Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

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Ira Ramsey
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October 30 November 12, 2018 Leaders: Kris Ashton and Christine Petty $ Magome, one of 11 post towns of the Nakasendo Way that we will pass through Dear Fellow Traveler: Thank you for your interest

To apply for a place on the trip, please register online here by paying a $500 deposit, after which the leader will contact you and have you complete a Participant Application.

1 October 30 November 12, 2018 Leaders: Kris Ashton and Christine Petty $ Magome, one of 11 post towns of the Nakasendo Way that we will pass through Dear Fellow Traveler: Thank you for your interest in the Adventure Travel trip Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk. Please read the following trip description, itinerary and other information carefully before you consider participating in this trip. To apply for a place on the trip, please register online here by paying a $500 deposit, after which the leader will contact you and have you complete a Participant Application. Alternately, you may contact the trip leader to discuss the trip before registering. Complete the Application (including the signed AT Waiver and Cancellation Policy documents) and return them to the trip leader. Once accepted, pay the remaining balance by June 30, If you sign up for the trip after June 30, 2018 the entire amount is due at that time. The group will have a maximum of 12 persons including the two leaders. Accommodation is double occupancy in both Western style (beds, en suite toilet and bath) and Japanese style (futons on the floor, shared gender segregated toilets and baths) rooms. In one case, accommodation is dormitory style with futons on the floor of two large shared rooms. Accommodation details are described in the itinerary. Trip Information 11/25/2017

2 The price of the trip is $x,xxx for members. What s included in the price: Two trip leaders who have walked the Way and are familiar with its history, sites and culture Pre trip planning assistance and activities 13 nights' accommodation in Western style hotels and Japanese style inns Welcome get together with drinks and snacks 13 breakfasts, 2 lunches, 10 dinners All ground transportation Unique Buddhist temple experience with morning fire ceremony in Koyasan Walking tour of Koyasan with English speaking guide Decorative sushi making class with lunch Entrance to Hiroshigi Print Museum with woodblock print making experience Luggage transfer on the Nakasendo Way walk Nakasendo Walking Map Entrance to Mt. Ontake Ropeway (weather/season permitting) Entrance to Matusmoto Castle Visit to Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo Gifts for our hosts (tipping is not customary) What s not included in the price: RT airfare to/from Japan (~$1600) Suggested travel insurance (cancellation/interruption/etc., travel medical and/or evacuation) Airport transfers Beverages aside from tea generally served with meals Pharmacy/medical costs Activities when on your own Optional components of temple visits Souvenirs, gifts, etc. 10 lunches, 2 dinners Nakasendo Traveler's Staff The trip begins in Osaka, Japan and ends in Tokyo, Japan. You will need to arrive in Osaka on or before 5:00 p.m. October 30, Pre requisites for the trip are a good attitude, tolerance, willingness to embrace the local culture, and excellent physical conditioning as we will be doing B level hikes over a variety of terrains and elevations. The Nakasendo Way passes through the Kiso River valley, with a variety of walking surfaces including sidewalks, quiet country roads and along some highways as we pass village to village. There are also some forested mountainous trails that could include gravel roads, dirt roads or dirt paths. Hikes are between 7 16 km. City walking tours are between 1 5 hours. You should plan to bring a daypack that will carry equipment comparable to what you would bring on a typical day hike in the Pacific Northwest during the autumn months (meaning it could be rainy and cool). In addition to your day pack, you are allowed one piece of luggage (carry on size, as you will be carrying it on/off trains, subway, buses, and along sidewalks). Any bag larger than carry on size will not be transported on the Nakasendo Way section of the trip. Nothing may be attached to the outside of the transported bag. In Japan, evening clothes/shoes are not necessary as the accommodations provide kimono robes and house slippers. NOTE: there are two (non consecutive) nights on the Nakasendo walk section where we will not have access to our luggage, so participants will need to have everything they need for those nights in their daypacks. A visa is NOT necessary for US passport holders visiting Japan for a short term stay of less than 90 days and for the purpose of tourism and business.

Attendance at the pre trip planning meeting is mandatory, as there will be much to discuss.

If you are unable to attend the meeting in person, we can set up a virtual meeting link for you.

A selection of maps, handouts and guidebooks will be available for your review. At least one pre trip hike will be arranged.

3 Attendance at the pre trip planning meeting is mandatory, as there will be much to discuss. Location will be the CMC office in Golden, and you will receive ample notice of the date and time. If you are unable to attend the meeting in person, we can set up a virtual meeting link for you. Topics will include suggested equipment, packing, training, cultural notes, and security precautions. A selection of maps, handouts and guidebooks will be available for your review. At least one pre trip hike will be arranged. Attendance at pre trip hikes is not required but is highly recommended. Please let us know what questions you may have we are at your disposal! Kris Ashton and Christine Petty kris@aimhigh.net capetty@aol.com Your trip leaders, Kris and Christine, enjoying dinner at a ryokan (a Japanese style inn) po 200 jizos at Narai post town

Our trip is timed to visit key locations at the height of the fall foliage displays, in both Koyasan and along the Nakasendo Way.

4 Koyasan and Nakasendo Way Walk, October 30-November 12, 2018 Autumn is an amazing time to be in Japan! The fall foliage in Japan is said to be as good as, or even better than, the foliage of the Northeastern United States. Our trip is timed to visit key locations at the height of the fall foliage displays, in both Koyasan and along the Nakasendo Way. Our trip starts in the city of Osaka where we ll have an opportunity to explore the energetic Dotonbori neighborhood before heading up the mountain to Koyasan. Koyasan is a complex of over 100 individual temples dedicated to the study and practice of Shingon Buddhism, brought to Japan in 819 by Kobo Daishi. We ll stay at one of the temples where we ll be taken care of by the monks who live there. At the temple, we can enjoy meditation practice, experience sutra writing or just relax in the hot bath or beautiful gardens. We ll explore Koyasan with a knowledgeable local guide and participate in making our own decorative sushi as part of our lunch. We ll hike along a rugged mountain route once allocated to women pilgrims. The Nakasendō Way ( 中山道 Central Mountain Route), also called the Kisokaidō, was one of two routes that connected Edo (modern day Tokyo) to Kyoto in Japan. There were 69 stations (staging posts or posttowns) between Edo and Kyoto, established for the purpose of providing a resting place for travelers along the road. Post towns provided accommodation, fresh horses, meals and transportation of goods along the Way. The Nakasendo Way was used by the shogun, daimyo, and other important persons needing to travel between the two capitals of Japan during the Edo period ( ). There is some evidence that the route was also traveled by pilgrims. Our walk passes through a section knows as Kisoji in the Kiso River Valley of central Honshu. The route's eleven post towns were incorporated into the Nakasendo because the route already existed and there were many towns along the way that were set up for long distance travelers. Some parts of the Nakasendo now follow a river and major highway; we ll skip some of these sections by taking a local train a few times. We ll also visit and hike a section of the Kisokaidō in the Alps of Japan before ending our adventure in Tokyo. Nakasendo Way hike areas The Nakasendo Way connects Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo)

Accommodation In both Koyasan and most places along the Nakasendo Way, we ll stay in Japanese style accommodations.

Japanese style room with futons The futons may be set out already, or there may be a small, low table in the center of the room with cushions for seating.

Japanese bath The baths in the accommodation are always gender segregated, but may be shared with several guests at a time (depending on the size of the bath).

5 Accommodation In both Koyasan and most places along the Nakasendo Way, we ll stay in Japanese style accommodations. Whether it s a Buddhist temple, a family run ryokan (guest house) or a Japanese style hotel, they all have three things in common: the futon beds, the hot bath, and the food. Japanese style room with futons The futons may be set out already, or there may be a small, low table in the center of the room with cushions for seating. In some accommodations, while guests are enjoying dinner, the staff may come and lay out the futons. Kimono robes (generally with jackets), house slippers, towels and toiletries are provided. Japanese bath The baths in the accommodation are always gender segregated, but may be shared with several guests at a time (depending on the size of the bath). Guests first shower thoroughly using the hand showers and then slide into the hot water to relax. Clothing, swim suits or towels are not allowed in the soaking tubs. Typical Japanese meal Japanese meals consist of many small dishes of a wide variety of things, including vegetables, tofu, fish, meat and/or rice. Tea is always served with meals. The meal might be placed on the table all at once or be served in courses. At dinner there is generally a hot pot with all sorts of goodies cooking in it. Vegetarian meals are available. In fact, while staying in the Buddhist temple in Koyasan, the meals are entirely vegetarian. (Sorry, there is no gluten free option.)

Itinerary Tuesday, October 30 Welcome drinks and snacks Arrival in Osaka, Japan Group welcome meeting in the evening.

Those who are not too tired after their long journey may want to get dinner together (not included) or explore the nearby Dotonbori neighborhood. Optional dinner together at a local restaurant.

Dotonbori neighborhood Wednesday, October 31 Koya, the mascot character of Koyasan Travel from Osaka to Koyasan Evening walk in Koyasan (distance varies w/walk options).

6 Itinerary Tuesday, October 30 Welcome drinks and snacks Arrival in Osaka, Japan Group welcome meeting in the evening. This evening we ll congregate in the hotel lounge area for a welcome drink and some snacks while we review the exciting itinerary we have planned. Those who are not too tired after their long journey may want to get dinner together (not included) or explore the nearby Dotonbori neighborhood. Optional dinner together at a local restaurant. Accommodation: Western style hotel rooms with private bath & toilet in the energetic Dotonbori area of Osaka. Dotonbori neighborhood Wednesday, October 31 Koya, the mascot character of Koyasan Travel from Osaka to Koyasan Evening walk in Koyasan (distance varies w/walk options). After enjoying a sumptuous breakfast at our hotel, we leave the bright lights of Osaka and head up into the mountains to Koyasan, the complex of Shingon Buddhist temples founded by Kobo Daishi in 819. We ll stay in an active Buddhist temple where we can enjoy the beautiful peaceful setting, participate in Ajikan meditation or experience Buddhist sutra writing. After dinner together in the temple, we ll enjoy a casual night walk through Okunoin Cemetery where we can see the tomb of Kobo Daishi among the thousands of shrines and monuments there. Accommodation: Buddhist temple, One of over 50 temples allowing accommodation for tourists and pilgrims. Japanese style rooms with futons on the floor and shared bath & toilets. The temple is over 1,000 years old, yet offers modern amenities. NOTE: all meals at the Buddhist temple are vegetarian.

Thursday, November 1 Breakfast, lunch and dinner In Koyasan Guided tour with sushi making class (up to 5 hours

This morning we ll visit Okunion Cemetery (again, in the daylight) where we can observe the ritual delivery of

For lunch we ll participate in a decorative sushi making class and enjoy the sushi we made as part of our lunch.

head temple of Shingon Buddhism (entrance optional).

Here is a beautiful website describing Koyasan. Decorative sushi Accommodation: Buddhist temple.

7 Thursday, November 1 Breakfast, lunch and dinner In Koyasan Guided tour with sushi making class (up to 5 hours walking). After breakfast together at the temple, we ll meet our local guide for a walking tour of Koyasan. This morning we ll visit Okunion Cemetery (again, in the daylight) where we can observe the ritual delivery of food to Kobo Daishi who is said to be resting in a state of perpetual meditation. For lunch we ll participate in a decorative sushi making class and enjoy the sushi we made as part of our lunch. Afterwards, we ll visit the Danjo Garan complex of temples and shrines, including Kongobuji, the spectacular head temple of Shingon Buddhism (entrance optional). We ll be back at our accommodation in time to relax in the hot bath and enjoy dinner together in the temple. Here is a beautiful website describing Koyasan. Decorative sushi Accommodation: Buddhist temple. Participants are free to attend morning prayers with fire ceremony in the temple s worship hall (6:30 a.m., before breakfast). Konpon Daita Pagoda in the Danjo Garan complex Monks taking lunch to Kobo Daishi Okunion Cemetery

Friday, November 2 In Koyasan Hike Women s Pilgrimage Route (~7 km with option to shorten).

the gates. Today we ll follow the women s walking route. Those women must have been tough because the route isn t easy! [Note there is an option for a shorter, less strenuous hike.

Bentendake Hiking along the Pilgrimage Route Saturday, November 3 A ryokan is a small, familyrun guest house with futons on the floor and shared baths and toilets.

8 Friday, November 2 In Koyasan Hike Women s Pilgrimage Route (~7 km with option to shorten). For many years, women were not allowed to enter the Koyasan temple complex and were only able to approach it by walking a mountainous route around the perimeter, or to worship in special temples near the gates. Today we ll follow the women s walking route. Those women must have been tough because the route isn t easy! [Note there is an option for a shorter, less strenuous hike.] Once back at our temple, relax in the hot bath before our dinner together in the temple. Accommodation: Buddhist temple. A Shinto shrine on Mt. Bentendake Hiking along the Pilgrimage Route Saturday, November 3 A ryokan is a small, familyrun guest house with futons on the floor and shared baths and toilets. Travel to the Nakasendo Way Kiso River Valley (Kisoji) From Koyasan to Osaka and onward. This morning (early yawn ) we ll have one final opportunity to experience the ritual fire ceremony at our temple before we bid farewell to the monks who have hosted us and make our way down from Koyasan. We ll head back to Osaka, where we board our bullet train to Nagoya. From there we transfer to Ena, a posttown in the Kiso River valley, where we can explore the town a bit before heading to our Japanese style ryokan. We ll need to grab our lunch on the way, but we ll have a nice relaxing dinner together in the ryokan. Accommodation: Ryokan in Ena.

Sunday, November 4 Travel from Ena to Magome (Kisoji) Visit Hiroshige Print Museum, explore Magome (walking distance varies) After breakfast and our goodbyes, we ll make one last stop in Ena before

During our visit, we ll have an opportunity to make our own woodblock prints.

Once settled in our ryokan in Magome, we ll head over to the Tourist Information office where those who wish can purchase a Nakasendo Traveler s Staff and have it branded for the first Nakasendo post

Hiroshige print depicting Kiso Fukushima control gate from The Sixty Nine Stations of the Kisokaido Historic information board in Magome Monday, November 5 Breakfast Remember: no luggage here!

9 Sunday, November 4 Travel from Ena to Magome (Kisoji) Visit Hiroshige Print Museum, explore Magome (walking distance varies) After breakfast and our goodbyes, we ll make one last stop in Ena before taking a short journey to Magome, the starting town of our Nakasendo walk. In Ena, we ll visit the Hiroshige Print Museum where we can see the works of this famous woodblock print artist. During our visit, we ll have an opportunity to make our own woodblock prints. We ll need to pack carefully before we leave Magome tomorrow morning, because tomorrow night we will not have our luggage with us. Once settled in our ryokan in Magome, we ll head over to the Tourist Information office where those who wish can purchase a Nakasendo Traveler s Staff and have it branded for the first Nakasendo post town in the Kisoji. Then we ll explore this amazing restored 18 th century town until returning to our ryokan for a relaxing hot bath and dinner together. Accommodation: Ryokan in Magome. Hiroshige print depicting Kiso Fukushima control gate from The Sixty Nine Stations of the Kisokaido Historic information board in Magome Monday, November 5 Breakfast Remember: no luggage here! Nakasendo Way (Kisoji) Walk Magome to Nagiso (~12 km). Today we ll send our luggage off to meet us in 2 days at Kiso Fukushima and we ll walk with whatever we need in our daypacks for the next two (2) days. Our walk today takes us from the restored post town of Magome over Magome Pass (810 meters) and through the beautiful original post town of Tsumago where we can appreciate the unique 18 th century architecture of these towns, explore some of the local businesses and get our Traveler s Staff branded. Then we ll head down the road to Nagiso, where we ll have dinner on our own in a local restaurant. Accommodation: Hostel* in Nagiso. * NOTE that in this accommodation only, we will sleep dormitory style in two large shared rooms. This accommodation has two (2) toilets, one (1) shower and one (1) bath, so we ll have to be patient as we take our turns. Ancient stone paths and forest trails on today s walk.

Tuesday, November 6 Breakfast, lunch and dinner Nakasendo Way (Kisoji) Walk Nagiso to Nojiri (~16 km). Travel to Kiso Fukushima.

Yogawa Way was built as a detour for this narrow section of the Kiso River which was often flooded.

Dinner together at our hotel. Accommodation: Hotel in Kiso Fukushima. A nice hotel with Japanese style rooms, an awesome bath and an amazing Manga library!

10 Tuesday, November 6 Breakfast, lunch and dinner Nakasendo Way (Kisoji) Walk Nagiso to Nojiri (~16 km). Travel to Kiso Fukushima. We ll need to get an early start today as we intend to walk over Yogawa Way, a forested mountain track that takes us up and over Nenoue Pass (1200 meters). Yogawa Way was built as a detour for this narrow section of the Kiso River which was often flooded. We ll have a picnic lunch (included) along the way before we drop down into the post town of Nojiri, where we can get our Traveler s Staff brands and then catch our train for Kiso Fukushima. Dinner together at our hotel. Accommodation: Hotel in Kiso Fukushima. A nice hotel with Japanese style rooms, an awesome bath and an amazing Manga library! Traveler s Staff with brands Wednesday, November 7 Participants may choose to take a rest day in Kiso Fukushima and just relax! In Kiso Fukushima Local day with options (walking/hiking distance or time varies w/option). Today there are several options for spending our day in the Kiso Fukushima area. Depending on the weather and seasonal closures, we may travel to the Mt. Ontake area and then take the Ropeway (tram) to near the top of this sacred mountain, where we can hike around. Or we may hike in the hills above Kiso Fukushima which should be bursting with fall colors. For those collecting brands on their Traveler s Staff, it s just a short train ride to the next wood branding post town (which we won t walk through). Kiso Fukushima is a large town with many interesting local sights to see, including the last extant Nakasendo checkpoint, sake brewery tour, or chopstick making experience. Lots of options for today! Dinner together at our hotel. Accommodation: Hotel in Kiso Fukushima. Mt. Ontake with Ropeway (weather/season permitting) Kiso Fukushima: lots of options!

Thursday, November 8 In Kiso Fukushima Visit other post towns with walk back (~10 km).

In Suhara we can visit a famous Buddhist temple complex before going to the next town, Agematsu.

In order to skip a boring road section, we ll go back to Kiso Fukushima by train in time for a relaxing bath and dinner together at our hotel. Accommodation: Hotel in Kiso Fukushima.

Nezame no Toko, a noted place of scenic beauty Friday, November 9 Breakfast Comb shop in Yabuhara We ll need to pack carefully before we leave Matsumoto tomorrow morning, because tomorrow night we

11 Thursday, November 8 In Kiso Fukushima Visit other post towns with walk back (~10 km). Today we ll travel backwards on the Nakasendo Way and visit a couple of posttowns that we passed by on the train yesterday. In Suhara we can visit a famous Buddhist temple complex before going to the next town, Agematsu. From here we ll walk back towards Kiso Fukushima, visiting some interesting sights along the way including Nezame no Toko, a noted place of scenic beauty, where we can enjoy lunch. In order to skip a boring road section, we ll go back to Kiso Fukushima by train in time for a relaxing bath and dinner together at our hotel. Accommodation: Hotel in Kiso Fukushima. Ordering lunch from a ticket vending machine is a uniquely Japanese experience! Nezame no Toko, a noted place of scenic beauty Friday, November 9 Breakfast Comb shop in Yabuhara We ll need to pack carefully before we leave Matsumoto tomorrow morning, because tomorrow night we will not have our luggage with us. Nakasendo Way (Kisoji) Travel to Yabuhara. Walk Yabuhara to Kiso Hirasawa (~13.5 km). Travel to Matsumoto. This morning we ll start out with a short train ride to the post town of Yabuhara, famous for Orokugushi combs. We ll drop by the town center and get our Staff brands before heading up and over Torii toge Pass (830 meters) and into the 18 th century post town of Narai, perhaps the best example of the unique architecture of these towns. We ll pause here for lunch and a good look around before continuing on our final segment of the Nakasendo in the Kiso River valley we ll walk to the village of Kiso Hirasawa, famous for its beautiful lacquer ware. A short walk past the village takes us to the branding station and an opportunity to see special items made in this region. From Kiso Hirasawa we ll hop a train to the city of Matsumoto, where we can get situated before having dinner on our own in Matsumoto. Accommodation: Hotel in Matsumoto. A Western style hotel in the center of town.

Saturday, November 10 A lovely hotel with Japanesestyle rooms at the end of town and very close to our walk tomorrow. Remember: no luggage here!

North to the Japan Alps region and our final Nakasendo walking segment. First, we ll visit famous Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan s premier historic castles and which dates from 1504.

) Karuizawa is a very interesting town with many local sights and shops to visit before getting settled into our hotel, relaxing in the bath, and having dinner together at our hotel.

12 Saturday, November 10 A lovely hotel with Japanesestyle rooms at the end of town and very close to our walk tomorrow. Remember: no luggage here! Travel to the Nakasendo Way Japan Alps region Travel to Karuizawa (walking distance/time varies in Matsumoto and Karuizawa) This morning we ll send our luggage off to meet us in Tokyo before heading North to the Japan Alps region and our final Nakasendo walking segment. First, we ll visit famous Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan s premier historic castles and which dates from Then we hop on the bullet train to Nagano where we transfer to our final segment into Karuizawa (lunch along the way or on board the train.) Karuizawa is a very interesting town with many local sights and shops to visit before getting settled into our hotel, relaxing in the bath, and having dinner together at our hotel. Matsumoto Castle Accommodation: Hotel in Karuizawa. Sunday, November 11 Nakasendo Way Japan Alps region Walk Karuizawa to Yokokawa (~16 km). Travel to Tokyo. Starting out bright and early, we ll head up the trail to Usui Pass (1200 meters) where we can stop and enjoy spectacular views to Mt. Asama and visit a Kumano shrine complex. Then it s a long track through forested mountain trails until we drop down to the road, where the final 5km is along an old railway into Yokokawa. Once there, we ll jump on a local train to Takasaki before boarding our last bullet train to Tokyo. We ll arrive in Tokyo in time to have a relaxing walk around our neighborhood, including a visit to Nihonbashi bridge and the zero km marker of the Nakasendo Way. Farewell dinner together at a local restaurant. Accommodation: Tokyo hotel. A modern, Western style hotel in the Chuo district of Tokyo. Within walking distance of the Tsujuki fish market and other sites. Kumano shrine on Usui Pass

13 Beautiful forested track on our walk today Along the abandoned railway What is this old school bus doing in the middle of the forest? How did it get here? Good bye, Nakasendo Monday, November 12 Breakfast Home or onward travel After breakfast together, we bid our farewells as we go home or onward. If you are taking an evening flight out of Tokyo, you can you can leave your luggage at the hotel and join Christine on a visit to Tsukiji Fish Market and other local sites. zero km marker in Tokyo Kris and Christine make their way home It s been an amazing trip!

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