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Content Introduction of Interlining -------------------------------------------------------------------------P. 2 Function of Interlining ------------------------------------------------------------------------------P. 3 Type of Interlining -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------P. 4 Comparison table of fusible and non-fusible (sew in) interlining ------------------------P. 5 Mechanism of Fusing Process --------------------------------------------------------------------P. 6 Fusing Procedure Tips ------------------------------------------------------------------------------P. 7 Selection of interlining -----------------------------------------------------------------------------P. 8
Introduction of Interlining Interlining is one type of trimmings. It is placed between two layers of fabric in apparel. It is fused or sewn in onto a specific area. It is the most extensively used trimmings in apparel. Generally, interlinings can be made soft and thin or stiff and thick. They can be stretchable or rigid for different garment application. Some are designed to be fused, while others are intended to be sewn to one or two layers of the textile. As an inner lining applied in a garment, it is used in a number of applications. Though the consumer never sees it, it is the difference between a good winter coat and a great one, or lush full drapes and listless hanging fabrics.
Function of interlining Function Making a Functional, Lasting, Easy to Wear Product Description Interlining reduce the occurrence of stretching, creasing and wear in garment production. After using the fusing technique, it makes garment production easier to sew, the clothing can achieve shape and long term performance while the consumers get a good quality product that is easy to care for, looks good and is easy to wear. When interlining applied to seams it will strengthen seam from slippage adding strength with resistance. Retaining Shape and Improving Materials Appearance Increase Production Garment has better outlook for longer periods of time while still being comfortable. The use of interlining helps fabric appearance to retain the garment shape. An appropriate fusing can make garments keep their shape no matter how often they are worn or washed. Previously the process of tailoring had to be done by hands and was only a job for skilled people. Nowadays with the fusing process, everybody can make the same product as a skilled tailor does, just with one layer of interlining. Because of the speed of industrial sewing machines, the material must be in perfect shape before sewing so that the machine operator does not have to reshape the piece before or during the sewing. If interlining is fused onto fabrics before sewing, it keeps fabric panel shape, and save time and labor cost.
Type of interlining There are 2 types of Interlinings: Interlining Fusible Interlining It is most popular used interlining. The interlining is fused on fabrics by applying heat, pressure and certain time, that is called Fusible Interlining. Fusible Interlining is popular with some advantage given below: Interlining can standardize the hand feel and appearance, in order to keep the similarities among the garments. Application process is very easy. It has high productivity when sewing is made easier with fusible interlining. Various hands and thicknesses can be achieved to meet design needs by using different base clothes and coatings. Non Fusible (sew-in) Interlining The interlining is used between two layers of fabrics directly by sewing without heat and pressure that is called Non Fusible Interlining. This type of interlining is also called Sew In Interlining. Non Fusible (sew in) is used for special case. The application field is given below. Non-fusible interlining used in Flame retardant apparel. It is used for fire service people or used for making safety apparels for people who works in re-rolling mills. Application for embroidery machine. It is used when fusing cannot be achieved by fusible interlining on certain special fabrics, with coating or finishing.
Comparison table of fusible and non-fusible (sew in) interlining: Parameters Fusible interlining Non Fusible (sew in) interlining Cost Labor cost low High temperature is required for fusing Labor cost high Temperature is not required process Machinery Special machine is required (fusing machine) No special machine is required Productivity Suitable for large production Not applicable for large production Price Higher Less expensive
Mechanism of Fusing Process In fusing process, GLUE (Coating) on the Interlining become soft like Jelly (GEL- status) when heated up to the Melting-Point and penetrate into fabric and spread when it is pressed.
Fusing Procedure Tips Ensure the fusing machine is properly heated up before starting bulk production every day or shift. Test using same bulk panels. Interlining must be at 2mm shorter all around the fabric panel to be fused. Never cut interlining large than the fabric to avoid glue contaminates the conveyor belt and fabric. 2-3mm smaller than shell fabric Shell fabric Interlining Use carrier sheets (Telfon paper) while loading the fusing panels to ensure that the panel is not moved while loading. Fusing conditions (temperature, pressure and dwell time) must be applied correctly otherwise any incorrect fusing conditions will result in poor fused panels and probably quality claim. Never use sandwich or multi-layer fusing to save time. This will cause in poor fusing like bubbling or delamination. Interlining must always be fused with interlining on top of the fabric and not upside down. Fusing machine must be maintained in good condition, regular checkup and proper maintenance scheme is highly recommended. If fusing by hand iron, then iron must be placed firmly with certain body weight and must not be slided across the panel. Do not let cold air blow around fusing machine, a well- ventilated area with constant room temperature is required for proper fusing.
Selection of Interlining : a SAFE approach To consider a proper interlining applied on a particular fabric based on below aspects. Style Application Fabrics Effectiveness Aspects Style Application Fabric Effectiveness Considering factors End-product characteristic formal or casual Garment outlook requires light or heavy, firm or soft Garment areas to be applied Small parts - collar, placket, cuff. Large parts - Full front What composition and type of the fabric is Overall appearance on finished garment soft, medium or heavy