MEETand. EaT. dine and wine guide. summer FREE

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1 MEETand increte dine and wine guide 2013 summer FREE

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3 letter theeditor from There s more to Cretan Cuisine than Meets the Eye I ve long held the belief that quite often food is a fundamental, underlying force that gives people an identity; the point of entry into the core of a country s culture, and by the same token, for an increasing number of visitors, a country s cuisine is the primary reason for choosing a destination. Eating WHAT the locals eat and WHERE they eat is a great way to scratch below the surface of a country to understand its history and to become a part of its community. Always celebrated as a tourist destination for beaches and antiquities, this treasure trove of wild foods and deeply rooted cooking traditions, is becoming a foodie hotspot, which could rival many of the European capitals in the gourmet game. But finding those great meals and artisinal food products is not always an easy task, which is why Meet and Eat in Crete was created to help you break away from the tourist trail and get off the BEATEN track. And to help you find your perfect restaurant or tavern no matter where you are, DOWNLOAD our new APP for iphone and Android (See back page for details.) There is so much that is special about the foods and wines of Crete and what s more, many of these culinary delicacies (still largely undiscovered to non-locals) can ONLY be had from here. So get out there into the halcyon summer air and enjoy Crete s gastronomic sensations there are plenty of them awaiting you. And once back at home, be sure and tell us about your experiences on our website at MEETand increte Since 2OO7 Meet & Eat in Crete is published 2x/year by Lizard Publishing & Marketing Ano Arhanes, Heraklion, Crete Main Tel: In Chania: info@meetandeatguides.com Publishing Partner & Managing Editor Agnes R. Weninger Publishing Partner in Chania Krisztina Csedrik Art & Photo Editor Ildiko Petrok Cover Photograph istockphotos Printed in Crete by Typokreta, Heraklion All rights reserved. Reproduction is prohibited unless written permission is obtained. All prices and facts are correct at time of going to press. The Grapevine, page 8 Story of Spring Onions, page 20 CONTENTS Letter from the Editor 4 Useful Information 6 The Grapevine 8 Prefecture of Heraklion 10 Story of Spring Onions 20 Prefecture of Chania 22 Prefecture of Rethymno 30 Raw Ingredients 38 Prefecture of Lassithi 40 Agnes Weninger - Managing Editor Follow us on FaceBook 4. letter from the editor contents 5.

4 useful information legend Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. Restaurant listings are by prefecture, alphabetically. 10 or less Outdoor dining Seaside dining Live music GENERAL Ambulance 166 Fire 199 Coastguard 108 Roadside assistance 104 Weather 149 Tourist Police-Heraklion Tourist Police-Chania , Tourist Police-Rethymno , Tourist Police Ag.Nikolaos TRAVEL Ship, plane timetables 1440 Public Bus K.T.E.L Heraklion Airport , Chania Airport , Sitia Airport , Port of Heraklion , Port of Chania , Port of Rethymno Port of Agios Nikolaos , Heraklion Radio Taxi , , Chania Radio Taxi , 98770, Rethymno Radio Taxi , 24316, Ag. Nikolaos Radio Taxi , Parasies page 11 Veneto page 25 Ergospasio page useful information

5 Wine Recommendations THINK PINK Lyrarakis Idyll Rosé (Kotsifali-Syrah) Alagni, Heraklion This multi-medal award winner has an intense rose colour with violet reflections and a full, balanced yet delicate flavor that is fruity and dry with crisp acidity. Douloufakis Enotria Rosé (Kotsifali-Syrah) Dafnes, Heraklion This organic wine has had some oak barrel aging. It has a light rose hue with orange accents. Berryish fruit on the palate with a round, soft pleasureable finish. Silva-Daskalaki Psithiros (Liatiko-Syrah-Cab Sauv) This organic rosé of transparent rose color exhibits red fruit aroma and offers a fresh lively mouth feel and long finish. Great with cheeses, appetizers and poultry. I am happy to report that the trends show that the once beleaguered and belittled rosé is happily making a comeback in Europe and most definitely in Crete. This growing demand has encouraged wine producers to think pink, and as a result, variety, quality and year-round availability have improved tremendously. The style of a rosé depends largely on the grape variety, but whether you choose your rosé by region, grape variety or because you like the label; chances are your wine won t win prizes for sophistication. Having said that, few wine lovers would disagree that one of life s greatest pleasures is sitting on a seaside terrace on a hot summer day drinking a refreshing glass of chilled rosé. A rosé needs to provide vibrant, fresh, fragrant and fruity natural flavors to be successful for summer sipping. Cretan rosés are primarily made from the local grape varieties of Kotsifali, with some Mandilari as well as perhaps Syrah to give it more weight and a more savoury side. A straight Kotsifali rosé is similar to the one made from Grenache; light, fruity and dry with crisp acidity. If and when you add the more tannic Mandilari, you give it a stronger minerality, which is more complementary with certain foods. Since rosés are style-wise in the middle between whites and reds, for everyday drinking they can generally accompany a wider range of foods. 8. the grapevine the grapevine 9.

6 PARASIES (former Petrou & Pavlou) Sofokles Venizelou 19 (Historical Museum Square) Tel: prefecture of heraklion

7 MEETand inheraklion Heraklion restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less Heraklion restaurant Listings outdoor dining seaside dining live music MEETand inheraklion Agora (See pg. 3) Market St. Heraklion Tel: After a spirited stroll along the market street in centertown heraklion, take a break for some meze treats at agora (the greek word for market). The menu heralds a plethora of small dishes, just perfect for an afternoon of grazing après shopping. Try one of the more inventive ones like veal cooked in parchment with pine nuts and sour cheese or the traditional cretan pasta with chicken, tomato & graviera cheese. Evgoro in Cretan dialect means great view and this is what you get from this tradtional tavern high up in the quaint village of Katalagari (outside Arhanes). Experience the tranquil vineyards and olive groves with the sea in the distance. This is a family-run establishment with son Vassilis at the helm. Olive oil, chicken, eggs and some veggies are their own and the bread is baked fresh daily in-house. The service is super friendly. Evgoro Village of Katalaghari Tel: Alfredo G. Gennimata, Heraklion Tel: Bakaliko Crete (See pg. 2) Main Square Arhanes Tel: Dish (See pg. 3) Agios Titos Square, Heraklion Tel: Earino Kato Asites Tel: Olive Tavern at Eleonas (See pg 21) Zaros Tel: This authentic Italian eatery has been around over 20 years, which in anyone s books is a real testament to its consistent quality and value. You will find all your favorites from real Buffalo Mozarella to fresh & dried pastas (45 in all), veal and 30 kinds of pizza from the wood oven. Big porch for al fresco neighborhood dining. This modern new concept deli just opened on the main square of the popular village of Arhanes. Owned by two Hungarian women restaurateurs who have lived in Crete many years, their philosophy is to sell fine quality Cretan & Greek food products and serve innovative, light meals all day using the products of the store. Try any of the sandwiches, salads or desserts as they are all very original and progressive. The sophisticated, refined menu of mostly Mediterranean cuisine is done well. There are freshly made pastas with unique sauces such as Tagliolini with peppers, sun-dried tomatoes and smoked ham. For splurging, try the Veal with Foie Gras. A variety of good salads are perfect for ladies who lunch and many wines available by the glass. At night it is a trendy bar. Just outside the village of Kato Asites in the foothills of Mt. Psiloritis, Earino is a traditional stone-built tavern with fabulous views to the Malevyzi valley below and the sea in the distance. This is pure tranquility. Homemade breads & rusks and top notch lamb from the wood oven are just a few things that stand out. Friendly and efficient service. Well worth the jaunt from Heraklion. This traditional tavern is part of an agrotourism complex located not far above the lake of Zaros. Dining here is an all-round experience with summer dining on a cool terrace surrounded by lush vegetation. This is traditional Cretan cuisine at its best- using pure, local products,(many of which are their own), in timeless, simple recipes executed with care. Anything from the wood oven is a must-have, as well as local cheeses and greens. Savor the city of Heraklion and the sea below you on the roof garden of the Lato Hotel. As befits its name, fresh herbs are of paramount importance and can be found accenting and enhancing all the dishes. Cretan tastes are transfored into worldly creations by Chef Petros Kosmadakis. The easy summertime dining also includes meats and seafood on the grill. Attentive service and carefully selected wine list. An idyllic seaside location and soothing nautical colors makes this contemporary-chic party restaurant a summer favorite. An interesting selection of Mediterranean-inspired, creative dishes on offer, with a slant toward fish/seafood. Try the tuna carpaccio with lime-orange zest, aged vinegar and wasabi or any of the pastas & risottos with seafood or the sesame-coated tuna steak served perfectly pink. Also great for snacks during beach hours and cocktails at night. This little gem of a taverna belongs to the local Sailing Club. It is straightforward and resolutely fishy, due to its prime location at the edge of the harbor. Don t miss the freshest of fish simply yet artfully grilled. They even do Gavros (anchovies) on the grill, which nobody else does. Also good are the lachanodolmades (stuffed cabbage). Very drinkable white house wine and good jazzy background music. This attractive restaurant, called Garden of Tastes, is housed in one of the many renovated Neo Classical gems along this street. The garden is an oasis of calm in bustling Heraklion. Main courses abound with many interesting pork tenderloin dishes, as well as salmon with champagne sauce and a good ribeye steak. Don t miss out on desserts! In this well-loved city-center eatery a stone s throw from the sea, the young Chef/Owner creates some compelling dishes with the supreme taste of slowlycooked foods in an ironstone wood oven. Among the many memorable items is a tart of artichokes, saffron risotto with mushrooms, a pork shank cooked for 7 hours and a superb Black Angus steak. The wine list has the best local producers. Herbs Garden (See pg. 7) Epimenidou 15, Heraklion Tel: Isla by the Sea (See pg. 3) Gouves Marina Tel: Istioploikos Heraklion Harbour, Heraklion, Tel: Kipos ton Gefseon Chrysostomou 8, Heraklion Tel: Kouzinerie, L. Marinelli 11, Heraklion Tel: heraklion restaurant listings heraklion restaurant listings 13.

8 Visit the top winery of Crete and taste unique, high quality wines from varieties you have never heard of before! LYRARAKIS Complement the wines with traditional Cretan foods for a full gastronomic experience. (by appointment only) Open daily from 10:00-16:00 or by appointment Tel: visit@lyrarakis.com

9 MEETand inheraklion Heraklion restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less Heraklion restaurant Listings outdoor dining seaside dining live music MEETand inheraklion Kritamon Ano Arhanes Tel: A quaint garden setting in a lovingly restored house on a cobblestone street behind the main square. The very talented Chef/ Owner named it after the wild seaside herb known commonly as Samphire or Sea Fennel. Local, mostly organic raw materials and the revival of forgotten tastes are of paramount importance in his wonderful compilations. Salads are to die for! This certified Cretan cuisine tavern is one of a handful in the delightful main square of this village. Attention to detail is noticeable everywhere, but the real treat is the owner himself, who epitomizes the real filoxenia (hospitality) that use to pervade the island. The extensive menu may be overwhelming, so succumb to his suggestions. All the products are local, fresh and top quality. Lithos Main Square, Mohos Tel: Kritiki Yi Skalani Tel: Kymata Beach Rd. Hersonissos Tel: Ladokolla Marinelli 13, Heraklion Tel: Ligo Krasi Ligo Thalasa Marinelli & Mitsotakis Tel: (See pg. 21) Limni Lake Votomos Zaros Tel: Yet another great place in the village of Skalani! This is first and foremost a family establishment, with Mom overseeing the kitchen. The mega-sized grilled burger is stuffed with lots of fresh feta and sun-dried tomatoes. There are daily specials like a wonderfully aromatic rabbit stifado or slow-roasted pork. Dining is outside on a large terrace in this peaceful village. Sophisticated waterfront dining with a compelling menu that marries quality Cretan products with innovative Mediterranean cuisine plus the added bonus of Sushi & Sashimi. Try the slowly roasted gilthead seabream filet roll with champagne sauce and essence of lemongrass or one of the Black Angus steaks. Daily Greek dishes round out the offerings. This well-loved restaurant has moved to a new, larger location, but kept its charm and its whimsically creative touches. On any given day there are at least 7-8 fresh fish plus many items you really don't find anywhere else, like wild Ray filet, smoked & grilled Mackerel, Herring dip and Tope Shark. Look for seasonal shellfish and year-round enjoy pastas and risottos with seafood. Splendid location and consistently good food keeps this landmark fish tavern full day and night. Commanding a superb spot across from the entrance to the Venetian Harbor and Fortress, it is a great place to see and be seen. All the comforting favorites can be found, with top quality ingredients. Their signature dish- heaping bowls of pasta with shrimp, mussels and baby squid can be seen going to 95% of the tables. An excursion to the tranquil Votomos Lake at Zaros is definitely a must. After enjoying the flora and fauna, stop in to Taverna Limni for a relaxing lakeside meal beneath the old plane trees. The specialty at Lake Votomos of course is TROUT and the menu at Limni does it justice. For a starter, try the Trout Carpaccio or a green salad with smoked trout. The mains include trout roasted with feta and vegetables or an exciting pasta with both fresh & smoked trout, feta, basil & tomato. The ambiance evokes the East but never in a "tacky, Chinese restaurant" kind of way. Rather it is a clean, modern environment, serving upscale gourmet Asian food. The extensive menu, authentically prepared by Thai cooks, makes choosing somewhat difficult, but whatever you decide upon, you can be assured of excellent quality and artfully presented plates with carved vegetable garnishes. Service is professional and helpful. This casual eatery on the Heraklion casual dining scene, meaning "General Store of Tastes", is really partly a store, where you can buy home-made items and retro food and beverage products. There are some unusual starters, cooked foods and daily specials and often they try something new from other countries like a Portugese-style Cod. All the fab desserts such as chocolate baklava are made on the premises. The décor of this eatery is warm and inviting, with beige predominating and light and dark wood interspersed with stone. The floor-to-ceiling windows open completely, so even inside you feel the outside. Excellent quality products are used to create admirable classic Italian starters and pastas. The salads and Secondi Piatti are even more adventuresome and the house white from Silva-Daskalaki is an inspired choice. This is the new improved Parasies, which has been a longtime favorite on this square. Go for the MEAT, which is top quality. Try the succulent Beef Filet Parasies for 2 with staka cheese/herbs or one of the traditional dishes such as Gammopilafo (lamb & risotto). The vegetables are organic and the salads inventive. Leave room for the home-made Loukoumades (like doughnut holes.) This small, chic and cosmopolitan restaurant has been serving up progressive Mediterranean cuisine for years now. The menu is relatively small, but changes frequently so there is always something new to discover. In the summer they do a heavenly flambéed salmon with grapes. Leave room for the divine Tiramisu! Pan Asia Main Rd Kokkini Hani Tel: Pantopoleion Gefseon Ethniki Antistaseos 72 Heraklion Tel: Pepe Nero Handakos 63 Heraklion Tel: Parasies (See pg. 11) Sofokles Venizelou 19 Heraklion, Tel: Prassein Aloga Handakos & Kydonias 21 Heraklion, Tel: heraklion restaurant listings heraklion restaurant listings 17.

10 nd MEETa in her aklio Heraklion restaurant Listings n Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less Thalasses Iraklitou & Irodotou Heraklion Tel: Sillogi (See pg. 19) Street Heraklion Square, Tel: Stefanis Village of Krasi Tel: Stousgioustous Fodele Village Tel: Swell (See pg. 15) Kokkini Hani Tel: Xatzis Kokkini Hani Tel: This comfortably hip fish & seafood restaurant is undoubtedly the best of its kind in Heraklion. Casual summertime dining is in the sweet city park that surrounds the restaurant. The artfully presented, always fresh fish, lobster and seafood offerings are the main attraction. The only decent fresh Sushi in town every Wednesday and Thursday and by far the best selection of quality Cretan and Greek white wines. This brand new combination grocery and restaurant is a great addition to the bustling 1866 market street. With Sillogi, you get the chance to purchase premium products from all over Greece and have a bite to eat at the same time so you can see what ingenious ways they have used the products of the store in their menu items. In addition to all the goods on the shelves, they have their own traditional Cretan product line. On hot summer days, the inviting pergola-covered porch offers a cool respite. Or go for mountain views on the roof garden. This is down-home, honest, traditional fare at its best. Order whatever comes from the wood oven, be it lamb, piglet or chicken. The house salad is resplendent with wild, bitter mountain greens, desserts are inventive and delicious and house wines are very drinkable. This tavern, translated as to their sons on the road to the El Greco Museum is rustic and homey with a huge porch on the edge of a refreshing creek. The menu includes items from all parts of the island with inventive touches such as Stifado (onion-wine ragout) of lamb s liver or of snails or a silky leek & mushroom pie. The food is genuine, hearty and tasty and great value for money. Swell Restaurant is what superb dining is all about. Refined, casually elegant décor with solicitous, professional, friendly service and foods with a myriad of flavors assaulting your taste buds simultaneously. Michelin star Chef Lefteri Lazarou is the genius behind the menu where Fish and Seafood are de rigeur, but everything is enticing, so fresh and utterly sublime. The wine list has been carefully selected with particular attention and promotion of Cretan wines. A spiffy, stylish restaurant that has livened up the otherwise dull dining scene in Kokkini Hani. Modern open space that is bright, airy and cheerful with good quality, comfortable white-washed furniture and a play area to keep the kids occupied. Definitely come for the Argentine BBQ and top quality T-bone & Rib Eye steaks, which have been properly aged and served to perfection. h e r a k l i o n r e s ta u r a n t l i s t i n g s

11 story of spring Onions THE NEXT TIME YOU ARE IN ZAROS Limni Tavern at Lake Votomos Spring onions, also known as green onions or scallions, are the small immature plant of lily (allium) family root vegetables such as onions and shallots. Precisely speaking, the term spring onion denotes the bulb, including the top greens. In general, spring onions are young immature plants harvested very early before the plant grows and the bulb becomes larger. The roots have a thin, paper-white skin with moist flesh that is crisp, savory and sweet. Generally speaking, they are used in recipes whenever you want the subtle flavor of onions but at the same time, want to avoid the strong pungent flavor. In Cretan cuisine, most often it is used raw in lettuce salads to add taste along with the dill and it is also an integral ingredient in the most of the pies with greens. FUN FACTS» Very low in calories: 100g of fresh leaves is only 31 calories.» They contain many noteworthy flavanoid anti-oxidants which are helpful against heart disease.» They are one of the richest sources of Vitamin-K. 100 g of fresh green onions provides about 172% of the daily recommended intake of this vitamin. Vitamin K has a role in bone health by promoting bone formation and strengthening activity. Limni Tavern T: info@zaroslake.gr Olive Tavern at Eleonas Agrotourism Resort 20. story of Spring Onions Olive Tavern T: /39 info@eleonas.gr

12 22. prefecture of chania

13 The Corina Restaurant is here to captivate you with its tastes. Pure local products, virgin olive oil, fresh meat and fish are offered daily. Our extensive wine cellar will satisfy every taste. Corina - the charm of being different. Salaminos 13 (Old town Rethymno), Crete - Greece / Tel: , Fax: karavasilis@corina.gr

14 MEETand inchania chania restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less outdoor dining seaside dining live music chania restaurant Listings MEETand inchania Apostoli Akti Enoseos 6 and 10 Chania Tel: Antigoni Akti Enoseos & Defkalionos Chania Tel: Argentina Kolymbari Tel: Bossa Nova Gerani Tel: Don Rosario Platani Souda Tel: Jay Jay s Steak House Agia Marina Tel: A long-time fish tavern in the Old Port of Chania or maybe two! Owner Apostolis opened his first tavern in 1978 a few meters down the road from the current location. Ever since, the very popular tavern today has 2 different locations a few meters away from one another. Fresh seafood and traditional Cretan dishes are their specialties. Enjoy the beautiful view of the harbor and the Chania lighthouse. In Chania you can't go wrong if you stick to the easternmost end of the harbor. Antigoni's taverna is tucked away at the farthest corner of the harbor and is a popular local hangout, which is always a good sign. Fish and seafood are de rigueur and you can trust the helpful staff to direct you what is best that day. First-rate harbor view from the outdoor terrace all add up to a pleasant dining experience. Sit next to the sea, admire the little fishing harbor of Kolymbari and be treated as a friend by the Kapenekakis family, who have owned this restaurant for the past 26 years. The menu is extensive and if you fancy fish or seafood this is the place to eat! Ask them to tell you all the fresh fish of the day or try the lobster pasta, shrimp, calamari or octopus - all straight from the sea in front of you. Bossa Nova Restaurant and Beer Bar has an eclectic menu inspired from Greece, as well as the rest of the world. Everything, including all the sauces, are homemade. A signature of their s is that they serve more than 100 different kinds of beer, but also a large selection of wines and numerous cocktails, coffees, and refreshments, as well as homemade sweets, cakes and pies. Great music is an integral part of the ambiance and you can hear a wide variety, often live. Rejoice in the fact that this great eatery has come conveniently closer to Chania and mercifully has remained invincibly first rate. Classic Italian dishes include Fish baked in salt crust, Beef Marsala, Lobster in many forms and superb non-ubiquitous pastas. The divine Panna Cotta with raspberry preserves literally quivers on the plate. Great selection of Italian wines. If you are longing for a touch of Americana, look no further. Old favorites for those of us who have lived across the Atlantic include potato skins with bacon, cheese and sour cream and a pretty decent Caesar Salad. Of course the mains include authentic steaks from Argentina and America, BBQ spare ribs and juicy giant burgers. The wine cellar houses a good collection of labels. Nestled in the heart of the old harbour of Chania, Kariatis has been around for over 12 years serving Italian cuisine in an elegant romantic setting with Italianesque statues. Perennial favorites such as Beef Carpaccio or Prosciutto and Melon are all here. Mains include the ever-popular Spaghetti Frutti di Mare. The comprehensive wine list also has labels from Europe and afar. This is a great little value for money eatery, open only during the day for lunch/early dinner. It is definitely a locals hang-out and in the fall and winter, home to many students. The kitchen is a large open one, inviting you to come there and choose your foods from amongst a large selection of daily specials. You really can't go wrong and the value is superb. This hip eatery, housed in a renovated building from the Turkish era is opposite the Minaret of Splanzia. Mediterranean flavors are transformed into delicious creations under the hands of chef/owner Manolis Pedinakis. Start with the spicy Syrian salad, for a main dish choose the Corfiot specialty "Sofrito" beef, or go for the colorful meze palette like steamed mussels and Moroccan rolls. Very much off the beaten path so you have to really be determined to go there if you are not already staying in one of the guest houses. Almost everything is prepared in/on wood-burning stoves and ovens and all the ingredients are seasonally home-grown and organic. Anytime of the year the food is memorable. Go for the quaintness, absolute authenticity and the peace and tranquility of a by-gone era. Oinopio (which means winery in Greek) is housed in an old Venetian building that was a winery in the 20 s. The menu offers traditional Cretan and Greek dishes and, five different kinds of local wines straight from the barrel are available. The green salad with figs and graviera cheese and local apaki is a great starter. Spend an evening in Chania mixing with locals on this very popular street. With a splendid view to the Old harbor, this beautifully renovated Neo- Classic villa with its modern-chic design, serves creative Mediterranean cuisine for both meat and seafood lovers. It is for sure one of Chania's "coolest" restaurant-café-bars, popular with locals and visitors. For a main, try the pork filet in Vinsanto sauce. There is an extensive wine list of Cretan and Greek varieties. Get there early to enjoy the romantic sunset. Kariatis Katehaki Square 12 Chania, Tel: Kouzina EPE Daskalogiannis 25, Chania Tel: Mesogiako Hatzimichali Daliani 36 Chania, Tel: Milia Settlement Vlatos Kissamos Tel: Oinopio Hatzimichali Daliani 46 Chania, Tel: Pallas Akti Tombazi 15 Chania Tel: chania restaurant listings chania restaurant listings 27.

15 MEETand inchania chania restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less Semiramis Skoufon 8, Chania Tel: Skoufos & Oinos (See pg. 23) Kallergon 24 Tel: Ta Chalkina Akti Tombazi Chania, Tel: Thalassino Ageri (See pg. 29) Vivilaki 35, Chania Tel: The lovely garden of Semiramis is nestled between the ruins of the Old Town Chania and offers the whole Greek atmosphere and hospitality of dining and enjoying entertainment together since they have live music every night. The food is traditional Greek and Cretan and the setting is very romantic! Try the rabbit stifado or the kaltsunia Cretan pies with cheese and wild greens. This place stands out amongst the crowd of eateries around the old Port of Chania, owned and operated by 2 professionals- a Sommelier and a Chef. The result is a gem of a menu with a small list of offerings so everything can change to reflect the seasons and the local ingredients. The home-made pastas are fabulous with both inspired sauces and simple, yet exquisite ones. Salads are original, the desserts worth splurging for and the wine list is brilliantly chosen. Busy eatery on the water s edge, filled with vibrant, young crowds sharing plates of meze, drinking raki and tapping to the rhythms of Cretan lira. Serving Cretan dishes from local ingredients like YiaYias Dakos or Chochlous (snails) sautéed in rosemary and olive oil. Try the Tigania (Frying pan) with lamb or chicken and finish your meal with a traditional Sfakia cheese pie with honey. This hidden gem of a fish/seafood tavern is in the old tannery neighbourhood of Halepa, snuggled amongst abandoned warehouses. Book a table at the water's edge and give yourself up to the stunning view and romantic sunsets. Pair this with the simply prepared extremely fresh fish and you have a winning combination. House wines are a great match with the foods, or try the famous local beer (brewed by a member of the family.) D I N N E R W I T H A V I E W Romantic dining at the edge of the sea Spectacular sunsets Freshest fish and inspired Mediterranean seafood dishes Tzitzikas Armeni Apokoronou Tel: Vinera 36 Kalinikou Sarpaki 36 Chania, Tel: This organic slow-food restaurant is hidden in the Apokoronou region, 20 minutes east of Chania, but is well worth a visit. Seated under the large plane trees next to a small spring, you feel like you are in paradise. Since all their vegetables and legumes are organic, start with a refreshing green salad with fresh seasonal fruits and home-made lemonade. Thankfully off the tourist track, this wine restaurant is hidden in a small alley behind the old port and is mercifully quiet. For wine lovers, look no further than the over 100 labels, many of which you can try by the glass. There are delicious homemade pastas, pies, potatoes and salads from organic vegetables and good deli style cold plates that are perfect as wine nibbles. Thalassino Ageri Fish Tavern 35 Vivilaki St. Tabakaria, Halepa-Chania. Tel: 2821O 51136, info@thalasino-ageri.gr chania restaurant listings

16 nostalgic cuisine with a modern flair Old Town Rethymno Creative Cuisine Xanthoudidou 22 & Radamanthios T: 2831O 5825O info@avli.gr Raw Materials Arabatzoglou 40 T: store@avli.gr 30. prefecture of rethymno

17 MEETand inrethymno rethymno restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less restaurant Agrimia Titou Petichaki 23, Rethymno Tel: Alana (See pg. 33 ) Salaminos 15 Rethymno Tel: Arodamos Anogeia Tel: Avli (See pg. 31) Xanthoudidou 22 Rethymno Tel: Castelvecchio Cheimaras 29, Rethymnno Tel: Agrimia is in the heart of Old Town Rethymno, serving creative Cretan cuisine for all who wish to take a break and watch the bustling crowds on the walking street. Try the chicken with figs and thyme or the beef with olives and Cretan Graviera cheese- all made using local olive oil. Ask for the portokalopita orange sponge cake at the end! There is also a playground for the little ones. Lovely courtyard dining in the historic old town with plenty of cool, soothing vegetation. The menu is a harmonious mix of Creative Greek and Mediterranean cuisines like the pork sirloin with Aegina nuts and plums. Try the Taste Nest salad with ruccola, red cabbage, currants and walnuts with a honey-balsamic dressing all in a phyllo pastry nest. Of paramount importance is the grill selection with fresh meats. Contrasted with many eating places in town, this has a large, airy, bright interior with nice folksy touches like Cretan handiwork tablecloths. Grab one of the coveted tables by the windows for spectacular views of Mt Psiloritis. In Anogeia, the order of the day is lamb anti-kristo and/or ofto and Arodamos does it well indeed. Ask for their own special Katsohiri cheese! Set in a magnificent 1530 s Venetian villa with an impressively blossoming multilevel courtyard, Avli may well be one of the finest restaurants on the island. The eclectic décor, art collection and table settings all add to the unique ambiance. The cuisine has both traditional like baked mountain goat with honey & thyme and innovative Cretan such as the mixed greens with smoked duck and fig sauce. There is a beautiful wine cellar with more than 450 labels to choose from! Castelvecchio can boast a beautiful setting in a renovated Venetian house high up on a hill next to the old Fortress. Dining is on one of the many terraces with splendid views and sunslets over Rethymno. This family-run operation has been pleasing guests for many years. The Greek/International menu has an abundance of interesting items such as the lamb in a creamy feta & tomato sauce. The ideal "meating" place. At the heart of the old city in a beautiful garden Location where local residents and foreign guest harmoniously coexist. Enjoy the local quality fresh, grilled or cooked meat, delicious dishes from the Cretan cuisine and friendly service. Affiliate your dinner with a unique homemade dessert. Guaranteed quality at a good price! Cavo D oro (See pg. 37) Nearhou 42 Rethymno Tel: Nestled in the quaint old port with the historical lighthouse in full view, Cavo D'oro has been charming guests for over 30 years. In the summer, romantic seating is at the water's edge with the gentle lapping of the small boats in the harbor. Fish and Seafood specialties abound (like squid, cuttlefish, octopus, prawns and crayfish), but meat lovers will also be very satisfied. Try one of the many excellent pastas with seafood or the Grouper with okra. 15 Salaminos Str., Rethymnon Old Town rethymno restaurant listings

18 MEETand inrethymno rethymno restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less outdoor dining rethymno restaurant Listings seaside dining live music MEETand inrethymno Corina Restaurant (See pg. 24) Damvergi 7-9, Tel: In Old Town Rethymno you will find this luxurious and beautiful restaurant nestled in a renovated Venetian-era palazzo, serving meat and fresh fish dishes all from local ingredients. Try the lamb kleftiko, which is a house specialty. Pick a nice bottle of wine from their own wine cellar and experience romantic dining at its best. This quirky restaurant gives you that boathouse feeling with a (thankfully) not overdone nautical theme. Dining outside you can taste the salt air a breath away from the water s edge. Lots of top quality grilled meats, firstclass seafood and plenty of innovations. Try the grilled wild greens pita or feta saganaki baked with honey. Prima Plora Akrotiriou 4, Rethymno Tel: Kechagias Stavromenos Tel: La Boheme Souliou 15 Rethymno Tel: Myrogdies Vernadou 32, Rethymno Tel: Othonas (See pg. 36) Petihaki Sq. 27, Rethymno Tel: Porto Parasiris Panormo Tel: This family-run taverna 10 km outside Rethymno epitomizes the concept of filoxenia (hospitality). The down-home, delicious cooking is thanks to Mrs. Kechagiadaki and her son Kosta runs the operation. Must try any/all of their daily specials and basically everything on the menu is first rate. There are two spacious terraces resplendent with flowers and hanging vines for relaxing and cool outdoor dining. Hidden in a side road in Old Town Rethymno, La Boheme is a perfect place for a romantic hide-away with mellow jazzy music in an enchanting inner garden. The dishes are traditional Cretan like the goat stew (tsigariasto) or the pork stuffed with bacon, tomato and mushrooms. In addition, they have the Cretan dish gamopilafo (wedding pilaf) if you are looking for something authentic to enjoy with an array of Cretan wines. The name of this quaint eatery means aromas, but is also a play on two words meaning gift to the Gods and pomegranate. The pomegranate theme is prevalent inside while out in the stone-walled garden the real pomegranate tree dominates. There are a large number of tempting dishes such as the famous Rethymno smoked pork with mushrooms and balsamic sauce. This restaurant makes both tourists and locals happy since the extensive menu considers the needs of all dining trends from Cretan to International. Inside is reminiscent of your Grandma s cosy. The food is all excellent quality. Go for the cooked Cretan cuisine such as lamb with artichokes or any of the wide variety of top-notch steaks. There is a large variety of MEZE for serious grazing. Efficient, professional service. This family-owned tavern has been in operation for almost 30 years with Argiro cooking and her sons serving guests. Ignore the touristic location, the cliché nature of the décor and the international selections on the menu and focus primarily on the local cuisine, such as succulently fresh sea urchin salad, baked calamari and well-prepared fish. Located at the entrance of the historic Fortezza, Soul Kitchen provides a relaxing and scenic atmosphere with live music in the evenings. They serve breakfast with porridge and green juices and for lunch local and international vegetarian dishes. In the evenings there is an amazing Macrobiotic dinner menu which changes every night. Superb position with cascading terraces nestling high on the hillside between the old harbour and the Fortezza. The name means ocean pictures, which is apropos since the owner is a well-known local artist. Menu offerings are primarily Cretan with some twists, as well as fresh fish, seafood and refreshing salads. Come for the view and the overall fresh feeling. In this Chef-owned restaurant you dine in the courtyard of a carefully reconstructed 16th century stone house complete with its own well. The extensive menu is liberally-interpreted Greek cuisine with Mediterranean overtones. Enjoy such delicacies as the grilled rabbit with anthogalo cheese or the grilled veggies with honey and garlic. Respectable wine list and extremely amiable and efficient service. Drossia is one of those cross-roads villages on the old Rethymno-Heraklion highway. Once powerful as an Ottoman administrative post, it is now famous for the best charcoal-roasted suckling pig on the island. The little beasts are grown organically around the village and are melt-in-your-mouth succulent with crackling skins. Enjoy it beneath the shade of a very old plane tree with some wild greens and salad to accompany. Enjoy it beneath the shade of an old plane tree. This old Venetian style restaurant and its accompanying hotel boasts being in the same location for 700 years. Stone-flagged floors, mosaics and antique furniture add to the old- world charm. The Cuisine artfully blends Mediterranean and Cretan such as the Mille-Feuille of salmon with avocado and sour myzithra cheese. Definitely spare time for the wine. The owner is a real buff and the cellar is impressive,which is why it continues to win awards. Soul Kitchen (See pg. 39) Katehaki & Cheimaras Rethymno, Tel: Thalassografia Kefalogiannidon 33 Rethymno, Tel: To Pigadi Xanthoudidou 27 Rethymno, Tel: Tsangaris Village of Drossia Tel: Veneto (See pg. 25) Epimenidou 4 Rethymno Tel: rethymno restaurant listings rethymno restaurant listings 35.

19 CAVO D ORO RESTAURANT Harborside dining with romantic view of the historic lighthouse Fresh fish & seafood Children s playroom Nearchou 42, Old Harbor Rethymno Tel: info@cavodoro-rethymno.com

20 RAW INGREDIENTS HORTA a walk on the wild side Anytime you are driving in the countryside of Crete, you will invariably see groups of women or entire families clambering over the hills, each carrying bags, their eyes to the ground. They are looking for their favorite side dish for dinner: horta. Horta, or wild greens grow all Greece, but Crete is particularly blessed with a great variety. There are purportedly at least 300 different kinds of edible weeds depending on whom you talk to. It also varies according to the area of the island and the season and can include everything from black mustard, nettle, amaranth and dandelion to wild sorrel, chicory, fennel, chard, kale, black night shade, hoary mustard, etc. Also eaten as horta are the fresh leaves of the caper plant that grow abundantly in the wild throughout the spring and summer. One of the new favorites is stamnagathi (spiny chicory) which is great raw in salads or cooked in many ways. A most unusual horta called kritamo (samphire) grows only in-between the rocks and cracks near the sea. It is hard to come by and not very plentiful, therefore rather pricey. It may be served fresh, lightly steamed or parboiled and preserved in vinegar. Most often these wild greens are served raw in salads or simply steamed lightly and served with extra virgin olive oil and fresh lemon juice. They are also a key ingredient in the many wild greens pies made all over the island and are judiciously used in omelets and meat and seafood dishes. 38. Horta a walk on the wild side

21 Fish & Seafood Restaurant Enchanted Garden The best reason to visit Agios Nikolaos Koraka & Katehaki 10. Agios Nikolaos (one block up from the harbor and lake). Tel: prefecture of lassithi

22 MEETand in lassithi lassithi restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less gargadoros Amalthea Akti Pagalou 17 Ag. Nikolaos Tel: Balcony Fountalidou 19 Sitia Tel: Captain Nicolas Plaka Village Tel: Chrysofyllis Akti Pagalou, Ag. Nik. Tel: Ferryman Seafront Elounda Tel: Gargadoros (See pg. 43) Gargadoros Beach Tel: Named after the mythical goat who was the Stepmother of Zeus, this newcomer is a haven of crisp minimialism with lots of summer white on chairs and linens, grey stone walls, a modern, open kitchen and the sea a breath away. The menu is Mediterranean, with Cretan specialties. Look for any number of succulent, tasty meats on the SPIT. There is also a wide selection of fresh fish/seafood. Service is very friendly. Located two streets from the harbour on the first floor of a traditional house, Balcony has an an eye-catchingingly colorful, lively, exotic décor (Mexican touches), nicely appointed tables and memorable plate presentations. The menu has traditional Cretan cuisine as its base, but imaginatively uses Mexican and Asian influences from the owner/chef s travels and changes frequently to reflect seasonal availabilities. Decent wine list. Fish doesn t get much fresher than from your very own fishing boats! This revered fish restaurant commands the best location next to the harbor with stunning views of Spinalonga and the bay. Predictable starters for an eatery catering to tourists, but you can overlook that because of the incredibly fresh fish/seafood. Service is proficient and in many languages. This modern Radadiko is on the road just past Kitroplatia beach facing the sea. The ambiance is unassuming, comfortable and relaxing. There is a large selection of both seafood and meat starters, many of which are truly original. Must trys include the fabulous pork filet with wine, honey and sun-dried tomatoes. The wine list is first class and there is a selection of over 10 different ouzos. This famous eatery (where they filmed the TV series Who pays the Ferryman? ) has remained a warm, intimate, family-owned and operated tavern with very friendly service, a superb waterfront location and spectacular views toward Spinalonga and the bay. Local fish is always a good bet. On the outskirts of Agios Nikolaos across the street from the quaint beach of the same name, this lively, colorful seaside taverna serves up great fish and seafood in some inventive ways. Enjoy the seafood giouvetsi (with orzo rather than standard risotto) or as a starter, mini arabic pitas with grilled haloumi and parsley sauce. The large porch with swaying tamarisk trees is very relaxing. Where the fish share the same postal code as the restaurant Gargadoros Beach, Agios Nikolaos, Tel: lassithi restaurant listings

23 MEETand in lassithi Green & Meat Akti Themistokleous 5 Ag. Nikolaos lassithi restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less A new addition to this seaside road that leads around to the harbor, the quaint Green & Meat lives up to its namesake of offering many interesting, hearty salads and other offerings kind to vegetarians, such as grilled veggies with feta. In addition it boasts a robust selection of grilled meats and meat dishes, including the not-often-found veal liver. Prices are very low, making this a great value and a delightful setting with a few tables at the edge of the sea. Cretan Music & Dancing nights Seaside Dining Haroupo Ergospasio (See pg. 45 ) Akti Oloundos 5 Elounda Tel: Kroustas Tavern Village of Kroustas Tel: Industrial chic came to Crete in this carefully renovated old carob factory. Dining is on several levels and includes terraces right over the sea and tables at the water s edge, with stunning views of the gulf and Spinalonga. The diverse menu has specialties from across Greece as well as world influences, fresh fish/ shellfish. A good selection of wines from all over Greece. Live music and special Cretan evenings. Nestled in the foothills of Mount Dikti, Kroustas Tavern is the lone eatery in this small village. Undoubtedly the best place on the island for staka, probably the richest goat cheese ever. The Chef-owner offers staka on its own, to be spread on bread, or inside an omelet of the freshest free-range eggs. (Editor s warning- if you fear for your arteries, this is not a diet to follow regularly.) Fresh Fish & Seafood welcoming atmosphere Lotus Eaters Seafront Elounda Tel: Sit comfortably and gaze quietly to sea at this little haven of a family eatery a stone s throw from the water s edge. Service is unfailingly professional & friendly in many languages. The extensive menu offers some interesting international items along with typical Greek fare done very well, such as the Stifado. Other signature dishes include a Steamed Bass with ginger, onions and soy sauce. Mesostrati Mochlos-Sitias Tel: Mesostrati is one of several tavernas clustered at the edge of the sea in the still relatively unspoiled village of Mochlos. It is immune to the vagaries of fashion, so you won t find any pretentious swank here. If you can tear yourself away from the exquisite dip they bring with the bread, savor simple food with fresh,quality ingredients prepared expertly with some inventive touches. The fish doesn t get any fresher, so inquire about the day s catch. Migomis N. Plastira 22, Ag. Nik. Tel: Located high above the madding crowds, Migomis is a sophisticated spot with a captivating view down to the lake and the harbour. There is soothing live piano music most evenings and an international menu with definite flair, including the not-often-seen-in-crete duck breast and game. One of the best wine lists on the island especially if one feels like splurging. Akti Oloundos 5 (At the junction to the canal), Elounda Tel: , lassithi restaurant listings

24 MEETand in lassithi lassithi restaurant Listings Price per person for an average 3-course meal without drinks. 10 or less Pelagos (See pg. 41 ) Koraka 11 Ag. Nikolaos Tel: Piperia Pefki-Makrigialos Tel: Portes Anapfaseos 3, Ag. Nik. Tel: Thalassa Plaka Village Tel: Vilaeti (See pg. 47) Ag. Konstantinos Lassithi Plateau Tel: An institution in Agios, Pelagos is one block up from the fishing harbour in a beautifully restored Neo-classic house. Summertime seating is in a cool, serene, enchanted garden ideal for hot sultry nights. Pelagos is noted primarily for its seafood and fish and many new interpretations of traditional favorites abound. For a starter, don t miss the rarely found Sea Urchin salad or the Pil Pil Salad with prawns, prosciutto & smoked salmon. Sit under the shade and shelter of the enormous pepper tree that gives the tavern its name and bask in the tranquility of this small hamlet. Savor excellent cooked dishes like Stifado and Goat with fresh beans or the sublime hortopitakia with 7 different mountain greens. Many products like oil, wine, raki and honey that are produced by the family can be purchased as well. You won t find a place any more authentic than this down home, charming, warm, whimsical taverna. Although it has been here for 30 years, it is still a well-kept secret in many ways. Everything is made with much care and attention using locally obtained ingredients. The best rabbit stifado on the island is found here, made with the addition of plums and figs. The red aromatic local house wine is a must. This brand new fish/seafood eatery is brought to you by the same owner as Pelagos, the long-time favorite in Agios Nikolaos. The setting for Thalassa is dramatic indeed--perched right at the edge of the sea, somewhat elevated, with a first-hand view of Spinalonga. All seafood favorites are in evidence, as is extremely fresh local fish. Savor the sights, smells and sounds of the sea! This traditional tavern is in the tiny, quaint hamlet of Agios Konstantinos in the heart of the Lassithi Plateau. This is village dining at its best. All the ingredients are local, many their own (chickens, rabbits) and mostly organic. The menu changes almost daily to reflect the freshest and most seasonal. Meats are prepared in the wood oven and on the spit. Cool summertime dining is on the porch or the roof garden with its soothing views. Healthy Cretan cuisine with locally farmed meats and organic vegetables prepared in the wood oven. Perfect place for before or after excursions to Dikteon Cave or the beautiful Havgas Gorge. Xiliariko Akti Nearchou 15, Ag. Nik. Tel: Enjoy a compelling view of the boats and sailing life across from the Marina in this new incarnation of an old favorite. There are lots of great meze, many classics but also some more unusual ones like Squid Stifado (stew with onions and wine) or Amorgos chicken breast stuffed with myzithra cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. Wine list is limited but well conceived and altogether it is good value for money. VILAETI. Ag. Konstantinos, Lassithi Plateau. T.: info@vilaeti.gr 46. lassithi restaurant listings

25 MEETand increte dine and wine guide Get off the beaten track! Download and let us show you the way! Photos Rewievs Favorites Filter Call Directly Like or Dislike Share and Suggest Get Directions Meet and Eat in Crete - The definitive guide to dining in Crete since 2007