Stopover etc... Bike the Bay 1 While most visitors are drawn to walk or ride the Golden Gate Bridge, biking Crissy Field below it is the more peaceful part of the experience; sounds are of the conversations of locals walking their dogs rather than multiple lanes of traffic whizzing by. Views of the bridge, the bay and Alcatraz (just a ferry ride away) are spectacular and the national parks-run Warming Hut is the perfect spot for an organic tea or treat. Of course, crossing the bridge is almost mandatory: walk or ride over it and catch a ferry back from Sausalito or, for those with more energy, cycle across then double back to cruise the forested Presidio or Golden Gate Park. On weekends or late afternoons, a rest on the grassy rise of Golden Gate Park s Hippie Hill comes with free entertainment from jugglers and fire twirlers practising their craft. Bayside beauty There s more to stunning San Francisco than cable cars and Alcatraz WORDS SUE WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES & BIG STOCK PHOTO The famous golden Gate Bridge. Inset: Lombard Street. HIT THE HIPPIE TRAIL 2 As the birthplace of 60s counterculture, The Haight s bohemian reputation lives on. Vintage clothes horses will love the options here though they may bemoan the area s gentrification, which continues despite local opposition. Those shunning the hippie scene should try Union Street, hugely popular with locals; or for chic boutiques, browse Fillmore Street between California and Bush. Of course, it s not all about clothes North Beach s City Lights Bookstore is a must for book lovers and music fans will love Haight s Amoeba Records. Haight & Ashbury Streets intersection Head for the hills 3 Wandering the streets of San Francisco is better than a trip to the gym; with hills popping up seemingly out of nowhere, quads soon get a workout. The switchbacks of Lombard Street make a good warm-up but, despite its fame as the crookedest street, Lombard s 18 per cent incline is nothing compared with its neighbours: the 31.5 gradient at nearby Filbert (between Leavenworth and Hyde) shows what the city s slopes are really made of. Once you tire of walking, an historic cable car ride is an effortless way to travel the same route and Market Street across to Fisherman s Wharf (via Chinatown) is the most popular line. Or simply grab a coffee and put the locals saying into practice: When you get tired of walking around San Francisco, you can always lean against it.
Stopover etc... The Palace of Fine Arts. 4 PERUSE THE PALACE After extensive restoration, the Palace of Fine Arts now reflects the Roman ruins feel its designer (architect Bernard Maybeck) was hoping for when he created the theatre and atrium in 1915. Built to celebrate the completion of the Panama Canal, the magnificent colonnades and rotunda sit next to a tranquil pond, a pleasant spot to daydream. Those with kids should reward them with a trip to the neighbouring Exploratorium, where hundreds Eat like a local 5 Bay Area foodies take their work seriously and the results pay off for visitors. Ingredients are listed in great detail with organic, local and sustainable meals featured across the city. In restaurants, SPQR deserves the buzz as a new hot spot: food lovers up and down the coast are already making it part of their city visits despite its no-bookings policy. While the menu is influenced by Italy, fresh and inspired food is what has crowds vying for a table in the small but elegant room. The kitchen is even changing the reputation of unglamorous vegetables: SPQR s signature dish of fried Brussels sprouts 6 HIGHLIGHTS OF HIGH CULTURE The San Francisco Symphony s acclaimed musical director Michael Tilson Thomas says making music is as necessary as eating, drinking or breathing. Contrary to popular opinion, you don t need a gown or tuxedo to enjoy classic music here; business or cocktail wear is fi ne. Last-minute rush tickets are available on the day from the box office (US $20) but good planners will appreciate the full online schedule (tickets range from US $25 to US $80). www.sfsymphony.org 110 Life etc of science, art and human perception exhibits are on display. For a glimpse into the backstreets of North Beach and with garlic, capers, lemon and parsley (US $7) has diners begging for the recipe. While in the area, it s worth knowing the newly revived Jazz District is just a stone s throw away. 1911 Fillmore Street (between Pine and Bush). Antipasti US $7; mains US $18 $20. beyond, arrive via the number 30 bus (beginning in Chinatown and ending a few blocks away). www.exploratorium.edu Soak up the hot springs Back to 7 Berkeley Berkeley makes a worthwhile day trip on numerous counts. While the half-hour BART train ride beneath the Bay will be excitement enough for some, activist types will enjoy strolling the tree-lined ed university campus 8 Peace pervades at Kabuki Hot Springs in the small pocket known as Japantown. For the optimum bathhouse experience, start with a massage or facial (prices vary) then tackle the bath house (about US $20) in its suggested order: 10-minute rounds in the communal steam room and sauna followed by a session in the hot pool (a toasty 40 C) and a bracing cold plunge. While nudity is optional, the iced, cucumber slices for puffy eyes appear the most common cover. Silence is maintained by a diplomatically worded sign next to a small gong offering guests the opportunity to dong for quiet if the experience gets too chatty. Women: W, F, Su. Men: M, Th, Sa. Tuesday is co-ed and clothed. www.kabukisprings.com; 1750 Geary Blvd (at Fillmore) 9 Hunt out history San Francisco City Guides obviously aren t scared of a few hills: after 35 years, this non-profit organisation continues to offer free walks through every nook and cranny of the city. Led by 250 volunteers, services are happily provided gratis, although donations are welcomed. While tourist hot spots like Fisherman s Wharf and Chinatown feature, take the chance to explore somewhere less obvious such as Nob Hill or Castro. www.sfcityguides.org Historic streetcar. where American free e speech was revived. Dining at Chez Panisse is a must if it s in your budget. The upstairs cafe is the cheaper option (mains US $18 27), while dinner downstairs is a set menu of 3 4 courses for US $55 Mondays, $65 Tuesdays to Thurdays and $85 on weekends (plus, of course, taxes, drinks and tip). Founder Alice Waters is internationally regarded and her focus on sustainable and seasonal eating has influenced chefs throughout California and beyond. Bookings are essential. Chez Panisse, 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley Forage at Ferry 10 This is a food city and nowhere is it better conveyed than The Ferry Market building. Dozens of gourmet and specialist producers peddle their wares in a daily delight to the tastebuds, enjoyed by tourists and locals alike. If you don t get your fi ll inside, the excellent Farmer s Market held outside on Tuesdays and Saturdays offers organic produce from local growers and is guaranteed to make a Golden Gate Park picnic one to remember.
GREEN machines Eco cars may help the planet, but it s up to us to embrace them WORDS SUE WHITE ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES Joining the traffi c in downtown Oakland, on the outskirts of San Francisco, there s plenty of competition for the road. From where I m sitting, everything seems big, fast and noisy. Gas guzzlers sweep by, revving their engines as they take off from the lights. My ride, on the other hand, doesn t make a sound. I m a passenger in an electric vehicle and, as the tiny three-door ZENN (Zero Emissions No Noise) silently glides through the streets, driving feels different. Not only are we quiet, but we re slow. California laws dictate we can do only 25mph (40km/h), though the ZENN could handle 60km/h and, as anyone who saw Who Killed the Electric Car? knows, electrics can go much faster. Although they need regular charging (the ZENN needs a boost every 40km), electrics are perfect commuter cars. As we ease into small parking spots and bypass petrol stations with glee, my usual greenie guilt about driving diminishes. Plugging in the power cord at home to charge the battery with green power, I m positively joyous. If the cars of the future are here, I wonder, why are we so enamoured of our petrol-dependent present? Likely the answer is threefold: speed, convenience and habit. Although 60km/h is plenty for the urban commute, which rarely exceeds 40km a day, we like the idea that we are free to drive far and fast. But, as we show interest in driving green, various alternatives to traditional high-emissions vehicles are entering the market. While public transport, bicycles and good old-fashioned shanks pony easily beat private vehicles in the green stakes, there s no doubt that weaning ourselves off petrol is a slow road. The federal government s proposed Green Car Innovation Fund may help by encouraging car manufacturers to improve emissions and fuel efficiencies. Still, Australians are gradually becoming more conscious of how they get around, with growing numbers of drivers taking a second look at their transport choices. sales of small cars are trending upwards. there are still plenty of toorak tractors out there, but the good news is that bigger suvs (and bigger cars in general) are experiencing a sales downturn.