiNg in croatia BiRdWatchiNg in croatia 57 Note: this is not a specialist or expert text on birdwatching but a general overview of birdwatching in Croatia. The text has been prepared in cooperation with the web portal and with the kind assistance of Mr Darko Podravec, with our thanks. Birdwatching in Croatia is only recently gaining in popularity, partly due to the interest shown by visitors from other European countries, notably Great Britain. However, local ornithological societies and other organisations, including schools, are also making a significant contribution through monitoring the numbers of birds, organising volunteer camps for tagging birds and raising awareness about the need not only to protect birds but the environment as a whole. According to data from the State Directorate for the Protection of Nature and the Environment, in December 1999 there were 371 bird species in Croatia, an exceptionally high number for a country of this size. There are 228 nesting species, of which 78 are registered as endangered species in Europe. At the same time, Croatia has an exceptionally high number of endangered species due to disappearing habitats, especially wetlands, and due to poaching. The majority of protected species are to be found in hard-toreach areas such as mountain peaks, cliff faces and gorges, and areas such as the Neretva delta on the Adriatic coast and along the Sava and Drava rivers in the north, as well as close to the large fish farms to be found in Pannonian Croatia. Today in Croatia there are 19 bird reserves engaged in nature protection in areas where there are large bird populations, large numbers of species of birds, or where endangered species are to be found. Birdlife International has identified 23 Important Bird Areas in Croatia, while the State Directorate for the Protection of Nature and the Environment has recognised 40 areas which are important for bird life. Some of these areas are bird reserves, some form parts of national parks or nature parks, while others do not enjoy any form of protection. Waterbird Census Darko Podravec Bird lovers can take part in the International Winter Waterbird Census, organised by Wetlands International on a global level. Taking place over three weeks at the beginning of January every year, the census aims to collect information on the ever more endangered bird species that inhabit marshes and other wetland habitats, as well as on species that nest in the far northern regions of Europe and Asia. Read more on Although there are birdwatching opportunities all year round, the liveliest seasons are spring and autumn. Autumn signals both the departure of species that nest in Croatia and the arrival of visitors from northern Europe and Asia. In spring, the species that spend their winters in the warmer climes of Africa return to nest. At any time, you might spot a species that is just passing through en route to somewhere else: Croatia is a bottleneck on the migratory route to and from Africa for a large number of European bird species. There are guide books available to help you identify species and understand their behaviour. The best times of the day for birdwatching are the early morning and early evening. At these times, birds are at their most active, especially during the summer when birds, like people, avoid the hottest part of the day. Of course, if you do go birdwatching, it s vital to take care not to disturb the birds. Large numbers of visitors to national parks, nature parks and bird reserves may be distressing to their inhabitants, and disturbing the birds prevents us from being able to observe their natural behaviour. It is advisable to avoid getting too close to bird nests, since you risk the parents abandoning the nests, which is disastrous, especially where endangered species are concerned. The equipment you need for birdwatching includes good quality binoculars and a handbook which classifies birds by species. You ll also be glad of a good camera and sensible clothing. Obviously, you should avoid bright colours which will scare the birds away. Many birdwatchers pass on the information they collect to the institutions responsible for the protection of birds or to ornithological societies, which is of great help to these organisations in monitoring changes in the number of birds, in their behaviour and habitats. The first bird reserve in Croatia Krapje đol, not far from the villages of Krapje and Jasenovac in central Croatia, was designated a bird reserve in Here, a tributary of the River Sava provides ideal nesting conditions for the Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia). The tributary sadly dried up due to the construction of an embankment and became overgrown. However, the species which nest here, which are rare both in European and global terms, have been saved thanks to a canal which was built to restore the flow of water. Darko Podravec Since birdwatching in Croatia is still not very common, below we list a range of organisations which might be of interest to nature lovers, although there might neither be much information about birds in specific nor professional guides. Before visiting any protected area, we ask you to please contact the organisation responsible, which will give you any instructions and warnings necessary to protect fragile habitats, enabling as many people as possible to enjoy the beauty of nature as well as learning how to protect it. Darko Podravec EuroBirdwatch Darko Podravec Bird lovers by now have a date in their diary every year for the first weekend in October, when the annual EuroBirdwatch is held. Organised by BirdLife, a global partnership of conservation organisations, the event aims to raise awareness of issues related to bird migration, to promote protection of endangered bird species and to recruit new members for the partner organisations. See The Pantan wetlands area near Trogir was declared a nature reserve for fish and bird life in the year Unfortunately, this once extensive marshland was encroached upon by nearby built up areas in the past, and as yet there are no organised birdwatching activities, but Pantan is nevertheless a valuable example of a marsh area on the eastern Adriatic where salt water mingles with fresh water, and it provides an important stop on the migratory path for wetland birds. The public institution Dalmatian Nature is responsible for the management of this nature reserve: if you are interested in visiting Pantan, please contact them in advance. Dalmatian Nature Public institute for natural heritage managment, Braće Kaliterna 10. Tel. ( ) ,

30 58 index street RegisteR 59 Aci Grašo 22 Adria 21 Adriana 18 Adriana 22 Agroresort Bračka Perla 20 Apetit 22 Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) 30 Art 17 Art&čok 23 As 18 Atrium 17 Bellevue 18 Bifora 27 Biševo 21 Bistro Black Cat 22 Bluesun Hotel Borak 20 Boban 22 Bobis-Riva 24 Bota Šare 23 Caffe Gallery Ave 26 Cardo 22 City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) 30 Consul 18 Croatia 20 Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski muzej) 30 Dalmina 17 Delta 23 Diocletian s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) 28 Dujam 18 Duje 22 Element bar 27 Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) 31 Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) 30 Favola 26 Fife 23 Fish Market (Ribarnica) 28 Gaga 26 Galerija 24 Galija 24 Ghetto 27 Globo 17 Green Market (Pazar) 28 Grgur Ninski 33 Gušt 24 Hemingway 27 Hvaranin 24 Il posto 22 Issa 21 Jugo 23 Jungla 27 Kadena 22 Kalafatić 26 Kantun Paulina 23 Kavana Procaffe 26 Kibela 24 Kocka 27 Kod Joze 24 Konoba Leut 24 Konoba Varoš 25 Kuća sladoleda Carmen 24 La Maison de Sarah 24 Le Meridien 21 Le Monde 23 Lučica 25 Lvxor 26 Makrovega 25 Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) 28 Marmont 17 Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) 33 Maslina 24 Mc Donald s 23 Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine Kaštelet 31 More 18 Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) 31 Narodni (People s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca) 34 Noštromo 23 O Hara 27 Obojena Svjetlost 27 Oštarija u Viđakovi 25 Palača Dešković 20 Park 17 Pašike 21 Pastura 20 Peristil 18 Pimpinella 25 Po Bota 26 Poljud Stadium 34 Posejdon 23 President 17 Prokurative (Trg Republike) 33 Puls2 27 Red room 27 Riva 28 Riva 21 Rizzo 23 Saint Dominic s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) 32 San Antonio 21 Šetač 26 Silver Central 20 Silver Gate 20 Slavija 18 Šperun 25 Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) 32 Split Hostel Booze and Snooze 20 St Riva 27 Stelon 23 Teak caffe 26 Teraca Bamba 26 Terra Antika 25 The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) 32 The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) 32 The Church of Saint Martin (Golden gate) (Crkvica sv. Martina) 32 The Franciscan Church and Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) 32 The Palace 21 The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) 30 The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare) 33 The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) 32 Tonik Juicy Bar 26 Tradicija 24 Vanilla 27 Veli Varoš 32 Velo misto No 1 24 Vestibul Palace 17 Vidilica 26 Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće Radića) 34 Waterman Svpetrvs Resort 20 Žbirac 26 Zlatna ribica 25 Zlatna vrata 24 Zoološki vrt 34 Zrno zdravog života 25 Adriatic photo service A. Cesarca C-3 Ante Petravića E-1/F-1 Antuna Branka Šimića E-3 Arapova C-2, H-2 Babina C-3, H-3 Bakotićeva C-2 Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2 Ban Berislavićeva C-2 Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2 Barakovićeva E-3 Barešićeva F-2/G-2 Barićeva H-2 Bartola Kašića C-3 Begovićeva C-3 Benkovačka E-2 Bernarda Vukasa E-2 Bihaćka D-2, J-1 Bijankinijeva D-3, K-3 Bilanova H-2 Bilice I G-1 Bilice II G-1 Biogradska G-3 Biokovska D-2, K-1 Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1 Bjelovarska E-2 Blatine E-3 Blaža Trogiranina B-3 Bleiburških žrtava D-2 Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2 Bolska D-2, K-1 Borčićeva C-3, H-2 Bosanska I-2 Botićevo šetalište C-3 Bože Peričića E-3 Bračka F-3 BračkaUvala Zenta E-3 Brajevića prilaz H-3 Branimirova obala C-3, H-3 Bregovita D-3 Bribirska D-2, J-1 Brune Bušića E-2 Bubalova K-3 Bukovčeva D-3 Bulićeva J-2 Buvnina I-2 Catanijin put C-3 Cesta mira F-2 Cosmijeva I-2 Cvjetna E-3 Čiovska B-3 Čulića dvori D-2/D-3, J-2 Ćiril-Metodova D-2, I-2 Dinarska E-2 Dinka Šimunovića F-3 Dioklecijanova J-2 Dobrić I-2 Dobrilina E-3/F-3 Domaldova I-2 Dominisova J-2 Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2, J-1 Doverska F-3/G-3 Drage Ivaniševića E-2 Dragovode G-2 Dražanac C-3, H-3 Drniška E-1/F-1 Drvenička B-3 Držićeva D-2 DržićevaK-1/K-2 Dubrovačka D-2/E-2 Dumanića K-3 Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3 Duvanjska D-3 Fra Bonina C-2 Fra Grge Martića E-2 Fra Luje Maruna K-2 Franje Račkog D-2, K-1 Gajeva C-2, H-1 Getaldićeva F-2 Glagoljaška D-3, K-2 Gorička D-2, J-1/K-1 Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1 Gospinica E-3 Grada Antofagaste C-2 Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1 Grge Novaka E-2 Gundulićeva D-2 Harambašićeva C-2, H-1 Hektorovićeva E-3 Hercegovačka E-1 Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2 Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2 Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3 Hvarska D-3, K-3 I. G. Kovačića D-3 Ilićev prolaz I-2 Iločka E-2 Imotska F-1 Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3 Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1 Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3??City?? In Your Pocket

31 60 street RegisteR street RegisteR 61 Ivana Raosa F-1 Jadranska D-3 Jakova Gotovca F-2 Janjevska F-2/G-2 Jerina H-2 Jerolima Kavanjina I-1 Jesenička K-3 Jobova C-2 Kačićeva D-2, I-1 Kamenita C-2, H-1/H-2 Kapićeva E-3 Karamanova C-2 Karlovačka E-2 Kaštelanova E-3 Kaštelanska C-2 Katalinićev prilaz D-3 Kijevska F-2 Klaićeva poljana I-2 Klarina D-3, K-3 Kliška D-2 Kliška J-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2 Kneza Mislava D-3, K-2 Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3, K-2 Kninska D-2, I-2 Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2 Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C-2/C-3 Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2 Kopilica E-1 Kotorska G-3 Kozjačka C-2, H-1/H-2 Kragićeva H-1 Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2 Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3 Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2 Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3 Kranjčevićeva E-3 Krbavska F-2 Krešimirova J-2 Križanićeva E-2 Križine F-3 Krležina E-2 Kroz smrdečac F-3 Krste Odaka E-3 Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2 Kruševića gumno J-1 Kukočeva K-3 Kukuljevićeva E-2 Kumičićeva E-1 Adriatic photo service Kupreška F-1 Kuzmanićeva K-3 Kuzmića F-1, K-3 Kvaternikova D-2 Laginjina E-2 Lazarica E-3 Lička F-1 Livanjska D-2, J-1 Lovački put G-2 Lovretska D-2 Lovrićeve skale E-3 Lučica C-2 Lučićeva D-2, F-3 Ljubuška F-1 Makarska G-3 Mandalinski put C-2 Manđerova Manuška poljana J-1 Marangunićevo šetalište A-3 Marasovića C-3, H-3 Marjanski put B-3 Marjanski tunel C-3 Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1 Marulićeva J-2 Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2 Matije Gupca D-3 Matije Ivanića E-2 Matoševa C-2, H-1 Matošića D-2, I-2 Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2 Mediteranski put C-1 Mejaši I G-2 Mejaši II G-2 Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3 Mile Gojsalića D-3 Milićeva C-2/C-3, H-2 Mišina F-2 Mitnička E-3 Moliških Hrvata F-3 Mosećka E-2/F-2 Mosorska D-3, K-3 Mostarska F-1 Mostine G-1 Mrčelina I-2 Na Križice E-3 Na Toć J-3 Narodni trg D-3, I-2 Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1 Nelipćeva D-3, I-2 Nepotova D-3 Neslanovac F-1 Nigerova I-2 Ninska F-2 Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2 Njegoševa C-3 Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3 Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3 Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3 Obrov D-3, I-2 Odeska G-3 Omiška D-3, K-3 Osječka E-2/E-3 Ostravska G-2 Ozaljska F-2/G-2 Palmina C-3, H-2/H-3 Palmotićeva D-3/E-3 Papalićeva J-2 Papandopulova F-3 Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2 Pazinska F-2 Penića H-2 Perića C-3 Perišićeva C-3, H-2 Perivoj Ane Roje F-2 Pervanova K-3 Petra Kružića I-2 Petrićeva K-2/K-3 Petrinjska E-2 Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3 Pistura I-2 Plančićeva C-2 Plinarska C-2, H-1 Plitvička E-1 Pod Kosom C-3 Podgorska C-2, H-1 Podrum J-2/J-3 Pojišanska D-3, K-3 Poljička cesta E-3/F-3 Poljudsko šetalište C-1 Popovićeva I-2 Porinova D-2, I-1 Požeška E-2 Pujanke F-2 Puntarska C-2 Pupačićeva E-3 Put Brda F-1 Put Brodarice D-2 Put Dragovoda G-2 Put Duja E-1 Put Firula E-3 Put Glavičina D-2 Put iza nove bolnice E-3 Put Meja C-3 Put Mostina G-1 Put Pazdigrada G-3 Put Plokita D-2 Put Ravnih Njiva F-1 Put Sjeverne Luke F-1 Put Skalica C-2/D-2 Put Smokvice F-1 Put Supavla D-1 Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3 Put Trstenika F-3 Put Žnjana F-3/G-3 R. Boškovića E-3/F-3 R. Katalinića Jeretova F-2 Radmilovića C-2, H-1 Radnička E-2 Radovanova D-3, J-3 Radunica D-3, J-2 Ramska E-1 Reića C-3, H-2 Reljkovićeva D-2, K-2 Rendićeva C-2 Riječka J-1 Rodrigina I-2/J-2 Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2 Rooseweltova E-3 Sarajevska F-1 Savska D-2/E-2 Senjska C-3, H-2 Severova D-3, J-3 Sinovčića H-2 Sinjska D-2, J-1 Siriščevića H-2/H-3 Skradinska G-3 Slavićeva C-2, J-1 Slavonska E-2 Smiljanićeva D-2, K-2 Solinska F-1/G-1 Solurat C-3, H-3 Spinčićeva E-3 Spinutska C-2 Sredmanuška J-2 Stagnja H-2 Starčevićeva D-2 Stari Pazar D-3, J-3 Stepinčeva E-2 Stinice E-1 Stoci G-1 Stonska G-3 Studinova F-2 Sućidar E-2 Sukoišanska D-2 Supilova B-3 Sustipanski put C-3 Sutroičin put C-1/D-1 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2 Svačićeva D-2, I-1 Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2 Svilajska E-2 Š. Bačvice D-3 Šegvićeva J-3/K-3 Šenoina C-3, H-2 Šetalište BeneGunjačina B-2 Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3 Šetalište Marina Tartaglie A-2/B- 2/C-2 Šibenska E-2 Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3 Škrape E-3 Šoltanska F-3 Šopova G-2 Šperun C-3, H-2 Šubićeva I-2 Table D-2 Teslina C-2 Težački put G-2 Tijardovićeva F-2 Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1 Tomića Stine H-2 Tončićeva D-2/D-3, I-2 Trg Braće Radić I-2 Trg Gaje Bulata I-1 Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2 Triljska F-1 Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2 Trondheimska F-2/F-3 Trpimirova D-3, J-3 Trstenik F-3 Tršćanska D-2 Trumbićeva obala C-3, H-3 Trumbučac J-3/K-3 Ulica Slobode D-2 Uskočka E-3 Uvala Baluni C-3 V. Krstulovića E-3 V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3 Valpovačka E-2 Varaždinska E-2 Velebitska D-2/E-2 Vesanovića K-3 Vetranićeva C-3 Vidilica D-3 Vijugasta H-1 Viktora Vide G-2 Vinka Draganje E-2 Vinkovačka E-2 Vinodolska F-2 Viskotina K-3 Visoka F-2 Viška D-3 Vjekoslava Paraća E-2 Vladimira Gortana H-2 Vrančićeva E-2 Vranjički put E-1/F-1 Vrgoračka G-2 Vrh Kmana E-2 Vrh Lučac D-3, K-3 Vrh Visoke F-2 Vrlička F-1 Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3 Vukasovićeva D-2, J-2 Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1 Washingtonova D-2, K-1 Zadarska G-1, I-2 Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21 Zagrebačka D-2, J-2/J-3 Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2 Zlodrina poljana D-3, J-3 Zoranićeva D-2, I-1 Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2 Zupina F-2 Zvizdina J-3 Žmovnička D-3/E-3

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