Shark Guard Installation
In the Package When you receive your Shark Guard, verify that nothing was damaged in shipping. Here is a current list of parts that should be included with a standard Felder and Hammer saw packages. You won't find a printed manual inside the box. This is cost reduction to you. It's Greener and also allows you to get the most up to date information by viewing this online. Please print out the PDF instructions from the link above. The guard Clamp and knob assembly Two riving knives Shark face decals Other accessories you may have ordered
Riving Knife Lets start with the riving knife. This is the heart of this guard system and will be used most often. I suggest you apply some Johnson's Paste wax or Minwax Paste wax to the riving knife. This should be done periodically to clean and protect the riving knife and to slick up the surfaces to reduce friction. DISCONNECT THE POWER SOURCE. NEVER COUNT ON YOUR SWITCH ALONE TO CONTROL THE POWER WHEN WORKING ON MACHINERY. THEY CAN FAIL. Currently, this riving knife is designed to mount very much like your OEM blade guard. It utilizes the mounting hardware and mounting point inside the throat plate and behind the saw blade away from the operator. Remove your throat plate. It may also be easier initially to remove the saw blade as well. This would be a good time to clean out the inside of your saw. Remove any knife or guard that you have mounted now. There are two riving knives that come with the SG package. These are for 10 and 12 inch blades. The top of the SG riving knife has to remain parallel to the table top in order to work properly. It shouldn't take any longer to swap out the riving knives than it would to adjust the orignal knife when changing blades, so this difference should not cost any time.
Insert the riving knife you intend to use following the instructions in your saws Operator's manual. The big knife is for 12 inch blades. The knives are engraved to help tell them apart at a glance. The RK should sit so that the top is level or parallel with the table top and just shy of as high as the blade teeth. There is only a 1/16" difference or less between the top of the RK and the blade height. A scrap piece of material can help check this difference, but you could use different types of measuring devices. See images above. Check to make sure that you have clearance at the top, back and at the blade teeth along the front arc of the RK. Spin the blade carefully by hand to check for any contact. Sight down the front of the blade or use a straight edge ruler to determine that the splitter is trailing behind the blade. It should not be outside the blade path or blades teeth when checked with a straight edge front to back. These guards are designed to be used just a bit different than the original. Aside from the other features of easy removal and versatility, they feature a hold down. You must set the guard height every time you change material thickness. This insure that the stock will feed under the guard as well as have that extra safety of the clamp acting as a hold down device. This prevents the stock from lifting off the table. Lifting stock is how most kickbacks start, so setting this each time provides both smooth operation of the guard as well as the extra protection not afforded by the factory guard. It is imperative that the guard be at the correct height for the material that you are cutting. You must set the guard for the material thickness each time you change to a different thickness. Feeding the wrong thickness material can be dangerous. It can stop material in mid
cut. Always check or adjust the guard height for material being cut. This is designed this way so that when you remove the guard and clamp, you have a true riving knife that can be left in place for non-through cuts. This insures that when a riving knife is needed on the saw, it is there. No fiddle factor. Having to align the riving knife each and every time you swap them out on these saws can become a real issue with time constraints as well as ease of use. This lessens the risk of not having a knife on the saw when needed. There are now warning labels on all SGK1 shark guards that serve to help as a reminder to do this for you and others who may use the saw. If you have an older Shark Guard, send me an email and I will get a warning label with instructions mailed to you. The image below is an older style RK and clamp for Powermatic 2000, but are similar to the new ones that ship with the SGK1.
Riving Knife Alignment At this point of setup you will need to align or verify alignment of the RK to the blade. Install your blade if you have removed it earlier. You will need to use a straight edge, steel ruler, framing square or something similar. The RK needs to be completely in the shadow of the blade. Alignment can be accomplished a few different ways. Refer to your Operator's Manual.
The Clamp assembly Once you have the riving knife securely installed and aligned, you can install your throat plate. Install this according to your Operator's manual. The three slots on the top of the two largest splitters are used with this clamp. The three steel pins in the lower portion of the clamp slip into these slots and lock down when the knobs of the clamp are tightened. There are also set screws in one clamp half that serve to keep the two clamp halves parallel when tightening regardless of RK thickness. You loosen the knobs and slide the clamp toward the rear of the saw and lift up. Installation is the reverse. This clamp helps to prevent lifting of the material depending on material thickness being cut. Feeding the wrong thickness material can be dangerous. It can stop material in mid cut. Always check or adjust the guard height for material being cut.
Using the tail hook The Shark Guard has a horizontal hooked slot at the rear and a vertical slot further forward. These slots are the mounting slots for this guard. The hooked slots get hooked on the rear studs of the clamp. There is a safety hook that slips down over the rear stud to keep the guard from coming off when not intended. You can see in this image that the guard can be left in the upward position by hooking only the rear slots and resting the guard on the front stud and brass bushings. This ability is beneficial when measuring between the fence and blade with a steel rule. The front slots just slip down over the front studs with care taken to use the smaller bushing diameters. With this done and your tail hook swung down into place, your blade guard is installed.
Using the Shark Guard Here is a link to some video's that help to show how these guard are intended to be used. Watch the videos that deal with riving knives. This guarding system is designed to collect maximum dust during a cut, so the front roller underneath always rides on the stock. This helps prevent dust from getting slung forward by the blade on most cuts except at the very end of the cut and when cleaning up an edge. All guards with dust collection have trouble in those areas. If you ordered a guard with a dust port, a dust collection hose can be hooked up to the top of the guard using a hose clamp or just by slip fit. The dust port to hose connection is usually a snug fit. I suggest that something be done to the port though. If left open, you can get a fountain effect of sawdust right into your face. For a good fit with something that is readily available, spray paint tops will serve as a good cap for the 2.5 inch dust port. Larger ports might be capped using various plastic lids or tops.
Dust collection installations Rockler, Woodcraft and other outlets sell nice clear flex hose that fit these dust ports very well. If you leave the hose as a slip fit without a clamp, the hose can conveniently do duty on a router table as well. If you are installing a larger hose, you should also include a blast gate in line and easily accessible. This really is a requirement for 4 inch ports and is a good idea for smaller ones. When you will be cutting material that will have a small offcut, the suction from the dust port can be so powerful that it will lift the small parts and it can get thrown into the dust hose or into the front of the guard with extreme force. This is undesirable and easily prevented with a blast gate. There are numerous ways the you can support the hose for the dust collection. On my Gallery page, you will see some photo's of different setups. On my Review page, you will find links to individual websites where some owners used varied methods of supporting this hose. Here is a link with information on mounting the SGK1 overhead.
Shark face decal application The decals come in two parts. The mouth and the eye. If you are looking at the shark from the front, the decals go in on the left side. We recommend that you use Windex (any glass cleaner) and a soft cotton cloth like a T-shirt to clean the guard first. It may help to look at a photo like this one below. Remember, you are looking at the reverse side in this image. This was done so that you wouldn't have to handle the decal when moving the shark. It also gives is a nice appearance from the outside of the lexan. These are water slide decals. Below are the instructions for applying these. Place decal into a cup of clean water for 45-60 seconds and remove when the thin decal film begins to slip along backing. (Discard backing material after the decal has been removed) Apply decal to clean surface. Here is a link to a PDF file that you can print out. It will help you get the proper placement for these. Just print page two. Lay the guard down on the image and then you will be able to place the decals on the inside where they should go. Once you have them in position, gently pat the decals dry with a soft cloth or towel going from one side to the other. Insure there are no air bubbles under the decals. They should dry in a matter of hours. Decal placement file.
Care and cleaning of the Shark Guard For splitters and riving knives, I suggest paste wax like Johnson's or Minwax to both clean and smooth the surfaces for less friction. On the guards we like to use Windex and a soft cloth to periodically keep the guard clear. Dust can build up inside and out, so it provides the best visibility when clean. Replacement parts Replacement, spare or upgrade parts can be ordered using this link. If you don't find what you need there, then just send an email. Still have questions or concerns? If you have any questions about installation, setup or usage of this blade guard or parts associated with it, please don't hesitate to contact us. We are happy to help insure your satisfaction and safe usage of these products. Thanks a bunch and I hope that you enjoy using your Shark Guard.