DESERT SOLITAIRE. Pinnaclemag.com

Transcription

1 DESERT SOLITAIRE Inconvenient and remote, Moab, Utah is an oft-overlooked gem for true wilderness enthusiasts. Despite its renowned Slickrock Trail and its close proximity to two national parks, Moab remains largely unvisited by the throngs of tourists that heavily populate other natural attractions during peak seasons. On average, this area only gets about half as many visitors as Bryce or Zion National Parks. What does this mean for those who do seek out this isolated realm? A uniquely inspiring, and relaxing, escape from the masses an escape to an alien environment that teases the senses and tickles the imagination. This is a world of twisting canyons, soaring arches, precarious spires, mysterious hoodoos, towering fins, and other formations that defy easy classification formations with names that similarly spark curiosity: Eye of the Whale, Upheaval Dome, and Paul Bunyan s Potty to name a few. The adventures near Moab are numerous and varied, with too many hidden surprises to enjoy in just one trip. But the following excursions are sure to whet your appetite and lure you back for more. Pinnaclemag.com 75

2 Delicate Arch Located only two miles north of Moab, Arches National Park boasts the highest concentration of natural sandstone arches and bridges in the world. Although many of the arches can be viewed from the road, including the Windows Section and the amazing Double Arch, some of the most spectacular experiences demand more effort. The park s most recognizable attraction is the picturesque Delicate Arch, an eroded remnant of a sandstone fin. The arch stands perched on the brink of a canyon and dramatically frames the snow-capped La Sal Mountains in the background. Although the arch can be seen from a lower viewpoint, only those willing to hike the 3 mile round trip can truly experience the grandeur of this formation. The trail ascends nearly five hundred feet of exposed slickrock, and it s common to hear uninitiated visitors moan and complain during this climb. But the sweat and the aches are forgotten at the trail s conclusion, when hikers are treated to the best surprise in the park a shaded fin pulling away like a curtain to reveal the magnificent arch, often aglow as though by firelight under an azure sky. Devil s Garden Over 2,000 arches have been catalogued in Arches National Park. They range in size from a three foot opening, the minimum size to be considered an arch, to the largest at over three hundred feet. Longer than a football field, Landscape arch is a narrow ribbon of stone that somehow defies gravity to etch its profile on the sky. But Landscape Arch is only one of more than a dozen that can be visited in the Devil s Garden area. The 7.2 mile primitive loop trail ventures well beyond Landscape Arch, passing Wall, Navajo, and Partition Arches before climbing onto a tall sandstone fin. Like tightrope walkers, hikers must fight their natural vertigo to traverse this narrow fin before reaching Double O Arch and the looming spire, Dark Angel, at the trail s end. The primitive loop trail circles back to the east into the Fin Canyon area, passing the aptly named Private Arch, a 38 foot span that remained unknown until its official discovery only fifteen years ago, in The trail rejoins the main Devil s Garden trail near Landscape Arch, but visitors should set aside a few extra minutes to walk spur trails to the nearby Tunnel and Pine Tree arches before returning to the parking area. Even then, Broken Arch, Skyline Arch, and Sand Dune Arch are all easily accessed from the road.

3 W I L D E R N E S S we scarcely know what we mean by the term, though the sound of it draws all whose nerves and emotions have not yet been irreparably stunned, deadened, numbed by the caterwauling of commerce, the sweating scramble for profit and domination. Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire Fisher Towers The national parks are not the only reason to visit Moab. Fisher Towers, located about 20 miles northeast of Moab, is one of the most scenic landscapes along the Colorado River. Featured in numerous Hollywood Westerns, the Fisher Towers Recreation Site is a popular destination for rock climbers and hikers alike. The moderate, 4.4 mile trail winds its way along the base of the towers before ascending to a scenic overlook of the Professor Valley and the Colorado River. Visitors can marvel at the overwhelming height of the towers as well as the strange, mud-like formations that appear to be frozen in time. Fisher Towers contains several layers of sedimentary rock in various shades of red-brown, red-purple, and maroon. The changing colors are caused by varying amounts of iron oxide. The upper, darker part of Fisher Towers consists of Moenkopi Sandstone that is approximately 245 million years old. The middle and lower parts of the towers are made up of Cutler Sandstone, which is approximately 290 million years old. Erosion affects these layers at different rates, taking millennia to carve the intricate formations we now see. Utah s answer to the Grand Canyon, Dead Horse Point soars 2,000 feet over the Colorado River. This State Park offers spectacular panoramic views that words Left Page: Southern view of Delicate Arch Righ Page: (top to bottom) Eastern view of Fisher Towers, Tunnel Arch in the morning, Delicare Arch at sunset. Pinnaclemag.com 77

4 PLANNING YOUR VISIT Whether you choose to experience one of these adventures or to try something different, Moab is a secluded destination unlike any other. This landscape is a portrait of fragile extremes that depend on your care and respect. Please plan your trip carefully: obtain necessary permits in advance, bring adequate water, follow marked routes whenever possible, avoid sensitive cryptobiotic soil, and do not touch rock art or disturb archaeological sites. For more information, please contact the Moab Information Center at ; D e a d H o r s e P o i n t and photos simply cannot adequately describe. The sense of expansive awe is immediate, and often daunting, to many visitors who dare to step to the cliff s edge. Located approximately 30 miles northwest of Moab, Dead Horse Point is named for an old legend in which the point was used as a corral for wild horses. Cowboys would herd the mustangs across the narrow neck and out onto the point. The neck, which is only 30 yards wide, was then fenced, thereby containing the horses in a natural corral surrounded by steep cliffs. Stranded on the waterless point, many horses died of thirst, within view of the Colorado River thousands of feet below. Whether traveling to or from Canyonlands National Park or making a special trip from Moab, the view at Dead Horse Point is not to be missed. Pack a lunch, bring a camera, and try not to get dizzy looking straight down. The White Rim Not all Moab mountain biking is restricted to the Slickrock Trail. The White Rim Trail is Utah s ultimate multi-day bike experience. This 103 mile loop follows an old jeep road through Canyonlands National Park. Although the trail is not difficult, the trail ultimately ascends between 4,000 and 6,000 feet total (depending on side trips) enough to make any rider s legs tremble. Most riders spend three or four days on the trail. Campgrounds are spaced every few miles, and most riders depend on a support vehicle for food, water, camping gear, and bike parts. Although there is little dangerous terrain, the sheer length of the trail requires most riders to perform at least some basic bike repairs. Side trips and stop-and-gawk attractions are common. Some of the more famous include Musselman Arch, Lathrop Canyon, White Crack, Murphy s Trail, and the Syncline Valley Trail. But watch for signs and follow all posted rules most side trails prohibit bikes. Permits are required to ride the White Rim Trail, and camping reservations should be made in advance. For more information, check with the National Park Service.

5 Corona Arch The Potash Road follows the banks of the Colorado River as it winds to the southwest of Moab. The road offers several scenic attractions including Native American rock art and dinosaur tracks, but the real highlight is the 3 mile round-trip hike up Bootlegger Canyon to Corona Arch. Often called Little Rainbow Bridge, Corona Arch is a large semi-freestanding arch with a 140 foot by 105 foot opening. A smaller arch, Bowtie Arch, is located adjacent to Corona and is a nice added attraction along the trail. The trail ascends from the signed Corona Arch Trailhead to a bench where it crosses railroad tracks before climbing deeper into the canyon. Cairns mark the route to the northeast as it approaches the base of a large sandstone cliff. In The sense of expansive awe is immediate, and often daunting, to many visitors who dare to step to the cliff s edge. the distance, Corona Arch comes into view where a safety cable protects a slightly exposed portion of the trail. Soon after, a second cable and a series of carved steps indicate where the trail climbs up onto another wide bench that curves around, under Bowtie Arch, to the base of Corona. Although there is little exposure, the dropoff here is steep. Stories, as well as pictures, of the arch abound in the town of Moab. Many feature a daredevil local pilot who apparently delights in thrilling his passengers by flying through the arch s large opening. Some climbers have also been seen rappelling from the top of the arch. One can only hope the pilot and the climbers don t ever choose to visit the arch at the same time! Above: Corona arch in late July Right: hieroglyphs In Southern Utah Pinnaclemag.com 79