12 Short Wall Short wall between black slabs and the buttress. East Land 1332 SDS - Start left of big bowl shaped hueco on large low pocket, traverse right into hueco, and then straight up. 2. King of Swing 6 SDS - Sit down on the right side of a large hueco, on two matching holds that are flat and down sloping, but good. Left through hueco to sloping dish. Lost and Alone Buttress 25 foot predominately white wall by large cedar tree. The wall stands directly over the trail. Lost and Alone 4 High ball problem which starts on only good hold, sparse pockets. Leads up and right, finishes with hueco that is hidden from view. This clean face is just slightly overhung. Transient Wall Nicely pocketed grey slabs. The beginning of this wall is marked by a large capped roof and many orange flakes. Couch Surfing Where the capped roof ends, start on diagonal hold, then up through U shaped notch in roof. 2. agabond Just left of clean grey streak, 10 feet right of pink streak, finishes with thick flake. Below the juniper tree on top of the cliff. 3. Homeless Address 15 feet right of agabond, grey slab finishing at the cedar tree. Slide Wall 30 foot tall, less-than-vertical wall marked by prominent, sickle seam in the center of the wall. outes here are very high, so there are given ratings for top rope. Bring long slings to set anchors, or a big set of testicles. Slideways 5.10d 10 feet left of Slidewinder, light grey pockets and small tree. Top rope off of smaller grey trees. 2. Slidewinder 5.11c Up the sickle feature, then tricky traverse right and up. Top rope off of the cedar tree. 3. Unnamed 5.11a 10 feet right of Slidewinder. Steep pockets on black rock, exit right onto slab. Top rope off of trees to the right. Hog's Back Caves Past a jumble of boulders three teared bulges are found. The first is the largest, the second is marked by a huge sloper. Unnamed? Climb out large holds left center of first cave. So far this has not been sent. 2. Unnamed each or jump to slot, left to pocket. Top out left or right. 3. K7 4 SDS - Near the right side of roof. Start in deep black-stained slot. Pull out to horizontal seam, then up through a pocket, to a point. 4. Unnamed SDS - Start under roof just left of huge thread on right side of first cave. Climb up just on left side of the two big holes. 5. Unnamed 4 SDS - Start 6 feet right of large holes. Mass of pockets. Jackson's 5 SDS - Second gray streak with many pockets. 10. Body Crumbs 1 The Tarantula 5...these climbs are in the second cave 7. The Maid SDS - At beginning of second cave, up to lie back. 8. Mexican Affairs SDS - In the second cave. Start on red varnished hueco and low pocket. ight to pocket seam, and left and up following large features. 9. Slopes SDS - Start on Mexican Affairs, right then mantle prominent sloper....these final problems are beyond the second cave. SDS - Through orange trundle scars. SDS - Up to large square slot, then straight up. 12. Seren's Just left of small oak tree, small capstone on top. and present a little bouldering guide to ogers Park YankOnThis.com
ogers Park, Texas Another of the many limestone area around Austin, ogers Park offers a lot of problems, including many easy ones. Once again, be ready to pull on some nasty pockets. Some of the problems here can get pretty high, so it's good to come in a group with a few crashpads. The bouldering is by the Lake Belton and on warmer days, it's nice to go to the lake and take a swim in the cold water. How to get there: There are many ways to get to the crag, here is only one. You can also take a look at the map on page 3 and try something different. rom Austin, go North on I-35 and exit just before the town of Belton on Texas 12 Go left on loop 121, (you will pass a big sliver dome on your left). Continue on this road until you get to a T-intersection (just after an High School). Turn left on Main Street which will become road 439 and head towards Belton Dam. Turn right on m 2271 rd and cross Belton Dam. Stay on this road for 5 miles then turn right on ogers Park Ln (just after Bell County Sportsman Club). Then, make the first left on Mourning Dove Tr and drive until its end. Park at the gate. Take the trail to the right, then go left along the cliff band. All the areas are described from left to right. All the climbing is along the cliff band, so this guide doesn't need an overview. Also, some walls are not drawn but only described, with the problems from left to right. When there are no drawings, the text comes straight from yankonthis.com. When: rom October to early April. The wall doesn't get much sun so it may take a few days to dry. Therefore, it's better during dry weather. Eat: Belton is a pretty big city and has everything you need. Guidebooks: There are no official guidebooks. Our guide's most beta come from James Harrison and the website yankonthis.com Yankonthis.com has a forum, pics, videos and a lot of other beta on Central Texas. Thanks to Cody and Brie for showing me around on a rainy day. Austin to #1 to 5 2. 3. 4. Mah Habone Directly behind first tree, a hackberry. oad Napper Distemper Just left of crack. Chicken Chaser SDS - Just right of crack. 5. Shoots and Ladders or this pretty problem, start on Chicken Chaser then traverse right out of the deep slot and pull the bulge. This problem is left of the oak. Unknown SDS - Start on low jugs, go to small fin then to big oblong pocket. inish straight up. Dead Dogs Wall Pretty grey bulges, just past Little New Wall. The first section of the wall is between two large trees. 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Dusty oads 7. Wants and Needs 5 Start on small right-facing pocket at chest-level, go to high twofinger pocket then straight up. 8. Goods and Services 4 SDS - Good pockets in a white streak. 9. Unknown SDS - Start with three-finger pocket. Go slightly right with pockets then up to big slopey dish. 10. Dugout 7 SDS - Start with good undercling hueco, long reach to 2 pockets then right to hueco, then up and left to a mono then straight over the bulge. 1 The Unholdable Pinch project SDS - Start with huge hueco, climb straight through the bulge, pass a left-facing sloper, up to a pocket then the high pinch. 12. The Third Nipple 7 SDS - Huge hueco up to rail, then long reach to right-slanting crimp, then bump to the scoop and campus over it. Black Slabs Slightly less-than-vertical black wall 15 foot tall. Thin pockets on left side of black slab. 2. Muckle Up? In the center of the wall, double dyno off of two monos. 3. ictoria's Secret Can you find the secret? Light grey streak on right side of wall. 2 11
Little New Wall oad Map A nice wall with patches of ferns, reminiscent of the greenbelt. Marked by many diagonal blocky features. There are many eliminate problems here as well. Too many to list in this guide. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7,8 9,10 11 12 13 14,15 ogers Park Morgans Point Airport m 2483 Slam Dunk Step on the scooped face to get right hand on a sloper at the lip, left hand sidepull pocket. Match on a paddle then slam on the rounded top. 2. Stupid un Start left hand undercling thread then go right to baguette shaped hueco and top out straight up. 3. Unknown Start with low pocket. Go straight up on the left side of the small bulge. Sloper and two-finger pockets. 4. ire In the Belly 5 SDS - Choose your starting holds and go to left-facing/undercling curved hueco. inish up and left. 5. Unknown SDS - Start on jugs and climb the bulge with slopers and thin pockets. Bitch Slap 4 SDS - Start in triangular shaped hueco and climb just left of the tree. 7. Little New Wall Traverse 4 Start as Gratis but traverse right the entire wall. 8. Gratis SDS - Start in two slots five feet right of three. Go up and right to block then finish in Un Poco. 9. Un Poco Start on wide juggy hueco. Go up and left to slanting sloper then straight to block and top out. 10. Que Lindo Start as Un Poco but trend right through the bulge. Top out if you dare. 1 El Jardin Start by the small right-facing corner and go up to pocketed seam. 12. Sunday Stroll Start on low undercling. each right hand to good pocket then go straight up. 13. Mono Bruiser Eliminate. SDS - Start on low jug, right hand mono then up to jug. 14. Con Cuidado Start in big window, go up and left to right-facing flake. Match on jug them jump off. 15. Nada Start as Con Cuidado but go straight up. Scary top out. Belton Lake General Walker Expy Loop 121 Connell St m 439 Belton m 2271 Main St m 2305 Beal St m 436 Main St 131 Charter Oak Dr 35 Adams Ave Kegley Ln Airport d Temple To Dallas W Avenue L 190 35 35 To Austin 6 3
Little Cave The first bouldering wall you reach, marked by seamy cracks and a dwarf sized cave. The prominent feature of this wall is a wide right arching dihedral. The wall itself is about 12 foot tall. The Pit (aka Trash Can Wall) Big gray sweeping overhangs, above the back of the cove, the first major roof after Billiards Wall. The Pit marks the half way point of the bouldering at oger's Park. Several awe inspiring lines are found here. 1 2 3 General Malaise 4 SDS - Start on low crumbly hueco. Go right hand sloper sidepull then reach way high. 2. Serpentine Traverse Climb the rounded arete formed by the left side of the cave. 3. Jaws Start with the arching crack then go straight in the middle of the roof with pockets and a thin seam. 4 The lake 5 6 4. inger Crack Climb the finger crack in the small left-facing corner. 5. Bozo SDS - Start with sinker pockets and climb the short bulge. The Chin Small dihedral topped by a tiny roof. 7. Unnamed 20 feet right of the chin, slab below cedar tree with sparse pockets. The first large wall, around 25 feet tall, marked by a huge flake that splits the left side of the wall. The right side is slightly overhanging with gray streaks. 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Choppy Seas Start on orange right-facing flake. Traverse left on pockets all the way then step off on the last rock. 2. project? Climb to the deep round hueco in the roof then go straight out. 3. project? Start on high sharp jug. Go straight to thin pocket then pull the roof and go right. 4. Lopsang Dilemma 6 SDS - Start on huge hueco, traverse left for 6 feet on good pockets then up to oblong pocket and top out. 5. each Problem 4 SDS - Start as Lopsang Dilemma but go straight to huge undercling then make a long reach to the lip and top out. Tao 7 Subtle prow with gland hueco with long green stain. Start with left hand in high mono stack and right hand on bad sidepull. 7. Unknown Start with high sidepulls pockets. Cross right hand over to an undercling then trend left to slopers at the lip. 8. Zen 5 SDS - Start on big right-facing hueco and go up to right-facing flake. 9. Catlin 6 SDS - Start as Zen but go right to a thin left-facing seam. 10. Acoustic Elvis 10 5 SDS - Start on broken shelf. Crimp pockets and go straight to a dyno to sharp hueco. Jump off. Pocket Jockey Starts on protusion by leaning tree. 2. Bake lake SDS - Start near the center of the flake, top out where the capstone is cracked. 3. Test the lake SDS -Low Start then up large huecos in center of wall finishing on right side of The lake. 4. Phillips 1 Just right of Test The lake. 5. Nettle 20 feet right of Test The lake, starts on thin pockets, tops out on right side large detached block. Phillips 2 Light gray streak 10 feet right of Nettle. 7. Put your shoes on Subtle streak 5 feet right of Phillips 2. Located just before the wall becomes drastically shorter. 4 9
Suicide un ifteen foot buttress which stands over the trail. ery rocky landing. 2. Unnamed inger crack in dihedral just right of Suicide un. Suicide Zone The next small overhang past Billiards Wall. 5. Unnamed Grey dihedral to the left of big slopey. Big Slopey Just left of Beached Whale. Move up big sloping ledges. 1 2 3 4 5-7 8 Abase Wall The next large overhang, the right side is a steep, black, nearly featureless cave. 3. Aunt Jemima Slopey slab between two dihedrals with finger cracks. 4. Suicide Traverse Traverse seam left to right, or vice versa. 7. Beached Whale Start in round pocket at arm length. 9 10 Senior uerte (see Billiards Wall) 2. Maui Wowey Starts in alcove in left side of the wall. T Seam Starts in T shaped seam. Sidepull near the top. Wall Pequeño Unimposing wall reached after passing several smaller walls beyond the suicide zone. It has a bunch of easy problems. ounded Wall Bulgy, slightly overhanging wall. The top of the wall slabs out. 5. Baking Brownies 5 feet right of Too High. Sunny Side Up Unnamed Pockets above the long block. 2. Unnamed Start with a square 2 finger-pocket and go up to big pockets. 3. Scales 6 SDS - Start on spook eyes. Go up to a high jug via bad 2 fingerpockets. 4. Desert Storm Trainer SDS - Start on small turkey leg shaped hueco, go to big pocket over the bulge then finish left on more pockets. 5. Abase SDS - Start as Abash but traverse left to finish as Desert Storm Trainer. Abash SDS - Start with brown jugs under the roof. Go straight to big wide hueco and finish straight on more big pockets. 7. Devine He-Ha 7 SDS - Start as Abash but traverse right to 2 two-finger-pockets then a good mono and freakin lock off all the way to hueco straight over the mono. 8. eflection Eternal 9 SDS - Start with right-facing hueco, pull to edges, traverse left on weird holds then long move out left to jugs. Top out straight. 9. The Tree Enima? Start on small block and jump to high edge above the bulge. Campus to pocket then climb with the small tree behind you. 10. project hard A proud line of thin pockets, traverses slightly left and pulls into deep slot just before slab. 3. Time elease T.H.C. Just left of large tree growing from the base of the wall. 4. Too High Deep huecos just behind tree. Cruxy slab. 7. Ant arm Left hand light grey water mark, slightly less-than-vertical. 8. Zero Not Hero ight hand water mark. 8 5
Billiards Wall This is the continuation of Abase Wall. 2 6 7 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 to #20 1 3 4 5 8 9 Senior uerte 6 SDS - Start on right-facing holds, go to flake, traverse left for 6 feet on pockets then go up on more pockets. 2. Starburst 7 SDS - Direct start to Senior uerte. Start on left-facing hold under the roof. Go to two-finger-pockets then into Senior uerte. 3. ile Betrayer SDS - Start as Senior uerte but don't go to the flake. Go straight through the bulge and dyno to the higher pockets. 4. Impact Addict 4 Climb up to a real high hueco, get pockets inside the hueco and make a long reach to a sloper. Get a bunch of pads. 5. Unknown Go up to high pockets and dyno to top. Billiards wall traverse 5 Start low and right by tree, the same start as Glory Putri, traverse left on pockets, finishing Impact Addict. 7. Glory Putri SDS - Start on rail, go to big pockets then right-facing feature and up to horizontal crack. 8. Hump Problem Start on pockets then dyno up to the obvious hump, then pull over. 9. oxy Doxy Tall black dihedral with ferns in it. 10. The ifth Commandment 5 SDS - Start on the shelf under oxy Doxy and traverse right to the orange stained hueco. inish by Muffin Man. 1 Larapase Man SDS - Start on big edge then go up on good pockets. 12. Muffin Man? ight hand two-finger sloper, campus to a big left-facing edge then finish straight up. 13. project? Left hand mono, right hand bad two-finger pocket, go to sharp three-finger-pocket then straight up. 14. Jungle ever 7 Starts matched in round hole with two finger pocket, the next hold is also a two finger. inishes on the good holds on the face. 15. Unknown? Start with 2 pockets above your head, go to big spook eyes. 1 Pinch Problem 4 Start on big oval shaped hueco. Go right to pinch and finish up and left. 17. Happy trail 8 SDS - Start on two-finger-pockets and climb the clean overhanging face with pockets. 18. The Scream Obvious line with the 2 gold streaked huecos up to scary top out over a bad landing. 19. General Hospital A line of good pockets. 20. Unnamed 15 feet right of General Hospital, just left of small tree. 6 7