Mark Carwardine Mark Carwardine HIGHLIGHTS

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1 Join Mark Carwardine and expert friends on a very special expedition to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula 30 October 18 November 2015 (plus travel to and from Ushuaia, in Argentina) This will be my 23rd visit to the frozen south, and I ve combined all the very best wildlife and wild places in this one outstanding trip. If you re going to make the journey to the bottom of the world you might as well do it properly as once-in-a-lifetime experiences go, it doesn t get much better. Mark Carwardine We have exclusively chartered the 92-passenger Akademik Sergey Vavilov a comfortable and ice-strengthened polar expedition ship for this wonderful, far-reaching 19-night expedition cruise. We ll visit prime sites in the Falkland Islands, around the remote island of South Georgia, along the breathtakingly beautiful Antarctic Peninsula and in the South Shetland Islands to see a mind-boggling variety of wildlife and wild places. We ll have loads of time ashore and plenty of opportunity to enjoy the overwhelming scenery of ice-choked waterways, glaciers, blue and white icebergs, and some of the most impressive mountains on the planet all in long hours of daylight. Along the way, we ll mingle with literally hundreds of thousands of penguins, meet 20-foot-long elephant seals, cross the Antarctic Convergence, navigate the famous Drake Passage, sail across the Scotia Sea, round Cape Horn, set foot on the White Continent itself, meet researchers at scientific bases, visit Ernest Shackleton s grave, and enjoy an outstanding schedule of entertaining and informative lectures, talks, workshops and seminars by top polar and wildlife experts, professional photographers and film-makers. Our journey begins and ends in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, in Argentina's Tierra del Fuego. HIGHLIGHTS Travel on Mark s exclusively chartered, very comfortable and safe, ice-strengthened polar expedition ship the Akademik Sergey Vavilov. Wonderfully varied Southern Ocean journey with superb wildlife watching in a spectacular polar setting. A record-breaking 19 nights on board the ship giving much more time to explore than most comparable trips. Enormous rookeries of king, macaroni, gentoo, chinstrap and adélie penguins (we also hope to see magellanic and rockhopper penguins). Fabulous close encounters with Weddell, crabeater, leopard, southern elephant and Antarctic fur seals. Wandering, royal, black-browed, grey-headed and light-mantled sooty albatrosses accompany the ship. Wide variety of cetaceans likely, including: fin, sei, humpback, Antarctic minke and orca (several different ecotypes), as well as hourglass, Peale s and Commerson s dolphins (previous trips Mark has led to this part of the world have also seen southern rightwhale dolphins, southern right whales, long-finned pilot whales, sperm whales, southern bottlenose whales and even Cuvier s beaked whales). 1

2 We will be joined by top natural history filmmaker Peter Bassett (producer of many of David Attenborough s most famous programmes) who will make a wonderful film of the trip for you to take home afterwards); award-winning landscape photographer Joe Cornish; former editor of BBC Wildlife magazine and professional editor/writer Roz Kidman Cox (who will write a detailed diary of the trip); manager and trip administrator Rachel Ashton (who will also make a fun timelapse of the trip three weeks compressed into six minutes!); and a resident team of polar experts. Exciting cruises in inflatable Zodiacs among towering, sculpted icebergs and breathtaking ice floes, and for up-close encounters with seals, penguins, whales, and other wildlife. Learn first-hand about the remarkable history of the region and meet scientists working at active field stations. Good-sized and exceptionally stable ship for comfortable sea crossings (ships that are too small take considerably longer and give a rougher ride). Spend maximum time ashore (larger ships offer slightly cheaper tours but have so many passengers they need to operate a shift system, which means that each passenger has far fewer landings and much less time ashore plus they can t get into many more remote areas that are inaccessible to such large vessels). Fabulous photographic and video opportunities, with special tuition and workshops by Mark, Joe Cornish and other well known experts. We lend you all the appropriate polar outdoor clothing jacket, trousers and boots. ITINERARY The cruise itinerary is outlined below (please bear in mind that we strongly advise you to arrive a day early we can help with an optional flight and hotel package). Fri 30: There will be time to explore Ushuaia, on the north shore of the Beagle Channel, near the southernmost tip of South America, before boarding the Akademik Sergey Vavilov late in the afternoon. After becoming familiar with our home for the next 20 days, we depart early in the evening for the Falkland Islands. Sat 31: Our first day at sea, watching for whales, dolphins, albatrosses, petrels, prions, and other wildlife. There will be lots of photographic opportunities, as myriad seabirds follow the ship. Meanwhile, our onboard lectures, workshops and presentations begin, covering everything from Antarctic wildlife and heroic stories of some of the early polar explorers to photography, filmmaking and writing. Sun 01: Arriving in the Falklands overnight, by morning we are ready to make our first shore landings: Bleaker Island, which is home to magellanic, gentoo and rockhopper penguins and a large imperial cormorant colony, and is one of the few places where the rare flying steamer duck can be observed; and Sea Lion Island, best known for its large breeding colony of southern elephant seals and its resident orcas. We also have a good chance of seeing Commerson s and Peale s dolphins today. We'll also have a short stop in Port Stanley, the colourful capital of the Falkland Islands. Mon 02 - Tue 03: Now we sail southeast, bound for the remote island of South Georgia, watching for wildlife along the way and enjoying more lectures, workshops and presentations. Wed 04 - Sun 08: We have five full days to explore South Georgia. A mere speck in the immensity of the Southern Ocean, this extraordinary island is remote by any standards. It has an ethereal beauty that is nothing short of breathtaking and, with 50 million seabirds and more than 5 million seals, is home to some of the greatest concentrations of wildlife on the planet. There are animals everywhere from wandering albatrosses and macaroni penguins to southern elephant seals and endemic South Georgia pipits and they are so unconcerned by our presence that most of them merely stand and stare or come and take a closer look. We hope to see the writhing mass of Antarctic fur seals at picturesque Elsehul, visit Sir Ernest Shackleton s grave at Grytviken, mingle with a mind-boggling 150,000 pairs of king penguins at St. Andrew s Bay, wander among the myriad wildlife at stunning Gold Harbour, and much, much more. The colour, the noise, the smell and the commotion of these unforgettable five days guarantees sensory overload at every turn. 2

3 Mon 09 - Wed 11: Now we cross the Scotia Sea, heading south-west towards the Antarctic Peninsula. There will be more wildlifewatching along the way, as well as lectures, workshops and presentations. We will cross the Antarctic Convergence, a biological barrier where cold polar waters sink beneath the warmer waters of the temperate zone; beyond the Convergence, the world changes as signs of the frozen south arrive we start to see little blocks of ice, then larger blocks, then proper tabular icebergs. Thu 12 - Sun 15: We explore the beautiful and wildlife-rich South Shetland Islands. Here we visit enormous adélie, chinstrap and gentoo penguin rookeries, land on beaches ruled by Antarctic fur seals and observe wallowing southern elephant seals. A highlight will be sailing into the other-worldly flooded caldera of Deception Island through a nerve-wrackingly narrow entrance often patrolled by humpback whales to see more penguins and Antarctic fur seals. Then we sail across Bransfield Strait and on to the Antarctic Peninsula, one of the world s great, undisturbed wildlife paradises. We ll visit enormous penguin rookeries, and see blue-eyed shags, kelp gulls, cape petrels, snowy sheathbills and many other birds. We ll cruise in our inflatable Zodiacs among other-worldly icebergs or past crabeater, Weddell and leopard seals hauled out on ice floes. And we hope to have close encounters with orcas, humpback whales and Antarctic minke whales. Mon 16 - Tue 17: We leave the magical world of Antarctica and head back across the famous Drake Passage, watching for whales, dolphins, albatrosses and other wildlife. We round Cape Horn, where we make a short stop just offshore quietly contemplating this notorious landmark and perhaps observing the Peale s dolphins and large numbers of seabirds that often gather in the area. Then we make our way back along the Beagle Channel towards Ushuaia. Wed 18: We bid farewell to the staff and crew of the Akademik Sergey Vavilov and, after breakfast, disembark in Ushuaia. Please note: this tour is highly weather-, sea- and ice-dependent. Although we will stick to the itinerary as closely as possible, it may change to make the most of local conditions. It s part of the fun of polar exploration! SHIP DETAILS The Akademik Sergey Vavilov is a modern, safe, comfortable, icestrengthened vessel, like a floating wilderness lodge. It is ideally suited for polar exploration. Over the years, Mark has travelled on many of the vessels available for polar adventures, and rates the Vavilov as one of the best ships working in the region. Built in Finland in 1988, and recently refitted and refurbished, she is designed to be exceptionally stable which is great news for long sea crossings! Her highly sophisticated internal stabilizers and built-in ballast trimming system reduce motion significantly and ease the way. The Vavilov is also remarkably quiet, with very little ambient noise in the cabins and public areas. There is ample deck space, with viewing areas on each passenger level of the ship, while the bridge and chart room are open to everyone virtually 24 hours a day. The bridge is excellent for sightseeing and viewing wildlife expedition staff will be on duty most of the time, watching for wildlife and ready to answer questions. Binoculars and identification guides are also available. The public areas are expansive and filled with natural light. They include a fabulous bar and lounge on deck 6, with incredible 180- degree views; tea and coffee are available here 24 hours a day. There is also a wellappointed library (with large windows overlooking the bow deck and the inevitably breathtaking scene beyond), a gift shop, a multi-media centre (with Apple Mac computers freely available, together with a DVD/CD burner and photo printer), a well-equipped gym, hot tub and a tiny sauna. Briefings and lectures are held in a large presentation room, with the latest in digital technology. There is also a full complement of Zodiacs (rigid-hulled inflatable boats) aboard, for breathtaking ice and wildlife cruises, and to take everyone ashore. The 117-metre vessel is maintained to the highest standards and kept immaculately clean. She has a crew and staff of 63 the passenger-to-staff ratio is one of the highest in the industry and there is an extremely high level of personal service. Attention to detail is second-to-none, yet the atmosphere on board is extremely relaxed and informal. The Akademik Sergey Vavilov has an impressive maximum cruising speed of 14.5 knots. With a bowthruster and a stern multidirectional propulsion unit, and twin controllable-pitch propellers, she is also incredibly maneuverable. It s the perfect set-up for wildlife watching and getting into (and out of) tight corners! Safety is a priority, of course. The Akademik Sergey Vavilov is a Russianflagged vessel and carries all 3

4 current certifications required by Russian and international maritime law for ensuring passenger safety and well-being. An extremely experienced captain and crew, and an ice-strengthened hull (Lloyds Register 1A, Canadian Type B) provide an exceptionally safe combination for polar expedition cruising. Safety and emergency equipment on board the vessel is inspected and tested on a regular basis and there are two fully-enclosed lifeboats with a total capacity of 132, as well as four life rafts with a total capacity of 200. There is also a small infirmary and a crew doctor, who is available to provide a basic and emergency medical service. And, finally, the Vavilov is built and operated to be as environmentally friendly as possible, from using Marine Grade Fuel (the highest grade marine fuel with the lowest emissions) to the ecologically sensitive cleaning supplies used by the cabin stewards. ACCOMMODATION There is a choice of comfortable, fresh and clean cabins (triple, twin or superior) as well as suites, on four different decks (please see the ship s deck plan for more details). All are tastefully and pleasantly decorated and furnished, with a writing desk and chair and ample storage. All of them have opening windows (except triple cabins, which have opening portholes) with some of the most spectacular views in the world! Some have sofa-beds, which are the size of normal beds, and just as comfortable, but double-up as sofas during the day (they are converted every evening by the cabin stewards, while we are eating dinner). Bathrobes, as well as a toiletry kit, hairdryer and coffee/tea maker are provided in all cabins (only bathrobes in triple cabins). Triple cabin (2 available): two bunk beds and one sofa-bed, washbasin. Shared facilities. Twin share cabin (6 available): two bunk beds, washbasin. Shared facilities. Twin semi-private cabin (12 available): one single bed and one sofa-bed. Facilities shared with one other cabin (the bathroom is inbetween the two cabins so you don t have to walk through a public area). Twin private cabin (17 available): two single beds. Private facilities. Superior cabin (3 available): two single beds, sofa. Private facilities. Shackleton Suite (5 available): very spacious with separate sleeping quarters, with one double bed and one sofa-bed. Private facilities. One Ocean Suite (1 available): very spacious with separate sleeping quarters, with one double-bed and one sofa-bed. Private facilities with a bathtub. This cabin has windows (which can be opened) overlooking the bow. MEALS All meals aboard ship are included. The window-lined dining room (which can seat everyone in one sitting) is catered by international chefs, offering a daily choice of cuisine. The food is excellent, varied and tasty, with plenty of healthy options made with fresh ingredients. LEADERS Mark Carwardine will be hosting the trip and will also give lectures and run workshops. He will be accompanied by Britain s best-known landscape photographer Joe Cornish (owner of his own photographic gallery and author of many books); Roz Kidman Cox (former editor of BBC Wildlife magazine, now wildlife writer and editor) who will write a detailed diary of the holiday; wildlife-film-maker Peter Bassett (producer of the BBC Natural History Unit s Life of Birds, Life in the Undergrowth and Life in the Freezer, among many others) who will be making a video of our trip for everyone to take home afterwards; and Rachel Ashton (manager and trip administrator) who will be making a fun timelapse of our trip. They will all be sharing their extensive knowledge, expertise and stories during the trip. There will be a highly experienced resident polar expedition team on board, too. GROUP SIZE There will be approximately 92 passengers on the ship altogether, plus Mark and his team. WHY THIS TRIP? We ve designed what we believe to be the ultimate trip to the frozen south in three packed weeks you ll get to see the very best the region has to offer. We have no fewer than 19 nights on board (instead of the usual 16, 17 or occasionally 18 nights on other trips). We ll spend much more time ashore than most comparable trips (you don t have to do every landing, of course, and you don t have to stay for the maximum time, but we believe in giving you the opportunity to see and do as much as possible). We also have our own team of experts on board, who will provide you with a professionally produced film and timelapse of the trip, as well as a diary written by a professional writer, to take home afterwards. And, as if that s not enough, we re only going to do this once! WHY NOVEMBER? The Antarctic season runs from November to mid-march (the southern spring and summer). Mark has visited the region in every month and each has its own special highlights. But November is particularly good for several reasons. It s the start of the season and an adventurous time to travel. There is plenty of daylight (we plan to use all of it!) and the snow is pristine. The beautifully sculpted icebergs, emerging from their winter hibernation, are particularly impressive (and they frequently have legions of penguins clinging to their slippery slopes). The wildlife activity is really good, too there will be lots of courting penguins, fur seal pups are being 4

5 born and, on South Georgia, it is the only time to see the 20-foot-long male elephant seals fighting on the beaches. It s also outstandingly good for photography, because we should get a few lovely snowstorms as well as the usual mix of sunny days and overcast days. WEATHER AND SEA CONDITIONS The weather where we re going is highly variable we re likely to get a bit of everything (bright sunshine, cloud, rain and snow). But we will be exploring the wildlife-rich eastern (leeward) side of South Georgia, which has a much more pleasant climate than the exposed western side, and the mildest part of the Antarctic continent. Temperatures in November typically range from 0ºC to 7ºC (but could be colder or warmer). With appropriate clothing (which we provide) this can be exhilarating and not at all uncomfortable. We ll have quite a few days at sea (the rest of the trip most of it, in fact is spent in much calmer, sheltered waters close to shore). Sea conditions are hard to predict, of course. Mark has made these crossings more times than he can remember: one Drake crossing (many years ago, much later in the season) was very bad, a few have been rough enough to make about a fifth of the passengers feel sick, many have been with a slight swell but perfectly comfortable, and quite a few have been glassy calm. Most importantly, we have a good-sized ship with highly sophisticated stablizers and a built-in ballast trimming system to reduce motion and ease the way (the Vavilov is built to be exceptionally stable). A TYPICAL DAY ON BOARD Imagine a comfortable hotel with two members of staff to every three guests, spectacular views out of every window, superb international cuisine, and a range of facilities including a well-stocked library and a multi-media room. Then move the hotel to a different wild and remote location every day, add a team of international experts on everything from polar exploration and photography to birds and seals, throw in many once-in-alifetime experiences such as whale watching, penguin watching, Zodiac cruises, visits to scientific research stations and you begin to get the idea. Admittedly, the cruise can be challenging. One of the problems with visiting the Southern Ocean in summer, for example, is the long hours of daylight. The problem has nothing to do with being unable to sleep (the cabins can be darkened completely), but it has a lot to do with not wanting to sleep. Even after a full day of adventure, with the ship well on its way to the next breathtaking destination, you do not want to sleep for fear of missing something. You want to be on deck, or on the bridge, to glimpse just one more iceberg or one more penguin, to watch the vessel pick its way through one more icy stretch of sea or to take just one more front cover photograph, before the next adventure. A typical day on the cruise if, indeed, there is a typical day is likely to begin with a friendly wake-up call and breakfast. Everyone will have been briefed the night before, and a written itinerary will have been posted on the noticeboard, so talk will be of the adventures ahead. The morning typically begins with a call to get ready for the first shore landing of the day, when we don our warm-weather gear and wellie boots. We carry a fleet of sturdy Zodiac craft to transfer expedition staff and passengers quickly and safely to otherwise inaccessible wildlife sites. At first, many people worry about getting in and out of the Zodiacs with their cameras and their pride intact. But, after the first often hilarious attempts at stepping ashore gracefully, with the help of the staff and crew it soon becomes second nature. Many people stay ashore for the maximum time allowed typically from two to five hours depending on the weather and the day s itinerary but others are ready to return to the Vavilov sooner. The Zodiacs make good water-taxis and ferry people backwards and forwards according to demand. There is absolutely no pressure, because everyone does their own thing on shore: some go for a walk and explore, others prefer to sit quietly and observe or take pictures. There s time to change and clean up before lunch, while the ship cruises to the next spectacular venue. Be prepared, though, for frequent interruptions by some amazing views and spectacular 5

6 wildlife spied through the panoramic windows. It s the ultimate comfortable adventure: few holidays offer such awe-inspiring and ever-changing scenery over a single meal. The afternoon s activities might include a second shore landing at a different site, or a Zodiac cruise (a highlight of many trips is the opportunity to cruise through beautiful ice scenery, past seals sleeping on ice floes, or among whales). Whatever the activity, by the time supper arrives, everyone will be talking animatedly about the adventures of the day. There may be another shore landing or Zodiac cruise after dinner, otherwise evenings are for relaxing. Curl up with a good book, spend a few hours chatting in the bar or attend a presentation in the auditorium. Alternatively, you could always spend a few more bracing hours on the deck, or on the bridge, looking for just one more iceberg, one more group of seals on the ice, or one more whale... before forcing yourself to turn in for the night. Either that, or you could stay up all night and sleep when you get home. PRICES (excluding flights) 7,995 (sharing triple cabin with shared facilities) 8,495 (sharing twin cabin with shared facilities) 9,200 (sharing twin cabin with semiprivate facilities) 10,250 (sharing twin cabin with 11,100 (sharing superior cabin with 11,950 (sharing Shackleton Suite with 12,950 (sharing One Ocean Suite with Single supplements: 1.7x price for twin cabins and 2x price for suites (cruise only). Unfortunately, single supplements are not available for triple cabins. Price includes: airport-to-ship transfer pre-voyage and ship-to-airport transfer postvoyage; 19 nights accommodation in comfortable cabin on the Akademik Sergey Vavilov, with daily housekeeping; all breakfasts, lunches and dinners throughout the voyage; guide services of Mark Carwardine and expert friends from arrival in Ushuaia; leadership throughout the voyage by the resident Expedition Team; all shore landings and excursions during the cruise; comprehensive pre-departure advice and information; all miscellaneous service taxes and port charges throughout the voyage; loan of polar jacket and trousers and Wellington boots (means you are well prepared and saves packing space). Price does not include: return flights from the UK to Ushuaia, Argentina; airport/ government arrival and departure taxes; hotels, transfers and other land arrangements pre- and post-voyage (ie not listed in Price includes ); passport and visa expenses; excess baggage charges; cancellation, baggage and travel insurance (compulsory); meals on shore; alcoholic and soft drinks; items of a personal nature such as laundry and telecommunications charges; medical expenses; crew and resident expedition staff gratuities (we suggest about US$10 per day it s usually collected just prior to the end of the cruise). OPTIONAL FLIGHT AND HOTEL PACKAGE We are delighted to offer a choice of two optional hotel and flight packages, to get you to and from the ship, in Ushuaia, with the minimum of fuss (or we are more than happy to book any other flight options for you): 1. British Airways (international) and Aerolineas Argentinas (domestic) Wed 28 Oct: Fly London to Buenos Aires to Ushuaia (arrive 29th). Transfer to a comfortable hotel for a one-night stay, room only. Fri 30 Oct:Transfer to ship. [CRUISE UNTIL WED 18 NOVEMBER] Wed 18 Nov: Transfer to domestic airport fly Ushuaia to Buenos Aires transfer to a comfortable hotel for a one-night stay, room only. Thu 19 Nov: Transfer to international airport fly Buenos Aires to London. Fri 20 Nov: Arrive in London. 2. Iberia (international) and Aerolineas Argentinas (domestic) Thu 29 Oct: Fly London to Madrid to Buenos Aires transfer to a comfortable hotel for a one-night stay, room only. Fri 30 Oct: Transfer to domestic airport fly Buenos Aires to Ushuaia transfer to ship. [CRUISE UNTIL WED 18 NOVEMBER] Wed 18 Nov: Transfer to a comfortable hotel in Ushuaia for a one-night stay, room only. Thu 19 Nov: Transfer to domestic airport fly Ushuaia to Buenos Aires to Madrid to London. Fri 20 Nov: Arrive in London. The total cost for both packages is 1,990 (based on two people sharing hotel rooms) and this includes all flights and transfers and two nights' hotel accommodation. MAIN TOUR PAYMENT SCHEDULE: Non-refundable deposit due on booking: 2,000 per person. First-stage payment due on 1 Oct 2014: 2,500 per person. Second-stage payment due on 1 Feb 2015: 2,500 per person. Balance due on 1 Aug 2015: varies according to cabin. OPTIONAL FLIGHT AND HOTEL PACKAGE PAYMENT SCHEDULE Non-refundable deposit due on booking: 500 per person. First-stage payment due on 1 Oct 2014: 1,000 person. Balance due on 1 Aug This trip s bonding and liability insurance is provided by Wildlife Worldwide so the money you pay is safe even in the highly unlikely event of cancellation or insolvency. ATOL: registered member ABTOT: registered member 5199 Photos Mark Carwardine; illustrations Martin Camm TO BOOK, PLEASE CONTACT: Rachel Ashton T: + 44 (0) rachel@markcarwardine.com 5 Chesterfield Road, Bristol BS6 5DN; 6