yak AEQ/Fjord en Ka NGA_Quebec_Oct09_R1.indd 1 8/5/09 4:21:48 PM

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1 AEQ/Fjord en Kayak

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3 charlevoix Culture and Wilderness where the Meteor Fell Three hundred and fifty million years ago, a meteor crashed into what is now the bucolic Charlevoix region along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River. Residents of the region are quick to point out Charlevoix s unique vibe and its seemingly magnetic cultural draw. After all, it was a retreat for wealthy British and Americans at the turn of the century, including U.S. President William Howard Taft, and is quickly becoming a hot destination for hip urbanites and foodies who are attracted to its low- key atmosphere and focus on local foods, including cheese and veal. Beyond all those civilized pursuits, Charlevoix is sublime wild country, boasting some of the best national parks along the St. Lawrence River and harboring secrets that range from waterfalls ripe for canyoneering to rare southern caribou. The area is so unique, in fact, that it has been recognized as a UN Biosphere Reserve. Parc National des Hautes- Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie lbai A national park that preserves both nature and culture, Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie is well within the magic of Charlevoix s meteor crater. The 10.5K-long hike to the top of L Acropole-des- Draveurs covers 800 vertical meters to put you in the alpine meadows at the top of the largest cliffs in eastern Canada. Pay close attention you hike through a cross-section of all the ecosystems of Québec here and, if you are lucky, you may spot the park s elk herd grazing at the summit. In fact, the park s brimming with wildlife, including everything from reintroduced salmon and arctic char in isolated high lakes to soaring bald eagles and browsing moose. Far down below, the Malbaie River cuts a deep path through the gorge and you can still see the remnants of the massive logging operations that took place here until The river was dammed and timber floated down by les draveurs, the often underpaid locals for whom the cliffs above are named. Despite that extractive history, the park supports some of the most pristine forest in Québec, including groves of 450-year-old ash trees. For a relaxing day, take one of many shorter hikes, rent a canoe, bike along the river or ride on the pleasure boat that cruises down the Malbaie. If you want extreme pursuits, make the difficult trip here in winter when world-class ice climbs like La Pomme d Or (V, WI5+) set up. There s camping here, too, even if you don t bring your gear. The clever Huttopia system means all you need is a sleeping bag and you can rent an A-frame tent fully decked out for the night. For even more high alpine meadows with big, breathtaking views of the surrounding Laurentian mountains, and even more caribou, head to nearby Parc national des Grands-Jardins. For more information on Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie go to sepaq.com/pq/hgo/en/. For Parc national des Grands-Jardins, go to sepaq.com/pq/grj/en/. To set up a tour with a naturalist, contact the park directly or contact Sépaq, sepaq.com. MTOQ/Fabrice Jousselin/Charlevoix

4 saguenay Beluga and Boats Cutting a deep channel through the surrounding hills and cliffs and mixing salt and fresh water in its tricky tides, the Saguenay Fjord, one of the longest fjords in the world, is so spectacular that it has been preserved as two parks. The Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park protects the water itself and marine life that calls it home, including protected St. Lawrence beluga, the elegant, white whales that live here year-round. Parc national du Saguenay protects the surrounding landscape including more than 100K of hiking trails and enchanted spots like the glacier-carved Baie Éternité with its soaring cliffs and statue of the Virgin Mary. Tucked into the midst of this natural splendor, the charming town of L Anse-Saint-Jean, typifies the region. Here, in a picturesque spot (it was actually featured on Canada s $1,000 bill) that has retained its authentic character, you ll find a vibrant community of outdoorsport-minded locals who paddle in the summer, ski in the winter, and hang out in the local bistro in between. If you want to experience the place like a local, hop in a sea kayak or go sailing so that you can drink it all in at water level. For more information on Parc national du Saguenay, visit: sepaq.com/pq/sag/en/. MTOQ/Christian Bélanger/Manicouagan Sea Kayak the Fjord The long, deep waters of Saguenay Fjord could be the most diverse spot to sea kayak in the world. It s ideal for beginners, since the narrow channel provides so many options. New paddlers can practice their skills close to shore and then test themselves with a short jaunt to an isolated camp site. But these waters also present some serious challenges. Combinations of tides and current make paddling here tricky perfect for advanced kayakers to hone their understanding of the water and decision-making skills. Plus, Québec s beluga whale population swims up river and it s a life-changing experience to see a white whale surface near your kayak as it makes its way up along the cliffs and green hills of the Saguenay. Using efficient, fiberglass boats, local operator Fjord en Kayak requires rigorous guide training and focuses on teaching clients to learn the waters and the handling of a kayak and will accommodate all levels of paddlers from newbies who have never donned a spray skirt to seasoned kayakers who want to make a five-day trip from L Anse-Saint-Jean to Tadoussac on the St. Lawrence River, camping and eating local gourmet food along the way. Contact Fjord en Kayak at fjord-en-kayak.ca. For information about sea kayaking or to plan a sea kayak trip: quebecadventure.ca/kayak. Sail the Fjord Catch the wind and jibe down the fjord, learning to work with the everchanging winds and fickle currents of this unique salt-and-fresh-water river. Much the same as paddling here, sailing the fjord offers the opportunity to enjoy the glacial-hewn vistas and improve your boating skills. In between you can sit for a civilized taste of the sailing life think smoked Atlantic salmon and local cheese from Lac Saint-Jean at the end of the fjord. You re sure to hear someone playing Ave Maria, a tradition for boats approaching the statue of the Virgin near the soaring cliffs of Baie Éternité. Parcours Aventures offers sailing trips and instruction from L Anse-Saint-Jean and Cap Jaseux. If you want a bigger adventure, the company runs seven-day trips all the way down the St. Lawrence to the tip of the Gaspé Peninsula. Go to parcoursaventures.com.

5 québec Adventure Parks The largest province in Canada, Québec offers boundless opportunities for pure wilderness adventure on the waves, in the mountains or in the Arctic. But the culture of the province is so infused with the spirit of adventure that you don t have to head deep into the wild or even possess extreme-sport skills to find an adrenaline rush. Extreme Fun Nestled in deep woods along the Saguenay Fjord, Cap Jaseux is nothing less than a grown-up, human-powered, outdoor-sport amusement park. The multi-sport destination offers rustic and developed camping, sea kayaking, sailing, a thrill-filled via ferrata course, mountain biking you can even spend a night here 30-feet off the ground in a tree house that looks like it came straight out of a fairy tale. But there is nothing anywhere like Cap Jaseux s canopy course. Sure, you say you have done a ropes course at summer camp or on a corporate retreat, and Cap Jaseux has that type of course and a course for kids. But the real highlight here is the Fjord en Arbre Extreme 33 physically-and mentally-challenging rope puzzles and eight zip lines 30 feet off the ground that s so hard no one has ever finished it without grabbing for the safety rope. There are rope swings, suspension bridges that roll out from under your feet, trapeze bars you need to jump for, tight ropes and a sorting tree that keeps those who don t have the guts for it on the ground. Oh, and for some of the puzzles you unclip from your safety-line belay and have to trust a net (which was designed by the same rigger who works for Cirque du Soleil) to save you if you slip. It s also so much fun it will make a big kid smile like she s back in summer camp. AEQ To book a trip, go to capjaseux.com. Scale the Iron Road Via ferrata began as a way for Italian soldiers to climb over the steepest cliffs in the Alps during the World Wars. The term means iron road in Italian, because the soldiers fixed a cable and metal ladders into the rock so that they could climb exposed pitches on belay, by clipping into the cable and sliding it along as they ascended. Via ferrata has evolved into a form of climbing that appeals to everyone. Novices like it because they can have the full experience of climbing on a big wall in safety with the ability to grab onto the cable if things get dicey, experienced climbers can choose to never touch the cable and follow the course, performing and practicing technical moves. Because it makes climbing so accessible, via ferrata is catching on fast in Québec. MTOQ/Sylvain Majeau/Laurentides The soaring rock faces of Palissades of Charlevoix claim some of the best courses in the province 700-meter-long, 150-meterhigh Le Lynx and 950-meter-long, 350-meter-high Le Faucon (both end with a harrowing rope-bridge walk and 70-meter-long rappel) and outstanding climbing guides to show you the cables. But the place is also a melting pot for the climbing community. The rock climbing itself at Palissades is outstanding, too, featuring trad and bolted routes that run from 5.4 to Furthermore, local climbing legend and Everest-summiter Francois-Guy Thivierge runs a small hostel and campground at the base, where visitors can play on a small climbing wall, eat, or just hang out and talk shop. For more information, go to lascensation.com. For more information on via ferrata, canyoning and adventure parks go to quebecadventure.ca/aerialadventure.

6 Québec City: The Heart of it All If you visit the province of Québec, a short trip to old Québec City is mandatory. This is, after all, the source of French and Québecois culture in the New World and the charming narrow streets, eclectic shops, bustling cafés and sauntering locals give it all the buzz of a European town. But United States history traces back here, too. George Washington fought here in the French and Indian Wars and sent Benedict Arnold to capture the city during the American Revolution (he failed). Now, Québec is a distinct culture within a culture, allowed to keep its French language, religion, and culture when Canada was first formed, and following a distinct path ever since. That spirit enlivens the whole province. Bask in it. Gaze out across the St. Lawrence from the ramparts of the citadel, try a macron from a French Bakery and don t miss an impromptu free Cirque du Soleil performance in the streets (the show that s big in Vegas was actually born here). For a bit of activity along with your education, hire a walking or bike tour. Contact ENF Canada to set one up: enfcanada.com. MTOQ/Linda Turgeon/Québec Know Your Guide Aventure Écotourisme Québec (AEQ) is a government-sanctioned organization of outdoor outfitters who offer adventure travel and eco-tourism trips throughout the province. It sets strict standards for member guides and is the best resource for investigating outfitters in Québec. Still, the organization stresses that clients should also make it their responsibility to know their guides, to stay safe, and have the best experience possible. Find more information at AEQ s web site: quebecadventure.ca.

7 québec Water Adventures Most adventures in Québec involve the water. After all, the province contains countless lakes and rivers and 71,410 square miles of fresh water (three percent of the fresh water on the planet) not to mention the massive salt water estuary of the St. Lawrence River around which so much of life here revolves. In other words, the province offers numerous ways to get wet and have a blast doing it. Whitewater:Paddle and Splash All that water in Québec translates into a whole range of rivers to run. Closest to downtown Québec City, the Jacques-Cartier, especially the fun 9K run near Donnaconna, offers easy rapids that novices can run in duckies. It s also ideal water to learn to kayak and to surf standing waves. The river cuts through quiet shale banks interspersed by springs and seeps. This is bald eagle habitat and if you look under the water s surface you may even spot the bird s favorite prey salmon and rainbow trout. If you want to raise the stakes, run the Sainte-Catherine section of the river, which serves up class III and IV rapids. Further afield from Québec City, you can find longer trips that will pump up your adrenaline levels. The Batiscan River is ideal for a two-day trip of exhilarating class III IV whitewater. The Rivière Rouge gushes down through the Laurentide mountains boasting some of the best accessible whitewater in Canada, including the world famous Seven Sisters, which vary from class III to class V depending on water flows. In the Saguenay Lac-Saint- Jean region, the Métabetchouan, Mistassibi and Shipshaw rivers, all offer good thrills in the ancient water-carved valleys of the Laurentians. For more details about this expedition, contact H20 Expédition et Aventures: aventure-expedition.com. For more information on rafting activities and expeditions or to plan a whitewater trip: quebecadventure.ca/rafting. Canyoning: Feel the Full Force of a Waterfall Called canyoneering in the U.S., canyoning encompasses following a river down its entire natural path, taking the most aesthetic and pure line, sometimes reaching hanging gardens that have never felt a human footfall. What does it matter if that line requires rappelling down along or straight through raging waterfalls that s what makes the sport so much fun. For an introduction, meet guide Marc Tremblay at Mont Sainte-Anne, just a half-hour from downtown and drop down the limestone chutes of Jean Larose Falls. If you re game you can try the Washing Machine, which will buffet you with the full force of the river as you descend before you swim out the cool pool below. Tremblay has pioneered the sport in Québec as well as opened new routes in Cuba and can also bring clients on all-day trips in backwoods Charlevoix and other off-the-beaten-path spots, where canyoneering becomes as much of an expedition as a thrill. Contact Tremblay at Canyoning Québec, to try it: canyoning-quebec.com. AEQ/New World Expedition Marc Tremblay/Canyoning-Québec

8 nunavik Untamed wilderness lures travelers to Québec s far north In Inuktitut, the language of the Inuit, Nunavik means a place to live. While it may be just that for the native people, the ruggedness and isolation of Québec s far north also make it one of the most wild spots left on the planet, a place where travelers can truly take a step back in time. For the rest of the world, Nunavik means a place for adventure. The region s stunning national parks cover vast, varied landscapes that see few human visitors besides local Inuit. The Kuururjuaq rises from Ungava Bay to the summits of the Torngat Mountains in the east. Tursujuq encompasses important swaths of northern biological diversity from Richmond Gulf and Clearwater Lake in the west. Or visit Pingualuit, which protects the pristine waters of an undisturbed crater lake. In all three you very well may have a close encounter with local wildlife such as tuktu (caribou), nanuk (polar bear) or mittik (eider duck). So how do you explore the place? Nunavik offers everything from expedition-style adventures to a chance to simply unplug far from the rest of the world. Variety is the key, whether you re sea kayaking, trekking or just learning about Inuit culture and its origins. The Arctic cruise industry even offers several stops in Nunavik that allow visitors to experience natural beauty and generate important local economic benefits for the region s communities. Rudimentary hotels are operated in every local community also. Even more compelling than the landscape and wildlife of Nunavik is the people. The region s 11,000 inhabitants live in 14 modern communities along the coasts of Ungava Bay, Hudson Strait, and Hudson Bay. They have managed to maintain their language and a distinct culture deeply rooted in tradition and informed by their interaction with the land. Any visit to Nunavik begins in these native communities with the people who do call this unspoiled land a place to live. How to Visit Nunavik Forget about driving. No roads connect the region to southern Québec there aren t even any local roads connecting Nunavik s communities. Air transport is mandatory. Luckily, all of Nunavik s tourism operators are prepared to help you plan to fly here. To learn more, visit the web sites of Nunavik s parks: nunavikparks.ca, the Nunavik Tourism Association: nunavik-tourism.com and the Avataq Cultural Institute: avataq.qc.ca. MTOQ/Heiko Wittenborn/Nord-du-Québec To book the trip of a lifetime in Québec s far north, contact Inuit Adventures: inuitadventures@fcnq.ca or ENF Canada: enfcanada.com. MTOQ/Heiko Wittenborn/Nord-du-Québec

9 The Chic-Chocs Mountain Lodge: Your Own Alpine Paradise Think of the Chic-Chocs Mountain Lodge as your own private slice of alpine paradise in the wild heart of the Gaspé Peninsula. These mountains are big enough to create their own weather as they rise up in a solid wall off the southern shore of the St. Lawrence estuary. They re filled with secrets swatches of alpine meadows with grazing caribou, lakes filled with trout, huts along the International Appalachian Trail, waterfalls, a ridiculously high concentration of moose and the best backcountry skiing and riding on the Eastern Seaboard come winter. Even better, the only way you can visit this charmed spot is by staying at the Chic-Chocs Mountain Lodge. The philosophy behind the lodge, which is managed by Sépaq, is to maximize the wild experience of the place while still offering stylish amenities you ll find everything from a scotch bar, to naturalist guides to lead you on walks to see moose, to a hot tub with a wilderness view. In winter, the skiing, riding, and snowshoeing takes advantage of the Chic-Chocs abundant snow, which is kicked up by the heavy moisture of the St. Lawrence and dumped down as dry powder when it hits the high peaks. For more information, go to: sepaq.com/chc/en/accueil.html. Vallée Bras-du-Nord: A New Concept in Adventure Tucked in the quiet mountains outside the charming town of Saint-Raymond, the Vallée Bras-du-Nord offers hiking, canoeing, mountain biking, canyoneering, ice climbing, and an extensive network of backcountry yurts, cabins, and huts. But the most amazing thing about the place is that it s a co-op, a first-of-itskind collaboration of private land owners, government agencies, logging companies and outfitters all working together to preserve the splendor of this magical valley and keep it accessible. It has worked incredibly well, the whole community has taken ownership of the project, with some private landowners even building their own cabins to house guests. The heart of the region is the Bras-du-Nord itself, a quiet stream ideal for lazy canoe trips where visitors can paddle the river or combine it with a trek along hiking trails which were built by at-risk youth, many of whom now work in conservation and the co-op will rent you boats and space in a yurt along the way. Make sure to stop and marvel at Chute Delaney, a cascading waterfall that once served as an extreme flume for Irish immigrant loggers. For more information and to book a trip go to: valleebrasdunord.com. AEQ/Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie More Parks in Style Québec s government agency, Sépaq, manages 22 national parks, 15 wildlife reserves and nine tourist resorts that combine natural beauty with classy amenities. Close to Québec City, the Station Touristique Duchesnay is a hotel in the wild, ideal for a quick getaway close to town, offering rooms with a view of Lac Saint-Joseph alongside cross country skiing, snowshoeing, dog sledding, snowmobiling, swimming, canoeing, hiking and archery. For information on all Sépaq facilities and parks go to: sepaq.com. Call of the Wild Don t be scared off by Québec s winters all the snow only offers more opportunities to get out and explore the wild corners of the province. Perhaps the best way and certainly one that connects into the history of the place is by dog sled. Guides make it simple and the bond you build with the animals makes the experience powerful. For information, go to: quebecadventure.ca/dogsled. MTOQ/Heiko Wittenborn/Nord-du-Québec

10 st. lawrence Whale Watching Get Up Close with the Whales of the St. Lawrence Protected as a national marine park, the confluence where the fresh water of the Saguenay River flows into the salt water of the St. Lawrence Estuary is one of the most unique biological locales on the planet and perhaps the best to get close to whales. That s because the St. Lawrence is incredibly deep where it meets the Saguenay and where the fresh water from the river fjord flows into the salt water of the estuary. At the same time, the Laurentian current coming downriver collides with the Labrador current coming upriver from the Arctic and a churning wall of biodiverse life forms, bringing in whales who feed on krill and plankton. Beluga whales live year-long in the area and you are almost sure to spot a minke whale as well but you also have a good chance of watching larger whales. Fin whales, sperm whales, occasional humpbacks and right whales and most impressive of all, massive blue whales, the largest living creature ever, all come to feed here. The chance of seeing a blue whale surface and blow at close range alone makes the area magical to see it from a kayak is an indescribable experience. MTOQ/Jean-Guy Lavoie/Manicouagan Mer et Monde Perhaps you have been on a whale watch before, but nothing can prepare you for the experience of paddling along with surfacing beluga headed straight for you or hearing the distant blow of a fin whale grow louder as it approaches. This is the experience that Mer et Monde offers at Les Bergeronnes, a sleepy town with a rocky coastline that drops off deep and immediate so much so that whales will swim and surface within a few feet of shore. Mer et Monde will bring you out in a kayak, offering instruction as well as the expertise of guides who spend every day with the whales and have learned to react to their behavior to get you up close, while still respecting the animals and staying sensitive to their natural behavior. Sometimes the tables turn. You can be out on the water, paddling and rocking in the swell of the St. Lawrence, and curious whales will come in to observe you. For a real night with the whales, sleep at Mer et Monde s Cave Cove campground where tent and bivvy platforms are built on the rocks so that you can go to sleep staring up into a sky full of stars and hear the whale s blow just yards from you out in the sea. Or take a sound and light night kayak tour, where you paddle under the stars, drop a hydrophone into the sea and listen to whale songs and watch natural phosphorescence sparkle around your boat. For information or to set up a trip, go to meretmonde.ca. MTOQ/Sylvain Majeau/Duplessis Cruising Québec Adventure in the province does not have to be all dirt and adrenaline. Take a cruise and it can be quite civilized, even romantic. Riding a liner can be the best way to see the wonders of the St. Lawrence River and the Saguenay Fjord. After all, a cruise offers the chance to observe the region s whales and other aquatic mammals all day long, while you relax and sample world class food and wine. Or take a ride out to the wild islands of the St. Lawrence Estuary see the weathered cliffs of the Mingan Archipelago, the gannet colony on Île- Bonaventure and the sleepy shores of the Îles-de-la-Madeleine. All you have is a day? Simply laze away an afternoon seeing the sights of Québec, Trois-Rivières or Montréal from waterlevel. For more information on Québec cruises, go to bonjourquebec.com. MTOQ/Christian Bélanger/Manicouagan

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