CUBA IN-DEPTH LEGACIES & LANDSCAPES

Transcription

1 CUBA IN-DEPTH LEGACIES & LANDSCAPES A PEOPLE TO PEOPLE PROGRAM OCTOBER 25-NOVEMBER 4, 2017 Traverse the island nation from east to west on a comprehensive journey examining the history, politics, and vibrant culture that make Cuba such a compelling destination. From Santiago to Havana, our stunning program features exclusive lectures, private performances, artistic demonstrations and interpretations, and informal conversations with local Cubans. During a four-night stay in Havana, witness the extensive restoration of the city s monuments and Colonial buildings and immerse yourself in the Cuban art community through guided tours of museums, meetings with artists in their studios, and discussions with local curators. While staying at the best available hotel accommodations, our program focuses on unique access opportunities allowing a deeper understanding of Cuba s history, where it is today, and where it might be in five years time. The Harvard Alumni Association is operating this educational program under a general license authorized by the Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC). This program differs from more traditional trips in that every hour must be accounted for. Each day has been structured to provide meaningful interactions with Cuban people or educational or cultural programming. Please note that Harvard University intends to fully comply with all requirements of the general license. Travelers must participate in all group activities. GROUP SIZE: 15 to 25 guests PRICING: $7,295 per person double occupancy / $985 single supplement STUDY LEADER: Michael Starnbach is a professor in The Department of Microbiology And Immunobiology. For the past 15 years, Dr. Starnbach has recruited Harvard scientists to teach Microbiology and Immunology courses in Cuba, building relationships with Cuban Scientists at the University of Havana and the Instituto Pedro Kourí, the national reference center for infectious diseases research and control in Cuba. Despite the extreme regulatory challenges, Dr. Starnbach has hosted a number of Cuban scientists in his Harvard lab to conduct productive collaborative research. He also has been at the forefront of advocating to US government officials the value of collaborating with Cuban scientists on public health challenges common to both countries. Dr. Starnbach received his A.B. degree in biology from Vassar College and his PhD in Microbiology and Immunology from Stanford University. Before coming to Harvard Medical School, Dr. Starnbach pursued postdoctoral research in immunology at the University of Washington. He has been at Harvard Medical School since 1995.

2 SCHEDULE BY DAY B=Breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner TUESDAY, OCTOBER 24 INDEPENDENT ARRIVALS IN MIAMI/FORT LAUDERDALE Since the flight to Santiago may depart early in the morning from either Miami or Fort Lauderdale on Wednesday, October 25, we suggest you arrive in this area no later than Tuesday, October 24, You are responsible for your own travel arrangements to Florida and for your own hotel reservations on October 24. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25 SANTIAGO, CUBA This morning take a direct flight from Miami to Santiago, the second largest city in Cuba. With its east-facing position and proximity to Jamaica and Haiti, Santiago has a rich racial mixture and some of the most exciting music, art, and architecture in the Caribbean. The former capital of Cuba (until 1553), this port city is also an industrial center. The distilleries of the original Bacardi rum are located here. Enjoy lunch at El Moro Restaurant, set atop the cliffs along the coast with fabulous views. Then visit San Pedro de la Roca Castle (also known as Morro Castle), a UNESCO World Heritage site. This multi-level stone fortress is built into a rocky promontory and has guarded the entrance to Santiago de Cuba Bay since From the battlements of the castle there is a spectacular view of the harbor and its bottleneck entrance. The interior of the castle houses the Museo de la Pirateria, an exhibition of pirates during the colonial and modern eras. In the evening attend an orientation and an introductory lecture followed by dinner at a local restaurant. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 26 SANTIAGO Take the full day to explore Santiago. Begin at the Museo de Arte Colonial, said to be the oldest house in Cuba. It was built in 1516 as the home of Cuba s conqueror, Diego Velázquez. Stop next at Casa Heredia, the birthplace of Santiago s most famous poet, perhaps best known for his poem Ode to Niagara, and at the Carnival Museum to learn about this major event that has been part of the city s traditions since At Plaza Dolores visit the Jesuit Dolores College where Fidel Castro was educated as a youth. Then stop at the Cementario Santa Ifigenia, which has been in use since Among the many notable figures buried here are Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, Emilio Bacardi, and Cuba s national hero, Jose Martí. Drive past the Moncada Barracks, which was stormed by Fidel Castro and 79 soldiers dressed in Cuban Army uniforms on July 26, The building now houses a museum that tells the tale of the attack, the Revolution, and subsequent history. Also drive by the Plaza de la Revolucion, dominated by a massive monument to Antonio Maceo, the herogeneral of the War of Independence. After lunch drive to the Basilica del Cobre, which takes its name from the large copper mine the Spanish established in the 16th century. The church, Cuba s only basilica, is known for its offerings and as the shrine to La Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre (Virgin of Charity), patron saint of Cuba, to whom miraculous powers are ascribed. In 1952, Hemingway dedicated his Nobel Prize for Literature to the Virgin, although the medal is now in the custody of the Archbishop of Santiago. Dinner this evening is at Café Matamoros, located on the Plaza Dolores. Overnight: To be announced (L, D)

3 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27 CAMAGUEY Depart the hotel this morning and drive east to Camaguey, stopping en route in the city of Las Tunas, which lies slightly over 400 miles east of Havana. The city, originally named Las Tunas was, in 1869, renamed Victoria de Las Tunas, a title given it by its Spanish governor to commemorate a colonial victory over the Cubans. The name reverted to Las Tunas in 1895, following the battle in which the Cubans finally took back the city. These days Las Tunas is a center for trade in the production of sugar and chemicals. After lunch, travel to Camaguey and check in at the Gran Hotel. Before dinner, we will have the opportunity to take a private Salsa class. Salsa has its origins in Cuba, where the blending of African drum rhythms and Spanish guitar evolved into a variety of Latin American music. Son, Danzón, the rhythms of Carnival, Cha Cha Cha, Mambo, Salsa, and even Tango came out of Cuba. The Salsa movements originate from the Cuban Son dancing of the 1920s. Today's Salsa dancing is a rich blend of Latin- American and Western influences. Overnight: Gran Hotel (B, L, D) wealth could be measured by the number of clay pots in their possession. Now, the pots are a symbol of the city. Tour the home of the Ballet of Camaguey Founded by Fernado Alonso (former husband of the well-known dancer Alicia Alonso), the Ballet of Camaguey has won several awards and offers a wide repertoire ranging from classics like "Giselle" to more avant-garde plays. In the afternoon drive to Minas to visit a special violin workshop opened in The workshop is run by Alvaro Suarez Ravinal with over 50 years of violin making experience. With the Cuban Ministry of Culture, he is training locals to turn native hardwoods into elegantly carved violins. During the 19th century, Camaguey was the center of the rebellion against Spain. Schedule permitting, attend an Alfareros baseball game. The Alfareros team represents Camaguey in the Cuban National Series. Formed after the Cuban state redefined its provinces in 1977, the Alfareros advanced the next season to the league championship series, but fell to Henequeneros of Matzanas. SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28 CAMAGUEY During the 19th century, Camaguey was the center of the rebellion against Spain. The most famous native son is General Ignacio Agramonte renowned for many feats of bravery. Camaguey was also the birthplace of Carlos Finlay, the doctor who first linked the mosquito with the yellow fever germ. Today explore the large colonial core of the city, recognized as a national monument containing more old buildings than any other city save Havana. Visit a number of buildings including the Casa Natal de Ignacio Agramonte, the birthplace of the patriotic hero and the mansion where his family lived for many years. Now a museum, the house preserves the original furniture and a number of enormous clay pots. Historically, a family s SUNDAY, OCTOBER 29 TRINIDAD En route to the Cienfuegos/Trinidad area stop at Ciego de Avila, a small city of shaded colonnaded shop-fronts. Founded in 1840, Ciego de Avila is the most modern of Cuba s provincial capitals. After lunch, continue to the Valle de Los Ingenios, a living museum of the sugar industry, featuring 75 ruined sugar mills, summer mansions, barracks, and other facilities related to the field. The famous Manaca-Iznaga Tower, built in 1816, is almost 150 feet tall. The tolling of its bells once marked the beginning and end of working hours on the sugar plantations. Check-in to a local hotel in the Cienfuegos area. Dinner will be at the hotel.

4 MONDAY, OCTOBER 30 CIENFUEGOS / TRINIDAD This morning, drive for just over an hour to Trinidad, the fourth of the seven cities founded by Diego de Velasquez in 1514 as a base for expeditions into the New World. Today it is just as the Spaniards left it in its period of greatest opulence. It is the crown jewel of Cuba s colonial cities. The whole city with its fine palaces, cobbled streets and tiled roofs, is a national monument and, since 1988 a UNESCO World Heritage site. Trinidad s prosperity rested on the sugar industry, which was introduced in the 18th century. As a result of the wealth that the sugar industry brought, Trinidad s cultural life flourished. Schools of languages, music and dance were opened and a wide variety of artisans set up businesses, including gold and silversmiths. In 1827 the Teatro Candamo opened its doors. The well-off patricians built huge mansions for themselves (now museums) and sent their children to European universities. However, during the second half of the 19th century the Industrial Revolution and increased sugar beet production in Europe led to the decline of Trinidad s slaverybased economy. Construction ceased and the city remained frozen in time. Walk through the town and the maze of cobbled streets lined with terra-cotta tiled roofed houses in soft pastel colors. Much of the architecture is neo-classical and baroque, with a Moorish flavor reflecting the town s heritage of conquistadores. The exquisite buildings are fronted by mahogany balustrades, fancy grills of wrought iron, turned wooden rods and massive wooden doors with postigos (small windows) that open to let the breezes flow through cool, tile floored rooms connected by double-swing half-doors. Stop in at Trinidad s library where the group will learn more about the important role of libraries in Cuba. Meeting with staff at the library, the discussion will focus on the subject of intellectual freedom, a passionately debated issue. Participants will learn more about how books are selected and what censorship occurs as well as how Havana exerts control in more rural areas. We recommend that you bring a copy of your favorite novel to donate to the museum! Enjoy lunch just off the Plaza Mayor at a new private restaurant where we will meet its owner who has taken advantage of the relaxed regulations regarding private enterprise in Cuba. He will talk about his experiences of opening and running a restaurant in Trinidad. After lunch, continue to the home of Julio Munõz, one of Trinidad s most dynamic and charismatic personalities, and his wife Rosa. Munõz comes from a line of prominent Spanish immigrants and their spacious, ochrecolored family casa sits on a sunny corner of Trinidad, adjoining the maternity clinic where Julio was born. The house has been in his family for generations, though they lost their other properties and businesses after the revolution. Julio was trained as an electronic engineer, but today is a renowned photographer and a proud Workers Union representative. However, he has more recently become known for his skills as a horse whisperer, a skill he discovered by chance when he began working with horses on a photography assignment. He also runs the Diana Project, named after his first horse that died in an accident. The Diana Project promotes better equine care and educates local farmers and cowboys in humane horsetraining techniques. Julio welcomes the opportunity to discuss with you his role as one of Trinidad s most prominent entrepreneurs, and the Diana Project. Dinner is at a private restaurant. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 31 In the morning drive to Havana, stopping en route at the Bay of Pigs where, in 1962, about 1,300 heavily armed CIA-trained Cuban exiles came ashore fully equipped to provoke a counterrevolution to topple the Castro regime. Enjoy lunch at a restaurant close to Playa Giron. Before arriving in Havana make a stop at Ernest Hemingway s home, which has been

5 lovingly preserved by the Cuban government. The house is just as Hemingway left it, with the books on the tables and many of his favorite photographs on display. Although one can only admire the home from the outside, it is a fascinating visit. Before checking into the hotel, stop at the historic Hotel Nacional for a welcome drink in the hotel s hall of fame. Designed by the famous New York firm McKim, Mead and White, the hotel features an eclectic mix of architectural styles. It opened in 1930 when Cuba was a prime travel destination for Americans, long before the embargo. In 1955 the infamous organized crime figure Meyer Lansky managed to persuade then President Fulgencio Batista to give him a piece of the Nacional. Lansky refurbished a wing of the grand entrance hall and added a bar, restaurant, showroom, and a luxurious casino. Check-into the Parque Central Hotel ideally located on the edge of old Havana. Enjoy dinner at a local restaurant this evening. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 1 This morning begin exploring Old Havana by foot. Admire the many squares, its cathedral, and a scale model of Old Havana, which serves as an excellent introduction to the lay-out of the city. Of all the capital cities in the Caribbean, Havana has the reputation of being the most splendid and the finest example of a Spanish colonial city in the Americas. Restoration work in the old part of the city helps reveal the glories of the past. Many of its palaces were converted into museums after the Revolution and more work has been done since the old city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in While much of Cuba's infrastructure has crumbled and its economy has limped along, more than 300 landmark buildings in Old Havana have been refurbished. From fortresses built in the colonial days to famous nightspots and hotels of the city's swinging era just before the Cuban revolution, the key to the renaissance of the old city has been a strategy of restoring old hotels, restaurants, and historic sites to attract tourists, then using the revenue from tourism to finance more restoration. End the morning at the Plaza Vieja, a beautiful old square whose former decay is being reversed through caring restoration. Lunch will be at a local restaurant called Moneda Cubana. This afternoon continue exploring Havana by bus with Ayleen Robaina, an architectural historian. Drive along La Rampa and past the University of Havana. View Havana s tall office buildings and hotels from the 1950s such as the former Havana Hilton, as well as Art Déco and Streamline modern style apartments influenced by South Beach in Miami. See the wonderful Riviera Hotel which was considered a marvel of modern design when it opened in 1958 (it was owned at the time by Meyer Lansky). Parts of the public areas of the hotel have recently been restored to recapture its 1950s ambience. Dinner is at Café Oriente, an elegant government-run restaurant located in the heart of old Havana. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2 This morning attend a lecture and discussion on US/Cuban Relations led by Professor Raul Rodriguez from the University of Havana. Dr. Rodriguez has written extensively on US/Cuban Relations including an article written for the David Rockefeller Center for Latin American Studies. After the discussion, visit the Presidential Palace, now known as the home of the Revolutionary Museum. The history of Cuban political development is illustrated here from the slave uprisings to joint missions with the ex-soviet Union. Although undergoing renovation, the Revolutionary Museum is still open for visits. The Granma Memorial, which preserves the vessel that brought Fidel Castro, Che Guevara, and other

6 revolutionaries from Mexico to Cuba in 1956, is across the street. Continue on to the 331 ArtSpace studio to view the works of three young and emerging artists: Adrian Fernandez, Frank Mujica, and Alex Hernandez. Enjoy lunch at the home of art curator Milagros Borges Gomez to enjoy her lovely home and admire art works by many different Cuban artists including Kunta, Ruben Rodriquez, Salvador Corratge and Orestes Hernandez. After lunch, drive a very short distance to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes: Arte Cubano (Cuban Collection). The museum s origins date back to 1842 when the San Alejandro Art Academy started its collection, forming the nucleus of the museum founded in It expanded greatly after Castro took over in 1959, notably with works from the private collections of Julio Lobo and Oscar Cintas. The tour this morning will be accompanied by Lucila Hernandez, a contemporary art curator. Dinner is on your own this evening. Restaurant recommendations and reservation assistance will be provided. FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 3 After breakfast this morning attend a lecture and discussion with Professor Ricardo Torres on The Changing Forces of Cuba s Economic Structure. Professor Torres is a macroeconomist at the Center for the Study of the Cuban Economy at the University of Havana. He has also been a visiting professor at Harvard s David Rockefeller Center for Latin American Studies. After the discussion, visit NostalgiCar, a classic car mechanic shop. Here you will meet with the owner of the shop who will talk about his business. From the shop, drive in the classic cars to a private lunch at the home and studio of artist Jose Fuster, who has turned his neighborhood into one enormous piece of mosaic art. Fuster is dedicated to his creations, a vast array of artwork from ceramics evoking the nation s African roots, as represented in the Santeria religion, to whimsical paintings drawn from ordinary life in Cuba. End the afternoon at the studio of Havana Compass where we have arranged a private performance of this dance/musical group. Liliet Rivera, is the founder of Cuba Havana Dance Troupe, which is dedicated to the study and choreography of traditional and modern dances. In partnership with percussion artist, Eduardo Cordova, the troupe has created an exciting, diverse performance with traces of Spanish dance form, African-Cuban Jazz rhythm and modern dance. This evening dinner is at La Guarida. This wellknown restaurant served as the setting for the main apartment in the film Fresa y Chocolate. Please note that there is no elevator in this building and the restaurant is located on the 3rd floor of the building. SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 4 RETURN TO THE U.S. Depart Havana for your return flight home. (B)