Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

Transcription

1 302 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Rachael Clapson, Sarah Desabrais, Kieran Drake, Alexandru Dumitru, Nelli Engel, Noreen Francis, Jana Frolen, Rachel Godley, Ask Gudmundsen, Mark Hohenberg, David Hunt, Clive Johnson, Cale Lawlor, Paul Liu, Wojciech Maciolek, Alexandre Muller, Patrick Phillips, Alexandra Röllin Odermatt, Gayle Singh, Tony James Slater, Kate Williams, Han Wong, Hong Youngjoo, Cindy Zhi AUTHOR THANKS Michael Kohn Many thanks to my coauthors Anna and Daniel, editors Angela, Suzannah and Brigitte, and cartographer David. In Ulaanbaatar, special thanks to Toroo, Daniel, Cliffe, Lhagva, Khongorzul, Nomin, Marc, Jan, Goyo, Olly and Mogi, plus all the taxi drivers and bus drivers who got me around the city. Mostly, thanks to Lallie for all her support and companionship during the project. Anna Kaminski A huge thank you to Suzannah for entrusting me with this project, to fellow authors Michael Kohn and Daniel McCrohan for all the advice and encouragement, and to the rest of the Lonely Planet team for all the hard work. Boss Lady would also like to thank Khongor Guesthouse and Boojum for sorting out the logistics, Pikhekh and Mishig the drivers, Mandakh the tireless interpreter, Kurt for the cheerful company, Zaya for the Tsaatan knowledge, as well as Jonathan, Michelle, Tobias and Honza, Ganbaa, Amar and everyone else who helped me. Daniel McCrohan My biggest thanks this time goes to my Uncle David, who travelled with me for almost half of this research trip. I couldn t have wished for a better companion. Special thanks to Michael Kohn for all his help and support, to map maestro David Kemp, and to stellar editing duo Brigitte Ellemor and Suzannah Shwer (you guys will be missed!). Thanks too to Murray (Tsetserleg); Tunga (Tariat); Nazka, Dosjan and Canat (Ölgii); Marima (Khovd); Tuya (Uliastai); and Goyo Travel (the Gobi). Love, as always, to my family in the UK. And to Taotao and the kids: wo ai nimen.

2 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: A ger in northern Mongolia, Gavriel Jecan/Getty. 303 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet s Mongolia guidebook was researched and written by Michael Kohn, Anna Kaminski and Daniel McCrohan. The History chapter was written by Jack Weatherford and Dulmaa Enkhchuluun. The 6th edition was written by Michael Kohn and Dean Starnes; Michael Kohn wrote the 4th and 5th editions. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Suzannah Shwer Coordinating Editors Carolyn Boicos, Monique Perrin Senior Cartographer David Kemp Senior Editors Catherine Naghten, Karyn Noble Managing Editors Brigitte Ellemor, Angela Tinson Assisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Ross Taylor Book Designer Katherine Marsh Cover Research Naomi Parker Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Anna Harris, Genesys India, Jouve India, Indra Kilfoyle, Baigalmaa Kohn, Wayne Murphy, Chad Parkhill, Trent Paton, Martine Power, Dianne Schallmeiner, John Taufa, Juan Winata

3 304 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A accommodation 266-8, see also individual locations gers 9, 250-2, 266-7, 9 language 296 Achit Nuur 227 activities 20, 21, 22, 28-34, 248, see also individual activities aimag museums, see museums & galleries air pollution 64, 264 air travel , 286 airag 256, 14 alcoholism 273 Altai 203-5, 203 Altai Eagle Festival 22, 213, 21 Altai Horse Games Altai Tavan Bogd National Park Altanbulag 133 Altan-Ölgii Uul 106 Amarbayasgalant Khiid 136-8, 137, 19 amusement parks 66 Andrews, Roy Chapman 198 animals 12, 18, 261-3, see also individual animals ankle-bone games 51, 72, 248 Aral Tolgoi 214 archaeology 123, 237 archery 51 area codes 274 argali sheep Arkhangai art galleries, see museums & galleries Arvaikheer , 112 Asral & Kunchab Jampa Ling Buddhist Centre 72 ATMs 271 Avarga Toson Nuur 167 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 B Bactrian camels 185, 205, 19, 25 Baga Gazryn Chuluu Baga Gazryn Uul 183 Bairam Davaa 225 balbals Altai Tavan Bogd National Park 215 Bairam Davaa 225 Bayannuur 217 Bohmörön 225 Chinggis Khot 163 Dariganga 176 Khun Chuluu 204 Mogoit Valley 215 Nalaikh 104 Zagastain Davaa 231 Baldan Baraivun Khiid 165 Barga people 259 Baruun-Urt Bat-Erdene, B 51 bathhouses 183 bathrooms 275 Batshireet 166 Bayad people 259 Bayan Nuur 217 Bayan Öndör 140 Bayangiin Nuruu 201 Bayangovi Bayankhongor Bayankhongor City , 200 Bayan-Ölgii Bayanzag 197-8, 25 Bayanzürkh Uul 189 Bayarsaikhan, Jamsranjav 123 Baytolda 213 bears 262 Beatles Square 67 bedbugs 295 bee stings 295 beer 256 bicycle travel, see cycling Biger 204 Binder 166 birds 262 birdwatching 34 Achit Nuur 227 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 201 Gurvan Saikhan National Park 193 Park 148 Khyargas Nuur National Park 228 Ögii Nuur 126 Sangiin Dalai Nuur 184 Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area 225 Blue Valley Awards Festival 156 boat travel 286, see also kayaking, rafting boat trips Park 151 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 127 Bogd Khan 69, 241-2, 243, 253 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area books 234 health history 241 religion 255 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 201 border crossings to/from China to/from Kazakhstan 284 to/from Russia Bornuur 109 Borsog 149 bowling 71 brucellosis 294 bubonic plague 294 Buddhism 253, 254, 255 courses 71-2 Buddhist medicine 69 budget 17 Bugiin Tsav 201 Buir Nuur 172 Bulgan Bulgan Camel Festival 20, 197 Bulgan City 141-3, 142 Bulgan-Takashiken bording crossing 281 burial mounds Altai Tavan Bogd National Park 215 Bairam Davaa 225 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve 190 Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Protected Area 231 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 159 Tsenkheriin Agui 222 Zagastain Davaa 231 Buriat people 259 Burkhan Khalduun 168 bus travel 285, 287, 290 business hours 272 C camels 185, 205, 19, 25 riding 30, 32, 195, 287 festivals 20, 197 camping 29-30, 31 canoeing 33-4 car travel 40-5 driving licences 44 fuel 42 GPS & coordinates 287, insurance 45 jeep travel 281-2, navigation 43 rallies 44 repairs & maintenance 42-3 road conditions 40 road distance chart 43 road rules 44 to/from China 281 to/from Russia 285 vehicle hire & purchase 41-2

4 305 cave paintings, see petroglyphs caves Dayan Derkhiin Agui 155 Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve 205 Eej (Mother) Cave 165 Ikh Agui 230 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu 186 Taliin Agui 178 Tsagaan Agui 201 Tsenkheriin Agui 222 Usan Bolortiin Agui cell phones 274 central Mongolia 53, , climate & travel seasons 98 highlights 100 history 99 travel to/from 99 travel within 99 Centre of Shaman Eternal Heavenly Sophistication 68-9 ceremonies & rituals 247, 248, 249 Chandmani 221 Chandman-Öndör 154 children, travel with 268 Chinggis Khaan 13, 162, 166, 168, 236, 238, birthday celebration 22, 73 books 241 statues & monuments 59, 104, 167, 239, 13, 237 Chinggis Khaan Square 58-9 Chinggis Khot 162-5, 163 Choibalsan , 170 Choijin Lama Temple Museum 65 Christianity 255 Chuluunkhoroot 173 Chuluut Gur 126 circus performances 86 clan names 258 climate 16, 20, 21, 22, 261, see also individual regions communism 131, 243, 245, 254, 258 consulates 269, 282 costs 17, 267, 269, 272 courses 71-2 cranes 262, 264 credit cards culture 235, currency 271 customs regulations 268 cycling 32-3, 96, 125, 286, see also mountain biking Cyrillic D Dadal Dalanzadgad 191-3, 192 dangers, see safety Dariganga Dariganga people 259 Darkhad Depression Darkhad people 259 Darkhan 134-6, 135 Dashinchilen 143 Dayan Uul 231 deer stones 145 Baldan Baraivun Khiid 165 Erdeneburen 217 Khannui Valley 123 Khovd City 218 Uushigiin Uver 146 Delgerkhan 167 digital photography 272 dinosaur fossils 14, 66, 197, 198, 201, 14 disabilities, travellers with 275 dog sledding 34 dogs 273 Dörgön 220 Dörgön Nuur 221 Dornod Dornogov Dörvöd people 259 drinks 14, 256, 298 driving, see car travel Dugany Am 194 Dulaankhaan 133 Dundgov dunes, see sand dunes Dzavakhan, see Zavkhan E eagle festivals 22, , 213, 217, 21 eagle hunting 14, 213, 217, 15 tours 210, 215 eastern Mongolia 54, , 161 climate & travel seasons 160, 162 highlights 161 history 162 travel to/from 162 travel within 162 economy 234, 235 Eej Mod 132 Ekhiin Gol 202 electricity 269 Elsen-Tasarkhai 122 embassies 269 emergencies 17, 299 environmental issues animal poaching 176 air pollution 64, 264 conservation 260 endangered species 262 Erdene Zuu Khiid , 2, 15, 240 Erdenebulgan 155 Erdeneburen 217 Erdenedalai 184 Erdenet , 139 Ereen Nuur 230 Èrlián 282 etiquette gers 251 food 257 photography 272 events 20-2, 257 exchange rates 17 F falcons 262 fashion shows 86 festivals 20-2, 257 films 234 fish fishing 33, 38 Dadal 168 Park 149 Ögii Nuur 126 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 127 Üüreg Nuur 226 Flaming Cliffs 197-8, 25 food 14, 256-7, see also individual locations costs 269 etiquette 257 language fossils 14, 66, 197, 198, 201, 14 G Gachuurt galleries, see museums & galleries Galuut Canyon 201 Gandan Khiid 67-8, 13 Ganga Nuur Gangin Gol 123 gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers 86, gazelle 176 Gelenkhuugiin Suvraga Genden, P 245 Genghis Khan, see Chinggis Khaan geography & geology 260 gers 9, 250-2, 266-7, 9 goats 216 Gobi, the 11, 54, , 180, 3, 10 climate & travel seasons 179 highlights 180 travel to/from 181 travel within 181 golf 107 Gov-Altai GPS 287 coordinates table Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area 205 guides 37-8 Gunii Khöndii Gorge 201 Günjiin Süm Gurvan Saikhan National Park H health heatstroke 295 Hentiy, see Khentii hepatitis 294 hiking & trekking 12, 18, 29 Batshireet 166 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area Dadal Gangin Gol 123 Kharkhiraa Uul & Türgen Uul Khoton Nuur to Tavan Bogd 215 Park Khövsgöl to Darkhad 150 Khuiten Uul 214 Khustain National Park 111 Nomgon Mountain 199 Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Protected Area 231 Tarialan to Khotgor Terelj area INDEX C - H

5 306 INDEX H - M history , see also individual regions Battle of Khalkhiin Gol 174 books 241 Chinggis Khaan 13, 162, 166, 168, 236, 238, Hun empire 237 Karakorum 99, , 116, 117 Kublai Khan Mongol empire Soviet era Turkic era warrior queens 242 WWII 245 hitching 287, 290 holidays 273 horse branding 248 horse mounds 123 horse racing 50-1, horse riding & trekking 11, 30, 32, 10, 31 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area 103 Dadal Gachuurt 109 Kharkhorin 117 Park Khövsgöl to Darkhad 150 Khustain National Park 111 Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Protected Area 231 Tariat 127 Terelj area 107 Uliastai 229 horses 110, 205, 247, 261, 262 hot springs, see also mineral springs Bulnai Khalun Us Rashant 168 Rashany Ikh Uul 215 Tsenkher Yestii Hövsgöl, see Khövsgöl Hunnu people 237 hypothermia 295 I ice skating 34 Ikh Bogd Uul 201 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu Ikh Khairkhan Nuruu 230 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu immigration 279 immunisations 293 insurance car 45 health 292 travel 270 internet access 270 internet resources food 257 health 293 planning 17 Islam itineraries 23-7 J Jankhai 148 Jargalant 159 Jargalant Khairkhan Uul 221 Javkhlant Tolgoi 229 Jebtzun Damba 69, 241-2, 253 jeep travel, see car travel Jiglegiin Am 148 K Karakorum 99, , 116, 117, see also Kharkhorin kayaking 33-4, 151 Kazakh people 215 Khagiin Khar Nuur 106 Khalkh people 259 Khalkhiin Gol Khankh 149 Khannui Valley 123 Khar Balgas 119 Khar Bukh Balgas 143 Khar Nuur (Khovd) Khar Nuur (Zavkhan) 230 Khar Us 148 Khar Us Nuur National Park Kharkhiraa Uul Kharkhorin , 114 Khatanbaatar Magsarjav Mausoleum 142 Khatgal 148 Khatgal Ice Festival 20, 151 Khentii Kherlen Bar Khot Khermen Tsav 201 Khetsuu Khad 228 Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Reserve Khökh Nuur (Dornod) 173 Khökh Nuur (Khentii) 165 Khökh Nuur (Uvs) 227 Khomyn Tal 221 Khongoryn Els 195, 10 khöömii 85, 213, 221 Khorgo Uul 127 Khotgor 225 Khoton Nuur Khovd Khovd City , 219 Khövsgöl Khövsgöl Nuur 13, 147-8, 13 Park , 148 Khuiten Uul 214 Khurgan Nuur 215 Khustain National Park Kublai Khan L Lake Baikal 285 lakes 260-1, see also individual lakes language legal matters 270 leopards 262 lesbian travellers 86, lice 295 M Malchin Peak 214 Mandalgov 181-3, 182 Mandshir Khiid 102 Manduhai the Wise Queen 242 maps 91, Marra valley 217 measures 268 medical services 294 meditation 72, 106 mineral springs, see also hot springs Avarga Toson Mineral Spring 167 Baga Gazryn Uul 183 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve 190 Khajuu Bulag 167 Ulaan Uulyn Rashaan 223 minibus travel 290 mining 139, 234, 240, 260, 264 minivan travel 290 mobile phones 274 Modon Huys 151 Mogoi Mod 148 Moltsog Els 177 Moltzog Els 197 monasteries & temples 15, 18 Amarbayasgalant Khiid 136-8, 137, 19 Amarbuyant Khiid 202 Amgalan Süm 65 Badma Ega Datsan 69 Bakula Rinpoche Süm 69 Baldan Baraivun Khiid 165 Bari Lam Khiid 185 Buyandelgerüülekh Khiid 123 Danrig Danjaalin Khiid 170 Danzandarjaa Khiid 144 Dashchoilon Khiid 67 Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid 142 Dashgimpeliin Khiid 181 Dayan Derkh Monastery 155 Dechinravjaalin Khiid 223 Delgeriin Choiriin Khiid 183 Erdene Zuu Khiid , 2, 15, 240 Erdenemandal Khiid 174 Erdiin Khambiin Khiid 121 Galdan Zuu 122 Gandan Khiid 67-8, 13 Gandan Muntsaglan Khiid 112 Gandan Puntsag Choilon Khiid 218 Gimpil Darjaalan Khiid 184 Günjiin Süm Jargalantiin Dugan 159 Khamaryn Khiid 189 Kharaagiin Khiid 134 Khoshuu Khuralin Khiid 185 Khutagt Ekh Datsan 132 Khutagt Lam Khiid 185 Lamyn Gegeenii Gon Gandan Dedlin Khiid 199 Maharaja Süm 65 Mandshir Khiid 102 Ongiin Khiid 185 Övgön Khiid 121 Ovoon Khiid 176 Shadavdarjaliin Khiid 163 Shankh Khiid 117 Süm Khökh Burd 184 Tögs Buyant Javkhlant Khiid 229 Tövkhön Khiid Tsorjiin Khureenii Khiid 183

6 307 Yadam Süm 65 Zuu Süm 65 money 16, 17, 268-9, Mongol & Mongolian people 239 Mongol Els 122 Mongol empire Mongol Rally 44 Mongolia Charity Rally 44 Mongolian language Mönkh Khairkhan Uul monuments & statues Alan Goa 154 Beatles 67 Bilge Khagan 120 Chinggis Khaan (Tsonjin Boldog) 104, 13 Chinggis Khaan (Ulaanbaatar) 59 Chinggis Khaan obelisk (Delgerkhaan) 167 Chingunjav 144 Deluun Boldog 166 Friendship Monument Ikh Burkhant 173 Kul-Teginii 120 Mongolian Heroes Memorial 170 Morin Khuur Statue & Seated Buddha 134 stone turtles 117 Stupa Memorial 167 Sükhbaatar 58 Tonyukok 104 Toroi-Bandi 177 Yakovlev Сhuudiin Tank Khoshuu 172 Yalaltiin Khoshuu Zaisan Memorial 70 Mörön 143-7, 144 motorcycle travel 40-5, 281, 285 mountain biking Mongolia Bike Challenge 22 Terelj area 106 Ulaanbaatar 69 mountaineering 34 mountains 260, see also individual mountains Mukhar Shiveert 194 Munkhbayar, Tsetsegee 260 museums & galleries 976 Gallery 68 (Altai) 203 (Altanbulag) 133 (Arvaikheer) 112 (Bayankhongor City) 199 (Bulgan City) 141 (Chinggis Khot) 163 (Khovd City) 218 (Mandalgov) 181 (Ölgii) 210 (Sainshand) 187 (Ulaangom) 223 (Zuunmod) 99 & Gallery (Choibalsan) 169 Alan Goa Museum 154 Bornuur museum 109 Choijin Lama Temple Museum 65 Dadal Museum 167 Ethnography Museum (Baruun-Urt) 174 Ethnography Museum (Chinggis Khot) 163 History Museum Hunting Museum 167 International Intellectual Museum 70-1 Karakorum Museum Khalkhiin Gol museum 173 Khövsgöl (Mörön) 144 Mongol Costumes Centre 65 Mongolian Artists Exhibition Hall 66 Mongolian National Modern Art Gallery 66 Mongolian Statehood History Museum 59 Museum of Arkhangai Aimag 122 Museum of Danzan Ravjaa 187 Museum of Darkhan-Uul 134 Museum of Famous People 229 Museum of Natural History 64 Museum of Orkhon Aimag 139 Museum of the West Road Military Unit 142 National Museum of Mongolia 59, 64 Natural History Museum (Bayankhongor City) 199 Natural History Museum (Choibalsan) 169 Red Ger Art Gallery 67 South Gobi Museum 191 Theatre Museum 66 Ulaanbaatar City Museum 71 Victims of Political Persecution Memorial Museum 65-6 Wildlife Museum 69 Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan 69-70, 25 Zanabazar Memorial Museum 112 Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts 64-5 music 85, 86 N naadam 9, 22, 50-2, 257, 2, 8-9 Chandman-Öndör 154 Dadal 168 Khatgal 151 Renchinlkhumbe 156 Ulaanbaatar 51-2, 72, 21 Naiman Nuur 118 Nalaikh 104 Namarjin valley 217 National Garden Park 68 National Library of Mongolia 67 National Museum of Mongolia 59, 64 national parks & reserves 261, 263 Alag Khairkhan Nature Reserve 202 Altai Tavan Bogd National Park Altan Els Strictly Protected Area 226 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area Bulgan Gol Nature Reserve 222 Develiin Aral Nature Reserve 210, 225 Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected Area 175 Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve 205 Ergeliin Zuu 188 Ganga Nuur Nature Reserve 175 Gorkhi-Terelj National Park 105 Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area 205 Gurvan Saikhan National Park Ikh Gazryn Chuluu Nature Reserve 186 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area 106 Khan Khökhii National Park 226 Khangai Nuruu National Park 119 Khar Us Nuur National Park Khasagt Khairkhan Strictly Protected Area 202 Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Reserve Khökh Serkh Strictly Protected Area 210, 222 Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur National Park 126 Park , 148 Khuisiin Naiman Nuur Nature Reserve 118 Khustain National Park Khyargas Nuur National Park 228 Lkhachinvandad Uul Nature Reserve 175 Mankhan Nature Reserve 222 Mongol Daguur A Strictly Protected Area 172 Mongol Daguur B Strictly Protected Area 172, 173 Mönkh Khairkhan National Park Nömrög Strictly Protected Area 172 Onon-Balj National Park 166 Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Protected Area 231 Sharga Nature Reserve 202 INDEX M - N

7 308 INDEX N -T Siilkhem Nuruu National Park 210 Small Gobi A Strictly Protected Area 191 Tes River Reserve 226 Toson Khulstai Nature Reserve 172 Tsambagarav Uul National Park 217 Ugtam Uul Nature Reserve 173 Uran-Togoo Tulga Uul Nature Reserve 140 Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area 225 Zagiin Us Nature Reserve 184 Naushki 284 newspapers 91, 268 nomadism northern Mongolia 54, , 130 accommodation 129 climate & travel seasons 129 highlights 130 history 131 travel to/from 131 travel within 131 Noyon Uul 237 O Ögedei Khaan 256 Ögii Nuur 126 Öglögchiin Kherem Ölgii , 209 Ömnögov Öndörkhaan 162-5, 163 Ongiin Khiid opening hours 272 organised tours 35-9 Orkhon Khürkhree 120 Orokhiin Davaa 159 Otgon 231 Otgon Tenger Uul 231 Övgön Khiid 121 ovoos 254 Altan 176 Amarbuyant Khiid 202 Avarga Toson Nuur 167 Baga Gazryn Uul 183 Bayanzürkh Uul 189 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area 103 Burkhan Khalduun 168 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Darkhad Depression 156 Deluun Boldog 166 Ikh Santiin Davaa 149 Khamaryn Khiid 189 Park 148 Nomgon Mountain 199 Öglögchiin Kherem 166 Shadavdarjaliin Khiid 163 Shiliin Bogd Uul 177 Taikhar Chuluu 126 Tasgany Ovoo 69 Ulaan Davaa 225 Zagastain Davaa 231 Övörkhangai Oyu Tolgoi 234, 264 P parks & gardens Khövsgöl Park 144 National Garden Park 68 Shuteen Park 203 Tree Nursery 181 Parliament House 59 passports 279, see also visas petroglyphs Baga Gazryn Chuluu 183 Bayangiin Nuruu 201 Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve 205 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve 190 Khavtsgait 194 Mandshir Khiid 102 Rashaan Khad 166 Sevrei 201 Sheveed Uul 214 Tsagaan Sala 214 Tsenkheriin Agui 222 phonecards 274 photography 272 pikas 195 planning, see also individual regions activities budgeting 17, 267, 269, 272 calendar of events 20-2 car & motorcycle travel 40-5 internet resources 17 itineraries 23-7 Mongolia basics Mongolia s regions 53-4 naadam 50-2 organised tours 35-9 Trans-Mongolian Railway travel 46-9, 48 travel seasons 16, 20, 21, 22 plants 263 poaching 176 politics pollution 64, 264 population 235 postal services Potanii glacier 214 protected areas, see national parks & reserves Przewalski s horse 110, 205, 261, 262 public holidays 273 Q quarantine R rabies radio 268 rafting 33-4, 107 rail travel, see train travel rallies 44 Ravjaa, Danzan 186, 187, 189 registration 59, 275, 277 religion 235, Renchinlkhumbe 156 renewable energy 264 rituals, see ceremonies & rituals road distance chart 43 rock climbing 105, 186 rock paintings, see petroglyphs S safety 90, 273-4, 287 Sagsai 213 Sainshand 187-8, 187 sand dunes Khongoryn Els 195, 10 Moltsog Els 177 Moltzog Els 197 Mongol Els 122 Sangiin Dalai Nuur 184 Sangiin Kherem 218 Sansar 70-1, 70 satellite phones 274 Saxon miners 240 scams 273 Selenge shamanism 68-9, 156, Shambhala 189 shared vehicles 290 sheep Shiliin Bogd Uul 177 skating 34 skiing 34, 71 sky burials 247 smoking 82, 268 snakes 295 snow leopards 262 Stalin, Joseph 245 statues, see monuments & statues Sükhbaatar 132-3, 132 Sükhbaatar (aimag) Sükhbaatar Square 58-9 Süm Khökh Burd 184 T Taikhar Chuluu 126 takhi 110, 205, 261, 262 Takhiin Tal Research Station 205 Tarialan 226 Tariat 126-8, 127 Tavan Bogd 214 tea 256 telephone services 274 temples, see monasteries & temples Terelj area 105-9, 105 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 126 theatre 84-5, 188 theft 90, 273 throat singing 85, 213, 221 time 275 tipping 272 toilets 275 Tolbo Nuur 217 Torguud people 259 Tosontsengel tourist information 275 tours 35-9 Töv Tövkhön Khiid train travel 46-9, 282-4, 285-6, 291 translators 37-8 Trans-Manchurian Railway 46 Trans-Mongolian Railway 46-9, 48 Trans-Siberian Railway 46 travel to/from China 190, 218, Kazakhstan 212, 284 Mongolia Russia 212, 284-6

8 309 travel within Mongolia tree-planting nurseries 181 trekking, see hiking & trekking tribal groups Tsaatan people 155, 156-7, 158, 259 Tsagaan Bulag 201 Tsagaan Sar 20, 257 Tsagaan Shuvuut Uul 226 Tsagaannuur 156 Tsagaan-Uur 155 Tsambagarav Uul National Park 217 Tsast Uul 217 tsatsal 247 Tsengel Tsenkher Hot Springs Tsenkheriin Agui Tserendavaa 221 Tsetserleg 122-5, 124 Tsogt Taijiin Tsagaan Balgas 143 tuberculosis 295 Türgen Uul Turkic era Tuvan people 259 TV 268 U Ulaan Tolgoi 214 Ulaanbaatar 13, 53, 56-97, 57, 60-1, 70 accommodation 56, 73-7 activities 71 climate 56 courses 71-2 drinking & nightlife 82-4 emergency services 90 entertainment 84-7 festivals & events 51-2, 72-3 food 56, highlights 57 history 58 internet access 90-1 itineraries 58 medical services 91 permits 91 safety 90 shopping 87-9 sights tourist offices 92 travel seasons 56 travel to/from 92-5 travel within 95-7 Ulaangom 223-5, 224 Uliastai , 229 Ungern-Sternberg, Baron Roman Nikolaus Fyodirovich von 244 urbanisation 249 Uriankhai people 259 Üüreg Nuur 226 Uushigiin Uver 146 Uvs Uvs Nuur 225 Uvsiin Khar Us Nuur 227 Uzemchin people 259 V vacations 273 vaccinations 293 vehicle repairs 42-3 visas China 276 Kazakhstan 276 Mongolia 59, 275, Russia 276 vodka 256, 257 volcanoes Khorgo Uul 127 Shiliin Bogd Uul 177 volunteering 111, 278 W Wall of Chinggis Khaan 173 walking, see hiking & trekking warrior queens 242 wasp stings 295 water 295 weather 16, 20, 21, 22, 261, see also individual regions websites, see internet resources Wedding Palace 66 weights 268 western Mongolia 54, , 207 climate & travel seasons 206 highlights 207 history 208 travel to/from 208 travel within 208 wild horses, see takhi wildlife 12, 18, 260, 261-3, see also individual species Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan 69-70, 25 wolves 262 women in Mongolia 249 women travellers 278 work 278 wrestling 51, 86 Y yak travel 287 Yamaat Valley 225 Yargaitin Ekh Uul 221 Yasnee Tsav 201 Yestii Hot Water Springs yoga 72 Yolyn Am yurts 9, 250-2, 266-7, 9 Z Zagastain Davaa 231 Zamyn-Üüd Zamyn-Üüd Èrlián (Ereen) border crossing 281 Zanabazar 64-5, 112, 119, 138 Zavkhan zud 261 Zuun Nuur 158 Zuunmod 99, 102 INDEX T-Z

9 310 NOTES

10 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

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