WILDERNESS FOR MISSOURI

WILDERNESS FOR MISSOURI Completing a Conservation Legacy Summary and Fact Sheets Presented to The Office of Senator Christopher Kit Bond c/o John Stoody Prepared by: The Missouri Wilderness Coalition July 30, 2007

ENDORSEMENTS Proposal for Seven Wilderness Areas in Missouri July, 2007 Alpine Shop, St. Louis Audubon Missouri Cedar Creek Landowners, Ashland Columbia Audubon Society Conservation Federation of Missouri East Ozarks Audubon, Farmington Heartwood, St. Louis L-A-D Foundation Missouri Chapter, Sierra Club (including regional groups in St. Louis, Kansas City, Columbia, and Cape Girardeau) Missouri Coalition for the Environment Missouri Forest Alliance Missouri Parks Association Missouri Parks and Recreation Association Missouri Whitewater Association Missouri Wilderness Coalition Ozark Greenways, Springfield Ozark Society (Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma, and Louisiana) St. Louis Audubon Society 2

BACKGOUND AND INTRODUCTION In 1964 Congress established a National Wilderness Preservation System. Missouri has participated in and benefited from this program. In the 1970 s a broad-based campaign was undertaken, under the general leadership of an informal alliance called the Missouri Wilderness Coalition, to explore, define, and promote the remaining remnants of wilderness on the federal lands of Missouri, primarily the Mark Twain National Forest. Much of this work was stimulated and shaped by a 1970 s Forest Service initiative, the Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II, or RARE II. Participating energetically in the RARE II program, Missouri conservationists surveyed, field-checked, and evaluated what remained of Missouri s National Forest resources. By 1978, the conclusion of this process was clear: there were fourteen areas on the Mark Twain Forest that had nationally important wilderness values. Between 1976 and 1984 Mingo Wilderness on the Mingo National Wildlife Refuge, plus seven of the fourteen Mark Twain areas Hercules Glades, Bell Mountain, Rockpile Mountain, Piney Creek, Devil s Backbone, Paddy Creek, and the Irish Wilderness were designated by Congress as federal Wilderness Areas, with bi-partisan support. These eight areas total a modest 71,356 acres and have proven to be a major asset for Missouri. The remaining seven Forest Service areas have not been forgotten or neglected. A core group of public land conservationists have worked to protect them under administrative guidelines. Since about 1985 the Forest Service has referred to them as the Seven Sensitive Areas, and their integrity has been substantially undisturbed. In the meantime, additional information has been developed that confirms and reinforces their values as wilderness. This report describes and maps each of these seven areas. They are: Big Spring, in Carter County (part National Park Service, part National Forest Service) Lower Rock Creek, in Madison and Iron Counties North Fork, in Ozark, Howell, and Douglas Counties Smith Creek, in Callaway and Boone Counties Spring Creek, in Douglas and Howell Counties Swan Creek, in Christian County Van East Mountain, in Madison and Iron Counties Total acreage 8,048 acres 12,955 acres 8,009 acres 2,195 acres 6,730 acres 9,366 acres 2,020 acres 49,323 acres Unfortunately, in 2005 the Forest Service adopted a new Forest Plan which places these seven areas at risk. The new plan strips the seven areas of the Sensitive Area status they have had for more than 20 years, and designates them instead as Management Prescription 6.1, which provides some protection; but without the overlay of the previous Sensitive Area classification, they are much less secure. The new plan also liberalizes the salvage logging provisions, and adopts a much more aggressive policy in favor of various forms of landscape manipulation and vehicular-based management techniques. 3

The 2005 Forest Plan caused great concern among Missouri s conservationists, and several appeals were filed, in the hope that a settlement agreement would result in at least a continuation of the pre-2005 levels of protection. In the end, the appeal process failed to achieve meaningful results. In the meantime, there was on-the-ground evidence that the changes in the new Forest Plan had real and negative consequences. In two of the areas, Lower Rock Creek and Smith Creek, actions have been proposed or taken to conduct salvage timber sales, bulldoze seven miles of new fireline, and bulldoze a stretch of existing trail into a de-facto restored road. The Missouri conservation community has now reached a firm consensus that the administrative approach for the management of these seven areas must be bolstered by Congressional direction and the provisions of the National Wilderness Preservation System. With the time and experience that has accumulated in the past quarter-century, the information base is now more than strong enough to move forward with legislation. They are ready now to join the first generation of Missouri Wilderness, and Missouri is ready to complete this unfinished chapter of our conservation legacy. 4

STATEWIDE AND NATIONAL FOREST SUMMARY INFORMATION Statewide Forest Facts. The state of Missouri has 44 million acres, with about one-third of that forested. Most of this forestland is in private ownership, with about 15% owned either by the federal government (Mark Twain National Forest 1.5 million acres) or state government. Existing Wilderness Designations in Missouri. Beginning in 1964 certain areas of the United States began to be considered for wilderness, with most of the earliest areas designated from the western states. Later, areas were designated in eastern states as well. There are currently 8 Wilderness Areas totaling 71,357 acres; Mingo Wilderness is 7,730 acres and is administered by the US Fish and Wildlife Service. The Mark Twain Forest has all the rest: Bell Mountain, Devils Backbone, Hercules Glades, Irish Wilderness, Paddy Creek, Piney Creek, and Rockpile Mountain. These areas were designated between 1976 and 1984. 5

Acres Missouri Forested Land and Federal Wilderness (Includes ONSR and Mingo) 16,000,000 14,000,000 14,000,000 12,000,000 10,000,000 8,000,000 Acres 6,000,000 4,000,000 2,478,900 2,000,000 0 Missouri Forested Land (Entire State Is 44 Million) Federal and State Ownership 71,357 49,323 120,680 Designated Wilderness Areas Proposed Wilderness Areas Total Wilderness Areas Impact on the Mark Twain National Forest. The existing and proposed wilderness acreage on the Mark Twain National Forest totals 108,985 acres or less than 7.3% of Missouri s Mark Twain National Forest. Altogether these lands amount to less than 0.078% of Missouri s statewide forest acreage. Timber Considerations. These seven areas have been recognized for more than 2-1/2 decades by the US Forest Service as sensitive areas and managed under the roadless designation of 6.1. During this long period of time, they have been removed from the harvestable timber base. Thus, this wilderness proposal represents virtually no impact whatsoever on the commercial forest industry of Missouri. Unfortunately, the 2005 Forest Plan strips these areas of their long-established sensitive area status, and redesignates them under general 6.1 provisions, which although still not in the regular Mark Twain timber base, provide less protection. The plan also liberalizes salvage logging guidelines and exposes these areas to such activities. These changes result in much less protection for these areas than they have had since the RARE II inventory was conducted in 1978. PILT Impacts. The Mark Twain National Forest makes payments in lieu of taxes to all Missouri counties where Forest Service lands are located. These payments are calculated in part based on revenues generated from the forest, and are distributed based on the acreage of Forest Service property in each county. PILT payments are not based on the revenues generated in a particular county. PILT payments to Missouri counties in 2005 totaled $1.4 million and are expected to grow (FEIS, Forest Plan, 2005). This wilderness proposal will have no effect on this payment statewide, or to any individual county. 6

Acres Mark Twain National Forest Acreage (Does not include ONSR or Mingo) 1,600,000 1,496,000 1,400,000 1,200,000 1,000,000 800,000 MTNF Acres 600,000 400,000 200,000 63,198 45,787 108,985 0 Total Mark Twain National Forest Designated Wilderness On MTNF Proposed Wilderness On MTNF Designated and Proposed Wilderness Areas on MTNF Impact on Private Land. There are a limited number of privately-owned tracts within the boundaries of five of the seven areas. Since 1976, there also have been a few such tracts within the Congressionally designated wilderness areas in Missouri, and the Coalition is aware of no conflicts that have come about as a result. The proposed areas will be administered under the same laws and guidelines, which protect landowners from eminent domain, protect existing access, and generally provide for good neighbor relationships between the landowners and the public. Grazing and Haying. There are very few acres allotted for grazing or haying on the Mark Twain. The only allotments on the seven areas of this proposal of which the Coalition is aware are on the Swan Creek area. These allotments are being phased out as per the Forest Plan and would not be affected by wilderness designation. Thus, this wilderness proposal will have no effect on haying, grazing, or the cattle industry in Missouri. Minerals. There are no outstanding mineral leases known to the Missouri Wilderness Coalition on any of the seven areas. Thus this proposal will have no known effect on the mineral industry in the state of Missouri. 7

Recreation Use. Each of these seven areas currently hosts wilderness-compatible recreation uses, including hiking, backpacking, equestrian, walk-in hunting and fishing, nature study, canoeing, and photography. With very few and restricted exceptions, these areas have already been designated for non-motorized use for more than twenty-five years. The Missouri Wilderness Coalition is seeking to work with all user groups to achieve and maintain consensus on wilderness recreation opportunities on all these areas into the future. Economic Values. The Forest Service reports that there are 62,000 visitor days per year on Mark Twain Forest Wilderness Areas. They also report an economic value of these visits at $41.87 per visitor per day (FEIS 2005: 3-284, 3-285). This totals more than $2.5 million annually of economic value to Missouri of the current Forest Service Wilderness Areas. Based on these numbers, it is reasonable to presume that the proposed new Wilderness will generate comparable additional visitation and economic value for the state of Missouri. In fact, if we presume that the new wilderness acreage generates visitation at the same rate as on the existing areas, they would add $1.8 million per year, and the resulting combined economic value of all Forest Service Wilderness to Missouri would be $4.3 million annually. 8

AREA FACT SHEETS Big Spring Wilderness Area Lower Rock Creek Wilderness Area North Fork Wilderness Area Smith Creek Wilderness Area Spring Creek Wilderness Swan Creek Wilderness Area Van East Mountain Wilderness Area 9

BIG SPRING WILDERNESS Overview. Part of the watershed for the largest freshwater spring in North America. Big Spring Wilderness will help protect water quality in Big Spring which is just outside the wilderness and a major tourist attraction. Includes one of the finest stands of mature oak-pine forest in Missouri, a 345-acre area known as the Big Spring Pines Natural Area. The wilderness surrounds and protects this superlative sample of Ozark old growth forest. Because of the unusual character of Ozark topography, vegetation, and road locations, opportunities for accessible road-side vistas are extremely rare. The location of Sky-Line Drive along the north boundary of this wilderness offers just such a vista, the only such easy to reach vista access to the motoring public among all Missouri wilderness. This provides outstanding wilderness threshold views across the rugged wooded hills of this area, plus outstanding opportunities for interpretation of Ozark landscapes and the Wilderness program. Approximately 6 miles of Missouri s Ozark Trail crosses through the Mark Twain National Forest portion of the area, and currently supports hiking and equestrian use, which will continue under wilderness. The National Park Service portion of this area is being evaluated for possible management as wilderness in the current development of a General Management Plan for the Ozark National Scenic Riverways. Included within Current and Jack s Fork Watershed Important Bird Area. Proposed Wilderness acreage. 4,512 acres (Mark Twain National Forest) 3,536 acres (National Park Service) 10

Acres Big Spring Wilderness Area 350,000 325,546 300,000 250,000 200,000 Acres 150,000 100,000 50,000 0 Carter County Total Acres 8,048 Total Proposed Wilderness (federally owned public land) Previous Public Comment. During the 1977-78 Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II (RARE II), the Forest Service analyzed potential wilderness on the Mark Twain Forest. Even though the agency did not list Big Spring during the public input process, they still reported 76 write-in comments from Missourians about Big Spring, all of which favored wilderness or wilderness study. 11

BIG SPRING WILDERNESS 12

BIG SPRING WILDERNESS 13

Acres LOWER ROCK CREEK WILDERNESS AREA Overview. Most significant remaining example of a complete and unspoiled stream watershed landscape in the St. Francois Mountain Region. Most scenic and pristine canyon/valley in the St. Francois Mountain Region, also known as Dark Hollow. Largest remaining undesignated wildland on the Mark Twain National Forest. Popular destination for botanical outings, hiking, and birdwatching. Access from several trailheads and potential trailheads, including Silver Mines and Marble Creek. Part of Upper St. Francois Watershed Important Bird Area. Proposed Wilderness acreage. 12,955 acres (Mark Twain National Forest) Lower Lower Rock Rock Creek Creek Wilderness Wilderness Area Study Area 400,000 350,000 300,000 318,383 353,218 250,000 200,000 Acres 150,000 100,000 50,000 0 Madison County Total Acres 12,015 Proposed Wilderness Madison County Iron County Total Acres 940 Proposed Wilderness Iron County 12,955 Total Proposed Wilderness (federally owned public land) 14

Previous Public Comment. During the 1977-78 Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II (RARE II), the Forest Service analyzed potential wilderness on the Mark Twain Forest. Even though the agency did not list Lower Rock Creek during the public input process, they still reported 118 write-in comments from Missourians about Lower Rock Creek, all of which favored wilderness or wilderness study. 15

LOWER ROCK CREEK WILDERNESS AREA 16

LOWER ROCK CREEK WILDERNESS AREA 17

Acres NORTH FORK WILDERNESS Overview. Outstanding example of deeply dissected Ozark ridges and valleys along both sides of an unspoiled, spring-fed, small Ozark river. Habitat for endangered gray bats The Ozark Trail, Missouri s longest hiking trail, crosses through the area with approximately 8 miles within the proposed wilderness boundary. Well established, wilderness-dependent recreation use including hiking, horseback riding, canoeing, and walk-in hunting. Included within the North Fork Woodland and Forest Important Bird Area. Proposed Wilderness acreage. 8,009 acres (Mark Twain National Forest) North Fork Wilderness Area 700,000 600,000 593,788 500,000 483,132 521,170 400,000 300,000 Acres 200,000 100,000 0 Ozark County Total Acres 4,870 Proposed Howell County Wilderness Total Acres Ozark County 18 2,980 Proposed Wilderness Howell County Douglas County Total Acres 159 8,009 Proposed Wilderness Douglas County Total Proposed Wilderness (federally owned public land)

Previous Public Comment. During the 1977-78 Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II (RARE II), the Forest Service analyzed potential wilderness on the Mark Twain Forest. Even though the agency did not list the North Fork area during the public input process, they still reported 95 write-in comments from Missourians about North Fork, all of which favored wilderness or wilderness study. 19

NORTH FORK WILDERNESS 20

NORTH FORK WILDERNESS 21

Acres SMITH CREEK WILDERNESS Overview. Fragile limestone formations along Cedar and Smith Creeks, including bluffs, pinnacles, buttresses, ledges, overhangs, and arches. Central location offers wilderness experience close to home for residents of the growing Missouri cities of Columbia, Jefferson City, and Fulton. Well-established wildland dependent recreation use including hiking, birdwatching, hunting, and spring wildflower walks. Part of Central Missouri Hills Important Bird Area. The unusually intact forest character of this area provides for biodiversity, wildlife corridors, and wildland recreation opportunities which are unusual in this region of Missouri. Proposed Wilderness Acreage. 2,195 acres (Mark Twain National Forest) Smith Creek Wilderness Area 600,000 541,918 500,000 442,120 400,000 300,000 Acres 200,000 100,000 0 Callaway County Total Acres 1,970 Proposed Wilderness Callaway County Boone County Total Acres 225 2,195 Proposed Wilderness Boone County Total Proposed Wilderness (federally owned public land) 22

Previous Public Comment. During the 1977-78 Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II (RARE II), the Forest Service analyzed potential wilderness on the Mark Twain Forest. Even though the agency did not list Smith Creek during the public input process, they still reported 79 write-in comments from Missourians about Smith Creek, all of which favored wilderness or wilderness study. Smith Creek Wilderness from 2.5 miles up shows contrast with more developed surrounding lands. 23

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Acres SPRING CREEK WILDERNESS Overview. Unmatched in Missouri for the abundance of spring-fed permanent streams with cool deep pools. One of the best examples in the state of deeply entrenched, dissected Ozark topography, with features including dolomite bluffs, devils backbone, hogback ridges, and deep, narrow valleys. Proximity to picturesque and historic Noblett Lake which forms ideal wilderness threshold and convenient trailhead for popular Ridge Runner Trail. Part of North Fork Woodland and Forest Important Bird Area. Proposed Wilderness acreage. 6,730 acres (Mark Twain National Forest) Spring Creek Wilderness Area 700,000 600,000 593,788 521,170 500,000 400,000 Acres 300,000 200,000 100,000 0 Douglas County Total Acres 4,545 Proposed Wilderness Douglas County Howell County Total Acres 2,185 6,730 Proposed Wilderness Howell County Total Proposed Wilderness (federally owned public land) 26

Previous Public Comment. Spring Creek was under review by the Forest Service as part of their 1977-78 Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II (RARE II). This review included an invitation for public comment, and Spring Creek received a total of 101 comments from Missourians, of which 97, or 96%, favored wilderness or wilderness study. Wilderness Attribute Rating. The Rare II study included Forest Service analysis of wilderness attributes (WARS) for inventoried roadless areas, including Spring Creek. Spring Creek scored a rating of 18, which compared favorably with several Missouri areas subsequently designated by Congress as Wilderness. 27

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Acres SWAN CREEK WILDERNESS Overview. Adjacent to one of the clearest and purest of all Ozark streams, Swan Creek. East boundary follows dramatic escarpment separating Swan Creek Breaks to the west from the rolling Ava Plains to the east. Long-established wilderness-quality equestrian use and tradition. Equestrian camp and trail just outside western boundary. Part of White River Glades and Woodlands Important Bird Area. This intact tract contrasts sharply with regional landscape changes due to either forest clearing, or to intensive off-road vehicle use on nearby Forest Service lands. Proposed Wilderness Acreage. 9,366 acres (Mark Twain National Forest) Swan Creek Wilderness Area 400,000 350,000 360,867 300,000 250,000 200,000 Acres 150,000 100,000 50,000 0 Christian County Total Acres 9,366 Total Proposed Wilderness (federally owned public land) 30

Previous Public Comment. Swan Creek was under review by the Forest Service as part of their 1977-78 Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II (RARE II). This review included an invitation for public comment, and Swan Creek received a total of 133 comments from Missourians, of which 123, or 93%, favored wilderness or wilderness study. Wilderness Attribute Rating. The Rare II study included Forest Service analysis of wilderness attributes (WARS) for inventoried roadless areas, including Swan Creek. Swan Creek scored a rating of 20, which ranked as high as any area in Missouri subsequently designated by Congress as Wilderness. Swan Creek Wilderness from 5 miles up shows contrast with regional land clearing and with the nearby ATV area at Chadwick. 31

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Acres VAN EAST MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS AREA Overview. Four distinct biological communities of unusually high quality resulting in identification by a 1970 s University of Missouri study as one of southeast Missouri s outstanding natural areas. Includes two multi-knobbed and unspoiled named mountains, Brown and Van East Mountains, superbly representative of the ancient St. Francois Mountains Region. Exceptional native vegetation throughout the area, including rose azalea, endemic to the Ozarks. Part of the Upper St. Francois River Watershed Important Bird Area. Proposed Wilderness Acreage. 2020 acres (Mark Twain National Forest) Van East Mountain Wilderness Area Study Area 400,000 350,000 300,000 318,383 353,210 250,000 200,000 Acres 150,000 100,000 50,000 0 Madison County 1,690 Proposed Wilderness Madison County Iron County 330 2,020 Proposed Wilderness Iron County Total Proposed Wilderness 34

Previous Public Comment. Van East Mountain was under review by the Forest Service as part of their 1977-78 Roadless Area Review and Evaluation II (RARE II). This review included an invitation for public comment, and Van East Mountain received a total of 63 comments from Missourians all of which favored wilderness or wilderness study. 35

VAN EAST MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS AREA 36

VAN EAST MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS AREA 37

ADDITIONAL NOTES Private Land Totals For Each Proposed Area Big Spring Wilderness, 146 acres Lower Rock Creek Wilderness, 2075 acres North Fork Wilderness, 21 acres Smith Creek Wilderness, 0 acres Spring Creek Wilderness, 280 acres Swan Creek Wilderness, 0 acres Van East Mountain Wilderness, 480 acres Information Credits The Important Bird Areas Program is a global effort to protect wild birds and is coordinated in Missouri by Audubon Missouri. We wish to acknowledge National Geographic s TOPO software used to produce each of the maps (pages 2, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26) in this report; certain calculations on boundaries and acreage was further checked using ArcView software. Missouri Forest Facts, produced by Missouri Department of Conservation, and accessed through the agencies website was the source for total forested acres in Missouri. Wikipedia was our online source for the county area (km 2 ) for each Missouri County which was then converted to acres. Information on existing wilderness areas was gathered from several sources, the most important were: the Mark Twain National Forest (MTNF) Analysis of Management Situation (2003), the 2005 Mark Twain Forest Plan, www.wilderness.net, the website for the Mark Twain National Forest, and the MTNF brochure for the Irish Wilderness. Records pertaining to public comment on the areas reported here and the USFS Wilderness Attributes Rating System (WARS) for Spring Creek and Swan Creek are from the Midland States Supplement to the DRAFT Environmental Impact Statement Roadless Area Review and Evaluation, June 1978, USDA Forest Service Eastern Region 9. Public input information and response for each area was obtained from original documents provided by Mark Twain National Forest, October 25, 1978. 38