The OXON RECORDER. End of an era. The Newsletter of Oxfordshire Buildings Record Issue 43 Summer 2010

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1 The OXON RECORDER The Newsletter of Oxfordshire Buildings Record Issue 43 Summer 2010 Reminder of the contents of this issue, so you can come back later for more information OBR Excusion to Coleshill Saturday 31 July Flyer enclosed Recording Days Saturday 2 October in Steventon Flyer enclosed Abingdon workshop Unique shoe repair workshop closes Springview 2010 Progress report, more participants invited Training Days Bookings now being taken Documentary research for Steventon Volunteers needed Wheatley Windmill Worth a visit Tewkesbury Tour OBR members go exploring OBR AGM and St Thomas Oxford walking tour: AGM minutes + Oxford hidden gems off the tourist routes. Recent Recording Yes, we have done lots, but no room to report in this issue Heather Horner, newsletter editor End of an era Recently, members of the Abingdon Buildings Record group managed to catch one of the town's oldest businesses at work just before it closed after over a hundred years. This was Baileys Shoe Repairs in Bath Street. The building started life as the stables of a rather depressing-looking temperance hotel, the Rising Sun; this had been an inn since at least 1761, and faced onto the onetime sheep-marketplace now known as The Square. told her; but it turned out that she wanted her riding crop repaired. Soon after the hotel was pulled down in 1900 Baileys took over the stables and became well known in Abingdon for the quality and variety of its work. Harry Downey, the outgoing proprietor, tells the story of a customer who asked him if he was into whipping. "Only by appointment" he The accompanying photograph shows the interior of the workshop overflowing with items. Despite appearances, everything was always perfectly organised. Many of the machines are over half a century old and one at least (a shoe-polisher) was converted from being belt-operated to being powered by electricity. Abingdon will miss Baileys - who else will mend our riding crops? Gillian Harrison Big projects in Steventon Enclosed with this newsletter is a flyer detailing a major recording in Steventon. We need lots of people so even if you have never had a go before, this is your chance for training on the job. See also next page for a parallel project on documentary research concerning Steventon. 1 Oxfordshire Buildings Record 2010

2 SPRINGVIEW 2010 This project has started to provide some interesting results despite a disappointingly low take-up; with our membership approaching 200 it was hoped that we might cover a fair amount of the county but with a less than 4% response the areas covered are quite limited. However the members that have taken part are typically visiting several locations and over time the data will build up. The members currently providing images have enjoyed the process and we have decided to keep this project running in parallel with the normal process of recording as the two are complementary and SPRINGVIEW will provide a more general background context to the individual building studies. It is hoped that the initial results will be part of the Presentation Day later in the year; the project will therefore continue throughout the year, but rather than working through the area co-ordinators you are asked to contact Vic Allison who will co-ordinate the survey across all areas. Phone , or vicallison.pic@btinternet.com. More training days The next OBR learning day is scheduled for Saturday 25 September It will focus on the town of Dorchester-on-Thames. The prehistoric earthworks of Dyke Hills, the Roman town and the medieval importance of the Abbey will be explored by Professor Malcolm Airs and David Clark. Approx 10 am- 4pm, cost 20, which will hopefully include the cost of lunch. Some walking will be involved. Final details will be sent to booking participants. Contact Ann Atkinson, OBR Treasurer, 74 Langdale Gate, Witney, OX28 6AY. Adenatkinson@aol.com, or phone Coming soon: Stone and Brick Buildings in Oxfordshire the ways in which these materials are used; probably based in North Oxfordshire. Steventon house histories As well as the building recording and tree-ring dating being done in Steventon, Nat Alcock of the VAG has been working on a hitherto undiscovered set of documents in the Westminster Abbey archives which have allowed a number of the properties to be taken back to the 17th century. This work is ongoing and Nat has agreed to accept assistance from OBR members who would like to help and to improve their skills in researching historic documents. There are court rolls in English back to 1733 which need checking, and possibly some probate records as well. The aim is to compile the sequence of inheritance for all the 80-odd houses existing in , back to If you would like to help in this work, which will involve working in London with Nat and then on your own, during the summer, please contact the Secretary right away (p8). David Clark Wheatley Windmill The recently completed renovation of the cap mill at Wheatley is worth a visit. The open days for the rest of this season are second Sunday each month, 11 July, 8 August, 12 September, 10 October, times 2-6pm except October 2 5pm. Access is free, though donations towards the restoration are welcome. If there is wind, the stones will be milling. The day I visited was completely calm, but it did mean I could climb out on to the tail fan. The view is stunning. All the machinery is now in working order; I was particularly impressed by the timber gearing which turns the cap (and the sails) into the wind. Heather Horner Above: the restored mill at Wheatley Left: the drive gear of one of two pairs of stones photos H Horner 2 Oxfordshire Buildings Record 2010

3 OBR outing to Tewkesbury Our visit to Tewkesbury on May Day was enhanced by sunshine, although many of us carried umbrellas just in case. Our attention was ably focussed by guide Peter Jones on the wealth of buildings he showed us in the town centre. He had competition from a huge Food Festival being held in the fields opposite the abbey, but, as far as I am aware, no one defected to sample their delights. A more serious threat to his commentary came from the Abbey church bells. There, ten teams were ringing against one another, all day; a joyous sound, which curiously couldn t be heard when inside the Abbey. We met in the Royal Hop Pole Hotel, a comfortable base in a former coaching inn, which boasted a 14 th C upper hall, possibly a dormitory, with decorated beams and fragments of wall paintings. with the regular flooding of the surrounding meadowlands serving a useful purpose to ensure a good hay crop. They still use the drawing of lots for allocating the hay crop, which in a good year is worth tens of thousands of pounds, though not after the notorious July 2007 floods, which cut off the town. Marks left by the water can still be seen on many of the buildings. Flood defences have been erected on some low-lying properties, others have no habitable rooms downstairs and few properties have cellars. My husband John did, however, manage to look at one vaulted cellar under the Sweet Shop in Church Street. This cellar is reputedly of a similar style as those under the Abbey, with ribbed stone vaulting. Above: decorated crown post in the upper hall. Fortuitously, a chambermaid was cleaning the main bedroom featuring 17 th C wall painting, so we were able to see the décor not normally open to view. The first set of humming and hawing over various carpentry joints and reasons why such and such was where it was, ensued. Those of us not having the advantage of formal vernacular architecture training, apart from second hand, stood back and let the experts get on with their deliberations, moving them on when they start reiterating what they have already gone through twice before! Three rivers, the Avon, the Severn and a smaller river called the Swilgate almost surround Tewkesbury. The Severn locks into the Lower Avon just above the town; this is reputedly the only lock linking two rivers in this country. This circumnavigation means that the town has largely remained the same size for hundreds of years, Right: another round of humming and hawing. Left: the object of their puzzlement, the ghost of a former timber-framed building embedded in a gable end on Post Office Street.(H Horner) One of the houses opposite the Royal Hop Pole burnt down not so long ago and the owners wanted to rebuild it with a brick face, to match the buildings either side. However, they were prevented from doing that and were obliged to rebuild in timber as it had been. Other shop owners in timber buildings didn t want their small mullioned windows, so had exchanged them for large plate glass, their original windows being used elsewhere. Some evidence of the former occupiers of houses and shops remain, examples include the array of spikes outside a butchers or game retailer on which to hang produce, a golden key hanging in front Left: detail of carving on a former fishmongers shopfront. (H Horner) 3 Oxfordshire Buildings Record 2010

4 of the locksmith and a large hat outside what is now the Information Centre. Here we were greeted by the Town Crier, thankfully in muted tones! He was wearing a hat of similar style. Processing on an industrial scale has formerly contributed to prosperity in Tewkesbury. Whilst renovations were being carried out in the Mustard House some seed was found under the floorboards. There were tales of a bitter local mustard being prevalent in this area, and having successfully cultivated the seeds, they did indeed produce a bitter, or sharper tasting mustard than we are used to. Sadly, the Tannery and the Flour Mills are currently derelict, awaiting renovation or alteration when the recession fully recovers. Peter was keen to point out examples of the 35 alleyways which survive in Tewkesbury. There were formerly many more, but they have been incorporated into the adjoining plot of land, or closed off. If you owned the plot of land at the end of the alley it was generally known by your surname, e.g. Lilly s Alley. The alleys are distinguished by hard blue paving bricks, and a dogleg curve in the route which they follow. This kink is to prevent them turning into a wind tunnel, although a through draught might have been welcome; to prevent too much effluent being deposited in the main streets each alleyway had to house a lavatory. This could be used by up to 300 people; in high summer the smell must have been intolerable. Town life was pretty crowded - cholera and typhoid were rife. To gain more space, buildings were extended over the alleyways, sometimes completely, others times partially, creating conveyancing nightmares with flying freeholds and the like. Right: part of a typical alley, overbuilt at far end. H.Horner The row of shops, with accommodation above, which we visited in the afternoon, was fascinating. Their existence was unknown for centuries, and it was only when Woolworths started to demolish an anonymous-looking row of one-up-one-downs to build a new store that sharp-eyed locals recognised how unique they were. Thankfully Woolworths loss is our gain. The row, originally of 23 units and dendro-dated to , was built as a property speculation by the church. After full renovation, some are now homes, but a couple have been turned into a Museum, with one house exhibited as a sample of how they would have looked originally. Going up the steep stairs, with rare solid treads, to the upper floor open to the roof, I wondered what the lives of those who had trod those steps had been like. Linen soaked in wax and linseed oil and affixed to the small window would not have done much to keep out the cold. Wooden shutters, which were the alternative, would have made everything so dark and smokey with an open fire in the middle of the floor downstairs. The front bay, downstairs, was the shop. Its counter was made by lowering the shutter to form a table projecting into the street outside. As this is now the pavement, the authorities will not allow that to happen. Too much traffic nowadays. Traffic has always been a problem, it seems, as a couple of ingenious devices designed to mitigate damage to buildings were pointed out. The first, in Post Office Lane, was a series of stone bollards, rather like small milestones placed against the bottom of the wall of a building to stop carts hitting the wall. The second was an iron kerbing, set into the ground of the road leading down to the river, again to try to keep carts on the straight and narrow. This was adjacent to a row of cottages of 1700, formerly inhabited by knitters making gloves and stockings, with workshop windows on the first floor. (photo opposite page) 4 Oxfordshire Buildings Record 2010

5 Above :cottages with first floor workshops.(h Horner) Left: the cast iron kerbing in front of the cottages. Near the Abbey is the former National School, built by public subscription in 1813, now used as offices and meeting room and opposite it, the Bell Hotel. There has been a hostelry on this site since C11th, serving pilgrims on their way to another Abbey, Hailes. The Abbey obviously had a huge influence on the town, but not everyone worshipped there. The Baptists had a chapel, converted in 1650 from a former hall house, some of its congregation walking across the fields from as far away as Cheltenham. Remarkably, this chapel has been in constant use for 360 years. It has a peaceful little graveyard at the rear, smothered with a froth cow parsley, fully deserving the folk name of Queen Ann s Lace. The Quakers also had a meetinghouse, which James Fox is said to have visited. Some very loud, unholy music was emanating from that house as we passed, which would have shocked the old Quakers without doubt. At the dissolution of the monasteries Henry VIII allowed the town to keep the abbey church (above) as its parish church, because they paid him the princely sum of 453, the value of the metal in the bells and the lead on the roof. No mention was made of the value of the land itself! In the grounds of the abbey a set of seated sculptured figures representing the nations of the world was given by the USA Tewkesbury. It s called Touching Souls and plays on souls and soles as their feet are joined each with their neighbour. Inside the Abbey, we were left to our own devices as the official tour had finished and the bell ringing competition was almost at an end. I did buy a small weigelia shrub to plant in our garden, as the Friends of the Abbey were holding a Plant Sale. It s called Apple Blossom and seemed an appropriate reminder of a very happy day. I was also amused to note that one recumbent figure on top of his tomb had a very shiny pate; it seems everyone passing by couldn t resist touching it. His shoes, which in real life probably were shiny, were dull and untouched! Our thanks are due to David Hughes and Peter Jones for arranging our visit. I think many of us will make a return visit to have another look. Sue Hine (Photos Sue & John Hine except where noted) St Thomas s revealed OBR AGM s are always cheerfully brief affairs, followed by a pleasantly relaxed buffet lunch. Then we had the chance to look round the accessible parts of Victoria Buildings, purposebuilt for the manufacture of Frank Cooper s Oxford Marmalade, shortly after the 1901 Factory Act made major changes to health and safety requirements. The factory, the only listed industrial building in Oxford, was built in a prime location opposite the LNWR station, in a confident style typical of its time (illus. p6&7). After lunch, OBR member Liz Wooley led us on a spiral route through the streets of St Thomas s parish behind Oxford Castle; an area of the city entirely unknown to many of us. In 18 th and 19 th C, St Thomas s had been a populous area of high density housing, including lodging houses and back yards crowded with one-up-one-down 5 Oxfordshire Buildings Record 2010

6 Also surviving are three early social housing, blocks of Model Dwellings erected by Christ Church in , with accommodation for 1st, 2nd and 3rd class labourers families 3rd class with one bedroom was for newly married couples, 2nd for young families, and 1st class with 3 bedrooms was for big families. They are still rented as social housing today. Above: the rear of the Marmalade Factory, from Hollybush Row. The impressive bulk of the main block is not evident from the frontage facing the station. The chimney for a pump, and the office block to the right were both added in Photo J Steane dwellings. The braided river with mill streams had long been the home of noxious industries such as tanning, with milling, brewing and malting activities continuing well into the 20th C. Much of the meaner housing in St Thomas s and adjacent St Ebbe s fell to the wrecking ball during 1930 s and 1970 s mania for slum clearance, residents being moved to the specially built Blackbird Leys estates. Some of the industrial buildings have survived better, albeit converted to offices and flats, with some reasonably sensitive additions. Above: Liz Woolley (centre, both photos) talks to OBR members about The Lion Brewery, now converted and extended for housing (upper), and the 18th C buildings of Fox s Malthouse, now the University Surveyors offices (lower). Photos J Steane Above: one of three blocks of Model Dwellings, known as Christ Church Old Buildings For most of our tour, we were overlooked by St George s tower, a Saxon watchtower incorporated into the Norman castle as part of the West gate of the city. The tower is undated but seemingly the oldest non-ecclesiastic building in England. Above: St George s Tower from Paradise Street. We finished our tour with a visit to St Thomas s church, rarely open to visitors. Exterior features include a 13th C priest s door with exquisite ironwork (Right). (Continued on p8) 6 Oxfordshire Buildings Record 2010

7 TENTH ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING Minutes of the tenth Annual General Meeting of the Oxfordshire Buildings Record held on Saturday 15 May 2010 at 11.30am at the Jam Factory, Oxford. (above, photo H Horner) all members. Ken Hume was coordinating this. We had also been successful in getting a grant of 2000 towards tree-ring dating in Steventon and with further support from OAHS three buildings will be investigated. The annual presentation day had been held in Shipton-under-Wychwood in November, with a walk through the village and a visit to the Shaven Crown and the Prebendal. This was followed by a full programme of presentations by members of their work during the year. The OBR education programme continued to attract interest and five one-day courses, From Attic to Cellar, had been held at Cogges and Chipping Norton with 62 students in total. The excursion to Marlborough had proved popular and was enjoyed by all. The website continued to be well received, and a members area would be opening shortly. The newsletter under Heather s management had maintained its high standard as a key means of communication between members. Finally, the travelling exhibition, Discovering Oxfordshire s Buildings had spent the whole summer as part of a display of research on buildings at the Wallingford museum. The Chairman, John Steane, was in the chair. The following members were present: Vic Allison, Louise Armstrong, Ann Atkinson, Norma Aubertin-Potter, Elsa Calvo, Janet & Mark Casson, David Clark, Paul Clark, Elizabeth Drury, Gillian Harrison, John and Sue Hine, Heather Horner, Michael and Rosemary Howden, Ken Hume, Susan Richards, Ann Spokes- Symonds, Martin Whitworth, Liz Woolley. 1. Apologies for absence had been received from Barbara Creed, David Evans, Mike Evans, Ruth Gibson, David Hughes, Nigel Morgan, Helena Nielsen, Barbara Painter, Keith Randall, Susan Rose, Donna Thynne, Simon Townley. 2. Minutes of the ninth AGM on 16 May Adoption was proposed by J Hine, seconded by V Allison, and they were signed by the Chairman as a true record.. 3. Matters arising. The Chairman said that many of the points raised were covered in the member survey, the results of which were reported in the newsletter. 4. Treasurer's Report and Accounts for the year The Treasurer, Ann Atkinson, tabled copies of the audited accounts for The excess of receipts over payments had been Basic expenditure of 772 was more than covered by subscription income of 945. Bank interest was down by 185 but donations, gift aid and a profit from training courses had boosted the bank balance to She thanked members for their donations, the Oxford Preservation Trust for their support for the newsletter and Brian Tonkin for auditing the accounts. L Woolley proposed, and A Spokes-Symonds seconded a motion to accept the accounts. This was carried nem con. The Chairman thanked Ann for her work. 5. Secretary's Report. The Secretary reported that 2009 had been another busy year for the OBR. Five buildings had been recorded on group recording days Sundial Cottage East Hagbourne, Shaven Crown at Shipton-under-Wychwood, Old Bell in Henley, 14 The Green and the North Star in Steventon. Individual members and small groups had also carried out a number of investigations. Some of these were target buildings for the 2011 Vernacular Architecture Group conference, which the OBR were hosting. Much of the future programme would be aimed at completing this work. The OBR had now joined the VAG as affiliated members, and their journal was available to 6. Membership Secretary s Report. Paul reported that membership stood at 189 ordinary and 5 corporate, and increase of 1 from the previous year. Members with subscriptions outstanding were encouraged to make payment. The deaths of two members, Mrs E L Harley and Mr Dick Thomas were noted during the year. 7. Events Secretary s Report In David s absence it was reported that the next excursion was to Coleshill on 31 July. Members were invited to send him feedback and ideas for future excursions. 8. Newsletter Editor s Report Heather reported that she was grateful for the steady flow of contributions, and to B Creed for help in redesigning the typeface and layout. She thanked OPT and her husband, Keith, for their invaluable help in producing the newsletter. 6. Election of Officers and Committee. The following nominations were presented to the meeting: Nominee Post John Steane Chairman David Clark Secretary Ann Atkinson Treasurer Heather Horner Newsletter Editor Paul Clark Membership Secretary David Hughes Events Secretary Vic Allison Committee Member Ken Hume Committee Member Simon Townley Committee Member Martin Whitworth Committee Member There being no further nominations, a motion to elect the above en bloc was proposed by S Richards and seconded by M Howden. There being no objections, the Chairman declared them all duly elected. 7. Election of Auditor. Brian Tonkin was proposed by D Clark and seconded by V Allison. There being no other nomination, he was declared duly elected. 8. Any other business. The Secretary and others gave notice of forthcoming events. The meeting closed at pm with a vote of thanks to the Chair. D R Clark, Secretary, 15 May Oxfordshire Buildings Record 2010

8 The interior of the church presents a mid-19 th C remodelling typical of The Oxford Movement, part of whose philosophy involved a return to a presumed medieval layout and decor. Left: interior of St Thomas s looking west schoolroom and masters lodging downstairs, with the upper floors let out as rented accommodation, the income designed to pay for building maintenance and the schoolmaster s wages. Below: OBR members study the inscription on the north facade of Coombe House. Photo J Hine In the churchyard is Coombe House, built in 1702, and the subject of an OBR recording in On that occasion we found the interior remarkably intact, despite an odd layout comprising Our thanks are due to Liz Wooley, whose research into the social history of St Thomas s gave us insights into the lives of earlier residents as well as revealing some architectural treasures, both old and new. Heather Horner Photos H Horner except where noted. FORTHCOMING EVENTS all dates 2010 OBR dates, Saturday 31 July OBR Excusion to Coleshill Flyer enclosed Saturday 17 July Recording day in Abingdon. Call for participants in Issue 42, all places now booked. Saturday 25 September Walking tour of Dorchester-on-Thames see p.2 Saturday 2 October Recording day in Steventon. Flyer enclosed Saturday 20 November OBR Presentation Day at Blewbury. The year s activities reported, talks, walks & building visits planned. Sunday 25 July 2 5 pm Chalgrove Manor open. Fundraising event for St Mary s bells. Teas + other attractions. 11 & 12 September Open Doors 2010 The Oxford Preservation Trust (OPT) negotiates access to buildings not generally open to the public. Full details Also looking for stewards why not spend a couple of hours looking after an interesting building? Friday 24 Sunday 26 September Medieval Domestic Cultures Annual Oxford Conference of Vernacular Architecture Group, OBR members invited to attend, early booking advised. Oxford University Department of Continuing Education at Rewley House, information and booking ppdayweek@conted.ox.ac.uk Copy date and contacts Copy date for Issue 44 is 1 September Please send articles, information, letters, reviews, etc. to the editor, Heather Horner, at Windrush Cottage, Station Road, South Leigh, Oxon. OX29 6XN, telephone , hahwindrush@aol.com The Secretary is David Clark, 21 Walton Street, Oxford OX1 2HQ, telephone , drc@davidrclark.plus.com or david.clark3@which.net Our website is at Some changes recently, and more in the pipeline The OBR are extremely grateful to The Oxford Preservation Trust for their generosity in supporting the production of The Oxon Recorder and to Awards for All in supporting our work to record the built heritage of Oxfordshire. 8 Oxfordshire Buildings Record 2010