TRAVEL Cooktown.indd 34 19/11/13 3:25 PM

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1 Cooktown.indd 34 19/11/13 3:25 PM

2 PARADISE Found See why this tropical treat is one of Queensland s most popular RV destinations WORDS BY REBECCA FIST, PHOTOGRAPHY BY REBECCA FIST AND SAM REES-JONES Cooktown.indd 35 19/11/13 8:35 AM

3 THE APOLLO Talvor s Apollo Euro Deluxe features six berths with plenty of space and storage. Features like air-conditioning, huge windows, and gas hot water really made it feel like home while we were on the road. Welcome to Far North Queensland! This marks the first of a six-part series an exclusive C&M trip in a luxury Talvor motorhome. Be sure to look out for future issues as we bring you the best parts of the beautiful Sunshine State. Cooktown has a certain energy about it, and the people have a strong sense of the town s history. After its namesake Captain James Cook landed here aboard the HMAS Endeavour in 1770, Cooktown has remained relatively untouched with just a main street and a population of around 2300 people. It s a friendly place to visit, and the locals are more than happy to have you around. Don t let Port Douglas or Cairns be your final point of call on your journey north, keep heading to Cooktown for a slice of paradise. Campers at Rifle Creek on the way to Cooktown THE DRIVE Though it s possible to drive directly from Cairns to Cooktown in a day, we recommend stopping off overnight at the Rifle Creek Rest Area. It s a pleasant, shady location for a pit-stop with room aplenty for dozens of RVs. The campground is surprisingly quiet at night considering it s located beside the main road. We met a couple and their dog who were glad to be taking the extra time in this shady free camp. We were intrigued by the creek names along the way perhaps it s our vivid imagination, but Saltbag Creek, Chinaman Creek, and Battle Creek all triggered great conversations and speculation. There are a couple of roadhouses on the road to Cooktown if you feel the need to stop and recuperate. We particularly liked the Palmers Creek Roadhouse. Over and above everything you d expect Spacious, grassy sites at the Lions Den Campground A friendly pool shark before he cleaned up the table to find at a roadhouse, such as toilets, food, drinks, and fuel, you ll also find tourist information pamphlets, maps, a shelf of handy traveller s books to borrow while sipping your coffee and a dartboard if you want a quick game before you hit the road again. Be aware of wildlife and rogue cattle as you travel along the Mulligan Highway, and avoid travelling at night. Wedge-tail eagles glide in circles above the highway ready to swoop on fresh road-kill. No need to stock your pantry in Cairns, because while Cooktown is one of those beautiful small towns that have yet to be touched by a major supermarket, all of the good, fresh produce you could ask for is available here whether it s seafood, fruit, vegies or meat. There s even a vendor who sells seafood out of a truck! A couple of fellow caravanners were glad they bought prawns for dinner. The price was very reasonable, and the prawns were delicious, and they made for an easy meal, says Fay. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE BEST NATURAL ATTRACTION Max, owner of the Lions Den Hotel, recommends heading to the waterfalls near Wujal Wujal along the Bloomfield Track Cooktown.indd 36 20/11/13 10:06 AM

4 THE BLOOMFIELD TRACK From the south you can get to Cooktown two ways, via the Mulligan Highway or via Cape Tribulation on the Bloomfield Track. Don t even think about taking the Bloomfield Track unless you ve got an off-road caravan or a 4WD and a tent. Past Cape Tribulation the road is in some parts steep, narrow and winding, and boggy when it rains. We spoke to Ros and John in Townsville who are caravanners and firm believers in seeing Australia in its entirety. They travelled the Bloomfield Track in their 4WD and camped in Cooktown for four nights. Dinner caught off the Cooktown Jetty RV FRIENDLY Cooktown recently achieved an official RV Friendly status from the CMCA. Why not? The streets are wide, parking is convenient, there s a public dump point along the main street and the place just oozes relaxation. Locals are very proud of this recognition and excited to welcome even more RVers than usual. There were many representatives from the CMCA and other various caravan clubs who helped out with the agricultural show, the show organisers thought they were absolutely wonderful, says Sandy, who maintains the Cooktown Botanic Gardens. Let s hope this mutually beneficial relationship is maintained for years to come We loved seeing the dense green forest along the Bloomfield Track, but the most amusing part of the trip was the whizbangers, says John. Whizbangers are backpackers in casual, budget campervans, and usually aren t very experienced in tough terrain. A few vans tried to make it up the track and we found them bogged in ditches. We pulled out the winch to tow the first lot back the way they came and they wanted to keep on moving north just madness! If you re equipped to take the Bloomfield Track, you re in for a treat. Make sure you stop to check out the Aboriginal artwork at Wujal Wujal on your way, and refresh yourself at the waterfalls, which are the lifeblood of this territory. BEAUTIFUL WARM DAYS AND PRISTINE RIVERSIDE CAMPING THAT S THE LURE OF COOKTOWN! Fishing off the jetty IN TOWN Once you ve made it safely to Cooktown, do a guided tour of the Botanic Gardens with Sandy, the curator, on Wednesdays at 10am or show yourself around. If you go it alone, chances are you ll have the place to yourself. In August, though, when the agricultural show was on, Sandy had 50 people come through the gardens with her. The Cooktown streets are wide, motorists aren t in too much of a rush, and there is plenty of parking available for larger vehicles. The main street leads to the waterfront, and boasts many shady spots with picnic tables where you can pull out a packed lunch and enjoy the sea breeze. Definitely drop into the information centre, where the employees are very helpful. We had wondered on the drive up why the termite mounds were so small compared to others we d Driving beside the mouth of the Endeavour River Cooktown.indd 37 19/11/13 8:36 AM

5 A cuppa on the road to Cooktown seen near Darwin. As we learned from the displays in the centre, the QLD mounds were smaller because the area is dry and the termites don t have to endure waterlogged conditions. Something that hadn t even crossed my mind was the snake situation apparently there are 34 endemic species dwelling in the area. Even though most are not dangerous, I changed into my covered shoes as soon as I got back to the motorhome! For those who like fishing, Cooktown is a top destination. There are crocs about, so be wary of where you cast and stand. We spotted a group of very relaxed fishermen perched on the abandoned railway bridge on our way into town. We pulled over at the Annan River, and asked them what they were fishing for. Crocs! says one, JAMES COOK HISTORICAL MUSEUM IS ONE YOU SIMPLY CANNOT MISS The seafood in these parts is tasty and fresh Setting up at the Lions Den campground and You ll take more photos home than we will fish, says his mate. They hadn t caught anything; chances are the boys were just taking the opportunity to get some time out. When we arrived in the town we also noticed that people were fishing off the jetty. These fellas were having more luck we saw a man reel in a large fish with half of its body chewed off. Obviously there are some even bigger fish out there. From the jetty, you can wander along and have a milkshake at Cook s Landing Kiosk. Take the River of Life walkway and enjoy reading little bits and pieces about the history of the place at intervals as you go. Cooktown is a place entrenched with history; there are more museums than supermarkets in town. James Cook Historical Museum is the one that you simply cannot miss. Leave half a day, at least, for this incredible display of historical memorabilia. The exhibition features a unique perspective of the Endeavour s visit to the Cooktown region in The museum preserves the actual anchor from the Endeav Cooktown.indd 38 19/11/13 5:55 PM

6 our, an incredible relic of history. It s worth the trip to Cooktown just to visit the Cook museum, says Carol, an impressed visitor. We ve been to almost every museum in the country, and this one and the Warrnambool Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum are the best we ve encountered. Tourism pamphlets might direct you towards the cemetery, which could be of interest to budding genealogists or those interested in the stories of some local historical figures. On the other hand, Grassy Hill is not just another lookout. This is a spot where the true beauty of the region unfolds. To the east, you can see the wide expanse of bay where Cook sailed in, to the north you see Fishing on the Annan River is accessible, even without a boat headland after headland of untouched beaches, to the west the river winds towards the bay, and south you spy the tree-topped Mount Cook. It s supposed to be a windy spot, but the wind behaved for us. There, we met travellers from Brisbane who marvelled at the serenity of Cooktown. They say that this is not civilisation, and that cities are civilised. We think that it s the other way around! says Helen. People are so friendly, it s not a rat-race on the roads and you can take things at an easy pace. Great milkshakes at the Cook s Landing Kiosk Any time of year, by midday the thermometer teeters above 30 degrees. So don t be caught out, make sure you wear sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses at all times, and be sure to drink plenty of water. A MEMORABLE STAY You simply must stay at the Lions Den Campground. We loved everything about it the open spaces, the grassy ground, the quirky pub, the refreshing river and last, but certainly not least, the friendly caravanners. The second we pulled up, our neighbour, Raelene, came out from FREE CAMPING ENDEAVOUR RIVER ESCAPE Camp area 17km north of Cooktown GPS: S E FREEBIES Grassy Hill Gain a perspective of the local environment and surrounding beauty. Fishing off the jetty Catch breakfast, lunch and dinner. RIFLE CREEK REST AREA Near Mt Molloy on the way to Cooktown GPS: S E 48 The lookouts on the way to Cooktown are pretty spectacular Cooktown.indd 39 19/11/13 8:37 AM

7 The River of Life walkway details the history of Cooktown MUST-SEES The Lions Den Hotel if you don t stay there at least drop in for a cold drink. James Cook Historical Museum a standout collection from early settlement days. Guurrbi Tours insightful Aboriginal rock art tours by an elder. Entertainment at the Lions Den Hotel her van and introduced herself. Within hours we were sharing wine, travel stories and songs with Raelene, her two sisters Rhonda and Sue, and their husbands. The pub itself at Lions Den is an iconic Australian watering hole, established in You can write on the wall or ceiling for a gold-coin donation (which goes to the Cooktown Lions Club) and add an anecdote to the thousands of pre-existing ones. Play a round of pool even if you don t have a partner, chances are a friendly traveller will team up with you for a game. There s an old, slightly off-tune piano, and both nights we were entertained by talented amateur pianists. We also loved having a giggle at the cheeky signage! Pizza at the pub is a popular dinner option, and an easy meal if you ve driven that day and would rather not cook. Beautiful warm days and pristine riverside camping that s the lure of Cooktown! Couples take their dog down to the river and splash around and mates group around the rocks with beer in hand to make the most of Cooktown.indd 40 19/11/13 8:37 AM

8 THE NEW FACE OF PRADO There s a new face in town and country and outback. New-Look Prado has arrived, looking better than ever with a redesigned front grille, rear lights, luxurious leather accented interior (in VX and Kakadu models) and all the bells and whistles you could want. But, as they say, this Prado isn t just a pretty face. In the Kakadu models, venture off-road and you re in more than capable hands as CRAWL control * and a Multi-Terrain Select system work seamlessly together, ensuring you get back to the shopping strip, safe and sound. Head to your local Toyota dealer, choose the 3.0L Turbo-diesel or 4.0L Petrol engine (unavailable on GX models), and you re ready for anything. *CRAWL Control is a driver assist technology and should not be used as a substitute for safe driving practices. Areas into which the vehicle is driven must be visually monitored. toyota.com.au 041_Toyota.indd 41 19/11/13 8:14 AM

9 Hosing off the van along the way IF YOU RE EQUIPPED TO TAKE ON THE BLOOMFIELD TRACK, YOU RE IN FOR A TREAT Look at the anchor but the sunrise views across the surrounding farmland are to die for. NEXT ISSUE from the Endeavour! We travelled in an Apollo Euro Deluxe rental vehicle manufactured by Thanks Talvor, without you, our adventures wouldn t have been possible. Part two of our six-leg trip down the QLD coast sees us exploring Port Douglas, one of the region s most RV-friendly escapes! the afternoon. You can float down the stream or pick up rocks to skim them along the top of the water. We were told that it s a croc-free zone, so we felt free to go for a refreshing dip. Prices for powered sites were very reasonable here, and even during peak season you don t feel as though you re packed like sardines on concrete slabs. It s a little bit out of town, GETTING THERE Head west from Port Douglas and take the Mulligan Hwy north to Cooktown 268km in total. Those with off-road vans can drive north along Cape Tribulation Road until you reach the Bloomfield Track. While this option is more direct, it will take more time due to more difficult terrain. WHERE TO STAY LIONS DEN HOTEL 398 Shiptons Flat Rd, Rossville (07) COOKTOWN HOLIDAY PARK Charlotte St, Cooktown (07) Cooktown.indd 42 19/11/13 5:57 PM