EGYPT 2 17 OCTOBER 2010 TOUR REPORT

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1 EGYPT 2 17 OCTOBER 2010 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW This tour was a refinement of previous tour itineraries, and for just the second time the Egyptian section was supplemented with a visit to the ancient monuments of Petra, the inclusion of Jordan also adding a further injection of great birds. We acquired a bird list of 178 species, which in Jordan included great birds such as Syrian Serin, Sinai Rosefinch, Namaqua Dove, Tristram s Starling, Temminck s and Bar-tailed Larks, Desert Finch, Palestine Sunbird, Scrub Warbler and a thrilling Hume s Owl. In Egypt our explorations around Cairo found Kittlitz s Plover, Greater Painted Snipe, Senegal Thick-knee, Senegal Coucal, White-throated Kingfisher and Red Avadavat. Around the deserts and sewage ponds of Sinai we found Lichtenstein s, Spotted and Crowned Sandgrouse, while migrant raptors included Steppe, Booted, Imperial, Lesser Spotted and Greater Spotted Eagles, and Levant Sparrowhawk. Around the Red Sea we found White-eyed and Sooty Gulls, White-cheeked, Greater Crested and Lesser Crested Terns, many Sooty Falcons and a migrant Little Crake. Our final stop at Abu Simbel was typically birdy with African Pied Wagtails, Spotted Crakes, White-tailed Lapwing, White-crowned Wheatears, Greater Hoopoe Larks, and the icing-on-the-cake in the form of a roosting Egyptian Nightjar, a thrilling finale and our Bird-of-the trip. We also visited the Pyramids of Giza and Saqqara, the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Hatshepsut and the Temple of Karnak in Luxor, the Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel, and viewed the treasure of Tutankhamen in the Egyptian Museum. Arriving in the great city of Cairo in the late evening, we rose early and headed out to the saline lakes of Wadi Natrun. Our target of Kittlitz s Plovers, here at their northernmost outpost, was quickly located feeding around the salt-encrusted flats, alongside many other shorebirds such as Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Spur-winged Lapwings, Little and Temminck s Stints, Dunlin, Common Snipe, and dainty Marsh Sandpipers. Whiskered Terns were quite numerous, and around the rushy pools and marshes we saw Crested Larks, Egyptian Wagtails, our first Graceful Prinias and red-bellied Egyptian Swallows. Well satisfied with our first Egyptian birds, we sped back to Cairo for an afternoon amongst the antiquities, beginning with the awesome Great Pyramids of Giza and attendant Sphinx. A little further to the south, we also visited the Step Pyramid of Saqqara that dates from 1 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

2 2650BC, and is reputedly the oldest building in the world! Along nearby irrigation canals we saw our first Squacco Herons and Pied Kingfishers, but the birding definitely took a back seat this afternoon! The next morning we explored marginal wetland habitats within the delta of the Nile, an area of intense agriculture that has a surprising amount of birds to offer. In roadside fields, one of the first birds we saw was a Senegal Coucal sat atop a hedge, normally a real skulker which we expected a struggle to find at this time of year! Also here were White-throated Kingfishers, our first Senegal Thick-knees sat on the banks of a canal, and in a grassy corner we enjoyed a good look at the introduced Red Avadavat, some brilliant Green Bee-eaters, Southern Grey Shrike and the demure Common Bulbul. Fishponds here were busy with wetland species, and we found Black-crowned Night Heron, Little Bitterns, Glossy Ibis, Black-winged Stilts, and some very smart Greater Painted Snipes in a roadside ditch. We had good looks at Temminck s Stints, a Clamorous Reed Warbler trying to eat a dragonfly, and some migrant Willow and Sedge Warblers. After a busy mornings birding we pitched back into the Cairo traffic, paused for lunch in a restaurant floating on the mighty Nile, and made an introductory visit to the remarkable Egyptian museum. We lunged through the crowds of excited tourists clogging the stuffy corridors, and stood in (air-conditioned) awe before the solid golden death mask of Tutankhamen. A return to the Delta fields and fishponds added more Greater Painted Snipes, African Swamphen, Striated Heron and a flock of Spanish Sparrows, then we packed up to leave Egypt for a short while, and fly to Amman in Jordan. A very different country, altogether more modern than the overcrowded one we had just left, and on arrival we were whisked away along the Desert Highway to our luxurious hotel in Petra, arriving in time for dinner. We began our visit to the ancient Nabataean city soon after dawn, to make the most of the cooler hours, though unfortunately we were not alone as many regular tourists had the same idea! We ambled slowly down to the spectacular Siq (the entrance gorge to the site) and enjoyed close views of Sinai Rosefinches, Desert Larks, Pale Crag Martins, White-spectacled Bulbuls, Blackstart and Mourning Wheatear, and a male Palestine Sunbird that showed briefly. We penetrated the narrow cleft, and on reaching the far end were treated to the spectacular sight of the Treasury framed by the walls of the canyon. We explored the site for a while longer, soaking up the multi-coloured rocks and the spectacular landscape, before sweating our way out again and going for a fine lunch. We headed further afield in the afternoon, to the impressive Crusader Castle of Ash Showbak. In nearby bushy gullies and open country we found European Roller, Masked Shrike, a quartet of Scrub Warblers, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, a Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Red-rumped Swallows and a surprise flock of Syrian Serins sat on a wire. We had one more stop to make, at Little Petra, where we quickly looked around the rock-cut edifices before dusk, then positioned ourselves at the foot of a suitable crag and waited for the night to close in around us. Soon we heard what we had been waiting for, the barking hoot of a Hume s Owl high on a cliff. He came gliding across without moving his wings, and landed above us on the rock. Hurrah! Lifers all round! He presented himself from different angles before tiring of our attention and heading off over the high tops. A happy end to a great day, we headed back for another comfortable night at our Petra hotel. Heading northward across the plateau the following morning, we were treated to the sight of hundreds of Tristram s Starlings sat upon village houses, before we reached the verdant valley sides of Wadi Dana. A couple of hours exploration here revealed a single Syrian Serin, Ortolan Bunting, Eastern Black-eared Wheatear, many Blackcaps, Common Redstarts, Great Tits, plenty of Chukar and a soaring group of Eurasian Griffon Vultures. Continuing onwards from here we found a lively flock of Rock Sparrows and some European Bee-eaters, and at lower altitudes we enjoyed a picnic stop where Blackstart, Scrub Warblers, Desert Larks and our first White-crowned Wheatears hopped around our feet. We dropped down into the Dead Sea lowlands, where at altitudes of up to 400m 2 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

3 we dodged between patches of shade, finding a few birds such as a migrant Red-breasted Flycatcher, Palestine Sunbird, the blue-headed cyanophrys form of Green Bee-eater, Fan-tailed Ravens, and a couple of fly-by Namaqua Doves. The Sea itself of course supports no birdlife, so we headed back up the escarpment for an overnight stay in the capital Amman. A last morning in Jordan saw us making a brief visit to the open desert east of the city. At the roadside we found plenty of good birds, with several Temminck s Lark making a prompt appearance alongside Desert, Northern and Isabelline Wheatears, Tawny and a migrant Tree Pipit, Greater Shorttoed Larks, an errant Purple Heron, a smart male Lesser Kestrel, and a trio of Bar-tailed Larks that teased us with a brief look. A final scan of suitable habitat yielded a flock of Desert Finches feeding on the ground, before we were hurried back to the airport for our onward flight to Sharm el Sheikh. We flew south to the Sinai Peninsula, to Sharm el Sheikh with its colony of tourist hotels. Luckily for us, the huge number of hotels need sanitation, and out in the desert are sewage treatment works that are alive with bird life. Our birding centred around this delightful if rather pungent spot, and on our first afternoon we met hundreds of White Storks, an immature Great White Pelican, a Greater Spotted Eagle perched in nearby trees, immature Imperial Eagle, and several Red-throated Pipits. We waited here as dusk fell, and just when it was too dark to see much, in came five Lichtenstein s Sandgrouse, scuttling down the concrete banks to drink some mucky water before shooting off again, silhouetted against the orange sky. Returning in the early morning, we were refused entry by the ever-present Egyptian police and security, who were now telling us that we needed a permit to get in! Luckily, our able guide knew how to get around such nonsense, and we got in just in time for the big Sandgrouse show. First up was a group of Spotted Sandgrouse that sat on the concrete banks, and then they took off to join a larger party that sat in the open desert nearby. Joined by even more newcomers, they then came flying towards us, circling the ponds and calling. After these stunning looks, we then found a group of seven Crowned Sandgrouse had dropped in as well, and we enjoyed prolonged views of these beauties as they nervously paced up and down, eventually scurrying down to the waters edge to drink before heading off into the hills of Sinai. There were other good birds here too, and we saw Black Stork, Glossy Ibis, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Garganey, Common Greenshank, Green and Wood Sandpipers. We didn t have the good fortune of witnessing a major raptor passage during our stay, yet most of the species were present and we saw some fine Levant Sparrowhawks, plus Lesser Spotted, Steppe, Imperial and Booted Eagles, Egyptian Vulture, Steppe Buzzards and a single Common Crane. The southernmost point of Sinai lies within the nearby National Park of Ras Mohammed, and we visited this rather desolate place for a spot of snorkelling over the famous fish-rich reefs, plus we found a few migrants such as a juvenile Pallid Harrier, Eurasian Curlew, Greater Sand Plovers, Slender-billed Gulls, Red-backed Shrikes and Isabelline Wheatears, in addition to the resident Ospreys. Moving ever onwards, we took a 31-minute flight across to Hurghada on the African side of the Red Sea, not so long ago just a fishing village, but now a long ribbon of tourism developments. Searches from the shore introduced us to our first White-eyed Gulls, plus some Greater Crested and Caspian Terns. Another sewage plant lured us, and we had the nice surprise of an immature Little Crake creeping along reed-fringed concrete banks, along with some Ruff, Gull-billed Tern, Blue-headed Wagtails and a lone Whinchat. The built-up coastline here lies opposite an archipelago of desert islands where many interesting species nest, so we boarded a comfortable boat for a day on the water. White-eyed Gulls followed us out of port, and we headed out toward the main island, weaving our way through the many boats that dotted the sea here. Sooty Falcons perched on the sandy islands, while others flew about in the stiff breeze, with a total of seven birds in all. We found a busy flock of seabirds attending a shoal of fish in a feeding frenzy, and we had good close views of White-cheeked Terns in various plumages, some smart Lesser Crested Terns, and eventually we found some Sooty Gulls. A flock of European Oystercatchers lurked on a beach, plus some Ruddy 3 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

4 Turnstones and a summer-plumaged Grey Plover. The bright azure waters here also provided some fantastic snorkelling, completing what was a very pleasurable day. From here, we headed down the coast and across the Eastern Desert to the Nile Valley once more. It was a fairly bird-free journey, with just single Mourning and White-crowned Wheatears and a Peregrine Falcon to break the monotony of rocks and sand. On reaching the riverine corridor of greenery and the city of Luxor, we checked into our well-appointed hotel on Crocodile Island where Nile Valley Sunbirds buzzed around the flowering trees in the large gardens. The main reason to stay here is of course the world-class antiquities, and our first stop was the giant Karnak Temple. Early the next morning we visited the Valley of the Kings, and here we viewed some of the bestdecorated tombs. We also visited the Valley of the Queens, where aside from beautifully painted tombs we found three very tame Trumpeter Finches hopping about under some benches. We saw the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon, some Black-shouldered Kites, Masked Shrike and a couple of Ruff, before heading back to our hotel for the hottest part of the day. A gentle afternoon stroll around Crocodile Island was sorely tested, as heavy trucks and diggers thundered about constructing new developments on the farmland that used to be here, but we did manage to find Senegal Thick-knees, Red-rumped Swallows, Green Bee-eaters, many Eurasian Hoopoes, European Turtle Doves, Purple Herons, an African Swamphen and flocks of Red-throated Pipits and Blue-headed Wagtails. Continuing our journey south, we sped along the highway through the cultivated Nile valley seeing Striated Heron and Egyptian Geese as we went, passing through the city of Aswan and up to its airport on the opposite side of the old Dam. We quickly checked in, and were soon deposited by Egypt Air at Abu Simbel airport, where the temperature is now 37 degrees! Arriving in the middle of the day was rather like stepping into an oven, but inside our hotel we were able to take an airconditioned break until it was time to head the short distance down to the great Temple of Ramses II. We enjoyed a visit to these magnificent monuments, made doubly famous by the fact that they were moved block by block ahead of the rising waters of Lake Nasser, and realigned perfectly so that the sun still shines into the interior twice a year. A few birds here hinted at what a birdy area this is, with White-crowned Wheatears hopping around the temple, plus Pale Crag Martins with migrant House Martins overhead. With an early start to try and beat the heat, we headed to a bijou little wetland where we found a confiding White-tailed Lapwing, Spur-winged Lapwings, Wood and Green Sandpipers, while in the bushes lurked Clamorous Reed Warblers, furtive Sardinian and Marsh Warblers, and Common Redstarts. On the open lakeshore we saw an African Pied Wagtail, an indication of just how far south we had come. Out on the vast Lake Nasser were many Whiskered Terns plus a few White-winged and Gull-billed Terns, and some Great White Pelicans. A search among the lakeshore bushes provided great excitement when we found a roosting Egyptian Nightjar, with delicately patterned plumage providing perfect camouflage against the sandy soil, sitting unperturbed in the shade of a bush looking like an up-ended blancmange. Hurrah! Bird-of-the-trip for this group! We headed away from the settlement and headed into the deserts that lie around the Lake, and found some superb Greater Hoopoe Larks After initially running from us, they chose to return, running straight towards us, perching on a nearby fence and singing to us. Now the heat was building to uncomfortable levels so we retreated to our hotel for the midday period. The shade temperature topped out at 39.1 degrees Celsius, just before it was time to go out again, but as the sun dipped in the sky it became more bearable. We found a shallow bay not far from the airport, and by the shoreline were some lovely Isabelline and Desert Wheatears, many Greater Short-toed Larks, Marsh Sandpipers and scores of noisy Egyptian Geese in the shallows, plus a large group of Eurasian Spoonbills. There is no shortage of birds here at Abu Simbel, and it was frustrating being hobbled by unreasonable temperatures! 4 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

5 A final foray in the morning took us back to the small wetland where we found two Spotted Crakes lurking in the marsh, a Caspian Reed Warbler, and a trio of African Pied Wagtails performed nearby. We ended our tour with some of the best birding, and quite possibly the best temple, a suitable finale for this very varied and fascinating tour. We then had to join a convoy in order to drive back to Aswan, another feature of Egyptian organised tourism that seems to follow no logic. We hurtled through the empty desert without incident, took a flight from Aswan to Cairo for a final night, and then bade farewell to our travelling companions and headed homeward. Egypt is a country that still retains a chaotic element despite the glossy promise of its tourism industry, and this tour is a special one that combines world-class antiquities and great birding, from Cairo to Petra, and from the Red Sea to the Sudan border. 5 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

6 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H) Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: One at the fishponds near Abbasa. PELECANIDAE Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: An immature was seen at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, and we found several adults swimming on the lake at Abu Simbel. ARDEIDAE Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus: As many as five were seen at the Abbasa fishponds. Also heard at Crocodile Island, Luxor. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Seen on a number of occasions, with some 60+ seen near Abbasa, a single at Sharm El Sheikh, and several vocal birds seen flying around Crocodile Island at Luxor. Striated Heron Butorides striatus: A single was seen at the Abbasa fishponds, another from the bridge at Crocodile Island, and a cryptic immature bird was seen along the canal south of Luxor. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Very numerous along the Nile, and particularly in the Cairo area where they seemed unafraid of humans! Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: These were in good numbers around the Abbasa fishponds, and other wet areas around Cairo. Also found along the Nile around Luxor, plus a few around Abu Simbel. Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis: We found one of these dancing in the shallows at Ras Mohammed, another at El Gouna, and a couple more seen around the islands off Hurghada. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Seen regularly in the wet habitats such as Abbasa fishponds, along the Nile, and also at Sharm el Sheikh and Abu Simbel. Great Egret Egretta alba: A single seen along the riverside near Aswan. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Seen throughout much of Egypt, from Wadi Natrun and the Delta right down to Abu Simbel, and also at Sharm el Sheikh and Ras Mohammed. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: A curious example of a lost migrant immature was seen in the Eastern Desert in Jordan, two adults were seen at Crocodile Island and another was disturbed from the shores of Lake Nasser. CICONIIDAE Black Stork Ciconia nigra: A single was seen at Sharm el Sheikh sewage works, and another single at Abu Simbel. White Stork Ciconia ciconia: At Sharm el Sheikh we met hundreds of these hanging around the sewage ponds and adjacent rocky hills. A few corpses were evident around the sewage ponds, perhaps just the natural throw-out from the whole migration season when tens of thousands of migrants would have passed this way. We also saw a dozen or more at Abu Simbel. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: 23 were seen at Abbasa, eight at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, and a few more were seen along the Nile at Luxor and at Abu Simbel. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia: A healthy number were encountered at Abu Simbel, where a flock of 51+ stood in the shallows of Lake Nasser. 6 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

7 ANATIDAE Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus: Our first examples were seen from the bus as we drove between Luxor and Aswan, then we saw some large and vocal flocks at Abu Simbel. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: A couple were seen at Sharm el Sheikh, and a flock of ten were seen on the sea at El Gouna. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: A couple were seen at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds. Garganey Anas querquedula: Singles were seen at Wadi Natrun and Abbasa, at Sharm el Sheikh there were 18 in all, two were at Hurghada sewage ponds, and at Abu Simbel there were plenty of smaller duck in the distance, presumed to be this species. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: At least three joined the mix of ducks at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, four more at Hurghada, and a few more at Abu Simbel. ACCIPITRIDAE Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus: Numerous birds were seen along the Nile cultivation between Qena and Aswan. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Many migrants were seen around Sharm el Sheikh, also we saw birds of this form around Bilbeis, and a small number on the Jordan section of the tour. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius: Plenty were seen at Abu Simbel, where the juveniles showed some odd plumages that are quite different to juvenile Black Kites, being a mix of uniform ruddy brown and whitish patches on the head. Also seen around Luxor. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: A single migrant immature was seen at Sharm el Sheikh sewage works. Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus: A group of five were seen soaring up at Wadi Dana. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Several examples seen, at Abbasa, around Hurghada, Luxor and at Abu Simbel. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus: A juvenile was disturbed from the ground at Ras Mohammed, offering all too brief looks as it flew off. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: A single bird was seen near Bilbeis, and four migrants were seen at Wadi Dana in Jordan. Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes: Just four were seen at Sharm el Sheikh, but we had some great close looks at them. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: Several singles were seen, all migrants of the race vulpinus or Steppe Buzzard, in the hills of Jordan and at Sharm el Sheikh. Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina: Despite no large raptor movements observed on Sinai, we saw three on one day and two on another at Sharm el Sheikh. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: Just a single bird seen, perched in a plantation at Sharm el Sheikh. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: Just two seen at Sharm el Sheikh, with a reasonable if distant look at one perched on a rocky hill. Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca: Two immatures were seen at Sharm el Sheikh on consecutive days. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: Two birds seen, one a typical pale morph bird at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, and another at Ras Mohammed that was more perplexing, showing typical features of a pale morph except for its well-patterned underwing which resembled that of a European Honey Buzzard! PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Multiple sightings on the tour, with birds seen at Bilbeis, Ras Mohammed, from our hotel at El Gouna, and around the lake at Abu Simbel. 7 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

8 FALCONIDAE Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni: A fine male was seen sat upon a post in the Eastern Desert in Jordan. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Common, and seen daily. Sooty Falcon Falco concolor: On our boat trip around the islands at Hurghada we found at least seven of these, both perched and in flight, with three in the air simultaneously. Peregrine Falco peregrinus: A single bird flew past us near Hurghada. PHASIANIDAE Chukar Alectoris chukar: Very numerous at Wadi Dana, with at least 40 birds seen on the slopes there. RALLIDAE European Water Rail Rallus aquaticus (H): Heard at Wadi Natrun. Spotted Crake Porzana porzana: A firm favourite, with two birds showing very well creeping about in a swamp at Abu Simbel on our last morning. Little Crake Porzana parva: A surprise write-in, a juvenile seen skulking around the concrete banks of Hurghada sewage ponds and showing very well eventually! Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Not uncommon in Egypt, with birds seen at Wadi Natrun, Abbasa, Sharm el Sheikh, Luxor and at Abu Simbel. African Swamp-hen Porphyrio madagascariensis: Three birds were seen on our second visit to Abbasa, and a single was seen at Crocodile Island. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra: A single bird seen at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds. GRUIDAE Common Crane Grus grus: A single bird was seen walking in the desert by the sewage ponds at Sharm el Sheikh, looking curiously out of place! ROSTRATULIDAE Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis: Seen on both visits to Abbasa, with three in a roadside ditch on our first visit, then at least six on our second visit, with some great looks at these cryptic waders. HAEMATOPODIDAE Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus: A flock of 11 on the shore of one of the islands off Hurghada which was nearly passed over as a flock of Gulls!. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: A handful at Wadi Natrun, some small flocks in the Bilbeis and Abbasa area, two at Sharm el Sheikh and a single at Abu Simbel. BURHINIDAE Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis: Our first sighting was of two birds at the roadside near Bilbeis, then seven were seen at Abbasa fishponds. At Crocodile Island we saw two hiding under a hedge, and at Abu Simbel we saw a further five birds. The local name is Karuwan, and the bird plays a role in Arab folklore as the Oystercatcher-like calls are thought to be prayers to God. GLAREOLIDAE Collared/Black-winged Pratincole Glareola pratincola/nordmanni: A distant flying bird at Abbasa could not be assigned to species. 8 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

9 CHARADRIIDAE Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: A handful were seen at Wadi Natrun and in the Bilbeis area, then not again until we reached Abu Simbel where several were found around Lake Nasser. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula: A single at Wadi Natrun, a couple at Abu Simbel, a handful around Hurghada and its islands, and 100+ around the Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds. Kittlitz s Plover Charadrius pecuarius: We found eight or more at Wadi Natrun, the most northerly part of their African range and one of the only regular sites in the Western Palearctic. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: A few were seen at Wadi Natrun, odd birds at Sharm el Sheikh and Ras Muhammad, and a single at Abu Simbel. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: Several were seen at Ras Muhammad on the mudflats, and a few more were seen distantly from our boat trip around the islands at Hurghada. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: A single summer-plumage bird was seen distantly on an island off Hurghada. Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus: Found commonly around the Cairo area, around Luxor, at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds and at Abu Simbel. White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus: A single bird at Abu Simbel showed very well and at close range, on both our visits to the Fish Factory. SCOLOPACIDAE Little Stint Calidris minuta: Seen in good numbers at Wadi Natrun, Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds and at Abu Simbel, with smaller numbers encountered at Abbasa Ras Mohammed and Hurghada. Temminck s Stint Calidris temminckii: Good looks at odd ones and twos of this diminutive shorebird, at Wadi Natrun, Abbasa, Sharm el Sheikh and Abu Simbel. Dunlin Calidris alpina: A flock of 20 was seen at Wadi Natrun, another 15 appeared at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, and a small number on the shore at Ras Mohammed. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Scattered sightings of these, with eight at Abbasa, two at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, three at Hurghada sewage ponds, and a couple in wet fields on the west bank at Luxor being seen off by an aggressive Spur-winged Lapwing. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: A few seen at Wadi Natrun, some singles at Abbasa, a few at Sharm el Sheikh and a single at Abu Simbel, none of which could be turned into something greater! Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: A few were seen on the shore at Ras Muhammad, a single flew past our El Gouna hotel, and 40 or more were on the mud around one of the islands off Hurghada.. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: Singles were seen at Abbasa and at Hurghada sewage ponds. Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Most numerous at Wadi Natrun where we saw 20+, then a dozen were found at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, several around the Hurghada islands, and a couple at Abu Simbel. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Six were seen on the salty lakes at Wadi Natrun, and three were seen along the shores of Lake Nasser. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Quite visible and vocal at Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada sewage ponds, with others seen at Wadi Natrun and Abu Simbel. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Widespread sightings, mainly at the sewage ponds that we visited, also at Wadi Natrun, Abbasa and Abu Simbel. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: A single was seen at Abbasa, several at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, a single at Crocodile Island and several at Abu Simbel. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Odd birds seen along our route, in all the places that we found other waders. 9 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

10 Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: At least four seen from our boat around the Hurghada islands. LARIDAE Sooty Gull Larus hemprichii: After keeping us waiting, five appeared for some decent views around Giftun Island off Hurghada, lurking among the superficially similar flocks of the following species. White-eyed Gull Larus leucophthalmus: Our first examples of this Red Sea endemic were 10 passing El Gouna on our first evening there, then on our boat trip off Hurghada we saw hundreds. We had some fun with them too, feeding them off the back of the boat they turn their nose up at bread, but both fish and melon seemed to be to their liking! Slender-billed Gull Larus genei: Our first were seen on the mud flats at Ras Mohammed, then we saw a few on the sea at Hurghada, plus a single on the sewage ponds there. STERNIDAE Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica: A single bird was in residence at Hurghada sewage ponds, and at Abu Simbel several were seen out on the lake though never very closely. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia: Two singles were seen flying down the coast at El Gouna. Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii: Three birds were seen near our hotel at El Gouna, though none came very close. Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis: At least 15 birds were seen off the Hurghada islands, with some great close views of vocal birds around our boat as they followed a shoal of fish in a feeding frenzy. White-cheeked Tern Sterna repressa: We eventually found 35 or more of these around the islands off Hurghada, and enjoyed some good views of birds both in flight and perched. A few were still in their dusky breeding plumage, with many juveniles in attendance, but most adults were already in non-breeding dress. They breed here between July and mid September. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Frequently encountered, with good numbers at Wadi Natrun and Abbasa, odd singles at Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada sewage works, then many birds seen far out at Abu Simbel were presumed to be mostly this species. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: Several birds were seen feeding over Lake Nasser, though there could have been many more out there. PTEROCLIDAE Lichtenstein s Sandgrouse Pterocles lichtensteinii: We squinted in the gloom at five dark blobs on the bank at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, best looks being their flight silhouettes as they came around and away. Unfortunately, they only come in when its too dark to see them properly! Crowned Sandgrouse Pterocles coronatus: Some superb views of a group of seven that came down to Sharm el Sheikh sewage works and sat sunning themselves and scurrying about nervously before going to drink. Another single came in to make a total of eight birds. Spotted Sandgrouse Pterocles senegallus: We had some nice views of a small group on the concrete bank at Sharm el Sheikh sewage pond, before they went off to join others sat in the desert some distance away. Another flock came flying around us and calling, making a grand total of 68 birds seen. Marvellous! COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columbia livia: Commonly encountered, especially where large dovecotes were present! An Egyptian delicacy, fed to newly-wedded men as a kind of viagra! Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto: Not uncommon around Cairo, a few seen in Jordan and also around Sharm el Sheikh, though no further south than that. 10 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

11 African Collared Dove Streptopelia roseogrisea: Two birds seen in flight only and heading away at speed were an unsatisfactory contact with this species at Abu Simbel. It is not unreasonable to assume their identity, as the previous species does not reach this far south. European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur: Ten birds seen on Crocodile Island were the only ones of the trip. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis: Seen daily, very numerous! Namaqua Dove Oena capensis: Two birds were briefly seen zipping by at the northern end of the Dead Sea in Jordan. PSITTACIDAE Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri: Two flying birds were seen at our lunch stop in central Cairo. CUCULIDAE Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis: We were very fortunate to find one of these so quickly near Bilbeis, and it obliged with repeated views as it flopped along a hedge. A second bird revealed itself nearby. At this season they are not very vocal, and typically spend their time being very skulking. STRIGIIDAE Hume s Owl Strix butleri: Whoopee! Some recent information on where to find this fellow near Petra provided us with an exciting find, and our number two Bird-of-the-trip. A very vocal bird started calling soon after dusk, as we stood in a sandy Wadi beneath some tall cliffs. He came gliding across to land on the sheer crag above us, giving us a great look as he perched in the beam of our spotlights. A welcome lifer for the leader, not to mention everyone else present! CAPRIMULGIDAE Egyptian Nightjar Caprimulgus aegyptius: Our Bird-of-the-trip, and competition with the Temple of Rameses II as the main reason to come to Abu Simbel! A dedicated search in a traditional spot yielded a quick result, as a bird flipped up and then settled back down for a prolonged viewing and photography session. With delicately patterned and camouflaged plumage, it was almost invisible as it sat in the shade of a bush. This bird is probably of the nominate race, but it is not clear whether the birds here refer to a breeding population or to migrants that may reach here from as far away as Kazakhstan. ALCEDINIDAE White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: We found at least ten of these handsome fellows on each of our two visits to the Bilbeis area, where the range of this Asian species nudges into Africa. Another was seen near the Dead Sea in Jordan. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Single birds were seen at Wadi Natrun, Bilbeis and Abu Simbel. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Not uncommon along the canals in the Cairo area, and also in good number around Luxor and between Qena and Aswan, plus a couple seen on Lake Nasser. MEROPIDAE Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis: In Egypt we first encountered these delightful fellows at Wadi Natrun and near Bilbeis, then around Luxor they were quite numerous. In Jordan we saw quite a few of the blue-headed cyanophrys race, which looks startlingly different! 11 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

12 European Bee-eater Merops apiaster: Our first of these southward-bound migrants were at the roadside near Wadi Dana, then odd birds were encountered around Sharm el Sheikh and near Luxor. CORACIIDAE European Roller Coracias garrulus: A single bird was seen on a roadside wire near Petra. UPUPIDAE Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops: Frequently seen in the Cairo region, a few were seen in Jordan, and also found at Abu Simbel. Around Luxor they were numerous, with seven feeding together on Crocodile Island. ALAUDIDAE Bar-tailed Lark Ammomanes cincturus: A trio of birds tantalised us as they flew past us in the Eastern Desert of Jordan, landing briefly before continuing their travels. Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti: Our first appeared on the way into Petra, then several others were seen around the general area. Some confiding examples appeared as we ate our packed lunch at the roadside en-route to the Dead Sea. One from the bus en-route between Hurghada and Qena was the sole Egyptian sighting. Greater Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes: A search in the desert near Abu Simbel fairly quickly yielded three of these magnificent beasts, two of which decided to start running towards us, and then serenaded us with some haunting song. Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: Four birds were seen in the Eastern Desert near Amman, another quartet were seen close to Hurghada sewage ponds, and ten or more gave good close views as they fed close to Lake Nasser on our last afternoon. Crested Lark Galerida cristata: Not uncommon around Cairo, a handful more seen in Jordan, and then seen rather commonly at Luxor and at Abu Simbel. Temminck s Lark Eremophila bilopha: At least six of these delightful birds were found scurrying about in the Eastern Desert near Amman, offering some fine views as they glowed pinkish in the early morning sun. HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin Riparia riparia: Regularly seen in small numbers at numerous points along our route, typically around wet habitats. Pale Crag Martin (Rock M) Hirundo fuligula: Commonly encountered in barren and hot rocky habitats in Jordan, with our first being seen at Petra, then in Egypt we saw them at Sharm el Sheikh, Luxor and Abu Simbel. Eurasian Crag Martin Hirundo rupestris (NL): One seen near Bilbeis. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Only missed on one day, with two forms observed. Along the Nile and at Wadi Natrun we saw many examples of the resident red-bellied form savignii, with the typical white-bellied migrant form occurring alongside, and also in Jordan and by the Red Sea. The Egyptian Swallows are surely a contender for full specific status? Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: A group of five joined a busy afternoon s birding at Ash Showbak in Jordan, another single was seen near the Dead Sea, three cruised over Crocodile Island, and another two were seen by the temples at Abu Simbel. Common House Martin Delichon urbica: A handful were seen at Sharm el Sheikh sewage ponds, then a small flock were seen at Abu Simbel. MOTACILLIDAE Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris: A flying bird was seen at Wadi Natrun, a single in the desert near Amman, and a good look at another by Lake Nasser on our final afternoon s birding. 12 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

13 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis: A single bird was seen in the desert near Amman. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: We saw our first near Bilbeis and Abbasa, then had some good views of multiple birds at Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada sewage ponds, and saw plenty in the fields on Crocodile Island. Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] flava: We frequently saw small flocks of these (with a fair number of females and immatures not identified to form) at Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada sewage ponds, at Luxor and at Abu Simbel. Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] thunbergi: Three were seen at Wadi Natrun, and a single at Abu Simbel. Egyptian Wagtail Motacilla [flava] pygmaea: Only seen for certain at Wadi Natrun, where several birds were feeding in marshy areas. We may of course have overlooked them elsewhere! White Wagtail Motacilla alba: These migrants were noted at Abbasa, Sharm el Sheikh, Hurghada and at Abu Simbel. African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp: After an absence on the previous tour, we were happy to find one by Lake Nasser, then another three were seen at close range there on our final morning almost the last birds of the trip. PYCNONOTIDAE White-spectacled Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthopygos: Rather common around Petra and Wadi Dana, and also down around the Dead Sea. Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus: Not uncommon around Bilbeis and Abbasa, also seen around Luxor. TURDIDAE Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros: Three singles seen at Petra and Wadi Dana. Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus: Quite a few were seen in Jordan, with at least ten around the bushes at Wadi Dana. Two or three were also seen at Abu Simbel. Blackstart Cercomela melanura: We found at least three birds at Petra, then as we explored the Dead Sea lowlands we found numerous examples along the way. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra: Single migrants were seen near Wadi Dana, in the desert near Amman, and at Hurghada sewage ponds. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina: We saw one near the Dead Sea, two more in the desert near Amman, another three at Ras Muhammad, one on Crocodile Island, and numerous examples around the shores of Lake Nasser. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe: We saw two in the desert near Amman, then three or four were found with the above species at Abu Simbel. Eastern Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe melanoleuca: Three were seen around Wadi Dana, plus a further single in the Dead Sea lowlands. Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti: Our first males appeared in the desert east of Amman, then we saw several around the shores of Lake Nasser. Mourning Wheatear Oenanthe lugens: Several birds were seen in and around Petra, along the routes across the highlands and down into the Dead Sea lowlands. Another popped up at Ras Muhammad by our lunch-cum-snorkel stop, and a final one was seen on our crossing of the Eastern Desert from Hurghada to Qena. White-crowned Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga: We saw our first pair of these handsome birds at our lunch stop between Wadi Dana and the Dead Sea, then a male was seen in the Eastern Desert between Hurghada to Qena. At Abu Simbel they were very visible around the temples and other buildings, and were even heard singing. Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis: A striking immature bird was seen near the castle at Ash Showbak. 13 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

14 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Several sightings of these in Jordan, with a couple at Petra itself. A single was also seen on Karnak Temple. Common Blackbird Turdus merula: Three at least were seen at Wadi Dana, vocal but shy. SYLVIIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Several were in the rushes at Wadi Natrun, and also commonly around Bilbeis and Abbasa fishponds. Another single was at Crocodile Island. Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis: Like the above, found at Wadi Natrun, Abbasa fishponds and on Crocodile Island, while at Abu Simbel they were very common in the bushes around Lake Nasser. Scrub Warbler Scotocerca inquieta: A group of five birds were seen at the roadside by Ash Showbak castle, then two joined in the fun at our lunch stop the following day, giving great views as we ate our sandwiches. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus: Migrants were regularly encountered, at Abbasa fishponds, Hurghada sewage ponds, Crocodile Island, and Abu Simbel fish factory. Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris: One or two birds seen at Abu Simbel fish factory appeared to be of this species. A rather humorous identification paper of these difficult Acrocephalus warblers can be found at European Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus: A few birds were seen around Abbasa fishponds, plus a single at Abu Simbel. Caspian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus fuscus: At least one at Abu Simbel fish factory resembled this form. Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus: Three were seen very well in the reeds at Abbasa fishponds, then at Abu Simbel we enjoyed several more confiding individuals. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida: One seen in bushes at Ash Showbak castle, and another was seen by the temple at Abu Simbel. Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala: A couple were seen skulking at Wadi Dana, then another typically furtive bird was seen at Abu Simbel. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca: Frequent sightings of these common migrants along our route, and they were particularly numerous at Luxor and Abu Simbel. Despite making some interesting calls, they all looked like normal Lesser Whitethroats S. c. curruca. Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis: Two were seen at Wadi Dana. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla: Common and numerous in Jordan particularly at Wadi Dana. In Egypt we saw just one, at Abu Simbel. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus: Quite a few seen in the Cairo area, a couple of single migrants in Jordan and at Hurghada, and a few more at Abu Simbel. MUSCICAPIDAE Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata: Only seen in Jordan where we bumped into them regularly. Red-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa parva: A splendid example of a first-year bird with a very buffy chest, found in some bushes near the Dead Sea in Jordan. PARIDAE Great Tit Parus major: Four were seen in Wadi Dana. NECTARINIIDAE Nile Valley Sunbird Anthreptes metallicus: Some great looks at these in flowering trees in our hotel garden at Luxor, and also seen at the roadside en route to Aswan. All the males were in eclipse plumage however. Palestine Sunbird Nectarinia osea: Two were seen at Petra, then a pair appeared for a prolonged view in some bushes near the Dead Sea. 14 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

15 LANIIDAE Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio: We regularly encountered these migrants, with singles seen at Ash Showbak, Ras Muhammad and Abu Simbel. Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis: A single was seen near Bilbeis, another in bushes near the Dead Sea, and finally one at Abu Simbel. Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus: Several migrants were encountered, with a few seen in Jordan, a couple around Luxor and a few more at Abu Simbel. CORVIDAE Hooded Crow Corvus cornix: Plentiful in the Cairo area, quite a few around Hurghada, and also along the Nile between Qena and Aswan. The race here is sardonius. Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis: Our first were seen in the semi-desert between Amman and Petra, then others were seen at Sharm el Sheikh and near Hurghada, on the West Bank at Luxor, then at Abu Simbel they were very numerous with more than 50 seen. The silver legs and ochre undersides to the feet look quite pale in flight, and this seems to be a consistent field character. Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus: These appeared when we dropped down to the Dead Sea lowlands, and we found more than 50 along the way. STURNIDAE Tristram s Starling Onychognathus tristramii: These Arabian specialities were very common around the villages between Petra and Wadi Dana, perching in flocks on the houses and telephone wires. We saw a few more as we dropped off the plateau towards to the Dead Sea. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Common throughout and seen daily, the race involved is niloticus, although this changes to rufidorsalis at Abu Simbel. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis: Mainly a winter visitor to Egypt, we saw a roadside flocks near Bilbeis, and then a single was seen at Ash Showbak in Jordan. Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia: A flock of 35 at the roadside near Wadi Dana kept us entertained for a while. FRINGILLIDAE Red Avadavat Amandava amandava: Some great views of four near Bilbeis that seemed to be carrying nest material. Introduced to Egypt, native to South Asia. Syrian Serin Serinus syriacus: A nice surprise to bump into five of these on wires at Ash Showbak. Also, a single was seen in the Wadi Dana orchards the following day. This bright little bird has a world range restricted to Jordan, Israel, Syria and Lebanon. European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris: Six or more were seen at Petra, with another three seen at Wadi Dana. Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina: A couple of flocks seen in the Jordanian highlands, one of which was mixed up with the Rock Sparrows. Desert Finch Rhodospiza obsoleta: A surprise thrill to find a flock of 15+ of these by the roadside in the desert near Amman, showing their pink wings to nice effect. Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus: Another nice surprise to see these at the Valley of the Queens, it being many years since I have seen them in this area. It was also nice that the three birds seen were so tame, hopping around under the benches inside a shelter! 15 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

16 Sinai Rosefinch Carpodacus synoicus: At Petra we found a group of demure females in the early morning, feeding calmly in low vegetation. Another three birds were seen at Little Petra, however no pink ones were found! EMBERIZIDAE Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana: A male was seen at Wadi Dana, in good plumage except for most of its tail being missing! MAMMALS Bat sp: The only mammals recorded on the tour were some medium-sized Bats seen at Crocodile Island, and also at Abu Simbel. REPTILES Egyptian Cobra Naja haje: A fine beast reared up at us before taking avoiding action, by the Fish Factory in Abu Simbel. 16 Birdquest: Egypt 2010

17 Birdquest Egypt & Jordan tour October 2010 Clamorous Reed Warbler Black-crowned Night Heron Greater Painted Snipe Pied Kingfisher Senegal Thick-knee Squacco Heron

18 Temminck s Stint Pale Crag Martin Blackstart Eastern Black-eared Wheatear Syrian Serin Desert Lark

19 Lesser Kestrel Crowned Sandgrouse Spotted Sandgrouse White-eyed Gull Spur-winged Lapwing White-tailed Lapwing

20 Egyptian Nightjar Egyptian Nightjar Egyptian Nightjar Desert Wheatear Greater Hoopoe Lark Greater Hoopoe Lark

21 Isabelline Wheatear Petra Little Petra Giza Karnak Temple