Itinerary-Diary. Spanish/French Pyrenees and the Zaragoza Plains. 27/02/2004 to 02/03/2004

Transcription

1 Itinerary-Diary Spanish/French Pyrenees and the Zaragoza Plains 27/02/2004 to 02/03/2004 Eddie Marsh, Bob Walthew, Tony Forster and Mick Wright. Sites and Reference: Gosney, The Pyrenees by Jacquie Crozier, various trip reports, also thanks to Derek Marsh and Paul Holmes for recent info and loan of detailed maps. Travel details: Flights from Stansted to Pau with Ryan Air return including taxes and booked in advance. Car Hire with Holiday Autos each (Alfa 156 turbo diesel very nice). Friday 27/02/04: Left Grundisburgh at 06.30, Tony took his car as it had the most room for luggage, as we headed down the A12 we soon ran into heavy snow. Arrived Stansted around 08.40, dropped off Mick and Bob plus the luggage, Tony and I then took the car to Tony s son s house, he works at the airport and got a taxi back, this saved us the car park fees. Had plenty of time so had a good breakfast to set us up for the day, checked in, when we arrived at the gate we were told the flight would be about 45 minutes late, should have left at Got away around and had a good flight, arrived at Pau 15.00, left Mick and Bob to collect the luggage while Tony and I got the car hire sorted. When we came back there was only one bag left on the carousel that was the same as mine, but it was someone else s with a nametag. Disaster looked around, nobody carrying a similar bag went to the help desk and a lady told us there was a coach party out the front. I ran out and got onto the bus, shouted the lady s name and luckily she responded, explained and found my bag in the luggage compartment. She apologized and said she thought it seemed heavy when she carried it to the bus, went to the desk and collected her bag, what a lucky escape, found the car and got under way at last. Got in a bit of a muddle when we got out of the airport, but soon found the route we needed and headed for our first stop at the ski resort at Astun. We stopped on route for a McDonalds and drinks and watched a Common Buzzard from the restaurant window, the same bird was present on the return journey, and this McDonalds was about 1hr from Pau. We headed off after about 20minutes, but as we got towards the top we experienced heavy falling snow, as we turned off onto the old road just before the tunnel the snow was covering the road and it was still snowing very hard. Issue1: 1 Eddie Marsh

2 We took it slowly as the road was twisty and there were cars were coming down. After reaching the old border control post we turned left to make the short drive to Astun Ski Resort. When we arrived at the car park, the large tractors were clearing the car park, the snow had eased so we were able to get out and have a look round for some birds i.e. (Alpine Chough, Snow Finch and Alpine Accentor). We looked round for about 30 minutes but failed to see a single bird so we decided to make our way to Zaragoza. On the way we called in at Candanchu Ski Resort no luck either. It was now getting late and the main road was a bit slushy so it was time to head south. There were plenty of snow ploughs and gritters keeping the main roads clear, they seem to have a constant effort going, probably working through the night. It was a bit slow until we got past Jaca, then things speeded up as the roads were fairly quite, we arrived at Zaragoza around 20.00hrs and things went from bad to worse as we got totally lost. This was due to the place we were looking for suddenly disappearing from the road signs. We eventually figured it out as they had built a new road out of the town that was not on our map, we had wasted well over an hour but now we were on our way to Belchite. We arrived at the hotel at Belchite around 21.50; we went in and were soon told that the hotel was not open, bad news. Anyway (BW) was keen to eat so we stopped in the restaurant for a meal and a well-deserved beer. After some deliberation with the local waiter he told us where we might get some accommodation for the night, we paid the bill and headed for Fuentes de Ebro. When we arrived we could not find any obvious hotels that were open, turning up a side street we found a place that had some life, fingers crossed, (BW) was dispatched with the phrase book. He was soon to return with bad news, they had no room, but they had given him a place on the edge of town, we found the Hotel Elaina. It was in total darkness, but (BW) managed rouse an old lady who was involved with the hotel but we got into a total muddle as she had taken (BW s) passport. We wanted to leave at 06.00hrs, but she was saying nobody would be around till 07.00hrs it was 80 euros no breakfast, which we thought was expensive but we had no choice! In the end (TF) had to phone his daughter (Gina) who lives and works in Spain to speak to the old lady. Gina soon got things sorted and we all were very grateful as we now could get some shut-eye, it had been an eventful last hour or so but at least we had a bed and we went to sleep dreaming of finding Dupont s in the morning. Night in the Hotel Elaina at Fuentes de Ebro. Saturday 28/02/04: We set off around 06.00hrs it was particularly cold with very strong winds which didn t look too promising but we were soon on the Quinto to Belchite road and were trying to follow directions given to us by Derek Marsh. We found a car park with an information board explaining the wildlife of the reserve but were confused, as it did not tie up with Derek s directions at all! Issue1: 2 Eddie Marsh

3 So we carried on towards Belchite, but soon realised that the car park must have been the right place, Lomazas Steppe Reserven Zaragoza Plains. Once we parked the car we got out to cold strong winds but we did manage to hear at least one bird calling. As the light appeared the birds went totally quite and it was not looking good. We walked the footpath to the mounds about half a mile from the car and viewed the plain, but it was so difficult in the wind, although we did get good views of Calandra Larks in their characteristic display flight. After almost 3 hours we decided to go back to the car and see if we could do some birding from the tracks that run off the main road. After driving two dirt tracks and catching up with a few species we decided to head for the Old Town at Belchite to look for Black Wheatear and Blue Rock Thrush. The ruined town was incredible and we were amazed that it was open access, in Britain it would be fenced off due the safety issues; we soon found the two species that we wanted and as it was now mid morning we headed for Huesca and the Wallcreeper site near E de Vadiello reservoir and dam. We had a good journey back the roads were quite and the weather was sunny, at our arrival at the first tunnel we got out of the car and (BW) soon found the star bird (Wallcreeper) we had good view of it on the rock face above our heads, it seemed to prefer the sunny side. After it flew off we went to the dam and birded from the dam causeway with excellent views of Lammergeier and both Griffon and Egyptian vultures. Late in the afternoon we headed for Loporzano and at the cemetery we looked for Eagle Owl unfortunately we only heard it calling, but couldn t get any sightings. When the light had gone it was once again time to get our nights accommodation sorted, we decided to head for Jaca as it was perfectly placed for the next days birding. Reaching Jaca we head west on the N240 to find the Hotel Aragon, 17 Kilometres outside the town. Once again we were unlucky as the hotel was fully booked, probably due to the new snowfalls and everybody heading for the ski slopes tomorrow. We headed back to Jaca as we had seen a hotel as passed through, this was the Hotel Victoria, (BW) and (TF) were off to see if they could get us booked in and lucky for us they had two rooms available. It was snowing heavily and people were arriving all the time, many to camp on the campsite (mad) having got our keys we had to climb a metal staircase at the end of the hotel and get through a security door. (BW) could not open it, (TF) had a go and failed, so there we all are hanging onto all the luggage in the snow and cannot get into ours rooms, (TF) went and dragged the manager away from watching a football match in the bar and he eventually showed us how to juggle the key and open the door in at last. After getting settled we went down to have a meal, the bar and restaurant had a good atmosphere with many locals watching the football. We ordered food and beers; the beers went down well and were soon ordering more. It was time to catch up with the log during the meal, which was a large salad to share; three of us had beef and (TF) had chicken. It was good to relax and enjoy going over the Issue1: 3 Eddie Marsh

4 day s events but it was soon time to hit the sack. We decided that with the weather conditions being as they were we would get up when it was light at around ish. Night in the Hotel Victoria at Jaca. Sunday 29/02/04: On rising it was noticeable that at least four inches of snow had fallen during the night but the main road was clear. It was decided we would try the ski resorts again for Snow Finch and Alpine Chough, we had been told that the weekends are a good time. Fresh snow had fallen so there would be plenty of skiers and it was a Sunday, which is always a busy day. While clearing snow from the car and loading the boot we noticed hundred plus birds in the hedge on the other side of the road, the birds were feeding around a grain silo at the back of some factory units. There was a large flock of a species we did not recognise so we took the car across and got the scopes out, after some deliberation it was concluded that they were Rock Sparrows (100+). The reason for the confusion came from the fact that we were not expecting them to be in such a large flock! The entire trip notes we had referenced only reported ones and twos, there were also plenty of other species see systematic list. It was now time to head off to the ski resorts, our first stop being Candanchu as soon as we turned off we en-counted Alpine Chough, we carried on to the skiers car park and parked up. As we got out of the car we spotted two Snow Finches feeding in the next row of cars, excellent views down to fifteen feet, we followed them around the car park for a while, they looked stunning in flight. We decided to go to the ski café for coffee and a doughnut, the skiing look good as we watched from the window. As the finches and chough had performed so well here there was no point in carrying on up to Astun. Decided to make our way down, stopped at the small Quarry at Km 662 (N330 Gosney gen), excellent for Alpine Chough (200+) but no Wallcreeper. Then moved on and birded the Jaca / Oreol Road, we tried to reach the view point (Black Woodpecker) off this road but got stuck in deep snow and ice, this stopped our progress and it took some clever driving and pushing to turn the car round, we had good views of both Cirl and Rock Buntings on the way back. Next stop the Hencho Valley (Citril Finch) as we started to climb the Upper Hencho Valley we ran into more heavy snow and the narrow road was getting well covered. We carried on for a while but realised that there were no grassy areas for the finches to feed on and the conditions were getting worse and fast, so it was time to turn round and head down. On the way back we had a stunning Hawfinch in a bare hedge close to the road, it looked so bright in the wintry conditions. Next we set off for Riglos stopped at several places and birded on route, at Riglos there was a nice little bar so we had coffee and a sandwich, it was handy as you could bird Issue1: 4 Eddie Marsh

5 through the window (100+) Crag Martins were feeding around the bottom of the cliff, had a fly-by Wallcreeper and several Blackcaps feeding on ivy berries in a garden. It was decided to move onto Loporzano to have another bash at the Eagle Owl, as the weather was fine and there was less wind. As the light faded we were scanning all the nooks and crannies to locate one, as it was getting a bit darker one called from across the valley. I panned my scope to the area, after about five minutes of scanning I could not believe my luck when it flew through my scope view and I managed to follow it as it flew along the hillside and then perched on a rock. I managed to get the others on the bird and though it was distant and the light was not good we could clearly see the bird moving its head. A decision was made to go back to the Zaragoza Plains and have another crack at the Dupont s, as the weather could not be as bad as Saturday could it? We set of and made good time to Zaragoza, no trouble getting through the town this time and soon arrived at Fuentes de Ebro and the Hotel Elaina the bar was open this time and we soon got booked in. The bar was not serving hot meals, so the lady sketched us a map of a good restaurant in town and told us were to park, having parked we soon lost our bearings, but we showed the note to a guy who escorted us right to the door. It was busy with several locals eating and we soon had beers and food ordered, the food was very good and reasonably priced. Caught up with the notes during the meal, it had been a successful day except for the Citril Finch; having finished our meals and a couple more beers it was back to the hotel, alarms were set early so we could be away by as we wanted to be at the site well before first light. Night in the Hotel Elaina at Fuentes de Ebro. 01/03/04 Monday: We were away by and once again it was very cold and the car was covered in frost, it was still windy but not as bad as Saturday. We arrived at the Lomazas Steppe Reserven Zaragoza Plains car park in complete darkness and soon heard Dupont s calling which seemed fairly close to our left and then another more distantly straight out. As daylight started to creep in the birds went completely silent, it was so frustrating as we knew it would be virtually impossible to find them if they did not call or sing. We got down behind the bank out of the wind and scanned for a while hoping to see one cross an open patch, after sometime it was decided to have a wander on the track that is marked with wooden stakes. As we were about to call it a day I had this bird (possible Dupont s) run very fast through a bare patch less than twenty five feet away, it stopped, standing upright by a small sage bush for the briefest of a second. We all circled the area which was small, but it had completely disappeared its amazing how difficult these larks are to see and without them singing its impossible, we may have been a bit to early in the year and the weather was definitely not with us. (EM) was confident that it was a Dupont s Lark, but not being able to get on it with binoculars the views were not satisfactory enough for a tick!!! Issue1: 5 Eddie Marsh

6 Time to head back north to the mountains, first stop E de Vadiello reservoir and dam area, approaching the dam area we had two Alpine Accentors feeding by a wall next to the road, excellent views down to less than ten feet, near to the dam another Wallcreeper. Off again and now heading to the Monasterio de San Juan de la Pena near Jaca we were still concerned that the road would still be snowed in. When we arrived it looked well but after a few hundred yards it was impossible, it was decided that with the whole area would be similar that we might as well walk part of the road. We walked an hour up and an hour back, highlights, two Lammergeier s displaying, Crested Tit and Short-toed Eagle, also the scenery was breathtaking with all the fresh snow, and ice covered rock faces with some stalactites over 20 foot long. We went back to the main road and just to the right of the junction is the Hotel Aragon, this time we were successful and got in OK, very good accommodation the best so far. With still an hour and a half s light left we went back to the silo site on the edge of Jaca, and were rewarded with two new birds for the trip, Water Pipit and Yellowhammer. On the way back we stopped in a large pull-off area at the end of the campsite and had (50+) Red Kites coming to roost in the valley below, it was a marvellous experience to see so many. Back to the hotel to get showered and ready for a good meal and a beer, we decided to meet in the bar at 20.00hrs. The restaurant was at the end of the bar, it was unique as it had a log fir on a large table of firebricks and the chimney at the bottom was the same size as the room. This created a great atmosphere and they also cooked on the fire by dragging a bed of embers to one side. See We ordered food, beer, wine and water, we all had starter three had soup and (TF) had salad, main courses (MW) and (EM) had rabbit, (BW) had Beef and (TF) had chicken, all had the same desert of mouse with forest fruits sauce. The food was excellent as was the bottle of red wine we had and incredibly the guy running things he was looking after the whole place by himself, i.e. running the restaurant and cooking on the open fire and looking after the locals in the bar area. We had indulged in a three course meal, (MW), (TF) and (EM) had four beers each, bottle red wine and a bottle of water between all. All this including B and B worked out at euros each, excellent value at around each. After chatting and relaxing with our drinks for some time it was now getting late and time for bed, it had been a really great evening it was a pity we could not have spent our second night here, it was decided on 08.00am for breakfast. Night at the Hotel Aragon near Jaca. 02/03/04 Tuesday: Today we had to fly home so it was time to head for Pau, our flight was 14.10pm so there was time to stop if we wanted, and we left the Aragon Hotel at around 8.30am. We Issue1: 6 Eddie Marsh

7 made good time and decided to experience the tunnel that crosses the Spanish/ French border, it was very impressive as it is several miles long, it must have cost a fortune to build and incredibly there was no toll to pay and not many vehicles using it. As we had plenty of time it was decided to go to the edge of the Forest d Issaux turning off at the town of Bedous. Eventually we found the turning which is now a new road just outside town and headed for the village of Osse-en-Aspe with its maze of tiny streets we managed to get about 4 Km further on the very narrow road. We eventually got stuck on an icy incline; although it had been snowploughed it had not totally cleared the road surface. This was to cause a problem, as the road was too narrow to turn around, luckily for us we had stopped next to a track leading to a property above us, we had to clear enough of the eight inches of snow with our feet to be able to turn the car round. After some time we were heading in the right direction again, we stopped on a flattish piece of road to bird. (TF) and (MW) decided to start walking down the road and (EM) and (BW) would pick them up on the way down. Four minutes had not passed and we heard one of them whistle, (BW) was busy having a jimmy riddle which delayed us slightly, when we reached them they told us that (TF) had heard a White-backed Woodpecker calling and (MW) had it fly into a nearby tree, (TF) saw it fly across but (MW) had identified it with his binoculars. After spending sometime searching for it we could not be relocate the bird. It was ironic as (TF) and (MW) had seen this species elsewhere, but it would have been a new species for (EM) and (BW), well that s birding. Time was getting on by now and it was time to get to Pau Airport to catch our flight, the journey was slow and we were not making good time. Not far from the airport we filled the hire car up with diesel, (MW) had the only Barn Swallow of the trip We arrived at the Airport parking lot about a half an hour late of our predicted time of arrival mid-day. We got the hire car booked back in with no hassle and went to the check-in desk, it was fairly quite and was soon booked in, and we had time for a coffee and a baguette. The flight was on time and it seemed a short journey back, we took off from Pau at 14.10pm and arrived back at Stansted at 15.15am with the hour difference. Tony contacted Charlie as soon as we arrived at the Baggage Reclaim and went off to collect the car from his house. We waited outside were he had dropped us off, it was not a too long of a wait and we were on our way back to Suffolk. Arrived back at (EM) at around 17.30pm having dropped (MW) on route. It had been a very enjoyable long weekend with some excellent birding and company at a very reasonable cost and highly recommended. The Pyrenees is very beautiful area and the roads are very quiet compared to the UK. The Hotel Aragon at Jaca would be a very good base for a few days and we would recommend booking in advance. We will be going back sometime, probably late March next time which should be better a better time for Citril Finch, Black Woodpecker and Dupont s Lark and also another look at some of the good birds of this trip. Issue1: 7 Eddie Marsh