4 easy-to-use. How to Use This Book. sections. 4 Sleeping 5 Eating 6 Drinking 3 Entertainment 7 Shopping 8 Information

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1 254 bedroom in a family home. A several parks, pick up a fourweek national-park holiday full cooked breakfast is not the norm. Tariffs for couples pass ($40). Some nationalpark camp sites can be Accommodation in Western are typically in the $150 to Australia ranges from camping grounds to high-end higher for exclusive proper- wa.gov.au/campgrounds. $250 range but can be much booked online. See hotels. Perth s accommodation is generally more expen- try parks, prices for two people ties. For online information, At WA s ubiquitous holiday sive, although Margaret River, breakfast.com.au, range from $25 (unpowered Broome, the Coral Coast com.au or tent sites) to $40 (powered and Pilbara mining towns breakfast.com. caravan sites). Many caravan come very close. For simplicity, reviews in this book use powered sites because they parks are phasing out un- the same price categories are less profitable. Most holiday parks offer accommoda- throughout the state. For many travellers, touring Over summer (December with a tent or campervan is tion, from simple chalets to to February) and around the consummate WA experience. In the outback and up Pick up the free Caravan- flasher motel units. school and public holidays, prices are at their highest. north you often won t even ning, Camping and Motorhoming in WA at visitor Outside these times discounts and lower walk-in need a tent. Check with visitor centres before heading centres or see rates can be found. One out to confirm locations of vanwa.com.au. exception is the far north, free roadside stops. Many where the wet season (November to March) is the low stops have been phased out immediately north of Perth Commonly found in the season and prices can drop but are more frequent further away from the city. towns, the donga is basically outback, especially in mining by as much as 50%. Accommodation in the Pilbara can be hard to find, due Designated camp sites in a prefab tin room (usually national parks cost $7/2 per air-conditioned) with a single to the fly-in, fly-out (FIFO) adult/child with no or basic bed, TV and small fridge. mining phenomenon. Camping is often the best option. facilities. Sites with showers (including unpowered caravan sites) cost $9/2. You ll Bed and breakfast (B&B) also need to pay entrance The Gascoyne and Pilbara options range from rooms fees for many national parks, areas are popular spots for in heritage buildings to a but only when you enter station stays, and at some the park. If you re exploring you may be asked to pitch in. Accommodation is either in the main homestead (B&B style, with dinner on request) or in adjacent self-contained For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet cottages. Other farms provide budget options in out- authors, check out You ll nd independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can quarters. Search for Farmbuildings or former shearers book online. stay online at com.au. Accommodation B&Bs 232 Many of the first ships to bring convicts to WA were whalers. Human cargo would be unloaded and then the ships continued whaling. BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE populated, being home to less than 10% of the population. this could have occurred as long as 65,000 years ago. declared all surrounding land property of King George IV. and development by First Arrivals Camping & Caravan s # 24 40,000 years ago Dongas Why Go? Sights Planted by a river and beneath an almost permanent canopy of blue sky, the city of Perth is a modern-day boom town, Activities stoking Australia s economy from its glitzy central business Tours district. Yet it remains as relaxed as the sleepy Swan River Festivals & Events black swans bobbing atop which winds past the skyscrapers and out to the Indian Ocean. Sleeping Eating Even in its boardrooms, Perth s heart is down at the beach, tossing around in clear ocean surf and stretching out on the Drinking & Nightlife...69 sand. The city s beaches trace the western edge of Australia Entertainment for some 40km, and you can have one to yourself on any Shopping given day for a city this size, Perth is sparsely populated. Getting There & Away.76 Perth has sprawled to enfold Fremantle within its suburbs, Getting Around yet the port city maintains its own distinct personality proud of its nautical ties, working-class roots, bohemian Fremantle reputation and, especially, its football team. Best Places to Eat Duende (p 68 ) Namh Thai (p 67 ) Print Hall (p 65 ) Il Lido (p 69 ) Cantina 663 (p 67 ) Best Places to Stay Eight Nicholson (p 60 ) Wickham Retreat (p 60 ) Durack House (p 60 ) Above Bored (p 60 ) Norfolk Hotel (p 84 ) Swan Valley Mundaring Rottnest York Island Fremantle Perth Dunsborough Leeuwin 3 Bunbury Busselton Margaret River Hopetoun Esperance Le Grand Stirling Range Augusta Pemberton Mt Barker Porongurup Denmark Walpole Albany Valley of the GiantsTree Top Walk WEEKS Borunup Dr When to Go Perth 40/104 30/86 20/68 C/ F Temp 10/50 0/32 Up to 6000 years ago Farmstays & Station Stays J F M A M J J A S O N D Feb Perth s Arts Festival is on and school starts, so the beaches are less crowded. Mar Warm and dry, so great weather for the beach, and not as swelteringly hot First humans arrive on communities from northwestern Hartog lands on an Dutch explorer Dirk the shores of Australia. Australia trade and island in Shark Bay, interact with Macassan shermen from pewter plate on which marking his visit with a Sulawesi. he inscribed a record of his visit. Hyden & Wave Rock River (p 132 ) for more winery, brewery and beach time. Australia s southwest is a magical part of the continent and this itinerary covers its main highlights. Bump it up by another week to really relax into it. Start by following the previous itinerary as far as Leeuwin (p 136 ), but spend a second night in Margaret Continue to Pemberton (p 139 ), amid three forested national parks, for more wineries and the Karri Forest Explorer scenic drive. The next day, continue through Walpole (p 145 ) to the extraordinary Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk (p 145 ), then press on to Denmark (p 1460). Check out the beaches, wineries and breweries before making the short hop to Albany (p 149 ) the next day. Spend two days here swimming (in summer), whale watching (in winter) and exploring the nearby coastal national parks. Head north for more wineries at Mt Barker (p 156 ) before scuttling east to spend the night at Porongurup (p 156 ). Spend the next day (or two) tackling the mountainous tracks here or at Stirling Range (p 157 ) further north. From here the driving distances get longer. Continue through Ongerup and Jerramungup to the South Coast Hwy and at Ravensthorpe hop down to Hopetoun (p 1600) to spend the night. This will take about three hours from the Stirling Range, so you can spend the afternoon at the beach. The following day, head back to the South Coast Hwy and continue east to Esperance (p 161 ), a drive of around 2½ hours. Stay there for at least two days, spending one exploring gorgeous Le Grand (p 164 ). Head back on the South Coast Hwy and turn north just past Ravensthorpe for the road to Hyden (p 102 ) and extraordinary Wave Rock (p 102 ); allow four hours driving. The following day, head west on Hwy 40 to Brookton and then turn north on the Great Southern Hwy and follow the Avon Valley to quaintly colonial York (p 107 ); allow 3½ hours. For your last day, take a leisurely drive back to Perth via Mundaring (p 103 ), stop- To make this itinerary shorter, head straight to Hyden from the Stirling Range, or take ping at the Swan Valley (p 104 ) wineries en route. the Albany Hwy directly to Perth from Mt Barker. Sep Kings wildflowers, the Perth Royal Show and the life festival. Hostels Prices for dorm beds range from $23 to $35, private rooms from $65 to $90. Staff The following price ranges refer to the cheapest double can often help in securing room per night. seasonal work. Some hostels, especially in Perth, are popular as $$ $150 to $250 $ less than $150 short-term accommodation for FIFO workers, changing $$$ more than $250 the traditional travellers vibe. A Youth Hostel Association (YHA; of holiday homes, see www. goods of animal or plant for shorter stays. For listings On arrival, declare all or Hostelling International stayz.com.au. origin, as it s vital to protect For self-contained accommodation, many of the ment and agricultural indus- Australia s unique environ- membership (in Australia $42) gives a 10% discount at places reviewed in this book tries. If you fail to declare participating hostels. Sign up will suit; with full kitchens, quarantine items, you risk at the first YHA you stay in. they re a good option to an on-the-spot fine of over VIP Backpackers (www. save money by not eating $200 or even prosecution out. Check out the listings and imprisonment. For more offers discounts in participating WA hostels. A 12-month and apartment. Australian Quarantine and flagged as cottage, chalet, information contact the membership ($47) offers discounts on accommodation tive is a serviced apartment. In cities a good alterna- Inspection Service (AQIS; and some transport, tours Number Six has apartments Duty-free allowances: and activities. Join online, or around Perth, Fremantle and at VIP hostels. Margaret River, and others are also listed in this book. See boxed text on p 59 for tips to Full-service hotels are rare offset high accommodation value; or items for personal outside of Perth, and coastal prices, especially in Perth. use that you will be taking properties tend to be resortstyle, with standalone cottag- with you when you leave. es or apartments. Rates vary widely, but there are benefits in booking early, directly with the properties, or at the last For comprehensive information on customs regulations, card for accommodation, The most common discount minute, on accommodationbooking websites. contact the Australian Customs Service (% tions is the International transport and some attrac- In rural areas, book ahead, as motels are used by government workers and tour Student Identity Card groups. You can sometimes rent a single room at a country pub The goods and services tax (GST) is a at 10% tax on for not much more than a all goods and services with the exception of basic food hostel dorm. If you re a light items (milk, bread, fruits and vegetables etc). By law sleeper, never book a room the tax must be included in the quoted or shelf price, so above the bar. Some pubs all prices in this book are GST inclusive. also have separate motelstyle accommodation. If you purchase goods with a minimum value of $300 from any one supplier (on the same invoice) no more than 30 days before you leave Australia, you are entitled under the Tourist Refund Scheme (TRS) to a refund of The ubiquitous holiday flat any GST paid. The scheme only applies to goods you resembles a motel unit but take with you as hand luggage or wear onto the plane or has cooking and often laundry facilities. They re often minutes before departure. At Perth airport, the refund ship. You can collect your refund at the airport up to 30 rented on a weekly basis, counter is just after passport control. For more information, contact the Australian Customs and nightly prices are higher Service. (HI; annual vipbackpackers.com) also Hotels & Motels Pubs Rainfall inches/mm 10/250 8/200 6/150 4/100 2/50 0 FEARGUS COONEY/GETTY IMAGES Rental Accommodation law was laid down. each speaking a distinctive dialect. the subject of fierce debate. carbon the residue of their ancient fires deep in the soil. Piles of shells and fish bones mark the places where these people hunted and ate. And on rock walls across WA they left paintings and etchings, some thousands of years old, which tell their stories of the Dreaming, that spiritual dimension where the earth and its people were created, and the Contrary to popular belief, these people, especially those living in the north, were not entirely isolated from the rest of the world. Until 6000 years ago, they were able to travel and trade across a bridge of land that connected Australia to New Guinea. Even after white occupation, people of the northern coasts regularly hosted Macassan fishermen from Sulawesi, with whom they traded and socialised. When European sailors first stumbled on the coast of Terra Australis, the entire continent was occupied by hundreds of groups, living in their own territories and maintaining their own distinctive languages and traditions. The fertile Swan Valley around Perth, for example, is the customary homeland of about a dozen groups of Noongar people, The prehistory of Australia is filled with tantalising mysteries. In the Kimberley, scholars and amateur sleuths are fascinated by the so-called Bradshaw paintings. These enigmatic and mystical stick figures are thousands of years old. Because they look nothing like the artwork of any other group, the identity of the culture that created them is Meanwhile there are historians who claim the people s first contact with the wider world occurred when a Chinese admiral, Zheng He, visited Australia in the 15th century. Others say that Portuguese navi- These are intriguing theories. But most authorities believe that the first man to travel any great distance to see Australia was a Dutchman named Willem Janszoon. In 1606, he sailed the speedy little ship Duyfken out of the Dutch settlement at Batavia (modern Jakarta) to scout for the Dutch East India Company, and found York (the pointy bit at the top of Australia), which he thought was an extension Ten years later, another Dutch ship, the Eendracht, rode the mighty trade winds across the Atlantic, bound for the spice islands of modern Indonesia. But the captain, Dirk Hartog, misjudged his position, and stumbled onto the island (near Gladstone) that now bears his name. Hartog inscribed the details of his visit onto a pewter plate and nailed it to a gators mapped the continent in the 16th century. of New Guinea Debauchery, rape and murder break out while the Batavia is shipwrecked at the Houtman Abrolhos Islands. All crew but two are subsequently executed at senior merchant Francisco Pelsaert s behest. PERTH POP 1.75 MILLION In December 1696 three ships in the Dutch fleet commanded by Willem de Laid-back, liveable Perth has wonderful Vlamingh anchored off Rottnest Island. On weather, beautiful beaches and an easygoing 5 January 1697 a well-armed party landed character. About as close to Bali as to some near present-day Cottesloe Beach and then of Australia s eastern state capitals, Perth s marched eastward to a river near Freshwater Bay. They tried to make contact with the combination of big-city attractions with relaxed and informal surrounds offers an local people to enquire about survivors of appealing lifestyle for locals and lots to do the Ridderschap van Hollant, lost in 1694, for visitors. It s a sophisticated, cosmopolitan city with myriad bars, restaurants and but were unsuccessful, so they sailed north. It was de Vlamingh who bestowed the name cultural activities all vying for attention. Swan on the river. When you want to chill out, it s easy to do Modern Perth was founded in 1829 when so. Perth s pristine parkland, nearby bush, a hopeful Captain James Stirling established and river and ocean beaches along with the Swan River Colony, and named the main a good public transport system allow its settlement after the Scottish hometown of inhabitants to spread out and enjoy what s the British Secretary of State for the Colonies. The original settlers paid for their own on offer. Relaxed doesn t mean static, though. The passage and that of their servants, and in mining boom of Western Australia (WA) continues to see Perth blossom like the state s return they received 200 acres for every labourer they brought with them. wildflowers in spring. Those on the gravy At the time Mooro belonged to a Wadjuk leader called Yellagonga and his peo- train are out eating, socialising, spending money and flexing their muscles in the sun. ple, whose main camp was at Boorloo, near The city of Perth lies along a wide sweep where the colony was founded. Relations of the Swan River. The river borders the city were friendly at first, the Noongar believing centre to the south and east, and links Perth the British to be the returned spirits of their to its neighbouring port city, Fremantle. Follow the river north from the city and you ll dead, but competition for resources led to conflict. Yellagonga moved his camp first to reach prosperous nooks such as Claisebrook Lake Monger and, by the time of his death in Cove, lined with ostentatious houses, cafes 1843, his people had been dispossessed of all and public sculpture. of their lands around Perth s city centre and Train tracks divide the city centre from were forced to camp around the swamps the Northbridge entertainment enclave, immediately to the north. Here s where you ll and lakes to the city s north. Midgegooroo, an elder from south of the find Perth s cultural institutions, most of its Swan River, along with his son Yagan, led hostels and the lively Little Asia restaurant resistance to the British settlement. In 1833 strip. Midgegooroo was caught and executed by Continue northeast along Beaufort St firing squad, while Yagan was shot a few and you ll reach the sophisticated suburbs months later by teenage settlers whom he of Highgate and Mt Lawley. Heading west had befriended. Yagan s head was removed, there s Mt Hawthorn and hip Leederville. To smoked and sent to London where it was the west of the central city rises Kings, publicly displayed as an anthropological with well-heeled Subiaco beyond it. Go further west and you ll hit the beaches. curiosity. Life for the settlers was much harder than they had expected it to be. The early settlement grew very slowly until 1850, when convicts alleviated the labour shortage and The discovery of stone implements near the boosted the population. Convict labour was Swan River suggests that Mooro, the site on also responsible for constructing the city s which the city of Perth now stands, has been substantial buildings such as Government occupied for around 40,000 years. The indigenous Wadjuk people, a subgroup of the House and the Town Hall. Even then, Perth s development lagged behind that of the cities Noongar, believed that the Swan River (Derbal Yaragan) and the landforms surround- in the eastern colonies. That is, until the discovery of gold inland in the 1890s increased ing it were shaped by two Wargal (giant Perth s population fourfold in a decade and serpentlike creatures), which lived under initiated a building bonanza. present-day Kings. History FRANCES ANDRIJICH/GETTY IMAGES SLEEPING PRICE RANGES Customs Regulations 6666; GST REFUNDS Above: Mitchells Falls (p 223 ) Right: Swan River, Perth Batavia wreck, Western Australian Museum (p168) ORIEN HARVEY/GETTY IMAGES Alcohol 2.25L Cigarettes 50 Other goods up to $900 Discount Cards 255 The founding of Perth is most famously depicted in George Pitt Morison s painting The Foundation of Perth (1829). It is often erroneously credited as an authentic record of the ceremony rather than a historical reconstruction Willem de Vlamingh replaces Hartog s plate with his own easy-to-use sections Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd How to Use This Book Plan Your Trip Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip. 1 on the road Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps and insider tips. 2 Perth & Fremantle Understand Get more from your trip Learn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see. 3 History Today Western Australia (WA), the largest state in the country, is also the most sparsely The story of Western Australia s history is one of hardship, boom, bust, and boom again. Human history started some 40,000 years ago, when the first people are thought to have arrived although some argue that Dirk Hartog is considered the first European explorer to land on the shores of WA (as a record of his journey he displayed a pewter plate on an island in Shark Bay in 1616, now known as Dirk Hartog Island). The British set up a military base in Albany, in the south of the state, in Perth was then founded in 1829, when Captain James Stirling In 1829 immigrants led by Stirling arrived in the territory of the Noongar people, sparking controversy between the two groups. Conflict with the indigenous population continued, notably in the Battle of Pinjarra (1834), when some 25 people and one European were killed. WA began its economic transformation with the discovery of gold in the 1880s and the inception of the nickel boom in the early 1960s, albeit thwarted by the two world wars and the Depression. Riches from the mines at Mt Newman, Tom Price and Kalgoorlie, among several others, dovetailed into the economic bubble of the 1980s, which burst when WA Inc (as the dealings among select businessmen and state politicians came to be known) was discovered to have lost $600 million in public money. Ever enterprising, it was not long, however, before the state was soon back on its feet, enjoying untrammelled economic mining growth People first arrived on the northern shores of Australia at least 40,000 years ago. As they began building shelters, cooking food and telling each other tales, they left behind signs of their activities. They left layers of Survival Guide Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information for a smooth trip. 4 PLAN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S The Southwest Uncut 08-itineraries-pwc7.indd /03/2013 1:00:06 PM Directory A Z Early Dutch Exploration FOUNDATIONS PERTH & FREMANTLE FREMANTLE P W E H R E T N H TO G O PLAN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S HISTORY E A R LY D U T C H E X P LO R AT I O N DIRECTORY A Z C U S TO M S R EG U L AT I O N S Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 Sights r Beaches 2 Activities C Courses T Tours z Festivals & Events All reviews are ordered in our authors preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them, and within this order, by author preference. Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and within these ranges, by author preference. These symbols give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number h Opening hours p ing n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access W Wi-fi access s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selection For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. ISBN th Edition Published July 2013 First Published Apr Sleeping 5 Eating 6 Drinking 3 Entertainment 7 Shopping 8 Information & Transport E English-language menu c Family-friendly # Pet-friendly g Bus f Ferry j Tram d Train USA $21.99 UK 15.99

2 e # Perth & West Coast Australia Broome & the Kimberley p204 Coral Coast & the Pilbara p183 Monkey Mia & the Central West p165 Perth & Fremantle p46 Around Perth p89 #^ Margaret River & the Southwest Coast p118 South Coast p143 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Brett Atkinson Steve Waters

3 On the Road Broome & the Kimberley p204 Coral Coast & the Pilbara p183 Monkey Mia & the Central West p165 Around Perth Perth & p89 Fremantle #^ p46 Margaret River & the Southwest Coast p118 South Coast p143

4 125 E 120 E Ord R Perth & West Coast Australia km #e miles INDIAN Millstream- Chichester The Pilbara Marble Bar Lake Argyle Purnululu 33 Karlamilyi Kiwirrkurra Jigalong Lake4 Karijini Mackay #] Ashmore Reef Bonaparte Archipelago OCEAN Collier Bay Yandeyarra Beagle Bay Leveque Kunmunya Bougainville Admiralty Gulf Wotjalum Great Sandy Prince Regent Nature c Kimberley Plateau Kurlkuta Kalumburu Oombulgurri Emma Gorge Joseph Bonaparte Gulf c Balgo Central Australia Kununurra iver Geikie Gorge Fitzroy River North West Exmouth Onslow Dampier Karratha Point Samson Roebourne Port Hedland Paraburdoo Newman Broome Derby Tunnel Creek Fitzroy Crossing Londonderry 115 E ELEVATION Crocodiles inhabit rivers, billabongs and estuaries in tropical areas. 15 S Wyndham Halls Creek 20 S 110 E 1250m 1000m 750m 500m 250m 0 ROAD DISTANCES (km) Note: Distances Margaret R Albany Esperance Exmouth Monkey Mia Broome are approximate Karijini Plunging waterfalls and remarkable gorges (p198) Ningaloo Marine Pristine coral reefs and turquoise lagoons (p193) Drysdale River Mirima Tropic of Ningaloo Marine Broome The north s premier beach-resort town (p205) 80 Mile Beach #Ù c Windjana Gorge El Questro Wilderness Wolf Creek Crater Canning Stock Route Tom Price Gibb River Road Gorges, waterholes, rock art and wildlife (p220) Perth Margaret R Albany Esperance Exmouth Monkey Mia Capricorn

5 Shark Bay Warakurna- Tjirrkarli Wing-Irr Monkey Mia Denham Warburton 33 Wiluna Hamelin Pool Marine Nature Meekatharra Toolonga Nature Yapuparra Kalbarri Great Cue Cosmo Newberry Victoria 3 Kalbarri Sandstone Leinster Yeo Lake Mt Magnet Nature 333 Neale Junction Nature Mullewa Point Salvation Laverton 3 Geraldton 333 #] Leonora- Gwalia Dongara-Port Denison Great Victoria Goongarrie Nature PumridgeLakes Pinnacles Nature Kalgoorlie Nambung #] INDIAN -Boulder Moora Southern Coolgardie Cundeelee Cross Nullarbor OCEAN Kambalda Plain Merredin Northam Eucla #] Cocklebiddy Madura York Perth #^ Wave Norseman #] Fremantle Hyden Rock Dundas Nature Mandurah Nuytsland Great Australian Nature Bight Narrogin Lake King Bunbury #] Fitzgerald River Naturaliste Collie Esperance Busselton Hopetoun Margaret River Cranbrook Arid Augusta Manjimup Stirling Range Le Grand Pemberton Walpole- Nornalup #] Gibson Gibson Nature Lake Buchanan Warburton SOUTHERN OCEAN l 115 E Ashburton River Gascoyne River Murchison River Inscription Carnarvon 25 S Shark Bay & Monkey Mia World Heritage listed bay with marine life (p176) Pinnacles Ghostly limestone pillars among the dunes (p114) François Peron Shark Bay Marine 30 S Perth Western Australia s sizzling, sophisticated capital (p46) Margaret River World-class wine and surf (p118) Leeuwin R Mount Augustus (1105m) 33 Collier C Range Mt Barker 120 E 125 E Albany Denmark 35 S 130 E

6 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Brett Atkinson Coordinating Author; Perth & Fremantle, Around Perth, Margaret River & the Southwest Coast, South Coast Brett s previous visits to Western Australia had involved museum- and bar-hopping in Fremantle, and taking on the mighty Nullarbor Plain. This time he expanded his WA horizons by immersing himself in Perth s restaurants and cafes, researching craft breweries in the Swan Valley, and jumping from beach to forest and back to beach throughout Margaret River and the southwest. As a New Zealander, he s used to weird and wonderful wildlife but still thinks WA s quirky combo of woylies, numbats and whale sharks is something special. Brett s based in Auckland, and has covered more than 45 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See for what he s been eating recently, and where he s travelling to next. Steve Waters Around Perth, Monkey Mia & the Central West, Coral Coast & the Pilbara, Broome & the Kimberley While researching the previous edition of this book, Steve descended into rental-car hell, so this trip he drove 15,000km in his own Subaru L-series, which took a hammering on the Tanami and almost drowned getting into Purnululu. Driving lights dropped off, shockers, tyres and drive shafts all broke. At least it only caught fire once. Slept in, eaten on, buried in Dampier Peninsula pindan, covered in Pilbara dust, pulled over by Cervantes cops, from Kununurra to Perth, the Subie kept going. Steve s also co-authored previous editions of Australia, Indonesia and Great Adventures; while not on the road, he frequents Lonely Planet s Melbourne office. Read more about Steve at: lonelyplanet.com/members/stevewaters CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS Rebecca Chau wrote the Boomtown: Mining & the Environment chapter. Rebecca first started learning about WA back in the 80s, when she started school in Albany, south of the state. After growing up on this land crinkled by beaches and coveted by whales, she moved to Perth, and later became a commissioning editor for Lonely Planet. Also an author on the previous editions of this guide, she heads back to WA a couple of times a year. She has long followed the mining boom with fascination. Dr Michael Cathcart wrote the History chapter. Michael teaches history at the Australian Centre, the University of Melbourne. He is well known as a broadcaster on ABC Radio and has presented history programs on ABC TV. His most recent book is The Water Dreamers (2009), a history of how water shaped the history of Australia. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN th edition July 2013 ISBN Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

7 23 It inera r ies Rottnest Island Perth Fremantle Bunbury Geographe Bay Dunsborough Busselton Margaret River Borunup Dr Leeuwin Augusta Balingup Nannup 1 WEEK A Southwest Short Circuit If you ve got limited time, this itinerary offers a taste of the best of the state city life, colonial history, beaches, wildlife, wine, forests and rural roads. Base yourself in either Perth (p 47 ) or Fremantle (p 77 ) and spend three days exploring the conjoined cities and one day on Rottnest Island (p 91 ). Hire a car and head south, stopping first at Bunbury (p 120 ) for lunch and a visit to the Dolphin Discovery Centre. Continue on to Geographe Bay (p 120 ), basing yourself in either Busselton (p 123 ) or Dunsborough (p 125 ), and use the rest of the day to explore the beaches. Pick up a wine-region map and spend day six checking out the wineries, surf beaches and caves, all of which are close by. Base yourself in the Margaret River (p 132 ) township that night and head to Settlers Tavern, the local pub. The next morning, head to Augusta via Caves Rd and take the scenic detour through the karri forest along unsealed Borunup Drive (p 134 ). Visit Leeuwin (p 136 ), where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, before heading back to Bunbury on a picturesque rural drive through Nannup (p 137 ) and Balingup (p 137 ). From here it s a two-hour drive back to Perth.

8 24 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Swan Valley Mundaring Rottnest York Island Fremantle Perth Bunbury Dunsborough Busselton Margaret River Leeuwin Augusta Borunup Dr Hyden & Wave Rock Stirling Range Pemberton Mt Barker Porongurup Denmark Walpole Albany Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk Hopetoun Esperance Le Grand 3 WEEKS The Southwest Uncut Australia s southwest is a magical part of the continent and this itinerary covers its main highlights. Bump it up by another week to really relax into it. Start by following the previous itinerary as far as Leeuwin (p 136 ), but spend a second night in Margaret River (p 132 ) for more winery, brewery and beach time. Continue to Pemberton (p 139 ), amid three forested national parks, for more wineries and the Karri Forest Explorer scenic drive. The next day, continue through Walpole (p 145 ) to the extraordinary Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk (p 145 ), then press on to Denmark (p 146 0). Check out the beaches, wineries and breweries before making the short hop to Albany (p 149 ) the next day. Spend two days here swimming (in summer), whale watching (in winter) and exploring the nearby coastal national parks. Head north for more wineries at Mt Barker (p 156 ) before scuttling east to spend the night at Porongurup (p 156 ). Spend the next day (or two) tackling the mountainous tracks here or at Stirling Range (p 157 ) further north. From here the driving distances get longer. Continue through Ongerup and Jerramungup to the South Coast Hwy and at Ravensthorpe hop down to Hopetoun (p 160 0) to spend the night. This will take about three hours from the Stirling Range, so you can spend the afternoon at the beach. The following day, head back to the South Coast Hwy and continue east to Esperance (p 161 ), a drive of around 2½ hours. Stay there for at least two days, spending one exploring gorgeous Le Grand (p 164 ). Head back on the South Coast Hwy and turn north just past Ravensthorpe for the road to Hyden (p 102 ) and extraordinary Wave Rock (p 102 ); allow four hours driving. The following day, head west on Hwy 40 to Brookton and then turn north on the Great Southern Hwy and follow the Avon Valley to quaintly colonial York (p 107 ); allow 3½ hours. For your last day, take a leisurely drive back to Perth via Mundaring (p 103 ), stopping at the Swan Valley (p 104 ) wineries en route. To make this itinerary shorter, head straight to Hyden from the Stirling Range, or take the Albany Hwy directly to Perth from Mt Barker.

9 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES FEARGUS COONEY/GETTY IMAGES Above: Mitchell Falls (p 223 ) Right: Swan River, Perth FRANCES ANDRIJICH/GETTY IMAGES

10 26 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Broome Dampier Peninsula Derby Lennard Mt River HartR Gorge Gibb River Rd Windjana Gorge Tunnel Creek Mitchell Plateau Mt Elizabeth Station Galvans Gorge Kalumburu Rd Mornington Wilderness Geikie Gorge Drysdale River Kalumburu Five Rivers Lookout Wyndham Kununurra Emma Gorge Home Valley Ord Station River El Questro Gibb River Rd Cambridge Gulf Purnululu Parry Lagoons Nature Bungle Bungle Range Great Northern Hwy 1 MONTH The Gibb River Road & Kimberley Outback The biggest adventure in the west leaves Broome (p 205 ) during the Dry and traverses the heart of the rugged Kimberley by 4WD. First stop is the Dampier Peninsula (p 216 ), with its communities, beautiful beaches and mud crabs, and your last saltwater swim. Take the back road to Derby (p 217 ), with its boabs, then on to the Gibb River Road (p 220 ), where Lennard River (p 221 ) is the first of many inviting gorges. Explore wildlife and gorges at Mt Hart (p 221 ) and remote Mornington Wilderness Camp (p 221 ) and look for Wandjina at Galvans Gorge (p 221 ) and Mt Elizabeth Station (p 222 ). Turn off onto the Kalumburu Road (p 221 ), check the road conditions at Drysdale River (p 223 ) and drive on to the Mitchell Plateau (p 223 ), with its forests of Livistona and mind-blowing falls. Marvel at the area s rock art before hitting the northern coast and excellent fishing at Honeymoon Bay (p 221 ), just beyond the mission community of Kalumburu (p 221 ). It s all downhill from here as you retrace your route back to the Gibb, then turn left for wonderful Home Valley Station (p 222 ), where someone else can do the cooking and the soft beds make a pleasant change from camping. Nearby El Questro (p 222 ) has gorges aplenty, none more beautiful than Emma Gorge (p 222 ). Soon you re back on asphalt, but not for long as you take in the amazing bird life of Parry Lagoons Nature (p 226 ). Let Wyndham s Five Rivers Lookout (p 225 ) blow your mind with its view of Cambridge Gulf, before heading for the civility of Kununurra (p 225 ), with its excellent food and supplies. Look for fruit-picking work, ride a canoe down the mighty Ord River, or jump back behind the wheel for the wonders of Purnululu (p 224 ), home to the orange-domed Bungle Bungle Range (p 224 ). Darwin and the Northern Territory are beckoning, or you can follow the Great Northern Hwy back to Broome, stopping in at beautiful Geikie Gorge (p 223 ) for a relaxing boat cruise where you might spot freshwater crocs. If you don t see any, don t worry, as nearby Windjana Gorge (p 222 ) has loads sunning on the river banks. Grab your torch and head for a cold wade through the icy waters of Tunnel Creek (p 223 ), with its bats and rock art, before planting the pedal back to Broome, where you won t care how much that beer costs any more.

11 27 Exmouth Ningaloo Marine Coral Bay Gnaraloo Carnarvon Shark Bay Monkey Mia Hamelin Pool Kalbarri Geraldton Greenough Green Head Pinnacles Perenjori Lesueur Broome 80 Mile Beach#Ù Great Sandy Point Samson Millstream- Port Hedland Chichester Karijini Exmouth The Tom Price Pilbara PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Perth 2 WEEKS Indian Ocean Dreaming 1 WEEK Pilbara Jewels Beautiful beaches, spectacular sunsets and diverse wildlife are constants on this coastal cruise. Take Indian Ocean Dr north from Perth (p 47 ) to Cervantes for sunset on the otherwordly Pinnacles (p 114 ). Cruise the wildflower-laden Kwongan back roads and marvel at Lesueur s (p 115 ) flora before snorkelling with sea lions at Green Head (p 117 ). Follow the flowers out to Perenjori (p 112 ), then hit the cafes and museums of Geraldton (p 168 ). Have a surf on a kiteboard, then move on to the wonderful Kalbarri (p 172 ) coastline. Enjoy a canoe in the gorges before sampling the outback on the long drive to World Heritage listed Shark Bay (p 176 ). Watch dolphins at Monkey Mia (p 179 ), go sailing with dugongs, and learn about country on an indigenous cultural tour. Check out the stromatolites of Hamelin Pool (p 176 ), before putting in more road time on the stretch to Carnarvon (p 180 ). Drop into Gnaraloo (p 182 ) for world-class waves before arriving at tiny Coral Bay (p 186 ) and Exmouth (p 188 ), where whale sharks, manta rays and turtles inhabit the exquisite Ningaloo Marine (p 193 ). You can fly out of Exmouth, drive back to Perth in two days, overnighting in historic Greenough (p 170 ), or push on to the gorges of Karijini (p 198 ). You ll camp most of the way on this link between Ningaloo and Broome, with long empty beaches, shady pools and surprisingly good food. From Exmouth (p 188 ), take Burkett Rd back to the highway, and head north, turning off at Nanutarra for the long, scenic haul up to Tom Price (p 198 ). After stocking up, spend the next few days camped in Karijini (p 198 ), exploring the sublime gorges and indulging in a spot of peak bagging among the state s highest mountains. Don t miss a swim at Hamersley Gorge en route to restful, shady Crossing Pool in Millstream-Chichester (p 198 ). Admire the mesas and breakaways of the Chichester Range before dropping down to the coast and some snorkelling at lovely Point Samson (p 197 ). Take the North West Coastal Hwy directly to Port Hedland (p 201 ), and scoff some wonderful coffee and cake in the Silver Star railcar, before camping at remote 80 Mile Beach (p 205 ), where you might spot nesting turtles. Your last leg is a long stretch of nothing as you skirt the Great Sandy to arrive in tropical Broome (p 205 ). You can bail out here or tool up for the Kimberley. Alternatively, skip the country on a direct Bali flight from Port Hedland.

12 MARBLE BAR DUNCAN ROAD Tumbleweeds blow across the road as you unwind yourself from your vehicle, shake off the dust and enter the cool, shady interior of the Iron Clad Hotel. That icy beer has never tasted better. (p203) The rarely visited Duncan Road provides a more laid-back, scenic and self-sufficient outback experience than the Gibb River Road. There are beautiful gorges, safe billabongs and zero facilities. You ll be sleeping in the million-star hotel. (p222) TANAMI ROAD & WOLFE CREEK This shortcut from Halls Creek to Alice Springs will save you loads of time but may pound your car to a pulp. For just a taste of remoteness, visit Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater. 28 PLAN YOUR TRIP OFF THE BEATEN TRACK R Karijini INDIAN OCEAN The Pilbara Little Sandy Dampier Peninsula Rudall River Derby Great Sandy Arafura Sea Timor Sea Beagle Gulf Oombulgurri The Kimberley Gibson Balgo Central Australia 44 Lake Mackay Gregory OrdRiver FitzroyRiver Halls Creek MacDonnell Ranges Off the Beaten Track Exmouth Dampier Karratha Port Hedland Broome MARBLE BAR WA CANNING STOCK ROUTE KALUMBURU DARWIN DUNCAN ROAD TANAMI ROAD & WOLFE CREEK Alice Springs NT Hamersley Range MT AUGUSTUS km #e miles Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater KALUMBURU Few travellers make it to this shady, palm-fringed mission at the end of a disintegrating track, but those who make the effort are rewarded by laidback camping, WWII wrecks, lonely beaches and legendary fishing. (p221) MT AUGUSTUS A long way from the bitumen (and most tourists), this goliath between the Pilbara and Gascoyne easily dwarfs more fancied Uluru. Five different access routes, hidden rock art and walking trails provide many options for exploration. (p197) Ashburton River

13 DRYANDRA WOODLAND Go marsupial marsupial crazy crazy and and get acquainted acquainted with with bilbies, bilbies, boodies boodies, and woylies woylies at and Dryandra s marla at Dryandra s excellent Barna excellent Mia Animal Barna Sanctuary. Mia Animal Perth is just a Sanctuary. couple of hours Perth away is just from a couple this of hours protected away stand from of this eucalypt protected forest. stand of (p102) eucalypt forest. (p000) 29 Bunbury Busselton Denmark Albany Lake Buchanan 44 SOUTHERN OCEAN Great Victoria Simpson Nullarbor Plain Great Australian Bight INDIAN OCEAN Cosmo Newberry Dundas Nature Nuytsland Nature Gibson Nature Neale Junction Nature Warakurna- Wing-Irr Great Victoria Nature Pitjantjatjaranku Maralinga Tjarutja Simpson CANNING STOCK ROUTE The most serious off-road undertaking in Australia stretches 2000km through desert and salt flats, linking together wells along this disused stock route. It s not for the faint-hearted; you should consider travelling in convoy. (p000) Nullabor Regional Yellabinna Regional Flinders Ranges Carnarvon Wiluna Eyre Peninsula Port Lincoln GascoyneRiver Murchison River STEEP POINT & DIRK HARTOG ISLAND STEEP POINT & DIRK HARTOG ISLAND Sunsets from the mainland s most westerly point just don t come any better, nor does the fishing. Nearby, Dirk Hartog Island is replete with history, begging to be explored. Just getting here is an adventure. (p000) (p178) Perth Fremantle Mandurah Northam DRYANDRA WOODLAND WA Kalgoorlie -Boulder Esperance SA Adelaide PLAN YOUR TRIP OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

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