EUAN CAMERON puts his preconceptions to one side as he marvels at the natural and the man-made majesty of this surprisingly tourist-friendly country

Transcription

1 UST one step forward and I would plummet over a sheer cliff face and fall 10,000 feet twice the height of Ben Nevis into the mist-shrouded valley below. My reaction would usually be to get away from the edge as fast as possible, but my fear of heights suddenly forgotten, I can only stand and marvel at the view. Beyond the green plain, mountains jut towards the clouds like massive stone spikes punched through the earth. I can see troops of baboons jumping from rock to rock and giant eagles circling high above. Welcome to the Simien Mountains of Ethiopia. That s right, Ethiopia. For most people the name conjures up images of a desert wracked by famine. I was the same but now I am here to see this amazing country for myself. From the capital of Addis Ababa, I have travelled north to Lake Tana. This enormous body of water, covering more than 1,000 square miles, is the source of the Blue Nile. I take a boat trip and admire the abundant birdlife pelicans, ibis and kingfisher thrive here. Passing fishermen on boats made from papyrus reeds that have been used since the time of the pharaohs, we arrive as the lake becomes the Blue Nile, a place of mystery that has drawn explorers since ancient days. But an even more amazing spectacle awaits a short distance downstream the Tississat Falls. On the walk there I am struck by how green the countryside is, the path often shaded by eucalyptus trees and coffee bushes growing wild. I hear the falls before I see them it is the end of the rainy season and the river is in full spate. At this point the Blue Nile is more than 1,300 feet wide and the massive waterfalls throw up a spray that the African sun weaves with rainbows. Crossing a narrow, swaying rope bridge (tip don t look down), I get as close as I can to the falls. Here, surrounded by almost tropical vegetation, the spray soaks you to the skin and the roar drowns out everything else. I spend the night in the nearby town of Bahar Dar where I enjoy some traditional cuisine. Ethiopians love spiced meat and vegetables and serve it on a flatbread called injera. The next day I head to Gondar, the ancient capital of Ethiopia. Here the TURN TO NEXT PAGE A FEAST FOR THE EYES: A home in Lalibela. Above, the Tississat or Blue Nile falls

2 EUAN CAMERON puts his preconceptions to one side as he marvels at the natural and the man-made majesty of this surprisingly tourist-friendly country

3 FROM PREVIOUS PAGE sights are man made and again not what you expect of Ethiopia medieval-style castles. Built in the 17th century, the architecture was influenced by Portuguese missionaries and looks more European than African. I spend the afternoon wandering the empty banqueting halls, towers and courtyards, before visiting the nearby Debre Birhan Selassie church with its elaborately painted angel ceiling. A modern town has sprung up around Gondar s ancient buildings, and that night in a restaurant we are entertained by Azmaris traditional Ethiopian minstrels who, in return for a small fee, will make up a song about how great you are. As they are singing in Amharic, my companions and I need a translator to make sure the flattery is up to scratch. It is they sing to one of my female companions that her beauty could buy a minibus. High praise indeed in Ethiopia. The following day I head for the Simien Mountains for a scenic hike, and soon encounter the most famous residents Gelada baboons. These passive baboons eat grass and have no fear of humans, so I am able to relax among a large group of them as they sit using their nimble fingers to crop the grass it s a real David Attenborough moment. Continuing upwards I am soon panting in the thin air at this altitude. The climb is worth it though, and as I emerge on a plateau I take in the view. Although not the tallest mountains in Africa, the Simiens are surely the most spectacular. Formed from the cores of extinct volcanoes their weird elongated shapes have led to them being referred to as the chess pieces of the gods. The next morning my companions and I head for the town of Axum. Here the green hills are cultivated by farmers using ox-drawn ploughs. Several times we get stuck in traffic not cars, but cows, goats, men on horseback and women walking with huge bundles balanced on their heads. It s market day and it appears everyone is on the move. Out of curiosity we stop at the market, a narrow warren of makeshift stalls with people loudly buying and selling everything clothes, goats, spices, medicine, frankincense, tools, tires and even a Soviet battle tank. Probably the most exotic thing at the market was ourselves. Faranji (foreigners) are a novelty here and children follow us wherever we go. On the road again the land begins to fall as we leave the highlands and the temperature increases. Gradually the green hills are replaced with brown plains dotted with acacias, cactus and the weird bulbous trunks of baobab trees, and men on horseback are replaced by men on camels as we approach Axum. HE Axumite Empire is the greatest civilisation of the ancient world that no one has heard of. At its height between the 1st and 7th centuries AD, it was regarded as being as important as the Roman and Persian Empires with whom it traded, and it has left a unique set of monuments for the visitor of today to marvel at the Stelae of Axum. These colossal obelisks, carved from solid blocks of granite, were the tomb markers of the kings of Axum. Some have crashed to the ground, but others remain standing after 1,700 years. At over 70 feet, they are testimony to the engineering skill of the Axumites. Nearby archaeologists have excavated several tombs and a guide takes us down into the dark passageways. The precision of the ancient stonework is remarkable but I don t get too close as torchlight reveals the tomb walls are home to some rather nasty looking spiders

4 Axum was a Christian civilisation and within site of the Stelea is the Church of St Mary of Zion which is said to contain the Ark of the Covenant, allegedly brought to Axum by the son of the Queen of Sheba and King Solomon. Unfortunately no one is allowed to see it and armed guards keep out any wannabe Indiana Joneses. Whether or not the Ark is really housed here, Ethiopia does contain a unique religious treasure unlike anything else in the world the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. According to Ethiopian legend the 12th-century King Lalibela, in response to a holy vision, ordered the construction of a series of churches, but rather than building them from the bottom up they were carved from the top down from solid rock. And so, back in Addis Ababa on my last night before returning home, I sip the local Tej honey wine and reflect on my time in Ethiopia. Far from the empty desert I had lazily expected, it is a country of breathtaking scenery, fascinating history and enchanting culture. One day soon I hope to return to discover what other treasures it holds. LOST EMPIRES: From top, an Axumite stelae; one of the castles of Gondar; a tank in Axum s market; and Bet Giyorgis Church in Lalibela GETTING THERE Prices on Exodus s Discover Ethiopia tour start from 2,099 per person for 15 days including return flights, transfers, accommodation, tours and most meals. Next departure on January 12. Visit or call to book. k

5