THE MOUNTAINEERS JOMOLHARI TREK There is much to love about Bhutan, but it's the sacred side of the country that I enjoy the most. I love joining pilgrims as they look for the footprints of saints in a rockface, or explain monastery history in terms of flying tigers and unruly demons. On one hike alone, a reincarnated lama blessed me with a thangka made from the nose blood of a saint and then hit me on the back with the stone footprints of a divine skywalker. From Gross National Happiness to crazy wisdom, a journey to Bhutan is a journey into a different reality. Bradley Mayhew Perched high in the Himalayas with over 70% of its land area remaining in forest, Bhutan is a unique country both culturally and environmentally. Due to its location and great geographical and climatic variety, Bhutan is one of the world s most important biodiversity hotspots. Recognizing the importance of its environment, conservation is one of Bhutan s top development priorities. The government has decreed that 60% of its forest resources will be maintained for all time, and approximately 72% of the total land area is under forest cover with about 26% of the land area in protected areas within four parks. As a result, Bhutan offers a wonderful raw and unexploited environment. Nonetheless, the prevailing image of the country carried away by most visitors is the strong sense of culture and tradition that binds the kingdom and clearly distinguishes it from its larger neighbours. Bhutan is the only Vajrayana Buddhist nation in the world the last one remaining - and the profound teachings of this tradition show themselves in all aspects of life. Development here is measured using a holistic approach of well-being, not just based on gross domestic product. The Jomolhari Trek in Bhutan s far northwest is considered by many to be Bhutan's best walk (and listed by Walkapedia as one of the world s greatest walks), an eight-day horseshoe which follows ancient tracks beneath the spine of mountains separating Bhutan from Tibet, then turning eastward to descend the valley high above Thimpu, the country's capital. It takes you through unspoilt villages, in beautiful valleys which retain their ancient Tibetan Buddhist culture, then climbs through ravishing virgin forest before emerging to high summer pastures at the foot of magnificent, sacred Jomolhari (or Chomolhari). The route then crosses two high passes, passing two lonely dzongs (forts) in wild desolate landscape, before dropping back to the gentler delights of the cultivated valleys. The trek offers a taste of the great variety of Bhutanese landscape. Trip Itinerary (October 21-November 1, 2018) Mountaineers price $3500pp Day 01: Arrive Paro (7200ft). On arrival at Paro airport, we will be met by our outfitter s representative and transferred to our hotel after completion of arrival formalities. Evening visit to Paro market and town. Overnight at the hotel in Paro.
Day 02: Paro. Morning visit to Ta Dzong, built in 1651 as a watchtower and in 1968 inaugurated as Bhutan s National Museum. The collection includes art, relics, religious thangkha paintings, postage stamps, coins and handicrafts, as well as a small natural history collection. Below Ta Dzong is Rinpung Dzong (Paro Dzong), the fortress of the heap of jewels, built in 1646, and now housing the offices of the district administration and Paro s monk body. In the afternoon, we ll visit Kyichu Lhakhang. Built by the Tibetan king, Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century, it is one of the oldest and most sacred shrines of Bhutan. Overnight at the hotel in Paro. Day 03: Tiger s Nest Monastery (Taktsang Gompa 10,232ft), drive to Shana. Hike 5.2 miles, max ascent 2700, sleeping ascent 0. Taktsang is the birthplace of Bhutanese Buddhism and one of the most iconic sights in Bhutan. Guru Rinpoche (the great 8th century sage of Vajrayana Buddhism) is said to have flown here from Tibet on the back of a tigress, the manifestation of his divine consort Yeshe Tsogyal.
The hike starts with a gentle forest climb among prayer flags. After passing a creek and water powered prayer wheels the trail starts getting steeper. About half way up the climb is a nice tea house with great views of Tiger's Nest; you can get a tea and food here on your way up or down. After the teahouse we'll continue climbing nearly a mile to the viewpoint that overlooks Tiger's Nest - the BEST place to take photos of Taktsang. From here we'll walk about a half mile down a series of steep stairs to a waterfall before making your final ascent to the entrance where we'll be required to leave our backpacks, cameras, and phones in the provided lockers (it's a good idea to bring a small lock). We ll go back the same way we went up, then drive to Shana where our trek will begin. Day 04: Shana Soi Thangthangkha. 12.4 miles, 7-8 hours, high point 12,300, max and sleeping ascent 2855. The trail again follows the Pa Chu (Paro river), ascending and descending through pine, oak and spruce forests. After crossing a bridge to the left bank of the river, we stop for a hot lunch. Then we continue along the river, climbing upwards through rhododendron forests, and crossing the river once more before reaching our campsite (3,750m). Day 05: Soi Thangthangkha Jangothang. 12 miles, 7-8 hours, high point 13,250, max and sleeping ascent 950. The path ascends for a while until we reach the army camp. We then follow the river above the tree line, enjoying stunning views of the surrounding peaks. Hot lunch is served at a yak herder s camp. A short walk from here into the valley takes us to our campsite at Jangothang (4,040 m). From here, the views of Chomolhari and Jichu Drake are superb.
Day 06: Jangothang. Today we will rest for a day at Jangothang and visit the nearby lakes and the view of the mountains. (Possibly attend Jomolhari Mountain Festival? 4-5 Oct 2018) Day 07: Jangothang Lingshi. 11.2 miles, 7-8 hours, high point 15,420, max ascent 1180, sleeping ascent -130. The trail follows the stream for half an hour and crosses the bridge to the right bank. We now start our climb up to the first ridge, enjoying breathtaking views of Chomolhari, Jichu Drake and Tserimgang. The trail then takes us across a fairly level valley floor until the climb up to Nyele-la pass (4,700m) with grand views of nearby 7000m peaks. We descend gradually from the pass to our campsite at Lingshi (4,000m), enjoying a panoramic view of the mountain peaks and Lingshi Dzong as we walk.
Day 08: Lingshi Shodu. 13.7 miles, 8-9 hours, high point 15,810, max ascent 2700, sleeping ascent 200. Our trail climbs up towards a small white chorten on a ridge above the camp, then turns south up the deep Mo Chu valley. The trail stays on the west side of this largely treeless valley, climbing steadily a short distance above the Mo Chu. It then crosses the river, and climbs steeply for two hours to Yeli-la (4,820m). On a clear day you can see Chomolhari, Gangchenta, Tserimgang and Masagang from this pass. Descend alongside a stream to a rock shelter in the cliff face, and then continue on downstream till reaching Shodu (4,100m), where we will camp in a meadow with a chorten in it. Day 9: Shodu Barshong. 10 miles, 6/-7 hours high point 11,810, max and sleeping ascent -1650. We are now back at the tree line, and our path follows the course of the Thimphu Chu, descending through rhododendron, juniper and mixed alpine forests. There are stunning views of rocky cliff faces and waterfalls along the way. We stop at the riverside for a hot lunch. Then the trail takes us gradually upwards to the ruins of Barshong Dzong (3,600m), near which we camp for the night.
Day 10: Barshong Dolam Kencho Drive to Thimphu. Walk 9.3 miles, 5-6 hours, high point 11,810, max ascent 0, sleeping ascent -4150. The trail descends gently through a dense forest of rhododendron, birch and conifers, then drops steeply to meet the Thimphu Chu. The trail runs along the left bank of the river, climbing over ridges and descending into gullies where side streams run down into the river. The final stage of the trail climbs around a cliff face high above the Thimphu Chu, coming out onto pastureland at 3600. Our transport meets us here, and we drive to Thimphu (7656 ). Overnight at hotel in Thimphu. Day 11: Thimphu Paro. Full day of sightseeing in Thimphu valley visiting the following, as time permits: National Memorial Chorten; Tashichhodzong ( the fortress of the glorious religion ); National Library; Institute for Zorig Chusum (Bhutanese arts and crafts school); National Institute of Traditional Medicine (outside only); Handicrafts Emporium. Evening drive to Paro. Overnight at the hotel in Paro. Day 12: Depart Paro. After breakfast, drive to Paro airport for flight to Sikkim for Goecha La trek, or back to the U.S.
Jomolhari Trek Map Regional Map