SAVE THE TREASURES OF NUBIA I

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2 SAVE THE TREASURES OF NUBIA I

3 PREFACE In order to ensure a better use of the Nile, by exercising control at all seasons over a river which must be checked when in flood and which must serve for irrigation, navigation and the generation of power, the United Arab Republic has decided to construct a second dam near Aswan. When the water is contained by this new dam, it will reach a considerable height; a huge lake will be formed, extending into Sudanese territory; all the great historical and artistic monuments and all the archaeological sites in the Nubian valley are threatened with submersion for ever. As a result of the construction of the High Dam, the Sadd el Aali, which has just begun, at the conclusion of the first stage in the work the water level will rise from 121 metres (393 feet) to 133 metres (491 feet); when construction is completed, it will reach 180 metres (585 feet) over several hundred kilometres of Egyptian and Sudanese territory (about 300 and 180 kilometres respectively). It is expected that the water level will reach 125 metres (406 feet) by mid-1964, which will result in the total or partial submergence of a large number of monuments, temples, chapels, tombs, fortresses and other relics of the greatest historical and artistic value, both in Sudan and in Egypt. The most notable among monuments to be directly affected are the Abu Simbel group and the group on the island of Philae, both situated in the territory of the United Arab Republic. Faced with these problems, the governments of the United Arab Republic and Sudan requested Unesco's assistance in appealing for international action to safeguard these threatened treasures. It is the opinion of the Executive Board of Unesco that, as the preservation of the cultural heritage of mankind is one of the Organization's main tasks under its Constitution, it is the Organization's duty to grant the govern-

4 merits of the United Arab Republic and Sudan the assistance they ask for, so as to prevent the irreparable loss to mankind which would result if such priceless monuments and sites were submerged. By agreement with the two governments, Unesco has already taken certain steps; in particular, it has sent experts to Egypt and Sudan to study the problems on the spot and find solutions for them. The problems attached to safeguarding monuments in Egypt differ from those of safeguarding monuments in Sudan. There are more monuments in Egyptian Nubia, and they are of greater artistic value, so that from this point of view they are more important than the Sudanese monuments. On the other hand, sites where excavation has revealed burial grounds and ancient dwellings have been more thoroughly explored in Egyptian Nubia than in Sudanese Nubia. Exploration of Egyptian Nubia must be completed and systematic work begun in Sudan, before the water closes over these regions for ever. A beginning was already made with the task of safeguarding these monuments in 1955, when the Study Centre for tb.6'history of the Art and Civilization of Ancient Egypt was established in Egypt, with assistance from Unesco. The latest technical methods are being used to make scientific surveys of the threatened monuments, showing as much detail as possible. Unesco has even undertaken to meet the cost of the aerial photographs required to prepare a very large photogrammetric map of Egyptian Nubia to a scale of 1/10,000. In addition, a Unesco expert has been working in 1959 on the preparation of a similar map of Sudan. Scientific and technical teams from the Documentation Centre and large numbers of expert egyptologists from other countries, who came under the auspices of Unesco, are already at work on the site to collect all the documentation possible before it is too late. An airconditioned floating laboratory has been set up on a long barge. The experts propose to protect in situ those of the Egyptian monuments that cannot be moved and are of the greatest value (those at Abu Simbel and Philae). Other small or large monuments temples, chapels or tombs such as those at Kalabsha, Dakka, Bet al Wali, Kertassi, Wadi es Sebua are to be dismantled and removed to safety. Extensive excavations will be imme-

5 diately carried out in the region to be submerged, which has not yet been explored. There are no monuments in Sudanese Nubia which can be protected in situ, but some of the smaller ones, such as the monuments at Buhen and Aksha, will have to be moved. International action as a result of Unesco's appeal will necessarily take the form of financial contributions by governments, institutions, foundations and public organizations, and technical assistance in the form archaeological, engineering and technical missions. In return for the international assistance it has requested, the United Arab Republic will authorize excavations in Nubia and other sites in Egypt, and will cede at least 50 per cent of the proceeds of these excavations, with the exception of certain items which are unique or essential for national museum collections, and will also cede certain ancient Nubian temples for transport abroad, together with a large number of antiquities which are State property. In its turn, the Government of Sudan will cede 50 per cent of the proceeds of excavations in the threatened region, in return for the international assistance it has requested. The purpose of this collection of photographs is to publicize the campaign Unesco has launched to safeguard the invaluable treasures of Egypt and Sudan and to preserve this heritage for all mankind.

6 1. Map of the Nile Valley The Nile is more than 6,500 km. (4,000 miles) long; it rises in Lake Victoria, then flows through Uganda, Sudan and Egypt, and finally into the Mediterranean. Nubia lies on either side of the present frontier between Egypt and Sudan. It is historically interesting because of the many human societies, with different cultures and of various origins, which have left their mark there, some of them dating from over 4,000 years ago. This could well be the cradle of our Mediterranean civilizations, which were founded and flourished along the banks of the Nile, the course of all life in this region. The fate of the monuments in the Nubian valley cannot be separated from the problem of water. Should the temples, sanctuaries and monuments now threatened with submersion be sacrificed to provide the parched land with the water required to feed a rapidly growing number of inhabitants and to supply the needs of growing industries? This Was the cruel dilemma that faced the authorities responsible for the development of the Nile Valley. Desiring to safeguard these monuments which are part of our common heritage, the Government of the United Arab Republic and the Government of the Republic of Sudan requested Unesco to secure for them the international assistance which is essential for the success of this tremendous task. The Director-General, of Unesco launched an appeal to governments and public and private institutions, and to the general public throughout the world. This collection of pictures is intended to make the problem clear, and to give an idea of many of the beautiful monuments to be found in Nubia. A few words will be added as to the measures which the experts propose to take in order to safeguard these monuments, thanks to international assistance.

7 2. Women carrying water in the desert Not far from the Nile lies the desert, where every drop of water is precious and has to be brought long distances by the most primitive forms of transport. It rains on only a few days in the year. O. The ancient 'Sakieh' or water-wheel The country on both banks of the Nile, however, is rich and fertile, because the water is full of silt. From early times the Egyptians have been familiar with irrigation systems by which new land can be brought under cultivation. Today, however, something more than these primitive methods is needed. 4. The Aswan Dam At the beginning of this century it became necessary to provide Egypt with a permanent irrigation system, to prevent all the water in the river from flowing into the sea. At the end of the month of July, the metal sluicegates of the present Aswan Dam, which was built between 1899 and 1902 and twice raised, are opened, so that the life-giving water can flood the parched fields north of the dam. 5. Land red with Nile mud, and field with new green growth As the flood waters recede in Nubia, the river banks become green again. The picture shows the extremely fertile red silt deposited by the Nile. As soon as the water has subsided, the peasants begin to cultivate the ground. The white line on the rocks marks the level of the river during the nine months when it is in flood. 6. Map To increase the capacity of the present reservoirs, therefore, the United Arab Republic decided to construct a High Dam, the Sadd el Aali, a few miles above the present dam. The shaded part of the map shows the size of the artificial lake, 500 kilometres (about 310 miles) long, which will be formed, and which will completely submerge several hundred sites in Nubia on both sides of the frontier between Egypt and Sudan. Once the High Dam is completed, the water level will NEVER be low enough for these sites and temples to be uncovered.

8 That is the reason for the urgent appeal being launched by the Director-General of Unesco. 7. Philae when above water This is the blue- and pink-hued island of Philae, soon after it has emerged from the water beneath which it is submerged for nine months of the year. Its temples were built by several royal heads, including the Pharaoh Nectanebo I, of the XXXth dynasty (about 360 B.C.), the Ptolemies and the first Roman emperors. The island was dedicated to the worship of Isis. When the High Dam is finished, Philae will be caught between the new dam and the old one; throughout the year the monuments on the island will be above water during the day-time, but their bases will always be under water at night, in order that the turbines of the old dam may generate electricity. Thus, several times a day the level will rise and fall 4 metres (13 feet), with the result that the foundations of the monuments will be eroded and will eventually disintegrate. To protect the sacred island, therefore, it is proposed to build low dykes around it, thus forming an artificial lake, from which the island would emerge for ever, in its former setting. O. Colonnade The famous colonnade built by Roman emperors, leading to the Temple of Isis. The eye travels towards the landingstage from which the statue of Isis was carried in procession along the Nile, and on to the background of granite rock on the edge of the valley. 9. First pylon This is the first pylon of the Temple of Isis, with two granite lions, dating from the first millennium B.C., in front of the entrance door. The bas-relief shows the goddess Isis with Horus and Hathor. 10. Partially submerged Temple of Ms View of the Temple of Isis in October, when it is submerged by the silt-red water after the sluice-gates of the Aswan Dam have been closed. 11. Kiosk of Trajan The portico of the Egypto-Roman Kiosk of Trajan, with 11

9 its fourteen columns, photographed during the season when the island is covered by the waters of the Nile. I.Z. Detail of the colonnade of the Mammisi Partially submerged, in the court of the Temple of Isis. To the Mammisi, or House of Birth, the mother-goddess came to give birth to her son Horus, who is identified with the Pharaoh himself. The human figures with cows' ears adorning the abaci are characteristic of Hathoric capitals, which are associated with the cult of female divinities. 13. Bas-relief showing a sacred boat The goddess Isis' sacred boat, a bas-relief on the Great Temple. On all holy occasions, the idol of Isis was taken from its tabernacle and transported to the near-by island of Bigeh, where it presided over the solemn libations at the tomb of Osiris, brother and husband of the goddess. Sometimes it was taken to sanctuaries farther south. 14. Philae under water For nine months in the year, the traveller following the Nile upstream to the south of Aswan sees only the upper part of the first pylons of the Temple of Isis and buoys drawing attention to the danger for shipping. 15. Kiosk of Kertassi We have now reached the Kiosk of Kertassi, which has partly collapsed, 45 kilometres (about 28 miles) south of the First Cataract. It dates back to the earliest buildings on Philae. The Kiosk could be transported to the Nubian oasis which it is intended to create in the desert, at the level of Kalabsha, and where several temples will be set up. 16. Quarry at Kertassi The wall in front has a monumental doorway leading to a small recess forming a naos. This quarry provided the stone used in the building of the Philae temples. Around the doorway are dedicatory inscriptions in Greek, the oldest of which date from the Antonine period. 17. Bet et Wali from a distance The small temple of Bet el Wali, which was hollowed out of the top of the cliff and commands a magnificent 13

10 lo. view of the Nile, was founded by Rameses II. A village lies around it. Bet el Wali, entrance to the temple The temple of Bet el Wali, which is subterranean, is almost entirely hollowed out of the rock. The picture shows the entrance to the temple. The experts consider that it would be feasible to cut away the stone, take the walls out of the cliff and reassemble the temple in an oasis to be created west of Kalabsha. 19. Kalabsha The temple of Kalabsha, 56 kilometres (35 miles) from the First Cataract, is the largest Graeco-Roman construction in Nubia, except for Philae. Preserved almost in its entirety, it has many other buildings associated with it landing-stages, quays, Mammisi (birth houses) and various chapels. The whole sanctuary may be transported stone by stone to the near-by oasis. 20. Expert at work inside temple Unesco expert, attached to the Documentation Centre, studying architectural details in the temple of Kalabsha. 21. Dendur Dendur is one of the most charming small sanctuaries dating from the Graeco-Roman period. It is dedicated to two people who were deified after drowning. Augustus himself worshipped them. Dendur was converted into a Christian church by the Copts. This is one of the temples the Egyptian Government proposes to offer as a grant, in return for foreign aid. 22. Gerf Hussein Gerf Hussein is a temple dedicated by Rameses II to Ptah. It is hewn out of the rock, with the exception of a court, adorned with a peristyle, the ruins of which are shown in this picture. The intention is to remove some of the features to museums. 2iO. Gerf Hussein An Osirian pillar depicting Rameses II, in the court of the temple of Ptah. 15

11 24. Dakka The Roman sanctuary dedicated to Thoth, at Dakka. It was begun in the Ptolemaic period by King Ergamenes of Ethiopia. This is the only temple in Nubia facing north. It is shown just before the annual submersion in mid-october. By the end of November, nothing can be seen except the top of the cornice of the pylon. In order to save the temple of Dakka, it is hoped that it can be transported stone by stone to one of the two oases to be created, along with other temples such as Bet el Wali and Kalabsha. Ao. Expert working by electric light In winter, work is done on temples more than 120 metres (390 feet) above sea level, but some of the monuments, such as Philae, Kalabsha, Kertassi and Dakka, which are lower down, are covered by the waters of the dam, and are exposed only in summer. Surveys can only be made over a period of six to eight weeks. During the day, the heat is so intense often above 50 C. (122 F.) that work is impossible. It is therefore often done at night, by the light of projectors. 26. Wadi es Sebua from a distance The temple of Wadi es Sebua was dedicated by Rameses II to the god Amon. It lies in a bend of the Nile, on the golden sand characteristic of Nubia, beneath a blue and cloudless sky. Wadi es Sebua presents a different problem from that of the preceding temples. As it is hewn out of sandstone and is in very bad condition, it cannot be saved. 27. Wadi es Sebua, Dromos The name of this temple The Valley of the Lions comes from the sphinxes which line the sacred avenue, or dromos, leading to the landing-stage on the Nile. It is the only sanctuary in which an avenue of this kind has been preserved. ^O. The drowning sphinx One of the sphinxes with lions' bodies, half submerged by the water. The experts propose to transport both the sphinxes from the dromos and the statues to a safe place, and to remove some Christian paintings from the inner 17

12 walls of the temple. The splendid reliefs in the pronaos and sanctuary will also be removed. 29. Derr The great temple of Derr is almost entirely hewn out of the rock, on the right bank of the river. It, too, was constructed by Rameses II, but it was dedicated to the third god of the Empire, Re. The Government of the United Arab Republic proposes to transport the temple wall by wall to museums in other countries, in recognition of the work done by those who will be co-operating in saving the monuments of Nubia. OU. ol. oji, So. Excavation at Atnada In the last year, excavations have been made in Egyptian Nubia, by Germans at Amada as seen in the picture by French at Wadi es Sebua, by Italians at Ikhmindi and by Egyptians at Aniba. The results have made it clear that much more is to be found buried in this region. Some parts of Sudanese Nubia may well be called 'the archaeologists' terra incognita'. No systematic excavation has been carried out so far in this part of the Nile Valley, which will vanish for ever beneath the waters of the river. Few of the sites in the threatened part of Sudanese Nubia have been even partially explored. Buhen Professor Walter B. Emery's recent discovery of a remarkable fortress dating from the Middle and New Kingdoms at Buhen, 345 kilometres (220 miles) south of Aswan, shows what valuable discoveries may result from archaeological investigations in Sudan. The photograph shows the remains of this fortress, which was built of unbaked brick. Like all the Nubian fortresses, it cannot be moved, and will be submerged by the waters. Buhen Another view of the fortress of Buhen, which stands on a cliff overlooking the Nile. As was required in this type of building, it has a chapel where the garrison worshipped its god. In this case, it is a small temple dedicated to Horus, and built 3,000 years ago. Relief in the temple of Buhen One of the remarkable painted reliefs in the temple of 19

13 Buhen. It dates from the XVIIIth dynasty (the time of Queen Hatshepsut and King Thutmosis II). II will be removed to safety. 34. Semna The Semna and Kumma sites include temples dating from between 1500 and 1400 B.C. This is detail of the temple of Kumma, which was dedicated to Khnoum and Sesostris III, and built by Thutmosis III. The Antiquities Service of the Republic of Sudan will decide upon removal of the temple to another site. 35. The Abu Simbel group The largest sanctuary built by the Pharaohs in Egyptian and Sudanese Nubia and the culmination of our journey is the Abu Simbel group in Egyptian Nubia, 280 kilometres (175 miles) from the First Cataract. Rameses II chose this geographically and strategically admirable situation as a site for the Holy of Holies. It consists of two temples cut into the rock, the temple of Rameses II and the temple of Nefertari. They lie on either side of an expanse of golden sand seen in the middle of the picture which runs down from an amphitheatre of pink sandstone. 36. Great temple The great temple of Abu Simbel, one of the masterpieces of world architecture, includes four colossi of Rameses II. They have been there for over 3,000 years, on each side of the door in the facade of the temple dedicated by the Pharaoh to the gods Horus, Amon and Ptah and to his own deified image. The colossi are 20 metres (65 feet) high, their mouths measure 1.10 metres (3 feet 7 inches), and their faces from ear to ear 4.17 metres (over 14 feet 6 inches). The royal children are visible between the feet of the four colossi. The head of the second colossus was broken centuries ago. Everywhere in this temple are statues and reliefs with Rameses' features. Above the entrance door is the sun god, Ra Horakhti. At certain times of the year the first rays of the sun stream into the interior of the Great Temple, bathing with their golden light first the huge Osirian pillars and then, in succession, according to the season, the four statues of the Holy of Holies. 21

14 37. Foot of one of the colossi This detail a foot with a human figure to indicate the scale is reproduced to give an idea of the size of this colossus of the Great Temple. Beneath the bird can be seen part of the bas-relief which shows a group of prisoners-of-war from the south. oo. Detail of bas-relief showing prisoners The figures carved on this relief more than 3,000 years ago are of exceptional grace and beauty. The racial types are remarkably clearly portrayed. o". Osirian pillars Within the Great Temple is an inner underground court, 18 metres (58 feet 6 inches) deep. The temple contains eight Osirian pillars representing the god Osiris with the features of Rameses II. The walls are covered with basreliefs of scenes from the public life of the Pharaoh. The picture shows the head of one of these statues. 40. Temple of the Queen The temple of Nefertari or Small Temple, to the north, was dedicated by Rameses II to his favourite wife, Queen Nefertari, and to the goddess Hathor. On the facade, beside each colossus of the King and Queen, are small figures in relief depicting the children of the royal couple. 41. Great Temple from above The Great Temple of Abu Simbel, which is cut into the sandstone, goes back 53 metres (172 feet) into the cliff. As the rock is in bad condition, and particularly because the temple goes so far back into the rock, it will have to be protected in situ, as will the Temple of the Queen. The experts are in favour of constructing an earth and rockfill dam, abutting on the cliff face at two points 700 metres (758 yards) apart. The dam would provide protection for both temples, and the trees and stretch of water in front of them would remain. In this way the temples would be preserved in their natural setting, at the tip of the peninsula formed by the rock from which the temples were hewn. It is true that the sun would reach the facade of the temple later in the day than it has throughout the centuries; but this project appears to offer a greater measure of protection than any of the others considered. For all these centuries the royal colossi of Abu Simbel 23

15 have challenged the powers of evil by their glorification of the sublime. How could we allow them to be destroyed in a few years by submersion beneath the muddy waters of the Nile? The international appeal launched by Unesco and addressed to 82 Member States MUST succeed if the temples of Abu Simbel and all the threatened monuments of Nubia are to be saved. 25

16 LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS No. Description Supplied by Map of the Nile Valley Women carrying water in the desert The ancient 'Sakieh' or water-wheel The Aswan Dam Land red with Nile mud Map of Nubian monuments The island or Philae when above water 8 Philae: colonnade leading to' the Temple of Isis 9 Philae: first pylon of the Temple of Isis 10 Philae: partially submerged Temple of Isis 11 Philae: Kiosk of Trajan 12 Philae: detail of the colonnade of the Mammisi 13 Philae bas-relief showing a sacred boat 14 Philae under water 15 Kiosk of Kertassi 16 Quarry at Kertassi 17 Bet el Wali from a distance 18 Bet el Wali, entrance to the temple 19 Kalabsha 20 Kalabsha: expert at work inside temple 21 Dendour 22 Gerf Hussein 23 Gerf Hussein: Osirian pillar 24 Dakka 25 Expert working by electric light 26 Wadi es Sebua from a distance 1. B.C. Expedition of the AMNH. Unesco AMNH* AMNH Ghr. Desroches-Noblecourt Unesco Jean Van der Haagen 27

17 No. Description Supplied by Wadi es Sebua, Dromos Wadi es Sebua: the drowning sphinx Derr Excavation at Amada Buhen Buhen Relief in the temple of Buhen Semna The Abu Simbel group Abu Simbel: Great Temple Abu Simbel: foot of one the colossi Abu Simbel: detail of basrelief showing prisoners Abu Simbel: Osirian pillars Abu Simbel: Temple of the Queen Abu Simbel: Great Temple from above Published in I960 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, place de Fontenoy, Paris-7". Printed in France by Union Typographique, Villeneuve-Saint-Georges (Seine-et-Olse). Unesco 1960 MC(NUB)60/VI.18/A