Bangladesh through the Eye of a Beholder

Transcription

1 Bangladesh through the Eye of a Beholder Shamika Shabnam A scorching red circle etched on a tapestry of bottle green, the national flag of Bangladesh symbolises valour, sacrifice and the rising sun in the cradle of Mother Nature. Like every nation, our flag metaphorically bears the vast wonders of our country through each interwoven strand of red and green. Amidst this red and green harmony lies the weaving of dappled beauty: a panorama which speaks not only words, but recites sheer poetry. This is the sensation I had experienced through aerial view minutes before my aircraft landed in Bangladesh. I, a Bangladeshi, had returned to my homeland after spending a vastly countable number of years overseas. Hatirjheel at Night 37

2 The visible stretch of panoramic greenery recited its unseen mysteries to me as I explored it from the window of my aircraft the silver waters of the deshi rivers, paddy fields, generous streaks of sugarcane, bamboo and banana bushes, the munching of guavas and hog-plums, the tongue-teasing wood apples, the pulpy jackfruits, the archaeology, the monuments, lush green tea gardens on never-ending terrains, forests and wildlife, local species, beaches, resorts, wood-fired curry nights, the fragrance of locality these are but a few of my nation s mysteries. Mysteries hidden amidst the aerial greenery, a Aparajeyo Bangla Curzon Hall 38

3 slight smudge of resplendent beauty. Mysteries which I had yet to unravel. National Martyrs Memorial The faintly smudged beauty started to mould into a clear vision of emerald green as the aircraft floated down the runway. Back then I was a lady in my early twenties, but at that moment when the aircraft touched the ground with a gentle thud, I felt no older than a small child. A child who had returned to her home ground. A child desperate to grab a handful of soil and deeply inhale its peace, embrace its nostalgia, engulf its history the land and its origins. This patriotic vision was just that, a vision that did not enter reality due to the airport s hustle and bustle of collecting my luggage, undergoing security checks and recognising long-seen relatives, such as my paternal uncle Najib Fupa who had generously arrived at the airport to receive my family and me. Hazrat Shahjalal Anthōrjatik Bimanbōndōr (International Airport) is the largest airport in Bangladesh located in Kurmitola in northern Dhaka. With a soulful merging of age-old architecture with marble hallways and pristine clean lobbies, the airport embodied Bangladesh s blend of tradition with pioneering Bangabanghu Bridge 39

4 modernity. The healing noise of the monsoon rain was music to my ears. The capricious raindrops poured endlessly on my sari-clad body as I stood there in the middle of a wooden walkway leading to a glistening river. With my arms wide open, head held high, eyes staring at the cloudy sky I welcomed the effervescent rain waters. I allowed it to seep into the depths of my soul, to replenish my spirit, therapeutic contemplation Shamika Shomik I felt a mild shudder as I came out of my dream, only to find myself in a car while my mother repeatedly called my name. A kind-hearted soul, my mother smiled and told me that I was gazing at the pouring rain from the car-window with such concentration, that I had hardly heard her speak. Lost in the glory of monsoon it nearly slipped my mind that I had just arrived from the airport. After a quick few seconds of silence, my mother said that we were going to tour around some parts of Dhaka before going to mama s (my uncle s) house, where we were to stay during our time in the city. First up on our itinerary was Aparajeyo Bangla. Paharpur, Naogaon Terracotta at Bihara 40

5 Knowing a place is like knowing a person, you need to interpret, comprehend, listen, acknowledge and communicate. Then perhaps you will understand the true meaning of its name, its identity. This is precisely what had happened when I was told that we were going to see the sculpture by the name of Aparajeyo Bangla. To me it was just a name. I was told that Aparajeyo Bangla is the English equivalent of Invincible Bengal. I remember going through the campus of Dhaka University inside which this sculpture stands in front of the Faculty of Arts Building. Belonging to the field of Arts myself, I took a keen interest in the sculpture. I moved closer to it, by then the pouring rain had subsided into gentle showers. I stood in front of the sculpture: three figures, bold, strong and dignified, were standing in a posture so empowering yet contained, it mesmerized me I, a human flesh of average height, stood in front of three colossal monuments Silence from both ends. I stared at the male figure in the centre. With chiselled muscles and broad shoulders, this was the statue of a farmer. History has it that he exemplifies the large number of general masses, farmers and labourers who fought for the nation with unswerving loyalty during the 1971 Liberation War. He is portrayed with a rifle placed on his right shoulder and a grenade on his left hand, both of which evoke significant connotations of war. On his left is a female figure, clad in a modestly pleated sari with a first aid kit strapped around her left shoulder, the kit resting about a centimetre below her right hip. She represents a nurse who unwaveringly healed the wounded participants of the war. On the farmer s left is the statue of a male A majestic Royal Bengal Tiger 41

6 42 Golpata (Nypa fruiticans) grows abundantly along the creeks of the Sundarbans

7 youth clasping a rifle symbolizing the heroic wartime youths. The youth is shirtless, which epitomizes intrepid, zealous youngsters flocking with rifles, bare-footed, wearing a pair of earth-smeared pants, rushing towards the war zone amidst a cacophony of bullets. I am a youth of the postcolonial era, in the colonial era I was but a ghostly shadow...non-existent... yet this scene of the 1970s is clearly embedded in my mind. Etched in my memory. Engraved in my soul. A miraculous rendition of time and space? Probably. A panoramic view of Kaptai Lake, Rangamati Gentle drops of rain continued to pour. I saw rainwater trickling down the three figures. Then it struck me. Aparajeyo Bangla is not a mere sculpture that commemorates the glory of liberation. It is a personification of eternity. It is not in need of rainwater to cleanse it, for it is an image of rebirth, rejuvenation and innovation placed in front of an avant-garde faculty. It delineates martyrdom for the sake of a new, decolonized Bangladesh. Then how can I say that Invincible Bengal is just a transparent name? St. Martin a Coral Island at the Southern most tip of Bangladesh Sea Beach at Kuakata 43

8 Fishing at sea beach With this rhetorical question in mind, we took off for Curzon Hall, a massive, dusky red structure created during the era of the British Raj and home to the Faculty of Science at Dhaka University. After basking in the ambience of the Hall s Mughal and European architecture blended with traditional artistry, we left for the Shahid Minar (Martyr s Monument). About half a kilometre away from Curzon Hall, the Shahid Minar was erected in memory of the Martyrs of the Bengali Language Movement (Bhasha Andolōn), a 1970s political movement which held up the recognition of Bengali as the official language of former East Pakistan (present day Bangladesh). We slowly drove past the monument, so all I was able to catch was a mere glimpse of it. Through that fleeting glimpse I saw the minar s calm whiteness bearing a stark contrast to the scorching red disk embellished behind the central white frame. Within the monument s silence lied the piercing cries of Joy Bangla. Within the monument s bare whiteness resided several alphabets of the Bengali lilt, engraved by the sacrificed lives of the nation s valiant martyrs. What intrigued me was how a solid, silent monument marked the screeches, cries and slogans of the countless martyrs. Strength in stillness words in silence depth in a fleeting moment. Savar Early next morning we hopped on a hired micro bus for our trip to Sirajganj, a District in Northern Bangladesh and home to my late paternal grandparents. As we had started our journey, my sister Shudipta (Shudy) got busy looking at the map of Bangladesh on her Smartphone. She was learning the native names of the various districts and Sub-districts that our country holds. She told me that Sirajganj is about a 128 km away from Dhaka, if we take the direct route via Tangail: a town located on the 44

9 A few five star Hotels in Dhaka banks of the astounding Louhajang River within the Dhaka Division. I am not much of a map and coordinates person myself. I am a nature lover and its all landscapes and sceneries for me. This was no different two years ago. I started to observe the passing views from the driven car and came to know that we had arrived at a Subdistrict called Savar (a 40 minute drive from Dhaka) to see the Jatiyo Sriti Shoudho (National Martyr s Memorial). The monument remembers the martyrs of the 1971 war of liberation. It had a unique structure and lied adjacent to a lake. The quivering image of the monument was reflected in the lake while the celestial blue sky back-dropped its attraction. We didn t get a chance to stop at this site for long, because we had planned to reach Sirajganj before dusk. Our active chauffeur continued to drive without wavering and soon enough we arrived at the entrance point of the Bangabandhu Bridge. Bangabandhu Bridge-Sirajganj The Bangabandhu Bridge was opened in With a whopping length of 4.8 km, the bridge connects Bhuapur on the Jamuna River s east to Sirajganj on the west bank. As we drove across the bridge I opened the car-window, closed my eyes, and engulfed the exuberance of the gentle breeze on my face. The wind blew my wavy black hair as the sun kissed my rouged cheeks. After sometime, I slowly opened my eyes again and stared at the pure waters of the Jamuna. Far into the depths of the river, I caught a hazy glimpse of a small traditional river boat heading towards the bridge heading towards us. As I tried to scrutinize the boat with partially closed eyes, I remembered my own boat experience in I was only eight years of age, thrilled to visit my paternal homeland: a large house with rooftops made of undulating sheets of silver tin. We hired a small engine boat which took us from Bhuapur to Sirajganj through the whimsical Jamuna waters. I can still feel the adventurous tremor when I think of the boat ride. Jamuna was calm and composed when the boat started its journey, but as soon as we entered the profound depths of the river, she started to roar. The feisty waters, the furious waves, rain pouring heavily the boat vehemently rocked from side to side. I still remember clutching my mother s hand. She did her best to console me by saying that we will get through this. My ma s wave of encouragement provided me the strength to face the fervent waves of Jamuna. Minutes before we had reached our destination, the waters found peace. Never have I experienced waters so keen to help a girl and her family cross over to their native village I came out of my flashback, we drove off the bridge. As we drove on I looked 45

10 Tourists at Cox s Bazar sea beach behind to take a good glance at the developed structure of the Bridge. While looking back, I saw a forward-looking nation. Bogra After enjoying the ever-lasting greenery of my paternal home village, we took off for Bogra, which is one of the oldest towns in northern Bangladesh and is only about 76 km from Sirajganj. Our aim was to tour the extensive ruins of the Mahasthangarh (Excellent Fort), which is known to be the earliest archaeological sites in Bengal. The ruins of this site portray a glorious past of the 3 rd century B.C in Pudranagar, the capital city of ancient Pundra Vardhan Bhukti. The site spreads along the western bank of Korotoa and is situated in Shibganj Thana of the Bogra District. As per archaeological evidence, Mahasthangarh encompasses the spanning of several centuries starting from the Mauryans, the Guptas, the Palas and later the feudal Hindu rulers. This showcases a historical, almost histrionic blend of ancient-medievalism. Due to its history, the area endorses the fragments of multiple religions, namely the richness of Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam. For an experience of the inevitable past full of culture, tradition, customs and religiosities, visit the ruins of Mahasthangarh. I was enamoured by the greenery commingled with the fort s chalk-red and brown brickwork. I still remember receiving a generous dose of knowledge by a Spanish tourist by the name of Marco, who was profoundly examining Pebbles on the beach 46

11 Fishing boats at Teknaf sea beach the vast number of prehistoric carvings that the site had to offer. With the desire to know what he felt about our nation s touristic locations, I struck a conversation with him. He happened to be a Lecturer in History at a university in Spain. I still remember that his project involved the forgotten ruins of the world. He told me that due to his over ambitious temperament, he had travelled all the way to explore the ruins of Mahasthangarh. I sought enlightenment as the gentlemen spoke about the site in great detail. That is when I came to discover that together with the ancient and medieval ruins, the mazhar (holy tomb) of Shah Sultan Balkhi Mahisawar was built at the site of a Hindu temple. Furthermore, the fortified area was in use till the 18 th century. I felt culturally enriched as Marco continued speaking about the site s Govinda Bhita Temple and the Buddhist Vihara. Simultaneously, I realized how little I knew about my country. This wasn t only a history lesson but a life lesson: exploring the surface of an entity without knowing its underlying story is like judging a person by his appearance, you never get the full picture. With this adage in mind, we returned to Sirajganj and dedicated the day to meeting various relatives from my father s side. My mother and paternal aunts (fupis and chachis) made all arrangements to cook a Fancy items are made from oyster shells 47

12 delicious feast for the entire family: pilau rice, Bengali white chicken curry (murgir rezaala), potato fritters (alur chop) were all on the menu. That evening was also a sweet one filled with memories of pretzel-shaped sweets soaked in sugar syrup (jilapis) and steamed traditional cakes with fillings of jaggery (bhapa pitha), of which we had generous helpings. The next morning I had to bid adieu to Sirajganj as we were heading for Khulna, a town on the south by the gracious Bay of Bengal. I even had to bid farewell to the hired micro bus as it was going to be a train journey from thereon. I cannot explain the thrill that went up my spine at that moment. Khulna Karnafuli Bridge Chittagong The train went from Sirajganj to Iswardi: a railway junction located in the Pabna District. From there we had to switch trains in order to arrive at Khulna. We were required to wait on the platform for quite a while as the train to Khulna was delayed. This gave me the chance to explore Iswardi, one of the oldest and largest railway stations in Bangladesh. I observed the swift mobility of passengers rushing to get to their destinations. The rush, the train whistles, the coming and going of trains just like any other busy station of the world Iswardi did not cease to impress me. As I was munching away on Potato Crackers (deshi chips/crisps) and sipping Coca-Cola out of a glass bottle, our train had arrived at its designated platform to take us to Khulna. We were travelling throughout the night. Sleeping was not on my list as I enjoyed the pitch-black landscape meshed in with the continuous tataktatak of the train. We arrived at Khulna around early dawn. A local officer came to receive us from the railway station. Khulna was a neat and clearly signposted city. The light purple sky mixed with the jittery orange of the rising sun harmoniously corresponded with the city s tranquillity. After our tour of the city, we had a fabulous dinner at the residence of the Khulna Divisional Commissioner who was known to me as Yunus Uncle. His warmth, hospitality and interest in my ambition in life are memories that are here to stay. After dinner, my parents, sister, and I stayed at the Khulna Guest House. They say that a holiday in Bangladesh is never complete without visiting the Sundarbans (Beautiful Forests). That is precisely where we were headed to at the glimmer of dawn. A shade of light caramel with a blend of orange, partially hidden under the soft mist of the blue sky. This is a description of the emerging sun of the early morning, the most favourable time to visit the Sundarbans: the largest mangrove forest in the world, sixty percent of which is located in south-west Bangladesh, having the remaining forty percent spanning across a portion of India. This forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site, covers 1400 sq. km out of which 490 km is water. It lies in the vast delta on the Bay of Bengal formed by the super confluence of the Ganges, Padma, Brahmaputra and Meghna rivers across southern Bangladesh. 48

13 Come to the Land that Beckons Come to the land that beckons Come to the land that awaits Awaits your shadow lines at the threshold of the Lalbagh Fort Awaits your camaraderie with Mainamati Awaits your solidarity with the remains of flourishing Buddhism Step into the vicinity of the Shahid Minar Observe the zeal of scorching red The lost lives The sacrifices The Mother Tongue All embedded in the muted monument Celebrate in the land of religious diversity Absorb the splendid façade of the Sixty Domed Mosque Rejoice inner peace at Kantaji Temple Seek monumental delight at pristine churches Experience the soulful merging of Art and Culture Capture the pied beauty of the Alapana The taste of honey sweet rock candies The essence of tribal tradition Come to the land that beckons Come to the land that awaits adventure, and the serenity of the Sundarbans, you need to delve deep into the swamps on a three-or four-day boat trip. The most accessible of these are the country tour boats (noukas) from Khulna, rowed by a couple of local boatmen, or one could enjoy the fast mobility of an engine boat grazing through the mellow waters. The latter was what one of the Upazila Nirbahi (Sub-district Executive) Officers, Mehedi Uncle had arranged for our tour. The serene landscape of country green, white -bellied-sea eagles flying across the river, the calls and chirps of a host of birds, sometimes the trickle of light showers, other times a reasonable breeze, creeping through the canals the boat ride to the maize of the bans was an adventure on its own. My thirst for knowledge made me ask Mehedi Uncle if there were any other routes through which one could reach the Sundarbans, he said that trips are also organised from a small river port. Shamika Shabnam The Sundarbans is named after the Sundari (beauty) tree, which is indigenous to this forest. It is a true saying that to really experience the thrill of an The ceramic hills 49

14 The boat came to a slow pause as we arrived at the shores of the bans. It was a quiet, peaceful region, with tall green trees and urbane leaves: I personified these as nature s disciples extending their warm welcome to us. My eyes wandered hither and thither as I searched for the wondrous creatures of the Sundarbans that I had heard of so much. We walked. Five minutes had passed. No animals around Within the spur of a second I saw an exquisite spotted creature spring by in a swift motion. I went closer to its direction. Flaky white spots adorning its majestic golden pelt, glaring eyes: big, brown, almost naïve and childlike it was a deer that had dazzled me with its beauty. As the deer and I stood there, a few more of the former s friends joined us. There were about four of them. My sister and I were told that we could feed the deer Potato Crackers if we wished. As I was feeding the lovely creatures, my father clicked a photo of me I had my hair tied in a pony tail, I was smiling, with a bright green bag of deshi chips on my hand. What caused a form of levity at that point was the fact that I ate the same brand of chips during my journey to Khulna. My sister ceaselessly enjoyed the little act performed by a couple of mocking monkeys that were clapping their hands and teasing each other. Birds of variegated colours flew across the bans. While bonding with the deer, I wondered whether I would be able to see any tigers around. There were signs that read: 50

15 Ahsan Manzil Magnificent palace of the Nawabs of Dhaka, on the bank of the river Buriganga Tiger Zone: Beware, but Mehedi Uncle confidently stated that tigers are mostly found in the very depths of the forest. The Sundarbans is the natural habitat of the world s most famous Royal Bengal Tiger, spotted deer, estuarine crocodiles, jungle fowl, a variety of dolphins, wild boar, flap-shelled spotted turtles, green turtles and foraging monkeys. It is home to at least 330 plant species, 315 bird species, 49 mammal species and 59 species of reptiles. While the deer and the monkeys full of japery can be spotted in abundance, the majestic Royal Bengal tiger is difficult to track down. Tracking, walking, feeding and bonding with the harmless horins (spotted deer) all render the intricacy of nature in the hub of Bengal. Bagerhat After the exploration of the Sundarbanic wilderness we left for Bagerhat town, which is about 32 km away from Khulna and home to my late maternal grandparents. The eye-catching beauty of the suburbs of Bagerhat kept me astounded throughout the ride to my naani s (grandmother s) home. It was an orderly house, reasonably big with a stretching veranda that extended all the way to the Dauratana River. After resting for a while in my naani s house, we hired two rickshaws and went to the Mazhar of Khan Jahan Ali: one of the grand historical places of Bagerhat. The historical legend goes somewhat in this manner: the obscure Saint-General, Hazrat Pir Khan Jahan Ali devoted his life to Islam. During the ancient eras, he came from Baghdad with a fair number of disciples and started to distribute doctrines and teachings of Islam. Khan Jahan Ali s tomb is a manifestation of spirituality and the prevalence of the Islamic religion in Bangladesh. Another Holy site 51

16 visited by us was Bagerhat s Sixty Dome Mosque (Shait Gambuz Mazjid). This is the largest mosque in Bangladesh from the Sultanate Period. An impressive mid-fifteenth century Mughal monument carved with a hue of regal brown, the mosque depicted the soulful merging of beauty and religion. Chittagong After returning to Dhaka from Khulna by train, we took an air trip to Chittagong, the main seaport of Bangladesh situated in the country s south-eastern region at the mouth of Tea plucking from tea garden the luxurious Karnaphuli River. Chittagong s main attraction is Cox s Bazar, a beach that stretches a massive 125 km down the eastern side of the Bay of Bengal. It is heralded as the world s longest, uninterrupted natural sandy beach. It is named after Captain Cox, an administrator during the colonial eras of the British Raj. I had always wanted to explore the beaches of my country, and the experience at Cox s Bazar is something I hitherto cherish. Joyful children were building sandcastles and collecting shells, couples were walking on the moist sand and families were enjoying the rush of the waves. I was standing near the shore enjoying the crimson sunset and listening to the rumbles of the surfing sea and the gushing waves. The velvety smooth sand gently immersed into the shimmering waters and then wiggled into the openings of my toes. The unpredictable waters of Cox s Bazar, through its dynamics of high and low tides represent vibrancy in tranquillity. I was waiting to get engulfed by the gigantic waves, but as soon as they reached the shore, they subsided. The calm waters attempted to creep up my feet, but only managed to reach below my ankles. I turned around to see my sister and my parents coming towards the shore...all four of us started walking along the moist sands of Cox s Bazar. Resorts, hotel facilities and accommodation of international bearing are present within the fishing port of Cox s Bazar. These are very close to and easily reachable from the hills and the beach. Cox s Bazar is extremely flexible with different schemes of adventure, whether it is swimming through the dusky blue waters of the bay, taking a boat trip or catching a bird s-eye view of the ocean, waterfalls and hilltops. The beach also has burgeoning surfing arrangements for those who love to surf. One of the famous islands, about 9 km south of Cox s Bazar-Teknaf peninsula, is the St. Martin s Island (Daruchini Dip) which is well-recognised for its coral reefs and placid turquoise waters. We took a boat ride to the island and planned an overnight stay: I soothed my eyes by examining live corals. I softly brought down my eyelids and listened to the crashing sounds of the interminable waves. This triggered full relaxation of my body, mind and soul. One can also seek relaxation in Rangamati: the Lake City of Bangladesh as 52

17 well as the Capital city of the Chittagong Hill Tracts. It is connected with Chittagong by a 77km metalled road. Taking a trip around this splendid city, we unravelled adorned temples, ornamented pagodas (Rajbana Vihara) and ethnic markets which all espoused the blissful emergence of a vibrant, tribal sub-culture. Homespun textiles, bamboo handbags, ethnic jewellery, handicrafts are just a few of the many floras and faunas of the city. The indigenous music and open-air tribal dance are guaranteed to captivate visitors. Sylhet Our last train journey on this trip was from Chittagong to Sylhet, which took us about eight hours. Sylhet is a breath-taking metropolitan city that lies on the banks of the River Surma in north-east Bangladesh. Besides the lush green tea gardens, the two main attractions of Sylhet are Jaflong and the Madhabkunda Waterfall. Jaflong is situated in the Gowainghat Sub-district of the Sylhet Division in the north-eastern part of the country. It is approximately 55 km away from the town of Sylhet. To me it was a quaint beauty surrounded by the exuberance of greenery. The site s mountainous regions and crystal clear water has tourists flocking from both home and abroad. The Madhabkunda Waterfall left me speechless. This is one of the largest waterfalls in Bangladesh (200 ft/61 m high), situated in the Barlekha Sub-district, in the Moulvibazar District of the Sylhet Division. The mesmerising echo of the falling water created a sensation of oneness with nature. The sober green trees stood as a striking contrast to the achromatic whiteness of the fall. Blooming with water lilies, the spot is popular for picnics, outings A panaromic view of Madhabkkunda Waterfall in Moulvibazar and self-complacency. Thousands of tourists are drawn to Madhabkunda due to its natural beauty. Most tourists take pleasure trips from the monthly spans of November to February. One can travel to this location either by road from Sylhet, or from Kulaura Sub-district if travelling by train. Celebrate, Rejoice, Recollect Embrace Whether it is a new-found nostalgia through lingering historical fragments, a desire to contemplate near the eminent beaches or an adventurous exploration of the wilderness, Bangladesh commits to entertaining tourists through a wide spectrum of sites, activities and eco-friendly challenges. The time had arrived...it was a challenge...a challenge that I was not ready to accept...the challenge of leaving my desh, my country. My soul, full of vitality, was not ready to leave. My mind, full of wisdom, was not ready to go. My body, full of mobility, was not ready to move. My eyes, full of panorama, were not ready to close. Even till today, while I write this story, I gaze through my eyes at the wondrous glory of Mother Earth Come to the land that awaits Waits to embrace Waits to be embraced. Shamika Shabnam is doing her Ph.D. in English Literature and Language. 53