Month by Month. Mongol Daguur B. Chu. Tsagaan Sar, Feb Bulgan Camel Fe February Choibal. Kherlen Bar Khot

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET PAGE 1 PLAN YOUR TRIP YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip MICHAEL KOHN 14 Top Experiences... Welcome to Mongolia... Need to Know... If You Like Month by Month... Itineraries... Outdoor Activities... Regions at a Glance... Get the right guides for your trip TOP EXPERIENCES COUNTRY & CITY The original p Comprehensive Adventurous turous s Advent Know REGIONAL Cultural Day trips & itineraries In-depth Currency» tögrög (T) Naadam Festival Mongolians love their naadam (p222). With two or three days of serious wrestling action, awesome horse racing and dazzling archery, who wouldn t? While naadam literally means games, the celebration is much more than that. It s all about fun, getting together with friends and relatives, eating a lot of khuushuur (mutton pancakes) and emptying a vodka bottle or two. The most traditional festivals happen in small towns, where every member of the community is somehow involved. These village naadams are also super-photogenic you ll snap more photos than you ever thought possible. 1 When to Go 18 Mongol Daguur B Ugtam Uul Bayandun Bayan-Uul Dadal Toson Batshireet Khulstai Binder Baldan Baraivan Khiid Öglögchiin Kherem ULAANBAATAR _ Chinggis Khaan Statue Khökh Nuur Öndörkhaan January Cold. Damn Cold. Frozen toes and eyelashes cold. But that doesn t mean you can t visit the country. Hotels, restaurants and most other services still operate. This is a good time for short winter Dariganga walks in Terelj. Naadam, July Golden Eagle Fe Altai Tavan Bogd Khövsgöl Nuur National Park GO Jun Aug Khatgal IcePark Fest National Dadal GO May Sep GO Jun Sep Tsagaan Sar, Feb Bulgan Camel Fe February Choibal Baruun-Urt Sainshand Top Events Month by Month Kherlen Bar Khot Chu RUSSIA locals. It will be bitterly cold but skies are usually clear. Bulgan Camel z Festival This event happens during Tsagaan Sar. You ll see camel polo, camel racing and other camel games. Anklebone z Ice Shooting The long w lack of fodd livestock th for horse ri Arkhangai GO Jun Sep Ulaanbaatar GO Jun Aug Dornod GO May Ömnögov GO May, Aug Oct Warm to hot summers, cold winters Mild summers, cold winters z Nav The festival begi Ölgii on 22 family feast ditional gam Competition Khamaryn Khiid DISCOVER Best-of Photo-packed Inspirational ENCOUNTER Pocket-sized Easy-to-use Highlights HIKING PHRASEBOOK Two Weeks Eastern Mongolia Looking for other travel resources? Eastern Mongolia oֆers a delightful romp through grass historical sights. Best of all, it s almost completely devoid Heading east from UB, you ll pass the new Chinggis Khökh Nuur, a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronation northeast, visiting Baldan Baraivan Khiid, Öglögchiin K er as you travel through Khentii s scenic countryside. Ther UNDERSTAND 205 MONGOLIA PAGE Mongolia Today... History... The Mongolian Way of Life... Naadam... Traditional Gers... Spiritualism in Mongolia... Mongolian Cuisine... Tribal Mongolia... Wild Lands & Wildlife... Trans-Mongolian Railway... mongolia-6-cover.indd 2 GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see if Mongolia were 100 people The Mongolian Way of Life 95 would be Mongol (mostly Khalkh) 5 would be Turkic (mostly Kazakh) LONELYPLANET.COM For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters Every Mongolian, no matterr how long he or she has lived in a city, is a mad at heart. The nomadic way of life was born out of necessity in this gion as herders were forced to move their animals over the steppes in sea of grasslands. But even as new technologies were introduced, the coun remained a nomadic one, in large part because the nomadic way of became more than a necessity it became an unbreakable lifestyle. Wh today, more than ever, Mongolians are lured to the city in search of wo many choose to stay on the land with their animals, unable to give u reedom and independence aֆorded to them by their traditional lifestyle APPS Location-based guides for the street lonelyplanet.com/mobile EBOOKS Guidebooks for your reader lonelyplanet.com/ebooks MAGAZINE For travel stories, inspiration & ideas lonelyplanet.com/magazine STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact Ingredients for Life Mongo ian nomads have two crucial tools at their is osa. The Àrst a Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council standards. FSC promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world s forests. AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 % , fax twitter.com/ lonelyplanet USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA % , toll free , fax facebook.com/ lonelyplanet UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT % , fax lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter 30/03/2011 1:41:29 PM

2 PAGE 36 ON THE ROAD YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE Western Mongolia p180 Northern Mongolia p109 Central Mongolia p79 Ulaanbaatar p38 _ The Gobi p155 Eastern Mongolia p138 PAGE 245 SURVIVAL GUIDE YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE How to get around, get a room, stay safe, say hello Directory A Z Transport Health Language Index Map Legend Directory A-Z Accommodation The prices listed in this book re for a standard double om in the high season (sum- ). Tax (10%) is almost s built into the price. ide Ulaanbaatar action price ranges s: 00 Bookings It s a good idea to book ahead for any accommodation. In rural areas, accommodation is limited; so if you turn up at the same time as a big tour group or if a government conference is underway, you may nd every bed already booked out. You also need to book ahe for accommodation in baatar especi pro local are list tion entr aware, th houses ar nd in Turk Mongolia th getting a ho If the ow dog) give yo camping ne idea for ext erwise cam from othe have little Western so be p to ope insid tio THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Michael Kohn, Dean Starnes

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5 Look out for these icons: Our author s o recommendation A green or S sustainable option No payment F required ULAANBAATAR CENTRAL MONGOLIA TÖV Zuunmod Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area Eej Khad (Mother Rock) Nalaikh Around Nalaikh Terelj Area Gachuurt Khustain National Park ÖVÖRKHANGAI Arvaikheer Shankh Khiid Kharkhorin (Karakorum) West of Kharkhorin East of Kharkhorin ARKHANGAI Tsetserleg Tsenkher Hot Springs Ögii Nuur Khar Balgas Tsetserleg to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur National Park NORTHERN MONGOLIA SELENGE Sükhbaatar Altanbulag Dulaankhaan Darkhan Amarbayasgalant Khiid BULGAN Erdenet Bulgan City Around Bulgan KHÖVSGÖL Mörön Uushigiin Uver Khövsgöl Nuur National Park Chandman-Öndör Around Chandman- Öndör Darkhad Depression Mörön to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur EASTERN MONGOLIA KHENTII Öndörkhaan Delgerkhaan Khökh Nuur Baldan Bereeven Khiid Öglögchiin Kherem Binder & Batshireet Burkhan Khalduun Dadal DORNOD Choibalsan Kherlen Bar Khot Buir Nuur Khalkhiin Gol SÜKHBAATAR Baruun-Urt Dariganga Shiliin Bogd Uul Around Shiliin Bogd Uul THE GOBI DUNDGOV Mandalgov Baga Gazryn Chuluu Süm Khökh Burd Erdenedalai Ongiin Khiid Saikhan-Ovoo Ikh Gazryn Chuluu Ulaan Suvraga DORNOGOV Sainshand Around Sainshand Choir Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Zamyn-Üüd ÖMNÖGOV Dalanzadgad Around Dalanzadgad Gurvan Saikhan National Park Bayanzag Khanbogd Bulgan BAYANKHONGOR Bayankhongor City Shargaljuut Bayangovi

6 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road Amarbuyant Khiid Ekhiin Gol GOV-ALTAI Altai Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve Sutai Uul Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area WESTERN MONGOLIA BAYAN-ÖLGII Ölgii Tsambagarav Uul National Park Tolbo Nuur Sagsai Tsengel Altai Tavan Bogd National Park KHOVD Khovd City Khar Us Nuur National Park Chandmani Tsenkheriin Agui Mönkh Khairkhan National Park UVS Ulaangom Uvs Nuur Üüreg Nuur Kharkhiraa Uul & Türgen Uul Khökh Nuur Khar Us Nuur Achit Nuur Khyargas Nuur National Park ZAVKHAN Uliastai Zagastain Davaa Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Protected Area Tosontsengel Telmen Area

7 Itineraries Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. 21 Orkhon Khürkhree ARKHANGAI Tövkhön Khiid Erdene Zuu Khiid ÖVÖRKHANGAI BULGAN Khustain Nuruu National Park TÖV _ ULAANBAATAR Süm Baga Khökh Gazryn Burd Chuluu Eej Khad KHENTII Ongiin Khiid DUNDGOV Ulaan Suvraga BAYANKHONGOR Khongoryn Els Bayanzag Yolyn Am ÖMNÖGOV Two Weeks The Big Loop Spend a day in Ulaanbaatar visiting Gandan Monastery and the main museums. On day two, head south to the eerie rock formations of Baga Gazryn Chuluu and the ruined castle at Süm Khökh Burd, stopping at Eej Khad, Mother Rock, en route. From Süm Khökh Burd, stop by Ulaan Suvraga on your way south. At least three days are needed to explore Ömnögov: check out the spectacular ice canyon at Yolyn Am, the massive sand dunes at Khongoryn Els and the dinosaur quarry at Bayanzag. From Bayanzag, go north to the ruins of Ongiin Khiid desert monastery, a perfect place to organise a camel trek. Leaving the Gobi, your first stop is Erdene Zuu Khiid, the country s oldest monastery. Head west up the Orkhon Valley, to Tövkhön Khiid and then onto the Orkhon Khürkhree. The waterfall is the perfect place to unwind after a long trip to the Gobi, so spend a couple of nights here (and wash away the Gobi dust in the falls). If there s time on your way back to Ulaanbaatar, spend a night at Khustain Nuruu National Park.

8 22 RUSSIA RUSSIA PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Tavan Bogd Khoton Nuur Altai Tavan Bogd National Park Sagsai Tsengel Ölgii BAYAN- ÖLGII CHINA Tsambagarav Uul Üüreg Nuur Khovd KHOVD Ulaangom Kharkhiraa Valley Green Tara Khyargas Nuur UVS Khar Us Nuur National Park Chandmani Khetsuu Khad GOV-ALTAI Ikh Agui ZAVKHAN KHÖVSGÖL Uliastai Otgon Tenger Uul One Month Western Mongolia The western aimags offer adventurous travel and exploration. Adrenalin junkies can break out the mountain bike, kayak or mountaineering gear. Start with a flight to Khovd, from where you can hire a jeep and driver for a bird-watching and wildlife expedition to Khar Us Nuur National Park. At nearby Chandmani, visit the renowned throat singers. Stop by Dörgön sum for the chance to meet Megjin, a bona fide Green Tara (enlightened Buddha). Looping back through Khovd, continue northwest to the beautiful pastures and valley around Tsambagarav Uul. You could easily spend a couple of days here before moving on to Ölgii, a great place to recharge your batteries. Heading west from Ölgii, spend at least five days getting to, from and around Altai Tavan Bogd National Park. With more time, consider doing a horse trek around Khoton Nuur. With proper equipment, permits and some logistic support, it s even possible to scale Mongolia s highest peak, the 4374m Tavan Bogd, though a visit to the base camp and glacier is more feasible. On the way to or from Tavan Bogd, stop in Tsengel or Sagsai, authentic Kazakh villages that offer a taste of life in the Wild West. From Sagsai it s even possible to go rafting back to Ölgii. The best time to make this journey is in late September or early October, which gives you the chance to watch the spectacular Eagle Festival in Ölgii or Sagsai. From Ölgii, the main road winds northeast, passing Üüreg Nuur en route to Ulaangom. Allow a week for trekking around Kharkhiraa Valley. An experienced driver can get you from Ulaangom to Uliastai, visiting Khyargas Nuur and Ikh Agui en route. If you arrive at Khyargas Nuur before mid-september, you ll have a chance to see hundreds of squawking cormorants that roost here in summer. From pretty Uliastai you can get a flight to Ulaanbaatar, but not before mounting a horse or hiking to Otgon Tenger Uul. If you ve done this itinerary in reverse order, it may be possible to catch a flight from Khovd to Urumqi in Xinjiang. Contact AeroMongolia or EZ Nis in Ulaanbaatar for more information.

9 Bayan-Uul Dadal Batshireet Toson Khulstai Binder Baldan Bereeven Khiid Öglögchiin Kherem ULAANBAATAR Khökh Nuur _ Chinggis Khaan Statue RUSSIA Öndörkhaan Sainshand Khamaryn Khiid Mongol Daguur B Ugtam Uul Bayandun Kherlen Bar Khot Baruun-Urt Chuluunkhoroot Choibalsan Dariganga CHINA Khalkhiin Gol Sangiin Dalai Nuur Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected Area Nömrög Strictly Protected Area 23 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Two Weeks Eastern Mongolia Eastern Mongolia offers a delightful romp through grasslands, forest and some unique historical sights. Best of all, it s almost completely devoid of tourists. Heading east from UB, you ll pass the new Chinggis Khaan statue on the way to Khökh Nuur, a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronation of the great khaan. Continue northeast, visiting Baldan Bereeven Khiid, Öglögchiin Kherem, Batshireet and Binder as you travel through Khentii s scenic countryside. There are ger camps all along this route where you can stop for horse-riding trips in the mountains. Dadal is another good place for horse trekking or just kicking back with some locals, and is an excellent destination for Naadam. Make sure to visit Zundoi-Davag, a retired hunter who has assembled a small museum at his home. Following the Ulz Gol further east, you ll pass pretty Buriat villages, such as Bayan-Uul and Bayandun, and nature reserves including Ugtam Uul. If you re interested in meeting a shaman you may be fortunate enough to meet one by asking around in this area. Continue south towards Choibalsan. An alternative route to Choibalsan goes via the nature reserve Toson Khulstai and ancient ruins at Kherlen Bar Khot. From Choibalsan take the train to Chuluunkhoroot to visit Mongol Daguur B, a protected area for wader birds, or travel across the empty steppes to Khalkhiin Gol, a remote landscape of lakes, rivers, wildlife and historical sights. Highlights include giant Buddha statues carved into a hillside and monuments dedicated to soldiers who died here during WWII. You ll need another couple of days to visit the lush Nömrög Strictly Protected Area and Sangiin Dalai Nuur. From Nömrög, tackle the rough terrain in Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected Area to spot some truly massive herds of gazelle. The Dariganga region, with its sand dunes, cinder cones and scattered stone statues, requires two or three days. Horse trekking is also possible here. If you happen to be in the area in early October, this is the time to catch the large migration of swans at Ganga Nuur. Return to Ulaanbaatar via Baruun-Urt and Öndörkhaan, or travel to Sainshand for a taste of the Gobi and a visit to Khamaryn Khiid.

10 24 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Khustain Nuruu National Park TÖV ULAANBAATAR _ Mongol Tsergiin Khuree Shooting Range Mandshir Khiid Terelj National Park Chinggis Khaan Monument 13th Century Mongol War Camp One Week Around Ulaanbaatar If you ve got some spare time to kick around Ulaanbaatar, there is enough to see and do around the city to keep you busy for a few days. After a day of sightseeing around UB, head to Khustain Nuruu National Park for the night to watch the wild takhi horses. On the way to or from the park, stop at the Mongol Tsergiin Khuree Shooting Range, where you can sharpen up your tank-driving skills. Back in Ulaanbaatar, catch a ride to Mandshir Khiid in Töv aimag, from where you can hike back over the mountain to Ulaanbaatar. This can be done either as a full day trip or as an overnight hike. Next, head east to Terelj National Park. There are a number of activity options here, including mountain biking, horse riding, rock climbing, hiking and river rafting. If you have your own vehicle, push on a little further east to see the enormous Chinggis Khaan Monument at Tsonjin Boldog. The company that built the statue also runs the nearby 13th-Century Mongol War Camp, where you can watch mini naadams and see artisans create traditional products.

11 Tsaatan Camps Khövsgöl Tsagaannuur Khankh Nuur Renchinlkhumbe Ulaan Uul ZAVKHAN BAYANKHONGOR Khoridol Saridag Nuruu Jankhai Khatgal Mörön KHÖVSGÖL ARKHANGAI Chandman- Öndör Fly to Mörön Erdenet Bulgan RUSSIA SELENGE Amarbayasgalant Khiid TÖV DARKHAN-UUL _ ULAANBAATAR 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES One Month Northern Mongolia Start week one of this trip by flying to Mörön from Ulaanbaatar. Hire a vehicle in Mörön and drive to Tsagaannuur, breaking up the journey with a night at Ulaan Uul. In Tsagaannuur, drop into the TCVC and hire a guide and horses to get you out to the taiga and Tsaatan camps. Plan for a week of travel in the area. To start week two, get a lift to Renchinlkhumbe and then trek your way over the Khoridol Saridag Nuruu to the shores of Lake Khövsgöl. Then walk down the lakeshore until you reach Jankhai. Spend a few days relaxing at Nature s Door Guesthouse and then continue on to Khatgal. From Khatgal, the adventurous will make their way all the way up to Khankh on the northern shore of the lake. Alternatively, there are some gorgeous areas east of the lake in the Chandman-Öndör area. You ll need another week to explore this region. The trip back to Ulaanbaatar goes through a remote part of Bulgan aimag to the pleasant aimag capital of Bulgan. Further east, after passing through Erdenet, make a short detour to visit the magnificent Amarbayasgalant Khiid.

12 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Michael Kohn Coordinating Author, Ulaanbaatar, Central Mongolia, Northern Mongolia, Eastern Mongolia Michael first visited Mongolia in The first years were spent working as a reporter and editor for the Mongol Messenger newspaper. During that period, he interviewed the president, played a lead role in a Mongolian film, hosted a radio talk show and had a brief stint as a news presenter for a local TV station. His travels have led him to all 21 aimags, occasionally by bicycle or in the back of trucks, and when he is lucky by Hummer with politicians and diplomats. Michael s articles on Mongolian culture, politics and history have appeared in the New York Times, Wall Street Journal and San Francisco Chronicle. He is also the author of two books, Dateline Mongolia and Lama of the Gobi. He splits his time between Ulaanbaatar and California. Find him on the web at www. michaelkohn.us. Dean Starnes The Gobi, Western Mongolia Dean has travelled extensively throughout central and northeast Asia, but it wasn t until 2005 while researching his book Roam: the Art of Travel that he finally made it to Mongolia. That trip, which involved several near-death experiences and a growing dependency on vodka, confirmed his belief that Mongolia remains one of the best places on earth to experience genuine adventure. This trip, however, may have been his last. A shaman he met in Ölgii foretold that he would return to New Zealand and father four children. Until then, Dean is happy to spend his days writing for Lonely Planet, freelancing as a graphic designer and shirking responsibilities. Check out his website, for photography and more. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN th edition July 2011 ISBN Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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