OMAN 08 JUNE 2013 TRAVEL WEEKLY SUPPLEMENT

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Martina Moody
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1 08 JUNE 2013 TRAVEL WEEKLY SUPPLEMENT

OMAN S ROUND TRIP FOR A CLASSIC EXPERIENCE OF OMAN, THIS SIX-DAY CIRCUIT STARTING AND FINISHING IN MUSCAT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO BEAT.

RICHIE KENZIE LEADS YOU ON A TRAIL OF DISCOVERY LEGEND START/FINISH KEY TOWN/CITY OVERNIGHT STAY PLACE OF INTEREST DAY ONE Muscat to Jebel Akhdar: The journey begins with an early morning departure

The first day s voyage will acquaint guests with the ochre and earthen colours of the Hajar Mountains, which sweep from Oman s northernmost Musandam Peninsula for some 500km across the northeast of

After leaving the capital the dry and sun scorched roads wind upwards into the Jebel Akhdar, which at around 3000 metres is the highest and most breathtaking terrain in the country.

2 OMAN S ROUND TRIP FOR A CLASSIC EXPERIENCE OF OMAN, THIS SIX-DAY CIRCUIT STARTING AND FINISHING IN MUSCAT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO BEAT. WITH A PROFUSION OF NATURAL, CULTURAL AND HISTORIC SITES ALONG THE WAY, THIS JOURNEY WILL LEAVE TRAVELLERS IN RAPTURES. RICHIE KENZIE LEADS YOU ON A TRAIL OF DISCOVERY LEGEND START/FINISH KEY TOWN/CITY OVERNIGHT STAY PLACE OF INTEREST DAY ONE Muscat to Jebel Akhdar: The journey begins with an early morning departure from the Omani capital, taking to the road in a quest to discover Oman s storied interior in the Al Batinah province. The first day s voyage will acquaint guests with the ochre and earthen colours of the Hajar Mountains, which sweep from Oman s northernmost Musandam Peninsula for some 500km across the northeast of the country to the coastline near Sur. After leaving the capital the dry and sun scorched roads wind upwards into the Jebel Akhdar, which at around 3000 metres is the highest and most breathtaking terrain in the country. Indeed, this stretch of the Hajar Mountains includes the highest peaks on the entire Arabian Peninsula. During this day-long ascent there are many worthwhile diversions; that the journey is more rewarding than the final destination is a truism that visitors to Oman will promptly appreciate. The first major stop is the Nakhal Fort, some 120km out of Muscat. This pre-islamic defensive structure is carved out of colossal boulders and lacks any distinct architectural pattern. In 1990 parts of its crumbling interior were lovingly restored using local materials and today the fort is as magnificent as the day it was built. Photographers who call in before noon will be rewarded with light conditions that will deliver that ethereal Arabian photograph looking out over vast date palm plantations. Not far away from the fort lies the town of Rustaq, famed for its sulfur rich hot springs. With legendary curative powers, these 45 degree waters might seem a trifle warm considering the prevailing climate, but the locals swear by them. It s another spot that makes for a stunning photo with its aquamarine colours all the more vivid in the Omani sunshine. There are several wadis along this route too. These river beds trickle or flow with water depending on the season and the acres of palm trees and mountainous backdrop means they are ripe for exploring. Wadi Bani Auf may be the pick, but a visit to Wadi Sahtan gives visitors a chance to observe honeybee farmers at work the cultivation of this sweet substance being a centuries old Omani tradition. Last stop before overnighting at the Sahab Hotel in the Jebel Akhdar range is the small town of Birkat al Mawz, the gateway to the highest mountains of the region.» TRAVEL WEEKLY SUPPLEMENT JUNE

DAY TWO Jebel Akhdar to Jebel Shams After a sound night s rest, the second day of the round trip kicks off with a trip to Tanuf, a small village not far from Nizwa that has gained renown for its

Oman s rugged mountains also conceal vast networks of caves. One of the best and most accessible is the Al Hotta Cave system, which is thought to be about two million years old.

A 45 minute tour of the caves will reveal its two massive internal lakes and illuminates the habitats of over 100 different species. There s even a mini train that takes you through its expanse.

3 DAY TWO Jebel Akhdar to Jebel Shams After a sound night s rest, the second day of the round trip kicks off with a trip to Tanuf, a small village not far from Nizwa that has gained renown for its seasonal waterfalls. The steep and jagged terrain here gives these cascades a certain presence and the nearby Wadi Tanuf is as restful a spot as the country has to offer. Oman s rugged mountains also conceal vast networks of caves. One of the best and most accessible is the Al Hotta Cave system, which is thought to be about two million years old. It stretches for about 4.5km into the mountains, with about 500 metres accessible to visitors. A 45 minute tour of the caves will reveal its two massive internal lakes and illuminates the habitats of over 100 different species. There s even a mini train that takes you through its expanse. Misfat al Abyreen is the next stop off. A small village surrounded by date palms on the crest of a canyon, this ancient settlement is perfect hiking territory. A short stroll, a few knockout photo opportunities and you ll be on your way again. En route to Jebel Shams, Oman s highest peak, a stop at Wadi Ghul is essential. Not for nothing is this area known as Oman s Grand Canyon. The views here are astonishing and the ascent to the mountaintop will amaze at every twist of the road summiting Jebel Shams will offer the consummate view of the Hajar mountains. After all this adventure, cool your heels with a stay at The View, an eco-friendly luxury tented property that ll leave you feeling on top of the world. Previous page: Wekan village en route to Jebel Akhdar Above: Oman is a land of tradition Above right: Misfat al Abyreen in the Jebel Akhdar Right: The Jebel Akhdar is Oman s highest region 10 JUNE 2013 TRAVEL WEEKLY SUPPLEMENT

Above: The World Heritage listed Bahla Fort Right: Nizwa s skyline with date plantations on the city s outskirts Below: Minarets and market scenes in Nizwa DAY THREE Jebel Shams to Nizwa Only a 45

The largest city in the Al Dakhiliyah region and home to 70,000 people, it is the site of architectural wonders, cultural institutions and a thriving date growing centre.

Architecturally splendid and on a leviathan scale, this is Oman s most visited national monument and that s little wonder when its vast interior is explored.

Here you can bargain among tiny stalls whose vendors hawk frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood, dates, embroidered garments and handcrafted silver.

4 Above: The World Heritage listed Bahla Fort Right: Nizwa s skyline with date plantations on the city s outskirts Below: Minarets and market scenes in Nizwa DAY THREE Jebel Shams to Nizwa Only a 45 minute drive from The View lies the ancient Omani capital of Nizwa. The largest city in the Al Dakhiliyah region and home to 70,000 people, it is the site of architectural wonders, cultural institutions and a thriving date growing centre. When visiting, travellers can t miss Nizwa Fort. Originally dating from the 12th century, the current incarnation was constructed over 12 years in the 1650s. Architecturally splendid and on a leviathan scale, this is Oman s most visited national monument and that s little wonder when its vast interior is explored. After this historical interlude, head to the frenetic alleys of Nizwa s famed souk. Here you can bargain among tiny stalls whose vendors hawk frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood, dates, embroidered garments and handcrafted silver. A quintessentially Omani keepsake is the khanjar dagger worn by Omani men. The next highlight to tick off is a visit to the city s World Heritage listed falaj (irrigation) system. The life giving artery of an otherwise parched settlement, this watercourse has sustained the populace and agriculture of Nizwa for centuries. And just outside of town is another World Heritage listed site in Bahla Fort. The old wall of Bahla was, as legend has it, erected in a night. With 132 watchtowers and 15 gates this seems improbable, but it is an impressive fortification nonetheless. En route back to Nizwa another option is Jabrin Castle. Over 300 years old and chock full of secret annexes, nooks and crannies, this structure is also an architectural treat all latticed windows, painted ceilings and decorated ramparts. End the day by kicking back at Nizwa s Golden Tulip Hotel.» TRAVEL WEEKLY SUPPLEMENT JUNE

DAY FOUR Nizwa to Al Sharqiya Sands Day four takes guests from the busy streets of Nizwa into Oman s deserts for an authentic taste of Arabia.

It s home to the largest souq outside of Muscat and has historical importance as a trade town dating back centuries.

Another option is the small town of Sinaw, which has its own exotic souk and a lively cattle market that rivals Nizwa s sales yard. From Sinaw onwards the vast desert beckons.

Covering 12,500 square kilometres of Omani territory, this vast expanse of cresting sand dunes is home to Bedouin tribes and, for off-road enthusiasts, is also perfect for a bit of old

5 DAY FOUR Nizwa to Al Sharqiya Sands Day four takes guests from the busy streets of Nizwa into Oman s deserts for an authentic taste of Arabia. Heading east from Nizwa, the first town to visit is Ibra, one of the country s oldest settlements and the largest in the Al Sharqiya region. It s home to the largest souq outside of Muscat and has historical importance as a trade town dating back centuries. Like much of Oman, it can also get pretty warm here too, with the mercury nudging 50 degrees in summer. Another option is the small town of Sinaw, which has its own exotic souk and a lively cattle market that rivals Nizwa s sales yard. From Sinaw onwards the vast desert beckons. A trip to Wahiba Sands (or Sharqiya Sands to some) is a chance to step back into a way of life that, while archaic, still endures today. Covering 12,500 square kilometres of Omani territory, this vast expanse of cresting sand dunes is home to Bedouin tribes and, for off-road enthusiasts, is also perfect for a bit of old fashioned dune bashing. The sunsets here are mesmeric; as night falls the dunes take on a golden hue before tanning orange and then crimson red as night falls. There are several options within Wahiba Sands for overnighting, but staying in a Bedouin tent under canvas beneath a brilliant star-filled sky can t be topped. Above: Green Sea Turtles inhabit Oman s coastal waters Left: Action from the Nizwa cattle markets Below: Among Nizwa s famed date plantations Below left: Accommodation at Wahiba Sands 12 JUNE 2013 TRAVEL WEEKLY SUPPLEMENT

DAY FIVE Wahiba Sands to Ras al Hadd From the desert interior to the shimmering coastline could be the theme of the fifth leg of this voyage.

Ideal for hiking, swimming and just generally kicking back, this is a place where you can enjoy several idle hours soaking up the serenity.

For a sense of Oman s traditional side, call into Jalan Bani Bu Ali, a small town renowned for devout Islamic adherence and political autonomy.

Even today it remains curiously detached from the rhythms of the rest of Oman.

6 DAY FIVE Wahiba Sands to Ras al Hadd From the desert interior to the shimmering coastline could be the theme of the fifth leg of this voyage. After bidding a reluctant farewell to the rolling dunes at Wahiba Sands, visitors ought to set a course for Wadi Ban Khalid. Ideal for hiking, swimming and just generally kicking back, this is a place where you can enjoy several idle hours soaking up the serenity. If there s been any rain, expect flashes of greenery; the landscape bursts into life after every deluge. For a sense of Oman s traditional side, call into Jalan Bani Bu Ali, a small town renowned for devout Islamic adherence and political autonomy. It s history has been chequered, with a breakaway religious movement in the nineteenth century earning the then-sultan s ire. Even today it remains curiously detached from the rhythms of the rest of Oman. End this more restful day by visiting the town of Ras al Hadd, the easternmost coastal area of the country that marks the meeting point of the Gulf of Oman and the Arabian Sea. Marvel at the lapping waters and beautiful beaches awhile before visiting nearby Ras al Jinz for a truly unique experience. This beach is renowned as the annual nesting site of over 30,000 Green Sea Turtles. The area is a protected nature reserve and coastal access is strictly controlled so a good tip is to organise your turtle viewing tour in advance. You ll feel like a regular David Attenborough as you watch these endearing marine creatures give birth to their next generation. Spend the night at the aptly named Carapace or head back to the Ras al Hadd Beach Hotel after your turtle tour. Left: The Biman Sinkhole on the road to Muscat Below left: Sur s rugged coastline Below: Swimmers at Wadi Tiwi Bottom left: Green Sea Turtles at Ras al Jinz DAY SIX Ras al Hadd to Muscat The final day of the round trip takes travellers along the famed coastal road back to Muscat. One of Oman s premier driving routes, this is Oman s answer to our very own Great Ocean Road. First stop on the drive is at the famed maritime city of Sur, reputedly the home of Sinbad the Sailor, at least according to Omani legend. While in Sur, a city tour will examine the seafaring past of its people, with a focus on dhow building at the boat yards. The Arabian coast has been patrolled by fishing and pearling vessels for centuries and the history is vividly brought to life in Sur. Today, maritime issues still play an important role and learning about the town s seafaring traditions and its importance as a trade hub with Africa and India over the centuries is an essential part of any visit. Heading onward, Wadi Tiwi and Wadi Shab are marvellous coastal examples of deep cut canyons that have flooded with water. They beckon sweaty travellers for a swim in the heat of the day and are even better for relaxing beside as you take lunch. The Biman Sinkhole is yet another impressive site en route to Muscat. A limestone crater that has filled with water, it provides another opportunity to take a dip on your travels. Qalhat is the final stop. Its forlorn and decrepit mausoleum of Bibi Maryam is certainly an arresting site. Desolation has rarely looked so attractive. The conclusive on road leg allows guests to admire the coast and reflect on six magical days of touring classical Oman. TRAVEL WEEKLY SUPPLEMENT JUNE

Highlights of Oman 10 days & 9 nights

Highlights of Oman 10 days & 9 nights Day 1 Arrive Muscat You will be met on arrival in Muscat and transferred to the Ruwi Hotel, or similar, where you stay one night. Day 2 Muscat City tour After breakfast,