IMPIAS. Limpias: Indelible Slides. Its Parador. That is how I want the days of my coast: with the sun blazing, and the waves quiet, very quiet.

Transcription

1 Limpias: Indelible Slides That is how I want the days of my coast: with the sun blazing, and the waves quiet, very quiet. L And IMPIAS Its Parador Jesús Cancio, Cantabrian poet ome 15,000 or 20,000 years have passed since that long ago S time when a tribe reached these Cantabrian valleys. In those days the tribes which travelled inland from the Cantabrian coast came in search of game. The climate was very cold, almost glacial, and they lived on big game: roe deer and wild boar. Their only means of defense were spears and other basic weapons. During battles and migrations, the greatest difficulty lay in transporting the children and elderly unused to such heretofore unknown temperatures: they were the holders of the sacred fire which would ensure them heat and hot meals. Inevitably, the youngest men defended the rearguard. They had to protect themselves from the powerful northeast wind, cold and damp. When they reached the sea they found that its waters were salty, and did not quench their thirst. But at some point they found food: fallow deer, game, and from the sea, seaweed and mussels. Then they discovered fire: fertile hearths for roasting game probably fallow deer and even an occasional bison. The fish, grilled golden brown in the embers, must have made them feel as if they were in paradise. Nor was it difficult for them to discover and find recesses, grottos, and caves in the rocks where they could set up their homes. After the first inhabitants of Santander, there came other tribes which had to fight the already established inhabitants in order to invade their territory. The area was called kent-áber, place by the sea. In the bay they fished in boats constructed from tar-covered skins stretched over willow brances. They lived in forts, and organized permanent sentry system to guard the coasts. They were very efficient and safe places. Nevertheless, nothing was enough: one day there came many, many invaders. They came wellequipped, armed with helmets and spears, and advancing to the sound of drums and trumpets. They even had machines to launch destructive stones. 1

2 They were no longer tribes, but very large armies fully equipped to destroy settlements that were brave and uncontrollable, but lacked the resources to defend themselves. Almost before the local people knew what had happened, the valley was soaked in blood. Rome had arrived, wellestablished arrogant conqueror of Europe. Navigation was organized: they started by mining and transporting tin and copper and even exported valuable malmsey and oil, to Gaul and to Britain. Many more years passed, and the land was under German rule, at the service of Catholic Rome. But around the year 711, news spread of the death of El Cid and the loss of that early peninsular nation. Pilgrims used many pilgrimage routes through Cantabria to reach Santiago (the Camino de Santiago). One was the coastal route, traveling Cantabria from west to east, using the ancient road built by Agrippa. Another path went up the Ebro river, continuing through the Besaya Valley, from south to north. The sea routes were heavily traveled, although there was always the threat of attack by Vikings or Normans, hence the Four Villas (Castro, Laredo, Santander, and San Vicente) were chartered ports which played an important role. Al Isidri used the maritime route in the 12th century. In the 11th and 12th centuries, the Vikings and Normans raided these coasts. For the port of San Emeterio, the danger ceased to come from the south, and began to arrive from the north, via the ocean. It is speculated that its fortifications were probably ordered by Alfonso I, precautionary measures to protect them from the Moorish cavalry. Alfonso VIII granted Santander a charter in 1187; he ordered the reconstruction of the city walls and the abbey. After that it was a city of the Crown, whose residents were free citizens, not subject to the feudal lords power. But it was the port which gave the city its importance, and where it showed its power. A significant expansion in trade during the 13th century lead to the strengthening of the Spanish navy in the next century. This is where the so-called Four Villas (Santander, San Vicente, Laredo, and Castro Urdiales) displayed their strength and power. Tough seafaring people, frequently whale hunters, they worked the sea hard, and established important shipyards. These were times of fleeting splendor. In Santander, the civil wars of the late Middle Ages divided families, creating violent confrontations. Enrique IV gave the city charter to the second Marquis of Santillana in 1466, which provoked a serious outburst of violence. Virtually this entire area enjoys, suffers and boasts of inexpressible vocations, all immensely rich. Some fish, others have their own idiosyncrasies such as unique arts and handicrafts, singular customs which are difficult to pass on. Above all, these peaceful residents only sin by cushioning the blow. Resigned but not at all mute, they say what they think, and think before speaking. They are a people rich in culture and a pleasant climate, frequently course, but extremely hospitable. They may boast of their own icons, or those appropriated from others, so much so that even the Holy Inquisition came to its authority in the matter of traditions of dubious orthodoxy. These villages are as rich as they are varied and distinct in innumerable everyday details. Only the traveler can distinguish between them. Eguilior Palace: Joyful Twilight Sorrows For Santander, the green civilized land of Santander, if it has an excess of anything, it is possibilities. Camilo José Cela he marines of the Brotherhood took part in the discovery of T America, providing naval technicians as well as money. Among the rough seamen of Cantabria, Juan de la Cosa is recognized as the greatest Spanish cartographer of the 15th century, and the most knowledgeable sailor in Spain. Christopher Columbus entrusted him with navigating the first voyage of discovery aboard the Santa María. In the end, it would be Felipe II who most benefited the city. It was the king himself who erected the episcopal see of Santander. In 1785 the consulate was born, on the orders of Carlos III. From that time all regional trade began to expand. The Peninsular War ruined these lands. But in the 19th century, Cantabria was reborn with flourishing maritime trade. The port of Santander was filled with ocean liners, and at the Magdalena Palace, the king and queen gave the city its most magnificent moments. In Cantabria everything begins and ends with the sea. 2

3 The villa of Limpias belongs to the eastern part of autonomous community of Cantabria. It was very important throughout the 15th century due to its location on the road to Burgos and its active port, famous for elver fishing. There still remain signs of those splendors: large houses and palaces, and the important port known as Ribero in the 16th century. From here ships departed for England and Flanders laden with iron from Cantabrian foundries and wood from its forests, and later, filled with Castilian wheat. Limpias commemorates this history today with a unique outdoor River Museum at the end of the riverwalk.. It is always open. The Parador de Limpias is located in Eguilior Palace, on the El Castañar Estate, a perfect spot for travelers seeking rest, relaxation and tranquility. The forested estate is an excellent example of the green Cantabrian landscape, and it just calls out to walkers. You do not need to be an ecologist to learn how to distinguish between the native tree species: hazelnuts, oaks and chestnuts together with reforested eucalyptus, accompanied by a wide variety of birds. Laredo and its magnificent beaches await swimming enthusiasts nearby, in the Bay of Biscay, so different from other bodies of water in color, temperature, and surf. The Bay of Biscay has been a luxury of kings, and it is still a luxury for present-day visitors. In the rough terrain of Cantabria, the joy of summer, brief and unique in nature, is clothed in cheerful abandon which captivates and touches by The Legend: The Weeping Christ T he legend started when, around 1919, various people believed they saw Christ weeping: The Christ of Limpias is weeping, I have seen Christ weeping. And so began the pilgrimage in search of a miracle. It is said that the faithful pilgrims began to arrive and that even today, after almost two centuries, they still come to pray and ask the famous Christ for help. Another key moment in local history was when Queen Isabel the Catholic and her daughter Juana passed through on their way to Laredo, where Juana was to take ship for France to be married. The palace of the Counts of Limpias displays coats of arms, towers, and balconies on its four floors. The House of the Picos is notable for its beauty. The valley of the Asón River starts in Colindres, and the river ascends to cut across the Ruega Valley and Alisas Pass to reach the El Miera region. Once again the landscape is the protagonist. The rias of Limpias, Rada, and Argoña are like arms defending against the tide. They create enormously lush microclimates which benefit the colonies of many and varied species of vertebrates and birds. Of the migrating birds, the spoonbills are the most admired. They arrive from Holland and make a stop here before continuing their long trip to Africa. The diving marine ducks are entertaining, and normally seek shelter in the inlets. Locals tell visitors that with patience, they can easily recognize the eider duck, a bird with black, white, and green feathers and an elegant, elongated profile its strangeness, in a country where souls, valleys, mountains and heavens alike wear a halo of sorrow, a dreamy twilight which seems infused with tears and clouds by the angel of melancholy. Concha Espina Limpias became famous and entered the history books during the Middle Ages because of its monastery. The solid stone building eventually later became part of the Velasco house. Juan de Velasco was the steward of King Enrique III, who held him in high esteem. In appreciation of his loyalty, he gave him the great gift of the Christ of Limpias. The sculpture shows the crucified Christ and dates from the 18th century. It is made from polychromed wood and said to be of Andalusian origin. A Short Walk to Ampuero T he town is famous for its running of the bulls during the festival of its patron saint, which has become very popular. Many people come to the Little San Fermines. The large vernacular houses are a highlight. The Espina Velasco palace tower is the most interesting, with an imposing façade and a four-story tower. Quite close to the villa is the Bien Aparecida shrine, containing an important 1734 altarpiece by Raimundo Vélez del Valle. The shrine attracts many visitors, and its virgin, the Bien Aparecida has become the patron saint of Cantabria.

4 Gastronomy: More Than Just A Lot In my ancestral home more sunny than others as without a roof the sun comes in at all hours. T Francisco de Quevedo, of Santander ancestry he significant support which the Cantabrians provided, sending men and ships to Guadalquivir to battle side by side with Fernando III s Castilians in 1248 in the reconquest of Seville created a firm bond which made Santander ever the port of Castile. They say that one of the consequences of this is that the Cantabrians speak the best Spanish of anyone in the coastal region. In Cantabria the sea is generous, the fishing abundant, and the catch of excellent quality. The Archpriest of Hita himself mentioned the red lobsters of Santander; the fresh or dried conger eel of Laredo and the salmon of Castro Urdiales. But what visitors praise the most are the Sardines: unforgettable. And the Sea Bream, Tuna, and Hake, and, above all, the Elvers. It can be said without exaggeration that they are excellent, with a mysterious touch of unique flavor. Cantabria is the second biggest fishing region of the peninsula, after Galicia. On the other hand, Santander is also noted for its livestock: there are tens of thousands of families whose livelihood is raising cattle, and many dairy farms. A good exhibition of this sector s strength is the Torrelavega Fair. Among the best-known specialties, freshly-caught fish is especially important all along the coast. Other favorites include Pollo Marinero (Sailor s Chicken) from Laredo; and from San Vicente de La Barquera, Hake, Sea Bream, and Sorropotún, Fisherman s Bonito Tuna and Potato Stew. And there are many more: Casseroles of Santoña, unforgettable Roasted Sardines, the Squid, Scorpionfish from Castro Urdiales, Snapper and Snails from San Andrés. The confectionay in Cantabria is magnificent. Residents of Santander are justly proud of their sweets: Sobado Pasiego, a small sponge cake; Pantortilla Puff Pastry; Quesada Cheese Pastry; Rosquilla Doughnuts from Reinosa; Pejinas from San Vicente, made with puff pastry and a sweet pumpkin filling, and many more. Among the most commended by outsiders are the Leche Frita, Fried Custard Squares, and Arroz con Leche, Rice Pudding, both sublime. Half a cup of white wine Olive oil and wine vinegar Parsley and salt Carefully clean the sardines, removing the heads and bones. In a saucepan, fry the garlic and add the sardines. Lightly fry over high heat, moving the pan. Moisten with wine and a little vinegar. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and leave to cook. SOBAOS One dozen eggs 750 grams sugar 750 grams butter 750 grams flour small cup of rum Beat the softened butter until it forms a frothy cream. Add the sugar and continue beating as you add the eggs one by one. Add the cognac and when it is very frothy, sift the flour and fold it in with a spatula. Fill paper molds halfway and bake at 170C for 20 minutes.laredo Laredo is one of the most noteworthy cities of Cantabria, and like most And the Cheeses are magnificent. Experts say that Cantabria is one of the paradises for Spanish cheese. The reason for this is that there are a variety of climates and micro-climates, different types of livestock, and a landscape which creates many isolated pastures. This leads to the great diversity of cheese production. Cheese with a Cantabrian denominación de origen is made with pasteurized milk from Friesian cows. THE SECRET RECIPE YOUNG SARDINE CASSEROLE Two dozen young sardines or anchovies Two cloves garlic

5 Exceptional Excursions Cantabrian cities, it has prehistoric origins. It was considered the main port of the mountains. But as the years passed, the port of Santander became more important. Laredo s Old Town is a beautiful historic quarter which is a delight to take a relaxed stroll through. The church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is the heart of Laredo, and a visit to its beautiful interior is recommended. It is a Gothic jewel with four naves, the result of a series of modifications throughout its history. The City Hall, built in 1562, has a Renaissance appearance. It is a regionalist building, displaying the city s coat of arms and an 18th-century clock. It has three arches with balconies, and just opposite is the House of the Mar family, proudly displaying an ashlar façade, with coat of arms and beautiful wroughtiron balconies. Laredo offers the extensive fine-sand beaches of Salve and Regatón, without a doubt, one of its top attractions. At approximately four kilometers, Salve Beach is the longest beach in Cantabria. Castro Urdiales Castro Urdiales came into existence during the upper Paleolithic, about 12,000 years before Christ. Proof of this are the caves of Cuco, which became the Roman Flavióbriga many years later. It has always been a favorite summer spot for Bilbao residents. Santoña: Berría beach and the marshes This beach that you see, eyes, the great mother of sand, the solitary ember, pale and silent... In the third year, in the third dream you returned, to the third feather pen, to the third shell of solitude, to the third tear. José Hierro Marshes: The marshes have been declared a national refuge for sea birds. They contain interesting zooplankton with an enormous variety of fish. Highlights include filtering shellfish: cockles, clams, baby clams...and among the vertebrates, mallard ducks and the common coot. The Santoña Estuary is immense, with an area of 3,500 hectares. Its most important function, as with most wetlands, is to serve as a necessary stopping place for many sea birds. Santander: Heart Of The Sea Heart of the humbling Bay of Biscay, pools of blood form in you, square of the course and of the rose, sheet and pillow of the keel. Gerardo Diego If the traveler is not too pressed for time, you should not rule out a visit to Santander. This beautiful city rightfully boasts of its Sardinero beach, whose fine sand guarantees a pleasant swim. We recommend a stroll down the Paseo Pereda, the boundary between the city and the sea, and one of the most beautiful and best-tended gardens of our coastal cities. Those who enjoy good food must visit the Puerto Chico. Choosing a fish in these parts is a real ritual, and always a celebration. At Magdalena Palace, Verano University is always operating. It was the gift given by the residents of Santander to the king and queen for their summer stays in the city. The Cathedral, erected between the 13th and 14th centuries, has 5

6 two superimposed structures in a Gothic style. Our attention is drawn to the Romanesque Crypt of Christ, where the relics of Saint Emeterio and Saint Celedonio are venerated. If your are curious about the historic quarter of the city, remember that Santander suffered an enormous fire in 1941, leaving no trace of the old city. Porticada Square betrays the noticeable influence of Herrera. For many years it was the site of the city s Music and Dance Festivals. The Santander Casino is delightful, relaxed, and filled with character. This magnificent balcony overlooking the sea is an excellent option, and has a comfortable restaurant. The avant-garde Santander Festival Building overlooks the bay. It hosts many events: opera, theater, conventions, and more. For the most inquisitive, and museum lovers, we recommend the highly original Maritime Museum of Cantabria. It is modern in both construction and content, with collections dedicated to the sea since the 18th century. Important institutions, such as the Nautical School of the City, the Free Institute for Teaching, and the Spanish Institute of Oceanography made contributions. The Regional Museum of Prehistory and Archeology has one of the most valuable Paleolithic collections in Europe. Cantabria From Parador To Parador For those Parador guests who have time to continue enjoying Cantabria, please remember that there are two other Paradors in the autonomous community: Santillana del Mar and Fuente Dé, in the mountains. Parador de Santillana del Mar A visit to the Parador de Gil Blás in Santillana del Mar is interesting in itself, but there are also a number of other tourist destinations nearby. There are beach towns such as Suances and Cóbreces; universities and Gaudi Caprices in Comillas; nearby artistic destinations such as Quevedo, Sigüenza, Viveda, and Novales; and natural destinations such as Oyambre Nature Reserve. Parador de Fuente Dé History has passed through the weather-beaten laborer, civilization slips over the mountain shepherd shrouded in fog. Unamuno A Parador with magnificent views, near the Picos of Europe Mountains. The Parador de Fuente Dé is a perfect base for active tourism, adventure and excitement, or for peaceful, contemplative walks. The Parador s professionals can provide you with information about a wide selection of activities to please any guest: mountain biking, abseiling, horseback riding, spelunking, and more. Text: Juan G. D Atri and Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar Parador de Limpias Fuente del Amor,s/n Limpias (Cantabria) Tel.: Fax: limpias@parador.es Reservation Center Requena, Madrid (España) Tel.: Fax: / reservas@parador.es 6