CHINCHÓN. History decrees, but nobility obliges. And Its Parador. My walls, they are of fire.

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1 History decrees, but nobility obliges My walls, they are of fire. Mudejar Proverb CHINCHÓN And Its Parador T he very noble and very loyal city of Chinchón is probably the shortest and most concentrated compendium of the history of Spain since the country s most remote origins. From prehistoric times until the last Civil War, Chinchón has served as an exceptional backdrop for the theatre of our cultures and civilizations, a museum and stage for the best laughter and the bitterest tears. These fertile lands of Vega de Tajuña have been coveted since the beginning of time and many are the peoples who have passed through or settled here. The earliest recorded inhabitants belonged to the Neolithic era and lived, or rather took shelter, in some of the many caves that can still be seen in the area. One of them, known as La Cueva de la Mora, is right here in Chinchón. Remains of an Iberian settlement have also been found on the hill known as El Salitral. Even today, you only have to scratch the surface of the ground to uncover pieces of the clay tools and utensils used by the Iberians. Visitors, however, are asked to refrain from confirming this fact. Another thing that is easy to prove is the presence of the Roman colonizers and the mark they left. It is likely that their camps stretched from neighboring Titulcia to Chinchón. The remains include the following inscription: Emilius Faustus, while still alive, had this made for his most pious and indulgent wife Emilia and himself. (Inscription on a Roman tombstone) During the long period of Moorish occupation, Chinchón belonged to the kingdom of Toledo. Then, in the mid-11th century Fernando I conquered the territory for the Christian cause. Soon after, Alfonso VI would consolidate this victory with the definitive recovery of all the territories between today s Talavera de la Reina and Madrid. After many ups and downs, revolts, conquests, and re-conquests, the town was finally brought into the Christian dominion by the feats and grace of Alfonso VII. Chinchón was repopulated by people from Segovia, mainly shepherds. Their lands were divided into quiñones. It was about this time, during the reign of Enrique IV, that Chinchón was granted town status. For quite some time it became a refuge and place of leisure for the more or less rebellious and powerful nobility. But following the death of Enrique IV, the Catholic Monarchs gave Chinchón to the Cabrera-Boadilla family to rule, freeing it from the jurisdiction of the shepherds of Segovia: We grant you grace and favor, with civil and criminal justice and jurisdiction both high and low And all taxes, rights, punishments, and calumnies, and anything else belonging to these places so that they may belong to you and to your heirs History and time sped forward to the Renaissance with its art, but also its wars and rebellions: the Comuneros rebellion against Carlos V reached even Chinchón. In the mid-16th century, the estate of Chinchón was CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR 1

2 granted the title of countship by the grace of Emperor Carlos V. From that time onwards, Chinchón would continue as a countship. In the Wars of Succession, it was always on the side of the Borbons. The War of Independence also reached the town, with disastrous results. All this happened by chance, according to the records: and killed and another two were stoned to death. But one managed to escape and warn the French troops entrenched in Aranjuez. And so the French returned with a desire for revenge, vengeance, and plunder. Even today, there is a monument known as the Columna de los Franceses (Column of the French) in the main square as a reminder of the story. In about 1808, a party of French soldiers came through Chinchón. As they were crossing the square, someone said they were fleeing. Two of them were shot Augustine Monastery and Pilgrims Parador A he traveler visiting for the first time, possibly by chance, will almost certainly ask the question: is this place, this Parador, this town, real? It all looks more like a stage erected for the benefit of the outsider, almost always from another country. However, nothing could be further from the truth, even though the air of fantasy pervades the town, accompanying us wherever we go. Everyone from Chinchón knows that there are spirits and ghosts all around: They have always been in the caves [prehistoric ruins] and they always will be in the castle and all around here. The locals have been saying the same for centuries. But the town s story is different now, although it does not lack legends not yet forgotten by the oldest inhabitants. The Parador which you are visiting today sits on the site of a monastery built by Augustinian monks in the 17th century. The lords of Chinchón founded this religious community at the end of the 15th century and installed the first monks here under the protection of the castle, outside the town walls. In 1626, the Order of Calced Augustinians obtained the necessary papal bulls and licenses to override their prohibition, as decreed by Felipe IV. They were able to move from the old location to a group of houses, which some years later was converted into a monastery. The council donated one hundred ducats towards its construction, a large sum at the time. During the War of Independence, Napoleon decreed that the convents and monasteries of Spain be conquered. But it was his brother Joseph Pepe Botella who decided to extend this measure and order the closure of all religious institutions and the expulsion of members of the orders, seizing all the property held in monasteries and convents. On March 19, 1812, the anniversary of Fernando VI s coronation, the Constitution was solemnly enacted by the Assembly of Cádiz. It was not until September of that year, once the town had been freed from the French, that the people of Chinchón could swear an oath to the Constitution in a ceremony held in this very monastery. The town archives show that the ceremony included a solemn mass and, after the Gospel, a priest read out the full text of the Constitution so that it would be known to the people. The members of the town council and all the people of the town then swore before the mayor to uphold and have upheld the Constitution of the Spanish Monarchy as approved by the General Assembly and the extraordinary assemblies of the Nation, and to be loyal to the King. The Augustinian monks who had been expelled from Chinchón would eventually return to their monastery. Under an order 2 CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR

3 issued by Fernando VII in 1914, they were able to recover all the property that had previously been taken from them. It was about this time that the convent was turned into an academic and cultural center. The study of Theology, Latin, and the Humanities gained prestige here and drew a large following of students. But bad times were to return as a result of the law calling for the confiscation of religious property (1837). The state seized the monastery. Five years later it was ceded to the town council by the regent, Count Luis María de Borbón. This is how it became the home of the law courts and jail. To add insult to injury, over the course of its history, the monastery has also suffered several fires. The most recent, in 1929, left the building in ruins. Thanks to the miraculous work of the architect Juan Palazuelo, the building has recovered its original baroque appearance and Renaissance features. Two stories surround the central cloister, connected by two staircases. The rooms lead off this central area. It is inevitable that recent important figures have passed through the Parador. Tina Turner stayed here not long ago and brought the crowds with her. Luis Eduardo Aute is said to have been inspired by the Parador and monastery to write his song Templo ( Temple ). Chinchón has also served as a discreet meeting place for politicians and businesspeople throughout its history. Finally, in 1973 the Chinchón town council donated what little was left of the monastery to the state. After a skilled and laborious restoration, it became the Parador we see today. City and Stage for History Plaza Mayor (Main Square). Castle. La Cadena House. Lope de Vega Theater. Asunción Church. Clock tower. Inmaculada Concepción Monastery. Shrine of San Roque CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR 3

4 A wide and varied cuisine N obody here will claim to offer exclusive recipes or exquisite and mysterious dishes. On the contrary, the local people humble, yet still proud almost warn you that around here they eat what comes from around here: beans, lamb, desserts, and good wines. these plains: Swiss chard, asparagus, eggplant, and fresh and dried beans; and Spanish omelets with any sort of filling imaginable, especially vegetables: asparagus, beans, peas, zucchini, or artichoke. Also not to be overlooked are some more substantial dishes. Chinchón can offer Lamb as you like it, Goat, and, of course, Chinchoneta Beans. Sometimes there is Rabbit, Hare, Partridge, or Oxtail. However, the visitor will soon find that reality truly surpasses the modesty of the inhabitants: many excellent restaurants in Chinchón offer an extensive and varied menu. Of course, the most important dishes of the Castilian Meseta are always to be found here, and dishes and recipes from the two Castiles. There is also a good selection of the best the capital of the kingdom has to offer. The origins of Chinchón s cuisine go back at least as far as the time of the Moors. Historians claim that these lands were always good for olive-growing, for pastureland, and for vegetables. Some even claim that the famous Madrid cocido (chickpea stew) actually originated in this area, although this is extremely difficult to prove. What is certain is that Chincón has overcome the French culinary influence imposed by the courtiers who traveled through here to the royal residence in Aranjuez. In 1876, Doctor Thebussen even wrote to King Alfonso XII s master chef complaining that such a Castilian monarch allowed his language not to be used for dishes served at his banquets Garlic. The visitor can try most of these dishes, and more, at the Parador, choosing from a menu that always includes a dozen substantial dishes which are guaranteed to be good. There may be, for examples, dishes made with Fresh Vegetables, either blanched, boiled, or stuffed; and in winter a restorative Suckling Lamb stew with Chinchón The Parador offers visitors the opportunity to enjoy two different restaurants: El Convento, with a theme every weekend; and El Bodegón, where we offer a winter menu featuring the oldest and most traditional dishes from Madrid, including traditional Chickpea Stew served in two courses; and for summer, a menu with the theme: The Cuisine of the Plain. There are many other dishes, such as a Potatoes a la importancia (with river crab), many of which feature the healthy accompaniment of Chinchón Garlic, an integral part of the finest cuisine. Whatever some may say, when in Chincón, depending on the season, the Garlic Soups must not be missed. (When combined with local Chinchón bread, they are quite a different thing.) Nor should Vigilia Potage (in which cod takes on a whole new meaning) or seasonal specialties such as snails and wild mushroom be neglected. Then there are the many vegetables grown in Desserts are many and varied. The area can also offer some excellent wines. And at last, after dessert, the visitor should do the honor of ordering a glass of straight Chinchón Anisette. Or if it is very dry, ask for a glass with lots of ice. You will be sipping, rather than drinking, a refreshing beverage from the early 20th century: you will be having an authentic Pajarita. Travels among castles, luxury, and excess xcursions from Chinchón? There is everything you could E possibly desire, as much as time and your stamina will allow. Chinchón is in the center of the center of the country. It was not by chance that the Romans settled in nearby Titulcia, or that they decided to make it the crossroads of routes to and from Toledo and Segovia, and en route to Cesaraugusta through what is today Alcalá de Henares, or to Mérida. As the centuries passed, history would eventually confirm Madrid s essential centrality. In 1561, Felipe II finally decided to make Madrid the official capital of all Spain. From that point onwards, the reigning monarchs became much more settled and less interested in wars. With time they became more inclined towards other forms of government, where politics gave marketing a try in the form of courtly protocol; where luxury, excess, and other devotions were at the service of the imperial image. It was precisely for this reason that the so-called Reales Sitios (royal residences) were born. This is the first excursion we would recommend to the visitor: 4 CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR

5 A little to the south is Aranjuez. It was first built by the Emperor Carlos V on land that had belonged to the Order of Saint James. Towards the north is El Escorial. Other, relatively minor, residences are: La Zarzuela, La Granja and El Pardo. They all had everything needed for the court s activities: hunting grounds, gardens for strolling, and chapels for prayer. Naturally, each one was more or less suited to a particular time of year, or the needs and customs of the moment. Travelers and chroniclers from the 18th century wrote of the courtiers festive excursions: At the beginning of the year, the court leaves for El Pardo, where it spends the harsh winter, returning to Madrid for Holy Week Their Majesties then move to Aranjuez, where spring is beautiful. The estate is fertile with abundant hunting in delightful surroundings. From here they move to Valsaín (La Granja). The court spends the summer in this isolated, pleasant palace, until the middle of October, when it returns to El Escorial. As soon as the first snow falls upon the roof of this enchanted monastery, the court moves back to Madrid (Cristóbal del Hoyo Solórzano, Madrid from the Inside, 1745) The Route of the Castles If you have time, the route of the castles is extremely interesting. It is difficult to organize just one route from the Parador to see all the twenty or so castles that have defended the Community of Madrid in the past and continue to leave their mark on the area today. Each could be a separate excursion, or several can be grouped together. To the north, some distance away, is Buitrago Castle. The building is Spanish Mudejar in style, and built on what was originally an Arab site. Its seven towers and three side walls protect the fortified enclosure. There is a magnificent 15th-century castle in Manzanares el Real, also some distance from the Parador. The designer and supervisor of Villaviciosa de Odón Castle was Juan de Herrera, who was also chosen by Felipe II to build the monastery/palace/mausoleum of his entire dynasty, El Escorial, and some that followed. There is still a large four-story tower in Arroyomolinos Castle, to the south of the city of Madrid. Batres is also relatively close to the Parador and has a 15th-century castle with an imposing tower and attractive walls. Its unique well is said to recall certain verses by the immortal Garcilaso de la Vega, who was, apparently, the brother of the original owner. Casasola Castle must not be forgotten. More than an excursion, this is a stroll between Titulcia and Chinchón. It is an interesting fortification, although today only a few ruins of its glorious past remain, including a stone bridge and fosse with a courtyard inside. It is said that there was a passageway to the other side of the hill so that the privileged few would be able to escape in the event of an enemy siege, whether it be Moorish or Christian. Parador de Chinchón Avda. del Generalísimo, Chinchón (Madrid) Tel.: Fax: chinchon@parador.es Central de Reservas Requena, Madrid (España) Tel.: Fax: / reservas@parador.es wap.parador.es/wap/ Textos: Miguel García Sánchez Dibujos: Fernando Aznar CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR 5