Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam Handbook

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1 Sponsored by Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam Handbook American Mountain Guides Association

2 AMERICAN M OUNTAIN GUIDES ASSOCIATION Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam Handbook Published by: American Mountain Guides Association PO Box 1739 Boulder, Colorado (303) (303) fax info@amga.com Acknowledgments This manual is the product of the volunteer work, assistance and advice of many AMGA guides and program instructors. Most importantly, the AMGA thanks those course participants, past and present, who have supported professional guides training. Design and production by Alain Comeau Cover photo by Mark Houston Revision: 2010 Copyright 2007 AMGA No part of this manual may be reproduced for any purpose without express written permission from the AMGA and contributing authors.

Contents Introductions...1 Overview of exam process...1 Route assignments...1 Managing stress, the right answer...2 Daily debrief s...2 Preparation...2 Exam scoring...3 The marking scale.

3 Contents Introductions...1 Overview of exam process...1 Route assignments...1 Managing stress, the right answer...2 Daily debrief s...2 Preparation...2 Exam scoring...3 The marking scale...3 Interpretation of marks...4 Assessment categories...5 Information for the Ski Mountaineering Aspirant...6 Notice of irrivocable failure...6 Appeals...6 Equipment List...8 Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification...10 Documentation...10 Assessment Drills...11 Avalanche transceiver search...11 Rescue sled lowering...12 Bivouac construction...12 photo courtesy Mark and Kathy Houston

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES ASSOCIATION General Exam Information Introduction The primary goal of the Certification Exam is to assess climbing and ski guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international

4 AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES ASSOCIATION General Exam Information Introduction The primary goal of the Certification Exam is to assess climbing and ski guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards. A secondary goal is the education of exam candidates. Certified guides are expected to offer clients a high level of client rewards in a variety of environments while effectively managing risk. Overview of the Exam Process During the exam you will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given to you by the examiners. Candidates will serve as guides to the examiners and to other candidates on routes or tours chosen for their complex guiding challenges. In general your duties as guide will include route planning, client orientation, camp craft (for Alpine and Ski), as well as normal guiding and risk management duties in the course of the climb or tour. The final day will include a personal debrief and exam evaluation. Route Assignments Route or tour assignments will usually be given the night before. You will be responsible for obtaining information regarding the assigned route and possible alternatives should the original objective prove infeasible. Client profiles will also be explained the night before the start of the exam. As much as possible routes will be chosen to give the candidate the opportunity to demonstrate their judgment and competence in challenging terrain, as well as give the examiner an insight into the candidates thought processes while guiding. You will be asked to solve guiding problems given to you by the examiner. They may have to be created or contrived (e.g. let s rappel the route) but whenever possible routes will be chosen to create challenges. Because there is only a short period of time in which to assess many skills you may find a greater number of challenging situations than in a normal guiding day. Page 1

5 Managing Stress The better you manage the stress of the exam the better you will perform. There are a number of strategies you might wish to employ to aid you. Be confident. Guide as you normally would and not as you might think the examiner would like. Maintain a positive mental attitude toward the exam. Be sure you thoroughly understand your daily assignment. Come prepared. During debriefs listen carefully to the comments of the examiner even if you do not agree with all of them. The Right Answer There are no right answers. Trying to figure out what answer the examiners want to hear or see will only confuse you. There are no right answers in guiding, only options. Do your best to create and choose the option or options that best suit the situation. Daily Debriefs At the end of each day the examiners will meet with each candidate individually to discuss their performance for that day. The goal of this session is to help the candidates improve performance. Specific exam scores will not be discussed. This is necessary, as often examiners need time to reflect on the day as a whole, or to consult with other examiners. Preparation Preparation is critical to a successful exam. Prepare yourself physically and mentally. Be sure your equipment is appropriate, adequate and in good condition. Learn as much as you can about the area and local climbing or skiing conditions. Study guidebooks and maps of the exam areas (described in the itinerary and logistics sheets). Consult local guides regarding likely exam routes. Confer frequently we other examinees who might have information on your assigned routes. The rescue portions of the exam should be practiced and by the time the examination occurs should be a routine exercise. Professionalism Throughout the Exam process candidates are expected to demonstrate and uphold a professional standard; client care, attitude, demeanor, personal presentation, decision making and accountability etc. Page 2

6 Exam Scoring Skills are evaluated and graded daily. Assessment is based on the ability of the candidate to provide a safe and rewarding experience to her/his clients. Passing or not passing a candidate is primarily an issue of safety, any reasonable doubt in the mind of the assessor as to the ability of the candidate to guide safely, as supported by documentation, is grounds for a failing grade. Candidates will be assessed by a minimum of two examiners. They are graded on their performance in 9 designated skill areas. These skills are divided into sub-categories which better define the main skill areas. A summary score card will be generated from daily scores to determine whether to pass or fail a candidate. Personal interviews are held at the end of the exam where a verbal assessment will be given by the examiners; this is meant to help the candidates assess their own performance. Copies of score cards and evaluation summaries will be mailed to candidates within 30 days of the conclusion of the exam. To pass the exam, a candidate s final summary score sheet must show a passing score in each of the 9 assessment categories. Marking Scale The marking scale used is Pass, Marginal, and Not Pass. Marks will be based on the following criteria: P = Acceptable performance. The candidate shows consistently strong performance in all guiding techniques and skills. A high and consistent level of good judgment with respect to safety and objectives is shown. The candidate is comfortable in a leadership role and has sufficient energy to meet the needs of the client. M = Marginal performance. The candidate displays weakness in important techniques, knowledge, or experience. Poor or inconsistent application of guiding techniques or principles is apparent. Multiple attempts and/or excessive time is required to attain acceptable performance. The candidate is preoccupied with her/his own needs and has limited energy for the group or client. NP = Substandard performance. The candidate makes a major error (or is stopped in the process of making a major error) that has potentially life threatening ramifications, seriously compromises objectives, chronically makes mistakes of a lesser magnitude and/or Page 3

7 Interpretation of Marks As a general rule, candidates receiving more than one Not Pass mark in any of the main assessment categories do not pass the category. Candidates receiving Marginal marks for more than one third of the total number of marks in any given assessment category do not pass the category. Any candidate, who fails any of the categories, does not pass the exam. To Pass the Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification Exam the candidate must receive: *6 Marginal Scores or fewer, or *3 Not Pass Scores total. Earning more than 6 Marginal scores will result in failure of the exam. In any individual category the candidate is allowed 2 marginal scores, which equal 1 Not Pass. A Not Pass in any category on the final summary card constitutes failure of the Exam. Assessment Categories Risk Management. The candidate must: Client Security - maintain an adequate level of security for the client(s) given the objective, conditions and the client profile. Hazard Recognition/Analysis - recognize and analyze hazards that will affect risk, such as objective hazards, general internal and external hazards, etc. Minimization of Risk - minimize risk by use of all appropriate measures. Guide Security - maintain an adequate level of security for the guide given the objective and conditions. Client Care. The candidate must: Comfort - be aware of comfort levels and ensure not to compromise safety. Communication - clearly and professionally communicate instructions for a safe, comfortable, and enjoyable experience. Client Orientation - provide adequate information to the client. Quality of Experience - provide a rewarding and enjoyable experience within the confines of conditions, risk management, client profile and exam assignment. Technical Systems. The candidate must understand and correctly use: Protection/Anchors/Belays - protection, anchor, and belay techniques. Rappelling/Lowering - rappelling and lowering techniques. Rope Management - appropriate rope management techniques while using short-rope and pitched climbing techniques. Short- roping/pitching - short-roping and pitching techniques. Rescue Skills - rock, snow, and/or crevasse rescue systems and evacuation depending on discipline. Navigation - (for Alpine and Ski only) map, compass, and altimeter, create/ implement effective route plan. Page 4

8 Application. The candidate must: Apply the right technique in the right place at the right time. Terrain Assessment. The candidate must: Route Selection - assess assigned routes and use alternatives if required. Route finding - appropriately approach, ascend, and descend routes. Track setting - (ski and alpine only), set an effective, efficient, and safe track. Movement Skills. The candidate must display: 3rd, 4th and 5th class terrain - efficient, safe and secure movement in 3rd and 4th class terrain. Candidates may be asked to demonstrate their ability to lead and guide short sections of rock or mixed terrain up to 5.5 in ski mountaineering boots, possibly with or without crampons. Skiing ability - Must show efficient and confident skiing movement and able to link dynamic turns in variable back country snow. Capable of ski guiding in a variety of snow conditions up to 50. Demonstrate personal skiing ability equivalent to PSIA Level 3 InstructorsSki Mountaineering Guides must also demonstrate snow and ice climbing ability to 60 degrees. Fitness & stamina - adequate to complete the day s objective and maintain a reasonable margin of additional energy. Able to Ascend 6,000 vertical feet and descend up to 12,000 vertical feet. Pace & time management - show efficient use of time, and good pace given the days objectives, conditions and client profile. Mountain Sense. The candidate must: Decision Making - effectively identify, act upon, and carry out options. Stress Management - manage stress without compromising performance. Error Correction - correct errors in due time, without compromising safety or the objective and with minimum disruption of activity. Professionalism. The candidate must: Personal Presentation - well presented, professional appearance Attitude/Demeanor- should be professional at all times Planning/Preparation - plan and prepare adequately for all activities; including research, knowledge of options, and familiarity with alternatives. Environmental Consciousness - exhibit current environmentally sensitive back country travel and climbing practices. Instructional Technique. The candidate must: Lesson Planning - use and implement appropriate lesson plans and teaching progressions. Pedagogy - understand and use a variety of teaching methods adaptable to learner types. Communicate clearly with a positive attitude.learner types. Coaching and Tips - provide appropriate coaching and tips to assist in making a comfortable and rewarding experience. Page 5

9 Additional Exam Information for Ski Mountaineering Guide Aspirants All candidates of the Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam will are required to take and pass the Crevasse Rescue Assessment Drill. Notification of Irrevocable Failure If at some point in the exam a candidate fails the exam irrevocably, that candidate shall be informed as soon as that decision is reached. The candidate may choose to remain for the rest of the exam or to leave early. Candidates should remember that they must attend final debrief if they wish to appeal the examiners decision. Appeals Candidate may appeal the failure of the exam. Appeals are addressed to the Technical Director (TD) and should be sent to the AMGA Colorado office. Appeals must be made in writing and received by the AMGA office no sooner than 2 weeks and no later than 8 weeks after the conclusion of the exam. Appeals must address the specific reasons for failure as given by the examiners in the final debrief. The Technical Director will review the appeal and decide if the appeal has potential merit. If the TD decides it has potential merit he will appoint a committee to review the appeal. The Technical Director will act on the Review Committee recommendation to reach a final decision. Candidates who do not attend the personal interview at the end of their exam forfeit their right to appeal. If an appeal is made, copies of daily marking cards and exam summary will be sent to the candidate. Page 6

10 NOTES photo courtesy Mark and Kathy Houston Page 7

11 Suggested Equipment List The equipment list is a recommendation only and is not intended to be prescriptive. It is up to the guide to determine what equipment is appropriate for the days activity. An items absence from the list does not necessarily indicate its use is inappropriate. This list may be adjusted by your Course Director based on the venue and time of season. SKIING EQUIPMENT: Alpine Touring, Telemark, or Snowboard (split-board or with short approach skis) Boots (randonnée or telemark), poles, climbing skins Ski brakes recommended when more appropriate than leashes, depending on binding type. Ski crampons Ski straps multi purpose SNOW SAFETY EQUIPMENT: Avalanche transceiver (457 khz single frequency) Avalanche probe Shovel (flat-backed metal blade recommended) Pack (for guides equipment, 1-day and multi day) First Aid Kit Bivy Sack or Guide s Tarp (2 or more people) FM VHF radio and/or cell phone* Avalung, avalung pack, or ABS pack should be considered situationally SNOW STUDY KIT: Guides Notebook- 4 5/8 x 7 all-weather paper ( Rite in the Rain LEVEL, No. 311 recommended) with Field Observation templates *Available from Brooks Range Mountaineering - and/or AIARE Fieldbook. 2 Mechanical pencils Crystal card Magnifying loupe (5x-10x) 1-2 Dial-Stem Thermometers (Centigrade) Snow saw and/or Ruschtblock cutting cord Folding ruler (1-2m) or other measuring device Clinometer (or compass with clinometer) GUIDE S EQUIPMENT: Map, Map case Compass Altimeter, and/or alarm watch Map ruler (for distances and slope angles) *Available from Brooks Range Mountaineering - Repair kit Page 8

12 Light ski harness w/ adjustable leg loops, belay loop and gear loops 3 Screw-gate pear-shaped carabineers Four non-locking carabineers Small ascender like Rope Man or tibloc (optional) 1 ice screw ( 22cm prefered for V thread) 1 V - thread tool ( situaltional) Small ascender like Rope Man or tibloc (optional) 2 pieces of rock protection (small med) Rescue sled (improvised or commercial) * Available from Brooks Range Mountaineering - Climbing helmet (may be situationally appropriate) Skiing helmet (optional) Ice axe, Boot crampons CLOTHING: All necessary under, mid, and outer layers appropriate to the area and season Winter gloves Warm hat Sun hat Balaclava or neck gaiter Gaiters or in-the-pants gaiters Socks OTHER ACCESSORIES: Headlamp with spare batteries and bulb Sunglasses Goggles (light lenses) Sun screen SPF 30 or greater Lip balm SPF 30 or greater Butane lighter Ear plugs (optional) Toilet articles Toilet paper One-liter water container Vacuum bottle (optional) Camera, film or digital Topographic Maps: TBA SKI CAMPING/ BIVY EQUIPMENT: Sleeping bag Sleeping pad Stove, fuel, cook pot for 2-4 people Cup and spoon Shelter for 2-4 people if not using huts FOOD: Food preparation arrangements will be announced prior to the course. Page 9

13 Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam Information This sheet includes additional information for the Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam candidates. Please refer to General Exam Information for more information on the scoring methods and procedures. Ski tours will involve travel through mountainous backcounlry terrain where route finding, snow stability evaluation, hazard assessment and management, and group control will be among your primary responsibilities. Additional emphasis will be placed on client rewards and enjoyment You will be required to pass rescue systems drills, transceiver drills, bivouac construction drills, and employ standard avalanche hazard assessment and recording methods. You will conduct guides meetings and be responsible for maintaining a field observation notebook during the exam. A technical skiing skills assessment is included. You will be required to effectively guide competent skiers on slopes as steep as 50 degrees. Ski Mountaineering Guide Exams will include extensive use of rope techniques, including short roping, belaying, lowering and rapelling as well as crevasse rescue. Use of boot crampons and ice axe can expected. AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification is designed for guiding either ski tours on ski ascents/descents, in nordic, alpine touring or snow board equipment Ski guiding terrain may necessitate the use of some short roping or belaying techniques, where these skills permit the main objective of the outing, which is ski or snow board related. Ski mountaineering terrain also includes glaciated terrain with crevasse hazard, terrain with significant avalanche hazard, extensive use of rope techniques, and the use of ice axe or boot crampons if necessary to achieve a ski/snowboard based objective. Documentation During the exam, candidates will be required to present fieldbook documentation of recorded observations of avalanche activity, snowpack and weather per SWAG standards as well as route plans and risk management plans to include emergency contacts. Ski Mountaineering Assessment Drills There are four parts to the Ski Mountaineering Assessment Drills: avalanche transceiver search, rescue sled with raising and lowering, bivouac construction, and crevasse rescue. These drills have been developed in order to assess candidates understanding and application of standard rescue systems. Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam participants will be expected to perform the crevasse rescue skill exercise within a specific time frame while using a limited amount of gear. Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam participants my be asked to perform the avalanche transceiver search, rescue sled with raising and lowering, and bivouac construction drills within a specific time frame while using a limited amount of gear, even though they have already passed the Aspirant Exam. Generally only one attempt is normally allowed for each assessment exercise. Page 10

14 Avalanche Transceiver Search Time allowed: 7 minutes Three electronic avalanche transceivers, each in the top flap of an average sized pack (35-45 liters), or activated in a preset beacon park, will be buried approximately one meter deep in a defined area of 100 meters by 100 meters. The candidate may have one assistant for digging if working in an exam constructed site. After digging out the first two transceivers the assistant may turn them off. If working in a beacon park, no assistants will be allowed. In this case, once a probe strike has been confirmed, the beacon will be turned off after 60 seconds.the exercise is complete the moment of probe strike and confirmation of the third buried pack or beacon park device. Crevasse Rescue Time allowed: 45 minutes Equipment allowed: One CE rated half rope One ice axe One pack One pair of skis One pair of ski poles One snow shovel One ice screw One harness One cordelette (6mm nylon is acceptable for use on snow) Three locking carabiners (plus one additional on victim s harness) Four non-locking carabiners Four slings, (cord or webbing) Cord for friction hitches may be 5mm to provide adequate friction on the half rope. The guide must be protected when within 2 meters of any crevasse edge. Candidates begin the exercise with the client tied in for glacier travel, skis on, standing on the glacier. The victim slides into the crevasse sideways. The guide must arrest the fall with the victim in the crevasse suspended by the rope. The clock starts after the fall has been stopped. The excercise must be completed in the order below. 1. Victim slips into crevasse, guide arrests the fall. 2. Build an anchor and transfer the load to that anchor. 3. Rappel to the victim. Safety back up required on guide. 4. Prepare victim to be extricated. 5. Ascend out of crevasse. 6. Establish a haul system, minimum 5:1 mechanical advantage required. 7. Haul the victim out of the crevasse. The exercise is complete when both client and guide are on the surface. Page 11

Rescue Sled, Lowering Time allowed: 70 minutes Equipment allowed: Same as for Crevasse Rescue exercise with the addition of; One emergency rescue sled (improvised or commercially manufactured, must

15 Rescue Sled, Lowering Time allowed: 70 minutes Equipment allowed: Same as for Crevasse Rescue exercise with the addition of; One emergency rescue sled (improvised or commercially manufactured, must make use of victim s skis). Victim s skis, poles and pack. Bivouac sack or guides tarp. On a slope of 40 or steeper, lower the victim 2 rope lengths from the most appropriate anchor (rock, snow or ice), managing one lowering station transfer. During the final lower a knot pass must be effectively executed. If appropriate for security, the rope end must be anchored. A second candidate may be used as an assistant. Bivouac Construction Time allowed: 30 minutes Equipment allowed: One snow shovel One 2-person bivouac sack or guides tarp 3 pairs of skis 3 sets of poles. Construct an effective emergency bivouac shelter for three people suitable to the snow conditions and snow depth. photo courtesy Mark and Kathy Houston Page 12

16 AMGA Exam - Daily Marking Card Candidate Name Examiner Date Exam Name Ratio Technical Difficulty Grade Hours examined Examined:# of pitches # of rappels # of lowers Approach:3rd/4th class (#ft) Descent: 3rd/4th class (#ft) Uphill guiding (feet) Downhill guiding (feet) Terrain type Weather conditions Category Mark Category Mark 1. Risk Management 5. Terrain Assessment 2. Client Care a. Client security b. Hazard recognition c. Minimixation of risk d. Guide security a. Comfort b. Communication c. Orientation c. Quality of experience 3. Technical Systems 4. Application a. Belays/protection/anchors b.rappelling/lowering c.short roping/pitching d. Rescue skills e. Rope management f. Navigation a. Right techniques, right place, right time. Page 13 a. Route selection b. Route finding c. Track setting 6. Movement Skills a. Climbing ability b. 3rd 4th class terrain c. Skiing ability d. Fitness/stamina e. Pace and time management 7. Mountain Sense a. Decision making b. Stress,anagment c. Error correction 8. Professionalism a. Personal presentation b. Attitiude/demeanor c. Planning preparation d. Environmental Consciousness 9. Instructional Technique a. Lesson planning b. Pedegogy c. Coaching./tips

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2016 Snowcraft Course Information

2016 Snowcraft Course Information Dates Beginner 21 st 23 rd July, 28 th 30 th July, 18 th 20 th August Intermediate 18 th 20 th August, 25 th 27 th August Advanced 25 th 27 th August Beginner Course Information