City guide. Istanbul

Transcription

1 City guide Istanbul

2 Istanbul is a truly glorious city. In the summer I love going for brunch at the cafés and gardens around Rumelian Castle; the European side is especially popular with locals. Then I like to take the passenger boat from Eminönü harbour and travel up the Bosphorus. It s a great way to experience Istanbul s famous waterway and the border between Europe and Asia. Swap the crowded streets for views of palaces, serene villages, wooden summer houses and fishing harbours. For the evening there s the Pierre Lotti café on the Golden Horn, named after the French writer. You can spend hours tasting tea on the terrace. Try to go when the sun goes down and gives its colour to the water - it s the effect of the Golden Horn. 2

3 Set Your Sights Hagia Sophia The Church of the Divine Wisdom in Sultanahmet is a wonderful architectural beauty and an important monument both for Byzantine and Ottoman Empires. Once a church, later a mosque, and now a museum, Hagia Sophia has always been the precious of its time. The mystical city Istanbul has hosted many civilizations over the centuries, of which the Byzantium and Ottoman Empires were both the most famous ones. Istanbul today carries the characteristics of these two different cultures and surely Hagia Sophia is a perfect synthesis where one can observe both Ottoman and Byzantium effects under one great dome. Opening Times: Tues-Sun (winter); Tues-Sun (summer) plus first Monday of every month Admission Fees: Yes Topkapi Palace The largest and oldest palace in the world, Topkapi was the crown jewel of the Ottoman Empire. With its harem, treasury and exotic buildings overlooking the Golden Horn, your visit to Topkapi promises to be a truly fascinating experience. The palace was a setting for state occasions and royal entertainments and today contains the most holy relics of the Muslim world such as the prophet Muhammed s cloak and sword. Make sure not to miss the Treasury in the 3rd courtyard with its incredible gems, gold and works of art. Opening Times: Wed-Mon Admission Fees: Yes. The Blue Mosque One of the most famous monuments in both the Turkish and Islamic worlds, the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (also known as the Blue Mosque) is a superb creation in the classical Ottoman style. The mosque has six towering minarets and 260 windows illuminating its vast main chamber, which is decorated with more than 20,000 Iznik tiles. Tourists must enter through the north gate and remove their shoes at the entrance (plastic bags for shoes are provided). Modest dress is required for both men and women; women must cover their heads. Wraps are provided when deemed necessary by mosque officials. Opening Times: Daily Admission Fees: No The Basilica Cistern Being the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul, this cistern is located right next west to the Hagia Sophia The design of this place is very impressive so walk around admiring the columns with different carvings on them untill you see the two Medusas at the base of two columns. The channels fill with water, being used to provide water for Topkapi Palace and host the many carp fish which swim around. There is a small cafe where you can soak up the unique ambiance of this place. The cistern was used as a location for the 1963 James Bond film From Russia with Love and for the finale of The International (2009). 3

4 Many of the 335 columns supporting the cathedral-like ceiling have been recycled from pre-christian temples - such as the Medusa heads that are used as column bases, pilfered from the Temple of Apollo in Didyma (Didim). Opening Times: Daily Admission Fees: Yes Beylerbey Sarayi On the Asian shore of the Bosporus stands what was once a building of the Dolmabahce Palace, where important guests of the Ottoman sultan would stay. The palace and its decor, which date from the mid-19th century, may seem overblown, but its waterside quay and tea garden are inviting on a hot day. Open daily 9 am-4 pm. 10 TL. Abdullah Aga Caddesi, Uskudar, Istanbul. Phone Bulgar Kilisesi ( Church) Located in a small, attractive park along the west bank of the Golden Horn, the Church of St. Stephen of the Bulgars is a spiky Victorian Gothic church that would not look out of place in a New England university town. The city s Bulgarian community, which had broken away from the Greek Orthodox church in 1871, ordered the church to be constructed in Vienna entirely of cast iron. It was then disassembled and shipped on barges down the Danube to its new site on the Golden Horn, where it was bolted together. The church is still used by the Bulgarian community for religious services, and several of the fathers of the local Bulgarian Orthodox Church are buried there. To take a peek inside, you may have to tip the caretaker. Open daily 9 am-4 pm. Free. Mursel Pasa Caddesi 85, Balat, Istanbul. Phone

5 Dolmabahce Sarayi Designed for Sultan Abdul Mecit in 1856, Dolmabahce Palace is among the most extraordinary residences of Europe. Although the Ottoman Empire was already in decline at the time of its construction, no expense was spared, thanks in part to loans from Continental bankers that ultimately bankrupted the Ottoman treasury. The architect for the palace had cut his teeth designing sets for operettas in Paris: The result is a camp pastiche of a European palace. You can visit the palace only by taking one of two guided tours. One covers the men s section, staterooms and the vast ceremonial hall, and the other visits the women section, including the living quarters of the sultan. If you can take only one tour, visit the fabulous ceremonial hall, designed to hold 2,500 people, and note the superb decoration of the dome and the English chandelier. Also check out the main bathroom, or hamam, the walls of which are fitted with splendid Egyptian alabaster and solid silver taps. Attentive visitors will notice that all the clocks in the palace read 9:05 am at all times. This is because Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, died in his bedroom in the palace at 9:05 am on 10 November On Tuesday during the summer, the Turkish army band, dressed in the costumes of the famous Janissaries, performs traditional music outside the Imperial Gate. Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday-Sunday 9 am-4 pm. Dolmabahce Caddesi (along the Bosporus), Besiktas, Istanbul. Phone Galata Kulesi Built in 1348 by the Genoese to protect their ethnic enclave, the Galata Tower stands 205 ft/62 m high, crowned and fortified by a conical witch s hat roof. It s one of the most distinctive sights of Istanbul s skyline and offers one of the best views of the city, with a panorama stretching across to the Princes Islands. During the Ottoman Empire, this structure was used as a watchtower, but today it is a tourist attraction with a restaurant and others on the eighth and ninth floors. An elevator is available for those who don t want to climb the narrow spiral staircase. Open daily 9:00 am-8 pm (restaurant and others till midnight). Admission 10 TL. Galata Meydani, Beyoglu, Istanbul. Phone galatatower.net Hidiv Kasri High above the Bosporus at Kanlica, the Hidiv Kasri (the Khedive s villa) was built as a summer home for the Egyptian Khedive, or ruler, in the 19th century. It has some beautiful art-nouveau details, and the grounds are a wonderful place to drink tea on hot days. Daily 9:30 am-9:30 pm. Free. Kafadar Sokak, Cubuklu (Kanlica), Istanbul. Phone Kariye Camii Better known as the Church of the Holy Savior in Chora, this unassuming late Byzantine church is famous for its mosaics, which are among the finest surviving works of Byzantine art in the world. Originally constructed in the fourth century AD, it was rebuilt by Theodore Melitoches, the Byzantine Grand Logothete (or Imperial Chancellor), at the beginning of the 14th century. It s now a museum well worth a visit, especially for its wonderfully preserved mosaic and fresco cycles depicting the life of the Virgin Mary,the Passion and the Last Judgment. Above the doorway is a portrait of Melitoches himself, presenting the church to the Virgin enthroned. The church represents the final flowering of Byzantine art before the empire entered its death throes, and the mosaic figures also show the influence of early Renaissance art. Daily except Wednesday 9 am- 4:30 pm. Admission 10 TL. Kariye Camii Sokak, Edirnekapi, Istanbul. Phone

6 Roman Hippodrome Though now a crumbled relic of its former glory, the Hippodrome was once the hub of Byzantine cultural life. In addition to a modest section of the original wall, the only remaining parts of this ancient arena are a fine pair of granite obelisks brought from Egypt and a column depicting entwined snakes that was brought from Greece and dates from the fifth century BC. The Hippodrome was the site of horse and chariot races from Byzantine times up to the early Ottoman period. It was later used for annual processions of the city s guilds. Free. Atmeydani Square, Sultanahmet (in front of the Sultan Ahmet Camii), Istanbul. Rumeli Hisari A spectacular hillside castle built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453 as he prepared to seize Constantinople from the Byzantines. The castle s gardens are well worth exploring, and in summer, big-name Turkish performers present excellent openair concerts on the grounds. Daily except Wednesday 9 am-4:30 pm. Free. Yahya Kemal Caddesi 42, Istanbul. Rustem Pasa Camii Tucked away in the maze of streets near the Spice Bazaar is this wonderful mosque built by the great Ottoman architect Sinan in The walls, both inside and out, are encased in glorious Iznik tiles, many painted in a striking tomato-red hue. Open daily to visitors except during prayer times. Hasircilar Caddesi, Tahtakale, Istanbul. Suleymaniye Camii This hilltop mosque is one of the masterpieces of Sinan, the Ottoman Empire s greatest architect. It was constructed in the 1500s on the orders of Suleyman the Magnificent, the empire s greatest sultan. In addition to the magnificent mosque, the Suleymaniye complex includes a library, hospital and soup kitchens that fed thousands of the city s poor, regardless of their religion. (Ironically, the street between the mosque and the charitable buildings once held cafes that sold both opium and hashish, earning it the moniker «Addict s Alley.») The tombs of Suleyman, his wife Roxelana, his daughter Mihrimah and his two successors, Suleyman II and Ahmet II, are in the main mosque, but the tomb of Sinan himself is just outside the building s walls. The mosque s central prayer hall, a huge, domed rectangle, is truly awe-inspiring. Open daily except during prayer times. Free. Prof. Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi (just north of Istanbul University), Beyazit, Istanbul. Phone Sultan Ahmet Camii Familiarly known as the Blue Mosque, this famous mosque is one of the world s most beautiful. Built on the orders of Sultan Ahmet I ( ) and designed by imperial architect Mehmet Aga, it gets its name from the blue Iznik tiles that cover its walls. From the time it was built, the mosque was at the center of controversy because it had six towering minarets most mosques have two or four and was therefore considered sacrilegious by some who saw it as rivaling Mecca. It is still used for religious worship at prayer times, but visitors can enter when services are not being held. More than 250 windows let subdued light into the mosque, though most of the original 17thcentury stained glass is no longer in place. After you visit, you may wish to see the small Vakiflar Carpet Museum that is housed in the Imperial Pavilion on one side of the mosque. There is also a sound-and-light show daily after dusk May-September. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Free. Sultanahmet Medani (Sultanahmet), Istanbul. 6

7 Been there, done that? The Istanbul Modern is a key stop for anyone curious about 20th-century Turkish art, and the Pera Museum holds superb international exhibitions, including works by Rembrandt, Henri Cartier-Bresson and other famous painters. Do not miss the private collections of the Sabanci University s Sakip Sabanci Museum in Emirgan which opened in 2002 and is dedicated to calligraphic art, religious and state documents as well as paintings of the Ottoman era: recent highlights included Picasso and Dali exhibitions. The superb Archaeological Museum is also worth a visit. It has beautiful gardens and comprises three separate buildings: the main archaeological museum, the Museum of the Ancient Orient and the Museum of Islamic Art you can spend a whole day browsing the collection. The Rahmi Koç Museum is dedicated to the history of transport, industry and communications. It s on the shore of the Golden Horn and has everything from steam cars to ships and aircraft. Witness the Whirling Dervishes A dervish is someone who practices Sufism, the 700-year old mystical Mevlevi sect of Islam. During their ceremonies devotees whirl, or spin around and around, in a trance-like state, ostensibly getting closer to God with their movements. They wear long flowing cloaks, representing burial shrouds, and tall wool hats that symbolize their ego s tombstone. Their religion is one based on love and passion for the divine. They believe that through music, meditation, chanting, and dance, spiritual enlightenment can be attained. There are only a couple of places to see the Dervishes, and you ll need a reservation because they only perform at certain times of the month. Here s one: Neighborhoods & Districts Beyoglu Located on the other side of the Golden Horn from Eminonu and the Old City, now-fashionable Beyoglu has seen its fortunes rise, fall and rise again over the centuries. For much of its history, this area was the European quarter of Istanbul; in the 1800s, it became home to grand foreign embassies, ornate luxury hotels and fancy boulevards. When Ataturk moved the Turkish capital to Ankara in the 1920s, the embassies moved, too, and the neighborhood slowly fell into disrepair and seediness. However, in the government began a renovation and cleanup project. Many of the grand buildings have been restored. The main artery is Istiklal Caddesi, a wide pedestrian boulevard running from just north of Galata Tower to Taksim Square, which is the place where young people congregate in the evening. The street contains all kinds of clothing stores, good restaurants in all price brackets, sidewalk cafes and movie theaters. The various side streets are worth checking out, too. One particularly famed street is Cicek Pasaj, a glassceilinged alley of restaurants and cafes modeled after a Parisian arcade. Behind it is the Nevizade Sokak, a street full of small restaurants whose tables spill onto the pavement, which is a great place for a night out. Just down the hill from Istiklal is the famous Pera Palas Hotel, where Agatha Christie penned Murder on the Orient Express. East of Istiklal Caddesi is French Street (Cezayir/Algeria Street), a recent attempt to re-create a slice of Parisian street life in Istanbul. It s not particularly authentic, but it s a happening place to visit. 7

8 Ortakoy A popular area along the Bosporus, north of central Istanbul. Located at the foot of the Bosporus Bridge, Ortakoy has upscale modern apartments interspersed with small old houses. The narrow streets are home to churches, synagogues and mosques, along with art galleries, boutiques, and stylish cafes where the young and trendy meet. Ortakoy Square, the heart of the district, is where you will find the greatest concentration of traditional Turkish cafes. On weekends, the square is home to a charming flea market. Many fine hotels and some of the city s best seafood restaurants are there, too. At the Ortakoy waterfront, you can hire small boats to take you for a short Bosporus trip. Ortakoy is generally a 10-minute cab ride from Taksim, although on weekends this popular district can become jammed with traffic. Another option is to take the 20-minute ferry ride from the Eminonu Terminal, though this service only operates during work hours. Uskudar and Kadikoy The Asian side of Istanbul was home to the city s first settlers (in the eighth century BC) and formed the starting point for the trade routes to Asia. It has a relaxed pace and a more down-home feel than its European counterpart. Uskudar, to the north, has several impressive mosques (including the Atik Valide Mosque, one of the most extensive religious complexes in all of Istanbul) and the Selimiye Barracks, where Florence Nightingale set up her first hospital during the Crimean War. Farther south along the coast is Kadikoy. One of the main drags there is Soguk Cesme Caddesi, which has a number of shops and a few malls. The narrow side streets contain bookshops, markets and some old Greek and Armenian churches. Kadikoy is also where you ll find Bagdat Caddesi, one of Istanbul s best-known shopping boulevards. Most of the world s top clothing brands are sold along that street, as well as the finest in furniture, decorative art, paintings and antiques. For those famished by bargain hunting, there are a number of nice cafes and restaurants. Also in Kadikoy is the stately Haydarpasa railway station, built by German engineers in the 1800s at the behest of Kaiser Wilhelm. Both Uskudar and Kadikoy are accessible by the ferries that leave from Eminonu (also known as Sirkeci), on the European side. Parks & Gardens Feshane Children s Entertainment Park This is a lively park if you have children in your party. A regular program of festivals and events are aimed at children, and there are play areas and activities for all ages. It s also ideal if you just want a leisurely stroll. Nearby is Feshane Market, a labyrinth of narrow walkways where you can find authentic crafts and jewelry. Eski Feshane Caddesi, Defterdar Duragi, Eyup, Istanbul. Gulhane Park For a break from the hustle and bustle of the bazaar quarter, escape into Gulhane Park, at the foot of the Topkapi Palace hill, where there were once the gardens of the Byzantine and Ottoman emperors. Enclosed by Byzantine palace walls, the park is a tranquil refuge of giant plane trees and quiet, dusty paths. The park lies with the Blue Mosque as a backdrop, and the Topkapi Palace and the Aya Sophia in view. Just outside the park you can hire a horse-drawn carriage or hop on board an open-top bus for sightseeing tours around the city. Aya Sofya Square, Sultanahmet, Istanbul. 8

9 Miniaturk Why spend hours walking around the sights of Istanbul when you can do them at Miniaturk in an hour? Painstakingly detailed scale models of Istanbul s mosques, churches and palaces are displayed in an attractive park, complete with a Bosporus bridge you can walk across. It s pure kitsch but fun for kids. Daily 9 am-7 pm. Admission 5 TL adults, 3 TL students, free for children younger than 6. Imrahor Caddesi, Sutluce, Istanbul. Phone And the other things you may find Bosporus Ferries No trip to Istanbul would be complete without a ferry ride on the Bosporus, which links the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara. On one bank is Asia, on the other Europe, and in between is a curious, two-current strait: The surface water travels from the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, and a colder, saltier current of water travels below it in the opposite direction. The ride is especially delightful on a sunny day, when the Bosporus is filled with ships of all nations on their way to and from Bulgaria, Romania, Russia and the Asian parts of Turkey. The trip takes you past upscale waterside suburbs with good seafood restaurants, wonderful imperial palaces, classic Turkish mansions, vast bridges that link the continents, and the fortresses of Anadolu Hisar and Rumeli Hisar. Keep an eye out for the stylish yalis (villas) that the Turkish aristocracy built along the waterfront. Some are fairly run-down, but others are beautifully restored, with expensive speed boats moored at their front piers. If your particular method of travel allows it, try to break for a seafood lunch at Anadolu Kavagi, at the Black Sea end of the Bosporus. Afterward, for a spectacular view of the Black Sea, climb to the castle at the top of the hill behind it. Public Bosporus ferries leave from Bogaz Hati, a pier in Eminonu. The tours last five hours and depart at 10:30 and 11:30 am and 1:30 pm in summer; at 10:30 am only in winter. Private Bosporus cruises also depart from Eminonu near the Galata Bridge, but they don t travel as far up the strait as the public ferries. Phone (general), (ferries) or (sea buses). Also see for timetables. Beaches One of the best beaches near Istanbul is Kamo s Beach on Kinaliada, one of the Princes Islands, which is popular because it is easy to get to from the city center. Other good beaches include Buzada Beach on Galatasaray Island; Golden Beach at Marmarcik Cove in the village of Rumeli Feneri, a few kilometres outside Istanbul; Solar Beach at Kilyos, which is just outside the city at the point where the Bosphorus joins the Black Sea; and Dalia Beach, which runs along the shoreline on the European side of the Bosphorus at Demircikoy, Sariyer. Hiking & Walking The best place to hike near Istanbul is in the rolling oak, birch and chestnut woods of the Belgrade forest, just 6 mi/10 km from the city center. Take bus No. 42-T from Taksim Square to Bahcekoy; alternatively, take the metro from Taksim to 4 Levent (the last stop; there s only one line) and get a cab to the forest; fare is 25 TL one way. Spas and Health Clubs Our favorite form of recreation in Istanbul (if we can call it that) is a traditional Turkish bath (hamam). Many visitors find their first bath a bit unsettling, but we highly recommend the experience. 9

10 Cagaloglu Hamam A historic Turkish bath that has been in continuous operation since the 18th century. Monday-Saturday 8 am-10 pm (men only after 8 pm). YerebatanCaddesi.34,Cagaloglu,Istanbul. Cemberlitas-Hamam A Turkish bath in a beautiful domed building that has been in operation since the 1500s. Open Monday-Saturday 8 am-8 pm.vezirhan Caddesi-8,Cemberlitas,Istanbul. Marmara-Gym One of the best and most centrally located fitness clubs in town, with a pool and sauna. Daily 7 am-10 pm. Taksim Square (in the Marmara Hotel), themarmarahotl.com/the-marmara-istambul/gymspa-gym.asp. Tours Private Tour: Istanbul in One Day Sightseeing Tour including Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace From GBP Take a hassle-free tour of Istanbul s most famous attractions with your own private guide to lead the way. You ll enjoy personalized attention on your private tour of magical Istanbul and its signature sights: the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace. Highlights: Full-day private tour of Istanbul and its main attractions Superb Blue Mosque Historic Hagia Sophia and its Byzantine mosaics Underground Cistern Ottoman architecture and museums of Topkapi Palace Shopping heaven in the Grand Bazaar Lunch included Enjoy privileged, personalized attention from your English-speaking guide on this special private tour Pick-up and drop-off from central Istanbul hotels Private Tour: Istanbul s Ottoman Experience Including Topkapi Palace and Blue Mosque From GBP Discover three top Istanbul attractions in the city s UNESCO-listed Sultanahmet neighborhood on a 4-hour private tour! While learning about the Ottoman days of Istanbul, when the city was known as Constantinople, visit the Hippodrome, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. Hear tales of the extravagant sultans who typified the city under Ottoman rule, and ogle incredible architecture and artifacts inside each of the city landmarks. Private Tour: Ottoman Istanbul Full-Day Tour with Optional After-Hours Visit to Hagia Sophia From GBP

11 Experience the best of Ottoman Istanbul on this full-day private tour. Accompanied by an expert private guide, visit top Istanbul attractions including the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and captivating Grand Bazaar. Also, visit the spectacular Hagia Sophia during its regular opening hours, or upgrade to enjoy a crowd-free visit either before or after its official opening times. Your tour also includes lunch at a traditional restaurant, as well as personalized attention from your private guide. A very special way to witness the highlights of old, Ottoman Istanbul! Highlights Full-day private tour of the highlights of Ottoman Istanbul Visit the top Istanbul attractions of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia Absorb the sights, sounds and aromas of the chaotic Grand Bazaar Ogle Istanbul s skyline from the Bosphorus waterfront Break for a delicious, included lunch at a traditional restaurant Upgrade to visit the Hagia Sophia before or after opening hours for a crowd-free experience Enjoy undivided attention and in-depth commentary from your own private guide Full-Day City Tour with Private Tour Guide and Red Carpet Treatment with Luxury Minibus From GBP Pick up from your Hotel or Cruise Ship and continue for a full day Private Tour. Hippodromme - Blue Mosque - Hagia Sophia - Topkapi Palace - Grand Bazaar. Highlights All entrance fees included All taxes, fuel surcharges and service fees included Free hotel pickup and drop-off included Free port pickup and drop-off included Private tour is operated with just your party and a guide/driver Perfect introduction for first-time visitors Great overview and orientation of the city 11

12 Shopping For interiors If you re interested in Ottoman and Byzantine antiques, try Sofa, one of a sea of art and antiques stores just shy of the gates to the Grand Bazaar. From painted boxes, opaline glass, silverware and kilims to prints stacked against the walls and ceilings dripping with lamps and ceramics not a surface is left free. Another source of antiques and unusual artefacts is Cukurcuma, the quaint hilly backstreets of Beyoglu on the fringe of the trendy Cihangir area. Start at A La Turca, where ErkaI Aksoy sells gorgeous antique carpets and kilims on four floors of a 19th-century mansion, then radiate from there. In recent years, the appeal of the area has doubled due to an emergence of young creatives and artists. Among them, interior designer Hakan Ezer has created a slick store that sells chic leather furniture to the Ralph Lauren set and whose stuff is just as likely to end up in the Hamptons as in the homes of wealthy locals. Hiref is good for ceramics and home accessories combining Turkish/Ottoman motifs with modern functionality. Also try Pasabahce, a local hand-blown glass chain that produces pieces for international brands and offers an extensive collection of gorgeous glassware. For fashion Istanbul locals consider the chicest stretch in town to be the recently regenerated Akaretler Row Houses on either side of the new W Hotel, but you might find the brand names like Dior, Lanvin, YSL and many more rather familiar. Instead, head to the upmarket Nisantasi area and the shop of Arzu Kaprol, on Istanbul s answer to Bond Street and Madison Avenue. Kaprol s designs encapsulate the Istanbul look with chiffon dresses embroidered with Ottoman calligraphy in gold thread or slim-cut leather jackets lined with Turkish silk. In Galatasaray, Turkish fashion and interior designer Asli Tunca reinterprets traditional Ottoman items silk pyjamas, beaded bags with a fine European sensibility and displays them around her showroom. For jewellery It s worth taking the time to visit some of Istanbul s talented designers, including the internationally renowned society jeweller Gilan. Also try Sait Koç, where local families order bespoke gem-laden pieces and Sevan Bicacki for exquisite designs including gem-studded cuffs, pearl and diamond earrings and beautiful charm chains. Best markets If the historic and massive Grand Bazaar ( Kapalicarsi in Turkish) was traditionally for the locals, it now caters largely to tourists. Potential good buys include jewellery, embroidered Suzani and Kurdish rugs haggle hard and you can pick them up for less than a quarter of the UK price tag. Open: Mon to Sat One of our favourite spots is Abdullah L Chalabi, the very best place to lay your hands on antique Turkish and Ottoman jewellery. The shop has been trading since 1880 (it is rumoured to have closed for only three days in the past 100 years) and is buried deep in the labyrinthine jewellery quarter. Another great find is Abdulla Natural Products, an all-organic, natural cosmetic corner that sells the ultimate in pampering Turkish bathroom products think Conran design with traditional craftsmanship. So stunning is the modern packaging that you might think the products are rendered by machines, but Abdulla insists that everything from the soaps to the fabrics is 100% handmade. 12

13 After the Grand Bazaar, comes the very exciting Spice Bazaar, where the Turks have been doing their weekly shopping since This is the place to hunt for fragrant treasures such as dried apricots and mulberries, sacks of exotic spices, delicious rose-petal jam, love potions and the ultimate take-home gift Turkish delight in every flavour. Another great place for Turkish delight is Haci Bekir, a local institution squeezed into a glaring parade of international stores. Lokoum (Turkish delight) was invented in 1777 by Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir, a former chief confectioner at Topkapi Palace, and the brand is still a family business.open Min- Sat, The essentials Best escapes A boat trip along the Bosphorus is as essential a part of a visit to Istanbul as a stroll around the sights of Sultanahmet. The strait runs for 32 km from the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea, carrying bobbing fishing boats and thundering great freighters past mosques, palaces and many yali (aristocratic summer houses). If time is limited, take the public ferry from Eminönü opposite the Spice Market, stopping in Anadolu Kavagi on the north-eastern shore before the journey back. The six-hour round trip, zigzagging from one continent to the other, costs only 5 and during the three-hour lunch stop you can climb up to the ruins of a medieval Genoese castle and gaze out over the Black Sea. The other classic is the trip to the Princes Islands: nine islands stuck in a time warp of horse-drawn carriages, clapboard mansions, sandy coves and cool pine forests towards the mouth of the Black Sea. The trip takes 90 minutes from the quayside at Kabatas to Buyukada, the largest of the islands. Best reads Robinson Crusoe is an excellent bookshop close to Galatasaray Square for browsing or buying. Try The Bastard of Istanbul by Elif Shafak; The Book and the Roses: Sufi Women, Visibility and Zikr in Contemporary Istanbul by Catharina Raudvere and Byzantium: The Decline and Fall by John Julius Norwich. There are also several magazines that will give you a good insight into Turkish culture. 34 is an urban lifestyle magazine published by savvy socialite Murat Patavi. Cornucopia is a fabulous magazine featuring essays on everything Turkish from art to food. You can find both of them online. Best insider tip Please note that driving can be an erratic and aggressive affair so seat belts are absolutely necessary. Best avoided The Grand Bazaar on a Saturday afternoon is vastly overpopulated so go on a Wednesday or Thursday morning for room to view, or just before closing at 7.30 pm for the best chance to haggle your price down. On the move Time: GMT +2 Dialling code: Population: 13m Ataturk Airport Tourist Information Yesilkoy Tel: (0 212) Fax: (0 212)

14 What we can do for members in Istanbul Organise a shopping tour with American journalist Kathy Hamilton who has led several big-name European and US designers, architects, musicians and collectors through the labyrinth of Istanbul s bazaars and boutiques Book the 446 ft Savarona which is the biggest yacht in the world, once owned by Ataturk, founder of the modern republic, and used by both Prince Charles and the Sultan of Brunei Arrange a private dinner in the Sait Halim Pasha Waterside Mansion built in 1878 Organise an early evening cruise up the Bosphorus for sunset cocktails and fresh fish cooked in a traditional Turkish way Arrange a day exploring the Topkapi Palace with Ottoman Empire expert Professor John Freely and get permission to enter the underground vaults where the world s largest collection of china (outside China) is kept For a truly memorable experience, throw a private party in the Archaeological Museum, dining in a hall adjacent to Alexander the Great s tomb and dancing in the Hall of the Ancient Statues accompanied by a fantastic big band Arrange a 19th-century rowboat powered by 20 men to Kiz Kulesi, a 14th-century tower on the Bosphorus, for dinner Organise a traditional whirling dervish ceremony in the underground Basilica Cistern, an ancient water reservoir built in the sixth century Arrange an Ottoman dinner in the Beylerbeyi Palace, the summer palace of the Sultans Take you to the VIP section of Reina by boat for dancing until the early hours 14