KHOVSGOL TRAILS June 26th - July 14th 2018 (19 Days)

Transcription

1 KHOVSGOL TRAILS June 26th - July 14th 2018 (19 Days) All images used throughout this document were taken either by EL guests or members of the EL team. This is the Mongolia that you will also experience. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!1

2 Our Darkhad Trails In Brief Horses and Mongolia go together like bread and butter. Horses represent the spirit of Mongolia - even in the 21st Century and Mongolia is a country of great horse men and women. So what could be a better way of exploring Mongolia than on horse back? There s no prescribed routes. Just riding. As it should be. Out on the wild Mongolian steppe. This itinerary focuses on the remote northern region of Mongolia. You ll explore the wild landscapes and rural communities of two different locations within the area - Khovsgol Nuur National Park and the Darkhad Depression. Both are justifiably considered highlights of Mongolia but we ll show you a different side. A more local and human side to these remarkable areas. On two separate horse treks you ll be hosted and accompanied by herders from the two distinct regions that you ll be exploring. Our horse treks are different in that we leave the route entirely flexible and in the hands of your herder guide / horse wrangler as this leads to a more organic and Mongolian type of exploration. So many horse trekking experiences offered in Mongolia have rigid routes and itineraries and that just seems wrong in a country of such freedom. Instead, the focus becomes getting to meet and know the Mongolian herder guide / horse wrangler riding alongside them in the areas where they consider home. Experiencing one of the world s greatest horse cultures from horseback, in a land where horses are still central and essential to the herding way of life and to the life of your hosts. The trip finishes with the two-days rural Naadam in the small remote community of Renchinlumbe. Mongolia is a country of contrasts. It is not an easy option. It is a country that will challenge you. It is a tough country and the local people have learnt to adapt to this tough way of life. Adventure travel is always a bit unpredictable due to the nature of the terrain and the experiences we seek. Sometimes, the forces of nature or a change in the dates of a festival will require some changes in the plan. Flight schedules may change at a moments notice, or muddy ground may make a route impassable. But if you're willing to forego some of your creature comforts and pack your flexibility along with your thermals and suncream, then the rewards will be huge. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!2

3 Your Itinerary Overview Ulaanbaatar June 26th - final arrival day into UB City Walking Tour A more local introduction to this vibrant frontier style with our free city walking tour. Your own choice of accommodation Free transfer Local Lunch UB is home to roughly 45% of Mongolia s population and spending time on our informal and relaxed city walking tour will give you a contrasting insight into a way of life, compared to that of the rural population. This day is not about museums or shopping it s about getting out and about and exploring and discovering. Khovsgol Nuur National Park June 27th Fly Murun and Arrive Khatgal At Khatgal you will be hosted by the Basaanchuluu and his family. They are a family of young traditional malchin or herders who make their home in this small community at the southern edge of Khovsgol Nuur. A mattress on the floor of Bambakh s wooden house within his hasha - fenced compound typical to most families. Asian style long drop outside toilet. * Hot shower available at the local town shower house - your own private cubicle with plenty of hot water. Queue with the locals and enjoy experiencing a little of their daily way of life Up to one hour transfer time to Chinggis Airport then roughly 100km on asphalt and dirt road (approximately 3 hours driving time not including stops). Averages of between 30 and 65 km/hr are usual. * Flight Departure and Arrival Time TBC. Weight restriction 15kg (10kg check-in and 5kg hand luggage). Hand luggage officially restricted to 1- piece. Excess baggage charges are between $4- $7 per kilo depending on the route. Please note that the domestic airline may change the flight time schedule closer to the day of departure L/D Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!3

4 June 28th - July 1st Four Day Khovsgol Horse Trek Head out to pastures new. In the company of a modern day herder, enjoy the wilderness spaces of this glorious region including meeting other families that make their home in the region. Our treks are different in that we leave the route entirely flexible and in the hands of your herder guide / horse wrangler as this leads to a more organic and Mongolian type of exploration. So many trekking experiences offered in Mongolia have rigid routes and itineraries and that just seems wrong in a country of such freedom. Instead, the focus becomes getting to meet and know the Mongolian herder guide / horse wrangler in the areas where they consider home. But if you need a rough guide, the majority of the ride will be in the Khoridol Saridag Mountains - a 150 km long mountain range of primarily uplifted dolomite that runs between Khovsgol Nuur and the Darkhad Depression. The very barren, arid upland areas contrast with great beauty against the lower rich alpine meadows. Tent camp * UK VANGO tents. We also provide a kitchen tent and a toilet tent (well, a tent to cover the hole in the ground. I call it a loo with a view! ) It is difficult to describe a typical day, as they vary so much. Around six hours is about right for most people. Typically your herder guide will try to make camp no later than four in the afternoon. That gives you plenty of time to relax at the end of the day. If you haven't had enough riding by then, there is always the opportunity to ride out from camp in the evening. On a 'normal' day you would cover around 30-50km, depending on terrain. B/L/D Herders of the region typically move one or two times per year according to grazing conditions and weather cycles. You will be following part of the migration routes of this area. The log cabins and stock corrals you will come across may appear abandoned and overgrown but they are simply waiting for the return of winter occupants. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!4

5 Horse Trek Logistics The Horses The stars of the show! The horses themselves are a little like the herder guides / horse wranglers you would travel with - self-sufficient and tough. They're small - but strong and resilient. Ponies they are not. The Mongolian horse spends much of its year roaming in the hills in territorial, almost semi-wild herds. They're a joy to ride but just take a little time to understand their character. They're as much part of the experience as the trek itself. Support The trip is fully supported with an EL Mongolian team of (female) trip assistant and (male) driver. Our Russian Furgon 4x4 vans provide backup. Depending on the route, the equipment, provisions and luggage will either be transported by the EL van or a pack horse. If by pack horse, they are looked after by the herder trek guide - there is typically one pack horse for every 2 guest riders but the final decision is make by the herder trek guide. Equipment You will use Russian saddles (or a similar Mongolian version with felt saddle pads providing support and comfort under the saddle).these are provided by the herders themselves so will change in style from herder to herder. We don t import western style saddles as a) it s a faff and b) the horses aren t used to them. The stirrups have character - they ll be more basic than you re used to but have a wide step. The bridles are basically similar to what you might have used in the past. The herders look after the horses and help with saddling up, but you are welcome to help. For what to bring, we provide a detailed what to pack list on booking. Safety Bring a helmet with you - they ll be of a better standard than is currently available in Mongolia. Your trip assistant is trained in first aid and there s a basic medical kit provided. But, to a large degree you must be responsible for your own safety while riding. We provide safety guidelines for our riding trips with a few hints and tips on how to make the most of your Mongolian horse riding experience. Pace and Experience It is difficult to describe a typical day, as they vary so much. Around six hours is about right for most people. We like to make camp no later than four in the afternoon. That gives us plenty of time to relax at the end of the day. If you haven't had enough riding by then, there is always the opportunity to ride out from camp in the evening. On a 'normal' day you would cover around 30-50km, depending on terrain. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!5

6 July 2nd and 3rd Khovsgol Nuur National Park Khovsgol Nuur is known as Dalai Ej - Mother Sea to Mongolians. It is a spiritual place for Mongolians and its natural beauty makes it a stunning location to take a little time out. Khovsgol is 126km in length and represents roughly 70% of Mongolia s fresh water and is the younger sister to Lake Baikal in Siberia and part of the same Rift System. If the sky is clear, you can stand on the shoreline and see the snowcapped Sayan Mountains - the border with Siberia. It is truly spectacular. Tourist Ger Camp. Western style toilet and hot shower in separate block. The hot showers will probably be limited to certain times of the day Camping is prohibited alongside the lake shore. Yes, you'll see other people camping but it is illegal so we don t do it. A majority of western companies now use more exclusive luxury camps on the east shore. However, I like the west shore as with a bit of puff you can explore the Khoridol Saridag Mountains including the 2300m Chichee Uul with its remarkable view (top left). We only use Mongolian owned ger camps also as this means you often get to mix with Mongolian holiday makers who give you a different perspective. Dependent on where horse trek finishes. Maximum would be 45km on dirt road (approximately 1 hour driving time not including stops). Averages of between 30 and 65 km/hr are usual. B/L/D July 4th and 5th Ulaan Uul Ulaan Uul is a district of Khovsgol aimag located deep within the Darkhad Depression and on the border of the Khoridol Saridag Mountains. The depression is about 150 km long and 40 km wide, and is surrounded by high mountains. The depression receives water from many montane rivers and is thus rich in wetlands and lakes. These are surrounded by diverse habitats, including dry steppe, boreal forest (taiga) and alpine vegetation. The land is used as pasture for livestock. Narankhuu is a member of the Darkhad ethnic group and he will be your host - spend the next two nights at the summer herding pasture of Narankhuu and his family. Tent camp on first night and on second night tent camp next to family ger or basic private ger next to family ger (depending on availability). Asian style long-drop toilet and no shower Roughly 330km on asphalt and dirt road (approximatel 8-9 hours driving time not including stops). Averages of between 30 and 65 km/hr are usual. Don t be put off by the thought of all that time spent in a van - they ll be one of our great wild picnic stops enroute. This is what we call a connecting day as you travel from region to another. It's a long day but the contrasting landscapes are stunning. B/L/D You will have one free day here. On arrival, you can decide what you would like to do with the free day. You could take a short horse trek so you get used to the riding style of the Mongolian horses. Alternatively, spend the day relaxing and enjoying the rural way of life of Narankhuu and his family. Saridag Mountains. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!6

7 July 6th to 10th Five Days Tsaatan Horse Trek The Tsaatan (also known as Dukha) are Mongolia s smallest ethnic minority. There are two main areas where the Tsaatan community live and herd reindeer called the East and West Taiga. Though the regions are geographically distinct, the two groups share many kinship ties and are part of the same wider community. Narankhuu is intimately familiar with the routes, history, and people of the Taiga - he has been leading treks here for the whole of his adult life. The trek will be designed around your desire to witness and experience the lives, culture and traditions of the Tsaatan but the final route will depend on the location of the Tsaatan families. It might take one or two full riding days until you come to a Tsaatan camp. You are expected to remain flexible throughout the trek as conditions on the ground change from dayto-day and will impact on the route of the trek. Tent Camp, Tsaatan family ortz and (final night ) tent camp next to family ger or basic private ger next to family ger (depending on availability). Asian style longdrop toilet and no shower During the days you will spend in the taiga, your accommodation will be basic as the life of the Tsaatan is basic. We do not try to change the Tsaatan or their way of life for our own benefit or comfort. Reindeer herders live in canvas tents called ortz. You may sleep in a separate ortz provided by the family or you may sleep in the family home. In this circumstance, you will more than likely have to sleep on the floor on your Thermorest. You may find that you will only visit one family as your time will be limited. It also depends on the location of their summer pasture. It is difficult to describe a typical day, as they vary so much. Around six hours is about right for most people. Typically your herder guide will try to make camp no later than four in the afternoon. That gives you plenty of time to relax at the end of the day. If you haven't had enough riding by then, there is always the opportunity to ride out from camp in the evening. On a 'normal' day you would cover around 30-50km, depending on terrain. B/L/D * Includes traditional Mongolian barbecue Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!7

8 Eternal Landscapes Tsaatan Treks A major part of the philosophy that drives EL is to 'support local' - local culture, people, communities and environment. For our treks into the taiga we work with two distinct ethnic groups - the Darkhad and Tsaatan / Duka. By combining the itinerary like this, we get to spread our support further. Also, as a visitor, you get to experience two distinct ways of life. The Tsaatan community are supported through the TCVC - Tsaatan Community Visitors Centre based in Tsagaan Nuur. Although you will have a Darkhad guide, we make sure we follow the guidelines set out by the Tsaatan Community and Visitors Centre (TCVC) on how to make sure our visits to the Tsaatan community are of benefit to all. Between us we make sure that your visit to the Tsaatan benefits them financially but respectfully and culturally as well. The Tsaatan are strongly tribal and have a unique way of interacting with the outside world. As a result, we must be very delicate how we interact with them. We will work hard to make sure your visit is not considered intrusive by the Tsaatan into their private lives. The Tsaatan have encountered many westerners before. They are not an undiscovered tribe and you will not be the first or last person they have hosted. They are a modern people who have welcomed visitors from all over the world, and confront many of the same challenges as the rest of the modern world, including the need to earn an adequate income. In recent years, they have complained of feeling exploited for tourism purposes and they are starting to not cooperate with tourists if they feel taken advantage of. We will be working with a guide from the Darkhad tribe that knows most Tsaatan families intimately - everything you do will be led by him. The taiga is not a tourist camp but rather the home of an active, thriving community that wishes to sustain their way of life within a sensitive ecosystem. If your expectation is to be entertained or to have luxurious accommodations, the taiga is not the place for you. The Tsaatan have encountered many filmmakers, photographers and journalists and are savvy to the concept that many of these visits are designed to produce products that yield profits, publications, or public material of some kind. Some Tsaatan welcome participation in these kinds of projects while others are not interested. Most herders feel, understandably, that compensation is appropriate if the end-result is a profit-generating product. Before taking out your camera, you are asked to introduce yourself and and ask permission to take pictures. It is considered very rude to see a visitor riding into camp with their camera out, snapping pictures of people and reindeer as though the camp is a museum exhibit. In fact, building up a friendship with the family first works well. After you have introduced yourself, you still must ask permission from individuals when taking their picture or pictures of their animals. Please respect people s requests if they refuse to have their picture taken, particularly with regards to sensitive subject matter such as a shaman conducting a ritual. We rarely offer group trips to the Tsaatan as we feel this creates too much of an environmental and cultural impact. Typically we only offer one or two private trips per year. We pay a fair price for all accommodation provided by the Tsaatan. We do not ask the individual families to provide meals using their limited resources. Your trip assistant will prepare meals herself for you but we will share our food with the Tsaatan families. Any visits to a shaman are conducted only on days marked in the Mongolian Lunar Calendar when shamans would be conducting a ceremony. To do so outside of these days, would be a contrived experience. I understand that for a majority of visitors, making contact with the local people is an important element of their trip to Mongolia for a moment or two, crossing the cultural divide. However, the diversity of landscapes in Mongolia leads to the diversity of the way of life and so landscapes form a very important and relevant backdrop.the people of Mongolia are well-matched to the land they inhabit and by travelling through the diversity of Mongolia s landscapes,you can start to understand how the landscapes have helped to form the Mongolian personality - the sturdy individualism, their hardiness, endurance, self-sufficiency, tolerance and definitely their spirit of freedom. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!8

9 Accommodation En-route to and from the taiga, it will mainly be wild camping - we provide a kitchen tent, a toilet tent and VANGO tents. There are no single supplements - each traveller gets their OWN tent. During the days you will spend in the taiga, your accommodation will be basic as the life of the Tsaatan is basic. We do not try to change the Tsaatan or their way of life for our own benefit or comfort. Mongolia s eindeer herders live in canvas tents called ortz. You may sleep in a separate ortz provided by the family or you may sleep in the family home. In this circumstance, you will more than likely have to sleep on the floor on your Thermorest. There won t be hot showers and the toilets will be outside Asian style long drops. The ort will be insulated but you re probably used to an insulated house with central heating. There is a substantial difference. During the trek there will be no access to electricity (this is a pack-horse supported trek and the tour vehicle will wait back at Narankhuu s ger). You must bring either a solar charger or extra charged batteries. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!9

10 Riding It is difficult to describe a typical day, as they vary so much. How far you horse trek for on each day will depend on the location of the Tsaatan families. You can expect on average to trek anywhere from 1-8 hours depending on the distance of the camps, weather and trail conditions, as well as the pace set by your guide. Riding will be in open and wooded terrain, almost entirely at a walking pace due to the uneven ground underfoot. The movement of the herds and herders is determined by the seasonal availability of resources and weather. Typically, around mid-june, herding families move to summer camps at higher altitudes where there are open grasslands, fewer insects and cooler temperatures. In September, the families move to autumn pastures at lower altitudes, where young male reindeer, selected as riding or pack animals, are castrated before mating starts in late September/early October. You may find that you will only visit one family as your time will be limited. It also depends on the location of their pasture. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!10

11 July 11th and 12th Renchinlumbe Naadam Join the locals as they celebrate their Naadam Festival - mixing with the locals from the small town centre as well as with traditional Mongolian herders from outside the area. Be prepared for plenty of waiting around as well - although there are always plenty of side stalls to explore and enjoy. You will still overnight in the community of Renchinlumbe. Accommodation depends on what s available -although you will also have your tents with you. * A hot shower may be available at the local town shower house - your own private cubicle with plenty of hot water. Queue with the locals and enjoy experiencing a little of their daily way of life Approximately one hour travel time to Renchinlumbe. The road is dirt track and can be impacted by bad weather. B/L/D July 13th Murun There is only one road option from Ulaan Uul to Murun route so you will have to follow the same route out as you followed in. You will already understand road and the road conditions. Provincial Hotel with en-suite room Roughly 280km on asphalt and dirt road (approximately 8 hours driving time not including stops). Averages of between 30 and 65 km/hr are usual. B/L/D Murun is the lively capital town of Khovsgol Province which bears the hallmarks of being a trading outpost close to the border with Russian Siberia, in that it is slightly wild and rough around the edges. However, this adds to its charm and unique atmosphere especially the bustling market in the centre of town. Ulaan Baatar July 14th Return UB Accommodation of your choice in UB 20 mins transfer time to Murun Airport and Fly back to UB up to one hour where we ll transfer transfer time from you to your Chinggis Airport accommodation and the rest of the day will be yours to create your own experience. Remember you could use our UB guide to help you to explore the urban side of Mongolian life in downtown Ulaan Baatar. Alternatively, one of our trip assistants could be made available but please Written by Jess! - Eternal let me know Landscapes in 2017 Page!11 advance B

12 Map Of Region Map of Route Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!12

13 Pricing And Group Size For all of our small group trips I offer a sliding price scale. I appreciate your holiday funds are precious and so the more people that book so the price comes down and everyone benefits. Early booking discount of 15% off below price if the US$ 600 deposit is paid before January 31st Group Size - Maximum of six. Minimum of two required for a guaranteed departure 2 Guests US$ 4685 pp 3-4 Guests US$ 3865 pp 5 Guests US$ 3575 pp 6 Guests US$ 3120 pp Exclusions Please be aware that my trip pricing excludes the price of accommodation in UB though. Why? Everyone is different is the standard of accommodation they prefer at the start and end of a trip. As there is now such a variety of hotels in UB it is easier to exclude this cost. I provide a list of ideas covering varying standards and budgets and I can also help with booking. There's everything from a homestay through to Airbnb, US$10 guesthouses and the Shangri-La! Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!13

14 I provide detailed Pre Departure Guidelines but this is your quick (ish) glance introduction to the EL travel style. Why this section? I m not greedy. EL is not a general travel agency and we don t want to be all things to all people. We are an independent micro business driven by the philosophy to support local so that our style of trip is beneficial to all. We use no outside agencies. We are not perfect. We are just ordinary people trying our best to do something we love. We are not an everexpanding group of travel professionals. We make mistakes. But we genuinely know and love Mongolia and are willing and eager to learn, develop and strengthen based on feedback from our guests and from all we work with. If it helps, we get repeat custom. Female Mongolian trip assistant I am lucky enough to be in a position to run my own business and, as a female, it is important to me to use my skills and influence to improve the prospects for other women. However, we don t source the best guides that work the tourism circuit and that already have guaranteed work with other companies. Part of my business philosophy is to provide training and development opportunities to Mongolian women so instead, we provide opportunities to those that other companies won't take as they don't fit the stereotype or have the professional qualifications. My girls are dynamic young Mongolian women who are searching for an opportunity to train and develop - they re the future of Mongolia. Or, as some of them are teachers and lecturers, they re inspiring the future of Mongolia. If you want to discuss Mongolia s economic policy then we re probably not for you. But, if you want to spend time with someone who sincerely loves their home country, loves their job and genuinely care about you as our guests they we are for you. Yes, it may get frustrating for you at times but everyone needs to start somewhere and I m proud to be able to provide that starting block. Male Mongolian Driver I employ eight drivers. I know each one personally. They are not necessarily modern city men - they are of the traditional strong and silent type. If you take the time to get to know them, you ll see why I employ them. As well as handling the challenges of the Mongolian roads and making delicious Mongolian barbecues, they are supremely talented at the Mongolian skill of mongolchlokh - improvising the Mongol way. It s a joy to watch so if your vehicle does break down, don t get angry. Instead, watch the drivers do what they do best - improvisation. Yes, their English is limited but their role is to handle the Mongolian roads and not to converse fluently in a multitude of languages. They are great, all-round men. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!14

15 The Russian UAZ / Furgon It has a high wheel-base, ample luggage space, a sociable layout with forward and backward facing seats, surround side windows and most importantly, impressive off-road capability. As is typical with all Furgons, due to the design of the vehicle, seat-belts are not available (2017 although we re working on it for Get in touch for details) but our Furgons are fitted with grab handles in the passenger area. Each EL vehicle has it s own simple mobile kitchen, its own sunshade, a small library as well as a 220v inverter/charger. We only put a maximum of three to four EL guests per vehicle. City Nomads Folding Bike Each of our Furgon vans carries ONE City Nomads folding bike.this is a complimentary service Turuu and I have decided to offer. Using the help and knowledge of the Trek bike shop in UB, we opted for a folding bike as it fits well in the van. It is also more adaptable for a range of heights. They are not mountain bikes and not offered as such. It is just a way for you to take off for an hour or so to explore the local area independently and they provide a great way for our guests and the locals to mix and interact as we allow all to use them. Ger Accommodation As much as possible we use family operated ger camps. Rural families frequently offer accommodation as a way of supplementing their income and providing extra financial security for themselves. The circumstances and type of ger accommodation provided will change from family to family. Consider them as small rural businesses NOT rustic luxury homestays. Some accommodation is offered by herders (maybe one separate ger), some is offered by retired herders who no longer migrate (two to four separate gers), some by families that live in small town communities and some by families that own small ger camp businesses (mini ger camps of between 7 to 10 gers). On a couple of itineraries it may also involve sleeping on the floor of the family ger on a mat (such as in western Mongolia). Be prepared for a variety of standards. Please remember that his is someone s way of life and home and that they provide what they can in relation to their circumstances. Most will have one Asian style long-drop/squat toilet which is shared by all. No families have access to running water from a tap so throughout our trips, we make stops at the local town shower houses your own private cubicle with plenty of hot water. Beds will vary in comfort most rural family members still traditionally sleep on the floor so don t really understand the concept of double memory foam mattresses! The long drop toilets are not there to disgust you - this is what they use daily. You should have your own private ger either to share as an EL group (small group trip) or on your own (tailor made trip) but we don t offer exclusivity as this limits the income of the families so do expect other westerners during peak times. Tourist Ger Camps If requested and in some locations (such as Khovsgol), we do offer accommodation at the more typical ger camps. We don t book the most luxurious or the most exclusive. Instead, we choose the ones that we think work best for you and your style of trip as well as the locations you are visiting. There WILL be times during your journey when the availability of certain amenities at these ger camps may be lacking. The reasons for this can be varied low season; high season; electricity/generator problems; remote locations; the simple fact that some amenities are only catered for between certain times of the day. Examples of this could be a ger camp having a lack of hot water, or only having hot water at certain times. Lighting in the evening at some places may be by candle-light, and electricity may not be available. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!15

16 Local Hotels We don t use hotels in all itineraries - each one is different. Where we do use a hotel, it is locally owned - built for the passing Mongolian trade rather than for western visitors so they have been built with the local population in mind so they are not corporate chains. However, one or two will pleasantly surprise you. Why do we do this? It brings money and support into the local communities. As well as staying at the hotel we eat in local restaurants and buy our tour produce from the local market so you get a more real insight into the way of life for the locality. Camping Please check your itinerary to see if there is any camping. We use VANGO Hurricane or Nemesis tents. There is also always a kitchen tent and also a toilet tent. When camping, we do not camp too close to family gers as this intrudes on their privacy. However, local life is only a short walk away. If you like landscapes then you will love our campsites. If you are a solo traveller, we aim for you to have your own tent with no single supplement required. However, this is a free service so please understand it cannot be guaranteed. Meals Each of our vehicles has a simple portable kitchen as it offers you more freedom and flexibility as we re not reliant on anyone else to provide meals. It also means we can have picnic lunches en-route so as we prepare them you can be exploring the local landscapes or sitting and taking in the view. But, it s not the same as a modern well-equipped kitchen. Also, it s I and the trip assistants that prepare your meals and we re not professional chefs. We buy as much fresh produce as possible but fresh fruit is not available daily. Please remember where you are and that there will be limitations as to what we can provide. The meals we provide for you will not be a fusion of modern Asian-Western cuisine as promised by other companies cooked up by a private chef. We frequently include the families we work with in our meals and so cook to please all including the EL drivers who are traditional Mongolian men. I believe that getting a real taste for Mongolia means sampling the local cuisine (for those with dietary requirements don t panic!. We frequently cater for vegetarians and even vegans). This means you won t be getting bacon sandwiches or Thai curries or paella or Chinese stir fry. We just provide honest, heartening grub. Interaction / Meeting The Locals None of the Mongolians we work with are tourism professionals. Mongolians can be warm and welcoming and they can also be taciturn, reserved and very indifferent. We do not try to change Mongolians or their way of life for our/your own benefit or comfort. We don t ask them to change their daily schedule or to put on an act. The guidebooks mention the traditional hospitality of Mongolia s nomads, but they don t mention their daily workload and how this often means there is not time to welcome visiting guests with tea. Also, as in our everyday lives, sometimes plans change and a family has to go to UB (for a medical reason etc). We never ask a family to change their daily living for us. On your feedback, you will almost certainly comment that you will wish you had more interaction with nomadic families but their livestock and their family life must come first. Reverse the situation for a moment and think about the impact on your life if visitors wanted to document everything about you. I do understand that for our guests it s the interaction from spending time with Mongolian people that provides the most meaningful experience and frequently proves to be a highlight of a trip to Mongolia. But, I don t want to go down the route of asking families to change to accommodate our wishes as this would force a contrived experience. Yes, there will be tasks in which you can participate. But, you need to be proactive. Offer your time and help. Nothing is planned in any program, because we do not disturb the rhythm of life of the working families visited. We are just trying to share / experience a portion of their life. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!16

17 21st Century Mongolia Versus Guidebook Mongolia! Mongolia is frequently depicted as a pristine untouched wilderness where the traditional nomadic way of life still remains. Well. It is. And it isn t. Our trips focus on 21st Century Mongolia - we try to provide a realistic overview rather than that portrayed by guidebooks and other tour companies. To just want to experience the life of the traditional nomadic way of life is to ignore a majority of the population. Mongolians are not just divided between those who live in Ulaanbaatar and nomads. It's not just about the minority groups of the Kazakhs or the Tsaatan either. Mongolians live in the cities of Darkhan and Erdenet. They also live in the other provincial centres as well as the smaller town and rural communities. There are teachers and Christians and those with disabilities and policemen and musicians and military personnel and accountants and miners and geologists and drivers and shop owners and construction workers and street cleaners - they are all Mongolians. Mongolia s herders are under a lot of pressure. Yes, you want to experience their way of life but for them, their most important focus is looking after their livestock. The guidebooks mention the traditional hospitality of Mongolia s nomads, but they don t mention their daily workload and how this often means there is not time to welcome visiting guests with tea. Don t travel to Mongolia expecting to sit each evening discussing with your hosts about their way of life as nomads. It just won t happen. So. What do you do? Ditch your expectations based on what you ve read and watched. Instead come with an open mind and be challenged and surprised.the landscapes are immense and weathered and stark and remarkable. But you will be shocked by the amount of rubbish.yes, there is still a nomadic way of life. But herders have smartphones. The traditional culture still remains. But the literacy rate hovers around 97% (yes, 97%) and there is a drive for modernity and progress. But it is a country that will impact on you greatly. Of that there is no doubt. Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!17

18 There's a hunger for knowledge, understanding, and excellence that drives Mongolian society, and things are changing quickly, but remember that a lot of major changes have happened within just a couple generations. Be patient with Mongolia. While it works through the changes that are going to make it better place, savour the gifts it offers and try to spend less time worrying about small issues that aren't being met - such as hot showers or lack of western toilets. Remember, Mongolians are living this life everyday through all seasons not just for a few weeks. Mongolians are tough people and make living in their country look easy. But, Mongolia is not an easy option tourism is still in its infancy so there is only a rudimentary tourist infrastructure in place. It s actually quite refreshing but will be challenging for you. As Jack Weatherford writes in Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World Compared to the difficulty of daily life for the herders, living permanently in those areas, ours were only the smallest of irritations. Any questions, queries or concerns? Just send them across to me at jess@eternallandscapes.co.uk. I am always happy to be of help! Jess Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2017 Page!18