Perspectives of Eco-labels in the Context of EU Flower

Transcription

1 March 22, 2011 INSTITUTE OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY (ICT) N. M. Parikh Marg, Matunga, Mumbai NOTICE K. H.Kabbur Memorial Lecture Dr.G.S.Nadiger Research Advisor, BTRA Mumbai Will deliver the K. H.Kabbur Memorial Lecture Lecture on Perspectives of Eco-labels in the Context of EU Flower Venue: Prof. K. Venkataraman Auditorium, ICT Date: Tuesday, March 29, Time: 4.30 p.m. to 5.30 pm (High Tea at 4.00 p.m.) Professor P. M. Bhate, Head, Dyestuff Technology Department will preside over the lecture. All are cordially invited.

2 Perspectives of Eco-labels in the Context of EU Flower Dr.G.S.Nadiger 1.0 Introduction i) Product related ii) Process related Research Advisor, BTRA Mumbai The Textile Industry occupies a unique place in India as it accounts for 14% of the total industrial production, contributes to nearly 33% of the total exports and is the second largest employment generator after Agriculture. The vast potential for creation of employment, in the agriculture, industrial, both organised and decentralised sectors, rural and urban areas are note worthy. With the disappearance of formal barriers and quantitative restrictions, after the year 2004, companies whose fundamentals are strong and are of quality-environmentally, socially and cost-consciousness wise- would alone survive in such a highly competitive trade environment. With the integration of markets, the distinction between domestic and export markets are no longer be valid. The Indian industry, which has been heavily dependent on quotas, has been gearing up not only to retain the present market share but also to enhance it. A brief analysis of the status of environment-related issues in the Indian Textile Industry, the global demand, the compliance level of the Industry as well as the various steps and action needed to be taken to remain competitive in the Global market is essential. In this pursuit, a number of market access tools are made available to objectively give evidence on compliance level. Some of them are statutory in nature and some are voluntary. Under the free market, many feel that these are some sorts of non-tariff barriers. The Non-Tariff Barriers (NTBs) which consist of a wide range of issues like quality norms, environmental specifications, subsidies, social issues, etc., are going to determine the market access and share of textile products in the absence of quantitative restrictions. Out of these, environmental issues are the most significant. Such environmental issues can broadly be classified as: While each country has its own regulatory framework governing these aspects, there have been numerous voluntary standards/guidelines with respect o the environmental/ecological compliance by manufacturing companies/products. An attempt is made to bring home the status of such environment-related issues in the context of European Eco-label-EU Page 1 of 16

3 Flower and suggests an appropriate action plan to be in the international market. 2.0 Process related Environmental issues Process related environmental issues primarily revolve around the way goods are manufactured. With the objective of minimizing an adverse impact on the environment due to manufacturing activity, an institutional framework with a plethora of laws/rules/guidelines/standards have emerged over a period of time. In India, the regulatory framework, governing the environmental compliance of textiles manufacturing activities has been in place for the past many years. The Ministry of Environment & Forests, Govt. of India and the State Governments are responsible for the formulation of regulations and the overall monitoring of compliance of the industry to such regulations. Despite the existence of stringent environmental laws/regulations, the compliance level by the Indian textile industry has not been very satisfactory. It has been common knowledge that a large number of textile units, particularly processing, fail to meet many of these norms. The highly decentralized nature of the Indian textile industry further complicates the enforcement of legislation. For example, the fragmented and small-scale nature of the industry cannot support an individual treatment plant in every company. The solution to this problem is to have common effluent treatment plants on the basis of sharing of costs. Barring a few textile clusters in the country, the concept of common ETP is yet to become popular in the industry. State Governments and other local authorities need to facilitate eco-compliance by the textiles companies by way of infrastructure support like supply of water of acceptable quality, earmarking suitable area for ETPs and dumping of sludge, etc. Use of eco-friendly substances in the entire value-chain, right from the raw-material stage to finishing and packing is an important aspect of producing eco-friendly textiles. The Indian textile industry needs to recognize this aspect and take necessary measures by switching over to safer alternatives. The Environmental Management System (EM- ISO14000) offer comprehensive, independent and verifiable standards governing all critical aspects related to environmental systems to the manufacturing companies. The system, if implemented, will not only be helpful in meeting the requirements of regulatory authorities but will also be an effective tool in enhancing the market share of the companies. The system will also lead to operational efficiency by way of optimum utilization of resources like Page 2 of 16

4 water and electricity. The number of textile companies certified under ISO in India is barely around 60.This indicates an urgent necessity for the textile manufacturing companies particularly the processing industries, to adopt the ISO EM systems, which will go a long way in ensuring sustainable development and market acceptability. 3.0 Product related Environmental issues The primary concern of the customer/user is that the textiles purchased by him should not have any substance harmful to human health. With this concern as the primary focus, many standards banning/limiting the presence of various hazardous substances in textiles and clothing have emerged in the Globe was the first country to impose a comprehensive ban/limit on the presence of azo dyes capable of releasing 22 harmful amines. The names of these 22 amines are given in the Annexure I. Many other countries including India followed this ban. The Government of India had prohibited handling of Benzedrine and azo-based dyes (112 commercial dyes) capable of releasing any of the 22 harmful amines, as listed in Annexure II. 4.0 Hazardous Substances and Their Relevance to Eco-labels Textile eco labels, which prescribe the norms for presence of harmful substances in products, have been the best instruments for the companies to demonstrate the compliance of their products to the econorms. Most of the eco-labels initially adopt a Cradle-to-Grave approach for the manufacturing of eco-friendly textiles. Now the current thinking is to have life cycle consideration. All of them are voluntary in nature. Most of these labels cover the following substances: (i) Formaldehyde, (ii) Toxic pesticides, (iii) Pentachlorophenol (PCP), (iv). Heavy metal traces, (v) Azo dyes which release carcinogenic amines, (vi) Halogen carriers, (vii) Chlorine bleaching. The norms for the presence of these substances vary from label to label. The Government of India has also brought out a voluntary eco-mark scheme prescribing the limitations for the presence of the substances. There has been a proliferation of eco-labels in the West, particularly the EU countries in the recent past. This situation often leads to confusion not only amongst the customers but also amongst the suppliers. Therefore, the Coordination Committee for Textile Industries in the EEC (COMITEXTIL) brought out a single label. It is further understood that this label is revised in the name of EC-Eco-label by taking the salient features Page 3 of 16

5 of various private eco-labels into account. The Indian textile companies, barring some companies, are yet to get into the culture of acquiring eco labels for their products. With increasing competition, an eco-label displayed on products, will certainly enhance the market image and access of a product. Though the expenses on account of eco-labeling are relatively high, they should be treated as investments for long-term gains. Life cycle assessment is the analysis of the product or services through all stages of its life cycle, raw materials acquisition, manufacturing transportation used / reused/ maintenance, recycling / waste management and relevant energy supply systems. Life cycle assessment helps companies to look at all aspects of their operations and integrate them into their overall decision-making process. LCA is the scientific way of advising customers about the environmental burdens of the product. It increases the environmental effectiveness, as product would be defined to have lower impact on environment after a careful product scrutiny. Table 1: Organizations involved in Eco-labeling schemes Legal status Organization Eco-label Examples Private Non-Governmental Godd Environmental Organizations (NGOs) choice (Sweden) Institution Related Öko-Tex (EcoTex) 100 () Öko-Tex (EcoTex) 1000 () Öko-Tex (EcoTex) () Producer s association Company related AKN Trademark () Steilmann Otto Varsand Hess Natur Green Cotton Page 4 of 16

6 Government National Multinational EKO-Seal (Holland) Environmental Choice (Canada) Eco-Mark (Japan) Green Mark (China- Taiwan) Eco-Mark (Korea) Environmental Labeling (China) Eco-Mark (India) EU-label Nordic Eco-label Table 2: Labels and product groups covered by each eco-label Eco-label Product Country Eco label T-shirts (cotton), bed-linen, bed sheets, pillow cases, valances, removable. Washable quilt or duvet covers. In future : Other cotton / polyester garments, clothes made of other fibres and eventually other textile products. European Union Oko-Tex Product Class: I II III IV Toxproof Toxproof with permanent skin contact Toxproof baby clothing Eco-proof For babies and infants With skin contact Without skin contact For furnishing material Body clothing, shirts, blouses, sports clothing, underwear, stockings, nightwear, bed clothing, bedding, bathroom fabrics, blankets Clothing for babies up to 36 months of age Certification of an ecological production method for textiles Leather or plastic materials in textiles Schadstoff gepr fft 1000 Certification of eco-management within a given company Page 5 of 16

7 Eco-label Product Country Oko All textile products AKN Clothing, bedding trademark and members Otto Versand Clothing, home textiles Brita Casual wear Steilmann Hess Natur Underwear, outer wear, baby clothing, bed-linen Nordic Environmental Labelling (Miljomarkf) The criteria apply to textiles made from cotton, sheep wool, flax, polyamide polyester, viscose Lyocell (Tencel) or acetate Sweden, Norway, Ireland Finland Swan A Swan B Swan C Swan D Swan E Swan F Swan G Swan H Good environmental choice Yarns; ply-yarns, loose stock, staple fibres, Baby clothing Clothing Outerwear Curtains Furnishing textiles Bed linen Other kind of textiles All textiles products containing at least 95% by weight of textile fibres Page 6 of 16 Sweden KRAV Textile from organic fibres Sweden EKO-Seal Clothing, underwear, cloth diapers, towel and household textiles The Netherlands Stitching Milieukeur The Netherlands Milieukeur clothing / textile Textile for use in clothing and clothes Milieukeur In future bed linen EKO-Seal Textile from organic fibres The Netherlands Environmental Organic cotton products Canada choice Eco mark Japan Japan Cloth diapers, unbleached clothes, bedlinen, towels, cloth shopping bags, textiles made of waster fibres, clothing made of used PET

8 Eco-label Product Country Green Mark Taiwan province Reusable diapers, unbleached towels, cloth shopping bags Taiwan Eco-Mark Republic of Korea Eco-Mark India China Environmental Labeling Good Environmental Choice Reusable diapers, unbleached towels, cloth shopping bags Textiles cotton, wool, silk, man-made fibres, jute Silk product Clothes, home textiles 5.0 European Eco-label- EU Flower Korea India China Sweden 5.1 Issuing Agency The EU Eco-label was established in 1992 by the European Community Regulation with the aim of helping consumers to identify products which are less damaging to the environment across the whole of their life cycle. The EU eco-label scheme, laid down in Council Regulation (EEC) 880/92, is one element of a wide strategy aimed at promoting sustainable production and consumption. The strategy embraces the promotion of environmentally aware behaviour patterns, in particular by identifying and promoting "green" products. It should be noted that all EU directives, once adopted, override national legislation The EU eco-label is voluntary, but finding increasing acceptance in member states. Further, as the EU moves towards equalization and harmonization of standards between member states, it is perceived that the EU flower will override, or replace, some of the other existing labeling schemes. Page 7 of 16

9 5.2Objective To develop eco-labeling criteria encompassing process and productrelated criteria following the procedures of life-cycle analysis together with stipulating quality requirements. To influence the market by guiding consumers toward products with a reduced environmental impact. 5.3 Product Categories Bed linen T shirts Bed mattresses Footwear Textile Products 5.4 Main Features - The commission has delegated to member states the responsibility of establishing criteria for different product groups and for designating national component bodies responsible for processing applications for the European eco-label at a national level. - Test methods are standardized in detail. - Bans of certain substances according to European legislation are effectuated; compliance is verified by testing the final product as well as yarn and grey fabric prior to wet treatment. In case the manufacturer gives a declaration for non-use of chlorine bleach or halogenated carriers the respective tests need not be carried out. - The chemical oxygen demand (COD) of wastewater from wet treatment is limited and determined according to the ISO 6060 standard for water quality. - Occupational Conditions too have been considered. A written assessment of the risks to safety and health at work has to be submitted as part of the application. - There are several others added to the list including ban on CCl4, Brominated flame retardants etc. 5.5 Application Procedure Manufacturers, importers and retailers may apply for the eco-label at the competent body in the member state where their product is manufactured or first marketed, or imported from a third county. The application must include all required verification documents. The competent body checks the application on the basis of the ecological criteria for the relevant product group that has already been adopted. If Page 8 of 16

10 it decides to award the label, usually for a period of two years, it has to notify the EC Commission. The competent bodies in other member states are also informed The EU Eco-label Award Scheme standardizes national eco-labeling schemes among its members. Each member state has to set up competent bodies to which manufacturers must make their application, based on a standardized contract. An application fee as well as an annual fee is also made, based on the annual sales volume of the product in question. The period of validity of the labels is typically three years. 5.6 Standards Chemicals For Garments For Household and furnishing textiles Certain azo-dyes Prohibited Prohibited Formaldehyde 75 ppm 75 ppm Pentachlorophenol Prohibited Prohibited Pesticide Other Compounds Quality or process demands Arsenic and other toxic and carcinogenic metals Prohibited (list of 25 subst) Prohibited chlorogenic carriers Yes No use of metals in pesticides, dyes and pigments Prohibited (list of 25 subst) Prohibited chlorogenic carriers Yes No use of metals in pesticides, dyes and pigments 6.0 Other Textile Eco-labeling Schemes recognized in the EU A number of national eco-labeling systems exist and are recognized within the EU. Those related to textiles are; Page 9 of 16

11 Name of the label Countries in which it is applicable Specific product group in textiles sector where it is applicable EU Eco-label All members of EU Mattresses (criteria awaiting formal adoption) Textile products (criteria under development_ Milieukeur Label 15 EU member states Stiftung Warentest Swan (Nordic Ecolabel) Bra Miljöval (Good Environmental Choice) Private labels Neckermann Umweltprädikat (Eco Seal), Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden Sweden Clothing, Cleaning cloths, Toys, Cotton Hand dryers Textiles Diapers, Textiles Diapers, Textiles Textiles Umweltbaum Textiles Empfohlen vom Furniture, carpets IBR (recommended by IBR) WWF Panda Textiles 7.0 Concluding Remarks Today EU is one of the key zones for exporting textile and clothing items from India. EU flower is backed with legislative and private views incorporated to make the environmental labeling comprehensive. The issues related to process and product eco-friendliness and interalia the environmental issues including global warming and depletion of ozone layer are addressed in an integrated manner. Page 10 of 16

12 In view of the above, as an exporting country, India has to prepare to comply with the requirements in an integrated way, not in bits and pieces. The issues like quality management, environment management, waste management, social compliance etc will serve the purpose of total compliance of the labeling scheme. The implementation of these is not difficult but requires a strong will and commitment to global relevance. Page 11 of 16

13 Annexure I LIST OF 22 HARMFUL AMINES BANNED BY GERMANY 1. 4-Amino biphenyl (CAS-No.: ) 2. Benzidine (CAS-No.: ) 3. 4-Chlor-o-toluidine (CAS-No ) 4. 2-Naphthylamine (CAS-No.: ) 5. P- Chloro aniline (CAS-No ) 6. 2,4-Diaminoanisole (CAS-No ) 7. 4,4'-Diamino diphenyl methane (CAS No.: ) 8. 3,3'-Dichloro Benzidine (CAS-No.: ) 9. 3,3'-Dimethoxy Benzidine (CAS-No.: ) 10. 3,3'-Dimethyl Benzidine (CAS-No.: ) 11. 3,3'-Dimethyl-4, 4 -diamino diphenyl methane (CAS-No.: ) 12. P-Cresidine (CAS-No.: ) 13. 4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) (CAS No.: ) 14. 4,4'-Oxydianiline (CAS-No.: ) 15. 4,4'-Thiodianiline (CAS-No.: ) 16. O-Toluidine (CAS-No.: ) 17. 2,4-Diamino toluene (CAS-No.: ) 18. 2,4,5-Trimethyl aniline (CAS-No.: ) 19. O-amino azo toluene (CAS-No.: ) amino-4-nitrotoluene (CAS No.: ) 21. P-amino azo benzene methoxy aniline Page 12 of 16

14 ANNEXURE II LIST OF 112 BANNED DYES The Ministry of Environment and Forests has prohibited the handling of (42+70) 112 dyes, which are capable of releasing any of the harmful amines. LIST OF 42 BENZIDINE BASED DYES PROHIBITED FROM 1993 S.No. CI Generic Name CI Constn. No. 1. Acid Orange Acid Red Acid Black Acid Black Azoic Diazo Compo Direct Yellow Direct Yellow Direct Orange Direct Orange Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Violet Direct Violet Direct Violet Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Green Direct Green Direct Green Direct Green 8:1 -- Page 13 of 16

15 26. Direct Brown Direct Brown 1: Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Brown Direct Black Direct Black Direct Black LIST OF 70 AZO DYES PROHIBITED FROM JUNE 1997 S.No. CI Generic Name CI Constn. No. 1 Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Acid Red Page 14 of 16

16 S.No. CI Generic Name CI Constn. No. 16 Acid Red Acid Violet Acid Brown Acid Black Acid Black Acid Black Basic Red Basic Red Basic Brown Developer 14 = Oxidation Base Direct Yellow Direct Orange Direct Orange Direct Orange Direct Orange Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Red Direct Violet Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Page 15 of 16

17 S.No. CI Generic Name CI Constn. No. 54 Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Blue Direct Green Direct Blue Direct Black Direct Black Disperse Yellow Disperse Yellow Disperse Yellow Disperse Orange Disperse Red Page 16 of 16