ULTIMATE CHILE. 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate Chile. Endemics, Seabirds & The World s Most Spectacular Scenery

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1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate Chile ULTIMATE CHILE Endemics, Seabirds & The World s Most Spectacular Scenery Main Tour Duration: 11 days Northern Chile Pre-Tour Extension: 6 days Southern Chile Post-Tour Extension: 6 days Chile is surely unique amongst the countries of the world! Some 2700 miles (4300km) long, yet never more than 220 miles (350km) wide, this remarkable land snakes southwards down the spine of South America. Dominated throughout by the mighty Andes, Chile is home to many of the highest mountains in South America: a land of endless icy peaks that stand sentinel over vast glaciers and icefields. Chile is also a land of breathtaking variety, with many other habitats such as the Atacama desert (punctuated by stripshaped oases along the rivers debouching from the Andes), puna grasslands and Patagonian steppes, primeval Araucaria and Nothofagus beech forests, isolated volcanoes of almost perfect symmetry that send out plumes of white steam into the blue heavens, and, of course, the long, deeply indented coastline with its surf-swept headlands battered by the cold waters of the Humboldt Current. Chilean scenery is acknowledged to be amongst the finest in the world Diademed Sandpiper-Plover (Nik Borrow) and indeed, once one has experienced its awesome magnificence, it is hard to imagine that it could be surpassed. Throughout the length of the country are some of South America s most beautiful and well managed national parks protecting a diversity of habitats and wildlife. We shall visit several of these during the course of our stay as we seek out the many exciting endemics and restricted-range specialities, including numerous birds belonging to monotypic genera, an outstanding selection of seabirds, and puna and Nothofagus forest specialities, in this fascinating part of our world. The Birdquest tour to Chile is the most comprehensive Chile birding tour available, producing more specialities than any other, partly owing to the fact there are no fewer than 3 pelagics on offer. It is also the most flexible of any Chile tour, with extension options to both the far north and the far south of the country. It is the central part of Chile which offers by far the greatest number of endemics and other specialities, wonderful as the north and south of the country are. Not only is Chile a wonderful place for experiencing nature but also a modern, well developed country which makes exploring a pleasure. From the smallest town to the capital Santiago, everything is clean, safe and attractive, and well connected by good roads and a fine internal airline network, and this is not even to mention the good food and wine! This modernization has not resulted in any loss of character, however, as we shall find out when we encounter Chile s bustling ports, small fishing villages and atmospheric Andean towns and villages. From Santiago, where we start our travels, we will head first for the nearby Pacific coast where we will see spectacular concentrations of seabirds, including several Humboldt Current endemics. Great birds here include Humboldt Penguin, Peruvian Diving-Petrel, Peruvian Pelican, Peruvian Booby, Guanay and Red-legged Cormorants, Salvin s and Buller s Albatrosses, Westland and Masatierra (or Defilippe s) Petrels, and Inca Tern. Coastal wetlands hold Black-necked Swan, Lake Duck, Red Shoveler, Southern Wigeon, Red-gartered and Red-fronted Coots, and with luck the parasitic Black-headed Duck and the restricted-range Ticking Doradito, while the rocky coastline is home to the endemic Chilean Seaside Cinclodes. Before returning to the Santiago region, we visit the coastal mountain range where we will encounter a series of Chilean landbird specialities, including such marvellouslynamed endemics as Crag Chilia and Moustached Turca, as well as Dusky-tailed Canastero and Dusky and White-throated Tapaculos. Restricted-range species include Thorn-tailed Rayadito, Fire-eyed Diucon, Austral Thrush, Chilean Mockingbird, Chilean Swallow and Blackchinned Siskin. Next we shall explore the rugged central Andes of Chile, with special emphasis placed on finding the rare and enigmatic Diademed Sandpiper-Plover, as well as White-sided Hillstar, Rufousbanded Miner, Austral Negrito, White-browed, Ochre-naped and Black-fronted Ground- Tyrants, Grey-hooded Sierra- Finch, Greater Yellow-Finch and, with luck, Great Shrike- Tyrant.

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate Chile fortune, the rare Austral Rail and the uncommon Yellowbridled and White-bridled Finches. birds of this fantastic area. Birdquest has operated tours to Chile since We then head further south to the cool temperate southern beech (Nothofagus) forest region of south-central Chile, home to over 20 species endemic to the Southern Cone of South America (and some restricted purely to Chile). Some of the most sought-after of these include the splendid Magellanic Woodpecker (South America s largest woodpecker), the endemic Slender-billed Parakeet, the large, skulking Chestnutthroated Huet-huet (Chile s least known tapaculo), the equally impressive Blackthroated Huet-huet and the curious Des Murs s Wiretail (a tiny and enigmatic bird with just six elongated narrow tail feathers). Others include Chilean Tinamou, Spectacled Duck, Chilean Hawk, the rare Rufous-tailed Hawk, Chilean Pigeon, Burrowing Parrot, Austral Parakeet, Rufouslegged Owl, Austral Pygmy- Owl, Striped Woodpecker, Chilean Flicker, Patagonian Forest Earthcreeper, Darkbellied Cinclodes, Whitethroated Treerunner, Chucao and Magellanic Tapaculos, and Patagonian Sierra-Finch. Continuing still further south, we come to the northern end of the beautiful Chilean Fjords Buller s Albatrosses (Nik Borrow) at Puerto Montt and the windswept Isla de Chiloé, haunt of the recently-described Pincoya Storm-Petrel, the as-yetundescribed endemic Chiloe Steamer-Duck. During the optional post-tour extension we will explore the far south of the country, including the windswept Patagonian steppes around Punta Arenas, spectacular Torres del Paine National Park, the veritable Land of the Condor (where superlatives fail to describe the stalagmitelike granite massifs, the thundering waterfalls and huge glaciers), and finally remote and dramatic Tierra del Fuego. On the Patagonian steppes and coastline, and in Torres del Paine, we will be looking for such great birds as Andean Condor (positively common here!), Magellanic Penguin, handsome Upland and Ashy-throated Geese, Coscoroba Swan, Tawnythroated and Rufous-chested Dotterels, Least Seedsnipe, Short-billed Miner, Austral Canastero, Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant, Chocolatevented Tyrant, Patagonian Mockingbird, Patagonian Yellow-Finch and, with good Finally, on Tierra del Fuego, we will be seeking out the strange Magellanic Plover (the sole representative of its family), as well as the striking King Penguin, the endangered Ruddy-headed Goose, Flying and Flightless (or Fuegian) Steamer-Ducks, Two-banded Plover, Dolphin Gull, Magellanic Horned Owl and, with luck, Kelp Goose and Snowy Sheathbill. Before the main tour gets underway, there will be an optional pre-tour extension to the far north of this long, long sliver of a country. First we will visit the port of Iquique, where a pelagic should turn up Juan Fernandez s Petrel and both Elliot s and Markham s Storm-Petrels, with a real possibility of rarer species such as Hornby s Storm-Petrel. Inland, we should find the localized Tamarugo Conebill. After travelling still further north, close to the Peruvian border, we will be birding in the Atacama desert near Arica and in the oasis-like valleys of the Lluta and Azapa Rivers. Specialities of the area include Peruvian Thickknee, Oasis Hummingbird, Peruvian Sheartail, the tiny, endangered Chilean Woodstar, Pied-crested Tit- Tyrant and Slender-billed Finch. From here we climb again into the Andes until we reach the bird-rich puna grasslands and lakes of Lauca National Park where the snow-capped Payachatas volcanoes form a formidable backdrop. Here we will concentrate on high Andean and puna birding, encountering Puna Rhea, Puna Tinamou, Puna Flamingo, Giant Coot, Andean Avocet and hopefully Ornate Tinamou and Rufousbellied Seedsnipe, to mention but a few of the spectacular Itinerary Day 1 The tour starts this morning at Santiago airport, from where we shall drive to Quintero on the Pacific coast near Valparaiso for an overnight stay, stopping en route at a large, sedge-lined lake in the quiet El Peral reserve. Here we shall find a good selection of waterbirds, likely including Great, Piedbilled and White-tufted Grebes, Black-crowned Night Heron, Great and Snowy Egrets, Black-necked Swan, Lake Duck, Yellowbilled Pintail, Red Shoveler, Chiloé (or Southern) Wigeon, Plumbeous Rail, Red-gartered, Red-fronted and Whitewinged Coots, and quite possibly Cinnamon Teal and Spot-flanked Gallinule. We will also be looking for the localized and uncommon Black-headed Duck, the worlds only exclusively parasitic duck species. The extensive sedge beds hold Wren-like Rushbird and the smart Many-colored Rush- Tyrant, and with luck we will see Stripe-backed Bittern. Either here or at another location we have a fair chance of finding the uncommon but recently-split Ticking Doradito (restricted to central Chile and west-central Argentina). Later, we will explore estuaries, bays and rocky stretches of coastline where we should encounter the endemic Chilean Seaside Cinclodes and some South American Sealions, along with shorebirds such as American and Blackish Oystercatchers, White-backed Stilt, South American Snipe, Hudsonian Whimbrel, Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull and Black Skimmer. Other species that are likely today include Western Cattle Egret, Chimango Caracara, Southern Lapwing, Picui Ground-Dove, Eared Dove,

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate Chile Spectacled Tyrant, House Wren, Grassland Yellow-Finch, Yellow-winged Blackbird and Long-tailed Meadowlark. Day 2 Today we shall take a boat trip out of Quintero into the bird-rich waters of the Humboldt Current. This cold water Antarctic current, which surfaces off the Chilean coast, is rich in nutrients and supports large fish and squid populations. Attracted to these are great numbers of seabirds, some endemic to these waters, some wanderers from further afield. Amongst the Humboldt endemics and more widespread residents, we should encounter Humboldt Penguin, Peruvian Diving-Petrel, Guanay and Red-legged Cormorants, Kelp Gull and South American Tern. With growing excitement we shall scan amongst the hordes of Sooty and Pinkfooted Shearwaters for some of the more regular pelagic visitors, which include Blackbrowed, Salvin s, Buller s and Northern Royal Albatrosses, Southern and perhaps Northern Giant-Petrels, Masatierra (or Defilippe s), Westland and White-chinned Petrels, Wilson s Storm-Petrel and Chilean Skua. With a bit of luck we will come across several of the scarcer pelagic species, which include Southern Royal, Chatham and Grey-headed Albatrosses, Moustached Turca (Nik Borrow) Juan Fernández Petrel, Buller s Shearwater, Red-necked and Red Phalaropes, and Sabine s Gull. If we are lucky, we will also encounter one or more species of cetacean, with possibilities including Great Sperm Whale and Dusky Dolphin. In the late afternoon we will drive a short distance into the coastal cordillera. We will stay overnight at the pleasant colonial town of Olmue near the entrance to La Campana National Park. Day 3 The morning will be spent birding La Campana National Park, so named because of the bell-shaped mountain which dominates the park. This impressive park contains some of the northernmost Nothofagus (Southern Beech) forest and also thorny scrub and cacti, resembling the chaparral country of California. We will take advantage of the considerable bird activity at first light to search for two secretive endemic tapaculos. With some judicial use of a tape recorder we should lure into view the large Whitethroated Tapaculo, whose loud, whooping song often reveals its presence. We will also endeavour to find the diminutive Dusky Tapaculo, a species restricted just to this mountain range. Other major target species include the impressive Moustached Turca (a large tapaculo endemic to central Chile) and Crag Chilia (a sleek rock-loving furnariid of outcrops and escarpments), although there will be further opportunities to see both of these. The endemic Duskytailed Canastero gives itself away by its trilling song, while other specialities we should encounter today include the inquisitive Thorn-tailed Rayadito, White-crested Elaenia (of the southern form chilensis), Fire-eyed Diucon, Austral Thrush, Chilean Mockingbird (a fairly widespread endemic), Chilean Swallow, Common Diuca- Finch, Austral Blackbird and Black-chinned Siskin. More widespread birds in this area include Plain-mantled Tit- Spinetail, Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Blue-and-white Swallow, while the California Quails here are introduced. When we finally tear ourselves away from the forest, we will drive back to the Santiago region for a two nights stay, stopping en-route at some sedge-lined pools to search for the impressive South American Painted-Snipe and have a second chance for Stripe-backed Bittern. We are also likely to see Harris s Hawk, Chimango Caracara and Sedge (or Grass) Wren and Correndera Pipit. Day 4 The Santiago region is dominated by the magnificent Andes and on clear days there are inspiring views from every part of the region. Rising from the vineyards and farms of the central valley and soaring to 22,834ft (6960m) at the summit of Aconcagua (the highest mountain in the Americas), they are as accessible here as anywhere on the continent. Winding mountain roads with hairpin bends lead from one breathtaking view to another. Today s birding is strictly Andean, although there will be no need to ascend higher than about 8200ft (2500m). We will be covering a variety of montane habitats including bushy valleys, jagged rocky outcrops, scree slopes and boggy grasslands where we should encounter the remarkable Diademed Sandpiper-Plover (one of the world s most attractive, yet least known, waders), Gray-breasted Seedsnipe, White-sided Hillstar, Rufousbanded Miner (the local form is a candidate for a split), Grey-flanked Cinclodes, Sharp-billed Canastero, Austral Negrito, good numbers of ground-tyrants including White-browed, Ochre-naped and Cinereous Ground-Tyrants, the localized Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant, Gray-hooded, Mourning and Band-tailed Sierra-Finches, the local Greater Yellow- Finch and Yellow-rumped Siskin. With luck we will also find Mountain Parakeet and Great Shrike-Tyrant. Andean Condors often soar overhead and we will keep a close eye on sections of rushing meltwater rivers for Torrent Duck. Day 5 This morning we will drive southwards to Vilches, in the Talca region, for an overnight stay, stopping en route to look for the secretive and endemic Chilean Tinamou. In the afternoon we will explore the extensive Nothofagus forest in the Andean foothills, which here reaches its northern limits. In particular we will be listening for the nasal scolding and squeaky toy voice of Chile s least known tapaculo, the Chestnut-throated Huet-huet. Until recently this species was sometimes lumped with its close relative the Blackthroated Huet-Huet, but DNA and vocalization studies have now shown that these are indeed separate species. This large skulker favours bamboo undergrowth in shady forest where it scrapes the forest floor with its outsized tarsus. With patience and some careful manoeuvring we should have a good chance of seeing it. We will

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate Chile Magellanic Woodpeckers (Nik Borrow) also be looking for Rufoustailed Plantcutter (a large and showy cotinga-like bird of uncertain affinities) and more Nothofagus forest endemics such as Austral Parakeet (the worlds most southerly parrot species), the plump Chucao Tapaculo with its explosive voice, Magellanic Tapaculo, Striped Woodpecker, Chilean Flicker, Dark-bellied Cinclodes, the tree hugging, chisel-billed White-throated Treerunner and Patagonian Sierra-Finch. After dusk we will look for the striking Rufous-legged Owl (now a Patagonian endemic following the splitting off of Chaco Owl). Day 6 After some final birding in the Vilches/Talca area, during which we will concentrate on seeking out the rare Spectacled Duck and the local race of the impressive Burrowing Parrot, we will head southwards to Termas de Chillán for an overnight stay. Termas de Chillán is a small ski resort town in the Andes and our main target here is the restricted-range Patagonian Forest Earthcreeper, which has been split from Scale-throated and is restricted to part of the Chilean and Argentine Andes. We will also have a first opportunity to look for the much sought-after Magellanic Woodpecker (South America s largest woodpecker) and many of the birds listed for the Temuco region. We also have another opportunity to find Great Shrike-Tyrant in this area. Day 7 We will spend some time around Termas de Chillán this morning and then continue southwards to Temuco for a two nights stay, perhaps arriving in time for some birding this afternoon Day 8 The region surrounding Temuco is dominated by the maximum diversity of Nothofagus species and is known as the Valdivian forest (the wettest evergreen sector of the Nothofagus belt). Under the canopy, a dense undergrowth of Chusquea bamboo conceals some exciting but secretive tapaculos. One of the most spectacular is the huge Blackthroated Huet-huet, 10 inches (26 centimetres) of black and chestnut plumes, which has a scolding, onomatopoeic call and a bird which positively vibrates as it broadcasts its deeply resonant song. We will also be searching for the bamboo-dwelling Ochre-flanked Tapaculo, yet another monotypic genus and endemic to the Nothofagus forest. Having played hide-and-seek with these enigmatic birds we will spend the rest of our time exploring this atmospheric habitat. We aim to find some outstanding species, including such specialities such as Chilean Hawk, Chilean Pigeon, Austral Pygmy-Owl, Green-backed Firecrown, the tiny restless Des Murs s Wiretail and the poorlyknown Patagonian Tyrant. This is a good area for the endemic Slender-billed Parakeet. This localized species has a specially adapted long maxilla for extracting Araucaria (monkey puzzle) seeds when in season, but it spends the rest of the year amongst crops and orchards. If we are really lucky we will come across the rare Rufous-tailed Hawk. Day 9 After spending the morning in the Temuco region we will head southwards to Puerto Montt for a two nights stay. As we travel through the beautiful Chilean lake district we will enjoy (providing it is a clear day) the spectacular views of Volcan Osorno, one of the most perfect cones and most photographed volcanoes in the Southern Cone of South America. Flocks of Blackfaced Ibises, with their farcarrying trumpeting calls, are still a familiar sight amidst the pleasant countryside, where the pace of life is refreshingly slow. Day 10 Puerto Montt is a thriving port with Chile s largest salmon farms forming the mainstay of the local economy. The picturesque Isla de Chiloé, which we will visit today, lies just a short distance away and the ferry crossings should provide good opportunities to observe Magellanic Diving-Petrel, Imperial and Rock Cormorants, Snowycrowned (or Trudeau s) Tern and probably some pelagic visitors, perhaps including one or two species we have missed previously. During our visit to this beautiful island we will encounter Chiloe Steamer- Duck, an as-yet-undescribed endemic species, and Magellanic Oystercatcher, a Patagonian endemic. We will also have another chance for the handsome Slender-billed Parakeet while on Chiloé, and likewise for the rare Rufoustailed Hawk. We will also visit a colony of both Magellanic and Humboldt Penguins. Day 11 This morning we will make a boat trip out onto the waters of Seno Reloncavi near Puerto Montt. Here we have a good chance of encountering the recently-described Pincoya Storm-Petrel, which is a cryptic species that was previously overlooked as Wilson s Storm-Petrel. It is still very poorly known, and its breeding grounds have not yet been discovered, but it is likely to be a species that breeds in the Chilean Fjords rather than on oceanic islands. It is quite likely a new Chilean endemic. The species has mostly been recorded between December and February, so is not very likely to be recorded on Chile tours outside this period, and while it can be seen occasionally (and usually briefly) from the ferry to Isla de Chiloé, with our private boat trip we have a much better opportunity for close and sustained views. The tour ends in the early afternoon at Puerto Montt airport. Southern Chile Post-Tour Extension Itinerary Day 11 We will take an afternoon flight from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas in southernmost Chile for an overnight stay. This spectacular flight follows the Andes southwards over uninhabited terrain marked by volcanoes, hundreds of iceencrusted peaks, glaciers and inaccessible lakes before the mountains give way to the flat steppes of Patagonia. Day 12 This morning we will take the direct, roughly twohours, ferry from Punta Arenas to Porvenir on the island of Tierra del Fuego, where we will stay overnight. This is a place that Charles Darwin described in The Voyage of the Beagle as a scene of savage magnificence. It was named by Magellan after the fires the

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate Chile local Amerindians lit to warn others of his arrival. Once again the number of tubenoses will testify to the richness of Chilean waters. Black-browed Albatrosses and Southern (or Common) Giant-Petrels are common, and we will have another chance for good looks at Magellanic Diving-petrels and Chilean Skuas. Sometimes Cape Petrels and Southern Fulmars can be seen, or even Peale s Dolphins. Porvenir is a small town where Croatian settlers were attracted by a gold rush in At the top of the agenda in Tierra del Fuego will be the strange and highly sought-after Magellanic Plover, such an oddball that it has been placed in its own family and indeed may not even be a shorebird at all. Although inconspicuous, it can be remarkably tame. Additional target birds will include Flightless (or Fuegian) and Flying Steamer-Ducks, Two-banded Plover, Whiterumped Sandpiper and the handsome Dolphin Gull. We will also dedicate some time to tracking down the threatened Ruddy-headed Goose, now down to just 300 pairs in South America proper (and almost extinct on the mainland), although still thriving in the Falklands. Kelp Goose and Snowy (or Paleheaded) Sheathbill are both possible but not very likely. Magellanic Plover (Nik Borrow) This evening we will search for Magellanic Horned Owl (split from Great Horned). We will also visit Bahía Inútil (Useless Bay) in order to enjoy the recently-established colony of King Penguins that now makes this area their home. Of all the penguins, Kings are probably the most impressive. Day 13 We will head off early for the northern coast of Tierra del Fuego this morning and make the short ferry crossing to the mainland. The ferry is often accompanied by Commerson s Dolphins, a stunning black-and-white species endemic to Patagonia and the Falklands. Once ashore, we shall make for Torres del Paine National Park for a two nights stay. We will explore some wild Patagonian back roads today. High on our list of targets will be such glorious specialities as Tawny-vented and Rufous-chested Dotterels, Scale-throated Earthcreeper, Chocolate-vented Tyrant and, with luck, the uncommon White-bridled (or Blackthroated) Finch. In addition, both Common and Shortbilled Miners should be encountered. Day 14 Exploring the worldfamous Torres del Paine National Park is a wonderful experience. Thrusting abruptly over 6600ft (2000m) out of the Patagonian Plain, the Torres del Paine are perhaps South America s most dramatic mountain landscape. Surrounded by glaciers and stunted forests, these granite towers (torres being Spanish for towers, though the origin of Paine is still debated) dominate the majestic scenery of the region. Meltwater from the glaciers plunges over vertical cliffs, forming rushing rivers which feed a multitude of azure lakes surrounded by meadows full of foxgloves and daisies. From every angle the awesome spires offer a different yet equally dramatic aspect and we shall surely have difficulty deciding when to call a halt to the scenic photography! Guanacos, a wild relative of the Llama, are a common sight and Argentine Grey Foxes are regularly seen. We even have a fair chance of encountering a Puma (or Mountain Lion). As their habits are starting to become better known to those who track them and they have also become less fearful of humans. This is Andean Condor country par excellence and one of the few places where these spectacular birds remain truly common. Often to be found on the ground in the early morning, when the updraughts start we shall likely see them in all their splendour as they unfurl their mighty wings, take to the air and rapidly gain height above our heads. Other interesting birds we shall look for both inside and outside the park include Lesser Rhea, Silvery Grebe, Coscoroba Swan, elegant Upland and Ashy-headed Geese, Cinereous Harrier, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Southern Crested-Caracara, White-throated Caracara, Peregrine, Wilson s Phalarope, Least Seedsnipe, Austral Canastero, Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant, Patagonian Mockingbird, Patagonian Yellow-Finch and the scarce Yellow-bridled Finch. We have another good opportunity here to locate the impressive Magellanic Woodpecker, which occurs at a low density in these southern forests, and if we are in luck we will also encounter the uncommon Spectacled Duck. We first found the rare and poorlyknown Austral Rail in the park in 2010, and we shall certainly make an effort to see this most elusive speciality. Day 15 After a final day enjoying the magnificent Patagonian wilderness we will return to Punta Arenas for an overnight stay. Day 16 extension ends this morning at Punta Arenas. Northern Chile Pre-Tour Extension Itinerary Day 1 The extension begins this morning at Santiago airport, from where we will catch a flight northwards to the coastal city of Iquique for an overnight stay. This afternoon we will have the chance to visit some Tamarugo (Prosopis tamarugo) woodlands inland in search of the poorly-known Tamarugo Conebill, a species found only in northernmost Chile and southern Peru. We should also come across Cream-winged (or Puna) Cinclodes, split from Bar-winged, as well as Turkey Vulture and Rufous-collared Sparrow Day 2 The continental shelf lies not far offshore at Iquique, and today we will take a boat trip offshore in search of pelagic seabirds. As we are around 1150 miles (1850km) north of the Valparaiso area, we can expect a rather different combination of species and numbers. Star attractions here are Elliot s and Markhams s Storm- Petrels, while there is also a low chance of White-bellied and Hornby s Storm-Petrels, as well as a better chance of

6 6 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate Chile Juan Fernández Petrel than further south, given that the latter species tends to feed in warmer waters. We should also encounter Humboldt Penguin, Black-browed and Buller s Albatrosses, Southern Giant-Petrel, White-chinned Petrel, Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters, Wilson s Storm- Petrel, Peruvian Diving-Petrel, Peruvian Pelican, Peruvian Booby, Neotropic, Red-legged and Guanay Cormorants, Chilean Skua, Grey, Belcher s (or Band-tailed) and Franklin s Gulls, the stunning Inca Tern and Elegant Tern. All in all this is going to be a fantastic experience. Along the coast we should encounter Ruddy Turnstone, Surfbird and Sanderling. Afterwards we will drive northwards along the PanAmerican Highway to Arica for an overnight stay. Day 3 A bustling port and frontier town, Arica stands on the coast only a few miles from the Peruvian border. In what used to be Peruvian territory until the War of the Pacific, this is land-locked Bolivia s gateway to the world with just a single train travelling daily to La Paz. Here, in the Atacama desert, one of the driest regions on earth, flow several rivers the most well known being the Lluta and the Azapa. Although only small rivers carrying melt-water down Andean Condor (Nik Borrow) from the Andes, their wellcultivated flood plains form a rich oasis in this harsh environment. Our most important target species will be the spectacular, restrictedrange Pied-crested Tit-Tyrant and a trio of restricted-range hummingbirds; the sturdy Oasis Hummingbird, the entertaining, tail-wagging Peruvian Sheartail and the diminutive Chilean Woodstar (one of Chile s rarest and most threatened birds, whose world population is now believed to number no more than 200). We should also encounter Black Vulture, American Kestrel, the impressive Peruvian Thick-knee, West Peruvian (or Pacific) Dove (split from White-winged), Croaking Ground-Dove, Groove-billed Ani, Burrowing Owl, Andean Swift, Whitecrested Elaenia (the form here is sometimes split as Peruvian Elaenia), Vermilion Flycatcher, the local race of Bran-colored Flycatcher (a strong candidate for a future split), Barn Swallow, Cinereous Conebill, Chestnut-throated Seedeater, Blue-black Grassquit, Slenderbilled Finch, Shiny Cowbird and Peruvian Meadowlark. Later we shall drive out of the Lluta Valley, climbing through the desert foothills into the relatively verdant high Andes. The first vegetation we encounter are striking stands of candelabra cacti which gradually give way to incredibly silent, nitrate-rich deserts and stony, scrubfilled gullies. We will be making a couple of stops en route, primarily for Grayish Miner and Straight-billed Earthcreeper, before reaching Putre, our base for the next two nights and gateway to Lauca National Park. Day 4 Waking up in the sleepy Andean town of Putre at 11,500ft (3500m), where Aymara Indian town folk go about their daily business, we walk the cobbled streets through a maze of whitewashed buildings and thatched roofs to a deep shrub-filled gulley. Here we hope to feast our eyes on a good variety of Andean slope birds, including Variable Hawk, Bare-faced and Blackwinged Ground-Dove, Andean Hillstar, Giant Hummingbird, White-throated and Plainbreasted Earthcreepers, Whitewinged Cinclodes, Streaked Tit-Spinetail, Dark-winged and Canyon Canasteros, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, White-browed Chat-Tyrant, Chiguanco Thrush, Blackthroated Flowerpiercer, Blueand-yellow Tanager, Goldenbilled Saltator, Black-hooded and Ash-breasted Sierra- Finches, Greenish Yellow- Finch, Band-tailed Seedeater, Hooded Siskin and perhaps Spot-winged Pigeon. We will also search for Peruvian Pygmy-Owl, a species which was described as new to science as recently as 1991, although it is generally hard to find. Because of the altitudes involved we will only make our first visit to Lauca in the afternoon of the first day in order to allow time for acclimatization and the afternoon s birding will see us reach a maximum altitude of 14,100ft (4300m). Lauca National Park is a place of outstanding natural beauty. The towering snow-capped volcanoes of Pomerape and Parinacota soar to over 20,700ft (6300m) and reflect perfectly in the deep blue waters of Chungara and Cotocotani Lakes. A relatively short drive from Putre sees a rapid change of scenery as we penetrate above 13,100ft (4000m) and we find ourselves in another surreal world, the altiplano, which extends through parts of Chile and Argentina and much of Bolivia and Peru. This harsh landscape of puna tussock grasslands, desert and shrubby steppe, dotted with numerous small lakes, pools and cushion-plant bogs, is home to a large number of high Andean specialities including Puna Rhea (which is sometimes split from Lesser), Puna Tinamou, Silvery Grebe of the high Andean race juninensis (which is a potential split), Puna Ibis, Andean Goose, Puna Teal, Giant Coot (which can be seen tending their enormous nest mounds), Mountain Caracara, Andean Lapwing, Puna Plover, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, Andean Avocet, Andean Gull, Andean Flicker, Puna Miner, Cordilleran Canastero, Puna, Whitefronted and Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrants, Andean Negrito, the impressive Whitewinged Diuca-Finch and White-throated Sierra-Finch. Diademed Sandpiper-Plover also occurs here, and we will have a fair chance of observing this outstanding wader. When water levels are right all three flamingo species (Chilean, Andean and the rare Puna or James s) can be found in large numbers, although in some years their numbers diminish when changing feeding conditions force many of them to move elsewhere. Amongst the many more widespread birds we may well see here are Crested and Torrent Ducks, Speckled Teal, Aplomado Falcon, Greater Yellowlegs, Baird s Sandpiper, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, Andean Swallow, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Black and

7 7 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate Chile Yellow-rumped Siskins, and perhaps Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch. Southern (or Mountain) Viscacha (a giant chinchilla) and large numbers of grazing Vicuña are a common sight and we should encounter Guanaco at lower altitudes, while there is even a possibility of seeing the threatened Peruvian Huemul (or Taruca), a rare deer of the pre-puna slopes. find D Orbigny s Chat-Tyrant and where we will hope to encounter the uncommon Giant Conebill and Thickbilled Siskin, two Polylepis specialists.) Eventually we must return to Arica for an overnight stay. Day 6 An early morning flight from Arica will take us back to Santiago airport where we will meet up with those arriving for the main tour. (This is Day 1 of the main tour.) a necessarily expensive but wonderful feature of our unique tour. Juan Fernández Option: We can arrange for you to visit this remote archipelago, some 420 miles (670km) off the Chilean coast, in search of Juan Fernández Firecrown and the jaunty Juan Fernández Tit-Tyrant, species that very few birders have ever seen. Please contact us for further information. after the tour, we can easily make the arrangements for them. Please contact us for further information. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels are mostly of good standard, occasionally medium standard. The guesthouse at Porvenir, where we spend one night, is a simple, family-run establishment. Road transport is by small coach or minibus and roads are good. Day 5 Our second day s birding in the park will begin with a dawn search for Ornate Tinamou. We will then be heading for South America s highest lake, Lago Chungara at 14,800ft (4500m), where we expect to see good numbers of Andean Coots and Andean Ducks. Much of the birding will be a continuation of the previous day, with many good birds to look at. If we are extremely lucky we will come across Puna Snipe or White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant. (If we have done exceptionally well in the park we may be able to visit a remote Polylepis woodland where we should Important: The Birdquest tour features no fewer than three pelagics. Not just the usual one off central Chile at Quintero/Valparaiso, but also one off Iquique (a better venue than Arica) in northern Chile for some different seabird specialities, and one near Puerto Montt that offers a high chance of observing the recently-described Pincoya Storm-Petrel. We also include four ferry trips (two between the mainland and Isla de Chiloé and two more between the mainland and Tierra del Fuego) that are good for seabirds. These seven boat trips add up to Easter Island Option: There can be few people who are unaware of the extraordinary stone statues of Easter Island, or Rapa Nui as it is known to its Polynesian inhabitants, one of the archaeological wonders of the world. Easter Island is governed by Chile and Santiago is the nearest airport, although the island lies some 2375 miles (3800 km) from the mainland! The endemic avifauna was wiped out centuries ago when the inhabitants cut down all the forest, but a visit is still a fascinating experience. If any participants would like to visit Easter Island, either before or Walking: The walking effort is easy to moderate. Climate: In central and northern Chile, temperatures range from warm or fairly hot at lower altitudes, to cool and fairly cold at night and early in the morning at high altitude. Dry and sunny weather is the rule at this season. In southern Chile, temperatures are typically cool or quite cold, and it is frequently rainy (it can even snow occasionally in the far south). Bird Photography: Opportunities are good.