Newfoundland Route in Detail Newfoundland: Places to Visit

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1 1 Newfoundland Route in Detail 2014 We only mention campgrounds that we recommend. My Newfoundland trip planning included Kevin Major s book As Near To Heaven By Sea: A History of Newfoundland & Labrador, the Newfoundland and Labrador government s Tourist Guide (available on line and through the mail), Newfoundland coffee-table books and the itineraries offered by tour companies (they most often offer highlight tours and thus are a good source of information). I provide our own quick reference of Newfoundland: Places to Visit (that I produced as part of my pre-trip planning) in the hope that it will give you some ideas for planning your own visit. I also provide a sketch of our final Route in Newfoundland. Newfoundland: Places to Visit

2 2 Western 1. Grose Morne National Park Interpretation Centre and Boat Tour 2. Corner Brook Cpt. Cook Monument and Original Charts Lark Harbour (scenic) 3. Hawke s Bay near Port au Choix 4. Port au Choix National Historic Site Maritime Archaic 5. L'Anse aux Meadows Viking settlement 6. Quirpon Island (scenic) Stay at Lighthouse Scenic Routes: Captain Cook Trail Rte. 450 to Lark Harbour (53km) Viking Trail off Rte.1 on Rte. 430 (526km) French Ancestors Route/La Route des Ancetres Francais Central 1. Twillingate Outport Iceberg/Whale boat tours (Twillingate Adventure Tours recommended) 2. Greenspond One of the oldest continuously inhabited Outports 3. Grand Falls Salmonid Interpretation Centre Atlantic Salmon exhibits Scenic Routes: Dorset Trail (280km) Green Bay and the Beothuk Trail (136km) Kings Point Coast of Bays (360km). Rte. 360 south from Bishop s Falls to junction with Rte. 361 and the Mi kmaq Discovery Centre. South is Harbour Breton South Coast Adventure from Hermitage on Rte. 364 and take coastal boat to Gaultois Kittiwake Coast Road to the Isles (187km) pick up where Rte.1 meets Rte Beothuk Interpretation Centre in Boyd s Cove. Also route to Twillingate observe icebergs and whales from Long Point and ferry to Titling on Fogo Island Kittiwake Coast Road to the Shore (300km) Rtes. 320 and 330 Gander Newtown (built on a series of islands) and Barbour Living Heritage Village Kittiwake Coast Road to the Beaches (50km) Rte. 310 from Rte. 1 o Beachcombing o Museum in Burnside features Beothuk artifacts

3 3 o Salvage (photo op) oldest European settlement on this part of coast and classic Outport o Terra Nova National Park Eastern Scenic Routes: Discovery Trail (350km) enter at Rtes. 230/230A (Clarenville) or Rte. 233 (Port Blanford) o Bonavista Peninsula o Trinity via Rte. 239 example of a Slat Box House One itinerary describes as: This tiny town rivals any spot in the world for its simple beauty. Most of the old town is a national heritage community and there are several Provincial historic sites o Skerwick Trail (walk) at Port Rexton leads to a sea stack called Music Box also place to see kittiwakes, gannets, black-billed gulls and whales. o Port Union o Elliston the Root Cellar Capital of the World o Bonavista (John Cabot landing) Ryan Premises National Historic Site o Cape Bonavista Lighthouse Provincial Historic Site. o Keels small fishing community west side of Bonavista Peninsula Heritage Run (480km) Rte. 210 o Burin Peninsula most communities of east side around Placentia Bay first European settlements due good harbour fishing etc. o Swift Current o Fortune Bay o Burin Harbour o Grand Bank quintessential Outport & Provincial Seaman s Museum o Fortune 1 hour ferry to St Pierre et Miquelon Lighthouse in middle of ecological reserve of pre-cambrian and Cambrian 530 million years old fossils o Frenchman s Cove on Rte. 213 then a hike to Garnish & Grand Beach to see light over Fortune Bay. Avalon Scenic Routes: Osprey Trial (30km) from Rte. 1 take Rte. 201 drive southern coast of Trinity Bay Cape Shore (300km) from Rte. 1 take Rte. 100 to Placentia o Castle Hill National Historic Site (remains of French fort) o Cape St Mary s Ecological Reserve (13 km off Rte hour from Placentia) Northern Gannets (20 mins. walk to colony).

4 4 o Salmonier Nature Park on Rte species of native mammals and birds in eco-enclosures. Baccalieu Trail (230km) western access from Rte. 80 near Whitbourne on Rte. 1 o Heart s Content Transatlantic Cable Station Provincial Historic Site o Winterton Newfoundland & Labrador Wooden Boat Museum o Grates Cove National Historic Site of Rock Walls built by farmers Baccalieu Island Ecological Reserve with 3 million pairs of Leach s Storm Petrels nesting and Interpretive Centre at Bay de Verde. o Harbour Grace Pirate Easton s Fort museum Take-off point for Amelia Earhart s transatlantic flight in 1932 o Bay Roberts Cable Building National Historic Site and Road to Yesterday Museum Shoreline Heritage Trail, a leisurely stroll to Mad Rock. o Cupids First official English Colony in Canada. Established by John Guy in Excavations underway in newest Provincial Historic Site. o Brigus Birthplace of Capt. Bob Bartlett who guided Robert Perry to within shouting distance of the North Pole in Hawthorne Cottage National Historic Site Admiral s Coast (70km) along western and southern shores of Conception Bay - mix of rural and urban o Avondale History of NL railroad o Conception Bay south collection of shoreline communities from Seal Cove to Topsail Killick Coast (55km) east from Topsail to Cape St. Francis and ends near St. John s o Scenery along coast is spectacular o Killick Coast St. Thomas to Logy Bay (a favorite for locals) Portugal Cove St. Philips Bele Island Pouch Cove and Flatrock Saint John s and Environs o Pippy Park has an RV Campground o Signal Hill (Marconi, Cabot Tower and view of St. John s) o "The Rooms" museum NL history etc. o Water Street o Cathedral o Basilica

5 5 o Johnson Geo Centre o Memorial University Botanical Gardens o Logy Bay Memorial University Ocean Sciences Centre o Dinner at The Bread & Cheese Country Inn (authentic NL cuisine) o Cape Spear (12 km from St. John s) Most easterly point of North America. Oldest lighthouse in NL (1836) o Bay Bulls Scenic Routes: Irish Loop (310km) south of St. John s Rte. 10 o Witless Bay Ecological Reserve (boat tours - best site in No. Am. for Puffins and Humpback whales) o Petty Harbour one of first fishing villages o East Coast Trail from Cape St. Francis to Cappahayden Ferryland one of oldest European settlements (Interpretation Centre) Cape Race Mistaken Point 565 million years old fossils Visitor Centre at Portugal Cove has displays and Cape Race Trepassey Community Museum St. Vincent s whales near shore Our travels in Newfoundland Red: Outbound Green: Return

6 6 Route in Detail Since we had toured New Brunswick and Nova Scotia during an earlier trip we were prepared to proceed as quickly as possible to Newfoundland (with the exception of visiting the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site, in Baddeck, NS, which we had missed the previous year in our dash to see Puffins (see Maritimes Trip Report). Day 1: Day 2: Day 3: Day 4: Day 5: Day 6: Day 7: Ottawa to Quebec City (472km) Macdonald-Cartier Bridge to AutoRoute 50E, then Rte. 327 to Lachute, Rte. 148 east, Rte. 158 to Saint Jerome and AutoRoute 40E towards Trois Riviéres, across St. Lawrence/Bridge to Rte. 13E Route des Navigateurs to Rte. 20 and QC KOA. Camped Quebec City KOA (recommended) Quebec City to Grand Falls NB (387km) Trans-Canada Hwy. 20 to T-C Hwy 2/185 to Grand Falls. Falls and Gorge Campground (Site #5 has a great view of the gorge). Grand Falls to Grande Digue (360km) Rte. 108 across NB to Miramichi, then Rte. 11 to Richibucto, Rte. 134 to Grande Digue. Grande friends summer home Grande Digue to Baddeck (445km) Rte. 134 to Trans-Canada Hwy. 2 then T-C 104 via Truro to Canso Causeway/Cape Breton Island, Rte. 105 (up west side of Bras D Or Lake not as scenic as Rte. 4 on the east side) Camped Baddeck Cabot Trail Campground (Good Sam and KOA) Baddeck then to North Sidney (50km) Rte. 105 Camped North Sidney KOA (convenient for the ferry to Newfoundland) En-route: Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. Ferry North Sidney NS to Port aux Basques Newfoundland (NL) The crossing takes 6 hours and you have to check-in at least 2 hours before departure. It is essential to book in advance and we suggest paying the nominal fee for a cabin with a window this is where we napped after a good quality lunch in the ships main restaurant. In Port aux Basques we stayed at the Saint Christophe s Hotel, rather than go a campground at 6pm. The hotel is in a good location overlooking the harbour.

7 7 Day 8: Day 9: Day 10: Day 11: Day 12: Day 13: Day 14: Port aux Basques to Blow Me Down Provincial Park campground (260km). Trans-Canada to Rte. 450 at Corner Brook (needed GPS to navigate in Corner Brook to find Rte. 450 since with no signs we ended up back on the T-C!) to Lark Harbour Blow Me Down Provincial Park allow you to dry camp in the day-use area which is right on the shore (a great stop) Blow Me Down Provincial Park Local touring of Lark Harbour and Bottle Cove Lark Harbour to Trout River (193km) Rte. 450 to Corner Brook (James Cook Scenic Route) to Trans-Canada #1 to Deer Lake then Rtes. 430 and 431 to the Tablelands Discovery Centre. Camped at the National Park Campground in Trout River in the Gros Morne National Park Visited the Tablelands Discovery Centre and booked the Tablelands guided tour for the next day Trout River to Rocky Harbour via Tablelands National Park (105km) Rtes. 431 and 430 Tablelands guided walking tour across the only location in the world where the Earths Mantle is exposed on the surface. Camped Rocky Harbour RV Campground, nothing spectacular but conveniently located near the centre of town and thus a good location for day trips into the Gros Morne National Park. Rocky Harbour to Port au Choix (168km) Rte. 430 (Viking Trail Scenic Route) Western Brook Pond (an inland fjord) boat tour. The Western Brook Pond Boat Tour (Bon Tours) is accessed by a 3km walking trail (no shuttle bus) through wetlands and peaty bogs that now separate the once salt-water fjord from the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. It is a beautiful and easy walk. We highly recommend the boat tour which should be booked in advance. Port au Choix to Saint Anthony (215km) Rte. 430 Visited Port au Choix National Historic Site (an essential stop to learn about the First Inhabitants of Canada for the Fives Ages of Canada book) and the French Rooms Cultural Centre (more information for the book ). Saint Anthony A great iceberg boat tour operated by Northland Boat Tour. Visit to the Grenfell Properties about the life and times of Wilfred Grenfell a missionary-doctor from England (information for the book )

8 8 Day 15: Day 16: Day 17: Day 18: Day 19: L Anse aux Meadows then to St. Barbe (142km) Rtes. 430, 436, 430 Fascinating visit to the L Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site and nearby Norstead a recreation of what a European Viking port may have looked like during the Viking era AD (both provided information for the book!). Stopped at the fascinating Stagehead Carving Shop in Criquet (and bought a beautiful whale tail carving). Camped at the RV campground next to the terminal for the ferry across the Saint Lawrence to the Quebec/Labrador border. Basic but with good laundry etc. facilities and very convenient for the ferry to Labrador (we had planned to spend two days in Labrador but the weather forecast for the east coast of Labrador was lousy so we continued our tour of Newfoundland). St. Barbe to Rocky Harbour (237km) Rte. 430 En-route stops included the Arches Provincial Park Overnight was the Ocean View Hotel in Rocky Harbour so we could secure a ticket for the usually sold-out Anchors Aweigh musical evening in the large hotel bar cum entertainment lounge (a must to hear authentic Newfoundland folk music there would be more to come). Rocky Harbour to Grand-Falls Windsor (293km) Rte. 430 to Trans-Canada Hwy. 1 Camped at the well maintained Sanger Memorial RV Park. Grand-Falls Windsor to Twillingate (160km) Trans-Canada Hwy. 1 to Rte. 340 (scenic route Road to the Islands Visits included: the Salmonid Interpretation Centre in Grand-Falls Windsor; Beothuk Provincial Historic Site at Boyd s Cove (more information for the book ); Long Point Lighthouse on the outskirts of Twillingate. Camped at Peyton Woods Campground in Back Harbour just outside Twillingate. A great location on a bay of a picturesque fishing harbour. We were lucky since there were several icebergs in the bay which made for beautiful sunset photo ops. Twillingate Another iceberg boat tour. This one operated by Twillingate Adventure Tours did not disappoint. It is run by a local brother and sister who also own a small restaurant dockside serving typical Newfoundland fare. Whenever possible we opt for tours etc. run by a local.

9 9 Day 20: Day 21: Day 22: Day 23: Day 24: Day 25: Twillingate Local touring included Capelin Beach and Mervin s boathouse in nearby Durrell (just ask a local how to find Mervin). In the evening we enjoyed another wonderful Newfoundland musical evening performed by a local all women group called The Split Peas (not to be missed). Twillingate to Fogo Island (100km) Rtes. 340, 335, Ferry to Fogo Island (45mins) then Rte. 333 We strongly recommend spending a few days on the picturesque and historic Fogo Island The Brimstone Head Lions Club campground was/is such a delightful spot we stayed for three days and on a future visit we will certainly stay longer. Hiked the boardwalk to the top of Brimstone Head (great exercise and views) Tilting, Fogo Island Local touring included: historic town of Titling and lunch at the iconic and renowned Fogo Island Inn. Fogo Island Local touring included: Marconi Wireless Station Site and Interpretation Centre in the town of Fogo followed by a 5.5km walk on the Lion s Den Trail; then a visit to the Fogo Island Marine Interpretation Centre in Seldom (where we learned more about the history of the cod fishery). Fogo Island to Lumsden (140km) Ferry then Rte. 335 to Rte. 331, Rte. 332 loop via Frederickton (with 5+km of gravel road not worth the detour) then Rte Lumsden to Elliston, south of Bonavista (305km) Rte. 320, Trans-Canada Hwy through the Terra Nova National Park, Rte. 233 via Musgravetown (not worth the detour) to Rte. 230 to Elliston. Stop at the Terra Nova National Park Visitor Centre and a short detour to see Newtown known as the Venice of Newfoundland Camped at the Elliston Municipal Campground (good location and OK facilities) Elliston bills itself as the Root Cellar Capital of the World but better yet and a short walk from the municipal campground takes you to a cliff where you can see Puffins very up-close-and- personal.

10 10 Day 26: Day 27: Day 28: Day 29: Day 30: Elliston and to Bonavista Rte. 238 to Bonavista and Rte. 230 from Bonavista en-route to Trinity More Puffin viewing before taking Rte. 238 to Bonavista (7km) and 6km further the historic Cape Bonavista Lighthouse. Bonavista is where John Cabot made his historic landfall in the New World in Visited: Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, Mockbeggar Plantation, the Ryan Premises and the Matthew Legacy Site (lots of information for the book!). Camped at the Paradise Farm RV campground on Rte. 230 between Bonavista and Trinity (our next stop). Bonavista to Trinity (50km) Rte. 230 Stopped en-route in historic Port Union with visits to several worthwhile museums. Trinity has much to offer tourists we visited all/most of the historic buildings in town (merchant fishermen premises/trading shops etc.) and in the evening attended back-to-back theatre performances one a play in the Parish Hall followed by a musical in the Trinity Theatre. Trinity We hiked the stunningly beautiful Sherwink Trail (5.5km/3.5 miles) that for the most parts hugs the cliff top. That evening a Dinner Theatre put on by a local amateur group. Trinity to St. Brides/Cape St. Mary s (286km) Rtes. 230 SE, 220, Trans-Canada #1 (100+km) to Rtes. 202, 101 and 100 Camped at the Gannets Nest RV Campground which is just a short hop to the Cape St. Mary s Ecological Reserve (host to a colony of Northern Gannets and our main reason for venturing to the southwestern tip of the Avalon Peninsula) Cape St. Mary s to Portugal Cove South - SW tip of Avalon Peninsula (200km) Rtes. 100, 92, 91, 90 and 10 First stop was Cape St. Mary s Ecological Reserve to view the Gannets (we were not disappointed) We dry-camped at the Portugal Cove South Interpretive Centre and booked the next day s guided tour of the unique fossil beds at Mistaken Point (only one tour each day)

11 11 Day 31: Day 32: Day 33: Day 34: Day 35: Day 36: Day 37: Portugal Cove South to Bauline East (115km) Fascinating guided tour of the Mistaken Point Fossil Beds Then Rte. 10 (a continuation of designated The Irish Loop scenic route) to Bauline East. Camped at the well-appointed Celtic Rendezvous by the Sea RV Park and Cottages in Bauline East. The campground is on a cliff-top and there is a grassy knoll with great views of the bay and Atlantic Ocean which is a perfect spot to enjoy Happy Hour! Our reason for staying here was to visit Historic Ferryland and take a whale watching boat tour out of Bay Bulls in the following days. Ferryland (35km south of Bauline East) Ferryland Archeological Site and Interpretive Centre Bay Bulls and to St. John s one day earlier than planned (40km) Rte. 10 Whale Watching out of Bay Bulls Time for another hotel fix (Holiday Inn Express though on outskirts of town has ample outdoor parking suitable for RVs and a short walk takes you to a bus stop for a short ride into town). St. John s Local touring/sightseeing included The Rooms Provincial Museum and Archives (well worth several hours) and historic Water Street. St. John s Local touring included Signal Hill and Cape Spear (most easterly point of Canada) St. John s Local touring included picturesque Quidi Vidi and its brewery. St. John s to Bell Island Return Rtes. 20, 20/19, 21, 40/15, 40, Ferry to Bell Island, 40, 10 and return (80+km) Day 38: St. John s to Brigus on the Bay de Verde Peninsula (80km) Rtes. 10, 60 (via Paradise, Holyrood, Brigus) Brigus is historic and hometown to Capt. Bartlett arctic explorer and who guided Robert Peary to the North Pole. Visited Bartlett s house (now a museum), Brigus township museum, and church then walked to view historic homes all worthwhile.

12 12 Day 39: Day 40: Day 41: Day 42: Day 43: Day 44: Day 46: Day 47: Day 48: Brigus to Kingston (77km) Rtes. 60, 70 En-route stopped in Cupids for guided tour of the Cupids Archeological Site (site of the first European (English) settlement in Canada led by John Guy in 1610). Also, visited the Cupids Legacy Centre. Kingston Camped at the delightful Ocean View Campground (un-advertised and run by the very hospitable Brendan and Jean O Leary). We liked it so much we stayed for 7 days and used it as a base for day-trips in the Bay de Verde Peninsula. Kingston R&R day at Ocean View Campground and local beaches. Kingston Day trip Rtes. 70, 80, 74, 70 Visited historic Bay de Verde, Grates Cove, Old Perlican, Winterton, Heart s Content, Victoria, Kingston (180km - the top loop of the Baccalieu Trail on the Bay de Verde Peninsula) Kingston Ocean View Campground) Kingston We had heard that the campground in Winterton was full of mostly seasonal campers so we decided to stay put at Ocean View and to take a day trip to Winterton to visit the Newfoundland and Labrador Wooden Boat Museum and then the Cable Station Provincial Historic Site at Heart s Content. Kingston to Gander (326km) Rtes. 70, 73, Trans-Canada Hwy.1, Rte. 330 (at Gander to Country Inn Trailer Park campground). Gander to Deer Lake (325km) Rte. Trans-Canada Hwy.1 Deer Lake to St. Barbe (309km) We had planned to take the ferry from St. Barbe to Labrador but a family emergency meant we had to head for home.