J. Falk's Bushwhacker Wood Gas Stove Build Instructions

J. Falk's Bushwhacker Wood Gas Stove Build Instructions www.trailgear.org Home > Bushwhacker Wood Gas Stove > DIY Instructions < Back Samuel Lentz Welcome to the DIY Instructions for the Bushwhacker Wood Gas Stove Your IP Address - 65.7.253.240 - has been logged - NOTICE - Usage of the information on this web page is for personal use only. Using this information to manufacture, sell or distribute our stove design for profit or non-profit is prohibited! J. Falk's Bushwhacker Stove Assembled it's only 4-1/4" W x 6-3/4" H, weighing 6.7 oz 1 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

CLICK HERE to watch our Demo Videos TOOLS & MATERIALS: Safety glasses. Center punch Can opener. High speed Dremel tool with cutting wheel (high speed RPM's required ). High speed drill. 1/2" Uni-bit ($20.00). 1/8" drill bit. Small drill bit. Cloth tape measure. Black magic marker. Masking tape. Screw driver. Six pan head sheet metal screws, #6 by 1/2" long. Hardware cloth (used for fire grate and pot stand) One 27 ounce can. One 1 quart (new) paint can. Build time - 1 hour 30 minutes.!!! Click on any picture to enlarge!!! NOTE: In order for this design to work you must buy a 1 quart paint can and a 27 ounce can from the grocery store (this example I'm using Shredded Sauerkraut) with an outside diameter that just fits inside the rim of the 1 quart paint can. The can must also be a little shorter than the 1 quart paint can. This is for assembly and storage, which will be explained later. Simple 2 piece design using a 1 quart paint can and one 27 ounce can from the grocery store. When broken down for storage the 27 ounce can will slide into and nest inside the quart paint can. This will give a compact foot print (4-1/4" W x 4-7/8" H, weighing 6.7 oz) for storage in your gear. 2 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

STEP 1. PUT ON YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!!!. Always use eye protection when working with metal. First let's perpare both cans. Take the 1 quart paint can, using your can opener, cut out the bottom lid. Save the bottom from this can, usage will be explained later. Now remove the label off the 27 ounce food can. Using your can opener remove ONLY one lid. Clean and rinse the can of its contents and discard the lid. STEP 2. Lets first work on the 1 quart paint can. Make 4 air intake holes on the bottom of the 1 quart paint can. First mark the 4 hole positions (evenly spaced) on the bottom edge using a magic marker. For a standard US 1 quart paint can use this example... 1) Flip the paint can over so the bottom edge is up, and the seam of the can is facing you. 2) You'll first mark 2 hole positions, one on each side of the seam at 1-5/8" to the left and right of the seam. Note the black mark on the edge at the begining of the measuring tape. 3 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

Now you need to mark 2 more positions on the edge. These marks should be 3-3/8" to the left and right of the first two marked positions. This will give you 4 evenly spaced positions for the air intake holes on the bottom of the 1 quart paint can. STEP 3. Now you're going to mark the postion to drill a starter holes for the air intake ports. At each of the 4 marked positions on the edge, make a dot (with your magic marker) 1/2" off the edge of the rim. NOTE: I'm starting the measurement at the 1" mark. 4 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

STEP 4. Using your center punch make a dimple at each of the marked positions. DO NOT punch a hole, just make a dimple. This will help the drill bit not to slide off the starter hole you're going to drill next. Be careful not to bend the can. STEP 5. Start the 4 air intake holes. Slide the 27 ounce food can (bottom with lid facing up) into the bottom of the 1 quart paint can. Align both seams of the cans. Place masking tape over the bottom of both cans to secure them in place before you drill the starter holes. Make sure the seams in both cans are aligned. STEP 6. Drill the starter holes. Using a small drill bit, drill 4 small pilot holes at each of the marked locations for the air intake holes. Drill through both cans. Don't press hard, you want to avoid denting the cans. 5 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

STEP 7. Drill the 1/2" air intake holes. Pull the cans apart. Using a 1/2" uni-bit drill, drill four 1/2" air intake holes in each can. Be careful not to bend the cans. STEP 8. Finished air intake holes. Align the seams in both cans and slide the 1 quart paint can over the 27 ounce food can, the intake holes should line up. If the holes are little off, it will still work. 6 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

STEP 9. Now we will make 8 secondary air intake holes in the 1 quart paint can. Pull the cans apart. Lay the paint can on its side and mark (with magic marker) several dots around the can, 1" down from the top rim, opposite the 4 intake holes just created. Then take masking tape and wrap it around the can at the marked locations. Note the placement of the measuring tape just under the top rim. STEP 10. Start at the seam in the can and move to the right. Place your first starter hole 7/8" away from the seam, on the edge of the masking tape. Next place the remaining holes 1-5/8" apart around the can. This will give you 8 evenly spaced holes around the can. Here I used a very sharp (fine point) center punch to make the starter holes. If you don't have a sharp (fine point) center punch, then first dimple the holes with a punch then drill them out with a very small drill bit. DO NOT make a large diameter hole in this step, just a tiny starter hole. Be careful not to dent the can. NOTE: I'm starting the measurements at the 1" mark. STEP 11. Now open the 8 tiny starter holes to 1/8". Using a drill and a 1/8" drill bit, drill out the 8 secondary intake holes. Careful not to dent the can. 7 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

STEP 12. Flip the paint can over with the bottom facing up. Using your high speed Dremel tool with a cut off wheel, gently grind smooth any burrs on the inside of the paint can created from the drilling process. This includes the 8 secondary intake holes and the 4 main intake holes on the bottom. STEP 13. Finished with the 1 quart paint can. You will have eight 1/8" secondary air intake holes (evenly spaced) one inch below the top rim, and four 1/2" air intake holes around the bottom. 8 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

STEP 14. Now lets work on the 27 ounce food can. First take masking tape and wrap it around the top end (open end) of the can, 1/2" inch below the top edge. NOTE: I'm starting the measurement at the 1" mark. STEP 15. Make the air intake gaps in the top of the can. Using your high speed Dremel tool with cutting wheel, cut out and remove 4 evenly spaced air intake gaps around the top rim. Note the taller sections must be 1" wide. Cut the air intake gaps 1/2" down from the top rim, using the masking tape as a guide. For best performance DO NOT alter this design or measurements! You might be saying, why not drill a row of 1/2" holes just under the top rim. I have tested this design extensively and found that this design works far better than using holes. Trust me, this works much better! STEP 16. This step is optional. You can make an elevated fire grate in the bottom of the stove. This will allow you to use less wood when cooking, with a little better air flow into the burning chamber. However, you can use this stove without the grate. Doing so will allow you to use a more wood, which will give you longer burning times. The choice is yours. Using the stove without the fire crate is perferred in bad weather! To make the elevated fire gate insert four #6 by 1/2" long pan head sheet metal screws (evenly spaced) around the bottom of the can. They should be placed 1" up from the bottom edge. Use the 1/2" inch air intake holes as a guide for placement. 9 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

NOTE: depending on the screws used, you may have to grind the heads of the screws down a little (using your Dremel tool and grinding stone) in order for the 1 quart paint can to slide over without binding. Also, it's a good idea to use a little JB Weld (on the threads) to permanently secure the screws in the can. For a fire grate, cut out a piece of hardware cloth so it will slide into the can, resting on the 4 screws. Make the hardware cloth so it can be easily removed, to allow for more wood and longer burning times. STEP 17. Install the handles. Put the stove together by sliding the 1 quart paint can over the 27 ounce food can, lining up the seams in both cans. Next insert two #6 by 1/2" long pan head sheet metal screws just under the top rim of the paint can. Place them so they align in the middle of the air intake gaps on the inner can, one on each side of the stove. This will allow you to rotate the outer can to open and close the four main air intake holes on the bottom of the stove. Careful not to screw them in too far as to punch through the grove on the top of the paint can, this will interfere with the seating of the pot stand. STEP 18. Make the pot stand. Take a long piece of hardware cloth and cut it 4 rows high. Gently bend it in a circle so it fits inside the grove in the top of the 1 quart paint can. Bend over the tips so it interlocks into itself where the ends overlap. 10 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

You are finished building the Bushwhacker Wood Gas Stove! STEP 19. Make the windscreen. Take 3 long pieces of heavy duty aluminum foil, 2 feet long and layer them on top of each other. Three layers will give you a strong and long lasting windscreen. Fold over the ends two times for strength. Using a paper hole punch, puncture air intake holes along one end, 3/4" apart. The windscreen can be folded and wraped around the stove (secured with rubber bands) for storage. STORAGE. Place your pot stand inside the inner can (burning chamber) then slide the outer can (1 qt paint can) over the burning chamber. Fold and wrap the foil windscreen around the stove, securing with rubber bands. Place the top and bottom lids on the stove and secure with a rubber band(s). Note: the bottom lid was saved from step 1 above, the useage is explained in Video #2 below. 11 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

We also offer an otional 4 Cup Aluminum Mug that can be used for cooking and eating. It holds 40 ounces and weighs only 3.3 ounces. The Bushwhacker stove nests perfectly inside for storage. You can place the stove in a 4" x 9" nylon bag then slide it in the 4 cup mug for storage. Actual collapsed pack size of the stove is 4-1/4" wide x 4-7/8" high, weighing only 6.7 ounces (stove only). Assembled size is 4-1/4" wide x 6-3/4" high. 4 Cup Aluminum Mug weighs only 3.3 onces. - Watch Our Demo Videos - Video #1 - showing setup and use in moderate to warm climates, fair to good weather conditions or boiling small volumes of water 12 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM

Video #2 - showing setup and use in cold climates, bad weather conditions or boiling large volumes of water DISCLAIMER: Use common sense and safety at all times when using any stove. The author of this web page will not be responsible for any injury or damage resulting from constructing or use of this stove design. If you choose to build, use or experiment with this design, do so at your own risk. Always follow the laws, rules and regulations in your area, when it comes to building and using fires!. 13 of 14 7/15/08 1:27 AM