Kyoto Culture & Kumano Kodo Trek

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1 November 14 28, 2018 Leader: Kris Ashton CMC member $4,625, Non Member $5,100 Kiyomizudera Temple, Kyoto Dear Fellow CMC Traveler: Thank you for your interest in the Adventure Travel trip Kyoto Culture & Kumano Kodo Trek. Please read the following trip description, itinerary and other information carefully before you consider participating in this trip. To apply for a place on the trip, please register online at by paying a $500 deposit, after which the leader will contact you and have you complete a Participant Application. Alternately, you may contact the trip leader to discuss the trip before registering. Complete the Application (including the signed AT Waiver and Cancellation Policy documents) and return them to the trip leader. Once accepted, pay the remaining balance by June 15, If you sign up for the trip after June 15, 2018 the entire amount is due at that time. The group will have a maximum of 12 persons including the leader. There will be an English speaking guide accompanying us on the Kumano Kodo trek. Accommodation is double occupancy in both Western style (beds, en suite toilet and bath) and Japanese style (futons on the floor, shared gendersegregated toilets and baths) rooms. Accommodation details are described in the itinerary. Sorry, there is no single occupancy option for this trip Kyoto Culture & KK Trek Welcome Letter 1/25/2018

2 The price of the trip is $4,625 for members and $5,100 for non members. What s included in the price: Kyoto: 4 nights, 3 full days, including: 4 nights' accommodation in a Western style hotel w/breakfast 2 dinners Guided half day walking tour, including Tofuku ji temple and Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine Guided evening walk in Gion area (see maiko/geiko) English speaking guides Visits to several temples, shrines and parks to view fall foliage includes Kinkaku ji (Golden Pavilion), Tennyruji (UNESCO site), Kiyomizudera and Nanzen ji, famous for fall foliage displays Visit to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest The Path of Philosophy walk All bus/subway/train travel within Kyoto Gift for guide(s) [tipping is not customary in Japan] What s not included in the price: Suggested travel and travel/medical insurance RT airfare to/from Osaka; ~$1600 Ground transportation from Osaka airport to Kyoto; ~$30 Beverages aside from tea served with meals Pharmacy/medical costs Optional components of temple/shrine visits Bus/subway/train within Kyoto when on your own Activities within Kyoto when on your own Souvenirs, gifts, etc. 6 lunches, 2 dinners Alternative transportation (bus, taxi, etc.) on Kumano trek (if you take it) Ground transportation from Osaka hotel to airport; ~$10 Train transportation from Kyoto to Tanabe (1/2 day) Tanabe: 2 nights, 1.5 full days, including: English speaking guide 2 nights' accommodation in a Western style hotel w/breakfast 2 dinners, including one Izakaya experience (traditional Japanese pub) Guided walking tour of Tanabe with lunch Organic garden tour with lunch in the garden (transport by private bus) Ume factory tour (Ume is a local fruit from which many products are made) Gift for guide(s) Bus transportation from Tanabe to Takijiri (start of Kumano Kodo trek) Kumano Kudo trek: 7 nights, 8 days, including: English speaking guide 7 nights' accommodation in Japanese style inns or guest houses w/most meals 6 day trek on Kumano Kodo; visiting Kumano Sanzen (3 grand shrines) Traditional Boat Tour to Shingu and visit of Shingu All local transportation within the Kumano Kodo area Luggage transfer on the trek Gifts for guide and hosts Train transportation from Katsuura (end of Kumano Kodo) to Osaka (1/2 day) Osaka: 1/2 day, 1 night, including: 1 night's accommodation in Western style hotel in Osaka 1 farewell dinner

3 The trip begins in Kyoto, Japan and ends in Osaka, Japan. Participants will fly into and out of Osaka (recommend Kansai International Airport KIX) as there is no airport in Kyoto (or arrive in Kyoto from another location within Japan). You will need to arrive in Kyoto on or before November 14, A visa is NOT necessary for US passport holders visiting Japan for a short term stay of less than 90 days and for the purpose of tourism or business. Prerequisites for the trip are a good attitude, tolerance, and excellent physical conditioning as we will be walking 3 4 miles/day in Kyoto and doing C level hikes over a variety of terrains and elevations on the Kumano Kodo trek. The Kumano Kodo passes through dense forest and mountainous trails that could include dirt paths, exposed rocks, tree roots and stone steps. Shrines and temples are often located at the top of a hill, so there could be many steps up to the shrine. Do not be misled by the distances indicated on the itinerary the terrain is mountainous and difficult. Hikes will be between 3 13 miles (there are 2 short segments and 4 long segments). You should plan to bring a daypack that will carry equipment comparable to what you would bring on a typical day hike in the Pacific Northwest during the autumn months (meaning it could be quite rainy). In addition to your day pack, you are allowed one piece of luggage (carry on size, as you will be carrying it on/off trains, subway, buses, and along sidewalks). Any bag larger than carry on size will not be transported on the Kumano Kodo trek section of the trip. Nothing can be attached to the outside of the bag. NOTE: there is one night on the Kumano Kodo trek section where we will not have access to our luggage, so participants will need to have everything they need for that night in their daypack. Attendance at the pre trip planning meeting is mandatory, as there will be much to discuss. Location will be the CMC office in Golden, and you will receive ample notice of the date and time. If you are unable to attend the meeting in person, we can set up a virtual meeting link for you. Topics will include suggested equipment, packing, training, cultural notes, and security precautions. A selection of maps, handouts and guidebooks will be available for your review. At least one pre trip hike will be arranged. Attendance at pre trip hikes is not required but is highly recommended. Please let me know what questions you may have I am at your disposal! Kris Ashton kris@aimhigh.net Kris enjoying dinner at a Japanese style inn

4 Kyoto Culture & Kumano Kodo Trek, November 14-28, 2018 Autumn is an amazing time to be in Japan! The fall foliage in Japan is said to be as good as, or even better than, the foliage of the Northeastern United States. Our trip is timed to visit key locations at the height of the fall foliage displays, in both Kyoto and along the Kumano Kodo. Kyoto, formerly the Imperial capital of Japan for more than one thousand years (from ), is one of the world s most culturally rich cities scattered with hundreds, if not thousands, of pockets of amazing beauty. Kyoto has 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites (the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto ), 1600 Buddhist temples and over 400 Shinto shrines. There are 24 museums, amazing gardens and palaces including the Imperial Palace, the former ruling palace of the Emperor of Japan before Kyoto is one of the most beautiful and best preserved cities in Japan. We will spend three full days exploring a variety of temples, shrines and neighborhoods of Kyoto. Along the way, we re sure to sample some interesting foods and beverages! From Kyoto we ll make our way by train to the coastal city of Tanabe, which we ll explore before heading into the mountains and our Kumano Kodo trek. The Kumano Kodo is a series of ancient pilgrimage routes that crisscross through the dense forests and mountains of the Kii Peninsula of Japan. The ancient pilgrimage is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes in the world, the other being the Camino de Santiago in Spain. In 2015, the two routes were designated as Dual Pilgrimage Routes and pilgrims who walk both routes are recognized as Dual Pilgrims. We will experience authentic rural Japan as we follow in the footsteps of 11 th century imperial pilgrims to the sacred site Kumano Sanzan [the three Grand Shrines of Kumano: Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha]. The Kumano Sanzan shrines are also UNESCO World Heritage sites; the shrines and the pilgrimage route are collectively known as the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range." We ll follow the UNESCO registered section, the Nakahechi route, for six days of varied walking along village paths and forested mountains trails. We ll visit mountain top villages, soothing hot springs, sacred shrines and temples before we finish our trek at Katsuura on the coast. Along the way we ll take a traditional boat tour down the UNESCO World Heritage Kumano River to Shingu. Each night we ll stay in local traditional minshuku or ryokan where we ll be welcomed as one of the family and where we ll experience impeccable service, beautiful rooms, delicious food and hot baths, of course!

5 Accommodation Along the Kumano Kodo trek, we ll stay in Japanese style accommodations. Whether it s a family run ryokan or minshuku (Japanese inn or guest house), they all have three things in common: the futon beds, the hot bath, and the food. Japanese style room with futons Futons are like mattresses that are placed on the floor for sleeping. The futons may be set out in the room when we arrive, or there may be a small, low table in the center of the room with cushions for seating. In some accommodations, while guests are enjoying dinner, the staff may come and lay out the futons. Kimono robes (called yukata; generally with jackets), house slippers, towels, toothbrush and toiletries are provided. Japanese bath The baths in the accommodation are always gender segregated, but may be shared with several guests at a time (depending on the size of the bath). Guests first shower thoroughly using the hand showers and then slide into the hot water to relax. Clothing, swim suits or towels are not allowed in the soaking tubs. Typical Japanese meal Japanese meals consist of many small dishes of a wide variety of things, including vegetables, tofu, fish, meat and/or rice. Tea is always served with meals. The meal might be placed on the table all at once or be served in courses. At dinner there is generally a hot pot with all sorts of goodies cooking in it. Vegetarian meals are available. (Sorry, there is no gluten free option.)

6 Itinerary Arrival in Kyoto, Japan [Take the limousine bus or Haruka Airport Express train from KIX to Kyoto Station] Wednesday November 14 Welcome drinks and snacks Group welcome meeting in the evening. This evening we ll congregate in the hotel lounge area for a welcome drink and some snacks while we review the exciting itinerary we have planned. Those who are not too tired after their long journey may want to get dinner together (not included) or explore the nearby neighborhood. Optional dinner together at a local restaurant. Accommodation: Hotel in Kyoto near Kyoto Station. Western style rooms with private bath & toilet. Getting to Kyoto from KIX airport in Osaka Illuminated, animated steps at Kyoto Station

7 Thursday November 15 Breakfast and dinner In Kyoto [morning walk ~4 hours; evening walk 2+ hours] Our local guide will meet us in the morning, and we ll have a half day visit to Tofuku ji temple and Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine, using a mixture of public transport and walking. Lunch on your own. Free afternoon to explore Kyoto. In the evening we ll have a guided walk of the Gion district, where, if we re lucky, we ll catch a glimpse of an elusive geiko or maiko headed toward her evening appointment. At the end of our Gion visit we ll head up to Kodai ji Temple to enjoy the evening illuminated fall foliage. Dinner together at a local restaurant or noodle shop. Accommodation: Hotel in Kyoto. Western style rooms with private bath & toilet. Torii gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine Garden at Tufuku ji temple Evening illumination at Kodai ji temple

8 Friday November 16 Breakfast In Kyoto [morning walk up to 4 hours] Today we ll head out on our own for walking visits of the Kinkaku ji temple (Golden Pavilion) and the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest area with an optional visit to Tennyru ji temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We ll travel there and back by public transport. Lunch on your own. Free afternoon to continue exploring this area or other sites in Kyoto. Dinner on your own. Accommodation: Hotel in Kyoto. Western style rooms with private bath & toilet. Beautiful kimonos Kinkaku ji temple (Golden Pavilion) Arashiyama Bamboo Forest Friday November 17 Breakfast and dinner In Kyoto [morning walk up to 5 hours] This morning we ll once again head out on our own (using public transport) for a visit of Kiyomizudera Temple, one of the most spectacular places in Kyoto for viewing fall foliage. From there we ll walk to Nanzen ji temple with more great views, historic gardens and structures. From there we ll head up through the neighborhood to the Path of Philosophy. Lunch on your own. Free afternoon to continue exploring Kyoto. Possibly shop for any last minute items needed for our upcoming trek. We ll meet up a bit later for a unique dining experience together in the evening. Accommodation: Hotel in Kyoto. Western style rooms with private bath & toilet.

9 Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto Sunday November 18 Breakfast, lunch and dinner Train Kyoto to Tanabe [afternoon walk up to 3 hours] This morning we will travel by train via Osaka to the coastal town of Tanabe on the Kii Peninsula. Our train will hug the coastline until we reach Tanabe, where we will meet our English speaking guide, visit the Kumano Kodo Tourist Center, have lunch together and enjoy a walking tour of Tanabe. Our guide will accompany us for the duration of the Kumano Kodo trek. Dinner together: this evening we ll enjoy an Izakaya (traditional Japanese pub) dining experience in the Ajikouji entertainment district. Accommodation: Hotel in Tanabe. Western style rooms with private bath & toilet. Ancient Kumano Kodo trail marker Ajikouji entertainment district in Tanabe

10 Monday November 19 Breakfast, lunch and dinner In Tanabe Today we ll travel by private bus to visit Akitsuno Garden, previously a school that has been converted into a Green Tourism center. We ll enjoy lunch together in the garden before continuing on to Nakata Ume Factory, where we can visit the factory and sample some of the locally produced ume products (ume is a fruit similar to apricot) the liqueur is quite famous! Dinner together at a local restaurant. Accommodation: Hotel in Tanabe. Western style rooms with private bath & toilet. Tuesday November 20 Breakfast, lunch and dinner Bus Tanabe to Takijiri-Oji 1 From Tanabe we ll travel by bus to Takijiri, where we ll visit the Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center and enjoy our packed lunch together before beginning our walk on the Kumano pilgrimage route. Kumano Kodo Trek Kumano was said to be the entrance to the land of Yomi, the other world' to which spirits traveled in Japanese mythology. Walk 2 Takijiri Oji to Takahara (~3.7km; ~2.7 hrs) From the start at Takijiri Oji, the path climbs steeply up to the ridge top village of Takahara. Dinner together at the ryokan. Accommodation: Ryokan 3 in Takahara. A welcoming ryokan that offers spectacular views over the valley and mountains beyond and wonderful organically grown local food. Japanese style rooms with shared bath & private toilet. Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center A typical oji shrine along the way 1 An oji is a small shrine. 2 Do not be misled by the distance/time. The terrain is mountainous and difficult. 3 A ryokan is a Japanese style inn or guest house; a minshuku is like a bed & breakfast.

11 Wednesday November 21 Breakfast, lunch and dinner Walk Takahara to Nonaka (~13.5km; ~6.5 hrs) Today s undulating walk through gorgeous rural scenery passes several oji shrines before descending to the small villages of Chikatsuyu and Nonaka. Picnic lunch along the way. Dinner together at the minshuku. Accommodation: Minshuku in Chikatsuyu. A beautiful family run guesthouse alongside a lovely river. Japanese style rooms with shared bath & toilet. Along the trail Thursday November 22 Breakfast, lunch and dinner Walk Nonaka to Hongu Taisha 4 /Yunomine Onsen (~21km; ~8 hrs) Today s walk is tough but well worth the effort! An initial climb takes us up through the mountains to Mikoshi touge (pass). From here the path levels off slightly before reaching the grand shrine Kumano Hongu Taisha at the heart of the sacred Kii mountains. From the shrine, we ll take a bus to Yunomine Onsen, one of the oldest natural hot spring (onsen) villages in Japan. Picnic lunch along the way. Dinner together at the ryokan famous local beef, wild boar or seafood. Accommodation: Ryokan in Yunomine Onsen. A gorgeous inn situated on the ridge above the village. Japanese style rooms with shared bath & private toilet. Oyunohara the largest torii gate in Japan Prayer flags at Kumano Hongu Taisha 4 A taisha is a grand shrine. We will visit three grand shrines that comprise the Kumano Sanzen: Hongu, Hayatama and Nachi.

12 Friday November 23 Breakfast and dinner In Yunomine Onsen Traditional Boat Tour to Hayatama Taisha/Shingu The Kumano gawa River was a vital section of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route between Kumano Hongu Taisha in Hongu, and Kumano Hayatama Taisha in Shingu. We ll make the journey in traditional wooden flat bottom boats as pilgrims have been doing for centuries. Once in Shingu, we ll visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Gotobiki iwa temple before catching our bus back to Yunomine. Lunch on your own in Shingu. Dinner together at the ryokan. Accommodation: Ryokan in Yunomine Onsen. Japanese style rooms with shared bath & private toilet. Traditional boat tour Grand hall of Hayatama Taisha Saturday November 24 Breakfast, lunch and dinner We ll need to pack carefully before leaving Koguchi tomorrow morning as we will not have our luggage with us tomorrow night. Walk Yunomine Onsen to Koguchi (~13km; ~5.5 hours) Today we ll take a short bus ride to Ukegawa, where we ll start our walk to the small village of Koguchi. A warm welcome and good food await us at our minshuku, where there will be time for lazing by the river or soaking in the bath. Picnic lunch along the way. Dinner together at the minshuku. Accommodation: Minshuku in Koguchi. A former school that was beautifully renovated into a lodge. Japanese style rooms with shared bath & toilet. Steps along the trail

13 Sunday November 25 Breakfast, lunch and dinner Remember: no luggage! Walk Koguchi to Nachisan/Nachi Taisha (~14.5km; ~8 9 hours) The final and perhaps most challenging section of the Kumano Kodo trail takes us up and over the Ogumotori goe Pass, where we should catch a glimpse of the Pacific Ocean far below. It then descends to Nachisan, the location of Kumano Nachi Taisha, the Seiganto ji temple and Nachi otaki waterfall Japan s highest. Picnic lunch along the way. Dinner together at the minshuku. Accommodation: Minshuku in Nachisan. A beautiful lodge in the mountains with views of the Nachi waterfall. The owner is a chef! Japanese style rooms with shared bath &toilet. Seiganto0ji temple and Nachi otaki falls One of hundreds of oji shrines along the way Monday November 26 Breakfast and dinner Walk Nachisan to Daimon-zaka, bus to Kii Katsuura (~1 hour) Today we have a final short walk of about one hour from Nachisan down the Diamon zaka route to the highway, where we ll grab a local bus to Kii Katsuura on the coast. If we re lucky, we may encounter other pilgrims dressed in traditional garb walking up this steep route. Lunch on your own in Katsuura. Free afternoon to explore Katsuura. Dinner together at the minshuku. Accommodation: Minshuku in Kii Katsuura. A new facility, run by the family of the oldest guesthouse in Katsuura, with an atmosphere of oldfashioned rural hospitality. Japanese style rooms with private bath & toilet. Street vendor selling oranges in Kii Katsuura Traditionally dressed pilgrim on Diamon zaka

14 Tuesday November 27 Breakfast and dinner Train Katsuura to Osaka We ll grab the first morning train for our 4 hour ride to Osaka. In Osaka we ll have the afternoon free to explore as we wish. We ll enjoy a final celebratory dinner together before heading off to bed before our departure for home the next morning. Lunch on your own in Osaka. Free afternoon to explore Osaka. Dinner together at a local restaurant. Accommodation: Hotel in the energetic Dotonbori neighborhood of Osaka. Western style rooms with private bath & toilet. Vibrant Osaka Wednesday November 28 Breakfast Home or onward travel After breakfast together at our hotel, we bid our farewells as we head home or onward to our next destination. Buddha at Nachi Taisha It s been an amazing trip!