THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Transcription

1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET PAGE 2 PLAN YOUR TRIP YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip :HOFRPH WR * 6RORPRQ,VODQGV 7KH /LIH $TXDWLF 7HVW \RXU PHWWOH RQ D GD\ WUHN IROORZLQJ WKH 0LOQH %D\ VWHSV RI $XVWUDOLDQ GLJJHUV DORQJ WKH,G\OOLF,VODQGV LI \RX OLNH«Looking for other travel resources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ÁLHV WKURXJK WKH EXVK ²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earn about the big picture, so you PNG AUSTRALIA USA APPS Location-based guides for the street lonelyplanet.com/mobile EBOOKS Guidebooks for your reader lonelyplanet.com/ebooks MAGAZINE For travel stories, inspiration & ideas lonelyplanet.com/magazine Lonely Planet in numbers 3 people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² 0D\,Q WKH %DWWOH RI WK 6HD DURXQG WKH HDV RI 1HZ *XLQHD WKH 8 DQG,PSHULDO -DSDQH VDYDJH HDFK RWKHU WR H[WHQW WKDW WKH RQO\ IRU WKH -DSDQHVH WR WD 0RUHVE\ LV RYHUODQG.RNRG QW V 3ROLWLFV LV D WRSV\ WXUY\ DՖDLU LQ 3DSXD 1HZ *XLQHD ZLWK D SDUOLDPHQW RIWHQ PLUHG LQ G\VIXQFWLRQ 7KLV LV SHUKDSV QRW VXUSULVLQJ JLYHQ WKH QD WLRQ V EHZLOGHULQJ SROLWLFDO FRPSOH[LWLHV ² ZKHUH 03V UHSUHVHQWLQJ ODQJXDJHV UHJXODUO\ FURVV WKH ÁRRU WR YRWH ZLWK WKH RSSRVLWLRQ RIWHQ VKRZLQJ OLWWOH RU QR DOOHJLDQFH WR WKHLU SROLWLFDO SDUW\ $V D FRQVHTXHQFH QFH ZKHQ 31* EHFDPH LQGHSHQGHQW RQO\ RQH SULPH PLQLVWHU VHUYHG D IXOO ÀYH \HDU WHUP ZLWKRXW EHLQJ EURXJKW GRZQ LQ D QR FRQ YRWH 6XUYLYDO QRW SROLF\ WHQGV WR EH WKH IRFXV RI 31* SROLWLF DRWLF SROLWLFDO VFHQH VRPHWLPHV WDNHV D WXUQ IRU WKH DEV DWH ZKHQ WZR PHQ HDFK FODLPHG WR EH WKH KH SUREOHPV EHJDQ ZKHQ 3ULPH 0 KH FRXQWU\ LQ W 70 languages spoken by our writers 12 seconds pass between posts on our Thorn Tree travel forum 100,000,000 Lonely Planet guidebooks sold, and still counting -XO\ 7KH -DSDQHVH WDNH WK countries covered by a Lonely Planet guide STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact -XO\ -DSDQHVH IRUFHV ODQG QRUWK FRDVW RI 1HZ *X WKH WRS RI WKH.RNRG ISBN papua-new-guinea-solomon-islands-9-cover.indd 2 LONELYPLANET.COM For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters can make sense of what you see population per sq km COU COUNTRY COUN UNTRY TRY & MULTICOUNTRY MULTIC MUL L LTICOUNT OUNTRY OUN RY Th original i i l The Comprehensive Adventurous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ÀQG VFDWWHUHG LVODQGV FRUDO UHHIV WHHPLQJ ÀVK OLIH DORQJ ZLWK D MDZ GURSSLQJ FOHDU GD\ 3URZO WKURXJK MXQJOH FODG VFHQ VZD\LQJ SDOPV WKH GD\ V IUHVKO\ FDXJKW ORYHO\ SDOP IULQJHG EHDFKHV KLGGHQ ZDWHUIDOOV FROOHFWLRQ RI ::,, SODQH DQG VKLSZUHFNV HU\ ZLWK YLOODJH JXLGHV HQ URXWH WR WKXQGHU VHDIRRG VHUYHG E\ PRRQOLJKW 2XWVLGH.DYLHQJ LQJ ZDWHUIDOOV RU LQ VHDUFK RI PDJQLÀFHQWO\ PHDQGHULQJ ULYHUV DQG VWHHS VLGHG UDLQIRUHVW /LYH DERDUG ERDWV DQG À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ÀVKLQJ LQ VQRUNHOOLQJ FRUDO UHHIV VXUÀQJ YLUJLQ ZDYHV QLJKWLQJ DW SHDFHIXO YLOODJHV DORQJ WKH ZD\ DOO DQG DOVR KRVW RI WKH FRORXUIXO &DQRH )HVWLYDO WKHVH SULVWLQH ZDWHUV ZLWK \HOORZÀQ WXQD YLVLWLQJ ZHOFRPLQJ YLOODJHV DQG VRDNLQJ XS WKH ZLWK J\UDWLQJ VLQJVLQJ JURXSV VWULQJ EDQGV DQG SULVWLQH LVODQG DPELHQFH 2YHUORRNLQJ D VPDOO SHRSOH SDFNHG ORQJERDWV UDFLQJ DFURVV WKH PDFNHUHO VDLOÀVK DQG WKH OHJHQGDU\ 3DSXDQ EODFN EDVV LQ DEXQGDQFH ZDWHUIURQW ED\ LQ 31* PAGE Papua New Guinea Today... History... Environment... The Kokoda Story... The People of PNG... ([SORULQJ WKH /DQGVFDSH 6,021 )2$/( /21(/< 3/$1(7,0$*(6 Welcome to PNG & Solomon Islands... Map Top Experiences... Need to Know... If You Like Month by Month... Itineraries... Diving in PNG & Solomon Islands... Kokoda Track... Regions at a Glance... Get the right guides for your trip Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council standards. FSC promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world s forests. AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 % , fax twitter.com/ lonelyplanet USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA % , toll free , fax facebook.com/ lonelyplanet UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ % , fax lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter 1/06/2012 9:37:21 AM

2 PAGE 38 ON THE ROAD YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips The Sepik p116 The Highlands p95 Morobe & Madang Provinces p75 Island Provinces p137 #_ Port Moresby p40 Central, Oro & Milne Bay Provinces p55 Solomon Islands p202 PAGE 183 SURVIVAL GUIDE PNG VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP Directory A Z Transport Language Index Map Legend THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Regis St Louis Jean-Bernard Carillet, Dean Starnes

3 Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author s top recommendation A green or sustainable option No payment required

4 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. Papua New Guinea On the Road PORT MORESBY AROUND PORT MORESBY Sogeri Road CENTRAL, ORO & MILNE BAY PROVINCES CENTRAL PROVINCE Hiritano Highway Kokoda ORO PROVINCE Popondetta Oro Bay Tufi MILNE BAY PROVINCE Alotau East Cape Wagawaga North Coast Samarai Island Near Samarai Island D Entrecasteaux Islands.. 68 Trobriand Islands MOROBE & MADANG PROVINCES MOROBE PROVINCE Lae Salamaua Wau & Around Black Cat Trail MADANG PROVINCE Madang Krangket Island Balek Wildlife Sanctuary.. 91 Ohu Jais Aben Area Alexishafen Malolo Ulingan Bay Karkar Island Bogia, Hansa Bay & Manam Island Simbai THE HIGHLANDS EASTERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE Goroka SIMBU PROVINCE Kundiawa Mt Wilhelm Walking to Madang WESTERN HIGHLANDS & JIWAKA PROVINCES Mt Hagen Wahgi Valley ENGA PROVINCE Wabag SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE Mendi Lake Kutubu & Around HELA PROVINCE Tari THE SEPIK EAST SEPIK PROVINCE Wewak Around Wewak SANDAUN PROVINCE Vanimo THE SEPIK & ITS TRIBUTARIES Upper Sepik Middle Sepik Lower Sepik Tributaries & Lakes ISLAND PROVINCES NEW BRITAIN East New Britain Province West New Britain Province NEW IRELAND PROVINCE Kavieng Lavongai (New Hanover) & East Islands East Coast NORTH SOLOMONS PROVINCE Buka Island Bougainville For the Solomon Islands see p 201

5 Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands 142ºE 144ºE 146ºE 150ºE 148ºE ELEVATION km 100 miles 3600m 2700m 2100m 2ºN 1500m 900m SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN 600m 300m 0 Equator Sepik River Big adventures on the jungle-clad Sepik (p116) Lavongai Idyllic island getaway (p156) ADMIRALTY IS Lorengau 2ºS Mt Wilhelm Views of both coasts from PNG's highest peak (p104) Vanimo Aitape Lavongai (New Hanover) I Ar c h i p e l ag o BISMARCK SEA Muschu I Wewak r Sepik Rive Pagwi Ambunti INDONESIA Cen t ra l Ran Bogia Karkar I ge Talasea Madang Wabag Tari Vi Mt Wilhelm (4509m) ti az Goroka Mt Hagen Kundiawa Mendi Lake Murray Mt Bosavi (2507m) ve r Lae Kerema Gulf of Papua B i s ma r c k SOLOMON SEA Morobe Mt Albert Edward (3990m) St an Bereina le Goroka Home to the brilliantly colourful Goroka Show (p98) y an Sogeri ge t Loloata I 10ºS Kupiano AUSTRALIA CORAL 144ºE SEA 146ºE Goodenough I Ward Hu nt St i ra PORT MORESBY TROBRIAND IS Popondetta Tufi Kokoda R Torres Strait Kimbe Huon Gulf Salamaua Wau Kokoda Track Famous and tortuous 96km trek (p29) New Britain ai t Huon Peninsula Crater Mtn (3118m) en Ri St r Ow Fly Madang Lovely laid-back town with great diving (p86) Manam I Angoram Timbunke Kavieng B i sma r c k Alotau Gateway to enchanting Milne Bay (p62) 148ºE Alotau Samarai I 150ºE

6 Top Experiences 160ºE Auki Langa Langa Lagoon HONIARA 10ºS Guadalcanal Malaita I 162ºE 164ºE Mataniko & Tenaru Falls Magnificent scenery just outside Honiara (p213) Makira I S O L O M O N I S L A N D S 166ºE 168ºE S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N 12ºS Lake Te'Nggano Same scale as main map S O L O M O N S E A To Anuta & Fatutaka Islands (100km) 2ºS New Ireland Rabaul Kokopo S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N Rabaul Volcanoes, wreck dives and apocalyptic landscapes (p146) 4ºS p e l a g o Buka Buka I Bougainville h i A r c Trobriand Islands Fascinating traditional cultures (p70) S O L O M O N I S L A N D S 6ºS Kiriwina I P A P U A N E W G U I N E A Gizo New Georgia I See Inset 8ºS Fergusson I D'ENTRECASTEAUX IS Normanby I L u o i s i a d e Ar c h i p e l a g o Marovo Lagoon World-class diving amid spectacular coral reefs (p214) S O L O M O N S E A Guadalcanal HONIARA 10ºS 152ºE 154ºE 156ºE 158ºE

7 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Regis St Louis Coordinating Author; Port Moresby; Central, Oro & Milne Bay Provinces; Island Provinces A big fan of off-the-beaten-path travel, Regis has fallen hard for the tropical islands and remote villages of Papua New Guinea. On this trip, he took over a dozen flights hopping across the New Guinea Islands, walked a long stretch of the Kokoda Track and took countless banana boat rides across oftenrough seas. He also celebrated with Alotau residents at the magnificent Milne Bay Canoe and Kundu Festival, lingered on deserted islands in Kimbe Bay and caught an impromptu singsing at the paramount chief s village in the Trobriands. A longtime travel writer, Regis has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet titles. He lives in Brooklyn, New York. Read more about Regis at: lonelyplanet.com/members/regisstlouis Jean-Bernard Carillet Solomon Islands Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a die-hard island lover and diving instructor. He has clocked up numerous trips to the South Pacific, including four assignments to the Solomon Islands. On this research gig he searched for the best dive sites, the most thrilling adventure tours and the best value accommodations. His favourite experiences included swimming with dugongs off Tetepare Island, diving the reefs around Kicha Island and crossing Marovo Lagoon by boat. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles, in French and in English, and coordinated Lonely Planet diving guides. He also writes for travel and dive magazines. Dean Starnes Morobe & Madang Provinces, The Highlands, The Sepik Dean first visited PNG in 2007 when he worked on the 8th edition of this guide and has been biding his time until he could return ever since. No stranger to off-the-map travel (he has also worked on Lonely Planet guides covering Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kyrgyzstan, Burundi and Mongolia), he finds the cultural diversity, genuinely hospitable people and rugged scenery hard to beat. When he s not writing for Lonely Planet, Dean lives in New Zealand with his wife and his wife s cat (the cat s not thrilled about that arrangement). His website, features photography and stories about his wayfaring ways. Read more about Dean at: lonelyplanet.com/members/dean_starnes OVER PAGE MORE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN th edition Sep 2012 ISBN Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

8 Contributing Authors Peter FitzSimons Peter writes for the Sydney Morning Herald and the Sun-Herald. He has played for the Wallabies, written 18 books and was Australia s best-selling nonfiction author in 2001 and 2004, the latter with his book Kokoda. Married to television presenter Lisa Wilkinson, Peter has three children and lives in Sydney. Tim Flannery Tim is a scientist, explorer and writer. He has written several award-winning books including The Future Eaters, Throwim Way Leg (an account of his work as a biologist in New Guinea) and The Weather Makers. He lives in Sydney where he is a professor in the faculty of science at Macquarie University.

9 Itineraries Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. 21 Madang BISMARCK SEA Tari Mendi Lake Kutubu Mt Hagen Mt Wilhelm R Kegsugl Asaro Goroka PAPUANEW GUINEA Lae Salamaua SOLOMON SEA Gulf of Papua #_ PORT MORESBY Two Weeks Mainland Odyssey Spend a day taking in the highlights of Port Moresby before flying up to pretty Madang. Spend a couple days diving or snorkelling and exploring nearby islands before going down to Lae for a look at the Rainforest Habitat and the picturesque village of Salamaua, one hour south. Next, take a bus up the Highlands Hwy to Goroka and see the Goroka Show, or visit the mudmen of Asaro just northwest of Goroka. Continue up to Kegsugl Betty s Place is a good base for the amazing climb up Mt Wilhelm. After enjoying the view of both coasts, make the descent for travel onward to Mt Hagen, enjoying the spectacular scenery and a game of Highlands darts. If there s no clan warfare, continue along the highway to Tari via Mendi and stunning Lake Kutubu, but if the feisty Southern Highlanders are fighting you d better do this leg by aeroplane the beautiful Tari Basin is worth it. Don t miss the Huli Wigmen. From Tari fly back to Port Moresby and, if time allows, spend a final day relaxing on Loloata Island.

10 22 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Kokoda Kokoda Track PORT Owers' MORESBY Corner #_ Popondetta PAPUANEW GUINEA SOLOMON SEA Tufi D'Entrecasteaux Islands Alotau Wagawaga Trobriand Islands Kaibola Losuia Kiriwina Island East Cape CORAL SEA Samarai Kwato Island Island Three to Four Weeks Eastward Wander Enjoy the relative comforts of Port Moresby before taking on one of PNG s most memorable and challenging! treks: the famous Kokoda Track. Get a feel for the challenges faced by the troops by walking for days along this rugged path, traversing chilly streams, visiting old bunker installations and war memorials and stopping at remote villages along the way. Take the classic route from Owers Corner; afterwards, spend a day relaxing in the peaceful settlement of Kokoda. From there catch a PMV to Popondetta and fly on to Tufi, a stunning area of pretty coastline and steep fjord-like rias, with a lush, mountainous interior. Treat yourself to a couple nights at the Tufi Resort. Go diving or snorkelling, fish for your dinner, and explore the area by boat and kayak. From here spend a few nights in one or more of the village guesthouses in the area. Accommodation is rustic, but the setting is fantastic white sand beaches, swaying palms, coral reefs at your doorstep, with guides who can lead you to waterfalls or on birdwatching expeditions. Afterwards, fly from Tufi back to Port Moresby and on to Alotau, gateway to the idyllic beauty of Milne Bay. Spend a day taking in the market, the harbour and fine views from Top Town. Then catch an afternoon boat out to the colonial-era capital of Samarai Island and nearby Kwato Island the bungalows of Nuli Sapi make a fine base for exploring the area. Afterwards, head back to Alotau and over to Wagawaga. Visit waterfalls, go for a dugout canoe trip on the Dawadawa River and enjoy serene views from Ulumani Treetops Lodge. Afterwards, cross back to Alotau, load up on provisions and fuel and head up to East Cape then by boat for an adventure exploring the D Entrecasteaux Islands. Birdwatching, rainforest walks, pretty beaches, coral reefs and peaceful villages are all part of the allure of this little-visited region. For the final leg of the journey, fly from Alotau up to Losuia on Kiriwina, the largest of the Trobriand Islands. Spend three days visiting traditional villages, learning about yam power and magic and perhaps catching a singsing or a festive cricket match. Stay at least one night in a village; Kaibola, perched near a picturesque beach is a good option. From Kiriwina it s an easy flight back to Moresby.

11 23 GEORGE STEINMETZ/CORBIS REINHARD DIRSCHERL/GETTY IMAGES» (above) Children making their way to school on a once-a-month traditional day on Kiriwina Island (p 70 )» (left) The diving in Papua New Guinea is world renowned (p 25 ) PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES

12 24 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Kavieng Lavongai (New Hanover Island) BISMARCK SEA Kimbe Bay Walindi Hoskins New Britain PAPUA NEW GUINEA Rabaul Namatanai New Ireland SOLOMON SEA Buka Island Buka Bougainville Island Rambling Across the Solomons SOLOMON ISLANDS SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN Gizo Munda Seghe Langa Langa Gatokae Lagoon Island Savo Malaita #_ Island HONIARA Guadalcanal Three Weeks Across the Solomons World-class diving, virgin waves and idyllic island retreats: the Solomon Islands is a place for adventurers. Start your journey in Honiara. Take in the market, the wharf and national museum, then tack on a tour of the battlefields and pretty beaches outside the capital. Next take a boat to Savo, a volcanic island with boiling hot springs, a massive megapode field and pretty, tropical scenery. Spend a few days unwinding here before boating back to Honiara and catching an onward flight to Gatokae Island, which provides access to South Marovo Lagoon, a great setting for snorkelling, swimming and simply soaking up the tropical beauty. Catch a boat up to the north end of the lagoon for a stay in one of the pristine ecolodges, then continue by plane from Seghe to Munda, a fine base for diving, surfing and bushwalking in New Georgia. From here continue west by boat to Gizo, a first-rate diving and up-andcoming surfing spot. Fly back to Honiara, then catch a boat to Langa Langa Lagoon for a blissfully relaxing night or two on scenic Malaita Island. Three Weeks Island Rambling A world away from the Highlands, the steamy island provinces are a fantastic destination for surfers, divers, bush walkers and those wanting an idyllic Robinson Crusoe type getaway at the ends of the earth. From Moresby fly up to Hoskins, and spend a couple of days exploring Kimbe Bay at Walindi: diving or snorkelling, birdwatching, bushwalking and soaking in hot springs. Afterwards, fly to Rabaul. There, visit Matupit Island to check out belching Tavurvur, the volcano that buried the Pacific s prettiest city, before getting under the water at the WWII-era Submarine Base. Treat yourself to one of Kokopo s pretty resorts or sleep in the thick of the apocalyptic streetscape at the Rabaul Hotel. Fly on to Kavieng, where you can get your fill of surfing or diving, before heading toward Lavongai for a remote tropical island getaway. Afterwards, work your way down the Boluminski Highway, stopping at pretty guesthouses (like Dalom) along the way. Continue to Namatanai for the boat back to Rabaul and onward flight to Buka for a visit to pretty islands in the area. Then continue across to Bougainville for a ramble through a beautiful mountainous island with enormous DIY ecotourism potential.

13 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.