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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET PAGE 2 PLAN YOUR TRIP YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip :HOFRPH WR * 6RORPRQ,VODQGV 7KH /LIH $TXDWLF 7HVW \RXU PHWWOH RQ D GD\ WUHN IROORZLQJ WKH 0LOQH %D\ VWHSV RI $XVWUDOLDQ GLJJHUV DORQJ WKH,G\OOLF,VODQGV LI \RX OLNH«Looking for other travel resources? 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History... Environment... The Kokoda Story... The People of PNG... ([SORULQJ WKH /DQGVFDSH 6,021 )2$/( /21(/< 3/$1(7,0$*(6 Welcome to PNG & Solomon Islands... Map Top Experiences... Need to Know... If You Like Month by Month... Itineraries... Diving in PNG & Solomon Islands... Kokoda Track... Regions at a Glance... Get the right guides for your trip Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council standards. FSC promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world s forests. AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 % , fax twitter.com/ lonelyplanet USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA % , toll free , fax facebook.com/ lonelyplanet UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ % , fax lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter 1/06/2012 9:37:21 AM

2 PAGE 38 ON THE ROAD YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips The Sepik p116 The Highlands p95 Morobe & Madang Provinces p75 Island Provinces p137 #_ Port Moresby p40 Central, Oro & Milne Bay Provinces p55 Solomon Islands p202 PAGE 183 SURVIVAL GUIDE PNG VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP Directory A Z Transport Language Index Map Legend THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Regis St Louis Jean-Bernard Carillet, Dean Starnes

3 Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author s top recommendation A green or sustainable option No payment required

4 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. Papua New Guinea On the Road PORT MORESBY AROUND PORT MORESBY Sogeri Road CENTRAL, ORO & MILNE BAY PROVINCES CENTRAL PROVINCE Hiritano Highway Kokoda ORO PROVINCE Popondetta Oro Bay Tufi MILNE BAY PROVINCE Alotau East Cape Wagawaga North Coast Samarai Island Near Samarai Island D Entrecasteaux Islands.. 68 Trobriand Islands MOROBE & MADANG PROVINCES MOROBE PROVINCE Lae Salamaua Wau & Around Black Cat Trail MADANG PROVINCE Madang Krangket Island Balek Wildlife Sanctuary.. 91 Ohu Jais Aben Area Alexishafen Malolo Ulingan Bay Karkar Island Bogia, Hansa Bay & Manam Island Simbai THE HIGHLANDS EASTERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE Goroka SIMBU PROVINCE Kundiawa Mt Wilhelm Walking to Madang WESTERN HIGHLANDS & JIWAKA PROVINCES Mt Hagen Wahgi Valley ENGA PROVINCE Wabag SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE Mendi Lake Kutubu & Around HELA PROVINCE Tari THE SEPIK EAST SEPIK PROVINCE Wewak Around Wewak SANDAUN PROVINCE Vanimo THE SEPIK & ITS TRIBUTARIES Upper Sepik Middle Sepik Lower Sepik Tributaries & Lakes ISLAND PROVINCES NEW BRITAIN East New Britain Province West New Britain Province NEW IRELAND PROVINCE Kavieng Lavongai (New Hanover) & East Islands East Coast NORTH SOLOMONS PROVINCE Buka Island Bougainville For the Solomon Islands see p 201

5 Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands 142ºE 144ºE 146ºE 150ºE 148ºE ELEVATION km 100 miles 3600m 2700m 2100m 2ºN 1500m 900m SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN 600m 300m 0 Equator Sepik River Big adventures on the jungle-clad Sepik (p116) Lavongai Idyllic island getaway (p156) ADMIRALTY IS Lorengau 2ºS Mt Wilhelm Views of both coasts from PNG's highest peak (p104) Vanimo Aitape Lavongai (New Hanover) I Ar c h i p e l ag o BISMARCK SEA Muschu I Wewak r Sepik Rive Pagwi Ambunti INDONESIA Cen t ra l Ran Bogia Karkar I ge Talasea Madang Wabag Tari Vi Mt Wilhelm (4509m) ti az Goroka Mt Hagen Kundiawa Mendi Lake Murray Mt Bosavi (2507m) ve r Lae Kerema Gulf of Papua B i s ma r c k SOLOMON SEA Morobe Mt Albert Edward (3990m) St an Bereina le Goroka Home to the brilliantly colourful Goroka Show (p98) y an Sogeri ge t Loloata I 10ºS Kupiano AUSTRALIA CORAL 144ºE SEA 146ºE Goodenough I Ward Hu nt St i ra PORT MORESBY TROBRIAND IS Popondetta Tufi Kokoda R Torres Strait Kimbe Huon Gulf Salamaua Wau Kokoda Track Famous and tortuous 96km trek (p29) New Britain ai t Huon Peninsula Crater Mtn (3118m) en Ri St r Ow Fly Madang Lovely laid-back town with great diving (p86) Manam I Angoram Timbunke Kavieng B i sma r c k Alotau Gateway to enchanting Milne Bay (p62) 148ºE Alotau Samarai I 150ºE

6 Top Experiences 160ºE Auki Langa Langa Lagoon HONIARA 10ºS Guadalcanal Malaita I 162ºE 164ºE Mataniko & Tenaru Falls Magnificent scenery just outside Honiara (p213) Makira I S O L O M O N I S L A N D S 166ºE 168ºE S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N 12ºS Lake Te'Nggano Same scale as main map S O L O M O N S E A To Anuta & Fatutaka Islands (100km) 2ºS New Ireland Rabaul Kokopo S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N Rabaul Volcanoes, wreck dives and apocalyptic landscapes (p146) 4ºS p e l a g o Buka Buka I Bougainville h i A r c Trobriand Islands Fascinating traditional cultures (p70) S O L O M O N I S L A N D S 6ºS Kiriwina I P A P U A N E W G U I N E A Gizo New Georgia I See Inset 8ºS Fergusson I D'ENTRECASTEAUX IS Normanby I L u o i s i a d e Ar c h i p e l a g o Marovo Lagoon World-class diving amid spectacular coral reefs (p214) S O L O M O N S E A Guadalcanal HONIARA 10ºS 152ºE 154ºE 156ºE 158ºE

7 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Regis St Louis Coordinating Author; Port Moresby; Central, Oro & Milne Bay Provinces; Island Provinces A big fan of off-the-beaten-path travel, Regis has fallen hard for the tropical islands and remote villages of Papua New Guinea. On this trip, he took over a dozen flights hopping across the New Guinea Islands, walked a long stretch of the Kokoda Track and took countless banana boat rides across oftenrough seas. He also celebrated with Alotau residents at the magnificent Milne Bay Canoe and Kundu Festival, lingered on deserted islands in Kimbe Bay and caught an impromptu singsing at the paramount chief s village in the Trobriands. A longtime travel writer, Regis has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet titles. He lives in Brooklyn, New York. Read more about Regis at: lonelyplanet.com/members/regisstlouis Jean-Bernard Carillet Solomon Islands Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a die-hard island lover and diving instructor. He has clocked up numerous trips to the South Pacific, including four assignments to the Solomon Islands. On this research gig he searched for the best dive sites, the most thrilling adventure tours and the best value accommodations. His favourite experiences included swimming with dugongs off Tetepare Island, diving the reefs around Kicha Island and crossing Marovo Lagoon by boat. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles, in French and in English, and coordinated Lonely Planet diving guides. He also writes for travel and dive magazines. Dean Starnes Morobe & Madang Provinces, The Highlands, The Sepik Dean first visited PNG in 2007 when he worked on the 8th edition of this guide and has been biding his time until he could return ever since. No stranger to off-the-map travel (he has also worked on Lonely Planet guides covering Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kyrgyzstan, Burundi and Mongolia), he finds the cultural diversity, genuinely hospitable people and rugged scenery hard to beat. When he s not writing for Lonely Planet, Dean lives in New Zealand with his wife and his wife s cat (the cat s not thrilled about that arrangement). His website, features photography and stories about his wayfaring ways. Read more about Dean at: lonelyplanet.com/members/dean_starnes OVER PAGE MORE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN th edition Sep 2012 ISBN Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

8 Contributing Authors Peter FitzSimons Peter writes for the Sydney Morning Herald and the Sun-Herald. He has played for the Wallabies, written 18 books and was Australia s best-selling nonfiction author in 2001 and 2004, the latter with his book Kokoda. Married to television presenter Lisa Wilkinson, Peter has three children and lives in Sydney. Tim Flannery Tim is a scientist, explorer and writer. He has written several award-winning books including The Future Eaters, Throwim Way Leg (an account of his work as a biologist in New Guinea) and The Weather Makers. He lives in Sydney where he is a professor in the faculty of science at Macquarie University.

9 Itineraries Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. 21 Madang BISMARCK SEA Tari Mendi Lake Kutubu Mt Hagen Mt Wilhelm R Kegsugl Asaro Goroka PAPUANEW GUINEA Lae Salamaua SOLOMON SEA Gulf of Papua #_ PORT MORESBY Two Weeks Mainland Odyssey Spend a day taking in the highlights of Port Moresby before flying up to pretty Madang. Spend a couple days diving or snorkelling and exploring nearby islands before going down to Lae for a look at the Rainforest Habitat and the picturesque village of Salamaua, one hour south. Next, take a bus up the Highlands Hwy to Goroka and see the Goroka Show, or visit the mudmen of Asaro just northwest of Goroka. Continue up to Kegsugl Betty s Place is a good base for the amazing climb up Mt Wilhelm. After enjoying the view of both coasts, make the descent for travel onward to Mt Hagen, enjoying the spectacular scenery and a game of Highlands darts. If there s no clan warfare, continue along the highway to Tari via Mendi and stunning Lake Kutubu, but if the feisty Southern Highlanders are fighting you d better do this leg by aeroplane the beautiful Tari Basin is worth it. Don t miss the Huli Wigmen. From Tari fly back to Port Moresby and, if time allows, spend a final day relaxing on Loloata Island.

10 22 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Kokoda Kokoda Track PORT Owers' MORESBY Corner #_ Popondetta PAPUANEW GUINEA SOLOMON SEA Tufi D'Entrecasteaux Islands Alotau Wagawaga Trobriand Islands Kaibola Losuia Kiriwina Island East Cape CORAL SEA Samarai Kwato Island Island Three to Four Weeks Eastward Wander Enjoy the relative comforts of Port Moresby before taking on one of PNG s most memorable and challenging! treks: the famous Kokoda Track. Get a feel for the challenges faced by the troops by walking for days along this rugged path, traversing chilly streams, visiting old bunker installations and war memorials and stopping at remote villages along the way. Take the classic route from Owers Corner; afterwards, spend a day relaxing in the peaceful settlement of Kokoda. From there catch a PMV to Popondetta and fly on to Tufi, a stunning area of pretty coastline and steep fjord-like rias, with a lush, mountainous interior. Treat yourself to a couple nights at the Tufi Resort. Go diving or snorkelling, fish for your dinner, and explore the area by boat and kayak. From here spend a few nights in one or more of the village guesthouses in the area. Accommodation is rustic, but the setting is fantastic white sand beaches, swaying palms, coral reefs at your doorstep, with guides who can lead you to waterfalls or on birdwatching expeditions. Afterwards, fly from Tufi back to Port Moresby and on to Alotau, gateway to the idyllic beauty of Milne Bay. Spend a day taking in the market, the harbour and fine views from Top Town. Then catch an afternoon boat out to the colonial-era capital of Samarai Island and nearby Kwato Island the bungalows of Nuli Sapi make a fine base for exploring the area. Afterwards, head back to Alotau and over to Wagawaga. Visit waterfalls, go for a dugout canoe trip on the Dawadawa River and enjoy serene views from Ulumani Treetops Lodge. Afterwards, cross back to Alotau, load up on provisions and fuel and head up to East Cape then by boat for an adventure exploring the D Entrecasteaux Islands. Birdwatching, rainforest walks, pretty beaches, coral reefs and peaceful villages are all part of the allure of this little-visited region. For the final leg of the journey, fly from Alotau up to Losuia on Kiriwina, the largest of the Trobriand Islands. Spend three days visiting traditional villages, learning about yam power and magic and perhaps catching a singsing or a festive cricket match. Stay at least one night in a village; Kaibola, perched near a picturesque beach is a good option. From Kiriwina it s an easy flight back to Moresby.

11 23 GEORGE STEINMETZ/CORBIS REINHARD DIRSCHERL/GETTY IMAGES» (above) Children making their way to school on a once-a-month traditional day on Kiriwina Island (p 70 )» (left) The diving in Papua New Guinea is world renowned (p 25 ) PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES

12 24 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Kavieng Lavongai (New Hanover Island) BISMARCK SEA Kimbe Bay Walindi Hoskins New Britain PAPUA NEW GUINEA Rabaul Namatanai New Ireland SOLOMON SEA Buka Island Buka Bougainville Island Rambling Across the Solomons SOLOMON ISLANDS SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN Gizo Munda Seghe Langa Langa Gatokae Lagoon Island Savo Malaita #_ Island HONIARA Guadalcanal Three Weeks Across the Solomons World-class diving, virgin waves and idyllic island retreats: the Solomon Islands is a place for adventurers. Start your journey in Honiara. Take in the market, the wharf and national museum, then tack on a tour of the battlefields and pretty beaches outside the capital. Next take a boat to Savo, a volcanic island with boiling hot springs, a massive megapode field and pretty, tropical scenery. Spend a few days unwinding here before boating back to Honiara and catching an onward flight to Gatokae Island, which provides access to South Marovo Lagoon, a great setting for snorkelling, swimming and simply soaking up the tropical beauty. Catch a boat up to the north end of the lagoon for a stay in one of the pristine ecolodges, then continue by plane from Seghe to Munda, a fine base for diving, surfing and bushwalking in New Georgia. From here continue west by boat to Gizo, a first-rate diving and up-andcoming surfing spot. Fly back to Honiara, then catch a boat to Langa Langa Lagoon for a blissfully relaxing night or two on scenic Malaita Island. Three Weeks Island Rambling A world away from the Highlands, the steamy island provinces are a fantastic destination for surfers, divers, bush walkers and those wanting an idyllic Robinson Crusoe type getaway at the ends of the earth. From Moresby fly up to Hoskins, and spend a couple of days exploring Kimbe Bay at Walindi: diving or snorkelling, birdwatching, bushwalking and soaking in hot springs. Afterwards, fly to Rabaul. There, visit Matupit Island to check out belching Tavurvur, the volcano that buried the Pacific s prettiest city, before getting under the water at the WWII-era Submarine Base. Treat yourself to one of Kokopo s pretty resorts or sleep in the thick of the apocalyptic streetscape at the Rabaul Hotel. Fly on to Kavieng, where you can get your fill of surfing or diving, before heading toward Lavongai for a remote tropical island getaway. Afterwards, work your way down the Boluminski Highway, stopping at pretty guesthouses (like Dalom) along the way. Continue to Namatanai for the boat back to Rabaul and onward flight to Buka for a visit to pretty islands in the area. Then continue across to Bougainville for a ramble through a beautiful mountainous island with enormous DIY ecotourism potential.

13 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

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