Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Vietnam. Northern Vietnam p99. Hanoi. p58. Central Vietnam p146. #^ Mekong Delta p354

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Vietnam Northern Vietnam p99 Hanoi #_ p58 Central Vietnam p146 Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor (Cambodia) p401 #^ Mekong Delta p354 Southwest Highlands p282 Southeast Coast p221 #^ Ho Chi Minh City p306 Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Austin Bush, David Eimer, Nick Ray, Phillip Tang

2 PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD HUYTHOAI/GETTY IMAGES MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET Welcome to Vietnam Vietnam Map Vietnam s Top Need to Know First Time Vietnam What s New If You Like Month by Month Itineraries Outdoor Activities Eat & Drink Like a Local Regions at a Glance HA GIANG PROVINCE P141 DRAGON FRUIT P260 HANOI Around Hanoi Tam Dao Hill Station NORTHERN VIETNAM...99 Northeast Vietnam Ba Be National Park Haiphong Halong Bay Bai Tu Long Bay Mong Cai & the Chinese Border Northwest Vietnam Hoa Binh Mai Chau Son La Dien Bien Phu Muong Te & Na Hu Sinho Sapa Lao Cai Bac Ha Ha Giang Province CENTRAL VIETNAM North-Central Vietnam Ninh Binh Province Vinh Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Dong Hoi South-Central Vietnam Demilitarised Zone Dong Ha Hue Around Hue Bach Ma National Park Lang Co Beach Danang Around Danang Hoi An Around Hoi An My Son SOUTHEAST COAST Quang Ngai Cha Ban Cham Area Quy Nhon Bai Xep Tuy Hoa Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang Nha Trang Around Nha Trang Phan Rang & Thap Cham Ninh Chu Beach Ca Na Mui Ne Phan Thiet & Around Ho Coc Beach Ho Tram Beach Vung Tau Con Dao Islands SOUTHWEST HIGHLANDS Cat Tien National Park Dalat & Around Lak Lake Buon Ma Thuot Yok Don National Park Pleiku Kon Tum

3 Contents UNDERSTAND KHANG DUONG/500PX HO CHI MINH CITY Around Ho Chi Minh City Cu Chi Tay Ninh Can Gio MEKONG DELTA My Tho Ben Tre Tra Vinh Vinh Long Can Tho & Around Soc Trang Ca Mau Rach Gia Phu Quoc Island Ha Tien Around Ha Tien Hon Chong Chau Doc Sam Mountain Long Xuyen Cao Lanh Around Cao Lanh Sa Dec SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR Siem Reap Temples of Angkor Vietnam Today History People & Culture Arts & Architecture Environment SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A Z Transport Health Language Index Map Legend DALAT P285 SPECIAL FEATURES Vietnam Outdoors Eat & Drink Like a Local Hue Imperial Enclosure in 3D Angkor Wat in 3D Scenes of Vietnam

4 28 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Plan Your Trip Itineraries PHUONG D. NGUYEN/SHUTTERSTOCK CAMBODIA Cat Tien National Park # Dalat # Chau Doc Ho Chi Minh City Mui Ne Phu Quoc Island Can Tho Ben Tre Tra Vinh S O U T H C H I N A S E A ( E A S T S E A ) 2 WEEKS Deep South This itinerary takes in a lovely offshore island blessed with wonderful sandy bays, the nation s main watersport centre and some fascinating floating villages. If tropical sunsets and whitesand beaches are high on your agenda it s probably best not to plan this trip during the southern rainy season (roughly May to October). There s frequent public transport to virtually all the main places. After a couple of days enjoying the urban delights and compelling energy of HCMC, head into the Mekong Delta, stopping at Ben Tre to explore canalside lanes by bike and islands by boat. Then hop on-board a cargo ship for a slow, scenic journey to Tra Vinh and take in the town s colourful pagodas. Next it s a short trip to Can Tho where it s worth lingering a couple of days to visit the bustling floating markets, the city museum and a temple or two. Then head to Phu Quoc Island for three days of well-earned beach time on some of Vietnam s best sandy shores and seafood feasts at night.

5 29 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Cai Rang Floating Market, (p365) Can Tho From Phu Quoc, fly (or bus it) back to HCMC, then head north into the southcentral highlands via a night in Cat Tien National Park, home to gibbons, crocodiles and bountiful bird life. Next up it s the romantic hill station of Dalat for a tour of its quirky sights, and the opportunity to get stuck into some adventure sports such as canyoning, mountain biking or kayaking. The road trip from Dalat down to Mui Ne is one of the nation s finest, negotiating highland ridges and plunging through valleys and pine forests; it s ideally done on the back of a motorbike (consider hiring an Easy Rider). You can then rest up by the beach in Mui Ne for two or three days a tropical idyll with towering sand dunes and a laid-back vibe or for those with the stamina, get stuck into some crazy kitesurfing or a sailing course. Round the trip off in style with a night in HCMC, perhaps with a meal in Quan Bui followed by drinks somewhere atmospheric such as Heritage Republic, which is open around the clock.

6 30 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries MYANMAR (BURMA) HANOI #_ CHINA Halong Bay LAOS THAILAND Hue Danang Hoi An S O U T H C H I N A S E A ( E A S T S E A ) # CAMBODIA Ho Chi Minh City

7 31 KUSHCH DMITRY/SHUTTERSTOCK MARIAN GOCIEK/500PX 2 WEEKS From South to North This route covers the nation s essential cultural sights and is bookended by its two greatest cities. You ll have an opportunity for some beach time, too. Definitely consider taking internal flights (or overnight trains) to save time. The adventure begins in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City. Spend two to three days hitting the markets, browsing museums and eating some of Asia s best cuisine. Then it s a plane or train up to Danang to access the cultured charmer and culinary hot spot that is Hoi An. This town certainly warrants three or four days, such is its allure. Enjoy Hoi An s unique ambience, touring its temples and Old Town, and visit the nearby beach of An Bang. Then it s on to the old imperial capital of Hue for two to three nights to explore the citadel, pagodas and tombs (and nearby beaches, in season). Next it s a long journey by train (or a flight) to Hanoi to check out the capital s evocative Old Quarter, munch some street food and view the city s elegant architecture and cultural sights. From Hanoi book a tour to incomparable Halong Bay, which boasts more than 2000 limestone islands, before returning to Hanoi. PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Top: Central Post Office, Ho Chi Minh City (p312) Bottom: Halong Bay (p106)

8 32 3 WEEKS Northern Mountains Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself: a land of brooding mountains, overwhelming beauty and a mosaic of ethnic minorities. It s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels, with light traffic and breathtaking views, though, with a patient attitude, most of the region can be tackled by public transport. Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your first two nights; it s a perfect introduction to ethnic minority life. Northwest, where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical overnight stop is Son La, a sleepy town with a good spread of restaurants serving minority dishes. Continue on for two nights at Dien Bien Phu, a name that resonates with history as it was here that the French colonial story ended in defeat. Tour the military sights and impressive new museum then continue north through stunning scenery up the Tram Ton Pass. If you re looking to get off the beaten track, consider a one- or two-night detour to Muong Te, a predominately White Thai enclave in the country s northwesternmost corner. Sapa is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!), and an amazing array of minority peoples. Explore the area on two feet or two wheels for around four days before heading to Bac Ha for three nights to experience the best of the region s markets. Most colourful are the Flower Hmong people. From Bac Ha, move east to Ha Giang province, taking it slowly through stunning scenery and towns including Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac. Explore remote destinations such as the Lung Cu flag tower and the Vuong Palace from Dong Van. Onwards towards the vertiginous Mai Pi Leng Pass and Meo Vac, there s no public transport (so you ll need to hire a xe om or car). The route then loops down to the riverside junction town of Bao Lac. Local buses run from Bao Lac to Cao Bang and on to Ba Be National Park. Spend about three nights around Ba Be, staying at local Tay homestays, and exploring the park by trekking or kayaking. From Ba Be travel back to Cao Bang for the trip back south to Hanoi. JIMMY TRAN/SHUTTERSTOCK AKARAT PHASURA/SHUTTERSTOCK Top:Lung Cu flag tower (p143), Ha Giang Province Bottom: Bunker on A1 Hill (p127), Dien Bien Phu

9 CHINA Dong Van 33 Meo Vac CHINA Muong Te Bac Ha Sapa # Ba Be National Park Cao Bang VIETNAM Dien Bien Phu Son La #_ HANOI LAOS Mai Chau

10 34 PLAN YOUR TRIP OFF THE BEATEN TRACK R # R km Off the Beaten Track: Vietnam R #e miles SINHO Travel by motorbike to the remote mountain village of Sinho, or unravel the intricacies of public transport in northwestern Vietnam. (p130) M Y A N M A R SINHO #+ L A O S # Tay Trang #+ Sapa Lao Cai # Ha Giang Hoa Binh #+ C H I N A Nanning # Lang Son Yen #+ Bai Son La Mong Cai # Halong Zhanjiang HANOI # _ City #+ Na Meo DONG VAN Hai Duong Bai Tu Long Bay Halong Bay DONG VAN Use this sleepy Ha Giang town as a hub for trekking, visiting local markets and exploring remote attractions such as Lung Cu and the Vuong Palace. (p143) #+ Nam Can Thanh Hoa Gulf of Tonkin VIENTIANE # _ Cau Treo Cha Lo Thakhek #+ Cha Lo HANG EN # æ (SWALLOW CAVE) # Vinh Ha Tinh # Ù # æ Hainan Island (CHINA) Mekong HANG EN CAVE Dong Hoi River Visit this spectacular cave deep inside Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park on a park-ranger-led hiking and camping trip. (p155) Savannakhet #+ Huong Hoa (Khe Sanh Town) #] Hue Dong Ha PHU THUAN PHU THUAN Enjoy the magnificent oceanic coastline and lack of development at Phu Thuan, which has great places to stay. (p185) Paracel Islands

11 R T H A I L A N D # Pakse Danang # Hoi An # # æ # æ Cham Islands # _ Gulf of Thailand # Tonlé Sap HO QUOC PAGODA # C A M B O D I A # # _ # # # Pleiku # # Dalat # #+ #+ # # Phan Thiet XEO QUYT Ho Chi #+ # æ Vinh Minh City FOREST KE GA Tinh Xuong # # Vung Tau LIGHTHOUSE Bien Ben Tre Con Dao Islands # # # # # æ # SOUTH CHINA SEA (EAST SEA) # 35 BAI HUONG Take part in a homestay in this beautifully situated fishing village in the Cham Islands, just a short boat ride from the tourist mecca of Hoi An. (p217) BAI HUONG TAM HAI ISLAND TAM HAI ISLAND Enjoy the serenity in tiny Tam Hai, home to fine beaches, Cham ruins and a whale cemetery. (p228) Central Highlands BANGKOK XEO QUYT FOREST Hop on a boat through silent swamps and enjoy an almost primordial calm among the trees, one of the last natural forests of the region. (p399) HO QUOC PAGODA Evocatively located on a remote coast of Phu Quoc Island, the Ho Quoc Pagoda features a Quan Am statue and a giant bell, and makes a great sunrise spot. (p379) Battambang Duong Dong Siem Reap #Ú Takeo #+ Rach Gia Ca Mau PHNOM PENH Tay Ninh Tra Vinh Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Phan Rang - Thap Cham Quy Nhon GANH DA DIA Tuy Hoa GANH DA DIA Marvel at Ganh Da Dia's fascinating volcanic rock formations, located on a stunning slice of coastline with good beaches and swimming. (p231) KE GA LIGHTHOUSE Charter a fishing boat for the ride out to this imposing, 40m-high island lighthouse, which dates from the French-colonial era. (p261) PLAN YOUR TRIP OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

12 498 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alexander Edwards, Alison Westwood, Andrew Lee, Andy Osment, Anjeela Naran, Anthony Marx, Arratee Ayuttacorn, Chris den Engelsman, Chun-Yu Shih, Daisy Morgan, David Hagen, David Zaitegui, Debbie Jackson, Denis Arcand, Dustin Gerding, Eline Smet, Federico Pesce, Gitte Hansen, Gregory Kipling, Lucy Guiollot, Hanna van Zutphen, Hugo Macklin, Ilona Osterkamp-Weber, Jack Neilson, Jeen Zimmer, Jill Sculerati, Kai Dennis, Kara Chan, Karen Leonard, Kathy Boutos, Kato De Graeve, Laura Fox, Linda Byrnes, Maelle Planchenault, Manuela Arigoni, Marthe de Bruine, Melanie Scheuber, Nelly Kurz, Nissaf Sghaier, Noelia Iglesias, Pedro Marin Álvarez, Peter Holnback, Robert van Weperen, Stanley Stork, Steph Goodey, Tom Fulham, Tung Le, Wayne Murray. WRITER THANKS Iain Stewart I was lucky to have a wonderful research trip along Vietnam s stunning coastline. Thanks to Mark, Lu and Matt Cowan in Saigon, Caroline Mills, Neil Fraser and Travis in Hoi An, team Nha Trang and Grazina, Thomas and Julia. My appreciation as well to Laura Crawford and my co-authors. Brett Atkinson It s always a thrill and pleasure to return to one of my favourite countries, and my thanks go to Mark Zazula in HCMC, Ben, Bich, Seamus and the gang in Phong Nha, and the Hoi An crew of Neil, Caroline, Mark and Leanne. Cheers also to Tam in Dong Ha and Sy in Dong Hoi, and it was great for my wife Carol to finally meet my good friend Kien and his family in Hanoi. Austin Bush I m grateful for all the wonderful people on the ground in northern Vietnam, but my trip was made especially easier and more enjoyable by Mr Tung at Cat Ba Ventures, James and Mr Minh at Vision Travel, and the villagers of Na Hu, as well as my helpful Destination Editor, Laura Crawford. David Eimer Special thanks to Curtis, Thuy, Le and Thuan for the nights out in Dalat and their sound local advice. Thanks also to Laura Crawford, Iain Stewart and all the LP crew. As ever, much gratitude to everyone I met on the road who passed on tips, whether knowingly or unwittingly. Nick Ray A huge and heartfelt thanks to the people of Cambodia, whose warmth and humour, stoicism and spirit make it such a fascinating place to live. Biggest

13 thanks are reserved for my lovely wife Kulikar Sotho and our children Julian and Belle, as without their support and encouragement the adventures would not be possible. Thanks also to Mum and Dad for giving me a taste for travel from a young age. Phillip Tang Many thanks to the Vietnamese people and friends, especially Pham Hoang Manh in Hanoi; Nam, Tri and Liam Le in Saigon; Mr The for Ha Tien and Hon Chong; Nghiem Nguyen and Anthony in Can Tho; and Phuc Anh for the adventure to Tra Vinh. Thank you Laura Crawford for having me on board again. Thanks to Daniel Belfield for dressing gowns, bao, cocktails and xe om teaming. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Bundles of incense, Vietnam/ Getty 499 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 14th edition of Lonely Planet s Vietnam guidebook was curated by Iain Stewart and researched and written by Iain, Brett Atkinson, Austin Bush, David Eimer, Nick Ray and Phillip Tang. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Laura Crawford Product Editor Heather Champion Senior Cartographer Diana von Holdt Book Designer Gwen Cotter Assisting Editors Michelle Coxall, Carly Hall, Alex Knights, Helen Koehne, Kate Morgan, Christopher Pitts, Gabrielle Stefanos Assisting Cartographers Rachel Imeson, James Leversha Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Kate Chapman, Sandie Kestell, Jessica Ryan

14 500 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A accommodation 21, 22, activities 22, 36-42, see also individual activities air travel airlines 476 airports 476 to/from Vietnam 476 within Vietnam 479 American War 16, 440-5, 455 Anzac sites 266 environmental impacts 463 My Lai Massacre 224 unexploded ordnance (UXO) 164, 471 amusement parks 72 An Bang Beach , 423, 422 An Binh 363 An Thoi Islands Angkor temple complex 16, 401, , 402, 411, , 17, 414 highlights 402 itineraries 412, Angkor Thom , 415 Angkor Wat 56, , 17, 414 animals , see also wildlife sanctuaries & reserves, individual species antiques 343, 471 Anzac sites 266 architecture 23, area codes 19, 472 arts 90, ATMs 470 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 B Ba Be Lake 102 Ba Be National Park 14, 102-3, 14 Ba Le Well 202 Ba Na Hill Station 197 Bac Ha , 139, 24 Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary 365 Bach Ma National Park Bach Ma Temple 61, 276 Bahnar villages 304 Bai Dai Beach 250 Bai Mon 235 Bai Tu Long Bay , 107 Bai Xep 231-3, 423 ballooning 22, 42, 254 banh cuon 49, 48 banh mi 45, 335, 45 banh xeo 51, 52 Bao Lac 145 bargaining 21, 467 bathrooms 472 Bau Truc Village Bayon 413, 415 beaches 24, 40, 423 An Bang Beach , 432, 422 Bai Dai Beach 250 Cat Ba Island 111 Cham Islands 217 Co To Island 117 Cua Dai Beach 214 Dai Lanh Beach 234 Danang Beach Doc Let Beach 234 Ho Coc Beach Ho Tram Beach 263 Hon Chong 390 Hue 185 Lang Co Beach Mui Nai 390 Mui Ne 254 Nha Trang 236 Ninh Chu Beach Phu Quoc Island 377, 379, 380 Quan Lan Island 118 Quang Ngai 223 Quy Nhon 226, Van Don Island 119 beer 11, 22, 51, 85 Ben Hai River 165 Ben Tre , 361, 360 bia hoi 85 bicycle travel, see cycling bird flu 487 birds 460 birdwatching Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary 365 Bach Ma National Park 186 Siem Reap 405 Yok Don National Park 299 Bitexco Financial Tower 312 boat travel to/from Vietnam 477, 479 within Vietnam 480 boat trips Cat Ba Island 112 Halong Bay 108 Halong City 115 Ho Chi Minh City 323 Mui Ne 254 My Tho 357 Ngo Dong River Nha Trang 242, 243 Phu Quoc Island 380 Vinh Long 363 books 428, 449, 455 American War 440, 443, 444, 446 history 432 border crossings 477, 479, 478 Buddha s Birth, Enlightenment & Death (Phong Sinh) 26 Buddhism 433, 452 Buon Ma Thuot 295-8, 296 bus travel to/from Vietnam within Vietnam business hours 470 C Ca Mau 371-3, 372 Ca Na 253 Cai Rang Floating Market 365, 29 Cai Rong 119 Cam Kim Island 202 Cambodia border crossings 479 Chau Doc 393, 395 Ha Tien 389 Ho Chi Minh City 345 Pleiku 299 Can Gio Can Tho , 366, 29 accommodation food 369 shopping 370 sights tours 367 tourist information 370 travel to/from 370 canyoning 42 Cao Bang 121-2, 145, 121 Cao Daism 322, 453 Cao Lanh 397-9, 398 car travel to/from Vietnam 477 within Vietnam Cat Ba Island 92, , 423, 110, 423 accommodation activities 111 drinking & nightlife 114 food 114 sights tours tourist information 114

15 501 travel to/from travel within 115 Cat Ba National Park Cat Tien National Park 12, 284-5, 12 cathedrals, see churches caves 10, 425, Hang Dau Go 106, 109 Hang En 156, 421 Hang Son Doong 156 Hang Sung Sot 109 Hang Thien Cung 109 Hang Tien Hang Toi (Dark Cave) 10, 156 Hang Trong 109 Hang Trung Trang Hang Va 157 Hua Ma Cave 102 Mua Cave 150 Nguom Ngao Cave Nhi Thanh Cave 120 Paradise Cave 10, 157, 10 Phong Nha Cave 157 Tam Thanh Cave 120 Trang An Tu Lan Cave 156 caving 42 cell phones 18, 472 cemeteries Dien Bien Phu Cemetery Hang Duong Cemetery 270 Truong Son National Cemetery 166 central Vietnam 55, , 147 accommodation 146 climate 146 food 146 highlights 147 travel seasons 146 Cha Ban Cham Area 225 Cham Islands Cham Kate Festival 252 Champa 220 Chau Doc 391-4, 392 chikungunya 487 children, travel with 467 Hanoi 92 Ho Chi Minh City 341 China 91, 429 China border crossings 479 Lang Son 123 Lao Cai 138 Mong Cai Christianity 453 churches Cha Tam Church Chapel 196 Dalat Cathedral 288 Danang Cathedral 190 Immaculate Conception Cathedral 302 Nha Trang Cathedral 240 Notre Dame Cathedral 307, 312 Phat Diem Cathedral 151 Queen of the Rosary Cathedral 104 Sapa Church 132 St Joseph Cathedral 65 Tam Toa Church 161 Ton Dao Cathedral 151 Churning of the Ocean of Milk 413, 417 cinema 428, 436, 447, 455, 456, cinemas Hanoi 87 Ho Chi Minh City 342 cities 426 climate 18, 37, 467 Coconut Monk 357 coffee 15, 25, 45, 51-2, 86, 288, 15, 53 Co To Island Con Dao Islands 14, , 269, 14 Con Son 22 Con Son Town consulates 468 cooking courses Hanoi 72-3 Ho Chi Minh City 324 Hoi An 210 Mui Ne Sapa 133 Siem Reap 403, 405 Yok Don National Park 299 courses, see also cooking courses, individual locations art 72, 133 language 72-3, 324 craft beer 22 Crocodile Lake 284 Cu Chi Cu Chi Tunnels 16, , 16 Cua Dai Beach 214 Cuc Phuong National Park culture currency 18 curry 47 cycling 37, 38, Hanoi 97, 38 cyclos 25 D Dai Lanh Beach 234 Dalat 16, , 286, 16 accommodation climate 282 drinking & nightlife 293 entertainment festivals & events 290 food history sights tours 289 tourist information 294 travel to/from 294 travel within 294 Danang , 188, 194, 426 accommodation drinking & nightlife 192 festivals & events 190 food history sights tours 190 tourist information travel to/from 193 travel within 193 Danang Beach 193-6, 194 Danang International Fireworks Festival 25-6, 190, 26 dance 454 dangers, see safety de Rhodes, Alexandre 435 Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) 16, 164-6, 166 dengue 487 diarrhoea 489 Dien Bien Phu 16, 126-9, 127, 32 Dien Tho Residence 173, 174 disabilities, travellers with diving 37, 40 Cham Islands 216 Con Dao Islands 273 Hoi An 204 Nha Trang Phu Quoc Island 380 Doc Let Beach 234 Dong Ha Dong Ho 386 Dong Hoi 22, 161-4, 162 Dong Van Dragon Bridge 189, 426 dragon fruit 260 Dragon Island 359 dress 20 drinks 11, 45, 51-2, 140, 11, 15, 53 driving, see car travel Duong Dong 377, 378 Duyen Hai 353 E economy 428 electricity 467 elephants 460, 464 embassies 468 emergencies 19, 469 environment environmental issues 375, 428-9, ethnic minorities etiquette 20, 449, 450, 469 temples 412 exchange rates 19 F Fairy Spring 254 Father & Son Isle 390 festivals & events Buddha s Birth, Enlightenment and Death (Phong Sinh) 26 Buon Ma Thuot Coffee Festival 25 Cham Kate Festival 27 Children s (or Mid- Autumn) Festival 27 Christmas Day (Giang Sinh) 27 Dalat Flower Festival 25 Danang International Fireworks Festival 25-6, 190, 26 food 44 Hanoi Pride 27 Holiday of the Dead (Thanh Minh) 26 Hue festival 26, 177 Khmer Oc Bom Boc Festival 27 Mid-Autumn Festival (Trung Thu) 27 Nha Trang Sea Festival 27 Quang Trung 25 Saigon Cyclo Challenge 25 INDEX C-F

16 502 INDEX C-L festivals & events continued Summer Solstice Day (Tet Doan Ngo) 27 Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan) 25, 452, 26 Vietnam National Day 27 Wandering Souls Day (Trung Nguyen) 27 film 428, 436, 447, 455, 456 Fish Sauce Factory 377 floating houses 391 floating markets 368 Cai Rang 365, 29 Chau Doc 391 Phong Dien 367 food 9, 21, 22, 23, 43-51, 8-9, 46, 47, 48, 52, see also cooking courses, individual locations banh mi 45, 45 dragon fruit 260 festivals 44 food tours 50, 50 pho 49, 8, 48 regional specialities 45, 47, 49, 51, 208, 210, 259, 335 royal rice cakes 180 street food 22, 44, 82, 246, 43 vegetarian & vegan 44-5 G galleries, see museums & galleries Ganh Da Dia 231 gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers 27, 456, Hanoi 87 Ho Chi Minh City 344 geography geology 112, golf Mui Ne 256 Vung Tau 264 H Ha Giang Province 12, 141-5, 12, 32-3 Ha Giang Town Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Ha Tien 386-8, 387 Hai Van Pass 187 Hai Van Tunnel 187 Haiphong 103-6, 104 Halls of the Mandarins 173, 175 Halong Bay 10, , 107, 10, 31, 36 environmental issues 461 Halong City , 116 Hang En 156, 421 Hang Nga Crazy House Hang Son Doong 156 Hang Toi (Dark Cave) 10, 156 Hanoi 14, 22, 54, 58-96, 59, 62-3, 66-7, 70, 73, 74-5, 14, accommodation 58, activities 71-2 children, travel with 92 climate 58 courses 72-3 curfews 84 drinking & nightlife 85-7 festivals & events 77 food 58, 81-5 highlights 59, 59 history 60 itineraries 61 safety 90 shopping sights tours 73-7 tourist information 90-2 travel seasons 58 travel to/from 92-5 travel within 95-6 walking tours 76, 76 Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural 62 health insurance 486 vaccinations 488 water 487 websites 486 hepatitis A 487 hepatitis B 487 highlands 425, 425 hiking, see trekking Hinduism 453 historic buildings & sites Angkor Conservation 403 Assembly Hall of the Cantonese Chinese Congregation 203 Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation 202 Assembly Hall of the Hainan Chinese Congregation 202 Ben Dinh 350 Ben Duoc 350 Cannon Fort Central Post Office 312 Chinese All-Community Assembly Hall Co Loa Citadel 97 Cow Shed 272 Crémaillère Railway Station 287 Cu Chi Tunnels 16, , 16 Dien Bien Phu 16, 126-9, 127, 32 Diep Dong Nguyen House 204 Dong Hoi Citadel Gates 161 French Fort 143 Hamburger Hill Hanoi Opera House 69 Heritage House 61 Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex 66-8 Ho Chi Minh Pilgrimage Spots 154 Ho Quyen 184 Hospital Cave 111 Huynh Thuy Le Old House 400 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 68 Khe Sanh Combat Base 165 Nam Giao Esplanade National School 176 Opera House 104 People s Committee Building , 457, 281 Phoenix Island Sanctuary 357 Phu Binh Camp 271 Phu Hai Prison 270 Phung Hung Old House 202 Quan Thang House 203 Quang Tri 165 Quy Hoa Beach & Leper Hospital Reunification Palace , 281 Rockpile 166 Tan Ky House 201 Thanh Citadel 250 Tiger Cages 270 Tran Duong House 203 Tran Family Chapel 202 Vinh Moc Tunnels 164-5, 167 Vua Meo 138 Vung Tau 16 Vuong Palace history American War 16, 440-5, 455 China relations Chinese occupation 432, 433 communism 436 first inhabitants French occupation independence 433 Khmer Rouge reunification Tay Son Rebellion Viet Cong (VC) 440 war history 16, 23 WWII 437 HIV 487 Hmong people 451, 24 Ho Chi Minh 66-8, 438, 439 Ho Chi Minh City 11, 55, , 308-9, 310, 314, 317, 319, 329, 348, 11, 30-1, accommodation 306, activities children, travel with 341 climate 306 courses 324 drinking & nightlife entertainment festivals & events 325 food 22, 306, highlights history 307 itineraries 307 safety 344 shopping sights tours tourist information travel seasons 306 travel to/from travel within Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex 66-8, 277 Ho Chi Minh Trail Ho Coc Beach 262-3

17 503 Ho Tram Beach 263 Hoa Binh Hoa Hao Buddhism 453 Hoan Kiem Lake 63 Hoi An 9, , 198-9, 9, accommodation activities 204 cooking courses210, 51 drinking & nightlife festivals & events 206 food history safety 213 shopping sights tailors 212 tours 205, 210 travel to/from travel within 214 holidays homestays 367 Hon Chong 390 Hon Giang 388 hot-air ballooning 22, 42, 254 Hue 11, , 170-1, 183, 11 accommodation climate 146 drinking & nightlife festivals & events 26, 177 food history 169 Imperial Enclosure shopping 181 sights tours 177 tourist information 181 travel to/from travel within 182 Hue After Dark 22 Hue Festival 26, 177 I immigration 476 Imperial Enclosure (Hue) insurance car 469 health 468 travle 469 internet access 469 internet resources 19 Islam 453 islands 423 itineraries 28-35, 50 J Jade Emperor Pagoda 316, 280 Japanese B encephalitis 487 Japanese Covered Bridge 201, 279 Jarai people 300, 304, 451 jeep tours 22 Jun 295 K Karst Mountains 108, 425, 424 kayaking & SUP 37, 42, 36 Cat Ba Island 111 Hoi An 204 Khmer Rouge kitesurfing 40 Mui Ne 17, 256, 17 Ninh Chu Beach 252 Kon Harachot 304 Kon Ktu 304 Kon Tum 22, 301-5, 425, 302, 425 Kon Tum Konam 304 Kon Tum Kopong 304 L Lak Lake 295 Lan Ha Bay 109 Lang Co Beach Lang Son language 18, 21, language courses Hanoi 72-3 Ho Chi Minh City 324 Lao Cai Laos border crossings 479 Dien Bien Phu 129 Dong Ha 168 Kon Tum 305 Vinh 153 Lat Village 289 laundry 468 Le 295 Le Loi legal matters 469 lesbian travellers 27, 456, Hanoi 87 Ho Chi Minh City 344 lighthouses Ke Ga Lighthouse 261 Vung Tau Lighthouse 264 literature 455-6, see also books live music Hanoi 87-8 Ho Chi Minh City Long Bien Bridge 61-2 Long Hai 262 Long Xuyen 396-7, 397 Lung Cam 143 Lung Cu 143, 32 M magazines 468 Mai Chau 22, Mai Pi Leng Pass 141, 12 malaria 487 Marble Mountains 195 markets 13, 23, 13, see also floating markets Bac Ha 138, 140-1, 24 Ca Mau 371 Dong Van 143 Hanoi 62, Ho Chi Minh City Hue 176 Meo Vac 145 Mui Ne 254 Sapa 130, 132 Siem Reap 409 Sinho 130 Son La 126 Vinh Long 363 Martyrs Monument 65, 276 massages Hanoi 72 Ho Chi Minh City Mui Ne 256 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park 157 Siem Reap 403 measles 488 measures 468 medical services Mekong Delta 56, , 355 accommodation 354 climate 354 food 354 highlights 355 history 356 travel seasons 354 travel to/within 356 Mekong River 384 memorials French War Memorial 128 Son My Memorial 223 Venerable Thich Quang Duc Memorial 316 War Memorial (233 Meo Vac 145 metro 95 M lieng 295 mobile phones 18, 472 money 18, 21, 467, 470, 471 Mong Cai monkeys 352 monuments, see statues & monuments mosques Chau Doc 391 Ho Chi Minh City 313, 321 motorcycle travel to/from Vietnam 477 within Vietnam 38-9, 481-3, 39 mountain biking, see also cycling Cat Ba Island 111 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park 158 Mui Nai 390 Mui Ne 17, , 255 accommodation activities courses drinking & nightlife 260 festivals & events 257 food shopping 260 sights 254 tourist information travel to/from 261 travel within 261 Muong people 451 Muong Te Muong Thanh Bridge 128 museums & galleries Alexandre Yersin Museum An Giang Museum 396 Angkor National Museum 402 Artisans Angkor - Les Chantiers coles Bao Tang Con Dao Museum 270 Bao Tang Quang Tri 167 Binh Dinh Museum 228 Cambolac 403 Can Tho Museum 365 Cham Cultural Centre 251 Coi Nguon Museum 379 Cu Chi War History Museum 350 Dien Bien Phu Museum 127 INDEX H-L

18 504 INDEX M-P museums & galleries continued Dong Thap Museum Ethnographic Museum 295 Factory, The 323 Fine Arts Museum (Ho Chi Minh City) 312 Fine Arts Museum of Vietnam (Hanoi) 65 General Museum Complex 176 Gia Lai Museum 300 Haiphong Museum 104 History Museum 318 Ho Chi Minh Museum (Danang) 190 Ho Chi Minh Museum (Hanoi) 67 Ho Chi Minh Museum (Ho Chi Minh City) 312 Ho Chi Minh Museum (Hue) 176 Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum 97 Hoa Lo Prison Museum 63 Hoi An Museum of History & Culture 204 Khmer Minority People s Museum 361 Kien Giang Museum 373 Lam Dong Museum 288 Long Thanh Gallery 239 Mai Loc Gallery 239 MGC Asian Traditional Textiles Museum 403 Mine Action Visitor Centre 167 Museum of Cham Sculpture 189 Museum of Folklore in Hoi An 203 Museum of Sa Huynh Culture & Museum of the Revolution 203 Museum of Trading Ceramics 203 Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Medicine 323 Museum of Vietnamese Revolution 65 National Museum of Vietnamese History 63-4 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 National Oceanographic Museum 240 Old French Prison & Museum Phu Quoc Prison 379 Quang Trung Museum 225 Revolutionary Museum 272 Robert Taylor Museum of Worldwide Arms, The 264 Royal Fine Arts Museum 176 Salon Saigon 315 San Art 318 Sapa Museum 130 Seminary & Hill-Tribe Museum Ton Duc Thang Museum 396 Vietnam Military History Museum 65 Vietnam Museum of Ethnology 69 Vietnamese Women s Museum 64 War Remnants Museum 313 White Villa 264 music 454 My Lai Massacre 224 My Son , 219, 24 My Tho 357-9, 358 mythology 112 N Na Hu national parks & reserves Ba Be National Park 14, 102-3, 14 Ba Vi National Park 96-7 Bach Ma National Park Bidoup Nui Ba National Park 288 Cat Ba National Park Cat Tien National Park 12, 284-5, 12 Cuc Phuong National Park Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park 10, , 425, 155, 10, 421, Phu Quoc National Park 379 Tam Dao National Park 98 Vam Sat 353 Van Long Nature Reserve 149 Yok Don National Park newspapers 468 Nghe Islands 388 Ngo Mon Gateway 175, 175 Nguyen Trai 433 Nha Trang , 423, 237, 238, 422 accommodation activities drinking & nightlife festivals & events 27 food safety 248 shopping sights tours 243 tourist information 249 travel to/from travel within 250 Nine Dynastic Urns 176, 174 Ninh Binh City 147-9, 150 Ninh Binh Province Ninh Chu Beach Ninh Van Bay Nixon, Richard north-central Vietnam , 148 northeast Vietnam northern Vietnam 54, , accommodation 99 climate 99 food 99 highlights travel seasons 99 northwest Vietnam Nui Son Tra 196 Nung people 451 O Oc-Eo 396, 430 One Pillar Pagoda of Thu Duc 351 Ong Temple 365 opening hours 470 P pagodas 457, see also tombs & temples Ang Pagoda 361 Bao Quoc Pagoda 176 Bich Dong Pagoda 150 Cavern Pagoda Chuc Thanh Pagoda 203 Dieu De National Pagoda 176 Dong Huong Pagoda 151 Du Hang Pagoda Giac Lam Pagoda Giac Vien Pagoda Hang Cave Pagoda 390 Hang Pagoda 361 Ho Quoc Pagoda 379 Hoi Tinh Pagoda 254 Jade Emperor Pagoda Kampong Ksan 361 Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda 320 Linh Quang Pagoda 288 Linh Son Pagoda 288 Long Son Pagoda 237 Mahatup Pagoda 371 Munireangsey Pagoda 366 Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda 321 One Pillar Pagoda of Thu Duc 351 Ong Bon Pagoda 321 Ong Met Pagoda 361 Ong Pagoda 361 Perfume Pagoda 96 Phac Hat Pagoda 204 Phap Lam Pagoda 190 Phu Dung Pagoda 386 Phung Son Pagoda 322 Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda Phuoc Lam Pagoda Phuoc Thien Pagoda 254 Pitu Kohsa Rangsay Pagoda 365 Quan Am Pagoda 320 Quan Lan Pagoda 118 Quang Cong Pagoda 252 Tam Bao Pagoda 386 Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda 321 Tay An Pagoda 395 Tay Phuong Pagoda 96 Thach Dong Cave Pagoda 386 Thay Pagoda 96 Thien Hau Pagoda 320 Thien Mu Pagoda 182 Truc Lam Pagoda Tu Hieu Pagoda 184 Van Son Temple Vinh Trang Pagoda 357 Xa Loi Pagoda Xa Lon Pagoda 370

19 505 painting 455 Pan Hou Ecolodge 144 Paradise Cave 10, 157, 10 parks & gardens Thang 4 Park 391 Botanic Gardens (Ho Chi Minh City) 318 Dalat Flower Gardens 288 Senteurs d Angkor Botanic Garden 403 Tao Dan Park 316 Van Thanh Mieu 397 passports 473-4, 476 pedestrianisation 429 People s Committee Building , 457, 281 Phan Rang Phan Thiet Phat Diem 151 Phnom Kulen pho 49, 8, 48 Phong Dien Floating Market 367 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park 10, , 425, 155, 10, 421, photography 470 Phu Quoc Island 13, 22, , 376, 13 accommodation activities 380 drinking & nightlife food history 375 shopping 385 sights tours 380 tourist information 385 travel to/from 385 travel within Phu Quoc National Park 379 Pirate Island planning, see also individual regions budgeting calendar of events 25-7 children, travel with 467 internet resources 19 itineraries packing 20 repeat visitors 22 travel seasons Vietnam basics 18-19, 20-1 Vietnam s regions 54-6 Pleiku poaching 464 population 429 postal services 470 public holidays puppetry 455 Preah Khan 417, 415 Preah Neak Poan 412, 415 Q Quan Ba Pass 12, 143 Quan Lan Island Quang Ngai Quy Nhon , 227 R rabies 488 rafting 42 Rach Gia 373-5, 374 religion 429, reserves, see national parks & reserves Reunification Palace , 281 rhinos 462 rice 49 rivers 426 rock climbing42 Cat Ba Island 112 royal rice cakes 180 S Sa Dec 400, 400 safety 471 Hanoi 90 hiking 38 Ho Chi Minh City 344 Hoi An 213 Nha Trang 248 unexploded ordnance (UXO) 164, 471 Saigon, see Ho Chi Minh City sailing 40 Sam Mountain saola 460 Sapa 15, 130-7, 131, 5, 15 accommodation activities courses 133 drinking & nightlife 136 food shopping 136 sights tourist information 136 tours 133 travel to/from travel within 137 schistosomiasis Sedang people 304, 451 shopping 471-2, see also individual locations Siem Reap 56, , 402, 404 accommodation activities 403 climate 401 courses drinking & nightlife entertainment 409 food 401, highlights 402 shopping 409 sights tourist information 410 tours travel seasons 401 travel to/from 410 travel within 410 Sinho 130 smoking 468 snake wine 464 snorkelling 37, 40, 41 Cham Islands 216 Con Dao Islands 273 Hoi An 204 Nha Trang Phu Quoc Island 380 Soc Trang Son La south-central Vietnam , 165 southeast coast 55, , 222 accommodation 221 climate 221 food 221 highlights 222 travel seasons 221 southwest highlands 55, , 425, 283, 425 accommodation 282 climate 282 food 282 highlights 283 history 290 travel seasons 282 spas An Bang Beach 215 Bai Xep 232 Ho Chi Minh City Hoi An 204 Mui Ne 256 Nha Trang Sapa 132 Siem Reap 403 Sra Srang 418, 415 statues & monuments A1 Hill 127 Buddha (Nha Trang) 240 Bunker of Colonel de Castries 128 Giant Jesus 264 Ho Chi Minh 109 Linh Ung 196 Lung Cu 143 Martyrs Monument 65 Nguyen Trung Truc Statue 373 Tran Hung Dao Statue 240 Victory Monument (Buon Ma Thot) 296 Victory Monument (Dien Bien Phu) 128 War Memorial 121 STIs 489 street food 22, 44, 82, 246, 43 street names 446 SUP 42 surfing 40 Vung Tau 264 swimming Hanoi 72 Ho Chi Minh City 324 Mui Ne 256 Vung Tau 266 T Ta Cu Mountain 262 Ta Prohm , 415 tailors 212 Tam Dao Hill Station 97-8 Tam Hai Island 228 Tam Son Taoism 452 Tay Ninh Tay people 127, 451 tea 51 telephone services 18, 472 Temple of Literature 65, 276 temples, see tombs & temples Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan) 25, 452, 26 Thai Hoa Palace 173, 175 Thai people 451 Thanh Ha 215 Thanh Toan Bridge 184 Thap Cham Thap Rua 63 INDEX Q-T

20 506 INDEX T-Z theatre 455 Hanoi 88-9 Ho Chi Minh City 312 thermal baths tigers 460 time 18, 472 tipping 21, 471 toilets 472 tombs & temples 23-4, 457, see also pagodas Ambassadors Pagoda 68-9 Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation Ba Chuc Tomb Ba Om Pond 361 Bach Ma Temple 61 Bakong 417 Banh It Cham Towers 225 Banteay Kdei & Sra Srang 417 Banteay Srei Baphuon 416 Bayon 413 Beng Mealea 419 Buu Son Tu Cao Dai Holy See Cao Dai Temple 189, 372 Chau Phu Temple 391 Chua Bai Dinh 150 Dinh Cau Temple 377 Duong Long Cham Towers 225 Hai Ba Trung Temple 69 Hoa Lu Temples 150 Hoang Lien Mountains (Tonkinese Alps) 425, 424 Le Van Duyet Temple 323 Long Khanh Pagoda 228 Mariamman Hindu Temple 316 Minh Thanh Temple 300 Ngoc Son Temple 64 Ngoc Tien Monastery 386 Nguyen Trung Truc Temple 373 Nhan Cham Tower 233 Nui Ba Den 352 One Pillar Pagoda 68 Ong Ngu 217 Ong Temple 365 Phnom Bakheng 416 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Po Klong Garai Cham Towers 251 Po Nagar Cham Towers Po Ro Me Cham Tower 251 Po Shanu Cham Towers 254 Pre Rup 412 Preah Khan 417 Preah Neak Poan 412 Preah Palilay 416 Quan Cong Temple 203 Quan Thanh Temple 69 Ta Som 412 Tay Ho Pagoda 70 Temple of Lady Xu 395 Temple of Literature 65, 276 Thap Doi Cham Towers 228 Tomb of Gia Long 185 Tomb of Khai Dinh 184 Tomb of Minh Mang Tomb of Thieu Tri 185 Tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau 395 Tomb of Tu Duc 183 Tran Quoc Pagoda 71 Van Thanh Mieu Temple 363 Van Thuy Tu Temple 261 Tonkinese Alps, see Hoang Lien Mountains Tortoise Island 359 tourist information 472 tours 484 see also individual locations Tra Su Bird Sanctuary 391 train travel to/from Vietnam 477 within Vietnam Tram Ton Pass 132 travel seasons 25-7, 37 travel to/from Vietnam travel within Vietnam 38-9, Tra Vinh 361-3, 362 trekking 15, 37-8 Bac Ha Bach Ma National Park 186 Cat Ba Island 111 Cat Tien National Park 284 central Vietnam 38 Con Dao Islands 272 Cuc Phuong National Park 152 Mai Chau 124 northern Vietnam 37-8 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park 158 Sapa southern Vietnam 38 Yok Don National Park 299 Truc Bach Lake 71 tuberculosis 489 tunnels Cu Chi Tunnels 16, , 16 Lon Phuoc Tunnels 266 Vinh Moc Tunnels 164-5, 167 turtles 152 Tuy Hoa 233 typhoid 489 typhus 489 U U-Minh Forest 371 unexploded ordnance (UXO) 164, 471 Unicorn Island 359 V vacations vaccinations 488 Van Don Island 119 vaping 468 vegetarian & vegan travellers 44-5 Viet Cong (VC) 440 Viet Hai 111 Vietnam basics Vinh 154 Vinh Long 363-5, 364 Vinh Moc Tunnels 164-5, 167 visas 18, volunteering 474 Vo Thi Sau 272 Vung Ro Bay 235 Vung Tau 264-8, 265, 267 W walking, see trekking walking tours 76, 76 Wandering Souls Day (Trung Nguyen) 27 War Remnants Museum 313, 281 waterfalls Ba Ho Falls 250 Ban Gioc Waterfall 122 Dambri Falls 288, 289 Datanla Falls 289 Dau Dang Waterfall 102 Elephant Falls 289 Suoi Da Ban 380 Suoi Tranh 379 water parks 324 water puppetry 88, 342, 455 weather 18, 37, 467 weights 468 West Lake 69 whales 459 Whale Island 234 white-water rafting 42 Nha Trang 243 wildlife sanctuaries & reserves Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary 365 Bang Lang Stork Garden 367 Cat Tien Bear & Wild Cat Rescue Station 284 Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station 350 Dao Tien Endangered Primate Species Centre 284 Endangered Primate Rescue Center 152 Monkey Island Eco Forest Park 352 Tra Su Bird Sanctuary 391 Turtle Conservation Center 152 windsurfing 40, 41 Mui Ne 20, 256 women in Vietnam 453 women travellers women s health 490 work 475 X Xeo Quyt Forest 399 Xuan Huong Lake 289 Y Ya Chim 304 yoga Hoi An 204 Mui Ne 255 Nha Trang 243 Siem Reap 403 Yok Don National Park Z Zika 489

21 507 NOTES

22 508 NOTES

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24 510 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Hut/Shelter Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro/MRT/MTR station Monorail Parking Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

25 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd David Eimer Southwest Highlands David has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since Read more about David at: davidbkk67 Nick Ray Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor A Londoner of sorts, Nick harks from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. After studying history and politics, in 1998 he hit the road for a life in travel and has worked on about 50 titles for Lonely Planet since. Based in Cambodia, he covers countries in Southeast Asia, including Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam, with the occasional diversion to Africa. Nick also works as a location scout and line producer for film and television, writes articles for magazines and newspapers, and lectures on tours for travel companies and international organisations. Nick lives in Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and two children, Julian and Belle. Motorbiking around the Mekong remains a passion and the region remains a great place for two-wheeled adventures. Read more about Nick at: nickjray Phillip Tang Hanoi, Mekong Delta Phillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish n chips before moving to Mexico City. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and then writing about it for Lonely Planet s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Writing at hellophillip. com, and Phillip also wrote the People & Culture chapter. Read more about Phillip at: philliptang

26 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Iain Stewart Southeast Coast Iain trained as journalist in the 1990s and then worked as a news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. He started writing travel guides in 1997 and has since penned over 60 books for destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. Iain s contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Mexico, Indonesia, Central America, Croatia, Vietnam, Bali and Lombok and South-East Asia. He also writes regularly for the Independent, Observer and Daily Telegraph and tweets Iain also wrote Plan Your Trip (except for Eat & Drink Like a Local, and People & Culture), and the Scenes of Vietnam and Understand chapters. Brett Atkinson Read more about Iain at: stewpot Central Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in adventure travel, unusual destinations, and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett s favourite reasons to explore places, and he is featured regularly on the Lonely Planet website, and in other newspapers and magazines. Since becoming a Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific. Brett also wrote the Eat & Drink Like a Local chapter. Read more about Brett at: BrettAtkinson Austin Bush Northern Vietnam Austin originally moved to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study programme hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led him to Bangkok, where they have managed to keep him since. These days, Austin works as a writer and photographer. He has contributed to numerous books, magazines and websites, including more than 20 Lonely Planet titles, such as Bangkok; The Food Book; Food Lover s Guide to the World; Laos; Malaysia; Myanmar (Burma); Thailand; and The World s Best Street Food. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition August 2018 ISBN Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Read more about Austin at: osten_th Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.