1 Towns along the R34 UTRECHT Population: Altitude: 1218m/3996ft Rainfall: (On route N11 about 10 km north of Newcastle the R34 turns off east to reach Utrecht after approximately 47 km) Situated on the southern slopes the Balele Mountain, named for Chief Langalibalele ( the scorching sun ) of the amahlubi group. Origin Was established before 1850. It is one of the five original Voortrekker settlements and features prominently during the Anglo Boer War of 1870 whereby it serves as Headquarters for the British Troops for several weeks. In 1852, a group of Voortrekkers settled along the Buffalo River in northern Natal. That was beyond the agreed borders of the Transvaal Republic which was created by the Sand River Convention in the same year. It was very much against the wishes of the Transvaal government, which believed the British might regard the settlement an encroachment on their territory. In an attempt to rasionalise the situation, the settlers formed the Buffalo River Company. In 1854, they gave Mpande, the king of the Zulus, 100 head of cattle in exchange for grazing rights in the large area they had occupied between the Buffalo and Ncome (later Blood) rivers. They then elected their own 'government' comprising a landdrost and four councilors. In the same year (1854) a village was founded on the farm Schoonstroom ('clear stream'). At first the Transvaal ignored a request for incorporation by Utrecht. But later they did recognize Utrecht's provisional government, with JC. Steyn as landdrost. There were then two 'governments', and the people were divided into a pro-transvaal faction and those whose favourite incorporation with the republic of Lydenburg, which had seceded from the Transvaal in 1856. The Lydenburgers won and Utrecht was incorporated with that republic in 1858. When Lydenburg rejoined the Transvaal in 1860 it took Utrecht with it. At the end of the Anglo-Boer War, Utrecht was returned to the colony of Natal. In 1910, a 45km branch railway from Newcastle was built. Recently, the town is the administrative centre for cattle rancher and coal mining industries. Name The village together with the 'republic' was named on 5 March 1856 after the city in Holland with the same name.
2 UTRECHT continue Agriculture Savanna vegetation Cattle and sheep ranching. Mining and industries Coal mining forms the major economic activity. Historical sites and monuments Rothman and Shawe - Excellent examples of colonial residential architecture in KwaZulu-Natal. Three Historic Homes (Declared as national monuments) Uys House - Dates back to 1856. - It is one of the oldest structures in KwaZulu-Natal north of the Thukela River. - Home of Dirk Uys, appointed commandant of Utrecht in November 1855. Old Sandstone Rectory - Built in 1887. - Converted into a museum. - Exhibits include a collection of Dutch Bibles, memorabilia of the Anglo-Zulu and Anglo-Boer wars and several period displays. Several Historical Buildings Historical Walks Conference Hill Magistrate s Offices. Old Post Office dated 1892. Dutch Reformed Church. Town Hall dated 1913. Old Residency. Trails wander through the town s historical and architectural treasures. Prior to the outbreak of the Anglo-Zulu War, British government representatives conducted negotiations with Zulu chiefs at Conference Hill.
3 UTRECHT continue Historical sites and monuments continue Captain Leo Pokrowsky Memorial Erected in honour of a Polish officer in the Russian army. He fought for the Boers during the Anglo-Boer War. He was killed on Christmas Day 1900 when his company attacked the British garrison in Utrecth. Monument to Piet Uys Leader of the Burgher Force. Killed on 28 March 1879 while fighting with the British against the Zulus in the battle of Hlobane. He was the first appointed landdrost (magistrate) of Utrecht when the town was incorporated into the Transvaal in 1860. Old Cemetery Final resting place of Boers and British troops side by side. Old Parsonage Museum: Old Republican Powder Magazine Was built in 1887. It houses Anglo- Boer War various artefacts such as old documents, items found at British campsites and Dutch Bibles. Erected in 1893. One of three similar structures built by the old Transvaal Republic Government. Attractions and Activities Balele Located in the picturesque Balele Mountains. Conservancy Offers various outdoor activities such as the Balele Waterfall Trial. (15 000 ha) Several Hiking Trails Enhlanzeni Valley Trail. Balele Waterfall Trail. Entabeni Hiking Trail. Fly-fishing
4 VRYHEID Population: Altitude: 1166m/3825ft Rainfall: (On route R33 south of Piet Retief in Mpumalanga and approximately 70km northeast from Dundee and on route R34 approximately 120km north of Melmoth) Armed in the northeast by the Ezungwini Mountains and in the northwest by Skurweberg ('rugged mountain') the R33 passed the hamlet of Blood River at the River with the same name. It was at this spot that the battle between King Digane and the Voortrekkers took place on 16 December 1838. Origin Traces its beginnings indirectly to the Anglo-Zulu War of 1879. Following the defeat of the Zulus at Ulundi), the British administration divided the territory of the Zulus into 13 independent chiefdoms. Dinuzulu, successor to King Cetshwayo in 1884, continued his father's feud with rival Zibhebhu, enlisting the help of a number of Boer mercenaries under Lucas Meyer. Payment would take the form of land grants. After the defeat of Zibhebhu in the battle of Ghost Mountain, Dinuzulu discovered to his dismay there would be nothing left of Zululand if he granted each of the 800 mercenaries the size of farm they swore he had promised in payment. Lucas Meyer's men persisted, and several fruitless surveys were undertaken. Britain intervened, and in the end the Boers accepted a tract of land corresponding more or less to what became the district of Vryheid. On 16 August 1884 they proclaimed the New Republic, with Vryheid ('freedom') as capital. It was officially established as capital on 12 November 1884. The constitution was modeled on that of the Transvaal, and Lucas Meyer was installed as president. After Britain's annexation of Zululand in 1887 the burghers of the New Republic felt threatened once again and began their negotiations for incorporation with the Transvaal Republic. This was agreed, by Britain as well as the Transvaal, and unification was concluded on 20 July 1888. Vryheid was occupied by British troops at the start of the Anglo-Boer War in 1899 and incorporated into Natal after the war. The strong German-speaking community in and around the town are descendants of the missionaries and craftsmen sponsored by the Hermannsburg Missionary Society. In 1903 it gained the status of a township and in 1912 it became a municipality. Currently it is still an important link of the railway from the Mpumalanga coalfields to the ore and bulk cargo port of Richards Bay on the north coast of KwaZulu-Natal.
5 VRYHEID continue Name It is derived from the Afrikaans word Vryheid / Freedom that refers to the freedom that the people under Lucas Meyer (president) sort after and the hope that it would bring to their republic. Agriculture Cattle ranching Main crops are maize and groundnuts. The headwaters and tributaries of the White and Black Mfolozi rivers is well stocked with trout, black bass and barbel. Mining and industries Coal mining. Deposits of several other minerals have also been proved, including talc and manganese. Sawmills, tile and brick making and the processing of talc and wattle extract. There are extensive wattle and timber plantations in the district. Historical sites and monuments The Located approximately 20km north of town on the R33 to Piet Retief. Raadzaal Built in 1884. ('council Exhibits include relics from the Great Trek and a fine collection of chamber') period firearms. of the Recently declared as a national monument. New Republic Whinstone (basalt) Fort of the New Republic Located behind the Raadzaal on the R33 to Piet Retief. Also served as prison, post office and police station Recently declared as a national monument. The Carnegie Public Library Built in 1908. The American Carnegie Foundation donated money and it was then used to build the Carnegie Public Library. Restored to its original character in the town s centenary year during 1984 and was incorporated into the museum. Houses a variety of Anglo- Boer War artefacts and the woodwork is still the original imported Oregon pine. Recently houses Vryheid information center.
6 VRYHEID continue Lucas Meijer House The Knabble huisie (knibbel huisie) Anglo-Zulu War at Nkambula Anglo-Boer War at Holkrans ('hollow cliff') Battle of Lancaster Hill Built for the wife of Lucas Meyer Meijer (First president of the New Republic). Completed in 1884 in Cape Dutch Revival style, with late Art Nouveau decorations. Meyer died in 1902 and his widow lived in the house until 1961. Recently proclaimed as a cultural history museum as well as a national monument. Believed to be the country's oldest home-industry enterprise. Among the items for sale are articles woven or knitted from handspun yarn in Glückstadt Located about 25 k northwest of the town. Situated in the valley of the Mpemvana River A day after the battle of Hlobane, the British under Colonel Evelyn Wood inflicted heavy losses on a Zulu impi of 25 000 (March 1879). A Boer commando of 56 men was wiped out in a surprise attack by a Zulu force on 6 May 1902. It was only a few days before the peace treaty of Vereeniging brought an end to the Anglo-Boer War. Battle of Scheepers Nek (1900) Located 5km west of town on route R34. - Battle of Lancaster Hill (1900) Located in the Vryheid nature reserve.
7 VRYHEID continue Attractions and Activities Vryheid Nature Reserve (720ha) Klipfontein Nature Reserve (4 562ha) Located on Lancaster Hill overlooking the town about 1 km north of the town on the R33 towards Piet Retief. Office hours is from 08h00 am to 17h30pm and do not offers overnight facilities and accommodation yet, but planning to do so is in the process. Offers a one-day hiking trail and several longer trails. Home to small different game species such as some blesbok, wildebeest, zebra s, rhebok, rare species of kudu and eland and some birds. Site of the Battle of Lancaster Hill is situated inside the reserve. Klipfontein is not yet officially proclaimed as a nature Reserve but is operated as a public resort by the Natal Parks Board. Located about 6 km south of the town on the R34 to Melmoth as well as about 8km to the east on the R69 to Louwsburg. Klipfontein dam offers excellent picnic facilities for day visitors and limited camping sites for overnight accommodation Offers various activities such as boating, fishing and bird watching. Ngome State Forest in the Ntendeka wilderness area Situated east of Vryheid. It is on route R69 to Louwsburg and after about 27km the R69 turns off to Ngome on the R618 and after about 60km on the gravel road the Ntendeka wilderness area which includes the Ngome State Forest is located next to the road. Home to a rare combination of coastal and inland species of tropical forests. This tropical forest has a rich history dating back to the 1820 s when it was a hiding place for the Khumalo ally of Mzilikazi, founder of the Zimbabwe s Ndebele Nation and about 50 years later it became also a shelter for Cetshawayo after Ulundi was taken over by the British Army. Sites of early Zulu life and an historical shelter can be found in the Ntendeka cliffs on the 5 500 ha grassland plains within the forestry. It boasts 19 of South Africa s 42 species of tree orchids as well as the rare olive woodpecker, Ngome Lily and the red bush squirrel. Home to leopards, small game like the blue and grey duiker, caracals, samango monkeys, baboons, vervet monkeys, a wide variety of birds and snakes. Excellent bird watching opportunities with birds like the threatened bald ibis and long crested eagle which can be spotted in the forests. Other birds include the purple crested Loerie, black headed oriole and Narina trogon.
8 PAULPIETERSBURG Population: Altitude: 1109m/3638ft Rainfall: up to 1 000 mm Battlefields Region On route R33, approximately 44km north from Vryheid and 80km south from Piet Retief in Mpumalanga. Situated at the eastern edge of the Drakensberg escarpment, flanked by Makateeskop (1 737 m) in the west and Dumbe (1 536 m) in the southeast. Origin Forms part of the Transvaal when HJ Maarschalk of Utrecht surveyed and established the town in 1888. Plays a significant role in the military movements during the Anglo Boer War in the area Was one of three districts (Utrecht and Vryheid) in northern KwaZulu-Natal that were associated with the (ZAR) Transvaal Republic, prior to the Anglo Boer War. The town was at one stage incorporated with Zululand. There were 20 families in the village at the outbreak of the Anglo-Boer War. On 27 January 1903 the district were proclaimed and incorporated into Natal. The town acquired municipal status in 1958. On 6 January 1914 the railway between Vryheid and Piet Retief via Paulpietersburg opened The guest of honour at the ceremonies along the line was General Louis Botha, prime minister of the new Union of South Africa at the time. Name Originally called Paulpietersrust, in honour of Paul Kruger and General Piet Joubert, commandant-general of the Transvaal's armed forces, who in 1881 defeated the British at Laing's Nek and Majuba in the first Anglo-Transvaal war. Later renamed to Paulpietersdorp. In 1896 it was finally renamed to Paulpietersburg. Also called Dumbe by the Zulu inhabitants. Derived from the Zulu word madumbe, an edible potato-like tuber that grows on the slopes of the mountain. Claims to Fame Natal Hot Mineral Spa (natural wonders) - Located just south east of the town. - Originated from the spring of the Bivane River. - It is believed that the hot mineral water is mildly radioactive and has healing powers.
9 PAULPIETERSBURG continue Battlefields Region Agriculture Well watered area by several perennial streams with an annual rainfall of up to 1 000 mm. Mixed farming is practice (beef and dairy cattle, maize, sorghum, groundnuts and legumes). Boasts large bluegum, pine and wattle plantations. Mining and industries Well mineralised deposits of high-quality coal, mica, and kaolin and iron ore have been found. Historical Sites and Monuments Egode River Monument (three marked boulders) Also known as the Peace Boulders. Marks the spot where General Louis Botha, supreme commander of the Boer forces in Natal, met members of the Utrecht commando in April 1902 to elect delegates to the peace negotiations at Vereeniging. Kruger Bridge Stretches across the Bivane River. Dates from the time when the town was part of the Transvaal Republic. The Gereformeerde Church Recently used as a library. According to tradition, President Paul Kruger (referring to himself as a Dopper) donated five gold sovereigns for the building costs. First Drostdy Victorian Architecture The first British Colonial Public Building in this area. Hosts the magistrate's court and offices. Declared as a national monument in December 1980. Attraction and Activities Pongola Bush Located at the borderline between KwaZulu Natal and Nature Reserve Mpumalanga, about 20 km northwest of Paulpietersburg (follow (858 ha) the road to Lüneberg) on the Phongolo River. Established in 1972 The vegetation in this hilly region varies from open grassland to indigenous evergreen forest, which includes many specimens of yellowwood. Home too many bird species, antelopes (grey duiker, blue duiker and bushbuck), vervet monkey and the rare samango monkey. Dumbe Dam Operated as a recreational resort and offers various activities
10 LÜNEBURG Population: Altitude: Rainfall: On route R33, approximately 40km north of Vryheid a gravelroad turns off northwest to Lüneberg for about 18km and follows a loop drive that ends in Paulpietersburg at about 30km east from Lüneberg. Located in the valley of the Phongolo River and forms the boundary between KwaZulu-Natal and Mpumalanga provinces. Origin One of the oldest white settlements of the Transvaal Republic The communities of Lüneburg and the neighbor hamlet Braunschweig at about 8 km northeast were both involved at all the late-1800s dramas of this unsettled frontier. Originated as a project of the Hermannsburg Missionary Society of Germany. Established its local headquarters at Hermannsburg in the KwaZulu-Natal midlands in 1854 A concession from the Transvaal government was given to the settlers to fell and sell timber from the dense forests in these parts The non-missionary members of the community began round about 1869 to harvest the giant yellowwood and stinkwood trees and exchanging it for cattle on the Transvaal Highveld and as far as recently known Botswana. They bought farms with the profits on which they grew maize, wheat and citrus fruit. In 1869 their first church was built In 1870 the first school was built and is recently believed to be the oldest in northern KwaZulu-Natal. Members of the Lüneburg community kept their religious and cultural heritage and the village is unmistakably German in character. Name Most of the farmer settlers come from the German town of Lüneburg and they have decided to name this settlement after their homestead.
11 LÜNEBURG continue Historical sites and monuments Fort Clery (Anglo-Zulu War and Anglo Boer War) Memorial of Heinrich Filter and Schernbrücker Foundations / remains of the first church and fort - Built by Colonel Wood and his soldiers around the church Anglo-Zulu War - In the confused maneuverings, leading up to the Anglo-Zulu War the Zulus ordered the settlers off their farms as the land was needed for grazing. - The Lüneburgers refused and built a fort around the church for the protection of their women and children. - Requests for help fell on deaf ears in Pretoria, which had just been annexed by Britain - The people of Lüneberg then turned to the British in Pietermaritzburg. - The 90th Regiment, led by Colonel (later General Sir) Evelyn Wood, was then despatched in 1878. - Colonel Wood and his men were later replaced by Colonel F.X. Schermbrücker and 122 volunteers of the Kaffrarian Vanguard, - During the Anglo-Zulu-War, the Lüneburgers spent nine months within their fortifications Anglo-Boer War - During the Anglo-Boer War, the men of the town served on the Boer side, in the commandos of Utrecht, Wakkerstroom and Piet Retief. - Several sent to India and St Helena as prisoners of war while their women and children interned in concentration camps. - When the war ended, 22 Lüneburgers were still active in the field Located in the cemetery Commemorates two men who were killed in a skirmish with Zulus during the Anglo-Zulu War - Heinrich Filter, 17-year-old son of Reverend JH. Filter first minister and teacher. - A Dane called Larsen, aide-de-camp to Colonel Schermbrücker. Graves of 44 British Soldiers Located in the Cemetery Killed on 12 March 1879, in a surprise attack by a Zulu group, on a British supply train at Ntombe Drift. The last two British solders to die in the Anglo-Zulu War are also buried here
12 LOUWSBURG Population: Altitude: 1260m/4134ft Rainfall: (On route R69 approximately 55km from Vryheid) The R69 passes the township of Coronation about 30km east from Vryheid, which serves the remaining coal mines operating among the nearby hills and after a further 25 km reaches the village of Louwsburg Origin Proclaimed in 1920. Name Named for a pioneer of this region, David Louw. Agriculture Cattle ranching and maize. Attractions and Activities Magdalena Game Farm Urnziki Game Farm Located between Vryheid and Louwsburg on the R69 Located between Louwsburg and Magudu (('the enchanted place') in the east on the R69
13 LOUWSBURG Continue Ithala Game Reserve (30 000 ha) Originated under ownership of white farmers since 1884 after Zulu king Dinizulu, in gratitude of the fighting service of 115 volunteers, granted 800 Boers more than 1.1 million hectares of land in northern Natal This area became then known as the Nieuwe Republiek This whole area was before 1884 abundant with game but during 1896, game populations were almost destroyed due to the hunting of the farmers and finally the Rinderpest epidemic Contains archaeological sites which are evidence of human habitation as far back as the middle stone age. During the Zulu wars and the reign of Chaka many people take shelter in the caves along the cliffs around Itala. San rock paintings located in caves in the eastern part of the reserve is evidence that Bushmen also roam through this area Most of the land in the Itala area was under the ownership of white settlers but was occupied by Zulus labourers and tenant farms. There were only 5 dwellings that were built by white settlers - Doornkraal - Doornpan - Potwe Halt - Langverwacht - Craig Adam In the 1900, gold was discovered and mined at the Wonder and Ngotshe Mines (recently abandoned) In 1972 in two sections on the southern banks of the Phongolo River, immediately east of the confluence of the Phongolo River and Bivane River as a game viewing reserve. Derived its name from the Zulu word ithala ('the shelf') In 1973 the Natal Parks Board takes authority over of Itala and started a extensive program in order to end the severe soil erosion and overgrazing of land by livestock The original 8 000 ha land were enlarged to about 30 000ha of conservation land and contains remains of old fields and homesteads. In 1973 the Parks Board relocate some 20 mammal species which includes black and white Rhinos, kudus, tsessebe, red hartebeests, eland, giraffes, cheetahs and brown hyenas. In 1990 a small herd of young elephants were allowed to the park. Offers various accommodation facilities such as a bush camp, campsites, chalets and a conference centre at Ntshondwe Rest Camp Ntshondwe ('pointed') Restcamp were named for a peak that overlooks the reserve *DO NOT SWIM IN THE PONGOLA RIVER* CROCODILES!!
14 Resources and further reading Cloete, PG. The Anglo-Boer War A chronology. JP van der Walt. Pretoria. 2000. Erasmus, BPJ. On route in South Africa. Jonathan Ball Publishers. 2004. Game Parks and Nature Reserve of Southern Africa: Readers Digest, 1991 Game Parks and Nature Reserve of Southern Africa: Readers Digest, 1997 Raper, PE. Dictionary of Southern Africa Place Names. Jonathan Ball Publishers Johannesburg, Second Edition 1989. Van Dyk, P. Explore Kwazulu-Natal. March 2004 Visit and Explore South Africa CD version 2.3 KwaZulu-Natal Tourist Map 2006/2007. Brabys. Visits and photos Exploration-research trip. Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd. 2007 Oral resources Graham Acheson. KZN Battlefields guide.