Chicago. 3rd Edition. by Laura Tiebert

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3 Chicago daybyday 3rd Edition by Laura Tiebert

4 Contents 16 Favorite Moments 1 1 The Best Full-Day Tours 9 The Best in One Day 10 The Best in Two Days 16 The Best in Three Days 22 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 27 The Loop: An Architectural Tour 28 Mag Mile: An Architectural Tour 34 Navy Pier & Environs for Kids 38 The Art Institute of Chicago 42 Museum of Science & Industry 46 3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 49 The Gold Coast 50 Old Town 54 Bucktown & Wicker Park 58 Hyde Park 64 4 The Best Shopping 69 Shopping Best Bets 70 Shopping A to Z 75 5 The Best of the Outdoors 85 Indiana Dunes 86 Chicago Lakeshore 90 6 The Best Dining 95 Dining Best Bets 96 Restaurants A to Z 100

5 7 The Best Nightlife 107 Nightlife Best Bets 108 Nightlife A to Z The Best Arts & Entertainment 119 Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 120 Arts & Entertainment A to Z The Best Hotels 131 Hotel Best Bets 132 Hotels A to Z The Best Day Trips & Excursions 145 Oak Park 146 Evanston 150 The Savvy Traveler 153 Before You Go 154 Getting There 159 Getting Around 160 Fast Facts 162 Chicago: A Brief History 169 Chicago s Architecture 171 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 176 Index 178

6 Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ Copyright 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/ , fax 978/ Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/ , fax 201/ , or online at Frommer s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. ISBN (paper); (ebk); (ebk); (ebk) Editor: Ian Skinnari Production Editor: Jana M. Stefanciosa Photo Editors: Alden Gewirtz, Richard Fox Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/ , outside the U.S. at 317/ or fax 317/ Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in China

7 A Note from the Editorial Director Organizing your time. That s what this guide is all about. Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop. Hoping to see the magnificent architecture of the Windy City, or to tour the highlights of the Museum of Science and Industry or the Art Institute of Chicago? Planning a walk through the Gold Coast, or a whirlwind tour of the very best that Chicago has to offer? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience those finds that turn tourists into travelers. The Day by Days are also your top choice if you re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife it s all here. Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn t recommend to their best friends. They re also open to suggestions from readers. If you d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at feedback@frommers.com, and we ll pass them on. Enjoy your Day by Day guide the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime. Warm regards, Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommer s Travel Guides

8 vi About the Author Laura Tiebert is a freelance writer whose travels have taken her from the frozen tundra of Dawson City in Yukon Territory to the wide sand beaches of Muscat, Oman. Today, she stays a bit closer to home in Wilmette, Illinois, where she lives with her husband and two sons. She is the author of Frommer s Chicago with Kids and Chicago For Dummies. Advisory & Disclaimer Travel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we strongly advise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, including information on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommodations, shopping, and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert while traveling and to remain aware of your surroundings. Avoid civil disturbances, and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and other valuables. While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained within this guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs, or expenses of any nature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information contained in this guide. The inclusion of a company, organization, or website in this guide as a service provider and/or potential source of further information does not mean that we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware that information provided through some websites may be unreliable and can change without notice. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any damages arising herefrom. Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a starrating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a = icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P. The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

9 Travel Resources at Frommers.com Frommer s travel resources don t end with this guide. Frommer s website, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more. vii A Note on Prices In the Take a Break and Best Bets sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost Hotels Restaurants $ under $125 under $15 $$ $125 $300 $15 $30 $$$ $300 $450 $30 $45 $$$$ $450 $600 $45 $60 $$$$$ over $600 over $60 How to Contact Us In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We re sure you ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer s Chicago, Day by Day, 3rd Edition John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ frommersfeedback@wiley.com

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12 N 2 16 Favorite Moments 16 Favorite Moments 3 mi 3 km L a k e M LINCOLN PARK i c h 6 i g a n Lake Shore Dr. Navy Pier Mount Wilmette 21 Baha i Temple Prospect Golf Rd. 14 Northwestern University Dempster St. 58 BUSSE Des Plaines FOREST 90 Evanston Skokie Rand Rd. Northwest Hwy. Algonquin Rd. Touhy Ave Elk Grove Village Peterson Ave. Lincoln Ave. Caldwell Ave. O Hare International Airport Rosemont Park Ridge Niles John F. Kennedy Expwy. Milwaukee Ave. Franklin Park Eisenhower Expwy. Fullerton Pkwy. North Ave. Grand Ave. Lombard Elmhurst Melrose Park Oak Park 9 C H I C A G O Chicago ILLINOIS Springfield 2 Previous page: The Buckingham Fountain and the Chicago skyline.

13 3 Lake Shore Dr. 16 Favorite Moments Buddy Guy s Legends 83 Chicago Lakefront Willowbrook Cruise Chicago River and Lake Michigan Magnificent Darien Mile Oak Park 33 The Second City 55 Steppenwolf Theatre Museum of Science and Industry Hyde ARGONNE Park NATIONAL 171 Poetry Night at the Green Mill John LABORATORY G. Shedd Aquarium Millennium Park 34 La Grange Roosevelt Rd. Cermak Rd. 35th St. Archer Ave. WASHINGTON PARK 90 55th St. 94 Western Blvd. Marquette Rd. Marquette Rd. 79th St th St. 95th St. Ogden Ave. Cicero Ave. Roosevelt Rd Dan Ryan Expwy. Chicago Skyway (Toll) Eisenhower Expwy. Stickney Stevenson Expwy. Oakbrook Terrace Maywood Broadview ers ove Oak Brook Hinsdale Western Springs Brookfield Zoo Brookfield Joliet Rd Wrigley Field Riding the El Green City Market Art Institute of Chicago Willow Springs PALOS HILLS Berwyn Cicero Midway International Airport Burbank Oak Lawn GRANT PARK U.S. Cellular Field McCormick Place Convention Center University of Chicago 41 Evergreen Park Pullman Historic District

14 4 16 Favorite Moments Frank Sinatra once proclaimed Chicago his kind of town. It will be yours as well. Awaiting you in the Windy City are new discoveries and favorite places you ll want to visit again and again, from riding the El to singing along with the crowds at Wrigley Field s seventh-inning stretch. In this section, I describe some quintessential Chicago experiences that just might become part of your family s vacation lore. They ll make Chicago your kind of town, too. Historic Wrigley Field, home of the Chicago Cubs and the best seventh-inning stretch in baseball. 1 Take yourself out to the ballgame at Wrigley Field. Our historic ballpark approaches perfection with its ivy-covered walls, hand-operated scoreboard, and view of the jadecolored, glassy waters of Lake Michigan from the upper decks. Now that lights have been installed, the Cubs play night games, but Wrigley is still best experienced on a summer afternoon, when you ll be surrounded by plenty of natives playing hooky from work a Windy City tradition. See p 26, 7. 2 Take a ride on our famous El train. Our elevated train is not only the least expensive ride in town, but also an experience that can be had only in Chicago. For the best views, board the Brown Line at Washington/Wells, and ride it around the Loop through the canyons of office buildings (you ll be close enough to peer into some of them). It ll take less than 30 minutes of your touring time, it s inexpensive, and kids love it. See p 11, 1. 3 Sample the Midwest s best farm-grown foods at the Chicago Green City Market. Founded by prominent Chicago chefs, this Lincoln Park market allows regular folks to buy the same organic and sustainably grown foods that will Come to Buddy Guy s for the soul food and stay for the fantastic music.

15 5 The Green City Market is a great place to interact with locals while you pick up some fresh produce. appear on plates in the best restaurants in town. There s music, live cooking demonstrations, and a chance to sample French-style crepes made to order with market ingredients. See p 24, 2. 4 Marvel at the intricate pointillism of Seurat s A Sunday on the Island of La Grande Jatte and other masterpieces at Chicago s grande dame of museums, the Art Institute. You ll find Seurat s work in the renowned Impressionist collection, which also features one of the world s largest displays of Monet paintings. Your second stop should be the collections of European and American contemporary art, home to works by Picasso, Matisse, Dalí, Pollock, and Warhol. See p Get the blues at one of the city s many great music joints. At B.L.U.E.S., stellar female performers are the draw. At Buddy Guy s Legends, the Louisiana-style soul food and barbecue makes it worth arriving early and settling in for the evening. If you visit Chicago in January, don t miss out on a performance by the legendary guitarist who owns this place; but book ahead the shows sell out well in advance. See p Stroll the lakefront and ogle our inland ocean. Chicago s forefathers had the foresight to keep the city s 29 miles of lakefront free and clear of development. As a result, you can bike, rollerblade, jog, or walk along Lake Michigan and enjoy a chain of parks that includes Chicago s signature Lincoln Park and Grant Park. See p Admire our renowned skyline on a boat cruise along the Chicago River and Lake Michigan. The best way to get a perspective on Chicago s history and learn about the dramatic buildings that form the city s skyline is to take an architecture boat tour. Some of the best are run by the Chicago Architecture Foundation, covering some 40 buildings with entertaining and enlightening narrative from an army of wellversed docents. See p 17, 1. 8 Check out the wares on the Magnificent Mile. Shopping is the thing on Michigan Avenue, and you can easily while away a day browsing and buying your way up the avenue. Other areas of the city offer chic boutiques and hard-to-find antiques and vintage clothing, but for a huge selection offering something for Georges Seurat s pointillist masterpiece, A Sunday on the Island of La Grande Jatte. 16 Favorite Moments

16 6 16 Favorite Moments When the weather is warm, Chicagoans flock to the lakefront. everyone, the Magnificent Mile is your best bet. See p Explore the outdoor architectural museum that is Oak Park. If you have a passion for architecture or literature, you ll find plenty of sights to see in this suburb on the western border of the city. Ernest Hemingway was born here, and his home and a museum offer insight into Oak Park s most famous native son. But most visitors are drawn to the Frank Lloyd Wright Home & Studio, and to the homes lining Oak Park s wellmaintained streets that the famous architect designed. See p Share a laugh at The Second City. Training ground for the country s best comedians, The Second City excels in long-form improvisational comedy. Ensembles change frequently, so check the local newspapers for reviews of the latest offering. And, if you like your history mixed with humor (and who doesn t?), don t miss The Second City s Neighborhood Tour of Old Town, which gives you a glimpse into the neighborhood s architecture and history, plus some insider info on Second City alumni and their legendary hangouts and real-life antics. See p 126.! Grip the edge of your seat at a Chicago theater company performance. Whether you choose a production by the Steppenwolf Theatre Company, Goodman Theatre, or a Second City is home to some of the country s best up-and-coming comedians.

17 7 16 Favorite Moments A lake cruise is a great way to gain an appreciation of Chicago s architecture. smaller venue such as Victory Gardens Theater, don t miss a chance to see what might be the next big hit to move to Broadway. See p Climb aboard a captured U-boat at the Museum of Science and Industry, the granddaddy of interactive museums. The U-505, captured in 1944 and brought to the museum 10 years later, is only one of 2,000 exhibits. It s easy to spend a day here, especially if you take in an Omnimax movie, located in the Henry Crown Space Center, where you can also hop aboard a simulator to experience a space shuttle flight. See p 46. # Explore Hyde Park s Gothic quadrangle and magnificent mansions. Home to the University of Chicago, with its 73 Nobel laureates, intimidating buildings with Gothic spires, and hallowed academic halls, Hyde Park is sure to impress. Off campus, Hyde Park is an integrated, cosmopolitan neighborhood that s home to one of Frank Lloyd Wright s finest works, the Robie House. See p 64. $ Take in jazz or a poetry slam at Green Mill. This popular watering hole of the 1920s and 1930s still retains its speak-easy flavor. On Sunday night, Green Mill hosts the Uptown Poetry Slam, where poets vie for the open mic. Most nights, though, jazz is on the menu from about 9pm til the wee hours, so sink into a plush velvet booth and enjoy. See p 118. % Get snout-to-nose with the baby belugas at John G. Shedd Aquarium. The world s largest indoor aquarium is a city treasure. Buy a ticket for the Aquatic Show at the Oceanarium, which re-creates a Pacific Northwest coastal environment and features a wall of windows that reveals the lake outside Shoppers can easily spend all day wandering the Magnificent Mile.

18 8 16 Favorite Moments The WWII U-boat on display at the Museum of Science and Industry. and creates the illusion of one uninterrupted expanse of sea (that s where you ll find those baby belugas and dolphins). Another all-time favorite is watching the diver feed the sea creatures in the Caribbean Reef during the free shows four times daily. See p 19, k. ^ Interact with the sculpture at Millennium Park, the city s newest urban showpiece and now one of its most popular tourist attractions. Don t miss Cloud Gate, the huge elliptical sculpture by British artist Anish Kapoor, in which you can examine your reflection in funhouselike distortions. While you re here, make sure to catch a show at the stunning Frank Gehry designed Pritzker Music Pavilion, home to free summer concerts performed by the Grant Park Symphony Orchestra. See p 12, 7. The Shedd Aquarium s Caribbean Reef.

19 1 The Best Full-Day Tours

20 10 The Best Full-Day Tours The Best in One Day N. Kingsbury North Branch Chicago River S. Canal St. N. Canal St. Union Station South Branch Chicago River N. Orleans St. S. Wacker Dr. Eisenhower Expwy. Post Office W. Harrison St W. Polk St. Wrigley Field C H I C A G O Map area 290 N. Franklin St. W. Illinois St. W. Hubbard St. RIVER NORTH W. Kinzie St. Merchandise Mart W. Randolph St. S. Franklin St. W. Ohio St. W. Grand Ave. N. Wells St. W. Adams St. Willis Tower W. Jackson Blvd. W. Van Buren St. S. Wells St. Chicago W. Wacker Dr. E. Wacker Pl. W. Lake St. E. Lake St. W. Congress Pkwy. S. Sherman St. N. LaSalle St. 1 W. Washington St. 0 U.S. Cellular Field Midway 94 W. Madison St. W. Monroe St. L a k e M i c h i g a n 3 mi S. LaSalle St. N. Clark St. N. Clark St. THE LOOP S. Clark St. N. Dearborn St. N. Dearborn St. S. Federal St. S. Dearborn St. S. Plymouth Ct. N. State St. N. State St. S. State St. N. Wabash Ave. E. Adams St. S. Wabash Ave. E. Congress Pkwy. S. Wabash Ave. 7 Millennium Park W. Roosevelt Rd. 8 Art Institute of Chicago 41 9 The Gage 10 Michigan Avenue Bridge km N. Michigan Ave. S. Michigan Ave. S. Michigan Ave. 1/4 mi STREETER- VILLE River E. Wacker Dr. N. Stetson Ave. N Columbus Dr. E. So. Water St. E. Randolph Dr. E. Monroe Dr. Columbus Dr. MILLENNIUM 7 PARK Art Institute of Chicago E. Jackson Dr. GRANT PARK Columbus Dr. E. Balbo E. Balbo Dr. Ave. SOUTH LOOP 1 Brown Line El Washington/Wells E. 8th St. Station 2 Macy s 3 Reliance BuildingE. 9th St. 4 Atwood Cafe 5 Miro's Chicago E. 11th St. 6 Chicago Public Library/ Harold Washington Library Center Previous page: A view of Millennium Park.