Clothing and Gear List

Transcription

1 Clothing and Gear List Rocky Mountain Mindfulness in the Mountains Most of the things I had brought for my journey turned out to be impediments (Basho) CLOTHING AND PERSONAL GEAR ARE ALL YOU ARE REQUIRED TO BRING. The clothing list below has been developed from years of experience on the trail and with current feedback from participants. It has been designed for your safety and comfort. Having the proper clothing is important. Our clothing and gear needs to keep us warm and dry during potential rain and winds, yet we need to fit it all into our packs and not feel too weighed down to enjoy hiking. Leaving behind all but the bare essentials becomes a part of our journey as well as a focus of how we can live our lives mindfully. In both cases the result is feeling light, mobile, and unencumbered. Please bring everything listed on the clothing list. Due to unpredictable weather, you may not end up wearing everything on this list. If it gets cold and wet, you will be glad that you have the listed items. If you are wondering where to purchase these items, check your local Yellow Pages (under camping, sporting goods, outdoor equipment), or consider purchasing good quality items from used outdoor clothing or consignment retailers in your area. One caution - older Goretex and water-resistant pant fabrics can lose their water resistance, so they may not be a true savings. ITEMS TO BRING Prescription Medicine Please bring two full sets of any prescription medication you are currently taking. Prescription medication must arrive in the original containers and include the dosage and scheduling information. Please inform your instructors when you arrive of your prescription medication, and give your instructors the second set. If one set is lost, your instructors will have the second set. Make sure you record your prescription medication and dosage information on your Medical Form. Contact Lenses and Glasses Contact lenses that require no special care may be worn on the course. If you wear contact lenses, bring an extra pair, or a pair of glasses. If you wear glasses, bring an extra pair in a hard case. Camera - You ll be travelling through some spectacular scenery, so bring a camera along, in a protective case. It is awkward, tiring and time consuming to constantly stop and remove a backpack to get your camera. If you can buy a little camera pouch that attaches to your pack waist belt then it makes picture taking much simpler. Money - You may want to bring some money (cash or credit card) to cover the following possible expenses: pre-and postcourse meals or accommodation, last minute equipment needs, or emergency funds to cover any unanticipated travel costs. VALUABLES and STORAGE Upon arrival you will pack your backpack with the group. Anything you don t need on trail (clothes for your return home, money, duffel bag, airline tickets, etc.) will be safely stored for you until your course ends. Please note that electronic devices such as cell phones, laptops, ipods, MP3 players, hand-held games or pagers are not allowed on course. We strongly recommend that you do not bring large amounts of cash, expensive jewellery / watches, or electronic devices. Outward Bound Canada is not responsible for any loss or damage to personal property that may be incurred while you are with us. of 5

2 OUTWARD BOUND CANADA PROVIDES THE FOLLOWING EQUIPMENT/GEAR Ground sheet Tent Food/snacks Camp stoves/fuel Equipment repair kit First Aid equipment Maps THE CLOTHING & GEAR LIST GEAR ** Please let us know if you cannot provide these gear items Backpack 70 to 80L Sleeping Pad closed cell foam or light Thermarest Sleeping bag a 3-season synthetic or hybrid mummy bag that packs to 0 litres or less. Eg: MEC hybrid Compression stuff sack for your sleeping bag Footwear Backpacking Boots Running Shoes Sturdy sports sandal Base Layer Liner Socks Heavy Socks Underwear Long Underwear Set Sports Bra Insulating Layer pair pair pair 3 pair 3 pair 4 pair See Footwear Section at the end of this document To be worn around camp Appropriate for around camp only. Good for airing out feet. No flip-flop style sandals. Not a substitute for running shoes Thin, polypropylene, nylon or wool sock, worn next to your skin. When worn under a heavy wool sock, it provides cushioning and protection Designed for hiking Thick wool or synthetic (or blend). No Cotton Polypropylene, wool or silk Synthetic or wool only. Lightweight. No Cotton. Sport bra style recommended for comfort and support. May double as a tank top for swimming Mitts/gloves Toque T-shirts Long-sleeve shirt Jacket/Pullover/Sweater Warm Pants pair Fleece windstopper. Bring a nd pair if they are not quick drying Lightweight wool or fleece hat. Very Important. 50/50 polyester/cotton blend is best. Cotton is OK. Consider long sleeved for sun protection. tank top is OK Lightweight fleece or wool. No Cotton 00 or 300 weight fleece (medium-heavy weight) or wool. Mid-weight fleece. Side zippers helpful for venting when active Shell Layer Shorts Wind/hiking pants Rain Pants Rain/wind jacket with hood pair pair pair Additional Clothing Required Bandana Hat - Nylon, quick-dry Lightweight, quick drying, synthetic or nylon pant may zip tp shorts Waterproof, breathable, unlined. Leg-zips are handy for venting and for taking off over boots. Waterproof, breathable, unlined. Shell type, e.g. Goretex Cotton is OK With sun visor (e.g. baseball cap) of 5

3 Personal Items Necessary Mug, bowl, spoon Water bottle Toiletry Kit Sunglasses, Retainer strap, Hard case Sunscreen and lip balm Blister protection Insect repellent Foot powder Feminine supplies Headlamp Lighter Re-sealable plastic bags Pen/pencil Watch Hiking Pole each each each 3 Optional Items - Recommended Hand cream/lotion Small Towel Swiss army type knife Stuff sack Insulated plastic mug. Plastic bowl (eg: 4 cup measure with handle or 500 ml plastic bottle with wide mouth) and spoon At least litre Toothbrush, small tube of toothpaste, hairbrush or comb Less than % U.V. penetration, and less than 5% visual light penetration. Very Important. Glacier style with glass lenses are good. Eye-glass wearers must have clip-ons or prescription sunglasses. Small tubes of both are highly recommended. SPF 30+.Waterproof preferred If susceptible to blisters (eg: Moleskin, Second Skin, Compeed ) Small, non-aerosol. Test first for skin allergy With anti-fungal agent. Very important Women should bring an ample supply of tampons, pads or liners Moist wipes and re-sealable plastic bags are recommended Or small flashlight with headband (for hands-free) and extra set of batteries For lighting cook stoves Large. Handy for separating wet items from dry A small journal is provided Small plastic tube, unscented Compact sports towel, chamois, ideal for use on trail For cooking etc For clothing etc Course End Items Change of Clothes Shampoo/Soap/Towel Clean change of clothes for the trip home For clean-up at course end YOUR CLOTHING LAYERING SYSTEM Base Layer Keeps you dry and warm. Ideally wicks away and does not trap perspiration next to your skin. Insulating Layer (or layers) Provides insulation. They need to retain your body heat and yet not restrict movement. Shell Layer Offers protection from precipitation (rain and snow), and wind. FABRICS Synthetic, wool or silk fabrics are best for most base layer and insulating layer clothing. Synthetics Polyester, polar fleece, nylon, and polypropylene are examples of synthetic fabrics and are ideal for long underwear and insulative layers. Brand names include Capilene, Thermax, Polartec, Malden Mills, WhisprDry, Lycra, Tactel, Thermal Pro, and Power Dry, among others. They are soft, comfortable and durable, yet they do not absorb water. Perspiration is wicked away from your skin to keep you warm and dry and these fabrics retain much of their warmth when wet. Synthetics are good for long underwear, long-sleeve tops, warm sweaters and jackets, mitts/gloves, warm pants, socks, and toques. Wool Wool blends containing at least 75% wool with no cotton. Brand name wool products include Smartwool, Acti- Wool, and merino wool. Kroy wool is soft lamb s wool that doesn t irritate sensitive skin. Wool is good for sweaters, pants, socks and hats. Waterproof-breathables Laminated fabrics with pores small enough to block rain/snow, yet large enough to allow perspiration to escape. Common brand names you will find are Gore-tex and Entrant. These are ideal for rain/wind jacket, overmitts, and even rain-pants. Note: A good waterproof-breathable jacket and/or pants can double as a wind layer. Coated nylon rain jacket and pants are less expensive than waterproof-breathables but then you will have to bring along a lightweight wind layer. 3 of 5

4 Coated nylon Rain slicker type fabric that is relatively inexpensive, very durable, and waterproof but does not breath and is bulky and heavy. Seams should be factory sealed. Ok for rain-pants and poor for rain/wind jacket. Quick-dry nylon Shorts and wind/hiking pants should be made from a quick-drying nylon or nylon-polyester blend fabric that offers protection from wind, bugs, underbrush, and light rain. WHY NO COTTON/DOWN Cotton and down are useless as insulators when wet. Cotton is heavy compared to synthetics, especially when wet, and does not pack as well. Denim (especially blue jeans) is not appropriate. Do not bring them on your course (other than for wearing home). Cotton sweatpants are not a substitute for synthetic or wool pants. A cotton T-shirt is OK but not ideal. Down is warm and light in a sleeping bag, but becomes useless and difficult to dry in prolonged wet weather. Synthetic or hybrid bags will still be warm when wet. Footwear Your backpacking boots are the most important items you will bring to your course. Foot problems caused by inappropriate, ill-fitting or inadequately waterproofed boots will have a very serious effect on your enjoyment of the course. Some participants have had their Outward Bound experience unnecessarily spoiled by the agony of blisters or the lack of proper footwear. In some cases, participants have been unable to complete the course. Please choose your boots carefully and ensure they are broken-in and waterproofed before the course begins. Those who arrive with inadequate boots will not be able to participate. BOOT CRITERIA Most suitable for all courses is a general-purpose, medium-weight backpacking boot. A good-quality backpacking boot, correctly fitted, will be adequate for both mountain expeditions and rock climbing. You do not need to buy heavy, fully rigid mountaineering boots, as these can be stiff and heavy to walk in. Uppers Waterproof leather uppers. When carrying a heavy load, the upper is what will protect you from ankle injury on uneven terrain and loose rock/scree. The upper provides ankle support and also keeps out water and helps insulate the boot in cold weather or on snow. Full-grain leather is best for durability, support, water resistance, and breathability, yet it can be much heavier than synthetics. As you break in your boots, the full-grain leather upper will conform to the shape of your foot. Examples of full-grain leather: Smooth-out - the smooth side of the full-grain leather faces out. Rough-out - the rough side of the full-grain leather faces out. Nubuck looks like suede but is actually full-grain leather with a brushed finish. Do not buy boots with the following uppers: Suede is a form of split leather and is much less durable than full-grain leather. It is difficult to waterproof and does not hold its shape. Do not buy boots with suede uppers. Synthetic Nubuck is constructed with synthetic fibres bonded together with a suede-like texture. This upper tends to be less durable, less breathable, and less waterproof than leather. Fabric is not as durable as leather, and is difficult to waterproof unless it is used in conjunction with a waterproof breathable membrane like Gore-Tex. It is best to avoid boots with fabric uppers, as they are not stiff or supportive enough for a backpacking course. Plastic mountaineering boots are fully rigid and inappropriate for summer backpacking courses. Shank - is a solid platform built into the sole of the boot that stiffens the boot and makes it much less tiring to walk over rough terrain. What you want: Semi-flexible soles. Usually a full-length nylon shank. You should be able to bend the toe of the boot up a bit under a reasonable amount of pressure but not more than 45º. Occasionally boots might be constructed with a / or 3/4 steel shank but this is increasingly rare as plastics are much more common. What you don t want but will see: Fully-rigid soles. Might be a heavy-duty full nylon/plastic shank or a full-length steel shank. These soles do not bend and are tiring to walk in. Stitching - Minimal stitching, as stitching will leak. Also, try to avoid boots with a seam up the inside of the heel as this may cause pressure points and blisters. Outsoles Where the bottom of the boot meets the trail. An aggressive Vibram style rubber lug out sole is best (Skywalker and Raichle make similar outsoles). 4 of 5

5 A word about Gore-Tex Boots that have a Gore-Tex liner may be more waterproof than those without but not so much so that we recommend them above regular full-grain leather backpacking boots. Boots that have Gore-Tex fabric on the outside of the boot (a split leather/fabric boot) are not acceptable. Gore-Tex liners are not a substitute for waterproofing your boots. BOOT OPTIONS Buying medium-weight full grain leather backpacking boots: If you do not already own a good pair of boots, this is an excellent chance to get some. If looked after, they will last you for years. These boots will cost between $00~$300 depending upon the model and the store you purchase them from. You might look for a used pair on-line, on a board at a local outdoor shop, or at a used sporting-goods store. Rental: Renting boots is an option if you see your course as a once-in-a-lifetime event, or if you do not wish to purchase boots now. Outward Bound does not rent leather boots to students. There are sports rental and outdoor shops, or local colleges/universities that may rent boots. Take the same care in fitting rental boots as you would a purchase: a well fitting boot is more important than a broken-in one. Make sure that they are quality boots and that you waterproof them thoroughly before your course. BOOT SHOPPING With the advent of new materials and lightweight boots, boot shopping can be confusing, even for the most experienced hiker. Take this information with you when you go shopping, and take extra care in your purchase. If possible, find a store that sells mainly mountaineering equipment it will probably carry the better brands and the salespeople should have a good understanding of the fitting process. Remember... Don t purchase fabric, suede or split leather boots. While very popular for day hikes, these lightweight boots will not provide you with the support or safety necessary for travel across rugged terrain with a heavy pack. Boots must be full-grain leather (smooth-out, rough-out or nubuck are all full-grain leather). Don t purchase military boots, hunting-type boots, boots that extend mid-calf or lightweight boots with suede or fabric uppers. Fitting your boots A proper fit is essential, and you are unlikely to be able to judge the fit in 0-5 minutes in a shop. Buy your boots with the understanding that if you wear them indoors for several hours and they don t feel right, you will be able to return them. Most boots are sized to fit both men and women but are built on a man s last (foot shape). Women s feet generally have a higher arch and instep, lower anklebones and a narrower heel and forefoot. Some boots are built to accommodate these differences. Please ask in the store where you are shopping if the boot is built to accommodate women s feet. The following guidelines will help you find the best-fit possible: Wear one thin (liner) and thick pair of socks to ensure proper fit. Try experimenting with the thickness of the wool or synthetic sock to determine which will work best for you. With the boots unlaced and your toes touching the front of the boot, the boot should be large enough to place your forefinger between your heel and the heel of the boot. With the boot laced, your heel must be firmly lodged in the heel cup, with no more than 3mm (/8 ) of lift when you walk. Your toes and the ball of your foot should not feel cramped. When on a steep decline, or when tapping the toe of the laced up boot against the floor, your toe should not hit the end of the boot. BREAKING IN YOUR BOOTS Break in your boots before the course. We can never say this enough. Wear them around town, to school and at home as much as possible (several weeks for a total distance of at least 50 km). This simple activity cannot be overemphasized and will be one of the easiest and most important steps in preparing for a successful and comfortable wilderness experience. WATERPROOFING Since no leather is naturally waterproof, treat your boots, new or used, with SnoSeal, Aquaseal, or Biwell. Waterproofing your boots prior to your course is essential. For best results, 5-6 coats on new boots are necessary. Waterproofing is most easily applied if you warm the leather first by using a hair dryer, or by placing the boots in a warm oven for only a moment or two (be very careful!), set on lowest heat. 5 of 5